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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SD 443861 (OS Landranger #97)

Chapel Head Scar

Cumbria, ENGLAND

Climbs 76 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 70m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.

2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May

2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!

Weather forecast

Today	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Lake District – Met Office: Lake District

Guidebooks
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Lancashire Rock (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	GULLY WALL
2	Cool Your Jets Mum	6c	5
3	La Flange en Decomposition	6b *	37
4	Gully Wall	6b	16
5	Gully Wall Variation	6b+	13
6	Gully Wall Direct	6c *	1
7	Winter Pincher	6b+	3
8	Oddbods	6b *	6
9	Strongbow	6a+ *	12
10	Comedy Show	6a+	13
11	The Veil	VS 4b	2
	MOONCHILD BUTTRESS
13	Yashmak	6c
14	The Heinous Penis	6c *	21
15	Starshine	E1 5b	4
16	Jelly Head	7a *	11
17	Interstellar Overdrive	6c **	91
18	Dune	E4 6a *
19	Cement Head	7a+ **	25
20	Sun God	HVS 5b *	4
21	Combat Plumber	7a *
22	Zantom Phone	7c+ ***	3
23	Phantom Zone	7b+ ***	21
24	Phantom Zone Extension	7c ***	7
25	Stan Pulsar	7b+ **	4
26	Surfing with the Alien	8a *	1
27	Bleep and Booster	7a **	43
28	Moonchild	E4 5c **	18
29	The Moon Loon Connection	E4 5c ***	2
30	War of the Worlds	6c+ *
31	62 West Wallaby Street	7a *	8
32	War Hero	7a **	55
33	Tricky Pricky Ears	7b **	3
34	Lunatic	E3 5c **	4
35	Darth Vadar	E5 6a *
36	Maboulisme Merveilleux	7c+ **
	THE GREAT WALL
38	The Route of All Evil	7a+ ***	13
39	Eraser Head/The True Path	7b+ **	10
40	Cyborg	E2 5b *	6
41	Mid-air Collision / Flight Path	7b ***	16

	Climb name	Grade	x

42	The Omega Factor	6c	3
	THE GREAT BUTTRESS
44	Sad But True	6c+	2
45	Half Life	6b+
46	Half Life with alternative finish	6c+ *	7
47	Up Town	6c *	32
48	Up Town with alternative finish	6c+
49	Atomic Bong	E1 5b	3
50	Chain Reaction	E3 5c	1
51	Witherslack Alice	6c *	15
52	Shades of Mediocrity	7a *	30
53	Gilbert Cardigan	7a+ *	29
54	Guloot Kalagna	7c **	5
55	Electric Warrior	7b **	39
56	Agent Provocateur	7c **
57	Calling Mr Hall	8a **	2
58	Wargames	7b ***	46
59	More Games	7b *	3
60	Stretchy Perineum	7b+ **	2
61	Perverted Start	7b+ *	3
62	For When the Tree Falls	7b+	1
63	Android	E4 5c ***	14
64	Perverse Pepere	7a **	15
65	A Song for Europe	7b+ ***	14
66	La Mangoustine Scatouflange	7a+ ***	29
67	Super Dupont	7b+ ***	16
68	Super Duper Dupont	7c ***	15
69	Prime Evil	7c+ ***	6
70	Unrighteous Doctors	7c+ ***	1
71	Doctor Evil	8a ***	2
72	Tufa King Hard	6c *	126
73	Driller Killer	7a+ **	19
74	Videodrome	7b+ **	3
75	Warm Push	6b+ *	25
76	Reefer Madness	6c+ *	34
77	Doctor's Dilemma	6c+	8
78	Cosmic Dancer	7b **	1
	UNKNOWN CLIMBS
80	Cygnus X1	E1 5b	1
81	The Borg	7a+ **	1

Marmot
Milnthorpe, CUMBRIA
"Clothing, sleeping bags, tents, rucksacks, gloves"
www.marmot.com

Advertise here

Access notes
Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Periguines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.

There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.

The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull