Wyndcliffe

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 181m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
It's actually called "Wynd Cliff"

Limestone, somewhat loose and dirty, albeit with a few good routes. The popular lines suffer from polish. Parts of crag destined to be engulfed by vegetation. Single pitch routes to 40 metres. Descent most conveniently by abseil off trees.

Access notes
From Chepstow, take the A466 past the race course and then the village of St Arwans. Park at the Forestry Comission Car Park on the R. Do NOT take the side road on the L sign-posted `Wyndcliffe' - this does not lead to the crag. From the old quarry opposite the car park the crag can be reached by foot in 10 minutes.

Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT-HAND CRAG  
2StrikeHS 4b *151
3Strike DirectVS 4c *25
4HostageVS 4c 10
5Pinnacle GroovesVS 4c 8
6Pinnacle RouteVS 4c *35
7MonsoonS 4a *209
8Monsoon-Pinnacle RouteVS 4c **29
9SkyjackHVS 4c  
10SyrphusS 4a 3
11CentinonHVS 4c 2
12ExpoS 4a 2
13Umbo D'JingoVS 4c 1
14StarfinderVS 4c 2
15Press the Panic ButtonE1 5a  
16MustangHVS 5a 5
17The CrackS 4a/b *86
18PapillonHS 4b **219
19SundownerE2 5b 14
20MercuryE4 6a *2
21The DonE2 5c **109
22JezebelE3 5b  
23Piercefield GroovesE2 5b 8
24SinewHVS 5a **228
25Aerial CombatE3 5c 4
26FibreVS 4c **252
27Purple HazeE2 5b 2
28Green SymphonyHS 4a 23
29Brown CodaVS 4a  
30Left Wing GirdleVS  
 RIGHT-HAND CRAG  
32The GullyVD 23
33LyonHS 4b 3
34TrialHVS 5a *54
35Old SmokeyHVS 4c 2
36MeccaE3 6a *31
37SuncrushHVS 5b **162
38ElanE3 5c 19
39CadillacVS 4c ***277
40PilgrimageE2 5c *25
41QuestorVS 4b ***447
42ChristianE2 5b 1
43AndreaE3 5c 4
44PhoenixHVS 5a 50
45ZuluE2 5c **115
46Edge of InsanityE4 5c  
47The FirebirdE1 5a *94
48President RaygunE4 5c 2
49DecoyS 4a 1
50WyvernVS 4b  
51Tizer GroovesVS 4b 1
52StingVS 4b  
53ApricotE1 5b  
54VanguardVS 4c *62
55Collapse PointE1 5b 3
56What's Gone Is GoneE3 5c  
57ShaftE2 5c **42
58KluteHVS 4c **111
59Blood BankE3 5c  
60TransfusionE1 5a 2
61CardiacVS 4c *107
62Close to the EdgeVS 4b  
63Every Trick in the BookE2 5c  
64The Day of the TriffidsHVS 5a  
65ViolaterE2 5c  
66Vanguard PinnacleE1 5a 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
poor consultation made with guidebook is my excuse. started suncrush and then trended right up the obviously well chalked cracks beneath the route to finish up cadillac. What has this link up been named?
alan rosier - 11/May/14
A fairly large bit of rock came off Fibre this Saturday (11/01/14). Near the top of the Climb - just above where you traverse right to finish. It seemed to all be a bit loose in this area so be careful!
Jen Booys - 14/Jan/14
WARNING about the route Shaft E2 5c on the left-hand crag: the small yew right on the edge at the top of Shaft could be used for a hanging belay and abseil, but it's not particularly comfy or convenient, and the more natural choice is the larger yew a few metres upslope. Unfortunately, abseil ropes from the latter run over or past a huge, loosely embedded rock. Our solution was to run the abseil ropes around the left side (facing in) of the clifftop yew, although this did entail starting the abseil through foliage. Another option is to belay from the upper yew; then traverse (carefully) to a large tree on the right to abseil.
bpmclimb - 14/Aug/13
The yew at the top of Fibre is coming away from the cliff. It may not survive too many more climbers pulling on it to assist the exit moves. It is not a reliable abseil anchor. It is backed up from above, but the rope runs up steep vegetated ground to a distant tree: in order to check this attachment is ok you would have to escape the system. Recommended: abseil from large tree a short and easy traverse away to the right (facing in).
bpmclimb - 03/Feb/12
Like the below comment says there has been some rock fall and the second yew tree that's refereed to in the guide book has now fallen over as a result. Doesn't hinder any of the climbing as far I can tell but makes it harder working out where you are if you don't know about it. Also I think the VDiff climb called "The Gully," has become vastly over grown.
ElBarto - 21/Aug/11
As of the cold winter of early 2010 there appear to have been a few rockfalls, I'm not a regular to this crag so not entirely sure, but they look fresh and there are plenty of loose holds here and there. There is a very large scar on the RH crag near Cadillac, and the resulting block destroyed one of the yew trees; also some looseness occasionally noticeable even on well-trodden classics like Questor. It seems fine (even to me who can be quite paranoid about such things)... but exercise caution!
