Dinbren Crags

Climbs 201 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features

Generally good to excellent rock, and the climbs include some of the best (and hardest) in the area.

Approach notes

From the westbound A5 in Llangollen, turn right at the main traffic lights and cross the River Dee bridge toa T-jct. Turn right, and then immediately left to follow the road over the canal and turn left onto Dinbren Road. After another 1km Dinbren Crags come into view ahead. Turn right at the next T-jct, signposted 'Panorama', and carry on for about 100m, passing a cattle grid, to a possible parking on the left. Parking is possible for a couple of cars below the crag at a passing place and at a nearby grassy patch, but please be considerate. The approach path leads up from the bottom of the shallow valley through a cluster of trees.

Access notes

Ravens occasionally nest above the route Silent Spirit. If the birds are present then please avoid this route and avoid hanging around beneath this part of the crag any longer than is neccessary. The birds should have fledged by April 30th.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BACK IN THE BLACK AREA  
2Hell HoleM 23
3Hello AreteHVS 4c  
4Hell's Own VariationVD 5
5Tongue PieHVS 4c  
6Hell's ChimneyD 19
7The Sound and the Fury8b *** 
8It's Yours7b+ * 
9Punishment of LuxuryE4 6b **1
10Elite Syncopations8a ***37
11Elite Deviation8a ** 
12Back in the Black7b+ ***13
13Bolt from the BlueE6 6c **2
14Line of FireE5 6a 18
15Train to HellE4 6a 4
16Statement of Ewes7c+ **1
17Cured7c **8
18Stiff and StickyE3 6a  
19Sticky Toffee6c+ *13
 FOG WALLS  
21Ring Piece7b 2
22Fine Feathered Fink7b+ *11
23Gwennan8a *11
24The FogE6 6b **2
25Misty VisionE6 6b *** 
26PROJECTProject  
27PROJECTProject  
28Leftism8b+ **1
29Extreme Ways7c ***24
30Dr. GonzoE3 6a *1
 COLD TURKEY AREA  
32Cubase7b+ *3
33Lullaby7b 13
34The Dinbren SanctionE4 6a 31
35Cold Turkey6c *89
36Old Hari Kiri6c+ 9
37Kamikaze CloneE4 6a 2
38Jaspers6c+ *14
39Cookie KingE4 6b *1
 CLIMB HIGH AREA  
41Flowers are for the Dead7c **35
42Counting Sheep8a+ **3
43Broken Flowers7c+ ** 
44Broken Dreams7b+ ***8
45Insomnia8b ***4
46When Saturday Comes7c **39
47I Punched Judy First7b+ ***81
48Technicolour Yawn7a+ ***160
49Walking with Barrence7b ***94
50In Search of Someone Silly7b **14
51Traction Trauma7a ***72
52Do Walls Have Ears7a+ **29
53Climb HighE4 6b ***80
54Dreadlocks7b **22
55AlisonE1 5b **110
56Gemma's WorldE2 5b 4
57Gemma's World DirectE4 6a 2
58Hot LipsE5 6a *1
59Out of Body Experience8a **14
60No Kneed8a+ ***3
61RhiannonE5 6a * 
 THE BANDITS AREA  
63Binary Finary8b  
64The Bandits7b+ ***68
65The Rivals7c+ *12
66El Zapatistas8b *** 
67The Orgasmatron7a *24
68El Rincon8a+ ***20
69Highway8a **15
70El LocoE5 6a **3
71Going LocoE6 6b * 
72Silent SpiritHVS 5a 11
73Con-Dem-Nation6c *53
74Resist and Exist6b 231
75Where's the Presidents Brain6b+ 128
76SwansongE2 6a 6
 ICE WALLS  
78YaleHVS 5a *43
79MelodyE4 6a **9
80Lucky, Be Damned7a *18
81So LuckyE4 6a 2
82Big Mouth Strikes AgainE4 6b *24
83A Different Kind of HypertensionE3 5c *17
84HyperdriveE3 6a **21
85Bolt the Blue Sky7b 9
86Showing Mystery Bruises7a+ *1
87Baby Crusher7b *23
88Dyperspace7c *28
89This Vision Thing7b *5
90Fat Boys7a+ **69
91The Planet7b+ 3
92Fire7b **82
93Ice7b **63
94Blinking Lights7c **1
95Hot Stuff7a 116
96Silly Games7a+ 10
97The Solar System7a *2
98AmadeusHVS 4c 4
99Ice on the MotorwayE5 6a  
 LOWER LEFT WING  
101TuberHVS 5a 3
102Solar PowerE1 5b 1
103Battery PowerHS 3
104Ash CrackHS 9
105Paper SmileHVS 5a 5
106The Thin WallE3 6a *5
