Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Herron on Phil in the Gaps © Herron

Crag features

A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.
A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes

Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent. 

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right.

Restricted Access

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Entry wall 
3Point of Principle5a 126
4Bigfoot5c 89
5Test of Time6b 12
6Hunker in the Bunker
6a 23
7Burning Embers6b 105
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *207
9Dispossessed6c **128
10Star Ship Troopers5c 176
11Irish Mist7a+ 16
12Dwarves' Dilemma
6b *46
13Phantom Menace
6a+ 12
14Clicking for Contraband6a 5
15Alter Ego5c 21
16Trojan Horse
6a 19
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+ 3
18Star Fighter
6a 2
 Lower Red Dust Wall 
20Mynydd Presili
6a+ 3
21Five Frogs On A Log4c 33
22Waltzing With Raptors
VS 4b  
23Anuta6b 12
24Dogs of Jaw
HVS 5a 5
25Cherry lips5c *11
26Dust Devil (1)5c 68
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b 11
 Upper Red Dust Wall 
29Chossticks4c 10
30Megabyte5a 4
31Bad News for Druids
6a 13
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
6a+ *54
33BoltisaurusE1 5b 3
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite
6a *136
35Ammonite6b 60
36The Strange Attractor
HVS 5a 16
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *23
38No Woman, No Cry7c *10
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **21
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *25
41Man In Tears7b+ *31
42The Dead Vei7a+ *46
43Dust Devil (2)6b *208
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **51
45Eleventh Hour
7b+ 2
46The Last Temptation6c *4
47Sauropods6b+ *39
48Dust Buster
HVS 5b 9
 Strawberry Wall 
50Geeks are Human Too6a+ 16
51Compact and Bijou6c 19
6c *21
53Consumer Choice5c 16
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *74
55footloose5c 34
 The Crystal Towers 
57Diamonds and Dust
6b+ *50
58Broken Glass6b+ *63
 Jurassic Wall 
60Fate of Nations
E2 5b  
61more is never enough6c *33
6b **43
63just another rush6c+ *19
64Raving rostov
6b+ 3
65Full Stretch
6b 14
66Classic Jurassic
6b+ 7
 Sunnyside Wall 
68Target Practise6b+ 39
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *123
70Phil in the Gaps6a *243
71Rock Juggler6a+ 74
 Mesozoic Wall 
73Better than Nothing
74Only Just
75Just This One
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner Crack
HVS 4c  
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop
 Thirty Foot Wall 
79Dinomania6a+ 113
80Mother of Pearl6a+ 33
81Cool CymruVS 4b 11
6a+ *184
83Humbolt3+ 238
84Hyperwar4c 218
85Hyperactive5c 172
86Just a Mo
5a 195
87Feline Groovy4a 207
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b 8
89Home is where the URL is5a 175
90Toys 4 Boys3+ 179
91So, Graham Norton3+ 142
92Puffed Daddy4a 179
93Land of Hype and Glory5a 228
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c 162
95More Fluff than Stuff4a 71
96Sea of Change4a 145
97Ghetto Fabulous4a 149
98Box of Tricks4a 147
99Break Like the Wind
VS 4c 17
100Mojo Man4a 67
101Deja Vu
6b 136
102Crow6a 136
103Windoze4c 115
104Trilobite5a 113
105Cat LitterHVS 4a 4
 The Lunar Landscape 
108Terrific Triassics
6c 9
109Burning Issue
7a 2
110Bristol Cream
6c+ 2
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *1
112Supergirly6b 2
113Supersaurus 1
114Supersaurus 2
115Supersaurus 3
4c 1
 Gatecrasher Wall 
117Back from Beyond6a 30
118Top Cat6a+ *46
119Leaping Libidos
6a+ 48
120Pussyfoot7a **5
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *8
122True Love6a+ 10
 Pine Tree Wall 
124Cupid's Arrow
6a 9
125Heart's Desire5a 11
126Virtual Reality4a 19
127Word Perfect
4c 32
128Candy Flip (1)
HVS 5a 6
129Vice or Virtue6b *14
130Candy Flip (2)5c 15
131Lakota (1)
VS 4c 12
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large
6a+ 15
6c 15
134Lakota (2)5c 10
135Creation4c 14
136Walk the Talk
VS 4c 1
137Polish Your Prejudices
6b+ 2
138Misplaced Concerns
E2 5b 3
139Pine tree groove6a 14
140Placebo6a 7
141While the cat's away the mice do play2 8
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex
VS 5a 1
6b+ 1
145Tokyo Express
146Tora Tora Tora5c 4
147Man with No Friends
HVS 4b  
 Spanish Wall & New Labour Wall 
149Bastardo Gordo
6a+ 13
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+ 5
151Blair - Which Project?6b 4
 Chaos Wall 
153Chaos Crack
HVS 5a 1
E1 5b 1
155An Unkind CutE1 5b 9
156Preserve those plums!
5c 6
157Prima Gravida
6a+ 3
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot
6b+ * 
159Shake 'n' Vac
6c *1
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil7b 1

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