UKC

Climbs 67
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

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Bridget Glaister on Gangway Climb (HVD) on the South Crag at Castle Rock of Triermain (from Lake District Climbs Rockfax) © Mark Glaister

Crag features

One of the great Lake District outcrops with a fine spread of climbs to keep most teams satisfied for a day or two. The North Crag is a towering wall seamed with long grooves and ramps which holds a selection of classic multi-pitch lines that are both steep and sustained. The South Crag is a far friendlier spot that gets lots of sun.

Unfortunately the left-hand side of the North Crag suffered a large rockfall in 2018 that wiped out some routes; those that remain have been reclimbed and the rock is mostly stable although care is still needed.

Approach notes

Park at Legburthwaite carpark (fee). Take the path opposite the toilets and over the road to a field. Walk up the field a short way to a track. 

For the North Crag, walk left along the track to a gate and then up next to the fence to reach a water culvert. Cross the small bridge and head up to below the cliff. 

For the South Crag, cross the track and take a well-defined path up the field and over a water culvert and wall to the base of the cliff.

No Access Issues

IMPORTANT NOTE: following a number of years of increasing instability, a significant rockfall occurred in November 2018 on the North Buttress. This has resulted in signficant changes to this section of the crag, including some areas with still loose rock. Any climbers considering climbing on this part of the crag should be aware of the potential for loose rock and changes to routes within the rockfall area.

I left my blue alpkit jacket at the base of direct route on the south crag on the 16th like a numpty. It also had a BD head torch in the pocket. There were two climbers still there when I left, if anyone knows them please give them my number- 07983512716
Barney Pannone - 25/Sep/23
Found the routes here bold as the protection was quite spaced at times.
Michael Morrell - 16/May/22
Yep agree with that, in a storm is not fun, the hard move off the spike onto the ramp is not easy when a river is running down the ramp!
Greg Kirkpatrick - 17/Jun/04
overhanging bastion is \'interesting\' in a storm...! Must be done (but not in a storm)
robbie c - 19/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

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