107Magenta SunriseE4 6b *1
108Goblin GirlsHVS 5a *16
109Laughing GnomeVS 4b 15
110Yew Tree WallVS 4c 14
111Rock ThiefVS 5a  
112TangramE1 5b 1
113May DayHS 10
114Willy Waits for No ManHVS 5a 9
115Stein LineVS 4c 12
116Birds CryVS 4b  
117Pulling Up The DaisiesE3 6a 1
118Fanny MagnetE1 5a 2
119Shepherd's DelightVS 4c 2
120In the Shadow of Easter IslandVD 1
121It Needs Crack CoatingVD 1
122Si's Escape From DinbrenVD 1
123Gargoyle LoverHVS 4c 1
124Groovy CrackHVS 5a *1
125Groovy DirectHVS 5a *1
126Flaky PastryHVS 4c *1
127Hujamideen SunshineS 1
128Mujahideen MoonshineHS 4a 1
 DYNAH WALLS  
130SoapVD 11
131SPCVS 4c 15
132Humble HogE1 5c 1
133Dynah Moe HumE4 6b * 
134Out With the NewE3 6b  
135The Homecoming7a 2
136Waiting for Bayley6c+ 17
137Inaugural Goose Flesh6c+ 46
138Just Another Route Name6c *97
139Heinous Undercling7a+ 7
140Just Another Undercling6c 5
141SarcophagusE2 5b 1
142The VarletHVS 5a 4
143Backs to the Wall7a+ 10
144Deadly NightshadeE2 5b  
145Trailer Trash6b **60
146Driller Thriller6b+ 57
 HARMONY WALLS  
148Old ScoresE4 6a *1
149Pep TalkHVS 4c 10
150The Royal ArchE3 6a **29
151Blue NineE4 6b *1
152Waltz in BlackE4 6b ***5
153A World in HarmonyE2 5b ***98
154Caught in the CrossfireE4 6a *2
155Death on My TongueE3 5c 2
156ShadowplayE2 5c 4
157Let it RipVD 17
158Return of the GodsE3 5c *9
 DESCENT AREA  
160Synapse CollapseE3 5c *3
161In the Heat of the DayE4 6b  
162The Wasp Factory7b+ *6
163Big YouthHVS 5a *38
164Thanks to Ellis BrighamE3 6a *2
165Lecherous PigE3 6a *1
166Summer SolsticeE1 5b 3
167German for Art HistoriansE1 5b *15
168Sugar HiccupE3 5c 2
169Five O'Clock ShaddowVS 4c 31
170Arm WormsE4 6a  
171Quick Flash7a *30
172Loosing GraspE2 5b  
173Wonderwall7a **7
174Wood TreatmentE3 5c 1
 COMBAT ZONE AREA  
176Nit NurseE1 5b *24
177The PhoenixS 4a 17
178AstrolaVS 4b *40
179The ScuttersE2 5b 3
180The StukasE4 6a  
181Fighting Spirit7a *13
182Combat ZoneE3 5c **43
183Evil WomanE3 5c *1
184Mustang Sally7b 3
185Ripping YarnsE2 6a 4
 HYDROGEN AREA  
187Filth FazeVS 4c 6
188Grooved AreteE1 5c 8
189Sally in PinkVS 4c *76
190Crimson DynamoE2 5c 6
191Colour GamesE1 5b *57
192Raging StormE3 5c **25
193HydrogenE3 5c **12
194Ellabella6c **4
195The Devil's AdvocateE3 5c *3
196Tower of BabelVS 5a 24
197Babel FaceHVS 5a 6
198AntillaS 4a 8
199Babbling AreteS 4a 27
 BUCCINATOR AREA  
201Babbling TowerVD 18
202Babble on is BurningE4 6b  
203Electra GlideE4 5c  
204Dawn of DesireE3 5b 2
205Shaken Not StirredHS 52
206ChabrisVS 4c 19
207BuccinatorE3 5c *14
208Cheeky PieE3 5b  
209Gentle ViloenceE3 5c  
210Violent RatcliffeE4 6a 2
211CastellaVD 19
212HamletHS 4b 13
213First GracesHS 4b 12
 RIGHT WING MIDDLE TIER  
215Pick Pocket7b **1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Having not done much British Sport my first impression of the crag was somewhat negative, but as I become accustomed to the style of climbing my enjoyment grows each visit. Quality climbing with intricate and almost infinite solutions. This crag has defiantly sparked my need to clip more bolts in the UK.
mux - 02/Jun/10
Look at the stars on the routes I think a bit of care needs to be taken not to oversell the area. Lots of routes deserve 1 or 2 stars but only the best warrent 3 stars (Climb High for example). In my opinion the quality of Clwyd sport climbing is closer to the peak district (say cheedale) than the best areas of Malham and Kilnsey. This isn't meant to be negative - I've really enjoyed the routes at Dinbren, the climbing is good and the setting and outlook excellent.
Ian Patterson - 15/Mar/05