Craig Yr Ysfa

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
This extensive mountain crag has many historic and classic routes, eg the splendid Amphitheatre Buttress (*** VDiff), all 960 ft of it, undoubtedly a contender for the best VDiff in the UK. Multi-pitch routes to 300m+, with Mur Y Niwl (VS) and Aura (E2) also worth doing.

Access notes
A few hundred metres west of Helyg on the Capel Curig to Bangor road (A5) is the start of a tarmac access road (SH687603) which strikes directly up the hillside northwards. Parking is available at Gwern Gof Isaf, some 200 metres towards Bangor. Rapid entry is required by the Mountain Rescue Teams and the farmer, so do NOT park in front ofthe locked gate! Follow the tarmac road through several gates to a fairly level section. Just where the road bears left, fork off right along a narrow footpath over a rise to a contour above the llyn; this is the Ffynnon Llugwy, Spring of the Conwy. The path then strikes up the hillside to zigzags and Bwlch Eryl Farchog (Pass of Eryl the Knight). Either follow paths down to the base of the crags or continue up the ridge above the cliff to the top of the Amphitheatre. Approx one hour from the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Truant RibD  
2The BanisterS 1
3The StaircaseVD  
4GomorrahS 1
5Spiral RouteVS 4a  
6Angle GrooveVS 4b  
7Arch GullyD  
8Cirque RibHVS 5a  
9Arch WallHS 4a  
10Arch WallVI 7 **3
11Cobweb WallS  
12Bending GullyD 1
13Heron SlabHS 3b  
14The Slab ClimbVD  
15Birch Tree ChimneyD  
16Avalanche ButtressVD 4
17Original RouteVD 1
18Beaumont's ChimneyS 1
19TroglodyteHS 3b  
20SigmaD 1
21EnigmaS 1
 AMPHITHEATRE BUTTRESS  
23Avalanche GullyD 4
24Amphitheatre ButtressVD ***783
25Figure Of EightVS 4b 1
26Pieces Of EightVS 4b  
27Sentry Box CrackHS 3b 1
28Dover RoadVS 4c&a2 1
29Cockroach CrackS  
30Reed RakeD  
31WhirlwindE3 5c * 
32El NinoE3 6a  
33DroughtE4 5c  
34Coffin ScoopHS 3b  
35One Flew Over the Cuckoo's NestVS 4c 5
36Cradle ChimneyVD  
37Mother's Little HelperE2 5b 1
38The Nameless RibD 5
39B GullyVD 1
40Amphitheatre RibD 8
41C GullyD 1
42D GullyM 2
43The CrackVS 4c 1
 MUR Y NIWL  
45PlumbaginE1 5b *9
46Solid AirE3 5c **2
47Turn The Centuries, TurnE3 6a * 
48AuraE2 5b ***54
49GriseofulvinE3 5c *2
50Mur y NiwlVS 4c ***211
51Mur Y Niwl DirectHVS 5a *1
52FaenaldoE3 5c  
53AmadeusE4 6a * 
54Mother Of MercyE5 6a ** 
55AgrippaE1 5a **11
56Craig Yr Ysfa Amphitheatre2 *20
57Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre WallE1 5b ***7
58LimaxVD  
59Carpet BaggersE1 5b&a0  
60Clean RibVD  
61Skyline ChimeyD  
 PINNACLE WALL  
63GettysburgHVS 5b * 
64The GrimmettVS 4c **47
65ExcaliburE2 5b *3
66Spiral ScratchE2 5b * 
67PinnaclissimaE2 5c ***34
68Ancient's WallE3 5c  
69The HauntedE5 6a **1
70Pinnacle WallS 4a ***130
71Sea Of DreamsE3 5c ** 
72Low ClimbVD  
73Nether ClimbS * 
74Vanishing GullyVD  
75Great GullyVD **116
76Great Gully (Winter)IV ***16
77Great Gully Left Wall ExitVD  
78Great Gully Right Wall ExitVD 1
79Great Gully Pinnacle DirectVS  
80Invisible ChimeyD  
81Great Gully WallE2 5b&a0 * 
82Shean TreuseVS 4c  
83Eigiau 'out there' trip *VI 7 *** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer victim of mathematics

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