Baildon Bank

Climbs 194 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT TO RIGHT AS OF 2014 GUIDE  
 LOWER QUARRY/ ANNE OF CLEAVES / CRICKETER'S QUARRY  
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 2
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **9
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12DesperadoE3 6a **2
13TriangHVS 5a *19
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *8
15ViperVS 4c *11
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V RouteS 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone WallE1 5c *3
20ArkansasS 1
21DiffD 3
22BlockheadVD 4
23Descent RouteM 3
 SATIRE AREA  
25SatireE2 5b ***8
 CORONATION STREET AREA  
27CrackerHS 4a 4
28Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
29Broken OffVD 9
30The BlobD 3
31BygonesVD 10
32South WallHVS 5c 1
33MashS 5
34All Fall DownS 4a 1
35Coronation StreetS 4a *19
36Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 6
37Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
 UPPER QUARRY (RIGHT OF STEPS)  
39Bee StingHVS 5a 4
40Banana GrooveS 3
41Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
42Hotch CrackD 3
43Potch WallVS 4b 1
44Count UpVD 8
45Prairie StepsHVD 4a **115
46Wombling WallE4 6a ***9
47SwingoverE3 5c ***9
48Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
49Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 3
50FingersE1 5c  
51Green WallS 1
52Do KnotHVS 5a 4
53RampHVS 5a 4
54Stubby LegsVS 4c 3
55PillarMVS 4b 17
56Curving CracksHVS 5b 11
57Jericho WallVD 20
58JumperHVS 4c 1
59PulloverVS 4c 4
60Heave TooE3 6b *1
61Turd in the HoleHS 4b 3
 JOANNA AREA  
63JeanetteS  
64Last DayHVS 5a 10
65PoisonS 4a *26
66AnnudarufeVS 4c 10
67ArufeMVS 4c *24
68JoannaVS 5a ***142
69HMS AmethystS 4a **149
70JammyS 7
 CONCH AREA  
72No TopVS 4c 1
73Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
74Half CrackMVS 4b 4
75To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
76MissoutE1 5a 36
77Agnostic's AreteHS 4b **81
78RufVS 5a 22
79ConchHS 4b **207
80DoodleVS 5a 39
81TanVD 85
82AndS 4a 79
83BlackVD 85
84Born FreeHS 4b 24
 'BRAMBLE CRACK'/'LAST EDGE' AREA  
86CrucifixHVS 4c 3
87Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
88S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
89Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
90Sabre CrackMVS 4b 2
91ChipperE3 5b *1
92Cool TricksterE5 5c **2
93Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **1
94The FinHVS 5a 3
95Bramble CrackVS 4c **68
96Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
97Sensational ExposureM **21
98Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
99Flake CrackHS 4b 3
100CavernVD 3
101Yellow WayS 7
102LayawayVS 4c 12
 BOX QUARRY (ABANDON ALL HOPE)  
104Cold BumS 1
105Ulley RightVS 4c 1
106Saw OffE2 5c 1
107SpiderHVS 5a 2
108Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 LEFT TO RIGHT MAIN CRAG CONTINUED  
 SCAR BUTTRESS  
111Whillan's AreteHVS 5a **51
112Pea PodHS 4b 27
113AdamskiMVS 4b 7
114Layback CrackVD 50
115PromenadeM 24
116Red WallHVS 5c 1
117Rocking ChimneyHVD 4a 12
118Twin CracksS 4b 21
119Paddy's RouteVS 4b 79
120GesticulationE4 6b 3
121Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
122Scar WallE5 6b *15
123ScarE2 5b ***159
124The FlakesE3 5c *24
125IntrepidE6 6a **10
126MoriaE2 5c **56
127SlitHVS 5b 5
128LeewayHVS 5b 6
129Big CurverHVS 5b *43
 RIP BUTTRESS  
131RipHS 4a 90
 EPITAPH / HADES AREA TO RIGHT HAND END  
133ChimneyD 4
134Pinnacle FlakeS 7
135RamE1 5b *25
136Going for OnenessE1 5b 3
137Future TimesE1 5b 22
138EpitaphHS 4a **199
139Epitaph DirectVS 4b **117
140OlleyE3 5c 1
141HadesVS 4c ***202
142AnthraxE7 6b *2
143QuietusE4 6b *1
144Toss offHVS 5a 12
145Nude GrooveHVS 5a *34
146Pearly GatesHS 4a 60
147Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
148La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 4
149Gold RingsVS 4c 6
150GrotS 5
151KarenS 3
152Karen Right HandHVS 5a 1
 BOULDERING  
154Blade Runnerf7A ***5
155Armageddonf7A+ **4
156Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **5
157Zenaf7A+ 1
158The Green Wingf7B **8
159The Mantlef6C **2
160The Singing Postmanf6C * 
161Chips OriginalV0- 1
162Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
163Hades StartV0- 5
164Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
165Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
166Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
167Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
168Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
169Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
170Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
171Lay Away RHV4 *4
172Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
173Warm Upf4 *4
174Slopey TraverseV5 2
175PodV0+ 1
176Pod AreteV2 1
177Pod ReachV4 1
178Hand Crackf4 *1
179Slab and Rooff4 1
180Block Wallf6B *3
181Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
182Central Routef5 **4
183Right Edgef4 4b *2
184Rising Moonf6B 1
185Pocket Jugsf5 *5
186Crispy Wallf5+ 1
187Crimp Wallf5 1
188Pocketf5 1
189Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
190Fresh Traversef4 1
191Fleshf6A+ *1
192Slopersf6C **1
193Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
194Quaint Groovef6C ***1
195Halle Baildonf6C+ *** 
196Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
197Jug Problemf5 *1
198Wombling Edgef6B 2
199Womble Pocketf5+ 2
200Wave Aretef6C *2
201Grit Aretef5 **1
202the Oikf6A+ **1
203Heave Onef6A 1
204Bitterf6B *1
205Refuse to Mambof7A ** 
 NEW ROUTES / NOT CHECKED / SORTED  
207The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
208Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *2
209Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
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One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08