Stone Muppet - 02/Mar/10
Climbed here yesterday and had a great day, doing great routes, Fibre is fantastic even if it gets a little scrappy at the top. A word of warning for all routes here...they are long and eat up a lot of runners (due to lots of placements), so add extenders to your rack and then a few more then some more...
stevethomas - 01/Aug/09
Paid a visit here last night (first time for nearly 20 years) and was pleasantly surprised at how clean the lines are now - years ago even Questor was a bit loose dirty and overgrown. Lots to go for on both sides of the crag, but watch the rock - theres a lot of accident potential here from hollow/loose holds and gear placements. Regarding getting down, we decided to just walk off down the "ladders" - actually a nice new set of steps. Much quicker, easier and safer for those below than trying to abseil here. Saw a lot of rock getting knocked down by peeps abseiling or just moving around at the top of some of the most popular pitches, and the ropes can get stuck pretty easily on some of the abseils. Also many of the traditional abseil trees (which are also the best belays) are now dead. All that said, a very worthwhile crag with its own style - we'll be back soon!
richtea21 - 25/Jun/09
Pleasantly surprised by Wyndcliffe. Did Sinew and The Don, and crag is well worth the visit for these two routes. Both v well protected and on mostly good rock.
Owen W-G - 18/Mar/09
Middle flake under the over hang has fallen off Strike .. probably best to take the direct approach (4c in the guide) as the original traverse left now looks a tad technical for an HS route.
Dax - 25/Jun/08
There has been a large rockfall on Cadillac, just above where you step back right to enter the final groove. It doesn't affect the route at all, but it has taken out the yew tree at the bottom!
dave657 - 09/Jun/08
Chris is not wrong. As a first-year leader and new to Wyndcliffe, I climbed Papillon, (40m HS 4b) on Saturday; took plenty of nuts and hexes but only 10 extenders. I found the route to be long, steep and sustained, much more so than anything encountered before, and requiring a lot of protection. Most of my extenders had gone before half way and I was using anchor slings, prusik cord, dyneema hex-loops, chalk-bag cord with screw-gate, HMS and nut-key crabs to eke out my gear. (Near the top I found myself at one point committed to a move on a tenuous-looking spike, close to my limit on tiring arms, observing the nut by my ankles jump out, leaving me approx 6 metres above the last piece of protection - a definite Brown Trousers Moment). The grade and guide did not prepare me for this. A summer of climbing at Stanage, Froggatt, Holyhead Mountain, Llanberis, Avon Gorge and Wye Valley had led me to expect 30 metres of mainly easy climbing with a few testing sections rather than steep, hard moves all the way . I am learning about the differences in grades and guide book descriptions between crags and this route was a real jump up the learning curve. It is a great crag though, and I'll be back on Papillon this weekend (with several suitcases full of extenders) to properly appreciate the experience and without having to change my underwear quite so often.
Humpty Dangler - 11/Sep/07
It is worth taking a few more nuts and quickdraws than usual since the routes are quite long for single pitch routes. The two routes we did were quite hard for the grade, but very good quality. I'll be back to find out whether all of the routes are like that!
Chris Sansum - 29/Aug/07
It's quite clear from the routes I've done (all on the left hand crag), bit loose in places though.
thomasadixon - 01/Aug/07
Many routes on Wyndcliffe have been lost to vegetation in recent years, especially on the Left hand crag. Some of these are good routes, having climbed many of them in earlier years. The crag was originally dug out of the vegetation in the 1970's so could we form a group of climbers to clean up the crag - we are talking of brambles and ivy here not rare plants.
colin Beechey - 31/May/05
I climed here (April 2005) on Left hand crag which is the less visited, worth it for the routes that are available (not overgrown) Mostly S - VS. Only managed Monsoon (S), before being rained off! some lose rock to watch out for as some of the climbs are little used. This would also be no use for bigger groups as there is not enough climbing, but makes a nice day out for a small group.
frostyone - 14/Apr/05
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These details were last updated on 28/Nov/2011

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