Tintern Quarry

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.

A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes
Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent.

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right

Access is tolerated although there's no formal permission.

I was climbing there a few days ago after ignoring the signs and the owner came along. He fully understood the need to follow the sport and said that as long as we were careful not tho damage anything he didn't mind us climbing subtly. [Tom 8/05]

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
3Point of Principle5a 120
4Bigfoot5c 86
5Test of Time6b 10
6Hunker in the Bunker6a 21
7Burning Embers6b 100
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *195
9Dispossessed6c **123
10Star Ship Troopers5c 165
11Irish Mist7a+ 16
12Dwarves' Dilemma6b *44
13Phantom Menace6a+ 11
14Clicking for Contraband6a 5
15Alter Ego5c 20
16Trojan Horse6a 18
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 3
18Star Fighter6a 2
20Mynydd Presili6a+ 3
21Five Frogs On A Log4c 31
22Waltzing With RaptorsVS 4b  
23Anuta6b 12
24Dogs of JawHVS 5a 5
25Cherry lips5c *11
26Dust Devil (1)5c 66
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 11
29Chossticks4c 8
30Megabyte5a 3
31Bad News for Druids6a 12
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno6a+ *53
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 2
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite6a *133
35Ammonite6b 58
36The Strange AttractorHVS 5a 14
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *22
38No Woman, No Cry7c *10
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **16
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *25
41Man In Tears7b+ *31
42The Dead Vei7a+ *46
43Dust Devil (2)6b *204
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **50
45Eleventh Hour7b+ 2
46The Last Temptation6c *4
47Sauropods6b+ *39
48Dust BusterHVS 5b 8
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 14
51Compact and Bijou6c 19
52Shake'n'Vac6c *21
53Consumer Choice5c 16
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *72
55footloose5c 31
57Diamonds and Dust6b+ *45
58Broken Glass6b+ *61
60Fate of NationsE2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *31
62Raptor6b **42
63just another rush6c+ *19
64Raving rostov6b+ 2
65Full Stretch6b 12
66Classic Jurassic6b+ 6
68Target Practise6b+ 38
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *118
70Phil in the Gaps6a *234
71Rock Juggler6a+ 72
73Better than Nothing4c  
74Only Just4a  
75Just This One6b  
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner CrackHVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop6b  
79Dinomania6a+ 112
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 34
81Cool CymruVS 4b 11
82Dinofever6a+ *181
83Humbolt3+ 230
84Hyperwar4c 211
85Hyperactive5c 165
86Just a Mo5a 184
87Feline Groovy4a 193
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 8
89Home is where the URL is5a 165
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 170
91So, Graham Norton3+ 138
92Puffed Daddy4a 174
93Land of Hype and Glory5a 220
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c 156
95More Fluff than Stuff4a 64
96Sea of Change4a 141
97Ghetto Fabulous4a 143
98Box of Tricks4a 142
99Break Like the WindVS 4c 15
100Mojo Man4a 64
101Deja Vu6b 133
102Crow6a 131
103Windoze4c 111
104Trilobite5a 105
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 4
108Terrific Triassics6c 9
109Burning Issue7a 2
110Bristol Cream6c+ 2
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *1
112Supergirly6b 2
113Supersaurus 16a+  
114Supersaurus 25c  
115Supersaurus 34c  
117Back from Beyond6a 25
118Top Cat6a+ *42
119Leaping Libidos6a+ 46
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *8
122True Love6a+ 10
124Cupid's Arrow6a 8
125Heart's Desire5a 9
126Virtual Reality4a 17
127Word Perfect4c 30
128Candy Flip (1)HVS 5a 5
129Vice or Virtue6b *14
130Candy Flip (2)5c 14
131Lakota (1)VS 4c 11
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large6a+ 15
133Karanga6c 14
134Lakota (2)5c 9
135Creation4c 13
136Walk the TalkVS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices6b+ 2
138Misplaced ConcernsE2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 13
140Placebo6a 6
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 7
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex6a  
143RakiVS 5a 1
144Kamikaze6b+ 1
145Tokyo ExpressE2  
146Tora Tora Tora5c 4
147Man with No FriendsHVS 4b  
149Bastardo Gordo6a+ 10
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 2
151Blair - Which Project?6b 1
153Chaos CrackHVS 5a  
154FractalE1 5b  
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!5c 5
157Prima Gravida6a+ 2
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot6b+ * 
159Shake 'n' Vac6c *1
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil7b 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05