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These details were last updated on 09/Apr/2012

Baildon Bank

West Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 180 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a hard sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1KarenS 1
2GrotS 4
3Gold RingsVS 4c 3
4La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 2
5Pearly GatesS 4a 54
6Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
7Nude GrooveHVS 5a *32
8AnthraxE7 6b *1
9Toss offHVS 5a 11
10HadesVS 4c ***158
11EpitaphHS 4a **158
12Epitaph DirectVS 4b **98
13Future TimesE1 5b 20
14Going for OnenessE1 5b 1
15RamE1 5b *22
16Pinnacle FlakeS 5
17ChimneyD 3
18RipS 4a 77
19Big CurverHVS 5b *36
20LeewayVS 4c 6
21SlitHVS 5b 3
22MoriaE2 5c **37
23IntrepidE6 6a **7
24The FlakesE3 5c *14
25Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
26ScarE2 5c ***121
27Scar WallE5 6b *13
28Paddy's RouteVS 4b 57
29Twin CracksS 4a 19
30Rocking ChimneyVD 11
31Red WallHVS 5c 1
32PromenadeM 22
33Layback CrackVD 45
34AdamskiMVS 4b 7
35Pea PodS 4a 24
36Whillan's AreteVS 4c **45
37Cold BumS 1
38Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
39Yellow WayS 7
40Lay AwayVS 5a 12
41CavernVD 1
42Flake CrackHS 4a 2
43Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
44Sensational ExposureM **18
45Bramble CrackVS 4c **59
46The FinHVS 5a 3
47Sabre CrackMVS 4b 1
48Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
49Born FreeS 22
50BlackVD 79
51AndS 4a 69
52TanVD 76
53DoodleVS 5a 33
54ConchHS 4b **157
55HornS 6
56RufVS 5a 20
57No TopVS 4c 1
58Heaven CornerS 1
59Agnostic's AreteS 4a **66
60MissoutE1 5a 34
61To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 5
62Half CrackMVS 4b 2
63The Great AdventureHVS 5a *2
64Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
65JammyS 4
66HMS AmethystS 4a **124
67JoannaVS 5a ***114
68ArufeMVS 4c *20
69AnnudarufeVS 4c 8
70PoisonS 4a 21
71Last DayHVS 5a 10
 Climb nameGradex
72Heave TooE3 6b *1
73Jericho WallVD 15
74Curving CracksHVS 5b 8
75PillarMVS 4b 13
76Stubby LegsVS 4c 1
77Do KnotHVS 5a 2
78FingersE1 5c  
79Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
80SwingoverE3 5c ***6
81Wombling WallE4 6a ***5
82Prairie StepsS 4a **100
83Count UpVD 8
84Potch WallVS 1
85Hotch CrackD 3
86Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
87Banana GrooveS 2
88Bee StingHVS 4c 3
89Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 4
90Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
91Coronation StreetS 4a 16
92All Fall DownS 4a 1
93MashS 4
94South WallHVS 5c 1
95BygonesVD 8
96The BlobD 2
97Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
98Broken OffVD 7
99CrackerHS 4a 4
100SatireE2 5b ***7
101Descent RouteM 2
102BlockheadVD 3
103DiffD 2
104ArkansasS 1
105Cleanstone WallE1 5c *2
106Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
107V RouteS 1
108ViperVS 4c *8
109Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *4
110TriangHVS 5a *13
111DesperadoE3 6a **1
112Anne of CleavesE3 5c **3
 BOULDERING  
114Blade Runnerf7A ***1
115Armageddonf7A+ **2
116Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **3
117Zenaf7A+ 1
118The Green Wingf7B **5
119The Mantlef6C **2
120The Singing Postmanf6C * 
121Chips OriginalV0- 1
122Epitaph LayawaysV0- 4
123Hades StartV0- 4
124Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
125Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 1
126Armagedon reach aroundV5 3
127Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 1
128Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *4
129Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
130Lay away: boulder startV3 **4
131Lay Away RHV4 *2
132Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 1
133Slopey TraverseV5 2
 NEW ROUTES / NOT CHECKED  
135S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
136Turk in the HoleHS 4a 2
137Ulley RightVS 4c 1
138SpiderHVS 5a 2
139GesticulationE4 6b 1
140Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
141CrucifixHVS 4c 3
142Green WallS 1
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Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell ? - 29/Jan/10

The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08