Baildon Bank

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT TO RIGHT AS OF 2014 GUIDE  
 LOWER QUARRY/ ANNE OF CLEAVES / CRICKETER'S QUARRY  
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **9
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12DesperadoE3 6a **2
13TriangHVS 5a *21
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *9
15ViperVS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V RouteS 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone WallE1 5c *5
20ArkansasS 1
21DiffD 3
22BlockheadVD 4
23Descent RouteM 4
 SATIRE AREA  
25SatireE2 5b ***8
26Cavern RouteS 4a *1
 CORONATION STREET AREA  
28CrackerHS 4a 4
29Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
30Broken OffVD 9
31The BlobD 3
32BygonesVD 10
33South WallHVS 5c 1
34MashS 5
35All Fall DownS 4a 1
36Coronation StreetS 4a *20
37Up and OverVS 4c 1
38Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 7
39Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
 UPPER QUARRY (RIGHT OF STEPS)  
41Bee StingHVS 5a 4
42Banana GrooveS 3
43Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
44Hotch CrackD 3
45Potch WallVS 4b 1
46Count UpVD 8
47Prairie StepsHVD 4a **122
48Wombling WallE4 6a ***10
49SwingoverE3 5c ***11
50Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
51Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 4
52FingersE1 5c  
53Green WallS 1
54Do KnotHVS 5a 4
55RampHVS 5a 4
56Stubby LegsVS 4c 3
57PillarMVS 4b 18
58Curving CracksHVS 5b 11
59Jericho WallVD 20
60JumperHVS 4c 1
61PulloverVS 4c 5
62Heave TooE3 6b *1
63Turd in the HoleHS 4b 3
 JOANNA AREA  
65JeanetteS  
66Last DayHVS 5a 11
67PoisonS 4a *27
68AnnudarufeVS 4c 10
69ArufeMVS 4c *25
70JoannaVS 5a ***155
71HMS AmethystS 4a **157
72JammyS 7
 CONCH AREA  
74No TopVS 4c 1
75Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
76Half CrackMVS 4b 5
77To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
78MissoutE1 5a 38
79Agnostic's AreteHS 4b **88
80RufVS 5a 24
81ConchHS 4b **226
82DoodleVS 5a 39
83TanVD 87
84In BetweenVS 5a 1
85AndS 4a 80
86BlackVD 88
87Born FreeHS 4b 25
 'BRAMBLE CRACK'/'LAST EDGE' AREA  
89CrucifixHVS 4c 3
90Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
91S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
92Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
93Sabre CrackMVS 4b 2
94ChipperE3 5b *3
95Cool TricksterE5 5c **2
96Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **2
97The FinHVS 5a 3
98Bramble CrackVS 4c **72
99Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
100Sensational ExposureM **21
101Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
102Flake CrackHS 4b 3
103CavernVD 3
104Yellow WayS 7
105LayawayVS 4c 12
 BOX QUARRY (ABANDON ALL HOPE)  
107Cold BumS 1
108Ulley RightVS 4c 1
109Saw OffE2 5c 1
110SpiderHVS 5a 2
111Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 LEFT TO RIGHT MAIN CRAG CONTINUED  
 SCAR BUTTRESS  
114Whillan's AreteHVS 5a **55
115Pea PodHS 4b 29
116AdamskiMVS 4b 7
117Layback CrackVD 54
118PromenadeM 26
119Red WallHVS 5c 1
120Rocking ChimneyHVD 4a 12
121Twin CracksS 4b 21
122Paddy's RouteVS 4b 84
123GesticulationE4 6b 3
124Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
125Scar WallE5 6b *17
126ScarE2 5b ***168
127The FlakesE3 5c *24
128IntrepidE6 6a **11
129MoriaE2 5c **64
130SlitHVS 5b 5
131LeewayHVS 5b 6
132Big CurverHVS 5b *44
 RIP BUTTRESS  
134RipHS 4a 91
 EPITAPH / HADES AREA TO RIGHT HAND END  
136ChimneyD 4
137Pinnacle FlakeS 7
138RamE1 5b *25
139Going for OnenessE1 5b 3
140Future TimesE1 5b 24
141EpitaphHS 4a **212
142Epitaph DirectVS 4b **131
143OlleyE3 5c 1
144HadesVS 4c ***216
145AnthraxE7 6b *2
146QuietusE4 6b *1
147Toss offHVS 5a 14
148Nude GrooveHVS 5a *37
149Pearly GatesHS 4a 61
150Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
151La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 4
152Gold RingsVS 4c 6
153GrotS 5
154KarenS 3
155Karen Right HandHVS 5a 1
 BOULDERING  
157Blade Runnerf7A ***5
158Armageddonf7A+ **4
159Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **5
160Zenaf7A+ 1
161The Green Wingf7B **9
162The Mantlef6C **2
163The Singing Postmanf6C * 
164Chips OriginalV0- 1
165Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
166Hades StartV0- 5
167Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
168Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
169Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
170Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
171Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
172Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
173Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
174Lay Away RHV4 *4
175Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
176Warm Upf4 *5
177Slopey TraverseV5 2
178PodV0+ 1
179Pod AreteV2 1
180Pod ReachV4 1
181Hand Crackf4 *1
182Slab and Rooff4 1
183Block Wallf6B *3
184Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
185Central Routef5 **4
186Right Edgef4 4b *2
187Rising Moonf6B 1
188Pocket Jugsf5 *6
189Crispy Wallf5+ 1
190Crimp Wallf5 1
191Pocketf5 1
192Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
193Fresh Traversef4 1
194Fleshf6A+ *1
195Slopersf6C **1
196Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
197Quaint Groovef6C ***2
198Halle Baildonf6C+ *** 
199Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
200Jug Problemf5 *1
201Wombling Edgef6B 2
202Womble Pocketf5+ 2
203Wave Aretef6C *2
204Grit Aretef5 **1
205the Oikf6A+ **1
206Heave Onef6A 1
207Bitterf6B *1
208Refuse to Mambof7A ** 
209Fat Larry Whitef7C *1
 NEW ROUTES / NOT CHECKED / SORTED  
211The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
212Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *2
213Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
214T'Empire strikes backE2 5c * 
215LocalmotionE2 5b  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08