Trevor Rocks Area

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Access notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE WINGS / DM WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
2Co ed in the Coed5a 72
3Maevanwy6a 75
4Ogre in the Ogof5a 63
5Scratching the Surface5a 68
6Sgrech yr Hebog5c *72
7Raptor Rap4a 40
8Merlin Magic4a 47
9Cwm buy a thrill5c 42
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4a *13
11The Last Llath5a 33
12The Full Nine Llaths5a 35
13Dim Parcio4a *40
14Welsh Fargo5a *34
15Slow Araf Slow6a 31
 OVER YR WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
17Cwm over Yr4a 20
18Yr Yr Yr6a 14
19A rare bit of welsh5c 19
20Dai Laughing5a 14
21Bath in the Taff6a 12
22The Valley's Initiative5c 14
23Cwm all ye Faithful5a 4
24Cwms the Farmer6b+ 5
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+ 9
26Do or Dai6b 3
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5a *10
28Free Wales4a 24
29The Welsh Wizard5a 26
30A Dim View of Things6a 5
31Canal Canol6a *11
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5a 34
33Christmas Goes Crackers5c 40
34Adrafelin What5a 40
 FUDD WALL (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
36Fudd For Thought5a 31
37Fuddily EnoughVS 2
38All Fudd Up6a 102
39Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *49
40Fudd Off6b *75
41Elmer J. FuddVS 4b 51
42The Fuddites6b *46
43Betty Boo Rides AgainVS 4c 13
44Chocolate Fudd6a+ 53
 DOG WALL  
46If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c 21
47Hot Dog4a *210
48Dogmatic6a *28
49Deputy Dog4c 120
50Dogs of War6a+ *70
51K95a 102
 FURRY WALL  
53Crocs5c 28
54Crocs Face Climb6a+ 5
55Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a  
56Snakes in the Grass6b 41
57No Reptiles6a *122
58Super Furry Frogs6a+ *52
59Horny Toad6c 27
60Hornier Toad6b 32
61Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *143
 COMPACT WALL  
63Thorn in My SideVS 4b 9
64Iron CurtainE2 5c 9
65Bordering on Desire6a+ **8
66Borderline6a+ **294
67Margin of Error6c **135
68Traction Control6c ***147
69Checkpoint Charlie6b *144
70Lost Control6b *112
71Over the Wall6a+ *160
72Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *41
73The Great Escape6a+ *119
74I Met a Man from Mars6a+ *114
75Boreholderline6a 74
76Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 8
77Try to Understand, Understand?6a+ 7
78April FoolVS 4b 11
79Left Handed FoolVS 4b 4
80Catch the Pigeon4c 68
81Prof Pat Pending6a+ *19
82Ant Hill Mob5a 38
 IMPACT WALL  
84Full Impact6c 39
85Opening Impact6b 23
86Impaction6a 81
87Sudden Impact5a *202
88Impact Imminent6b *55
89No Evasion5a 79
 RAILWAY BUTTRESS & SURROUNDING AREA  
91Yummy Brummy3+ 26
92Dimmock CrackHVD 6
93James the Red EngineS 3c 115
94The Fat ControllerS 4a *122
95The Boiler HouseS 26
96Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *151
97Ivor the EngineHS 4b 99
98Puffing BillyHS 4b *114
99The Thin ControllerVS 4a 55
100Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5a 4
 SUSPECT WALL  
102Prime Suspect4a 478
103Innocence5c *416
104Crime Scene6b *198
105Suspectus6a 182
106Suspect Device6c *113
107Suspect Criminal6b *157
108Under Suspicion6b *185
109SND4a *112
110Cluedo5c *389
111Forensic Science5a 452
112Forever the Suspect6a+ *287
113Haven't got a Clue6a *433
114Proven Guilty5a 353
115Plea for Leniency6a 129
116No Remittal6a 214
117Dissapearing Act5a *155
118Clue, So?4c *599
119Amateur Sleuth5c 226
120Who's Sam4a 306
121Sam's the Man6b 27
122A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 14
123Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 3
124Sam Sam Alert6a+ 12
 TREVOR MAIN QUARRY  
126QuicksilverS 4a 32
127Big PhlashVS 4a *87
128Long John SilverVS 4b *52
129Blue FlashVS 4b *72
130Gold PhlashVS 4b *76
131Big SplatHVS 4c *53
132My RouteVS 4b **11
133DinoVS 4b *69
134The Silver LineHVS 4c *81
135Line BashingVS 4b 9
136Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 15
137Planet HeadE3 5c 2
138Any Which WayE2 5b ***89
139Mud Slide Slim6c *18
140This Way to Clitheroe6c **52
141Clevor Trevor6c **28
142The Last StrawE3 5c *14
143Trabucco6c *36
144White SmearE4 5c *14
145AmyE3 5c 2
146LingenVS 4b 73
147FlingVS 4b 61
148All Over LancashireE3 5c 2
149Flingen *VS 4b 1
150Unnamed route? *VS 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/May/2009

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Liverpool, MERSEYSIDE
Dedicated centre.
"Ads say it's the North-west's largest climbing centre, with 16m+ and that it caters for "little angels to rock gods". Started March 99, includes 16.5m lead wall overhanging 8m,..."
awesomewalls.co.uk