Climbs 82
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Evening cloud inversion on the Solway seen from Clifton Crag, Dumfries-shire © Stephen Reid - Needle Sports

Crag features

Warm, dry, and sunny crag with good views over the Lakes and the Solway coast. Climbing is steep.

Approach notes

DO NOT ask for permission to climb at the farm before climbing. Please do not disturb the owner. Keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. BIRD BAN: In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.

From most areas, the best approach is via the A710, S from Dumfries. 1.5mi N of the car park at Sandyhills Bay there is an narrow lane on the R (W) and some outcrops can be seen on the hillside to the N. The lane is signed variously to Southwick Cemetery, Nether Clifton and Clifton Farm. Follow the lane for about 1 mile to a small lay-by on the L just past Upper Clifton Farm, which is itself just beyond the cemetery.

A granite stile leads into a field. Walk straight across this (wellies advised), just to the left of the new farm buildings, to an angle in the far wall. A second stile is hidden some 15m to the right.

Cross the next field (keeping an eye out for the bull that sometimes lurks there) to a gate in the far corner, under Hollowstones Wall. [thanks Stephen Reid for info]

Visited this surprisingly good crag on a day trip from Newcastle. Closer than half of the Lakes and better than half of the County. Unless I've improved massively overnight, the grades are of the 'sympathetic' variety. The bracken is unpleasant, so do your walking on the top.
Richard Alderton - 16/Apr/12
A nice crag, think along the lines of Rivelin or similar in the Peak. Some great routes but the grading really needs sorting out - when the guide says something is easy for the grade, think easy for the grade below that given, i.e. easy E1 is really easy HVS! Good for breaking into leading at a particular grade though.
Bob - 04/May/09
Excellent for a day out. Dirl Chimney is well worth its three-stars! Heading to Twin Cracks Buttress? We found it easier to walk along the top of the crag from Hollowstones Wall and descend (walk) immediately from above the farm house. The path along the bottom of the crag is lost in brambles and bracken at the present (16/07/2006).
K Wall - 17/Jul/06
Great place 2 learn to lead. Fantastic short routes on excellent rock with easy gear placements. Check out the Dirl Chimney (VS 4c ***).
camw - 29/Dec/05
Worth a visit. Some excellent middle grade routes and new bouldering developments. Go and do Wall Street....
GCW - 17/Oct/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Hollostones Wall 
2SideshootVS 4b 117
3SideshowE1 5b 17
4SidekickHS 4b *134
E1 5b 17
6Jeune EcoleS 4b **249
S 4b *113
HVS 5a 19
9InfillE1 5b 3
10Hollowstones chimneyHS 4a *35
 Dirl Chimney Area 
12GramercyS 4a *32
13Dirl ChimneyVS 4c ***209
14Monkey Business
HVS 5a 12
E3 6a *2
16Gibbon in Wonderland
VS 5a **75
17Blazing ApostlesE1 5b **29
18Tour de Force
VS 4c **76
19Owl Cave
D 9
 Jigsaw Buttress 
21The Sucker
E1 5a 1
HS 4b *33
23Stiff Upper Lip
S 4a *29
24Lip Service Direct
VS 5a 14
25HotlipsVS 4c **49
E1 5a *10
 Main Wall 
28Long Ears
HS 4b 12
29Le Tour
VD 1
30Le Coin
VD 2
31Easy Street
VS 4b  
32Bright Eyes
VS 4c 2
33Long Ears/Liplet Direct combination
VS 4c **19
S 4b **63
35Ratten's Rest
HVS 5b *25
36Wall Street
E1 5b ***110
37The Groove
VS 4c 26
38Novice CrackVS 4b *30
39Kenny's ChimneyVS 4b *10
40The Arete
E2 5b ***47
41Elders Crack
VS 4b *89
42Muckle Knob
VD 12
43The EsplanadeD 11
44PegusesHS 4b 6
45Red Slab
VS 5a 10
46D.I.Y.HVS 5a *16
47ToddamundoE4 6a **1
E1 5b 5
E1 5b 3
E4 6a ***8
51Dulce CourHVS * 
 Twin Cracks Buttress 
53Horner Corner
VD 8
54Crawl Wall
VS 4c *13
HVS 5b *9
56The DirectHVS 5a *19
57CrackshotHVS 5a *10
E1 5b *9
HVS 5a 10
60Twin CracksVS 4b **60
61Clifton Pinnacle
S 4a 4
 Jugular Vein Buttress 
63The Pinnacles
S 4a 5
64Essence of Giraffe
E1 5c  
65Beyond the Terminator
E3 6a **2
66MoonshineE2 5c ***10
67The Slash
HVS 5a **18
E1 5b **7
69Jugular Vein
E1 5b ***47
70Loneliness of the long distance runnerE4 6a  
71Little Wall
E1 5a 2
72Crack up
HS 4a 5
VS 4c *5
74The CornerD 1
 Little Clifton 
76Gorilla Warfare
VS 5a *2
77Piece of Cake
VS 4c **3
79Quarter Knifef6B+ 1
80Knife Directf7A 1
81Knife Partyf7C ** 
82Half Knifef7B * 
83Study Breakf6B *1
f7B+ * 
85Wall Problemf7B  
86Paul's Dynof6B+ *** 
87Zillion Dollar Sadistf8A+ ** 
88Trauma Wallf7C+  
89Dwarf Cave Traversef6B  
906 Inchesf6A  

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