Climbs 97
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 450m a.s.l

Long way above the last bolt © mr mills

Crag features

Five minutes' walk (if that) from the road. Many pleasant slab routes at E2-E4, with sparse bolts (4 bolts in 25m). Also some worrying lower-grade trad routes: rock and finishes may be loose or fragile.

Approach notes

Mind the fence after parking on the roundabout.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  15 February - 30 April. Reason - Nesting Birds

Ravens nest directly above the routes Hasta La Vista Baby and Race Against The Pump. All three routes on Jenga Buttress on the Upper Levels are also restricted as they are level with and directly opposite the nest- Bish Bash Bosch, Bosch Stop Quarry, and Jenga.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
The first bolt on Septuagenarian is now missing but you can use a small cam just above this if required.
jeff - 19/May/13
Had a nervous lower-off after seconding Septuagenarian this weekend. Had heard the right-hand lower-off bolt was quite loose, but the left-hand one also wobbled a millimetre or so...
dgb - 14/May/12
From: chilli07 Climb: Septuagenarian overhang still has alot of loose rock on it and some sharp bits ... o, and my mates blood!!! the first bolt just past this is loose, didnt have a wrench to fix it so be aware
remus - 12/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 bus stop wall 
2First Stop5a 724
3Septuagenarian6a *830
4mud slide slim/Ferrero RocheHS 4a 205
5Whizz Bang6c *253
 Equinox Wall 
7GuillotineHVS 4c *78
8Wusty WoofE1 5c 24
9Fool's GoldE1 5c **1631
101000 Tons of Chicken ShitE5 6a *58
11Scare CityE6 6a **46
12Raisin Frumpsnoot7b+ *32
13Forsinain Motspur7c **31
14Forsinain Motspur Direct7c+ **1
15Forsinain Motspur Superdirect8a **1
16Beltane7b **102
17SolsticeHVS 5a **1380
18Solstice DirectE2 5c 77
19EquinoxVS 4c **1481
20Equinox DirectE1 5a *2
21Sterling SilverE2 5c **324
22Demolition DerbyE1 5a 9
23Bus Stop traverse R - Lf6C+ *3
24Bus Stop Traverse basicf5+ 3
25Bus Stop Traverse Finishf6B+ 2
26Dwr Daif6A+ *1
27Dwr Dai Lefthandf6A 1
28Little Aretef6A 1
 upper level 
30The Big Easy4a 211
31Jagged Face4a 212
32Finatic6c 26
33Jenga4a 167
34Bosch Stop Quarry6a+ 174
35Bish Bash Bosch6a+ 172
36Comfort Zone5c 298
 Macho Wall and Rippled Slab 
38Hasta La Vista Baby
-
E3 6a *4
39Race Against the Pump
-
7b **4
40Shoreline7c+ **1
41Geordie War Cry7a+ ***56
42Mildly MachoE5 6b ** 
 the rippled slab 
44Scarlet RunnerE4 5c ***141
45Scarlet Runner DirectE3 5c *52
46(unamed)V 6  
47Virgin on the RidiculousE4 6a *23
48MassambulaE2 5b **370
49MeltdownE4 6a *15
50Walking OutE5 6b *2
51Gnat AttackE1 5c **927
52Blue HorizonS 5
53BreakdanceVS 4a 5
54Crossville
-
E4 6a 2
 butterfly slab 
56SkittlesV3 9
57The Casual PlanHVS 5b *7
58Casual ManE1 5b ***18
59Tiny Little ElephantsHS 4a **15
60Tiny little elephants (areteless eliminate)V0+ *3
61Nose Bleed SectionE4 6a **6
62Lepidopteristf7A **1
 the short stuff 
64My Hovercraft is full of Eels6b+ *80
65Mini Bus Stop5c 116
66Fridge6b+ 25
67Freezer6b+ 42
 short stuff bouldering 
69Yee-haaf6B+ 1
70Fridge freezerf6A 1
71The flakes of wrathf4+ 1
72Too wide for wide boyzf5 1
73Lay off Prof!f5 *1
74Crab slabf6C *1
75Tobleronef3 1
76Slot machinef6A *1
 lone tree hole 
78So This is Living
-
E2 5a  
79Malice In WonderlandE2 5b 1
80As The Sun Sets In The West
-
E4 5c  
81Wond
-
VS 4c 1
 blast shelter crag 
83Brazilianf6A 1
84Captain flash hardf6A *1
85Down and out.f6A+ 1
86Heraldryf5+ 1
87Heraldry directf5 1
88Not now darlingf6A 1
89Lost chancesf6B+ 1
90Pop to the topf6A 1
91Don't stop till you've poppedf6C 1
92Layback groovef3 *1
93Gladiatorf7A **1
94Biggles Flies UndoneE1 5b *197
95Reclaim Your MindE3 5c *1
96Stand to your Rights
-
VS 4c 6
97Silent Hammering
-
E2 6a 1
98The Heather PullXS 1
 unsorted/don't know where they are? 
100Slap stixV1 **12
101Scul p1f5+ 1
102Scul p2f6A+ 1
103Scul p3f6B+ 1
104A question of sanity *f6A+ 1
105Greenstone traverse *f6A+ 1
106Small not tall *f3 1
107The big one *f7A 1
108Reverso traverso *f7A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies