Climbs 77
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 1150m a.s.l
Faces N

Bidean Nam Bian © Russell Lovett

Crag features

Glen Coe's most remote crag, with a fantastic mountaineering atmosphere. Relatively few climbers will be encountered here compared with busier cliffs in the Glen. Both summer and winter routes of quality exist here, with some good mid-grade winter routes often being in condition when lower cliffs are not so good.

The main features are as following:

Diamond Buttress and Church Door Buttress, split by Central Gully (an easy winter route), which is in turn split at the bottom by the rock tower of Collie's Pinnacle
Bishop's Buttress, capped by the West Summit of Bidean nam Bian.

Approach notes

Park just off the A82 in a small car park by Achnambeithhach. Walk a little way along the A82 towards Glencoe Village and climb over the road barrier and go through a gate at the other side of the bridge.

Follow the well constructed path upwards. Further up; head left across the coire to the bottom of the crags.  Around 2 hours 30 to the base on the crag.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Bidean nam Bian summit
-
summit 343
 North East Face 
3North-East FaceII *3
4Gully to the left of Gateway GullyII *1
5Gateway GullyII *1
6Central RouteI *1
 Diamond Buttress 
8North RouteII 3
9North Route (summer)D 3
10North Route (Icefall variation)III 1
11North Route DirectIII **13
12Diamond Route
-
V 6 *1
13Diamond DiretissimaHVS 4c * 
14Direct Route (summer)
-
S  
15Direct Route (winter)
-
V 6 **4
16Winter Route
-
VI 6 * 
17Diamond Edge
-
IV 5 *1
18Crazy DiamondIII  
19ChokerIII  
 Collie's Pinnacle 
21The Short Side
-
1  
22North Chimney
-
D  
23North ChimneyIV 5  
24Fever PitchV 7  
25West Face
-
VD  
26West FaceIV 6  
 Church Door Buttress 
28Central Gully (Left-Hand Start)
-
II **3
29Koh-i-norV 7 * 
30Central Gully (Right-Hand Start)
-
I **44
31Redemption
-
VI 6 * 
32Un Poco LocoVII 7 ***31
33Crypt Route
-
VD ***163
34Right Route DirectIII  
35Crypt Route (winter)
-
V 6 ***86
36Flaked OutV 6  
37Flake RouteVD **3
38Flake Route (winter)
-
IV 6 **13
39Flake Route Right Hand
-
V 7 2
40AnglesVIII 9  
41West Face Route
-
S  
42Dark Mass
-
VI 6 * 
43Critical MassVII 7  
44Templer KnightsVII 8 ** 
45West ChimneyV 7 ***66
46CrusadeVII 8 ***1
47Fundamentalists
-
E4 6a *** 
48Lost Arrow
-
E3 6a *** 
49Kingpin
-
E3 6a ***12
50The Lost Ark
-
E4 6a ***2
51The Holy Grail
-
E5 6b ** 
52Temple of Doom
-
E3 6a ***2
53Temple of DumbE4 5c * 
54The Last Crusade
-
E3 5c * 
55The Gangway
-
II 4
56Great GullyI 6
 Bishop's Buttress (West Summit) 
58WestieII  
59Anniversary Arete
-
E1 5b **1
60The Crook
-
HVS 5a * 
61Ambush
-
VI 7  
62The Gallery
-
IV 5 *1
63Under the WeatherVII 7  
64The Fang
-
V 6 * 
65Closer
-
IV 5 **1
66St Peter's Well
-
VI 7 ** 
67Return of the Nedi
-
IV 5 *1
68Parthian Shot
-
V 7 * 
69The PashVI 6  
70The GashIV 4 28
71IncisionVI 7  
72The Hash
-
III 3 3
73StramashIV 4  
74Surely
-
II/III  
75Hourglass Gully
-
I *24
76Hourglass Grove
-
III  
77Dubiety
-
IV 5  
78Minute Man
-
IV 5 *1
79OdysseyII/III *1
80Puppet on a StringV 6 ** 
81PirouetteVI 7 ** 
82Tiger FeetIV 5 * 
Volunteer to moderate Bidean nam Bian
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]