Trevor Rocks Area

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Access notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE WINGS / DM WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS) 
2Co ed in the Coed5a
3Maevanwy6a
4Ogre in the Ogof5a
5Scratching the Surface5a
6Sgrech yr Hebog5c *
7Raptor Rap4a
8Merlin Magic4a
9Cwm buy a thrill5c
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4a *
11The Last Llath5a
12The Full Nine Llaths5a
13Dim Parcio4a *
14Welsh Fargo5a *
15Slow Araf Slow6a
 OVER YR WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS) 
17Cwm over Yr4a
18Yr Yr Yr6a
19A rare bit of welsh5c
20Dai Laughing5a
21Bath in the Taff6a
22The Valley's Initiative5c
23Cwm all ye Faithful5a
24Cwms the Farmer6b+
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+
26Do or Dai6b
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5a *
28Free Wales4a
29The Welsh Wizard5a
30A Dim View of Things6a
31Canal Canol6a *
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5a
33Christmas Goes Crackers5c
34Adrafelin What5a
 FUDD WALL (NESTING RESTRICTIONS) 
36Fudd For Thought5a
37Fuddily EnoughVS
38All Fudd Up6a
39Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *
40Fudd Off6b *
41Elmer J. FuddVS 4b
42The Fuddites6b *
43Betty Boo Rides AgainVS 4c
44Chocolate Fudd6a+
 DOG WALL 
46If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c
47Hot Dog4a *
48Dogmatic6a *
49Deputy Dog4c
50Dogs of War6a+ *
51K95a
 FURRY WALL 
53Crocs5c
54Crocs Face Climb6a+
55Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a
56Snakes in the Grass6b
57No Reptiles6a *
58Super Furry Frogs6a+ *
59Horny Toad6c
60Hornier Toad6b
61Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *
 COMPACT WALL 
63Thorn in My SideVS 4b
64Iron CurtainE2 5c
65Bordering on Desire6a+ **
66Borderline6a+ **
67Margin of Error6c **
68Traction Control6c ***
69Checkpoint Charlie6b *
70Lost Control6b *
71Over the Wall6a+ *
72Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *
73The Great Escape6a+ *
74I Met a Man from Mars6a+ *
75Boreholderline6a
76Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b
77Try to Understand, Understand?6a+
78April FoolVS 4b
79Left Handed FoolVS 4b
80Catch the Pigeon4c
81Prof Pat Pending6a+ *
82Ant Hill Mob5a
 IMPACT WALL 
84Full Impact6c
85Opening Impact6b
86Impaction6a
87Sudden Impact5a *
88Impact Imminent6b *
89No Evasion5a
 RAILWAY BUTTRESS & SURROUNDING AREA 
91Yummy Brummy3+
92Dimmock CrackHVD
93James the Red EngineS 3c
94The Fat ControllerS 4a *
95The Boiler HouseS
96Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *
97Ivor the EngineHS 4b
98Puffing BillyHS 4b *
99The Thin ControllerVS 4a
100Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5a
 SUSPECT WALL 
102Prime Suspect4a
103Innocence5c *
104Crime Scene6b *
105Suspectus6a
106Suspect Device6c *
107Suspect Criminal6b *
108Under Suspicion6b *
109SND4a *
110Cluedo5c *
111Forensic Science5a
112Forever the Suspect6a+ *
113Haven't got a Clue6a *
114Proven Guilty5a
115Plea for Leniency6a
116No Remittal6a
117Dissapearing Act5a *
118Clue, So?4c *
119Amateur Sleuth5c
120Who's Sam4a
121Sam's the Man6b
122A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+
123Sam Sam the Pan Man6b
124Sam Sam Alert6a+
 TREVOR MAIN QUARRY 
126QuicksilverS 4a
127Big PhlashVS 4a *
128Long John SilverVS 4b *
129Blue FlashVS 4b *
130Gold PhlashVS 4b *
131Big SplatHVS 4c *
132My RouteVS 4b **
133DinoVS 4b *
134The Silver LineHVS 4c *
135Line BashingVS 4b
136Any Which Way You CanE2 5b
137Planet HeadE3 5c
138Any Which WayE2 5b ***
139Mud Slide Slim6c *
140This Way to Clitheroe6c **
141Clevor Trevor6c **
142The Last StrawE3 5c *
143Trabucco6c *
144White SmearE4 5c *
145AmyE3 5c
146LingenVS 4b
147FlingVS 4b
148All Over LancashireE3 5c
149Flingen *VS 4b
150Unnamed route? *VS 4a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06