Saddle Head

Climbs 104 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The promenant small headland with radar station at its summit provide a series of cliffs which give a number of fine climbs. The high concentration of lower and middle grade climbs, and its ease of access makes this a very popular area.

Approach notes
DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CYCLOPS EYE AREA  
2Cooler than AugustS  
3The Empty QuarterHS 4b  
4HadesVS 4c  
5Slip and SlideVS 4c  
6Hotter than JulyE2 5b  
7Unbelievable StoriesE2 5b ** 
8Telling Sories to the SeaE2 5c * 
9KipperE1 5b * 
10SurformE4 5c  
11Between the Pub and the Green SeaE1 5b *1
12New Route FeverE3 5c  
13Sharp PracticeE1 5b 1
14Bridge of SizeHVS 5a *7
15Size Isn't EverythingE3 6a  
16PersuasionE1 5b *5
17A Stretch of the ImaginationE1 5b  
18A Grand Day OutHVS 4c **12
19YoiksHVS 5a 3
20WhoopsHVS 5a *8
21So LowVS 4b  
22Low VelocityE5 6b  
23WhoopeeE1 5a *2
24Whoopee-variationHVS 5a 1
25BrochetteHVS 5a  
26Tiamat6a  
27Fire and Sword6b  
28Aegir6c  
29Sea SerpentE4 5c  
30Little Mermaid5c  
31Spring Low5a  
32Generals6c  
33Sweet ChariotHVS 5a  
34DunkVS 4b  
35Blazing SaddlesHVS 5b  
36It's In the Bag DadE2 5b *2
37Saddle SoreE2 5b  
38Insecurity BluesE2 5c **1
39Stirrup PumpHVS 5a  
40Red ToupeeE2 5c  
41Apes MaE3 6a  
42Fast and BulbousE4 6a  
43TimeslipE3 5c * 
44Down Time5c  
45Sundown6b  
46New LabourS 1
47Leaning to the LeftHVS 5a 1
48Spin DoctorE1 5b 1
49OrimaE2 5b 1
50Barbed Wire BluesE2 5b  
 THE MAIN CLIFF  
52RimoaE4 6a  
53IllusionHVS 5a 1
541988 AktivatorE1 5b  
55Clint EastwoodE1 5b * 
56Birdman of AlcatrazVS 4c 1
57SnapE1 5b  
58Evening LightE5 6a * 
59UnderklingonE5 6b  
60Fluid ConnectionE3 5c *** 
61Rantum ScootE3 5b * 
62Houlet's ChimneyHVS 4c  
 BLUE SKY  
64Eaves DripperHVS 4c **76
65Blue Sky on the RightVS 4c 3
66Blue SkyVS 4b ***568
67Blue LagoonE1 5b *10
68Red AlertHVS 5a  
69LandvetterVS 4b **57
70Air WavesVS 4b 1
71The FezHVS 5a * 
 MOD BUILDING  
73Mustapha BindunVS 4c 5
74HazeVS 4b *153
75Sea MistHS 4a **1098
76Breaking WindE1 5b 68
77Sunset BoulevardHVS 5a *164
78Pink 'UnVS 5a **487
79BroadeHS 4b *57
80Infra RedS *349
81DrystoneHS 4b 31
82WetstoneS 4b *366
83UrchinS 4a *419
84BuffVD 296
85Flake-QuakeS 4a *626
86Fel GwyrD *390
87Forgotten CornerHVD *370
88Small BeginningsVD *424
89Nameless WallHS 4b *562
90Follow the ChalkHS 4b *242
91No HandsVS 4b *414
92Smilin' JugsE3 5c  
93Get on LordE2 5b *67
94Upon a Weather Beaton CliffVS 4c 38
95Final GrooveD 34
 BELOW THE DESCENT RIDGE  
97Gorgeous Grey GrooveVS 5a 17
98GeorgeHS 4b 5
99Stay Sharp 2VS 4c 14
100101S 4a *22
101Family SandwichHS 4b 7
102Rocky Rides in StyleHS 4b 5
103Smelly NellyHS 4b *19
104Never in DoustS 4a 9
105Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck VariantS 4a 11
106ToddyD 6
 THE TIP  
108Assassination RunE1 5b 1
109First TimeHVS 5a 2
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