Climbs 48
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 2351m a.s.l
Faces W

Midway on Cupcake, Bear Crag, California. © jon

Crag features

This is a great crag which combines the style of climbing found at Owens River Gorge with the more column based climbing at, say, Frenchman's Coulée. Don't be put off by the left hand end of the crag (the first bit you get to), the crag just gets better and better - and bigger - the further you go. A 60m rope will probably do you, but a 70m removes any doubt... Take about 15 quickdraws - a quick look at the guide will tell you the maximum is 13, but it's nice to have a few extra to extend some on the longer pitches. Although the guide book says somewhere that the grades are similar to Owens, I found them to be about a letter grade harder.

The absence of stars on routes doesn't imply lack of quality, it simply means I haven't climbed them. Star ratings from 1 - 5 are in the guide.

Approach notes

From Mammoth, go over Minaret Summit to Reds Meadows. This requires an early start to beat the shuttle bus service in the summer - cars are banned after 7:00am or take the bus. After about mid September this no longer applies. From the parking follow the guidebook description. NOTE: The area was subject to a fire in the early 90s and there are still many burnt and rotting trees standing. These fall in windy weather and apart from being dangerous, change the footpath. At the time of writing (Oct 09), the small path joining the footpath to the stock trail starts 50m past the large boulder and not just left of it. After Boundary Creek the Crag Trail branches off left 100m after the creek and not 30 feet. This may well change this winter...

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 HIBERNATION CAVES 
2Arete Already5.10c * 
3Exappeal5.10b  
4Little Walt
-
5.11a  
 FIRE WALL 
6White Lightning
-
5.12a  
7White African
-
5.11c  
8Project 1
-
Project  
9Smoked Cake
-
5.11a  
10Serpico
-
5.12a 1
11Texas Chainsaw Massacre
-
5.12b  
 THE TOMBSTONE 
13Dilate
-
5.11d  
14Regurgitator5.11b **1
15Stairway to Heaven5.10a * 
16Perpetrator
-
5.12c  
17Reanimator
-
5.11d 1
18Sidearm
-
5.11d  
19Tombstone - open project
-
Project  
20To the Grave
-
5.12d  
21Brain Dead
-
5.13b  
22Tales from the Crypt
-
5.12c  
 UNENCHANTED FOREST 
24Project 2
-
5.1  
25Barely Canadian5.11c * 
26Penetrator
-
5.12b  
27Idiot Savant
-
5.12c  
 HUBER WALL 
29I Fly
-
5.13c  
30Tension Tamer
-
5.13a  
31Grain Tamer
-
5.12c  
32Project 3
-
Project  
33Project 4
-
Project  
 TEFLON WALL 
35Cone of Silence
-
5.12a  
36Cable Guy5.11d *** 
37Cupcake5.11c ** 
38Garden Route5.11c *** 
39Right Again5.10d *** 
40Hamster Style5.11b *** 
41Variation5.11b ** 
 THE COLUMNS 
43Mercy Buckets5.12a ** 
44Flamed Thrower
-
5.12a  
45Flying Circus
-
5.12c  
46Chicks Dig It5.11a *** 
47Project 5
-
5.1  
48Ashes to Ashes
-
5.11d  
49Holy Smoke
-
5.11c  
50Friendly Fire5.11b *** 
51Easy Rider
-
5.11c  
52Stepping Stone
-
5.11d  
53Project 6
-
Project  
 SOUTH BUTTRESS 
55Jagged Sky
-
5.12a  
56Horizon X
-
5.11c  

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