Dinbren Crags

Climbs 199 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Generally good to excellent rock, and the climbs include some of the best (and hardest) in the area.

Access notes
From the westbound A5 in Llangollen, turn right at the main traffic lights and cross the River Dee bridge toa T-jct. Turn right, and then immediately left to follow the road over the canal and turn left onto Dinbren Road. After another 1km Dinbren Crags come into view ahead. Turn right at the next T-jct, signposted 'Panorama', and carry on for about 100m, passing a cattle grid, to a possible parking on the left. Parking is possible for a couple of cars below the crag at a passing place and at a nearby grassy patch, but please be considerate. The approach path leads up from the bottom of the shallow valley through a cluster of trees.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BACK IN THE BLACK AREA  
2Hell HoleM 23
3Hello AreteHVS 4c  
4Hell's Own VariationVD 5
5Tongue PieHVS 4c  
6Hell's ChimneyD 19
7The Sound and the Fury8b *** 
8It's Yours7b+ * 
9Punishment of LuxuryE4 6b **1
10Elite Syncopations8a ***37
11Elite Deviation8a ** 
12Back in the Black7b+ ***13
13Bolt from the BlueE6 6c **2
14Line of FireE5 6a 18
15Train to HellE4 6a 4
16Statement of Ewes7c+ **1
17Cured7c **7
18Stiff and StickyE3 6a  
19Sticky Toffee6c+ *13
 FOG WALLS  
21Ring Piece7b 2
22Fine Feathered Fink7b+ *11
23Gwennan8a *11
24The FogE6 6b **2
25Misty VisionE6 6b *** 
26PROJECTProject  
27PROJECTProject  
28Extreme Ways7c ***22
29Dr. GonzoE3 6a *1
 COLD TURKEY AREA  
31Cubase7b+ *3
32Lullaby7b 13
33The Dinbren SanctionE4 6a 31
34Cold Turkey6c *89
35Old Hari Kiri6c+ 9
36Kamikaze CloneE4 6a 2
37Jaspers6c+ *14
38Cookie KingE4 6b *1
 CLIMB HIGH AREA  
40Flowers are for the Dead7c **35
41Counting Sheep8a+ **3
42Broken Flowers7c+ ** 
43Broken Dreams7b+ ***8
44Insomnia8b ***4
45When Saturday Comes7c **39
46I Punched Judy First7b+ ***76
47Technicolour Yawn7a+ ***156
48Walking with Barrence7b ***91
49In Search of Someone Silly7b **14
50Traction Trauma7a ***64
51Do Walls Have Ears7a+ **23
52Climb HighE4 6b ***77
53Dreadlocks7b **21
54AlisonE1 5b **109
55Gemma's WorldE2 5b 4
56Gemma's World DirectE4 6a 1
57Hot LipsE5 6a *1
58Out of Body Experience8a **14
59No Kneed8a+ ***3
60RhiannonE5 6a * 
 THE BANDITS AREA  
62Binary Finary8b  
63The Bandits7b+ ***63
64The Rivals7c+ *10
65El Zapatistas8b *** 
66The Orgasmatron7a *25
67El Rincon8a+ ***19
68Highway8a **12
69El LocoE5 6a **3
70Going LocoE6 6b * 
71Silent SpiritHVS 5a 11
72Con-Dem-Nation6c *53
73Resist and Exist6b 225
74Where's the Presidents Brain6b+ 124
75SwansongE2 6a 6
 ICE WALLS  
77YaleHVS 5a *43
78MelodyE4 6a **9
79Lucky, Be Damned7a *18
80So LuckyE4 6a 2
81Big Mouth Strikes AgainE4 6b *24
82A Different Kind of HypertensionE3 5c *17
83HyperdriveE3 6a **20
84Bolt the Blue Sky7b 9
85Showing Mystery Bruises7a+ *1
86Baby Crusher7b *22
87Dyperspace7c *28
88This Vision Thing7b *5
89Fat Boys7a+ **69
90The Planet7b+ 3
91Fire7b **81
92Ice7b **63
93Blinking Lights7c **1
94Hot Stuff7a 112
95Silly Games7a+ 10
96AmadeusHVS 4c 4
97Ice on the MotorwayE5 6a  
 LOWER LEFT WING  
99TuberHVS 5a 3
100Solar PowerE1 5b 1
101Battery PowerHS 3
102Ash CrackHS 9
103Paper SmileHVS 5a 5
104The Thin WallE3 6a *5
105Magenta SunriseE4 6b *1
106Goblin GirlsHVS 5a *16
107Laughing GnomeVS 4b 15
108Yew Tree WallVS 4c 14
109Rock ThiefVS 5a  
110TangramE1 5b 1
