Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Herron on Phil in the Gaps © Herron

Crag features

A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.
A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes

Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent. 

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left. Shorn Cliff can be reached via the wooden gate on the right.

IMPORTANT: Please do not block any of the gates (the green, Tintern Quarry, or the wooden one, Shorn Cliff). These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Restricted Access

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

Today I got a call from a "representative" of the owner asking me to not climb neither encourage anyone to climb at the Quarry. That may mean tha the owner may be more active trying to prevent people to climb at the quearry. I commented in the BMC crag website. As previous comment says " if asked to leave, please do so politely".
FernandoHidalgo - 18/Jul/16
Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED RIGHT TO LEFT 
 Entry wall 
3Point of Principle5a 138
4Bigfoot5c 102
5Test of Time6b 13
6Hunker in the Bunker
-
6a 24
7Burning Embers6b 113
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *232
9Dispossessed6c **141
10Star Ship Troopers5c 191
11Irish Mist7a+ 17
12Dwarves' Dilemma
-
6b *47
13Phantom Menace
-
6a+ 13
14Clicking for Contraband6a 6
15Alter Ego5c 22
16Trojan Horse
-
6a 21
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 4
18Star Fighter
-
6a 3
 Lower Red Dust Wall 
20Mynydd Presili
-
6a+ 4
21Five Frogs On A Log4c 34
22Waltzing With Raptors
-
VS 4b  
23Anuta6b 13
24Dogs of Jaw
-
HVS 5a 5
25Cherry lips5c *12
26Dust Devil (1)5c 71
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 11
 Upper Red Dust Wall 
29Chossticks4c 13
30Megabyte5a 6
31Bad News for Druids
-
6a 16
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
-
6a+ *61
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 3
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite
-
6a *158
35Ammonite6b 65
36The Strange Attractor
-
HVS 5a 16
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *27
38No Woman, No Cry7c *14
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **21
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *27
41Man In Tears7b+ *42
42The Dead Vei7a+ *55
43Dust Devil (2)6b *232
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **59
45Eleventh Hour
-
7b+ 2
46The Last Temptation6c *5
47Sauropods6b+ *43
48Dust Buster
-
HVS 5b 10
 Strawberry Wall 
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 19
51Compact and Bijou6c 21
52Shake'n'Vac
-
6c *23
53Consumer Choice5c 17
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *80
55footloose5c 38
 The Crystal Towers 
57Diamonds and Dust
-
6b+ *54
58Broken Glass6b+ *67
 Jurassic Wall 
60Fate of Nations
-
E2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *42
62Raptor
-
6b **52
63just another rush6c+ *20
64Raving rostov
-
6b+ 4
65Full Stretch
-
6b 15
66Classic Jurassic
-
6b+ 9
 Sunnyside Wall 
68Target Practise6b+ 42
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *135
70Phil in the Gaps6a *273
71Rock Juggler6a+ 83
 Mesozoic Wall 
73Better than Nothing
-
4c  
74Only Just
-
4a  
75Just This One
-
6b  
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner Crack
-
HVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop
-
6b  
 Thirty Foot Wall 
79Dinomania6a+ 121
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 37
81Cool CymruVS 4b 11
82Dinofever
-
6a+ *198
83Humbolt3+ 260
84Hyperwar4c 233
85Hyperactive5c 183
86Just a Mo
-
5a 203
87Feline Groovy4a 212
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 8
89Home is where the URL is5a 184
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 192
91So, Graham Norton3+ 150
92Puffed Daddy4a 190
93Land of Hype and Glory5a 240
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c 175
95More Fluff than Stuff4a 74
96Sea of Change4a 148
97Ghetto Fabulous4a 154
98Box of Tricks4a 153
99Break Like the Wind
-
VS 4c 17
100Mojo Man4a 72
101Deja Vu
-
6b 145
102Crow6a 144
103Windoze4c 120
104Trilobite5a 120
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 5
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT 
 The Lunar Landscape 
108Terrific Triassics
-
6c 10
109Burning Issue
-
7a 3
110Bristol Cream
-
6c+ 4
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *2
112Supergirly6b 4
113Supersaurus 1
-
6a+ 2
114Supersaurus 2
-
5c 1
115Supersaurus 3
-
4c 2
 Gatecrasher Wall 
117Back from Beyond6a 31
118Top Cat6a+ *47
119Leaping Libidos
-
6a+ 49
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *9
122True Love6a+ 11
 Pine Tree Wall 
124Cupid's Arrow
-
6a 9
125Heart's Desire5a 11
126Virtual Reality4a 19
127Word Perfect
-
4c 32
128Candy Flip (1)
-
HVS 5a 6
129Vice or Virtue6b *14
130Candy Flip (2)5c 15
131Lakota (1)
-
VS 4c 12
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large
-
6a+ 15
133Karanga
-
6c 15
134Lakota (2)5c 10
135Creation4c 14
136Walk the Talk
-
VS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices
-
6b+ 2
138Misplaced Concerns
-
E2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 14
140Placebo6a 7
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 8
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex
-
6a  
143Raki
-
VS 5a 1
144Kamikaze
-
6b+ 1
145Tokyo Express
-
E2  
146Tora Tora Tora5c 4
147Man with No Friends
-
HVS 4b  
 Spanish Wall & New Labour Wall 
149Bastardo Gordo
-
6a+ 13
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 6
151Blair - Which Project?6b 5
 Chaos Wall 
153Chaos Crack
-
HVS 5a 1
154Fractal
-
E1 5b 1
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!
-
5c 6
157Prima Gravida
-
6a+ 3
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot
-
6b+ * 
159Shake 'n' Vac
-
6c *1
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil7b 1
161the Carpet Crawlers *6c *3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer CraigMcAteer