Clifton Crag

Climbs 82 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Warm, dry, and sunny crag with good views over the Lakes and the Solway coast. Climbing is steep.

Approach notes
DO NOT ask for permission to climb at the farm before climbing. Please do not disturb the owner. Keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. BIRD BAN: In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.

From most areas, the best approach is via the A710, S from Dumfries. 1.5mi N of the car park at Sandyhills Bay there is an narrow lane on the R (W) and some outcrops can be seen on the hillside to the N. The lane is signed variously to Southwick Cemetery, Nether Clifton and Clifton Farm. Follow the lane for about 1 mile to a small lay-by on the L just past Upper Clifton Farm, which is itself just beyond the cemetery.

A granite stile leads into a field. Walk straight across this (wellies advised), just to the left of the new farm buildings, to an angle in the far wall. A second stile is hidden some 15m to the right.

Cross the next field (keeping an eye out for the bull that sometimes lurks there) to a gate in the far corner, under Hollowstones Wall. [thanks Stephen Reid for info]

Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2SideshootVS 4b 114
3SideshowE1 5b 17
4SidekickHS 4b *130
5AquilineE1 5b 17
6Jeune EcoleS 4b **242
7OvergroundS 4b *107
8OutcastHVS 5a 17
9InfillE1 5b 3
10Hollowstones chimneyHS 4a *33
12GramercyS 4a *31
13Dirl ChimneyVS 4c ***201
14Monkey BusinessHVS 5a 12
15LemurE3 6a *2
16Gibbon in WonderlandVS 5a **75
17Blazing ApostlesE1 5b **29
18Tour de ForceVS 4c **73
19Owl CaveD 9
21The SuckerE1 5a 1
22LipstickHS 4b *32
23Stiff Upper LipS 4a *29
24Lip Service DirectVS 5a 12
25HotlipsVS 4c **48
26LabrumE1 5a *10
28Long EarsHS 4b 12
29Le TourVD 1
30Le CoinVD 2
31Easy StreetVS 4b  
32Bright EyesVS 4c 2
33Long Ears/Liplet Direct combinationVS 4c **19
34LipletS 4b **62
35Ratten's RestHVS 5b *25
36Wall StreetE1 5b ***109
37The GrooveVS 4c 25
38Novice CrackVS 4b *25
39Kenny's ChimneyVS 4b *10
40The AreteE2 5b ***46
41Elders CrackVS 4b *84
42Muckle KnobVD 12
43The EsplanadeD 11
44PegusesHS 4b 6
45Red SlabVS 5a 10
46D.I.Y.HVS 5a *16
47ToddamundoE4 6a **1
48NebulaE1 5b 5
49CrosswiresE1 5b 3
50FingerlustE4 6a ***8
51Dulce CourHVS * 
53Horner CornerVD 8
54Crawl WallVS 4c *13
55WiggleHVS 5b *9
56The DirectHVS 5a *19
57CrackshotHVS 5a *10
58RevolverE1 5b *9
59BulletHVS 5a 10
60Twin CracksVS 4b **59
61Clifton PinnacleS 4a 4
63The PinnaclesS 4a 5
64Essence of GiraffeE1 5c  
65Beyond the TerminatorE3 6a **2
66MoonshineE2 5c ***10
67The SlashHVS 5a **17
68SlashshineE1 5b **7
69Jugular VeinE1 5b ***46
70Loneliness of the long distance runnerE4 6a  
71Little WallE1 5a 2
72Crack upHS 4a 5
73SunsetVS 4c *5
74The CornerD 1
76Gorilla WarfareVS 5a *2
77Piece of CakeVS 4c **3
79Quarter Knifef6B+ 1
80Knife Directf7A 1
81Knife Partyf7C ** 
82Half Knifef7B * 
83Study Breakf6B *1
84Traumaf7B+ * 
85Wall Problemf7B  
86Paul's Dynof6B+ *** 
87Zillion Dollar Sadistf8A+ ** 
88Trauma Wallf7C+  
89Dwarf Cave Traversef6B  
906 Inchesf6A  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Visited this surprisingly good crag on a day trip from Newcastle. Closer than half of the Lakes and better than half of the County. Unless I've improved massively overnight, the grades are of the 'sympathetic' variety. The bracken is unpleasant, so do your walking on the top.
Richard Alderton - 16/Apr/12
A nice crag, think along the lines of Rivelin or similar in the Peak. Some great routes but the grading really needs sorting out - when the guide says something is easy for the grade, think easy for the grade below that given, i.e. easy E1 is really easy HVS! Good for breaking into leading at a particular grade though.
Bob - 04/May/09
Excellent for a day out. Dirl Chimney is well worth its three-stars! Heading to Twin Cracks Buttress? We found it easier to walk along the top of the crag from Hollowstones Wall and descend (walk) immediately from above the farm house. The path along the bottom of the crag is lost in brambles and bracken at the present (16/07/2006).
K Wall - 17/Jul/06
Great place 2 learn to lead. Fantastic short routes on excellent rock with easy gear placements. Check out the Dirl Chimney (VS 4c ***).
camw - 29/Dec/05
Worth a visit. Some excellent middle grade routes and new bouldering developments. Go and do Wall Street....
GCW - 17/Oct/02