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These details were last updated on 07/May/2009

Trevor Rocks Area

Clwyd, WALES

Climbs 170 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.

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Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Clwyd Rock (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE WINGS / DM WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
2Co ed in the Coed5 55
3Maevanwy6a 54
4Ogre in the Ogof5 49
5Scratching the Surface5 52
6Sgrech yr Hebog5+ *58
7Raptor Rap4 29
8Merlin Magic4 35
9Cwm buy a thrill5+ 38
10Cwm,cwm, and cwm again (Now removed)4 *13
11The Last Llath5 23
12The Full Nine Llaths5 23
13Dim Parcio4 *28
14Welsh Fargo5 *24
15Slow Araf Slow6a 25
 OVER YR WALLS (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
17Cwm over Yr4 16
18Yr Yr Yr6a 10
19A rare bit of welsh5+ 17
20Dai Laughing5 13
21Bath in the Taff6a 11
22The Valley's Initiative5+ 12
23Cwm all ye Faithful2 2
24Cwms the Farmer6b+ 4
25Help, Help me Rhondda6a+ 6
26Do or Dai6b 2
27Cwms the Snow, Man!5 *7
28Free Wales4 20
29The Welsh Wizard5 22
30A Dim View of Things6a 5
31Canal Canol6a *9
32Over Yr, On my Heddlu5 23
33Christmas Goes Crackers5+ 29
34Adrafelin What5 30
 FUDD WALL (NESTING RESTRICTIONS)  
36Fudd For Thought5 25
37Fuddily EnoughVS 1
38All Fudd Up6a 81
39Would I, Should I, Fudd I6c *38
40Fudd Off6b *54
41Elmer J. FuddVS 4b 45
42The Fuddites6b *38
43Betty Bop Rides AgainVS 4c 11
44Chocolate Fudd6a+ 37
 DOG WALL  
46If I had all the money I'd spent on drink, I'd spend it on drinkHVS 4c 21
47Hot Dog4 *179
48Dogmatic6a *22
49Deputy Dog4+ 90
50Dogs of War6a+ *55
51K95 77
 FURRY WALL  
53Crocs5+ 22
54Crocs Face Climb6a+ 3
55Alligator's CrawlHVS 5a  
56Snakes in the Grass6b 35
57No Reptiles6a *102
58Super Furry Frogs6a+ *43
59Horny Toad6c 26
60Hornier Toad6b 30
61Long-legged Lizard from Liverpool6a *122
 COMPACT WALL  
63Thorn in My SideVS 4b 9
64Iron CurtainE2 5c 8
65Bordering on Desire6a+ **6
66Borderline6a+ **252
67Margin of Error6c **109
68Traction Control6c ***122
69Checkpoint Charlie6b *116
70Lost Control6b *90
71Over the Wall6a+ *140
72Over the Wall with Checkpoint Charlie finish6a *30
73The Great Escape6a+ *104
74I Met a Man from Mars6a+ *96
75Boreholderline6a 60
76Pot Noodle, Don't Leave Home Without OneVS 4b 6
77Try to Understand, Understand?6a+ 7
78April FoolVS 4b 9
79Left Handed FoolVS 4b 3
80Catch the Pigeon4+ 53
81Prof Pat Pending6a+ *17
82Ant Hill Mob5 32
 IMPACT WALL  
84Full Impact6c 33
85Opening Impact6b 21
86Impaction6a 70
87Sudden Impact5 *176
88Impact Imminent6b *46
89No Evasion5 67
 RAILWAY BUTTRESS & SURROUNDING AREA  
 Climb nameGradex
91Yummy Brummy3+ 16
92Dimmock CrackHVD 4
93James the Red EngineS 3c 86
94The Fat ControllerS 4a *98
95The Boiler HouseS 18
96Thomas the Tank EngineS 4a *118
97Ivor the EngineHS 4b 77
98Puffing BillyHS 4b *90
99The Thin ControllerVS 4a 43
100Tims Filthy Finger (Now Removed)5 4
 SUSPECT WALL  
102Prime Suspect4 415
103Innocence5+ *365
104Crime Scene6b *167
105Suspectus6a 151
106Suspect Device6c *99
107Suspect Criminal6b *134
108Under Suspicion6b *157
109SND4 *98
110Cluedo5+ *341
111Forensic Science5 395
112Forever the Suspect6a+ *247
113Haven't got a Clue6a *364
114Proven Guilty5 304
115Plea for Leniency6a 113
116No Remittal6a 185
117Dissapearing Act5 *126
118Clue, So?4+ *523
119Amateur Sleuth5+ 198
120Who's Sam4 259
121Sam's the Man6b 27
122A Leaf Out Of Sam's Book6a+ 13
123Sam Sam the Pan Man6b 3
124Sam Sam Alert6a+ 11
 TREVOR MAIN QUARRY  
126QuicksilverS 4a 27
127Big PhlashVS 4a *70
128Long John SilverVS 4b *39
129Blue FlashVS 4b *59
130Gold PhlashVS 4b *63
131Big SplatHVS 4c *46
132My RouteVS 4b **9
133DinoVS 4b *56
134The Silver LineHVS 4c *69
135Line BashingVS 4b 8
136Any Which Way You CanE2 5b 12
137Planet HeadE3 5c 2
138Any Which WayE2 5b ***65
139Mud Slide Slim6c *15
140This Way to Clitheroe6c **39
141Clevor Trevor6c **22
142The Last StrawE3 5c *14
143Trabucco6c *27
144White SmearE4 5c *13
145AmyE3 5c 2
146LingenVS 4b 59
147FlingVS 4b 50
148All Over LancashireE3 5c 2
149Matthew *VB 3
150Mark *VB 4a 2
151Luke *VB 4a 2
152John *VB 4a 2
153Paul *VB 4a 2
154Thomas *VB 4b 2
155James *VB 4a 2
156David *VB 4b 2
157Peter *VB 2
158Stephen *VB 4a 2
159Francis *VB 4b 2
160Andrew *VB 2
161Michael *V0- 4b 2
162White Wall *VB 4a 6
163Diagonal Undercut *VB 4b 1
164Ledge Route *VB 1
165Inset *VB 1
166High Arch *VB 2
167Short Pull *VB 2
168White Sports *VB 4b 1
169Depression *VB 4a 1
170Low Bulge Left *VB 2
171Low Bulge Mid *VB 2
172Low Bulge Right *VB 4a 2
173Mid Line *VB 1
174Short Slot *VB 4a 1
175Low Traverse *VB 4a 1
176High Traverse *VB 4b 1
177Anticipation *V0- 4c 1
178Piggle in the Middle *V0- 4b *1
179The Bump *V0- 4a 1
180The Bulge *V0- 4a 3

