The Castle

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Access notes
Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

Bird ban March 1 - July 31.

Park at St Govans car park and walk W.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 3 Range East - Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1AmnesiaVS 4c
2GarfieldVS 4c
3Time and TideHS 4b
4Lifeboat DrillVS 4b
5SpinkVS 5a *
6Caribbean CruiseS 4a *
7Normal, the World's Cutest KittenS 4a
8ThornbackHS 4a
9OdieVS 4b
10Pina ColadaS 4a
11Black RussianS
12Nursery FizzD
13Between the SheetsS 4b
14White LadyS 4a
15Sarsparilla SunsetHVS 5a
16Tequila SunriseE1 5b
17KateVS 4c
18Decree NisiHS 4a
19Too LittleVS 4c *
20SeulementHVS 5a
21RizlaHVS 5b
22Atmospheric TentHVS 5a *
23Atmospheric Tent DirectE1 5c
24Abseil GrooveS
25Davy CrocketHVS 5a *
26AcropolisE3 5c
27Too Much PressureE1 5a ***
28Out for the CountE4 6a ***
29Under the InfluenceE4 6a ***
30Over the HillE4 6a **
31Cripple CreekE2 5a
32Downward BoundE4 6a ***
33Heat of the MomentE5 6b ***
34Chasing ShadeE5 6b ***
35VistaE2 5c *
36Kramer vs KramerE1 5b
37Anniversary WaltzE3 5c *
38Critical MassesE4 6a *
39Black Man RayE4 6a **
40Wishful ThinkingE1 5b **
41Tragedy and MysteryE4 5c ***
42White KnightE3 5c
43Brother BeyondE3 5c
44PortcullisHVS *
45Heat TreatmentE5 6a **
46Hot, Ready and PantingE5 6a **
47Lone ArcherE4 5c
48Swelter *E1
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK 
 WEST FACE 
 EAST FACE 
52BastilleHVS 5a
53Daze of the WeakE6 6b *
54Barbecuing TraditionsE5 6b **
55VengeanceE4 6a **
56Dead ChoughedE6 6b ***
57TrapdoorE2 5b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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