Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 336m a.s.l

what's goin'on 7a © jolly

Crag features

A magnificent group of crags offering the visitor a great variety of climbing in all grades. Wall climbing, jamming cracks sport routes, lunatic fringe routes, and even some aid can all be had here.

Approach notes

Proceed along the Eglwyseg Valley road, as for World's End Crag, until a turning, signposted 'Panorama', appears on your right. Follow the roadaround to your left, and after about 600m you will come to a large layby on the right near a track, where you park. Walk down the road to the gate and follow the drive up to where it crosses a river bed. From this poind you can see the North Buttress high on the left skyline, the South Buttress directly in front, and towering above on the right, Monks Buttress.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
All area's updated and climbs now in order.
Luke Owens - 25/Jul/12
Seems a pretty good crag with plenty of variety. The Soho area is rather pleasant, further along things get more dramatic and the path probably warrants an E-grade...
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Bit loose on North wall its like being under fire their is that much rock coming down from your partner
ashaw - 16/Aug/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Descent Area 
2UndercurrentE2 5c  
3Smouldering BoulderingE3 6a  
4Ye Old Cod PieceE3 5c  
5Sweet SatisfactionHS 4b 1
6FlightingHVS 5a  
7SayfariVD 4
8FingernailHVS 5a *1
9One CarlosE5 6b  
10FrancoHVS 5a  
 Sentinel Area 
12TweakE1 5b  
13Stoned RomanE1 5b  
14Et Tu Brutus6b+ *1
15Whilst Rome Burns7a *4
16A Stab In The Back7b * 
17U Got Me Bugged7a+ *1
18Bug Off7b * 
19Serengetti7a * 
20Lurking in the Long Grass7a+ **1
21Rays and Hail7b+ * 
22Ray of Hope6c+ * 
23BennettoHS 4b 4
24SentinelE2 5c **20
25The Cycle Path7b ** 
26Freeway MadnessE4 5c *2
27Highway HysteriaHVS 5a  
28Soft Shoulder6a * 
29BuffoonVS 4c  
30Hard Shoulder7b  
31Polytextured Finish6c+ 2
32Bold PolyVS 4b 10
33Sometimes Yes, Sometimes NoE3 6a * 
34A Dose of Barley Fever6c+ *1
35Slippery Caramel7a+ * 
36Just a Treat6a+  
37Nesting CrackHVS 5a  
38MonumentalHS 4b 3
 Kinberg Area 
40The Burger KingE3 6a * 
41KinbergVS 4c ***137
42Atlantic TravellerVS 4c **39
43OsteophyteE5 6a ** 
44Bone OrchardE3 5c *2
45Unknown FeelingsE2 5b **29
46A Spaceman in the WhitehouseE4 6a  
47Space AceE3 5c **2
48Mitsuki GrooveHVS 5a *25
49Non StopE1 5c *2
50Smokey BearE2 5b 1
51Physical Transaction7a  
52Freely Slapping Upwards7b  
53Out of the Fire, Into the Furnace7b  
54Prickly Heat7a **2
55Pictures of LivingE4 6a * 
56Mr WobblerE3 6a  
57Dying Tonight7a+ * 
58Slap and Tickle7a+ *2
59Wibbly Wobbly World6c *1
 Atmospheres Area 
61Funky Monkey Pie7c+ * 
62Killer Gorilla7a+ **3
63Killer Gorilla - Free
7c+ ** 
64Planet Claire7b *** 
65Atmospheres7a ***12
66Atmospheres - Free7c *** 
67Private Idaho7c ** 
68Generation of Swine7b+ ***1
69Brain Box7b+ ** 
70Aphrodizziness7a *2
71OxygenE3 6a **1
 Mental Transition Area 
73Eddie Waring Lives On6c+ *3
74Demolition ManE4 6b * 
75Mental TransitionE4 6b ***10
76Through the Grapevine7b **4
