Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

The Chapel Head Freak Show © richard kirby

Crag features

Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.

2013 Note: bird ban lifted early, open to climbing from May

2013 Note 2: The Android tree is no more so routes previously starting up this are now significantly harder!!!

Approach notes

Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Periguines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.

There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.

The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to promote good practice at the crag - please respect the following: 1. No access to cliffs north of central gully. 2. Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base. 3. Take all litter home with you. 4. There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
Anybody know campsites close to this crag?
mrajyandy - 19/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gully Wall 
2Cool Your Jets Mum6c 12
3La Flange en Decomposition6b *65
4Gully Wall6b *21
5Gully Wall Variation6b+ *16
6Gully Wall Direct
-
6c *6
7Winter Pincher6c+ 5
8Oddbods6c *12
9Strongbow6b+ *20
10Comedy Show6b 24
11The VeilVS 4b 3
 Moonchild Buttress 
13Yashmak6c 2
14The Heinous Penis6c *29
15Starshine6a 32
16Jelly Head7a *18
17Interstellar Overdrive6c+ ***173
18DuneE4 6a *1
19Cement Head7a+ **50
20Sun God6a 23
21Combat Plumber7a **18
22Zantom Phone7c+ ***4
23Phantom Zone7c ***43
24Phantom Zone Extension
-
7c ***25
25Stan Pulsar7b+ **7
26Surfing with the Alien8a *3
27Bleep and Booster7a **93
28MoonchildE4 6a **30
29The Moon Loon ConnectionE4 6a ***4
30War of the Worlds7a **5
3162 West Wallaby Street7a+ *21
32War Hero7a ***127
33Tricky Pricky Ears7b ***20
34LunaticE3 5c **8
35Darth VadarE5 6a  
36Maboulisme Merveilleux7c+ **7
 Great Wall 
38The Route of All Evil7a+ ***34
39Eraser Head/The True Path7b+ ***17
40CyborgE2 5b *13
41Mid-air Collision / Flight Path7b ***39
42The Borg7a+ **9
43The Omega Factor6c 7
 The Great Buttress 
45Sad But True6c+ 4
46Half Life
-
6b+ 4
47Half Life with alternative finish6b+ *14
48Up Town6c **66
49Up Town with alternative finish
-
6c+ 3
50Atomic Bong
-
E1 5b 6
51Chain Reaction
-
E3 5c 3
52Witherslack Alice6c *60
53Witherslack Town6c ***35
54Shades of Mediocrity7a *83
55Gilbert Cardigan7a+ **73
56Guloot Kalagna7c **8
57Electric Warrior7b ***83
58Agent Provocateur7c ** 
59Calling Mr Hall8a **5
60Wargames7b+ ***116
61More Games7b ***6
62Stretchy Perineum7b+ ***9
63Perverted Start7b+ **4
64For When the Tree Falls7c 2
65AndroidE4 5c ***17
66Perverse Pepere7a **22
67A Song for Europe7b+ ***16
68La Mangoustine Scatouflange7a+ ***36
69Witherslack Flange Finish7a+ *1
70Super Dupont7b+ ***42
71Super Duper Dupont7c ***41
72Prime Evil7c+ ***10
73Unrighteous Doctors7c+ ***11
74Doctor Evil8a ***13
75Tufa King Hard6c ***246
76Driller Killer7a+ **26
77Videodrome7b+ **5
78Warm Push6c *46
79Reefer Madness6c+ *51
80Doctor's Dilemma6c+ 12
81Cosmic Dancer7b **2
 unknown climbs 
83Cygnus X1
-
E1 5b 2
84Meeting People... *7c **1
85For When Europe Falls *7c ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull