Baildon Bank

Climbs 192 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT TO RIGHT AS OF 2014 GUIDE  
 LOWER QUARRY/ ANNE OF CLEAVES / CRICKETER'S QUARRY  
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c  
8FuturamaVS 4c 1
9Anne of CleavesE3 5c **6
10LightningHVS 5b 1
11DesperadoE3 6a **2
12TriangHVS 5a *17
13Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *7
14ViperVS 4c *9
15V RouteS 1
16Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
17Cleanstone WallE1 5c *3
18ArkansasS 1
19DiffD 3
20BlockheadVD 4
21Descent RouteM 3
 SATIRE AREA  
23SatireE2 5b ***8
 CORONATION STREET AREA  
25CrackerHS 4a 4
26Camera ShakeHVS 5b 1
27Broken OffVD 9
28The BlobD 3
29BygonesVD 10
30South WallHVS 5c 1
31MashS 5
32All Fall DownS 4a 1
33Coronation StreetS 4a *19
34Monkey PuzzleVS 4c 6
35Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b 2
 UPPER QUARRY (RIGHT OF STEPS)  
37Bee StingHVS 5a 4
38Banana GrooveS 3
39Quaint Rock WallS 4a 5
40Hotch CrackD 3
41Potch WallVS 4b 1
42Count UpVD 8
43Prairie StepsHVD 4a **115
44Wombling WallE4 6a ***9
45SwingoverE3 5c ***9
46Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
47Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 3
48FingersE1 5c  
49Green WallS 1
50Do KnotHVS 5a 4
51RampHVS 5a 4
52Stubby LegsVS 4c 3
53PillarMVS 4b 17
54Curving CracksHVS 5b 11
55Jericho WallVD 20
56JumperHVS 4c 1
57PulloverVS 4c 4
58Heave TooE3 6b *1
59Turd in the HoleHS 4b 3
 JOANNA AREA  
61JeanetteS  
62Last DayHVS 5a 10
63PoisonS 4a *25
64AnnudarufeVS 4c 10
65ArufeMVS 4c *24
66JoannaVS 5a ***140
67HMS AmethystS 4a **149
68JammyS 7
 CONCH AREA  
70No TopVS 4c 1
71Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c 2
72Half CrackMVS 4b 4
73To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
74MissoutE1 5a 36
75Agnostic's AreteHS 4b **81
76RufVS 5a 22
77ConchHS 4b **205
78DoodleVS 5a 39
79TanVD 84
80AndS 4a 79
81BlackVD 84
82Born FreeHS 4b 24
 'BRAMBLE CRACK'/'LAST EDGE' AREA  
84CrucifixHVS 4c 3
85Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
86S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
87Matey's CrackVS 4c 4
88Sabre CrackMVS 4b 2
89ChipperE3 5b *1
90Cool TricksterE5 5c **2
91Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **1
92The FinHVS 5a 3
93Bramble CrackVS 4c **67
94Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
95Sensational ExposureM **20
96Adam's AppleHS 4b 1
97Flake CrackHS 4b 3
98CavernVD 3
99Yellow WayS 7
100LayawayVS 4c 12
 BOX QUARRY (ABANDON ALL HOPE)  
102Cold BumS 1
103Ulley RightVS 4c 1
104Saw OffE2 5c 1
105SpiderHVS 5a 2
106Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 LEFT TO RIGHT MAIN CRAG CONTINUED  
 SCAR BUTTRESS  
109Whillan's AreteHVS 5a **51
110Pea PodHS 4b 27
111AdamskiMVS 4b 7
112Layback CrackVD 49
113PromenadeM 24
114Red WallHVS 5c 1
115Rocking ChimneyHVD 4a 12
116Twin CracksS 4b 21
117Paddy's RouteVS 4b 79
118GesticulationE4 6b 3
119Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
120Scar WallE5 6b *15
121ScarE2 5b ***154
122The FlakesE3 5c *24
123IntrepidE6 6a **9
124MoriaE2 5c **53
125SlitHVS 5b 5
126LeewayHVS 5b 6
127Big CurverHVS 5b *42
 RIP BUTTRESS  
129RipHS 4a 89
 EPITAPH / HADES AREA TO RIGHT HAND END  
131ChimneyD 4
132Pinnacle FlakeS 7
133RamE1 5b *25
134Going for OnenessE1 5b 3
135Future TimesE1 5b 22
136EpitaphHS 4a **197
137Epitaph DirectVS 4b **114
138OlleyE3 5c 1
139HadesVS 4c ***198
140AnthraxE7 6b *2
141QuietusE4 6b *1
142Toss offHVS 5a 11
143Nude GrooveHVS 5a *34
144Pearly GatesHS 4a 60
145Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 6
146La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 4
147Gold RingsVS 4c 5
148GrotS 5
149KarenS 3
150Karen Right HandHVS 5a 1
 BOULDERING  
152Blade Runnerf7A ***5
153Armageddonf7A+ **4
154Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **5
155Zenaf7A+ 1
156The Green Wingf7B **8
157The Mantlef6C **2
158The Singing Postmanf6C * 
159Chips OriginalV0- 1
160Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
161Hades StartV0- 5
162Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
163Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
164Armagedon reach aroundV5 4
165Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
166Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
167Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
168Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
169Lay Away RHV4 *4
170Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
171Warm Upf4 *4
172Slopey TraverseV5 2
173PodV0+ 1
174Pod AreteV2 1
175Pod ReachV4 1
176Hand Crackf4 *1
177Slab and Rooff4 1
178Block Wallf6B *3
179Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
180Central Routef5 **4
181Right Edgef4 4b *2
182Rising Moonf6B 1
183Pocket Jugsf5 *5
184Crispy Wallf5+ 1
185Crimp Wallf5 1
186Pocketf5 1
187Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
188Fresh Traversef4 1
189Fleshf6A+ *1
190Slopersf6C **1
191Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
192Quaint Groovef6C ***1
193Halle Baildonf6C+ *** 
194Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
195Jug Problemf5 *1
196Wombling Edgef6B 1
197Womble Pocketf5+ 1
198Wave Aretef6C *2
199Grit Aretef5 **1
200the Oikf6A+ **1
201Heave Onef6A 1
202Bitterf6B *1
203Refuse to Mambof7A ** 
 NEW ROUTES / NOT CHECKED / SORTED  
205The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
206Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *2
207Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08