Series of cliffs with extremely complex structure; climbing is good despite the occasional patches of friable rock. Plenty of space for new routing for those thus inclined. Rarely busy. Mainly multi-pitch routes to 80 metres.
The cliffs lie on the west flank of Pen yr Ole Wen, approximately 100 metres above the A5, extending for about a kilometre north west from Ogwen Cottage, parallel to the road.
|2||Pont Pen y Benglog Buttress||D||3|
|6||Widdershins||VS 4c *||3|
|7||Apprentice's Route||HVS 4c *||1|
|8||Braich Ty Du Face Right-Hand Start||3 *||6|
|11||Pinnacle Ridge||VD ***||223|
|12||Braich Ty Du Face||2 *||24|
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|Route finding can be daunting at first, with I think 9 seperate buttresses. But once you find a landmark (No. 7 has 2 diamond-shaped roofs on it) it all falls into place.
Very quiet, despite being in spitting distance of Ogwen Cottage. And you can watch the hordes trooping up the path to Idwal Slabs as you belay!|
KeithW - 04/Nov/05