Baildon Bank

Climbs 196 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT TO RIGHT AS OF 2014 GUIDE  
 LOWER QUARRY/ ANNE OF CLEAVES / CRICKETER'S QUARRY  
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **9
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12DesperadoE3 6a **2
13TriangHVS 5a *20
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *9
15ViperVS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V RouteS 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone WallE1 5c *5
20ArkansasS 1
21DiffD 3
22BlockheadVD 4
23Descent RouteM 4
 SATIRE AREA  
25SatireE2 5b ***8
26Cavern RouteS 4a *1
 CORONATION STREET AREA  
28CrackerHS 4a 4
29Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
30Broken OffVD 9
31The BlobD 3
32BygonesVD 10
33South WallHVS 5c 1
34MashS 5
35All Fall DownS 4a 1
36Coronation StreetS 4a *20
37Up and OverVS 4c 1
38Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 7
39Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
 UPPER QUARRY (RIGHT OF STEPS)  
41Bee StingHVS 5a 4
42Banana GrooveS 3
43Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
44Hotch CrackD 3
45Potch WallVS 4b 1
46Count UpVD 8
47Prairie StepsHVD 4a **117
48Wombling WallE4 6a ***10
49SwingoverE3 5c ***9
50Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
51Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 3
52FingersE1 5c  
53Green WallS 1
54Do KnotHVS 5a 4
55RampHVS 5a 4
56Stubby LegsVS 4c 3
57PillarMVS 4b 17
58Curving CracksHVS 5b 11
59Jericho WallVD 20
60JumperHVS 4c 1
61PulloverVS 4c 4
62Heave TooE3 6b *1
63Turd in the HoleHS 4b 3
 JOANNA AREA  
65JeanetteS  
66Last DayHVS 5a 10
67PoisonS 4a *27
68AnnudarufeVS 4c 10
69ArufeMVS 4c *25
70JoannaVS 5a ***147
71HMS AmethystS 4a **151
72JammyS 7
 CONCH AREA  
74No TopVS 4c 1
75Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
76Half CrackMVS 4b 5
77To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
78MissoutE1 5a 36
79Agnostic's AreteHS 4b **83
80RufVS 5a 22
81ConchHS 4b **212
82DoodleVS 5a 39
83TanVD 86
84AndS 4a 80
85BlackVD 86
86Born FreeHS 4b 25
 'BRAMBLE CRACK'/'LAST EDGE' AREA  
88CrucifixHVS 4c 3
89Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
90S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
91Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
92Sabre CrackMVS 4b 2
93ChipperE3 5b *3
94Cool TricksterE5 5c **2
95Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **2
96The FinHVS 5a 3
97Bramble CrackVS 4c **71
98Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
99Sensational ExposureM **21
100Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
101Flake CrackHS 4b 3
102CavernVD 3
103Yellow WayS 7
104LayawayVS 4c 12
 BOX QUARRY (ABANDON ALL HOPE)  
106Cold BumS 1
107Ulley RightVS 4c 1
108Saw OffE2 5c 1
109SpiderHVS 5a 2
110Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 LEFT TO RIGHT MAIN CRAG CONTINUED  
 SCAR BUTTRESS  
113Whillan's AreteHVS 5a **54
114Pea PodHS 4b 28
115AdamskiMVS 4b 7
116Layback CrackVD 51
117PromenadeM 24
118Red WallHVS 5c 1
119Rocking ChimneyHVD 4a 12
120Twin CracksS 4b 21
121Paddy's RouteVS 4b 83
122GesticulationE4 6b 3
123Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
124Scar WallE5 6b *15
125ScarE2 5b ***160
126The FlakesE3 5c *24
127IntrepidE6 6a **10
128MoriaE2 5c **58
129SlitHVS 5b 5
130LeewayHVS 5b 6
131Big CurverHVS 5b *44
 RIP BUTTRESS  
133RipHS 4a 91
 EPITAPH / HADES AREA TO RIGHT HAND END  
135ChimneyD 4
136Pinnacle FlakeS 7
137RamE1 5b *25
138Going for OnenessE1 5b 3
139Future TimesE1 5b 24
140EpitaphHS 4a **204
141Epitaph DirectVS 4b **121
142OlleyE3 5c 1
143HadesVS 4c ***207
144AnthraxE7 6b *2
145QuietusE4 6b *1
146Toss offHVS 5a 12
147Nude GrooveHVS 5a *34
148Pearly GatesHS 4a 61
149Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
150La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 4
151Gold RingsVS 4c 6
152GrotS 5
153KarenS 3
154Karen Right HandHVS 5a 1
 BOULDERING  
156Blade Runnerf7A ***5
157Armageddonf7A+ **4
158Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **5
159Zenaf7A+ 1
160The Green Wingf7B **8
161The Mantlef6C **2
162The Singing Postmanf6C * 
163Chips OriginalV0- 1
164Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
165Hades StartV0- 5
166Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
167Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
168Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
169Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
170Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
171Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
172Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
173Lay Away RHV4 *4
174Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
175Warm Upf4 *4
176Slopey TraverseV5 2
177PodV0+ 1
178Pod AreteV2 1
179Pod ReachV4 1
180Hand Crackf4 *1
181Slab and Rooff4 1
182Block Wallf6B *3
183Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
184Central Routef5 **4
185Right Edgef4 4b *2
186Rising Moonf6B 1
187Pocket Jugsf5 *5
188Crispy Wallf5+ 1
189Crimp Wallf5 1
190Pocketf5 1
191Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
192Fresh Traversef4 1
193Fleshf6A+ *1
194Slopersf6C **1
195Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
196Quaint Groovef6C ***2
197Halle Baildonf6C+ *** 
198Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
199Jug Problemf5 *1
200Wombling Edgef6B 2
201Womble Pocketf5+ 2
202Wave Aretef6C *2
203Grit Aretef5 **1
204the Oikf6A+ **1
205Heave Onef6A 1
206Bitterf6B *1
207Refuse to Mambof7A ** 
 NEW ROUTES / NOT CHECKED / SORTED  
209The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
210Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *2
211Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08