Climbs 50 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude Tidal – Faces SW

Crag features
Mostly single-pitch routes up to 130ft, with some ferociously hard ones. Most of the good routes are short and hard, such as Midnight Express (E1 5b), Devil's Meridian (E2 5c) and Bermuda Wall (E3 5c).

Approach notes
Tidal, accessible three hours either side of low tide.

>From the car park at St Levan Church (SW 381 223) turn L then walk back up the road for a few hundred m to the first houses. Take the footpath leading R towards the coast path. At the junction turn R and walk to the large boulders, and go L down a path to a leaning slab past a through-cave.

West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Chair Ladder and the South Coast (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Bermuda WallE3 5c ***19
2Devil's MeridianE2 5c **20
3Midnight ExpressE1 5b **32
4GeriatricS 4a 15
5ZipVS 4c 12
6SeamstressE2 6a *1
7RedfishHVS 5a 6
8PhenocrystHVS 5a 12
9The MinstrelD 4
10GeriatricS 4a 2
11Sea Pink SlabVD 5
12Magaphone ChimneyS 4a  
13Gentleman's RelishS 4a 2
14marconi crackD 7
15permanendoHS 4a 2
16megaphone chimneyS 4a 3
17falling apart at the seamsHS 4b 1
18devils meridianE2 5c **2
19panosHS 4b 4
20LayawayS 4a 3
21BandwagonE1 5b 4
22Crack-a-goo-gooE2 5b 2
23JamaicaE3 6a 1
24ButtonsS 4a *1
25MacbateE2 5b 1
26JackE1 5b 1
27Smoked SalmonE1 5b 1
28Lost for WordsE1 5b 1
29Spot the difference *VS 4b 1
30Video Breaks *E2 5c 1
31False Illusions *E2 5c 1
32The other one *E3 6a 1
33Chicken Run *E5 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The path down to the through cave is very obvious and about 50m long. After that it's less obvious so make sure you start descending the grassy ramp soon, down a 2m chimney to easier scrambling. The approach with the "bad step" across the corner is quite an easy escape at low tide, but maybe not a good descent on a first visit.
Fiend - 11/Jul/15
The guidebook description (and the description on here mention a path). Although the through cave formed by the slab is distinctive, there's not really a path down to it, just a short vegetated slope. There is a smaller path running back left from the main footpath, but you have to ignore it and drop down lower. This has confused several people (including us on our first visit).
bpmclimb - 30/Apr/13