Climbs 64
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

St John's & Castle Rock © Jonathan Lagoe - UKC

Crag features

WARNING!! POTENTIAL FOR MASSIVE ROCKFALL ABOVE AND LEFT OF FINISH OF OVERHANGING BASTION. See UKC News article (22/07/11) for further info and photos of the crack which is opening at the top of the crag.

UPDATE 6/03/15 from the FRCC Guides Facebook page:- "The crack continues to be monitored and is opening more rapidly. This means that the whole of the north end of the North Crag is an extremely dangerous place to be. Our recommendation is that you avoid any route to the left of May Day Cracks." The FRCC Facebook page also has a topo of the affected area.

Superb easy access crag. North Crag 75m, steep and sometimes bold climbing - Watchtower(E2), North Crag Eliminate(E1), Agony(E1), Zig Zag(MVS), Overhanging Bastion(VS), May Day Cracks(VS), Thirlmere Eliminate(E1), Rigor Mortis(E2), Ghost(E3), Triermain Eliminate(E2), Angels Highway(HVS), Ted Cheasby(E2), Eliminate Girdle(E1). South Crag - less steep, sunnier and quicker drying - 35m - Via Media(S), Direct Route(VS), Kleine Rinne(VS), Gangway Climb(VD).

Approach notes

Park in car park below the crag - five minute walk in.

Guidebooks

Yep agree with that, in a storm is not fun, the hard move off the spike onto the ramp is not easy when a river is running down the ramp!
Greg Kirkpatrick - 17/Jun/04
overhanging bastion is \'interesting\' in a storm...! Must be done (but not in a storm)
robbie c - 19/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The North Gully Wall 
2Castle Wall
-
MVS 4a 6
3Flying Buttress
-
VS 4b 7
 The North Crag 
5The Watchtower
-
E2 5c **27
6The Barbican
-
VS 4c *46
7Matheson Avenue
-
HVS 5a *8
8Side of the Hill
-
E1 5a *7
9North Crag Eliminate
-
E1 5b **340
10First Republic
-
E3 6a *3
11The Last Laugh
-
E3 6b *13
12Agony
-
E1 5a **77
13DeliveranceE1 5a **6
14Zig Zag
-
VS 4b **319
15Ecasty
-
E2 5c 4
16Overhanging Bastion
-
VS 5a ***705
17One World, One Family
-
E1 5a *2
18Eliminator
-
E2 5b 4
19May Day Cracks
-
VS 5a **119
20Wet Day Wander
-
E1 5a  
21Thirlmere EliminateE1 5b ***189
22Wild Wall Variation
-
E4 6a  
23The Ultimate Eliminate
-
E3 5c  
24Rigor MortisE2 5c ***92
25Last on the List
-
HVS 5a *6
26White Dwarf
-
E3 5c *16
27The Ghost
-
E3 5c **26
28Harlot Face
-
E1 5b *206
29Triemain EliminateE2 5b **95
30Where Monkeys DareE5 6b  
31Angel's HighwayHVS 5a **48
32Ted CheasbyE2 5c **82
33GabrielE2 5b  
34Eliminate girdleE1 5b **12
35The Final Giggle
-
E1 5a 20
36WingnutE2 5c 3
37DragE1 5b 4
 The South Crag 
39Howler
-
E1 5b 20
40Chapel Cracks
-
VS 4b *115
41Eleven Hundred Miles
-
E4 6a 1
42hope
-
E2 5b 13
43Scoop and CrackHVS 5a 36
44Green Eggs and Ham
-
E1 5c *65
45Reward
-
E2 5c 10
46Gazebo
-
HVS 5a *557
47Via Media
-
S **893
48Direct Route
-
VS 4b **630
49Direct Route Direct Start
-
VS 4c 30
50Failed Romantic
-
E1 5b *199
51Romantically challengedE1 5b **48
52Kleine Rinne
-
VS 4b **704
53Yew Tree Climb
-
VD 742
54Pinnacle Wall
-
HVS 4c 28
55Gangway Climb
-
VD **654
56Gangway DirectMVS 4a 19
57Wall Climb
-
S 3c *300
58LilithHS 133
59Slab ClimbS 4a **817
60Companion way
-
MS 40
61No Name
-
M *104
62South Crag GirdleS 18
63Walsh's Blind Variant
-
E2 5b *2
64Gazebo direct
-
HVS 5a ***63
65Romantically Direct *E1 5b *7
66Ted Cheasby Direct Finish *E4 6a **1
67Chapel Cracks RH Start *VS 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull