Baildon Bank

Climbs 180 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a hard sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Access notes
2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
3Karen Right HandE1 5a
5Gold RingsVS 4c
6La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c
7Pearly GatesS 4a
8Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b
9Nude GrooveHVS 5a *
10AnthraxE7 6b *
11Toss offHVS 5a
12HadesVS 4c ***
13EpitaphHS 4a **
14Epitaph DirectVS 4b **
15Future TimesE1 5b
16Going for OnenessE1 5b
17RamE1 5b *
18Pinnacle FlakeS
20RipS 4a
21Big CurverHVS 5b *
22LeewayVS 4c
23SlitHVS 5b
24MoriaE2 5c **
25IntrepidE6 6a **
26The FlakesE3 5c *
27Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *
28ScarE2 5c ***
29Scar WallE5 6b *
30Paddy's RouteVS 4b
31Twin CracksS 4a
32Rocking ChimneyVD
33Red WallHVS 5c
35Layback CrackVD
36AdamskiMVS 4b
37Pea PodS 4a
38Whillan's AreteVS 4c **
40Syrett's CrackE2 5c
41Saw OffHVS 5b
43Cold BumS
44Yellow WayS
45Lay AwayVS 5a
47Flake CrackHS 4a
48Adam's AppleHS 4b
49Sensational ExposureM **
50Bramble CrackVS 4c **
51The FinHVS 5a
52Sabre CrackMVS 4b
53Matey's CrackVS 4c
54Born FreeS
56AndS 4a
58DoodleVS 5a
59ConchHS 4b **
61RufVS 5a
62No TopVS 4c
63Heaven CornerS
64Agnostic's AreteS 4a **
65MissoutE1 5a
66To A Reckless FlashE4 6a
67Half CrackMVS 4b
68The Great AdventureHVS 5a *
69Dan Dan the Fighting ManVS 4c
71HMS AmethystS 4a **
72JoannaVS 5a ***
73ArufeMVS 4c *
74AnnudarufeVS 4c
75PoisonS 4a
76Last DayHVS 5a
77Turk in the HoleHS 4a
78Heave TooE3 6b *
79PulloverVS 4c
80Jericho WallVD
81Curving CracksHVS 5b
82PillarMVS 4b
83Stubby LegsVS 4c
84Do KnotHVS 5a
85FingersE1 5c
86Rampart AreteE2 5c *
87Back Crack CornerMVS 4b
88SwingoverE3 5c ***
89Wombling WallE4 6a ***
90Prairie StepsS 4a **
91Count UpVD
92Potch WallVS
93Hotch CrackD
94Quaint Rock WallS 4a
95Banana GrooveS
96Bee StingHVS 4c
97Monkey PuzzleVS 4c
98Monkey Puzzle Left Hand FinishHS 4b
99Coronation StreetS 4a
100All Fall DownS 4a
102South WallHVS 5c
104The BlobD
105Camera ShakeHVS 5b
106Broken OffVD
107CrackerHS 4a
108SatireE2 5b ***
110Descent RouteM
114Cleanstone WallE1 5c *
115Lost GoldHVS 5a
116V RouteS
117ViperVS 4c *
118Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *
119TriangHVS 5a *
120DesperadoE3 6a **
121HemispheresHVS 5b
122Anne of CleavesE3 5c **
123EnterpriseE2 6a
124BipodMVS 4c
125Hergest RidgeE4 5c
126FuturamaVS 4c
127LightningHVS 5b
128Carnival CarouselHVS 5a
130Blade Runnerf7A ***
131Armageddonf7A+ **
132Who Are We Without Moonf7A+ **
134The Green Wingf7B **
135The Mantlef6C **
136The Singing Postmanf6C *
137Chips OriginalV0-
138Epitaph LayawaysV0-
139Hades StartV0-
140Huffin' and puffin'f7B **
141Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5
142Armagedon reach aroundV5
143Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+
144Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *
145Hades Traverse LowV5 *
146Lay away: boulder startV3 **
147Lay Away RHV4 *
148Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3
149Slopey TraverseV5
151S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *
152Ulley RightVS 4c
153SpiderHVS 5a
154GesticulationE4 6b
155Steel MonkeyE1 5b
156CrucifixHVS 4c
157Green WallS
158Petrol Powered Garden ToolsE1 5b *
159OlleyE3 5c
160RampHVS 5a
161JumperHVS 4c
162QuietusE3 6b *
163ChipperE3 5b *
164Cool TricksterE5 5c **
165Congressman DilbeckE6 6b/c **
166Last EdgeE5 6b ***
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Nov/2014

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