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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 694637 (OS Landranger #115)

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These details were last updated on 11/Oct/2006

Craig Yr Ysfa

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
This extensive mountain crag has many historic and classic routes, eg the splendid Amphitheatre Buttress (*** VDiff), all 960 ft of it, undoubtedly a contender for the best VDiff in the UK. Multi-pitch routes to 300m+, with Mur Y Niwl (VS) and Aura (E2) also worth doing.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Snowdonia – Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Truant RibD  
2The BanisterS 1
3The StaircaseVD  
4GomorrahS 1
5Spiral RouteVS 4a  
6Angle GrooveVS 4b  
7Arch GullyD  
8Cirque RibHVS 5a  
9Arch WallHS 4a  
10Arch WallVI 7 **3
11Cobweb WallS  
12Bending GullyD  
13Heron SlabHS 3b  
14The Slab ClimbVD  
15Birch Tree ChimneyD  
16Avalanche ButtressVD 3
17Original RouteVD  
18Beaumont's ChimneyS  
19TroglodyteHS 3b  
20SigmaD 1
21EnigmaS 1
22Avalanche GullyD 3
23Amphitheatre ButtressVD ***534
24Figure Of EightVS 4b  
25Pieces Of EightVS 4b  
26Sentry Box CrackHS 3b  
27Dover RoadVS 4c&a2  
28Cockroach CrackS  
29Reed RakeD  
30WhirlwindE3 5c * 
31El NinoE3 6a  
32DroughtE4 5c  
33Coffin ScoopHS 3b  
34One Flew Over the Cuckoo's NestVS 4c 4
35Cradle ChimneyVD  
36Mother's Little HelperE2 5b 1
37The Nameless RibD 4
38B GullyVD  
39Amphitheatre RibD 7
40C GullyD 1
 Climb nameGradex
41D GullyM 1
42The CrackVS 4c 1
43PlumbaginE1 5b *3
44Solid AirE3 5c **1
45Turn The Centuries, TurnE3 6a * 
46AuraE2 5b ***21
47GriseofulvinE3 5c *2
48Mur y NiwlVS 4c ***154
49Mur Y Niwl DirectHVS 5a *1
50FaenaldoE3 5c  
51AmadeusE4 6a ** 
52Mother Of MercyE5 6a ** 
53AgrippaE1 5a **6
54Craig Yr Ysfa Amphitheatre2 *14
55Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre WallE1 5b ***6
56LimaxVD  
57Carpet BaggersE1 5b&a0  
58Clean RibVD  
59Skyline ChimeyD  
60GettysburgHVS 5b * 
61The GrimmettVS 4c **28
62ExcaliburE2 5b 2
63Spiral ScratchE2 5b * 
64PinnaclissimaE2 5c **8
65Ancient's WallE3 5c  
66The HauntedE5 6a **1
67Pinnacle WallS **90
68Sea Of DreamsE3 5c ** 
69Low ClimbVD  
70Nether ClimbS * 
71Vanishing GullyVD  
72Great GullyVD **82
73Great Gully (Winter)IV ***10
74Great Gully Left Wall ExitVD  
75Great Gully Right Wall ExitVD 1
76Great Gully Pinnacle DirectVS  
77Invisible ChimeyD  
78Great Gully WallE2 5b&a0 * 
79Shean TreuseVS 4c  
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Access notes
A few hundred metres west of Helyg on the Capel Curig to Bangor road (A5) is the start of a tarmac access road (SH687603) which strikes directly up the hillside northwards. Parking is available at Gwern Gof Isaf, some 200 metres towards Bangor. Rapid entry is required by the Mountain Rescue Teams and the farmer, so do NOT park in front ofthe locked gate! Follow the tarmac road through several gates to a fairly level section. Just where the road bears left, fork off right along a narrow footpath over a rise to a contour above the llyn; this is the Ffynnon Llugwy, Spring of the Conwy. The path then strikes up the hillside to zigzags and Bwlch Eryl Farchog (Pass of Eryl the Knight). Either follow paths down to the base of the crags or continue up the ridge above the cliff to the top of the Amphitheatre. Approx one hour from the road.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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