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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SR 958928 (OS Landranger #158)

Saddle Head

Pembrokeshire, WALES

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A favourite among the first-time lower-grade climbers at Pembroke, because of its easy routes and access. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. For those with the confidence to beat the tide, sample Blue Sky (VS 4b) - is it the best VS in Britain? Non-tidal routes worth doing include Pink 'Un (VS 5a), Sunset Boulevard (HVS 5a) and Get On Lord (E2 5b).

Weather forecast

Today	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006), Pembroke (part two) (1996),
Out of print: Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	CYCLOPS EYE
2	Cooler than August	S
3	The Empty Quarter	HS 4b
4	Hades	VS 4c
5	Slip and Slide	VS 4c
6	Hotter than July	E2 5b
7	Unbelievable Stories	E2 5b
8	Telling Sories to The Sea	E2 5c
9	Kipper	E1 5b
10	Surform	E4 5c
11	Between the Pub and the Green Sea	E1 5b	1
12	New Route Fever	E3 5c
13	Sharp Practice	E1 5b
14	Bridge of Size	VS 4c	4
15	Persuasion	E1 5b	4
16	A Stretch of the Imagination	E1 5b
17	A Grand Day Out	HVS 5a **	7
18	Yoiks	HVS 5a	2
19	Whoops	HVS 5a *	6
20	So Low	VS 4b
21	Low Velocity	E5 6b
22	Whoopee	E1 5a *	2
23	Whoopee-variation	HVS 5a	1
24	Brochette	HVS 5a
25	Tiamat	6a
26	Fire and Sword	6b
27	Aegir	6c
28	Serpent	E4 5c
29	Little Mermaid	5
30	Spring Low	5
31	Generals	6c
32	Sweet Chariot	HVS 5a
33	Dunk	VS 4b
34	Blazing Saddles	HVS 5b
35	It's In the Bag Dad	E2 5b *	2
36	Saddle Sore	E2 5b
37	Insecurity Blues	E2 5c **	1
38	Stirrup Pump	HVS 5a
39	Red Toupee	E2 5c
40	Apes Ma	E3 6a
41	Fast and Bulbous	E4 6a
42	Timeslip	E3 5c
43	New Labour	S	1
44	Leaning to the Left	HVS 5a	1
45	Spin Doctor	E1 5b	1
46	Orima	E2 5b	1
47	Barbed Wire Blues	E2 5b
	MAIN CLIFF
49	Rimoa	E4 6a
50	Illusion	HVS 5a	1
51	1988 Aktivator	E1 5b

	Climb name	Grade	x

52	Clint Eastwood	E1 5b
53	Birdman of Alcatraz	VS 4c	1
54	Snap	E1 5b
55	Evening Light	E5 6a
56	Underklingon	E5 6b
57	Fluid Connection	E3 5c
58	Rantum Scoot	E3 5b
59	Houlet's Chimney	HVS 4c
60	Eaves Dripper	HVS 4c **	51
61	Blue Sky	VS 4b ***	367
62	Blue Lagoon	E1 5b *	8
63	Red Alert	HVS 5a
64	Landvetter	VS 4b *	25
65	Air Waves	VS 4b
66	The Fez	HVS 5a
	UPPER TIER
68	Mustapha Bindun	VS 4c	2
69	Haze	VS 4b	102
70	Sea Mist	HS 4a **	767
71	Sunset Boulevard	HVS 5a	118
72	Breaking Wind	E1 5b	52
73	Pink 'Un	VS 5a *	335
74	Broade	HS 4b *	44
75	Infra Red	S *	265
76	Drystone	HS 4b	9
77	Wetstone	HS 4b *	267
78	Urchin	S *	313
79	Buff	VD *	208
80	Flake-Quake	S *	436
81	Fel Gwyr	D *	264
82	Forgotten Corner	VD	263
83	Small Beginnings	D *	298
84	Nameless Wall	HS 4b *	396
85	Follow the Chalk	HS 4b *	118
86	No Hands	VS 4b *	309
87	Upon a Weather Beaton Cliff	VS 4c	19
88	Get on Lord	E2 5b *	48
89	Final Groove	D	26
90	Gorgeous Grey Groove	VS 5a	3
91	Stay Sharp 2	VS 4c	11
92	101	S 4a *	8
93	Family Sandwich	HS 4b	4
94	Rocky Rides in Style	HS 4b	2
95	Smelly Nelly	HS 4b *	7
96	Never in Doust	S 4a	5
97	Big Girl's Blouse - Open Neck Variant	S 4a	6
98	Toddy	D	2
	THE TIP
100	First Time	HVS 5a	2
101	George *	HS 4ba	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Access notes
Tidal on some routes, but mostly not.

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Park at St Govans and walk W past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer loundsy