Chapel Head Scar Cumbria, ENGLAND
Climbs 76 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 70m a.s.l – Faces SW
Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.
2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May
2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!
Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Periguines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.
There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.
The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Lancashire Rock (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)
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