Trevor Rocks Area

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Access notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE WINGS / DM WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
2Co ed in the Coed5a 74
3Maevanwy6a 79
4Ogre in the Ogof5a 66
5Scratching the Surface5a 71
6Sgrech yr Hebog5c *76
7Raptor Rap4a 43
8Merlin Magic4a 49
9Cwm buy a thrill5c 43
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4a *13
11The Last Llath5a 33
12The Full Nine Llaths5a 35
13Dim Parcio4a *43
14Welsh Fargo5a *36
15Slow Araf Slow6a 33
 OVER YR WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
17Cwm over Yr4a 21
18Yr Yr Yr6a 15
19A rare bit of welsh5c 19
20Dai Laughing5a 15
21Bath in the Taff6a 12
22The Valley's Initiative5c 14
23Cwm all ye Faithful5a 4
24Cwms the Farmer6b+ 5
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+ 9
26Do or Dai6b 3
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5a *10
28Free Wales4a 25
29The Welsh Wizard5a 27
30A Dim View of Things6a 5
31Canal Canol6a *11
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5a 34
33Christmas Goes Crackers5c 42
34Adrafelin What5a 42
 FUDD WALL (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
36Fudd For Thought5a 37
37Fuddily EnoughVS 2
38All Fudd Up6a 112
39Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *55
40Fudd Off6b *80
41Elmer J. FuddVS 4b 56
42The Fuddites6b *49
43Betty Boo Rides AgainVS 4c 16
44Chocolate Fudd6a+ 59
 DOG WALL  
46If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c 22
47Hot Dog4a *228
48Dogmatic6a *32
49Deputy Dog4c 128
50Dogs of War6a+ *71
51K95a 110
 FURRY WALL  
53Crocs5c 30
54Crocs Face Climb6a+ 6
55Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a  
56Snakes in the Grass6b 45
57No Reptiles6a *133
58Super Furry Frogs6a+ *59
59Horny Toad6c 30
60Hornier Toad6b 34
61Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *151
 COMPACT WALL  
63Thorn in My SideVS 4b 9
64Iron CurtainE2 5c 9
65Bordering on Desire6a+ **8
66Borderline6a+ **307
67Margin of Error6c **143
68Traction Control6c ***157
69Checkpoint Charlie6b *153
70Lost Control6b *122
71Over the Wall6a+ *171
72Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *43
73The Great Escape6a+ *124
74I Met a Man from Mars6a+ 118
75Boreholderline6a 79
76Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 8
77Try to Understand, Understand?6a+ 8
78April FoolVS 4b 11
79Left Handed FoolVS 4b 4
80Catch the Pigeon4c 71
81Prof Pat Pending6a+ *21
82Ant Hill Mob5a 43
 IMPACT WALL  
84Full Impact6c 42
85Opening Impact6b 23
86Impaction5a 84
87Sudden Impact4a *214
88Impact Imminent6b *56
89No Evasion5a 81
 RAILWAY BUTTRESS & SURROUNDING AREA  
91Yummy Brummy3+ 27
92Dimmock CrackHVD 6
93James the Red EngineS 3c 121
94The Fat ControllerS 4a *126
95The Boiler HouseS 27
96Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *159
97Ivor the EngineHS 4b 108
98Puffing BillyHS 4b *128
99The Thin ControllerVS 4a 58
100Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5a 4
 SUSPECT WALL  
102Prime Suspect4a 501
103Innocence5a *440
104Crime Scene6b *204
105Suspectus6a 193
106Suspect Device6c *120
107Suspect Criminal6b *163
108Under Suspicion6b *187
109SND4a *122
110Cluedo5c *401
111Forensic Science5a 471
112Forever the Suspect6a+ *298
113Haven't got a Clue6a *447
114Proven Guilty5a 370
115Plea for Leniency6a 138
116No Remittal6a 229
117Dissapearing Act5a *168
118Clue, So?4a *632
119Amateur Sleuth5c 235
120Who's Sam4a 324
121Sam's the Man6b 28
122A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 14
123Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 4
124Sam Sam Alert6a+ 12
 TREVOR MAIN QUARRY  
126QuicksilverS 4a 36
127Big PhlashVS 4a *89
128Long John SilverVS 4b *52
129Blue FlashVS 4b *74
130Gold PhlashVS 4b *78
131Big SplatHVS 4c *55
132My RouteVS 4b **11
133DinoVS 4b *76
134The Silver LineHVS 4c *82
135Line BashingVS 4b 9
136Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 15
137Planet HeadE3 5c 2
138Any Which WayE2 5b ***90
139Mud Slide SlimE4 6a *18
140This Way to ClitheroeE4 6a **52
141Clevor TrevorE4 6a **28
142The Last StrawE3 5c *14
143TrabuccoE4 6b *36
144White SmearE4 5c *14
145AmyE3 5c 2
146LingenVS 4b 75
147FlingVS 4b 64
148All Over LancashireE3 5c 2
149Unnamed route? *VS 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06