Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Herron on Phil in the Gaps © Herron

Crag features

A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.
A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes

Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent. 

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right.

Restricted Access

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED RIGHT TO LEFT 
 Entry wall 
3Point of Principle5a 121
4Bigfoot5c 86
5Test of Time6b 11
6Hunker in the Bunker
-
6a 22
7Burning Embers6b 102
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *201
9Dispossessed6c **125
10Star Ship Troopers5c 170
11Irish Mist7a+ 16
12Dwarves' Dilemma
-
6b *45
13Phantom Menace
-
6a+ 11
14Clicking for Contraband6a 5
15Alter Ego5c 20
16Trojan Horse
-
6a 18
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 3
18Star Fighter
-
6a 2
 Lower Red Dust Wall 
20Mynydd Presili
-
6a+ 3
21Five Frogs On A Log4c 32
22Waltzing With Raptors
-
VS 4b  
23Anuta6b 12
24Dogs of Jaw
-
HVS 5a 5
25Cherry lips5c *11
26Dust Devil (1)5c 67
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 11
 Upper Red Dust Wall 
29Chossticks4c 8
30Megabyte5a 4
31Bad News for Druids
-
6a 12
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
-
6a+ *54
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 3
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite
-
6a *135
35Ammonite6b 59
36The Strange Attractor
-
HVS 5a 15
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *23
38No Woman, No Cry7c *10
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **16
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *25
41Man In Tears7b+ *31
42The Dead Vei7a+ *46
43Dust Devil (2)6b *205
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **50
45Eleventh Hour
-
7b+ 2
46The Last Temptation6c *4
47Sauropods6b+ *39
48Dust Buster
-
HVS 5b 8
 Strawberry Wall 
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 15
51Compact and Bijou6c 19
52Shake'n'Vac
-
6c *21
53Consumer Choice5c 16
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *73
55footloose5c 33
 The Crystal Towers 
57Diamonds and Dust
-
6b+ *49
58Broken Glass6b+ *61
 Jurassic Wall 
60Fate of Nations
-
E2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *33
62Raptor
-
6b **43
63just another rush6c+ *19
64Raving rostov
-
6b+ 3
65Full Stretch
-
6b 13
66Classic Jurassic
-
6b+ 7
 Sunnyside Wall 
68Target Practise6b+ 38
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *121
70Phil in the Gaps6a *239
71Rock Juggler6a+ 73
 Mesozoic Wall 
73Better than Nothing
-
4c  
74Only Just
-
4a  
75Just This One
-
6b  
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner Crack
-
HVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop
-
6b  
 Thirty Foot Wall 
79Dinomania6a+ 112
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 33
81Cool CymruVS 4b 11
82Dinofever
-
6a+ *182
83Humbolt3+ 233
84Hyperwar4c 214
85Hyperactive5c 167
86Just a Mo
-
5a 190
87Feline Groovy4a 197
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 8
89Home is where the URL is5a 169
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 176
91So, Graham Norton3+ 141
92Puffed Daddy4a 177
93Land of Hype and Glory5a 225
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c 160
95More Fluff than Stuff4a 69
96Sea of Change4a 143
97Ghetto Fabulous4a 146
98Box of Tricks4a 145
99Break Like the Wind
-
VS 4c 16
100Mojo Man4a 64
101Deja Vu
-
6b 135
102Crow6a 134
103Windoze4c 113
104Trilobite5a 110
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 4
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT 
 The Lunar Landscape 
108Terrific Triassics
-
6c 9
109Burning Issue
-
7a 2
110Bristol Cream
-
6c+ 2
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *1
112Supergirly6b 2
113Supersaurus 1
-
6a+  
114Supersaurus 2
-
5c  
115Supersaurus 3
-
4c  
 Gatecrasher Wall 
117Back from Beyond6a 29
118Top Cat6a+ *45
119Leaping Libidos
-
6a+ 47
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *8
122True Love6a+ 10
 Pine Tree Wall 
124Cupid's Arrow
-
6a 9
125Heart's Desire5a 10
126Virtual Reality4a 18
127Word Perfect
-
4c 31
128Candy Flip (1)
-
HVS 5a 5
129Vice or Virtue6b *14
130Candy Flip (2)5c 14
131Lakota (1)
-
VS 4c 11
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large
-
6a+ 15
133Karanga
-
6c 15
134Lakota (2)5c 9
135Creation4c 13
136Walk the Talk
-
VS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices
-
6b+ 2
138Misplaced Concerns
-
E2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 13
140Placebo6a 6
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 7
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex
-
6a  
143Raki
-
VS 5a 1
144Kamikaze
-
6b+ 1
145Tokyo Express
-
E2  
146Tora Tora Tora5c 4
147Man with No Friends
-
HVS 4b  
 Spanish Wall & New Labour Wall 
149Bastardo Gordo
-
6a+ 12
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 4
151Blair - Which Project?6b 3
 Chaos Wall 
153Chaos Crack
-
HVS 5a  
154Fractal
-
E1 5b  
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!
-
5c 5
157Prima Gravida
-
6a+ 3
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot
-
6b+ * 
159Shake 'n' Vac
-
6c *1
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil7b 1

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