Climbs 101
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ali contemplating the hard bit on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), Stennis Head, Pembroke © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place for beginners and experienced climbers alike, with its steady scramble-in approach, tempting spread of grades and terrific fused limestone - the only thing wrong with Stennis Head is the fact that it's on the wrong side of the dreaded red flag! The classics here include Hercules (HVS), Manzoku (E1) and the aspirational mega-route Pleasure Dome (E3 ) - quite possibly the best E3 in the land. Add to this the long, diagonal slash of Myola (HS), the hanging grooves of Stuntsman's Buttress, the Dream of White Horses-esque traverse of Riders on the Storm (HVS) and the outlying corner gem of Bludgeon (HVS), and you have a recipe that goes down well on just about every visit.

Approach notes

Tidal on a handful of routes below the main cliff.

Access Advice

No issues reported.

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Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Just looked in my 1986 guide FA list. I noted 'supersedes Topless Woman and Stennis Grey'.
jon - 27/May/14
Loundsy, re your comment on Topless Woman: > this route appears in the 1982 supplement, but is not in subsequent guides. It climbs the area to the right of Hercules, possibly taking similar ground to Flash. (I'm not sure this route exists? surely its not climbed often) Flash does indeed supersede Topless Woman. I was on my own at Stennis Head one day when Nipper H and Martin Crocker appeared. I'd not met Martin before and Nipper introduced him as: 'The Bristol hot-shot'. I said 'I thought that was you, Nipper'. He replied 'So did I!' Anyway, Nipper made short work of Flash, a route that quite a few folk had tried, and Martin and I followed. My hazy memory is that there was possibly another route somewhere there that didn't have a lower section and that Flash may coincide with that too?
jon - 27/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myola 
2Leap of Faith
-
E4 6a  
3Life jacketE6 6b ** 
4Sea Empress Strikes Back
-
E5 6a  
5Blind MagicE1 5b *8
6Bed RockE2 5c * 
7MyolaHS 4b ***378
8MyopiaVS 4c *83
9Once in a Lifetime
-
E1 5a  
 Stuntsman's 
11OversightS 4a *27
12Birds eh!
-
S 4a  
13Two Men and a ScroteHVS 5a 3
14Big Sea RunningE1 5b *23
15Traction ActionE3 5c *6
16Evil Knievel
-
E4 6b  
17The Stuntman's Revenge
-
E4 6b  
18StuntsmanE2 5b *23
19Heady Kidd
-
E3 5b  
20The Dog's a Whore
-
E4 5c  
21The Sadist Dietician's Route for the Criminally Obese
-
E4 6a 1
22Dog in the Piano
-
E6 6b  
23A Waking Dream
-
E4 6a  
24Out of my mindE5 6a ***6
 Stuntsman's Wall 
26One Man and a Scrote
-
E4 6a  
27Dodging the Issue
-
E2 5b  
28The Fast Show
-
E2 5c  
29Jessie's Diet
-
E1 5b  
30Job of Work
-
S 4a  
31Suit You Sir
-
VS 4c  
32A Corker
-
E3 5b  
33Tidal Threats
-
VS 4c  
 Riders on the Storm 
35Bloody Knee
-
VS 5a  
36Sinister Sister
-
E2 5b  
37Pugwash
-
HVS 5a *11
38Cut-Throat
-
E2 5c *3
39Mind the Dawes
-
E1 5b  
40Riders on the StormHVS 5a ***648
41Lucky FindHVS 5a *6
42Middle CHVS 5a **12
43Big CE1 5a *10
44Reincarnation
-
E2 5b  
45C++HVS 5a *33
46Painted Head
-
VS 4c 24
47The Anvil Chorus
-
HVS 5a  
 Manzoku 
49The Digit Counter FallsHVS 5b 24
50North CornerVD 260
51North Corner Variation StartS 4a 31
52Highland FlingHS 4b *753
53QuickstepVS 4b *788
54LimboVS 4c *771
55Dire StraitsE2 5c *124
56World War III BluesHVS 5b 212
57HeaducationE3 5c *3
58PlankwalkE5 6b *10
59HerculesHVS 5a **721
60FlashE4 6a **42
61Trevor's Route
-
E6 6b  
62The Second Coming of the Messiah
-
E5 6b  
63Stennis ElbowE2 5c *76
64ManzokuE1 5b ***891
65Man Alive
-
E2 5b  
66Cool for CatsE1 5b ***739
67Sten Gun
-
E3 6a  
 Pleasure Dome 
69Anyone for StennisE2 5b *118
70Loco DementiaE3 6a *28
71The Stennis Inquisition
-
E2 5c  
72Stennis PillarHVS 5a *66
73Tigger's Traverse
-
HVS 4c  
74Gold FeverE2 5c 2
75DiagnosisE4 6a * 
76Mean StreakE5 6a **21
77The Great ElmyraE5 6c * 
78Pleasure DomeE3 5c ***321
79Stennis the Menace / The Great ElmyraE6 6c ***3
80Stennis the MenaceE6 6b ***4
81Grey English MorningE5 6b ***16
82Grey English WimpoutE2 5b **2
83Walk on the Wild SideE3 5c **3
84SuperbratE2 5c *1
 Stennis ArÍte 
86Stennis ChimneyS *98
87Maelstrom ChimneyS 4a *44
88Stennis ArÍteHS 4b **216
89Spank
-
E5 6a  
90FetishE5 6b *8
91Merchant of StennisE3 5c **53
92Man o'War
-
E3 5c  
93BludgeonHVS 5a **305
94Mistaken IdentityE1 5b *14
95Big WaveE3 6a *8
96White Snake
-
E1 5b 6
97The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
HVS 5b 6
98Kanda Bongo ManHVS 5a 10
99JK Mouth of the South
-
E1 5a  
100Battle Galleons
-
HVS 5b 7
101Goblin TeasmadeE1 5b 5
102Foaming at the MouthE2 5c *4
103Spit it Out
-
E3 5c 2
104Talking Dirty
-
E1 5b 5
105Mouthing OffVS 4c 8
106Don't Speak with Your Mouth Full
-
S 5
107The Watching Scrote
-
S 4a  
108Old Master's Wall
-
E1 5a  

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