Climbs 200
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic Baildon experience. Matt on Whillan’s Arete (VS 4c), kids from local estate © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Baildon Bank, loved and hated by generations of climbers in equal measure, is a 'hard' sandstone quarried crag with occasional capping blocks of non-quarried gritstone. A wry sense of humour is a must for climbers partaking of its many delights, and with good reason: sensational routes with divine and majestic sequences do have a notoriety for turning into worrying Elvis-leg bonazas and games of that favourite local pastime 'throw hand-holds from the crag' are all too often unwittingly commenced. Saharan top-outs which shower would-be eagles with sand and dust also tend to add food for thought. However, let us not be mistaken, Baildon Bank provides some of the finest climbs in the local area. There is an even spread of grades, with lower to middle grade routes like Hades (VS) and Epitaph (HS) - both 20m - smashing many of the '100 Classic Climbs in Yorkshire and the Peak District' routes out of the water. As for the Extremes, many are as good as you are likely to find anywhere in Yorkshire. Okay, Almscliffe might not give you the spray paint vandalism, broken bottles, little urchins from the local estate hanging around and so forth, but hey, the pubs are a lot closer to the crag! While the Roaches have that air of Whillans and Brown, so too does Baildon Bank have the imprint of legend Ian Clough, follow in his footsteps... if his holds are still attached that is.

South facing, Baildon Bank is one of the warmest of West Yorkshire crags, and tends to remain fairly sheltered from strong winds. Back in the day someone thought it was a good idea to paint the numbers of the routes on the crag, then many were subsequently repainted with different numbers, these can prove extremely confusing to Baildon Bank rookies - try to ignore them, they tend to bear no relation to anything useful regardless of which Yorkshire Gritstone guide you are using.

Approach notes

2 minutes from the road. Park on Green Lane 200m after Cliffe Ave branches off. Easy to trundle along the crag picking lines. Except the bottom Quarry, which is overgrown and mostly hidden in the trees above the Cricketer's Arms (BD17 7NE) and the infamous Box Quarry which was last visited by Percy Harrison Fawcett during his search for Eldorado in the 1920s, needless to say, he did not return.