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.

Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joss ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Did routes on the new lower offs for the first time this weekend and was rather worried by them: The bolts underneath are the same ones that have been 'replaced'. The trouble is many of these have over half of their material all ready worn away. Clue, So? and Who's Sam were particularly bad in this respect.
D Berry ? - 09/Jul/12

Very big than kyou to the people who renewed the lower offs, youve done us all a service! Well Done :-)
Joss ? - 04/May/12

Beware!! Crime Scene on Suspect walls has a dodgy lower off. One of the bolts had a loose nut. couldn't tighten it as didn't have the tools.
peetay ? - 27/Jun/10

Trevor is the ideal location for beginner to intermediate sport climbing. All newer route details can be found on the wiki site: http://trevorlimestone.wetpaint.com/
Joss ? - 03/Mar/10

Went to have a climb on Supsect Wall last weekend ( 7/5/06. Didn't have a guidebook so not entirely sure of the routes climbed, however, think they were Prime Suspect and Forensic Science. Found the bolts on the routes to be well thought out,in good quality rock and well positioned but the lower offs were very suspect. This being due to the nature of the rock they have been placed in. I would recommened that these lower off's are monitored very carefully and consider toping out and using the in-situ stakes.
Chris Wood - 14/May/06

some excellent low grade sport routes & some good 6a's for pushing your grade up.
G - 31/Mar/06