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These details were last updated on 07/May/2009

Trevor Rocks Area

Clwyd, WALES

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
18 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
11 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
10 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
9 °C
11 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE WINGS / DM WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
2Co ed in the Coed5 62
3Maevanwy6a 67
4Ogre in the Ogof5 56
5Scratching the Surface5 59
6Sgrech yr Hebog5+ *63
7Raptor Rap4 33
8Merlin Magic4 42
9Cwm buy a thrill5+ 41
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4 *13
11The Last Llath5 32
12The Full Nine Llaths5 32
13Dim Parcio4 *35
14Welsh Fargo5 *30
15Slow Araf Slow6a 29
 OVER YR WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
17Cwm over Yr4 17
18Yr Yr Yr6a 11
19A rare bit of welsh5+ 18
20Dai Laughing5 13
21Bath in the Taff6a 11
22The Valley's Initiative5+ 12
23Cwm all ye Faithful2 2
24Cwms the Farmer6b+ 4
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+ 6
26Do or Dai6b 2
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5 *8
28Free Wales4 21
29The Welsh Wizard5 23
30A Dim View of Things6a 5
31Canal Canol6a *10
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5 30
33Christmas Goes Crackers5+ 37
34Adrafelin What5 38
 FUDD WALL (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
36Fudd For Thought5 29
37Fuddily EnoughVS 1
38All Fudd Up6a 92
39Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *43
40Fudd Off6b *63
41Elmer J. FuddVS 4b 46
42The Fuddites6b *42
43Betty Boo Rides AgainVS 4c 12
44Chocolate Fudd6a+ 49
 DOG WALL  
46If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c 22
47Hot Dog4 *195
48Dogmatic6a *26
49Deputy Dog4+ 105
50Dogs of War6a+ *65
51K95 91
 FURRY WALL  
53Crocs5+ 27
54Crocs Face Climb6a+ 5
55Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a  
56Snakes in the Grass6b 41
57No Reptiles6a *115
58Super Furry Frogs6a+ *47
59Horny Toad6c 26
60Hornier Toad6b 31
61Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *134
 COMPACT WALL  
63Thorn in My SideVS 4b 9
64Iron CurtainE2 5c 8
65Bordering on Desire6a+ **8
66Borderline6a+ **273
67Margin of Error6c **123
68Traction Control6c ***132
69Checkpoint Charlie6b *128
70Lost Control6b *102
71Over the Wall6a+ *150
72Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *35
73The Great Escape6a+ *111
74I Met a Man from Mars6a+ *105
75Boreholderline6a 66
 Climb nameGradex
76Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 8
77Try to Understand, Understand?6a+ 6
78April FoolVS 4b 9
79Left Handed FoolVS 4b 4
80Catch the Pigeon4+ 61
81Prof Pat Pending6a+ *18
82Ant Hill Mob5 36
 IMPACT WALL  
84Full Impact6c 34
85Opening Impact6b 20
86Impaction6a 74
87Sudden Impact5 *188
88Impact Imminent6b *48
89No Evasion5 70
 RAILWAY BUTTRESS & SURROUNDING AREA  
91Yummy Brummy3+ 20
92Dimmock CrackHVD 5
93James the Red EngineS 3c 103
94The Fat ControllerS 4a *110
95The Boiler HouseS 21
96Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *140
97Ivor the EngineHS 4b 92
98Puffing BillyHS 4b *100
99The Thin ControllerVS 4a 49
100Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5 4
 SUSPECT WALL  
102Prime Suspect4 452
103Innocence5+ *393
104Crime Scene6b *182
105Suspectus6a 170
106Suspect Device6c *103
107Suspect Criminal6b *144
108Under Suspicion6b *171
109SND4 *103
110Cluedo5+ *364
111Forensic Science5 429
112Forever the Suspect6a+ *274
113Haven't got a Clue6a *396
114Proven Guilty5 330
115Plea for Leniency6a 119
116No Remittal6a 200
117Dissapearing Act5 *141
118Clue, So?4+ *567
119Amateur Sleuth5+ 210
120Who's Sam4 282
121Sam's the Man6b 26
122A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 13
123Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 3
124Sam Sam Alert6a+ 11
 TREVOR MAIN QUARRY  
126QuicksilverS 4a 31
127Big PhlashVS 4a *79
128Long John SilverVS 4b *46
129Blue FlashVS 4b *70
130Gold PhlashVS 4b *73
131Big SplatHVS 4c *52
132My RouteVS 4b **11
133DinoVS 4b *64
134The Silver LineHVS 4c *73
135Line BashingVS 4b 9
136Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 14
137Planet HeadE3 5c 2
138Any Which WayE2 5b ***77
139Mud Slide Slim6c *17
140This Way to Clitheroe6c **49
141Clevor Trevor6c **27
142The Last StrawE3 5c *14
143Trabucco6c *33
144White SmearE4 5c *14
145AmyE3 5c 2
146LingenVS 4b 66
147FlingVS 4b 58
148All Over LancashireE3 5c 2
149Flingen *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13

Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13

Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12

Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12

Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10

Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss - 03/Mar/10

Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06

some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06