One of Yorkshire Grit's best kept secrets.
Ewan Russell - 29/Jan/10
The bank is situated half way up a hill on the way to Baildon moor. You get there by taking a left at the pub (sorry can't remember the name) before you get into Baildon proper on the main road, then parking on the road below the crag. There's then a five minute walk up to the rock. The paths not too clear but it's pretty much opposite a playground. The banks not made of the best grit and in places it's just dangerous; on the right hand end (as you look at the crag) there are some really nice routes though. Well worth a stop on the way to Shipley glen.
djberry - 17/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left to Right as of 2014 Guide 
 Lower Quarry/ Anne of Cleaves / Cricketer's Quarry 
3EnterpriseE2 6a 1
4HemispheresHVS 5b 1
5BipodMVS 4b 1
6Carnival CarouselHVS 5a 1
7Hergest RidgeE4 5c 3
8BlinkersE5 6b 2
9FuturamaVS 4c 3
10Anne of CleavesE3 5c **10
11LightningHVS 5b 1
12Desperado
-
E3 6a **2
13Triang
-
HVS 5a *21
14Mandy Fly MeE2 5b *11
15Viper
-
VS 4c *13
16Adder FinishE2 5c 1
17V Route
-
S 1
18Lost GoldHVS 5a 4
19Cleanstone Wall
-
E1 5c *5
20Arkansas
-
S 1
21DiffD 3
22Blockhead
-
VD 4
23Descent RouteM 4
 Satire Area 
25Satire
-
E2 5b ***11
26Cavern RouteS 4a *2
 Coronation Street Area 
28Cracker
-
HS 4a 4
29Camera ShakeHVS 5b 2
30Broken Off
-
VD 9
31The Blob
-
D 3
32Bygones
-
VD 10
33South WallHVS 5c 1
34Mash
-
S 5
35All Fall Down
-
S 4a 1
36Coronation Street
-
S 4a *25
37Up and OverVS 4c 2
38Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c 9
39Monkey Puzzle Left Hand Finish
-
HS 4b 2
 Upper Quarry (Right of Steps) 
41Bee StingHVS 5a 5
42Banana GrooveS 3
43Quaint Rock Wall
-
S 4a 5
44Hotch Crack
-
D 3
45Potch Wall
-
VS 4b 2
46Count Up
-
VD 13
47Prairie StepsHVD 4a **134
48Wombling WallE4 6a ***11
49SwingoverE3 5c ***11
50Rampart AreteE2 5c *2
51Back Crack CornerMVS 4b 5
52FingersE1 5c  
53Green WallS 1
54Do Knot
-
HVS 5a 5
55Ramp
-
HVS 5a 5
56Stubby Legs
-
VS 4c 4
57Pillar
-
MVS 4b 20
58Curving Cracks
-
HVS 5b 12
59Jericho Wall
-
VD 20
60Jumper
-
HVS 4c 1
61Pullover
-
VS 4c 5
62Heave TooE3 6b *1
63Turd in the Hole
-
HS 4b 4
 Joanna Area 
65Jeanette
-
S  
66Last Day
-
HVS 5a 11
67Poison
-
S 4a *38
68Annudarufe
-
VS 4c 11
69Arufe
-
MVS 4c *28
70Joanna
-
VS 5a ***169
71HMS Amethyst
-
S 4a **172
72Jammy
-
S 10
 Conch Area 
74No TopVS 4c 1
75Dan Dan the Fighting Man
-
VS 4c 2
76Half Crack
-
MVS 4b 6
77To A Reckless FlashE4 6a 7
78Missout
-
E1 5a 40
79Agnostic's Arete
-
HS 4b **100
80RufVS 5a 27
81ConchHS 4b **245
82Doodle
-
VS 5a 41
83Tan
-
VD 94
84In BetweenVS 5a 3
85And
-
S 4a 86
86Black
-
VD 95
87Born Free
-
HS 4b 27
 'Bramble Crack'/'Last Edge' Area 
89CrucifixHVS 4c 3
90Steel MonkeyE1 5b 2
91S.M.I.L.EE5 6a *2
92Matey's CrackVS 4c 5
93Sabre Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
94ChipperE3 5b *3
95Cool TricksterE5 5c **3
96Congressman DilbeckE6 6c **3
97The FinHVS 5a 4
98Bramble Crack
-
VS 4c **75
99Last EdgeE5 6b ***2
100Sensational Exposure
-
M **23
101Adam's Apple
-
HS 4b 1
102Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 3
103Cavern
-
VD 3
104Yellow WayS 8
105Layaway
-
VS 4c 12
 Box Quarry (Abandon all hope) 
107Cold Bum
-
S 1
108Ulley Right
-
VS 4c 1
109Saw OffE2 5c 1
110Spider
-
HVS 5a 2
111Syrett's CrackE2 5c 1
 Left to Right main crag Continued 
 Scar Buttress 
114Whillan's Arete
-
HVS 5a **57
115Pea Pod
-
HS 4b 31
116Adamski
-
MVS 4b 7
117Layback Crack
-
VD 57
118Promenade
-
M 29
119Red WallHVS 5c 1
120Rocking Chimney
-
HVD 4a 16
121Twin Cracks
-
S 4b 25
122Paddy's Route
-
VS 4b 92
123GesticulationE4 6b 3
124Fizzicle FizzleE3 5c *1
125Scar Wall
-
E5 6b *19
126ScarE2 5b ***185
127The Flakes
-
E3 5c *26
128IntrepidE6 6a **11
129Moria
-
E2 5c **74
130SlitHVS 5b 5
131LeewayHVS 5b 6
132Big Curver
-
HVS 5b *48
 Rip Buttress 
134Rip
-
HS 4a 96
 Epitaph / Hades Area to Right Hand End 
136Chimney
-
D 4
137Pinnacle Flake
-
S 8
138Ram
-
E1 5b *33
139Going for Oneness
-
E1 5b 4
140Future Times
-
E1 5b 26
141Epitaph
-
HS 4a **225
142Epitaph Direct
-
VS 4b **144
143OlleyE3 5c 1
144Hades
-
VS 4c ***232
145AnthraxE7 6b *2
146QuietusE4 6b *1
147Toss off
-
HVS 5a 15
148Nude Groove
-
HVS 5a *41
149Pearly Gates
-
HS 4a 66
150Pearly Gates (alternative finish)E1 5b 7
151La Cathedralle (DANGER WARNING)VS 4c 5
152Gold RingsVS 4c 6
153Grot
-
S 5
154KarenS 3
155Karen Right HandHVS 5a 2
 Bouldering 
157Blade Runnerf7A ***5
158Armageddon
-
f7A+ **4
159Who Are We Without Moon
-
f7A+ **6
160Zenaf7A+ 2
161The Green Wing
-
f7B **10
162The Mantlef6C **2
163The Singing Postmanf6C * 
164Chips OriginalV0- 1
165Epitaph LayawaysV0- 5
166Hades StartV0- 5
167Huffin' and puffin'f7B ** 
168Problem 5 - Hades roof areaV5 2
169Armagedon reach aroundV5 5
170Problem 14 - Hades roof areaV0+ 2
171Problem 8: Hades Roof AreaV5 *5
172Hades Traverse LowV5 *2
173Lay away: boulder startV3 **6
174Lay Away RHV4 *4
175Problem 16 - Hades roof areaV3 2
176Warm Up
-
f4 *6
177Slopey TraverseV5 2
178PodV0+ 1
179Pod AreteV2 1
180Pod ReachV4 1
181Hand Crackf4 *2
182Slab and Rooff4 2
183Block Wallf6B *3
184Block Wall Traversef5+ **3
185Central Routef5 **4
186Right Edgef4 *2
187Rising Moonf6B 1
188Pocket Jugsf5 *7
189Crispy Wall
-
f5+ 1
190Crimp Wall
-
f5 1
191Pocket
-
f5 1
192Fresh Prince of Bail Airef6B **1
193Fresh Traversef4 1
194Fleshf6A+ *1
195Slopersf6C **2
196Nude Groove startf6B+ *1
197Quaint Groovef6C ***2
198Halle Baildonf6C+ ***1
199Left Arete (Rhombic Block)f6A 2
200Jug Problemf5 *2
201Wombling Edgef6B 2
202Womble Pocketf5+ 2
203Wave Aretef6C *2
204Grit Arete
-
f5 **1
205the Oik
-
f6A+ **1
206Heave Onef6A 1
207Bitter
-
f6B *1
208Refuse to Mambo
-
f7A ** 
209Fat Larry White
-
f7C *1
 New Routes / Not Checked / Sorted 
211The Great AdventureHVS 5a 2
212Petrol Powered Garden Tools [Rip Direct?]E1 5b *4
213Low Right EdgeMVS 4c 2
214T'Empire strikes backE2 5c * 
215LocalmotionE2 5b  

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