Climbs 201
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left to Right as of 2014 Guide 
 Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry 
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **10
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12Desperado
-
E3 6a **2
13Triang
-
HVS 5a *22
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *11
15Viper
-
VS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V Route
-
S 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c *5
20Arkansas
-
S 1
21DiffD 3
22Blockhead
-
VD 4
23Descent RouteM 4
 Satire Area 
25Satire
-
E2 5b ***11
26Cavern RouteS 4a *2
 Coronation Street Area 
28Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
29Camera ShakeHVS 5b 2
30Broken Off
-
VD 9
31The Blob
-
D 3
32Bygones
-
VD 10
33South WallHVS 5c 1
34Mash
-
S 5
35All Fall Down
-
S 4a 1
36Coronation Street
-
S 4a *25
37Up and OverVS 4c 2
38Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
39Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
 Upper Quarry (Right of Steps) 
41Bee StingHVS 5a 5
42Banana GrooveS 3
43Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 5
44Hotch Crack
-
D 3
45Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
46Count Up
-
VD 13
47Prairie StepsHVD 4a **148
48Wombling WallE4 6a ***12
49SwingoverE3 5c ***16
50Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
51Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 5
52FingersE1 5c  
53Green WallS 1
54Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 5
55Ramp
-
HVS 5a 5
56Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
57Pillar
-
MVS 4b 22
58Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 12
59Jericho Wall
-
VD 20
60Jumper
-
HVS 4c 1
61Pullover
-
VS 4c 5
62Heave TooE3 6b *1
63Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 4
 Joanna Area 
65Jeanette
-
S  
66Last Day
-
HVS 5a 11
67Poison
-
S 4a *44
68Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 12
69Annudarufe (central start)VS 5a 1
70Arufe
-
MVS 4c *30
71Joanna
-
VS 5a ***183
72HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a **184
73Jammy
-
S 10
 Conch Area 
75No TopVS 4c 2
76Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 2
77Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 6
78To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
79Missout
-
E1 5a 41
80Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b **109
81RufVS 5a 29
82ConchHS 4b **267
83Doodle
-
VS 5a 42
84Tan
-
VD 99
85In BetweenVS 5a 4
86And
-
S 4a 91
87Black
-
VD 101
88Born Free
-
HS 4b 28
 'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area 
90CrucifixHVS 4c 3
91Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
92S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
93Matey's CrackVS 4c 5
94Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
95ChipperE3 5b *3
96Cool TricksterE5 5c **3
97Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **3
98The FinHVS 5a 4
99Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c **84
100Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
101Sensational Exposure
-
M **23
102Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
103Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 3
104Cavern
-
VD 3
105Yellow WayS 8
106Layaway
-
VS 4c 12
 Box Quarry (Abandon all hope) 
108Cold Bum
-
S 1
109Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
110Saw OffE2 5c 1
111Spider
-
HVS 5a 2
112Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 Left to Right main crag Continued 
 Scar Buttress 
115Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a **67
116Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 32
117Adamski
-
MVS 4b 7
118Layback Crack
-
VD 57
119Promenade
-
M 31
120Red WallHVS 5c 1
121Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 16
122Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 27
123Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 96
124GesticulationE4 6b 3
125Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
126Scar Wall
-
E5 6b *19
127ScarE2 5b ***203
128The Flakes
-
E3 5c *30
129IntrepidE6 6a **12
130Moria
-
E2 5c **82
131SlitHVS 5b 5
132LeewayHVS 5b 6
133Big Curver
-
HVS 5b *50
 Rip Buttress 
135Rip
-
HS 4a 107
 Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End 
137Chimney
-
D 4
138Pinnacle Flake
-
S 8
139Ram
-
E1 5b *34
140Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 4
141Future Times
-
E1 5b 26
142Epitaph
-
HS 4a **254
143Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b **156
144OlleyE3 5c 1
145Hades
-
VS 4c ***252
146AnthraxE7 6b *2
147QuietusE4 6b *1
148Toss off
-
HVS 5a 18
149Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a *41
150Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 71
151Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 7
152La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 5
153Gold RingsVS 4c 6
154Grot
-
S 5
155KarenS 3
156Karen Right HandHVS 5a 2
 Bouldering 
158Blade Runnerf7A ***5
159Armageddon
-
f7A+ **4
160Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ **6
161Zenaf7A+ 2
162The Green Wing
-
f7B **10
163The Mantlef6C **2
164The Singing Postmanf6C * 
165Chips OriginalV0- 1
166Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
167Hades StartV0- 5
168Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
169Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
170Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
171Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
172Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
173Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
174Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
175Lay Away RHV4 *4
176Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
177Warm Up
-
f4 *6
178Slopey TraverseV5 2
179PodV0+ 1
180Pod AreteV2 1
181Pod ReachV4 1
182Hand Crackf4 *2
183Slab and Rooff4 2
184Block Wallf6B *3
185Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
186Central Routef5 **5
187Right Edgef4 *2
188Rising Moonf6B 1
189Pocket Jugsf5 *7
190Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 1
191Crimp Wall
-
f5 1
192Pocket
-
f5 1
193Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
194Fresh Traversef4 1
195Fleshf6A+ *1
196Slopersf6C **2
197Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
198Quaint Groovef6C ***2
199Halle Baildonf6C+ ***1
200Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
201Jug Problemf5 *2
202Wombling Edgef6B 2
203Womble Pocketf5+ 2
204Wave Aretef6C *2
205Grit Arete
-
f5 **1
206the Oik
-
f6A+ **1
207Heave Onef6A 1
208Bitter
-
f6B *1
209Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 
210Fat Larry White
-
f7C *1
 New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted 
212The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
213Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *4
214Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
215T'Empire strikes backE2 5c * 
216LocalmotionE2 5b  

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