Mostly single-pitch routes up to 130ft, with some ferociously hard ones. Most of the good routes are short and hard, such as Midnight Express (E1 5b), Devil's Meridian (E2 5c) and Bermuda Wall (E3 5c).
Tidal, accessible three hours either side of low tide.
>From the car park at St Levan Church (SW 381 223) turn L then walk back up the road for a few hundred m to the first houses. Take the footpath leading R towards the coast path. At the junction turn R and walk to the large boulders, and go L down a path to a leaning slab past a through-cave.
|1||Bermuda Wall||E3 5c ***||18|
|2||Devil's Meridian||E2 5c **||19|
|3||Midnight Express||E1 5b **||32|
|6||Seamstress||E2 6a *||1|
|11||Sea Pink Slab||VD||5|
|12||Magaphone Chimney||S 4a|
|13||Gentleman's Relish||S 4a||2|
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|The path down to the through cave is very obvious and about 50m long. After that it's less obvious so make sure you start descending the grassy ramp soon, down a 2m chimney to easier scrambling. The approach with the "bad step" across the corner is quite an easy escape at low tide, but maybe not a good descent on a first visit.|
Fiend - 11/Jul/15
|The guidebook description (and the description on here mention a path). Although the through cave formed by the slab is distinctive, there's not really a path down to it, just a short vegetated slope. There is a smaller path running back left from the main footpath, but you have to ignore it and drop down lower. This has confused several people (including us on our first visit).|
bpmclimb - 30/Apr/13