Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Herron on Phil in the Gaps © Herron

Crag features

A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.
A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes

Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent. 

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right.

Restricted Access

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Entry wall 
3Point of Principle5a 121
4Bigfoot5c 86
5Test of Time6b 11
6Hunker in the Bunker
6a 22
7Burning Embers6b 102
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *201
9Dispossessed6c **125
10Star Ship Troopers5c 170
11Irish Mist7a+ 16
12Dwarves' Dilemma
6b *45
13Phantom Menace
6a+ 11
14Clicking for Contraband6a 5
15Alter Ego5c 20
16Trojan Horse
6a 18
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 3
18Star Fighter
6a 2
 Lower Red Dust Wall 
20Mynydd Presili
6a+ 3
21Five Frogs On A Log4c 31
22Waltzing With Raptors
VS 4b  
23Anuta6b 12
24Dogs of Jaw
HVS 5a 5
25Cherry lips5c *11
26Dust Devil (1)5c 67
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 11
 Upper Red Dust Wall 
29Chossticks4c 8
30Megabyte5a 4
31Bad News for Druids
6a 12
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
6a+ *54
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 3
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite
6a *135
35Ammonite6b 59
36The Strange Attractor
HVS 5a 15
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *22
38No Woman, No Cry7c *10
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **16
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *25
41Man In Tears7b+ *31
42The Dead Vei7a+ *46
43Dust Devil (2)6b *205
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **50
45Eleventh Hour
7b+ 2
46The Last Temptation6c *4
47Sauropods6b+ *39
48Dust Buster
HVS 5b 8
 Strawberry Wall 
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 14
51Compact and Bijou6c 19
6c *21
53Consumer Choice5c 16
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *72
55footloose5c 33
 The Crystal Towers 
57Diamonds and Dust
6b+ *49
58Broken Glass6b+ *61
 Jurassic Wall 
60Fate of Nations
E2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *31
6b **43
63just another rush6c+ *19
64Raving rostov
6b+ 3
65Full Stretch
6b 12
66Classic Jurassic
6b+ 7
 Sunnyside Wall 
68Target Practise6b+ 38
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *119
70Phil in the Gaps6a *238
71Rock Juggler6a+ 72
 Mesozoic Wall 
73Better than Nothing
74Only Just
75Just This One
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner Crack
HVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop
 Thirty Foot Wall 
79Dinomania6a+ 112
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 33
81Cool CymruVS 4b 11
6a+ *181
83Humbolt3+ 230
84Hyperwar4c 211
85Hyperactive5c 166
86Just a Mo
5a 187
87Feline Groovy4a 195
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 8
89Home is where the URL is5a 167
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 172
91So, Graham Norton3+ 139
92Puffed Daddy4a 174
93Land of Hype and Glory5a 221
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c 157
95More Fluff than Stuff4a 64
96Sea of Change4a 141
97Ghetto Fabulous4a 143
98Box of Tricks4a 142
99Break Like the Wind
VS 4c 16
100Mojo Man4a 64
101Deja Vu
6b 133
102Crow6a 131
103Windoze4c 111
104Trilobite5a 107
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 4
 The Lunar Landscape 
108Terrific Triassics
6c 9
109Burning Issue
7a 2
110Bristol Cream
6c+ 2
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *1
112Supergirly6b 2
113Supersaurus 1
114Supersaurus 2
115Supersaurus 3
 Gatecrasher Wall 
117Back from Beyond6a 29
118Top Cat6a+ *45
119Leaping Libidos
6a+ 47
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *8
122True Love6a+ 10
 Pine Tree Wall 
124Cupid's Arrow
6a 8
125Heart's Desire5a 9
126Virtual Reality4a 17
127Word Perfect
4c 31
128Candy Flip (1)
HVS 5a 5
129Vice or Virtue6b *14
130Candy Flip (2)5c 14
131Lakota (1)
VS 4c 11
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large
6a+ 15
6c 15
134Lakota (2)5c 9
135Creation4c 13
136Walk the Talk
VS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices
6b+ 2
138Misplaced Concerns
E2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 13
140Placebo6a 6
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 7
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex
VS 5a 1
6b+ 1
145Tokyo Express
146Tora Tora Tora5c 4
147Man with No Friends
HVS 4b  
 Spanish Wall & New Labour Wall 
149Bastardo Gordo
6a+ 12
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 4
151Blair - Which Project?6b 3
 Chaos Wall 
153Chaos Crack
HVS 5a  
E1 5b  
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!
5c 5
157Prima Gravida
6a+ 2
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot
6b+ * 
159Shake 'n' Vac
6c *1
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil7b 1

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