The Castle

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Access notes
Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

Bird ban March 1 - July 31.

Park at St Govans car park and walk W.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 3 Range East - Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WEST FACE  
2SwelterE1 5a 1
3AmnesiaVS 4c 2
4GarfieldVS 4c 15
5Time and TideHS 4b 29
6Lifeboat DrillVS 4b 24
7SpinkVS 5a *24
8Caribbean CruiseS 4a *13
9Normal, the World's Cutest KittenS 4a 9
10ThornbackHS 4a 3
11OdieVS 4b 3
12Pina ColadaS 4a  
13Black RussianS 1
14Nursery FizzD 1
15Between the SheetsS 4b 2
16White LadyS 4a 9
17Sarsparilla SunsetHVS 5a 39
18Tequila SunriseE1 5b 3
19KateVS 4c 12
20Decree NisiHS 4a 6
 SOUTHWEST FACE  
22Too LittleVS 4c *77
23SeulementHVS 5a *11
24RizlaHVS 5a *6
25Atmospheric TentHVS 5a *30
26Atmospheric Tent DirectE1 5c *12
27Abseil GrooveS 4a *34
28Davy CrocketHVS 5a *54
29AcropolisE3 5c 1
 SOUTH FACE  
31Too Much PressureE1 5a ***202
32Out for the CountE4 6a ***56
33Under the InfluenceE4 6a ***74
34Throne of BloodE7 6b * 
35Over the HillE4 6a **30
36Cripple CreekE2 5a 1
37Downward BoundE4 6a ***62
38Heat of the MomentE5 6b ***8
39Chasing ShadeE5 6b ***3
40VistaE2 5c **20
 EAST FACE  
42BastilleHVS 5a  
43Kramer vs KramerE1 5b *2
44Daze of the WeakE6 6b * 
45Anniversary WaltzE3 5c **12
46Barbecuing TraditionsE5 6b ** 
47Critical MassesE4 6a **3
48VengeanceE4 6a ** 
49Dead ChoughedE6 6b *** 
50TrapdoorE2 5b * 
51Black Man RayE4 6a **2
52Wishful ThinkingE1 5b ***72
53Tragedy and MysteryE4 6a **6
 THE LANDWARD FACE  
55White KnightE3 5c  
56Brother BeyondE3 5c 1
57PortcullisHVS *3
58Heat TreatmentE5 6a **2
59Hot, Ready and PantingE5 6a ** 
60Lone ArcherE4 5c 3
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