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These details were last updated on 31/Mar/2012

Tintern Quarry

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 142 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.

A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

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Guidebooks
Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED RIGHT TO LEFT  
 ENTRY WALL  
3Point of Principle5 90
4Bigfoot5+ 64
5Test of Time6b 10
6Hunker in the Bunker6a 19
7Burning Embers6b 76
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *145
9Dispossessed6c **93
10Star Ship Troopers5+ 138
11Irish Mist7a+ 11
12Dwarves' Dilemma6b *36
13Phantom Menace6a+ 8
14Clicking for Contraband6a 5
15Alter Ego5+ 15
16Trojan Horse6a 16
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 2
18Star Fighter6a 2
 LOWER RED DUST WALL  
20Mynydd Presili6a+ 2
21Five Frogs On A Log4+ 20
22Waltzing With RaptorsVS 4b  
23Anuta6b 8
24Dogs of JawHVS 5a 4
25Cherry lips5+ *8
26Dust Devil (1)5+ 39
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 9
 UPPER RED DUST WALL  
29Chossticks4+ 5
30Megabyte5 3
31Bad News for Druids6a 11
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno6a+ *42
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 2
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite6a *91
35Ammonite6b 39
36The Strange AttractorHVS 5a 9
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *12
38No Woman, No Cry7c *8
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **13
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *18
41Man In Tears7b+ *17
42The Dead Vei7a+ *27
43Dust Devil (2)6b *141
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **39
45Eleventh Hour7b+  
46The Last Temptation6c *4
47Sauropods6b+ *29
48Dust BusterHVS 5b 7
 STRAWBERRY WALL  
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 8
51Compact and Bijou6c 16
52Shake'n'Vac6c *20
53Consumer Choice5+ 10
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *57
55footloose5+ 21
 THE CRYSTAL TOWERS  
57Diamonds and Dust6b+ *34
58Broken Glass6b+ *44
 JURASSIC WALL  
60Fate of NationsE2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *18
62Raptor6b **28
63just another rush6c+ *14
64Raving rostov6b+  
65Full Stretch6b 9
66Classic Jurassic6b+ 4
 SUNNYSIDE WALL  
68Target Practise6b+ 27
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *94
70Phil in the Gaps6a *161
71Rock Juggler6a+ 48
 MESOZOIC WALL  
73Better than Nothing4+  
74Only Just4  
75Just This One6b  
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner CrackHVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop6b  
 THIRTY FOOT WALL  
79Dinomania6a+ 87
 Climb nameGradex
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 21
81Cool CymruVS 4b 8
82Dinofever6a+ *128
83Humbolt3+ 173
84Hyperwar4+ 173
85Hyperactive5+ 125
86Just a Mo5 117
87Feline Groovy4 137
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 6
89Home is where the URL is5 116
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 131
91So, Graham Norton3+ 100
92Puffed Daddy4 123
93Land of Hype and Glory5 159
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5+ 97
95More Fluff than Stuff4 40
96Sea of Change4 103
97Ghetto Fabulous4 96
98Box of Tricks4 103
99Break Like the WindVS 4c 11
100Mojo Man4 44
101Deja Vu6b 94
102Crow6a 97
103Windoze4+ 89
104Trilobite5 78
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 4
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT  
 THE LUNAR LANDSCAPE  
108Terrific Triassics6c 9
109Burning Issue7a 1
110Bristol Cream6c+ 1
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *1
112Supergirly6b 2
113Supersaurus 16a+  
114Supersaurus 25+  
115Supersaurus 34+  
 GATECRASHER WALL  
117Back from Beyond6a 19
118Top Cat6a+ *34
119Leaping Libidos6a+ 40
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *7
122True Love6a+ 8
 PINE TREE WALL  
124Cupid's Arrow6a 2
125Heart's Desire5 6
126Virtual Reality4 15
127Word Perfect4+ 23
128Candy Flip (1)HVS 5a  
129Vice or Virtue6b *10
130Candy Flip (2)5+ 12
131Lakota (1)VS 4c 9
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large6a+ 11
133Karanga6c 13
134Lakota (2)5+ 8
135Creation4+ 11
136Walk the TalkVS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices6b+ 2
138Misplaced ConcernsE2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 10
140Placebo6a 3
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 5
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex6a  
143RakiVS 5a  
144Kamikaze6b+ 1
145Tokyo ExpressE2  
146Tora Tora Tora5+ 2
147Man with No FriendsHVS 4b  
 SPANISH WALL & NEW LABOUR WALL  
149Bastardo Gordo6a+ 4
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 2
151Blair - Which Project?6b 1
 CHAOS WALL  
153Chaos CrackHVS 5a  
154FractalE1 5b  
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!5+ 3
157Prima Gravida6a+  
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot6b+ * 
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Access notes
Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent.

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right

Access is tolerated although there's no formal permission.

I was climbing there a few days ago after ignoring the signs and the owner came along. He fully understood the need to follow the sport and said that as long as we were careful not tho damage anything he didn't mind us climbing subtly. [Tom 8/05]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer CraigMcAteer ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05