Clifton Crag Dumfries and Galloway, SCOTLAND
Climbs 81 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW
Warm, dry, and sunny crag with good views over the Lakes and the Solway coast. Climbing is steep.
DO NOT ask for permission to climb at the farm before climbing. Please do not disturb the owner. Keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. BIRD BAN: In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.
From most areas, the best approach is via the A710, S from Dumfries. 1.5mi N of the car park at Sandyhills Bay there is an narrow lane on the R (W) and some outcrops can be seen on the hillside to the N. The lane is signed variously to Southwick Cemetery, Nether Clifton and Clifton Farm. Follow the lane for about 1 mile to a small lay-by on the L just past Upper Clifton Farm, which is itself just beyond the cemetery.
A granite stile leads into a field. Walk straight across this (wellies advised), just to the left of the new farm buildings, to an angle in the far wall. A second stile is hidden some 15m to the right.
Cross the next field (keeping an eye out for the bull that sometimes lurks there) to a gate in the far corner, under Hollowstones Wall. [thanks Stephen Reid for info]
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Bouldering in Scotland (2008), Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk
Visited this surprisingly good crag on a day trip from Newcastle. Closer than half of the Lakes and better than half of the County. Unless I've improved massively overnight, the grades are of the 'sympathetic' variety. The bracken is unpleasant, so do your walking on the top.|
Richard Alderton - 16/Apr/12
A nice crag, think along the lines of Rivelin or similar in the Peak. Some great routes but the grading really needs sorting out - when the guide says something is easy for the grade, think easy for the grade below that given, i.e. easy E1 is really easy HVS! Good for breaking into leading at a particular grade though.
Bob - 04/May/09
Excellent for a day out. Dirl Chimney is well worth its three-stars!
Heading to Twin Cracks Buttress? We found it easier to walk along the top of the crag from Hollowstones Wall and descend (walk) immediately from above the farm house. The path along the bottom of the crag is lost in brambles and bracken at the present (16/07/2006).
K Wall - 17/Jul/06
Great place 2 learn to lead. Fantastic short routes on excellent rock with easy gear placements. Check out the Dirl Chimney (VS 4c ***).
camw - 29/Dec/05
Worth a visit. Some excellent middle grade routes and new bouldering developments. Go and do Wall Street....
GCW - 17/Oct/02