Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces SW

Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

 

 

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Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Face 
2Swelter
-
E1 5a 2
3AmnesiaVS 4c 2
4GarfieldVS 4c 16
5Time and Tide
-
HS 4b 30
6Lifeboat Drill
-
VS 4b 25
7SpinkVS 5a *28
8Caribbean Cruise
-
S 4a *13
9Normal, the World's Cutest KittenS 4a 9
10Thornback
-
HS 4a 3
11OdieVS 4b 3
12Pina Colada
-
S 4a  
13Black Russian
-
S 1
14Nursery FizzD 1
15Between the SheetsS 4b 2
16White LadyS 4a 9
17Sarsparilla SunsetHVS 5a 42
18Tequila SunriseE1 5b 3
19Kate
-
VS 4c 14
20Decree Nisi
-
HS 4a 6
21Too LittleVS 4c *83
22SeulementHVS 5a *11
23RizlaHVS 5a *6
24Atmospheric TentHVS 5a *32
25Atmospheric Tent DirectE1 5c *14
26Abseil GrooveS 4a *35
27Davy CrocketHVS 5a *58
28AcropolisE3 5c 1
 South Face 
30Too Much PressureE1 5a ***229
31Out for the CountE4 6a ***56
32Under the InfluenceE4 6a ***80
33Throne of BloodE7 6c * 
34Over the HillE4 6a **30
35Cripple CreekE2 5a 1
36Downward BoundE4 6a ***64
37Heat of the MomentE5 6b ***8
38Chasing ShadeE5 6b ***3
39VistaE2 5c **21
 East Face 
41BastilleHVS 5a  
42Kramer vs KramerE1 5b *2
43Daze of the WeakE6 6b * 
44Anniversary WaltzE3 5c **14
45Barbecuing TraditionsE5 6b ** 
46Critical MassesE4 6a **3
47VengeanceE4 6a ** 
48Dead ChoughedE6 6b *** 
49TrapdoorE2 5b * 
50Black Man RayE4 6a **2
51Wishful ThinkingE1 5b ***79
52Tragedy and MysteryE4 6a **6
 The Landward Face 
54White KnightE3 5c  
55Brother BeyondE3 5c 2
56PortcullisHVS *3
57Heat TreatmentE5 6a **2
58Hot, Ready and PantingE5 6a ** 
59Lone ArcherE4 5c 4

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