Bowles Rocks

Climbs 263 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 109m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Better routes include Fandango (5c), Digitalis (6a) and The Thing (6b). Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a small charge of £4 for adults before 5pm, £3 after 5pm and £2 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is a one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Access notes
From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going twds Crowborough.

No leading. Extend toprope belays to avoid damage to rock.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CHALET SLAB AREA  
2Holly Tree Problemf3+ 4c 3
3Heidinone 5a 2
4Unnamed Mantleshelfnone 5a 3
5British Bulldognone 4c 3
6Bull's Nosenone 4c 10
7Toreadornone 5c 1
8Badger's Headnone 4b 13
9Unnamednone 2a 4
10Hibiscusnone 3b 5
11Helter Skelternone 5a 10
12Chalet Slab Leftnone 3b *52
13Chalet Slab Directnone 5c *26
14Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off)none 4b *24
15Chalet Slab Rightnone 5b 28
16Mohrenkopnone 5c *8
17Two Stepnone 5b 1
 NETWALL AREA (AMPHITHEATRE LEFT)  
19Roman Nosenone 4b 9
20Umbilicusnone 5c *12
21Fallen Angelsnone 6a 1
22Geoff's Routenone 6b 1
23Geoffrey Moon Esquiref6A 6b  
24Blue Moonnone 6a 1
25991.8 Daysnone 6a 1
26Court's Climbnone 4c 5
27Grotty Groovenone 2a 18
28Running Jumpnone 2b 40
29Scirocco Slabnone 4b *73
30Scirocco Variationsnone 5a 11
31Netwallnone 4a *94
32Net Surfingnone 4a 13
33Corner Laybacknone 4c 68
34Zoomnone 6b 2
35Santa's Clawsnone 4c 55
36Knucklebonesnone 6b 1
37Coast to Coastnone 6b  
38The Firmnone 6a 1
39Chelsea Chimneynone 2a 14
 RECLAMATION SLAB/BANANA AREA  
41Reclaimednone 5c 3
42Reclamation Gullynone 1a 51
43Reclamation Slab Leftnone 3b *127
44Reclamation Slapnone 5c 42
45Reclamation Slipnone 5b 11
46Reclamation Slab Rightnone 2b **212
47Mental Balancenone 6a 3
48Cenotaph Corner IInone 5b 7
49High Traversenone 4c *30
50Slyme Crymenone 6a 1
51Banananone 6a **205
52Banana Hammockf6C 6b 8
53Proboscisnone 6a 1
54Drosophilanone 5b **230
55Urban Jocknone 6a 2
56Babylonnone 4b *46
57T.N.T.none 5c 13
 FANDANGO  
59Coathangernone 5c *63
60Fandango Direct Startf6A 6a *18
61Fandangonone 5c ***105
62Fandango Centralnone 6a 4
63Fandango Right Handnone 6a ***54
64Fandango Right Hand Direct Startf7A 6c 5
65Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Startf7C 7a  
66Pastry Directf7B+ 6c  
67Pastrynone 5c 5
68Poff Pastrynone 6b 2
69Tobacco Roadf6B 6a **35
70Nicotine Alleyf7A 6b 40
71Sugarplumf6A 6a 7
72Icarusnone 6a 1
73Skifflenone 3a *103
74Orr Traversenone 5c *29
75Mick's Wall Aretenone 6a 33
76Mick's Wallnone 5b 94
77London Pridenone 6c  
78Kemp's Delightnone 4b *169
79Mick's Wall Variationnone 6a 11
80Grotto Chimneynone 2b 32
 TEMPTATION AREA (AMPHITHEATRE RIGHT)  
82Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traversenone 6a *4
83Patellanone 6a *43
84Kinnardnone 6b **5
85Nutellanone 6b *3
86Temptationnone 6b ***42
87Pedestal Problemf7B 6c 5
88Digitalisnone 6a ***65
89Serenade Aretenone 6a **64
90Inspirationnone 5c **78
91The Thingnone 6b *20
92The Fridgef6C+ 6b 2
93Juanitanone 6a *47
94Sappernone 4c **259
95Sapper (Inspiration alternative)none 5b **31
96Sapper (overhang start)f5+ 5c 33
97One Nighternone 6c 2
98Burlapnone 5b **191
99Burlap Eliminatenone 6a 11
100Yoyonone 4a **286
101White Verdict/The Ly'innone 6b 30
102Meager's Right Handnone 5c 74
103Sing Singnone 3a 123
 CARBIDE FINGER AREA (THE OVERHANG)  
105Manitanone 5c 30
106Jackienone 5b *108
107Jackie Alternative Finishnone 6a 6
108Murph's Mountnone 5a *51
109Neronone 5c 20
110Salamander Slabnone 5c *25
111The Twilight Zonenone 6b  