111May DayHS 10
112Willy Waits for No ManHVS 5a 9
113Stein LineVS 4c 12
114Birds CryVS 4b  
115Pulling Up The DaisiesE3 6a 1
116Fanny MagnetE1 5a 2
117Shepherd's DelightVS 4c 2
118In the Shadow of Easter IslandVD 1
119It Needs Crack CoatingVD 1
120Si's Escape From DinbrenVD 1
121Gargoyle LoverHVS 4c 1
122Groovy CrackHVS 5a *1
123Groovy DirectHVS 5a *1
124Flaky PastryHVS 4c *1
125Hujamideen SunshineS 1
126Mujahideen MoonshineHS 4a 1
 DYNAH WALLS  
128SoapVD 11
129SPCVS 4c 15
130Humble HogE1 5c 1
131Dynah Moe HumE4 6b * 
132Out With the NewE3 6b  
133The Homecoming7a 2
134Waiting for Bayley6c+ 17
135Inaugural Goose Flesh6c+ 46
136Just Another Route Name6c *97
137Heinous Undercling7a+ 7
138Just Another Undercling6c 5
139SarcophagusE2 5b 1
140The VarletHVS 5a 4
141Backs to the Wall7a+ 10
142Deadly NightshadeE2 5b  
143Trailer Trash6b **58
144Driller Thriller6b+ 57
 HARMONY WALLS  
146Old ScoresE4 6a *1
147Pep TalkHVS 4c 9
148The Royal ArchE3 6a **29
149Blue NineE4 6b *1
150Waltz in BlackE4 6b ***5
151A World in HarmonyE2 5b ***97
152Caught in the CrossfireE4 6a *2
153Death on My TongueE3 5c 2
154ShadowplayE2 5c 4
155Let it RipVD 17
156Return of the GodsE3 5c *9
 DESCENT AREA  
158Synapse CollapseE3 5c *3
159In the Heat of the DayE4 6b  
160The Wasp Factory7b+ *6
161Big YouthHVS 5a *37
162Thanks to Ellis BrighamE3 6a *2
163Lecherous PigE3 6a *1
164Summer SolsticeE1 5b 3
165German for Art HistoriansE1 5b *15
166Sugar HiccupE3 5c 2
167Five O'Clock ShaddowVS 4c 30
168Arm WormsE4 6a  
169Quick Flash7a *30
170Loosing GraspE2 5b  
171Wonderwall7a **7
172Wood TreatmentE3 5c  
 COMBAT ZONE AREA  
174Nit NurseE1 5b *24
175The PhoenixS 4a 17
176AstrolaVS 4b *40
177The ScuttersE2 5b 2
178The StukasE4 6a  
179Fighting Spirit7a *11
180Combat ZoneE3 5c **42
181Evil WomanE3 5c *1
182Mustang Sally7b 3
183Ripping YarnsE2 6a 4
 HYDROGEN AREA  
185Filth FazeVS 4c 6
186Grooved AreteE1 5c 7
187Sally in PinkVS 4c *73
188Crimson DynamoE2 5c 6
189Colour GamesE1 5b *56
190Raging StormE3 5c **24
191HydrogenE3 5c **12
192Ellabella6c **4
193The Devil's AdvocateE3 5c *3
194Tower of BabelVS 5a 24
195Babel FaceHVS 5a 6
196AntillaS 4a 7
197Babbling AreteS 4a 27
 BUCCINATOR AREA  
199Babbling TowerVD 18
200Babble on is BurningE4 6b  
201Electra GlideE4 5c  
202Dawn of DesireE3 5b 2
203Shaken Not StirredHS 51
204ChabrisVS 4c 19
205BuccinatorE3 5c *13
206Cheeky PieE3 5b  
207Gentle ViloenceE3 5c  
208Violent RatcliffeE4 6a 2
209CastellaVD 19
210HamletHS 4b 13
211First GracesHS 4b 12
 RIGHT WING MIDDLE TIER  
213Pick Pocket7b **1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Having not done much British Sport my first impression of the crag was somewhat negative, but as I become accustomed to the style of climbing my enjoyment grows each visit. Quality climbing with intricate and almost infinite solutions. This crag has defiantly sparked my need to clip more bolts in the UK.
mux - 02/Jun/10
Look at the stars on the routes I think a bit of care needs to be taken not to oversell the area. Lots of routes deserve 1 or 2 stars but only the best warrent 3 stars (Climb High for example). In my opinion the quality of Clwyd sport climbing is closer to the peak district (say cheedale) than the best areas of Malham and Kilnsey. This isn't meant to be negative - I've really enjoyed the routes at Dinbren, the climbing is good and the setting and outlook excellent.
Ian Patterson - 15/Mar/05