77What's Goin' On7a **18
78Mercy Mercy Me6b+ * 
79The Sinking, Shrinking, ShrimpE2 5c *4
80Spastic SpiderE2 5c *2
81Spastic Spider DirectE2 6a  
82Shy of Coconuts7a * 
83Candy7b *2
84Lickin' Lollipops7b *8
 King of Fools Area 
86CondessaHVS 5a  
87Friction FactorE2 6a *3
88Fraction Fictor7a  
89Hard FoughtE2 5b 1
90Last FandangoE1 5b *9
91Wafer WayVS 4c *14
92ShasavaanE1 5b  
93Foolish PrideE4 6b  
94King of FoolsE3 6a * 
95MainstayE3 6a *1
96Basket CaseE3 6a  
97Stress TestE4 6b  
98The Soft MachineE5 6b * 
99Vicious CirclesE5 6b  
 Bagpus Area 
101Ornamental Art Mark 2E5 6b  
102Origami TodayE4 6a  
103Poison LetterE3 5c * 
104BagpusE5 6a * 
105Baron GreenbackE6 6a 2
106Storm RiderE3 5c  
 Dangermouse Area 
108Centre LineVS 4c 8
109TrophyHS 4b 14
110Whispering WallE2 5b 1
111DangermouseE5 6b **2
112Baby Frogs with Dirty Little LipsE3 6a *3
113Just a TadE1 5b  
114Obelisks Fly HighHS 4a *62
116MegalithHS 4a 18
 Frigorific Area 
118TransientHVS 5a 12
119PugilistHS 4a 16
120ScaremongerHVS 4c 7
121LaxM 8
122Auto-De-FeS 4a 25
123FrigorificE1 5b 4
124CentrefoldHVS 5b *16
125CalefactionVS 4c 36
126ExostosisHVS 5a *22
127Heloma Durum6a+  
128SwellVS 4c 12
129BlisterHVS 4c 5
 The Quick Tick Wall 
131Minnie Minor6c  
132Happy SlapperE4 6a *1
133Sister MoonE3 5c *1
134Unknown CrackVS 4b 1
135Gilly FlowerHVS 5b *5
136Waffle or Crack (ers)E2 5c **1
137Toe BitterE2 5c  
138Flied LiceE1 5b 1
139Crypt TickHVS 5a *26
140Pig PenE3 6a  
141WinterhillE3 5c * 
142Old ChipattiE3 6a *1
143El CrapitanHVS 5a 1
144Pumpkin SeedE1 5b *3
145Lentil ManE1 5b *3
146FingerbobsHVS 5b *9
147Celery StickE1 5c * 
148Tindaloo Trots
E2 5c  
149Short TripVS 5a 1
150Lay Me BackHS 4b 7
 Two Tier Area 
152Splitting Finger CrackE2 5b *6
153Pinfold Left-HandVS 4b 7
154Pinfold Right-HandVS 4b 13
155Wooly RambleVS 4c 1
156The Moving FingerE3 6a 1
157Buster BloodvesselE3 6a * 
158Red Flag DayE3 6a **2
159Thin White LineE5 6a ** 
160Progressions of PowerE3 5c **18
161Progressions of Power 2nd Pitch VariantHVS 5b **4
162Gerald's DilemmaVS 4c *29
163Inglorious6c * 
164Glorious WobblegongE4 6b * 
165Overhanging CrackE1 5b **26
166Rock a LittleE2 6a *1
167Pocket RocketE4 6b  
168G.M.B.HE3 6a *3
169E.C.VVS 4c **94
 Solo in Soho Area 
171Eagle's Nest CrackHS 4b 17
172Dead or AliveVS 4b 16
173Alive Not DeadVS 4c 13
174Neon KnightsE2 5b 6
175Phallic TowerHVS 5a 14
176MarnieHVS 4c *31
177Life of Dubious VirtueE4 6b * 
178Y CornerHVS 5a *91
179Too Many WomenE2 5c 1
180Vacances VerticalesE2 5c **50
181Darling RoseE3 6b 3
182Foot Loose and Fancy FreeE1 5b 6
183MaranderE1 5a *58
184Russian RouletteE2 5b 3
185Solo in SohoE3 6a ***50
186AlchemyE3 6a  
187Devils AlternativeHVS 5a *69
188ToccataVS 5a **129
189Play to KillE2 5c  
190Banana SplitsE3 6a * 
191Shoot to ThrillE7 6b **7
192Midnight SpecialHVS 5b 8
 Monkshead Butress 
194Hunky Monk6c 2
195The After Eights7b+  
196People Give Me the Eyes7c ** 
197Yankee Doodle Dandy7b+ *2
198I Feel Like a Wog7b *2
199Too Monk to Funk7c * 
200Yo yo yo yoE3 6a  
201Golly Gee6b+ 6
202Golly Gosh6b+ 6
203Indian Summer6c  
204Golly Wog6c 3
205Swiss Drum RollE5 6b  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens