The Castle

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 6m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Access notes
Tidal in most parts, some routes only accessible at low tide.

Bird ban March 1 - July 31.

Park at St Govans car park and walk W.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 3 Range East - Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay (2011), Pembroke (2009), Pembroke MiniGuide (2006),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996), Pembroke (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1AmnesiaVS 4c 1
2GarfieldVS 4c 14
3Time and TideHS 4b 28
4Lifeboat DrillVS 4b 23
5SpinkVS 5a *24
6Caribbean CruiseS 4a *13
7Normal, the World's Cutest KittenS 4a 7
8ThornbackHS 4a 3
9OdieVS 4b 2
10Pina ColadaS 4a  
11Black RussianS 1
12Nursery FizzD 1
13Between the SheetsS 4b 2
14White LadyS 4a 6
15Sarsparilla SunsetHVS 5a 30
16Tequila SunriseE1 5b 2
17KateVS 4c 11
18Decree NisiHS 4a 6
19Too LittleVS 4c *64
20SeulementHVS 5a 10
21RizlaHVS 5b 6
22Atmospheric TentHVS 5a *26
23Atmospheric Tent DirectE1 5c 7
24Abseil GrooveS 33
25Davy CrocketHVS 5a *43
26AcropolisE3 5c 1
27Too Much PressureE1 5a ***171
28Out for the CountE4 6a ***50
29Under the InfluenceE4 6a ***65
30Over the HillE4 6a **29
31Cripple CreekE2 5a  
32Downward BoundE4 6a ***50
33Heat of the MomentE5 6b ***8
34Chasing ShadeE5 6b ***1
35VistaE2 5c *17
36Kramer vs KramerE1 5b 1
37Anniversary WaltzE3 5c *12
38Critical MassesE4 6a *3
39Black Man RayE4 6a **2
40Wishful ThinkingE1 5b **59
41Tragedy and MysteryE4 5c ***6
42White KnightE3 5c  
43Brother BeyondE3 5c 1
44PortcullisHVS *3
45Heat TreatmentE5 6a **1
46Hot, Ready and PantingE5 6a ** 
47Lone ArcherE4 5c 2
48Swelter *E1 1
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
 WEST FACE  
 EAST FACE  
52BastilleHVS 5a  
53Daze of the WeakE6 6b * 
54Barbecuing TraditionsE5 6b ** 
55VengeanceE4 6a ** 
56Dead ChoughedE6 6b *** 
57TrapdoorE2 5b * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

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