Climbs 97
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 994m a.s.l
Faces N

Y Gribin in the rain - Why would you want to be anywhere else? © Migsy

Crag features

Clean, rough rock of excellent quality. Good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres.

Approach notes

From beside Llyn Bochlwyd, after the steep approacg to the Cwm, the cliff can be seen amongst the high surrounding ridges. Avoid the steep screes below the cliff by making use ofthe track to Bwlch Tryfan and cutting across the hillside.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ogwen (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Out of print:
Penglog buttress ??
Sy Finch - 10/Jan/12
Would like to add Penglog Buttress
Neil Watson - 24/Aug/11
Sorry - meant 620 metres - by the contour lines
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
Altitude unknown? Is is not 994 metres?
glyn28 - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 -- 
2Glyder Fach Summit
-
summit 915
3Bristly Ridge
-
1 ***773
4Bristly RidgeII 2/3 ***211
5Nant BochlwydI/II *5
6The Chasm Face
-
3 ***80
7Shark Buttress
-
3 ***32
 Penglog Buttress 
9Firebird Ridge
-
VD 1
10Balti Blues
-
S 4a 4
11Balti Boulevard
-
VD 3
 East Buttress 
13Square ChimneyS  
14Square Chimney ButtressS 1
15Square Chimney ButtressV 6 *2
16Dancing QueenIV 5 *6
17Honey, HoneyIV 5 * 
18Mama MiaIV 5 * 
19Oblique Buttress DirectVS 4c  
20Oblique ButtressS *11
21Oblique GullyVD 1
22QuixoteE4 6a **2
23GryngoletHVS 5a  
24Errant RouteS 4a  
25Arch GullyD  
26Arch Gully (Winter)
-
V 6 ***10
27Out to Lunch
-
E3 5c *1
28Slab RouteVD **38
29The Spiral VariantD 6
30Arch ChimneyHS 4b  
31Arch Chimney (Winter)V 6 **2
32Main Gully
-
1 **59
33Main Gully
-
III 3/4 *27
34Main Gully Ridge
-
3 ***47
35Direct RouteVS 4c ***381
36The Winter FinishVD 7
37Gibson's Chimney
-
VS 4c 13
38Brown's CornerHVS 5b  
39The Tombstone CrackHS 4b * 
40The Left-Hand CrackVS 5a *6
41The Right-Hand CrackHVS 5b *14
42Hodgkin's VariationS *14
43Deviation
-
E1 5c **3
44Glyder Crack
-
E6 6b **1
45KayaE7 6b **1
46The Watchtower
-
E3 5c *3
47Lot's WifeVS 5a **77
48Lot's GrooveHVS 5b ***104
49Chasm RouteVD **149
50Corkscrew CrackS 1
51Chasm CrackVS 4c 3
52Chasm RibS *1
53Senile Saunter
-
E3 5c **1
54Chasm ChimneyD 4
55Girdle Traverse of East ButtressHS  
56Main Gully RidgeM 7
57The Upper SectionIII 1
 Alphabet Slabs 
59AlphaVS 4b *52
60BetaM 20
61GammaS 4a *113
62DeltaD *50
63Omega
-
S 3
64East Gully ArÍteD 57
65East GullyS 2
 Gable Buttress 
67Close To MeE3 6a *1
68Get CloseHVS 5a **14
69Hyndsight
-
E4 6a **3
70The Hollow Men
-
E2 5c *2
 Hawks Nest Buttress 
72Hawk SlabVD  
73The Last PretenderE2 5c * 
74Hawk's Nest ArÍteVS 4c ***77
75Slim ChanceE1 5c *3
76Hawk's Nest ButtressS 4b *28
77Hawks Nest Buttress Scramble
-
3S  
78Needle's Eye ClimbVD *9
79Shark Pinnacle
-
M 7
80Groove Route
-
M  
 Little Buttress 
82Back DoorVD  
83Wristy Business
-
E3 5c * 
84Little ButtressS 1
85Lower Dolmen Rib
-
D 1
 Dolmen Buttres 
87Route IID **9
88Route IIV 6 ***1
89Druid RouteS  
90Route 1VD  
91Dolmen RidgeM ***227
 West Buttress 
93Central Gully
-
II/III *25
94SidewalkVD  
95Intermitten Gully
-
M  
96Hyperbolic Slab
-
M  
97Gully of the WindsI 5
 Castell y Gwynt 
99Castell y Gwynt
-
summit 50
100Lila's Chocolate FeastIII 4 *1
101Col Gully
-
I 23

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