Climbs 80
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces E

BOING!!! © Barrez

Crag features

This extensive mountain crag has many historic and classic routes, eg the splendid Amphitheatre Buttress (*** VDiff), all 960 ft of it, undoubtedly a contender for the best VDiff in the UK. Multi-pitch routes to 300m+, with Mur Y Niwl (VS) and Aura (E2) also worth doing.

Approach notes

A few hundred metres west of Helyg on the Capel Curig to Bangor road (A5) is the start of a tarmac access road (SH687603) which strikes directly up the hillside northwards. Parking is available at Gwern Gof Isaf, some 200 metres towards Bangor. Rapid entry is required by the Mountain Rescue Teams and the farmer, so do NOT park in front ofthe locked gate! Follow the tarmac road through several gates to a fairly level section. Just where the road bears left, fork off right along a narrow footpath over a rise to a contour above the llyn; this is the Ffynnon Llugwy, Spring of the Conwy. The path then strikes up the hillside to zigzags and Bwlch Eryl Farchog (Pass of Eryl the Knight). Either follow paths down to the base of the crags or continue up the ridge above the cliff to the top of the Amphitheatre. Approx one hour from the road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Truant Rib
-
D  
2The Banister
-
S 1
3The Staircase
-
VD  
4Gomorrah
-
S 1
5Spiral Route
-
VS 4a  
6Angle Groove
-
VS 4b  
7Arch Gully
-
D 1
8Cirque Rib
-
HVS 5a  
9Arch Wall
-
HS 4a  
10Arch WallVI 7 **3
11Cobweb Wall
-
S  
12Bending Gully
-
D 1
13Heron Slab
-
HS 3b  
14The Slab Climb
-
VD  
15Birch Tree Chimney
-
D  
16Avalanche Buttress
-
VD 4
17Original Route
-
VD 1
18Beaumont's Chimney
-
S 1
19Troglodyte
-
HS 3b  
20Sigma
-
D 1
21Enigma
-
S 1
 Amphitheatre Buttress 
23Avalanche Gully
-
D 5
24Amphitheatre ButtressVD ***1208
25Figure Of Eight
-
VS 4b 1
26Pieces Of Eight
-
VS 4b  
27Sentry Box Crack
-
HS 3b 1
28Dover Road
-
VS 4c&a2 1
29Cockroach Crack
-
S  
30Reed Rake
-
D  
31Whirlwind
-
E3 5c * 
32El Nino
-
E3 6a  
33Drought
-
E4 5c  
34Coffin Scoop
-
HS 3b  
35One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest
-
VS 4c 5
36Cradle Chimney
-
VD  
37Mother's Little HelperE2 5b 1
38The Nameless Rib
-
D 5
39B Gully
-
VD 1
40Amphitheatre RibD 9
41C Gully
-
D 1
42D Gully
-
M 3
43The Crack
-
VS 4c 1
 Mur y Niwl 
45PlumbaginE1 5b *10
46Solid Air
-
E3 5c **2
47Turn The Centuries, Turn
-
E3 6a * 
48AuraE2 5b ***82
49GriseofulvinE3 5c *2
50Mur y NiwlVS 4c ***375
51Mur Y Niwl Direct
-
HVS 5a *2
52Faenaldo
-
E3 5c  
53AmadeusE4 6a * 
54Mother Of Mercy
-
E5 6a ** 
55AgrippaE1 5a **20
56Craig Yr Ysfa Amphitheatre2 *30
57Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall
-
E1 5b ***18
58Limax
-
VD  
59Carpet Baggers
-
E1 5b&a0  
60Clean Rib
-
VD  
61Skyline Chimey
-
D  
 Pinnacle Wall 
63GettysburgHVS 5b *1
64The GrimmettVS 4c **75
65ExcaliburE2 5b *4
66Spiral ScratchE2 5b *3
67PinnaclissimaE2 5c ***55
68Ancient's Wall
-
E3 5c  
69The HauntedE5 6a **1
70Pinnacle WallS 4a ***235
71Sea Of Dreams
-
E3 5c ** 
72Low Climb
-
VD  
73Nether Climb
-
S * 
74Vanishing Gully
-
VD 1
75Great GullyVD **206
76Great Gully (Winter)
-
IV ***18
77Great Gully Left Wall Exit
-
VD  
78Great Gully Right Wall Exit
-
VD 1
79Great Gully Pinnacle Direct
-
VS  
80Invisible Chimey
-
D  
81Great Gully Wall
-
E2 5b&a0 * 
82Shean Treuse
-
VS 4c  
83Eigiau 'out there' trip
-
VI 7 *** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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