This ;little frequented crag comprises an area of broken butresses and grass/scree filled gullies nearly 100m above the A5 on the slopes of Pen yr Ole Wen. It is the most accessible crag in the Carneddau.
Series of cliffs with extremely complex structure; climbing is good despite the occasional patches of friable rock. Plenty of space for new routing for those thus inclined. Rarely busy. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 80m.
Receives lots of sun so will dry quickly, but are exposed to any bad weather.
From the parking at Ogwen Cottage on the A5, cross the road and gain the hillside under the crag via the stile.
|2||Pont Pen y Benglog Buttress||D||3|
|6||Widdershins||VS 4c *||3|
|7||Apprentice's Route||HVS 4c *||1|
|8||Braich Ty Du Face Right-Hand Start||3 *||7|
|11||Pinnacle Ridge||VD **||236|
|12||Braich Ty Du Face||2 *||26|
|16||Decameron Rib||VS 4b **||24|
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|Route finding can be daunting at first, with I think 9 seperate buttresses. But once you find a landmark (No. 7 has 2 diamond-shaped roofs on it) it all falls into place.
Very quiet, despite being in spitting distance of Ogwen Cottage. And you can watch the hordes trooping up the path to Idwal Slabs as you belay!|
KeithW - 04/Nov/05