Climbs 83
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Tony versus Mexican Pete (VS) © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Far from the madding commercialism of Land's End, if not physically. Some looseness in cracks and chimneys. Mostly single- and multi-pitch routes up to 130ft, grades below E1 but with some good harder ones.

Approach notes

Tidal on Lower Cliff and Helmet Buttress. Non-tidal on Green Face.

>From Land's End, follow the coast path to the SE for 0.75mi along the cliffs to a path leading out on the headland's crest.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKs most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxs award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKs most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Slightly tricky downclimb on the approach to The Lower Cliffon The Trough, just after The Squeeze. May be advisable to protect novice climbers.
Skip - 22/Sep/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sloose Zawn 
2On the Loose
-
S 4a  
3Loose Feelings
-
HS 4b  
4Through the Looking-Glass
-
VD  
5Smear on Sight
-
E4 5c  
6Step on a Cloud
-
E3 5c  
7Empty City
-
E1 5b  
8Eye of the Owl
-
HVS 5a  
9Star Turn
-
E3 5c  
 Main Area - Longships Ridge 
11Slagroom
-
S 4a 8
12Loco Parentis
-
E1 5b 7
13The Harp
-
VS 5a 3
14Chopper Chimney
-
VD  
 Main Area - The Amphitheatre 
16Little Trapeze
-
VS 5a 2
17Little Trapeze Right-hand
-
VD  
18Exit Climb
-
D 1
19Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 5a 1
20Halfway House
-
HS 4b 1
21Full House
-
S 4a  
22Lesser Known Tunisians
-
S 4b 1
23Big Ned
-
VD 1
24One Inch Rock
-
S 4a 13
25Whisky
-
VD  
26Mr Married Goes for a Hike
-
HVS 5a  
27Tower Direct
-
HS 4b 2
28Twist Again Like Moira Did Last Summer
-
HVS 5a  
 Main Area - The Lower Cliff 
30Economist's ClimbVD *77
31Racing Line
-
E6 6b  
32A Pocket Full of Crystals
-
E3 5b 1
33A Pocket Full of Quartz
-
HVS 4c 2
34Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
HVS 5b  
35Little CrackerS 4a 10
36Nut Route
-
S 4a 57
37Swiss Route
-
HS 4b 9
38Towerful
-
VS 4c 2
39VietnamericaE1 5b 57
40Zeke's RouteHS 4b **136
41King Crab Crack
-
VS 4c 4
42Stone BoomE2 5c **67
43Telegraph Road
-
E3 6a *2
44Cable Highway
-
E4 6b 1
45Biceps Wall
-
VS 5a 4
46Muscle Chimney
-
HS 4b 2
47Sea FuryHVS 5b *33
48Immaculate AreteE4 6a ***23
49Immaculate Arete (direct start)
-
E4 6a ***2
50New Editions
-
E4 6b 1
51CainE4 6a ***19
52Nothing MuchHVS 5b *40
53FriendsVS 5a *44
54Wrist ClimbHVD *57
55Bubble Wall
-
E5 6b 5
56Bubble Wall (direct start)
-
E6 6c  
57Pop!
-
E7 6c  
58Rubber Neck
-
E3 5c  
59Sin
-
VS 4c 7
60Love Drives Me Crazy
-
VS 4c  
61Dpchez-Vous
-
VS 5a  
62Ruby Nails
-
E3 5c *6
 Helmet Buttress 
64Veedy
-
VS 4c *4
65Helmet Ridge Direct
-
VS 4b *10
66Saruman
-
HS 4b 1
67Gandalf
-
S 4a  
68Helmet Ridge
-
D 1
 The Green Face Area 
70Gig in the Sky
-
E2 5c *1
71Mr Haggis
-
HS 4b 6
72Ella-phant
-
E1 5b  
73Who Ya Gonna Call
-
E1 5b  
74Amigos
-
E4 5c  
75The Green Face
-
S 4a *24
76GringoVS 5a 2
77Mexican Pete
-
VS 4c *15
78Bingo
-
E2 5c 1
79Dago
-
VS 5a 1
80Mister Fixit
-
HVS 5a  
81Water-Man
-
S 4a  
82Sandman
-
E3 5c  
83Solar Explorer
-
E7 6b  
84A Job for Life
-
E1 5b  
85A Question of Time
-
E2 5c  
86Beelzebub's Boobs
-
E1 5b  
87Fragile Earth
-
E5 6b  
88The Economist
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VD ***4
89Granite Gorilla
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E5 6a ** 

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