Trevor Rocks Area

Climbs 171 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

Approach notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Clwyd Limestone (2005), (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Co ed in the Coed5a 80
3Maevanwy6a 86
4Ogre in the Ogof5a 74
5Scratching the Surface5a 75
6Sgrech yr Hebog5c *83
7Raptor Rap4a 48
8Merlin Magic4a 54
9Cwm buy a thrill5c 44
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4a *13
11The Last Llath5a 33
12The Full Nine Llaths5a 35
13Dim Parcio4a *49
14Welsh Fargo5a *38
15Slow Araf Slow6a 34
17Cwm over Yr4a 22
18Yr Yr Yr6a 15
19A rare bit of welsh5c 19
20Dai Laughing5a 16
21Bath in the Taff6a 12
22The Valley's Initiative5c 14
23Cwm all ye Faithful5a 4
24Cwms the Farmer6b+ 5
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+ 9
26Do or Dai6b 3
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5a *10
28Free Wales4a 26
29The Welsh Wizard5a 27
30A Dim View of Things6a 5
31Canal Canol6a *11
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5a 39
33Christmas Gone Crackers5c 47
34Adrafelin What5a 46
35Road to NowhereVS 4b *2
37Fudd For Thought5a 39
38Fuddily EnoughVS 2
39All Fudd Up6a 114
40Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *55
41Fudd Off6b *83
42Elmer J. FuddVS 4b 56
43The Fuddites6b *51
44Betty Boo Rides AgainVS 4c 16
45Chocolate Fudd6a+ 61
47If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c 23
48Hot Dog4a *235
49Dogmatic6a *34
50Deputy Dog4c 130
51Dogs of War6a+ *71
52K95a 112
54Crocs5c 31
55Crocs Face Climb6a+ 7
56Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a  
57Snakes in the Grass6b 48
58No Reptiles6a *137
59Super Furry Frogs6a+ *62
60Horny Toad6c 31
61Hornier Toad6b 37
62Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *157
64Thorn in My SideVS 4b 9
65Iron CurtainE2 5c 9
66Bordering on Desire6a+ **9
67Borderline6a+ **319
68Margin of Error6c **147
69Traction Control6c ***165
70Checkpoint Charlie6b *163
71Lost Control6b *127
72Over the Wall6a+ *182
73Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *46
74The Great Escape6a+ *127
75I Met a Man from Mars6a+ 120
76Boreholderline6a 81
77Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 8
78Try to Understand, Understand?6a+ 8
79April FoolVS 4b 11
80Left Handed FoolVS 4b 4
81Catch the Pigeon4c 73
82Prof Pat Pending6a+ *23
83Ant Hill Mob5a 46
85Full Impact6c 42
86Opening Impact6b 23
87Impaction5a 85
88Sudden Impact4a *218
89Impact Imminent6b *61
90No Evasion5a 83
92Yummy Brummy3+ 29
93Dimmock CrackHVD 6
94James the Red EngineS 3c 123
95The Fat ControllerS 4a *130
96The Boiler HouseS 27
97Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *162
98Ivor the EngineHS 4b 111
99Puffing BillyHS 4b *131
100The Thin ControllerVS 4a 58
101Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5a 4
103Prime Suspect4a 518
104Innocence5a *458
105Crime Scene6b *213
106Suspectus6a 197
107Suspect Device6c *123
108Suspect Criminal6b *172
109Under Suspicion6b *191
110SND4a *130
111Cluedo5c *408
112Forensic Science5a 481
113Forever the Suspect6a+ *313
114Haven't got a Clue6a *458
115Proven Guilty5a 379
116Plea for Leniency6a 140
117No Remittal6a 229
118Dissapearing Act5a *172
119Clue, So?4a *655
120Amateur Sleuth5c 238
121Who's Sam4a 332
122Sam's the Man6b 28
123A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 14
124Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 4
125Sam Sam Alert6a+ 12
127QuicksilverS 4a 38
128Big PhlashVS 4a *91
129Long John SilverVS 4b *54
130Blue FlashVS 4b *76
131Gold PhlashVS 4b *79
132Big SplatHVS 4c *57
133My RouteVS 4b **11
134DinoVS 4b *77
135The Silver LineHVS 4c *82
136Line BashingVS 4b 9
137Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 15
138Planet HeadE3 5c 2
139Any Which WayE2 5b ***96
140Mud Slide SlimE4 6a *19
141This Way to ClitheroeE4 6a **53
142Clevor TrevorE4 6a **31
143The Last StrawE3 5c *15
144TrabuccoE4 6b *36
145White SmearE4 5c *14
146AmyE3 5c 2
147LingenVS 4b 77
148FlingVS 4b 65
149All Over LancashireE3 5c 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
PLEASE TAKE CARE!!!! Was climbing at the newly developed crags to the left of Fudd Wall (11/04/14). Lots of loose stones and large boulders ready to and did fall down. A good afternoons climbing was spent in Wrexham A&E.
peterpeter - 13/Jun/14
Beware: a fridge-sized block between the last bolt and the lower off on "Dim Parcio" (DM walls area) is loose.
another_alex - 22/Jul/13
Went climbing here last weekend and it seemed that nearly all the belay stakes mentioned in the guide book at the main quarry walls were missing. Was this us being blind or have they been removed? You can now only do the two bolted routes as there is no where to belay from at the top...
Jack93 - 28/Jun/13
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry - 09/Jul/12
Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss - 04/May/12
Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay - 27/Jun/10
Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site:
Joss - 03/Mar/10
Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06
some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06