Saddle Head

Climbs 104 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The promenant small headland with radar station at its summit provide a series of cliffs which give a number of fine climbs. The high concentration of lower and middle grade climbs, and its ease of access makes this a very popular area.

Access notes
DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CYCLOPS EYE AREA 
2Cooler than AugustS
3The Empty QuarterHS 4b
4HadesVS 4c
5Slip and SlideVS 4c
6Hotter than JulyE2 5b
7Unbelievable StoriesE2 5b **
8Telling Sories to the SeaE2 5c *
9KipperE1 5b *
10SurformE4 5c
11Between the Pub and the Green SeaE1 5b *
12New Route FeverE3 5c
13Sharp PracticeE1 5b
14Bridge of SizeHVS 5a *
15Size Isn't EverythingE3 6a
16PersuasionE1 5b *
17A Stretch of the ImaginationE1 5b
18A Grand Day OutHVS 4c **
19YoiksHVS 5a
20WhoopsHVS 5a *
21So LowVS 4b
22Low VelocityE5 6b
23WhoopeeE1 5a *
24Whoopee-variationHVS 5a
25BrochetteHVS 5a
26Tiamat6a
27Fire and Sword6b
28Aegir6c
29Sea SerpentE4 5c
30Little Mermaid5c
31Spring Low5a
32Generals6c
33Sweet ChariotHVS 5a
34DunkVS 4b
35Blazing SaddlesHVS 5b
36It's In the Bag DadE2 5b *
37Saddle SoreE2 5b
38Insecurity BluesE2 5c **
39Stirrup PumpHVS 5a
40Red ToupeeE2 5c
41Apes MaE3 6a
42Fast and BulbousE4 6a
43TimeslipE3 5c *
44Down Time5c
45Sundown6b
46New LabourS
47Leaning to the LeftHVS 5a
48Spin DoctorE1 5b
49OrimaE2 5b
50Barbed Wire BluesE2 5b
 THE MAIN CLIFF 
52RimoaE4 6a
53IllusionHVS 5a
541988 AktivatorE1 5b
55Clint EastwoodE1 5b *
56Birdman of AlcatrazVS 4c
57SnapE1 5b
58Evening LightE5 6a *
59UnderklingonE5 6b
60Fluid ConnectionE3 5c ***
61Rantum ScootE3 5b *
62Houlet's ChimneyHVS 4c
63Eaves DripperHVS 4c *
64Blue Sky on the RightVS 4c
65Blue SkyVS 4b ***
66Blue LagoonE1 5b
67Red AlertHVS 5a
68LandvetterVS 4c ***
69Air WavesVS 4b
70The FezHVS 5a *
 THE UPPER TIER 
72Mustapha BindunVS 4c
73HazeVS 4b
74Sea MistHS 4a **
75Breaking WindE1 5b
76Sunset BoulevardE1 5b
77Pink 'UnVS 5a *
78BroadeHS 4b *
79Infra RedS *
80DrystoneHS 4b
81WetstoneHS 4b *
82UrchinS 4a *
83BuffVD *
84Flake-QuakeS *
85Fel GwyrD *
86Forgotten CornerVD *
87Small BeginningsD *
88Nameless WallHS 4b *
89Follow the ChalkVS 4b *
90No HandsVS 4c *
91Smilin' JugsE3 5c
92Get on LordE2 5b *
93Upon a Weather Beaton CliffVS 4c
94Final GrooveD
 BELOW THE DESCENT RIDGE 
96Gorgeous Grey GrooveVS 5a
97GeorgeHS 4b
98Stay Sharp 2VS 4c
99101S 4a *
100Family SandwichHS 4b
101Rocky Rides in StyleHS 4b
102Smelly NellyHS 4b *
103Never in DoustS 4a
104Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck VariantS 4a
105ToddyD
 THE TIP 
107Assassination RunE1 5b
108First TimeHVS 5a
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