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These details were last updated on 09/Apr/2012

Baildon Bank

West Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 180 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a hard sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

5.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
20 kph

3.5mm rain
10 °C
24 kph

1.6mm rain
10 °C
18 kph

2.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
21 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
5 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2KarenS 3
3Karen Right HandE1 5a 1
4GrotS 4
5Gold RingsVS 4c 5
6La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 4
7Pearly GatesS 4a 55
8Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
9Nude GrooveHVS 5a *33
10AnthraxE7 6b *2
11Toss offHVS 5a 11
12HadesVS 4c ***176
13EpitaphHS 4a **175
14Epitaph DirectVS 4b **106
15Future TimesE1 5b 21
16Going for OnenessE1 5b 3
17RamE1 5b *24
18Pinnacle FlakeS 5
19ChimneyD 4
20RipS 4a 83
21Big CurverHVS 5b *40
22LeewayVS 4c 6
23SlitHVS 5b 4
24MoriaE2 5c **43
25IntrepidE6 6a **7
26The FlakesE3 5c *18
27Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
28ScarE2 5c ***133
29Scar WallE5 6b *14
30Paddy's RouteVS 4b 69
31Twin CracksS 4a 20
32Rocking ChimneyVD 11
33Red WallHVS 5c 1
34PromenadeM 21
35Layback CrackVD 46
36AdamskiMVS 4b 7
37Pea PodS 4a 26
38Whillan's AreteVS 4c **50
40Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
42Cold BumS 1
43Yellow WayS 7
44Lay AwayVS 5a 12
45CavernVD 1
46Flake CrackHS 4a 3
47Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
48Sensational ExposureM **19
49Bramble CrackVS 4c **65
50The FinHVS 5a 3
51Sabre CrackMVS 4b 2
52Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
53Born FreeS 22
54BlackVD 81
55AndS 4a 74
56TanVD 77
57DoodleVS 5a 35
58ConchHS 4b **178
59HornS 6
60RufVS 5a 20
61No TopVS 4c 1
62Heaven CornerS 1
63Agnostic's AreteS 4a **74
64MissoutE1 5a 35
65To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
66Half CrackMVS 4b 2
67The Great AdventureHVS 5a *2
68Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
69JammyS 6
70HMS AmethystS 4a **137
71JoannaVS 5a ***127
72ArufeMVS 4c *21
73AnnudarufeVS 4c 8
74PoisonS 4a 22
75Last DayHVS 5a 10
76Heave TooE3 6b *1
77Jericho WallVD 18
78Curving CracksHVS 5b 8
79PillarMVS 4b 13
80Stubby LegsVS 4c 1
81Do KnotHVS 5a 4
82FingersE1 5c  
 Climb nameGradex
83Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
84SwingoverE3 5c ***7
85Wombling WallE4 6a ***9
86Prairie StepsS 4a **111
87Count UpVD 8
88Potch WallVS 1
89Hotch CrackD 3
90Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
91Banana GrooveS 3
92Bee StingHVS 4c 4
93Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 6
94Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
95Coronation StreetS 4a 17
96All Fall DownS 4a 1
97MashS 5
98South WallHVS 5c 1
99BygonesVD 9
100The BlobD 3
101Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
102Broken OffVD 8
103CrackerHS 4a 4
104SatireE2 5b ***7
106Descent RouteM 3
107BlockheadVD 4
108DiffD 3
109ArkansasS 1
110Cleanstone WallE1 5c *2
111Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
112V RouteS 1
113ViperVS 4c *8
114Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *5
115TriangHVS 5a *15
116DesperadoE3 6a **1
117HemispheresHVS 5b 1
118Anne of CleavesE3 5c **5
119EnterpriseE2 6a  
120BipodMVS 4c 1
121Hergest RidgeE4 5c  
122FuturamaVS 4c 1
123LightningHVS 5b 1
124Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
126Blade Runnerf7A ***4
127Armageddonf7A+ **4
128Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **5
129Zenaf7A+ 1
130The Green Wingf7B **7
131The Mantlef6C **2
132The Singing Postmanf6C * 
133Chips OriginalV0- 1
134Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
135Hades StartV0- 5
136Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
137Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
138Armagedon reach aroundV5 3
139Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
140Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
141Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
142Lay away: boulder startV3 **5
143Lay Away RHV4 *3
144Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
145Slopey TraverseV5 2
147S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
148Turk in the HoleHS 4a 2
149Ulley RightVS 4c 1
150SpiderHVS 5a 2
151GesticulationE4 6b 2
152Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
153CrucifixHVS 4c 3
154Green WallS 1
155Petrol Powered Garden ToolsE1 5b *2
156OlleyE3 5c 1
157RampHVS 5a 3
158PulloverVS 4c 2
159JumperHVS 4c 1
160QuietusE3 6b *1
161ChipperE3 5b *1
162Cool TricksterE5 5c **2
163Congressman DilbeckE6 6b/c **1
164Last EdgeE5 6b ***1
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Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10

The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08