Tintern Quarry

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.

A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Access notes
Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent.

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left.Shorn Cliff can be reached via the gate on the right

Access is tolerated although there's no formal permission.

I was climbing there a few days ago after ignoring the signs and the owner came along. He fully understood the need to follow the sport and said that as long as we were careful not tho damage anything he didn't mind us climbing subtly. [Tom 8/05]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED RIGHT TO LEFT 
 ENTRY WALL 
3Point of Principle5a
4Bigfoot5c
5Test of Time6b
6Hunker in the Bunker6a
7Burning Embers6b
8The Unkindest Cut Of All6a+ *
9Dispossessed6c **
10Star Ship Troopers5c
11Irish Mist7a+
12Dwarves' Dilemma6b *
13Phantom Menace6a+
14Clicking for Contraband6a
15Alter Ego5c
16Trojan Horse6a
17Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance6b+
18Star Fighter6a
 LOWER RED DUST WALL 
20Mynydd Presili6a+
21Five Frogs On A Log4c
22Waltzing With RaptorsVS 4b
23Anuta6b
24Dogs of JawHVS 5a
25Cherry lips5c *
26Dust Devil (1)5c
27When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty!7b
 UPPER RED DUST WALL 
29Chossticks4c
30Megabyte5a
31Bad News for Druids6a
32Dinosaurs Don't Dyno6a+ *
33BoltisaurusE1 5b
34Pocketful Of Kryptonite6a *
35Ammonite6b
36The Strange AttractorHVS 5a
37Fragrance Abuse6c+ *
38No Woman, No Cry7c *
39Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot7b+ **
40He's Beautiful, It's True7a+ *
41Man In Tears7b+ *
42The Dead Vei7a+ *
43Dust Devil (2)6b *
44Ashes to Ashes6c+ **
45Eleventh Hour7b+
46The Last Temptation6c *
47Sauropods6b+ *
48Dust BusterHVS 5b
 STRAWBERRY WALL 
50Geeks are Human Too6a+
51Compact and Bijou6c
52Shake'n'Vac6c *
53Consumer Choice5c
54The Buddleia Must Die6b+ *
55footloose5c
 THE CRYSTAL TOWERS 
57Diamonds and Dust6b+ *
58Broken Glass6b+ *
 JURASSIC WALL 
60Fate of NationsE2 5b
61more is never enough6c *
62Raptor6b **
63just another rush6c+ *
64Raving rostov6b+
65Full Stretch6b
66Classic Jurassic6b+
 SUNNYSIDE WALL 
68Target Practise6b+
69Mistaken Identity6b+ *
70Phil in the Gaps6a *
71Rock Juggler6a+
 MESOZOIC WALL 
73Better than Nothing4c
74Only Just4a
75Just This One6b
76Martyn's and Gordon's Corner CrackHVS 4c
77Snap, Crackle, and Pop6b
 THIRTY FOOT WALL 
79Dinomania6a+
80Mother of Pearl6a+
81Cool CymruVS 4b
82Dinofever6a+ *
83Humbolt3+
84Hyperwar4c
85Hyperactive5c
86Just a Mo5a
87Feline Groovy4a
88Life's A DanceHVS 5a/b
89Home is where the URL is5a
90Toys 4 Boys3+
91So, Graham Norton3+
92Puffed Daddy4a
93Land of Hype and Glory5a
94Don't panic, Climb Organic.5c
95More Fluff than Stuff4a
96Sea of Change4a
97Ghetto Fabulous4a
98Box of Tricks4a
99Break Like the WindVS 4c
100Mojo Man4a
101Deja Vu6b
102Crow6a
103Windoze4c
104Trilobite5a
105Cat LitterHVS 4a
 CLIMBS DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT 
 THE LUNAR LANDSCAPE 
108Terrific Triassics6c
109Burning Issue7a
110Bristol Cream6c+
111Bristol Cream (alt. finish)6c+ *
112Supergirly6b
113Supersaurus 16a+
114Supersaurus 25c
115Supersaurus 34c
 GATECRASHER WALL 
117Back from Beyond6a
118Top Cat6a+ *
119Leaping Libidos6a+
120Pussyfoot7a **
121Quip-U for Leisure6c+ *
122True Love6a+
 PINE TREE WALL 
124Cupid's Arrow6a
125Heart's Desire5a
126Virtual Reality4a
127Word Perfect4c
128Candy Flip (1)HVS 5a
129Vice or Virtue6b *
130Candy Flip (2)5c
131Lakota (1)VS 4c
132Martyn & Gordon Go Large6a+
133Karanga6c
134Lakota (2)5c
135Creation4c
136Walk the TalkVS 4c
137Polish Your Prejudices6b+
138Misplaced ConcernsE2 5b
139Pine tree groove6a
140Placebo6a
141While the cat's away the mice do play2
142Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex6a
143RakiVS 5a
144Kamikaze6b+
145Tokyo ExpressE2
146Tora Tora Tora5c
147Man with No FriendsHVS 4b
 SPANISH WALL & NEW LABOUR WALL 
149Bastardo Gordo6a+
150Prescott - Twice a Night6a+
151Blair - Which Project?6b
 CHAOS WALL 
153Chaos CrackHVS 5a
154FractalE1 5b
155An Unkind CutE1 5b
156Preserve those plums!5c
157Prima Gravida6a+
158Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot6b+ *
159Shake 'n' Vac6c *
160Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil *7b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer CraigMcAteer

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 31/Mar/2012

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