Climbs 208
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left to Right as of 2014 Guide 
 Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry 
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **10
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12Desperado
-
E3 6a **2
13Triang
-
HVS 5a *22
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *11
15Viper
-
VS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V Route
-
S 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c *5
20Cleanstone CrackVD 1
21Arkansas
-
S 2
22DiffD 4
23ChatS 1
24Blockhead
-
VD 5
25Descent RouteM 5
 Satire Area 
27Satire
-
E2 5b ***11
28Cavern RouteS 4a *2
 Coronation Street Area 
30WaredusitgoVS 4c 1
31Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
32Camera ShakeHVS 5b 2
33Broken Off
-
VD 10
34The Blob
-
D 3
35Bygones
-
VD 10
36South WallHVS 5c 1
37Mash
-
S 5
38All Fall Down
-
S 4a 2
39Coronation Street
-
S 4a *25
40Up and OverVS 4c 2
41Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
42Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
 Upper Quarry (Right of Steps) 
44Bee StingHVS 5a 5
45Banana GrooveS 4
46Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 6
47Hotch Crack
-
D 4
48Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
49Count Up
-
VD 14
50Prairie StepsHVD 4a **150
51Wombling WallE4 6a ***12
52SwingoverE3 5c ***16
53Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
54Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 5
55FingersE1 5c  
56Green WallS 1
57Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 5
58Ramp
-
HVS 5a 5
59Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
60Pillar
-
MVS 4b 22
61Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 12
62Jericho Wall
-
VD 20
63Jumper
-
HVS 4c 1
64Pullover
-
VS 4c 5
65Heave TooE3 6b *1
66Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 4
 Joanna Area 
68Jeanette
-
S 1
69Last Day
-
HVS 5a 11
70Poison
-
S 4a *44
71Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 13
72Annudarufe (central start)VS 5a 1
73Arufe
-
MVS 4c *31
74Joanna
-
VS 5a ***186
75HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a **187
76TonupS 4a 1
77Jammy
-
S 11
 Conch Area 
79No TopVS 4c 2
80Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 2
81Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 6
82To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
83Missout
-
E1 5a 42
84Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b **110
85RufVS 5a 30
86ConchHS 4b **268
87Doodle
-
VS 5a 43
88Tan
-
VD 99
89In BetweenVS 5a 4
90And
-
S 4a 91
91Black
-
VD 101
92Born Free
-
HS 4b 28
 'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area 
94CrucifixHVS 4c 4
95Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
96S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
97Matey's CrackVS 4c 5
98Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
99ChipperE3 5b *3
100Cool TricksterE5 5c **3
101Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **3
102The FinHVS 5a 4
103Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c **85
104Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
105Sensational Exposure
-
M **25
106Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
107Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 4
108Cavern
-
VD 4
109Yellow WayS 9
110Layaway
-
VS 4c 13
 Box Quarry (Abandon all hope) 
112Cold Bum
-
S 1
113Flake CornerHVS 5b 1
114Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
115Saw OffE2 5c 1
116Spider
-
HVS 5a 3
117Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 Left to Right main crag Continued 
 Scar Buttress 
120Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a **68
121Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 32
122Adamski
-
MVS 4b 7
123Layback Crack
-
VD 58
124Promenade
-
M 31
125Red WallHVS 5c 1
126Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 17
127Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 30
128Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 97
129GesticulationE4 6b 3
130Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
131Scar Wall
-
E5 6b *19
132ScarE2 5b ***203
133The Flakes
-
E3 5c *31
134IntrepidE6 6a **12
135Moria
-
E2 5c **84
136SlitHVS 5b 5
137LeewayHVS 5b 6
138Big Curver
-
HVS 5b *50
 Rip Buttress 
140Rip
-
HS 4a 108
 Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End 
142Chimney
-
D 5
143Pinnacle Flake
-
S 9
144Ram
-
E1 5b *34
145Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 4
146Future Times
-
E1 5b 26
147Epitaph
-
HS 4a **258
148Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b **157
149OlleyE3 5c 1
150Hades
-
VS 4c ***253
151AnthraxE7 6b *2
152QuietusE4 6b *1
153Toss off
-
HVS 5a 19
154Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a *43
155Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 72
156Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 7
157La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 5
158Gold RingsVS 4c 6
159Grot
-
S 5
160KarenS 4
161Karen Right HandHVS 5a 2
 Bouldering 
163Blade Runnerf7A ***5
164Armageddon
-
f7A+ **4
165Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ **6
166Zenaf7A+ 2
167The Green Wing
-
f7B **10
168The Mantlef6C **2
169The Singing Postmanf6C * 
170Chips OriginalV0- 1
171Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
172Hades StartV0- 5
173Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
174Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
175Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
176Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
177Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
178Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
179Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
180Lay Away RHV4 *4
181Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
182Warm Up
-
f4 *7
183Slopey TraverseV5 2
184PodV0+ 1
185Pod AreteV2 1
186Pod ReachV4 1
187Hand Crackf4 *2
188Slab and Rooff4 2
189Block Wallf6B *3
190Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
191Central Routef5 **5
192Right Edgef4 *3
193Rising Moonf6B 1
194Pocket Jugsf5 *8
195Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 1
196Crimp Wall
-
f5 1
197Pocket
-
f5 1
198Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
199Fresh Traversef4 1
200Fleshf6A+ *1
201Slopersf6C **2
202Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
203Quaint Groovef6C ***2
204Halle Baildonf6C+ ***1
205Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
206Jug Problemf5 *2
207Wombling Edgef6B 2
208Womble Pocketf5+ 2
209Wave Aretef6C *2
210Grit Arete
-
f5 **1
211the Oik
-
f6A+ **1
212Heave Onef6A 1
213Bitter
-
f6B *1
214Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 
215Fat Larry White
-
f7C *1
 New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted 
217The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
218Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *4
219Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
220T'Empire strikes backE2 5c * 
221LocalmotionE2 5b  
222Throw Another Sheep on the Fire *
-
E7 6b * 
223No Surrender *
-
E8 7a ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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