James Rushforth on "This way to Clitheroe" (E4 6a) at Trevor Quarry © James Rushforth
Ten limestone walls and buttresses consisting of mainly sport climbing, the best of which are at Compact Wall and the steep side of the large main quarry. There are some lower grade trad routes on Railway Buttress. All routes at the Trevor area are single pitch up to 17 metres.
Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. For Trevor Quarry, approach is made via the steep scree slope above the layby. For Compact Wall and Railway Buttress approach is made along the obvious incline for about 400m leading back up the valley and along a path at the foot of the quarries.
Note: further up the road from the layby there is a hairpin bend with a track leading to Trevor Quarry. Do not take vehicles up this route, since the farmer uses this area for sheep grazing.
An agreed climbing restriction due to nesting birds has been in place on the crags northwest (left) of, but not including, the Compact Wall. Recently this hasn't been enforced and it may be lifted completely in the future - check UKC or the BMC RAD for the most recent information.
The landowner below the left-hand (north) end of the crag is becoming increasingly concerned about group usage. Please be aware of this and keep noise and general disturbance down to a minimum.