112Cheese Sandwichnone 6a  
113Peter's Perseverancenone 5a **23
114Pegasusnone 5a ***14
115Perspirationnone 5c *67
116Boiling Pointnone 6b 1
117Them Monkey Thingsnone 6c 3
118Carbide Fingernone 6c **5
119Cardboard Boxnone 6b *25
120Bubble Wrapnone 6a  
121Thieving Gypsiesnone 6a 4
122Swastikanone 5b *22
123Nightmarenone 6a *12
124Recurring Nightmarenone 6b  
125Abracadabranone 5a 87
 RANGE WALL  
127Conjurornone 6a 29
128Karaf6B 6a 6
129Ricochetnone 4b **172
130Four-by-Twonone 5a *162
131Four-By-Two Direct Startnone 6a 6
132Pull Throughnone 5b *194
133Pull Through Direct Startnone 6a 14
134Lee Enfieldnone 5c *130
135Targetnone 5c **59
136Target Directf6A+ 6a **9
137The Big Stretchnone 5c 7
138Cave Cracknone 5a *82
139Cave Crack Nose Finishnone 5c 4
 PIG'S NOSE AREA  
141E.S. Cadet Nosenone 5b *181
142ES Cadet Nose Sit Startf6B 6a 14
143Skallagriggnone 6c 2
144Devaluationnone 5b **361
145Sandmannone 6b **66
146Charlie's Chimneynone 3a *54
147Lovenone 6a *22
148Hatenone 6a ***151
149Upside Downiesnone 6b 4
150Pig's Earnone 5c ***258
151Watson-Wattnone 6b 2
152T.T.none 5b 174
153Pig's Nosenone 5a ***513
154Kofflernone 5c 46
155Gully Wallnone 5a 25
156Birch Cracknone 1b 72
 FUNNEL AREA  
158Chrisnone 5c 46
159Kennard's Climbnone 4a *105
160Ribnone 5c 68
161Dibnone 4a *99
162Corbett Slabnone 4a *95
163Pedant's Slabnone 4c 16
164The Scouternone 3a 32
165Nelson's Columnnone 5a *125
166Dival's Diversionnone 5b *175
167Funnelnone 4a **224
168Coolcaringernone 5b 10
169UNnone 5c *91
170Chelsea Traversenone 4a 9
171Wells's Reachnone 3a **83
172The Wreckernone 6c *1
173One of Our Buzzards is Missingnone 6b *3
174Harden Gullynone 2a *64
 FRAGILE WALL AREA  
176Sylvie's Slabnone 4b *171
177Six Footnone 4c *202
178Larchantnone 5a *261
179Hennessy Heightsnone 5b *216
180August Variationnone 5c 47
181Octobernone 4c *151
182Fragile Wallnone 4a **155
183Fragile Aretenone 5a *102
184Fragile Armsf6A 6a 6
185Escalatornone 5a 48
186Elevatornone 5a 23
187Pop's Chimneynone 4b 27
188Renison Gullynone 3a 56
189Lawson Traversenone 4a *10
190The Lawson Extensionnone 5b 5
191Finalenone 6a 17
192Alkanone 4c *166
193Morpheusnone 6a 5
194Seltzernone 5b *118
195Encorenone 5c 20
196Zugabenone 6b 3
197¡Otra!none 5c 3
 EASY GULLY AREA  
199Novembernone 1b 66
200Baby Bouldernone 4b 34
201Easy Gullynone 1a 50
202Ballerinanone 3c 68
203Red Pegnone 2a 95
204Clairenone 3a 71
205Barham Bouldernone 4a 43
206Rad's Cliffnone 5a 35
207Muddy Gullynone 1a 6
208Bovrilnone 4b 58
209Wallynone 4b 46
210Wally Right Handnone 5a 10
211Oliver's Twistnone 5c 27
212Nealon'snone 4c **110
213Winstonnone 4c 1
214The Lady in Mink's Left Glovenone 6b 2
215Lady in Minknone 6a 14
216Mercator's Projectionnone 3a 2
217Healynone 3a 2
218Bennnone 5a 2
219Wilsonnone 2b 2
220Heathnone 2a 2
 BOWLES BUTTRESS  
222Pat's Progressnone 4a 3
223Dubonnetnone 4b 3
224Williams Laybacknone 2a 6
225Free Willynone 3a 5
226Indexnone 4b 4
227Index Directnone 5b 2
 GIRDLE TRAVERSE  
229Girdle Traversenone 6b **6
 UNKNOWN OR INSUFFICIENT INFORMATION  
231Unrepentant V2 5c **1
232Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disconone 5c **14
233E.S. Cadet Nose Directnone 5c 7
234Devaluation Traversef7A *3
235Thin Flakef7A **1
236Right wing bananaf6B 3
237Cardboard Box Startf6C **4
238A Process of Eliminationf6B *2
239Kennard Climb 4a 2
2403 *f3 1
241Mike's Wall Arete *f6B+ **2
242Fandango Arete *f6A **10
243Left Hand Eliminatef7A+ *2
244Left Hand Eliminate 2 *f7A *1
245Tobacco Road Extension *f6B+ *2
246Thin Flake Sit Start *f7A+ *1
247Lucky Strikef7A **1
248Chalet Slab Right (easier finish) *M 4c 2
249White Verdict *f6B  
250KalashnikovM 5b 9
251Conway's Crack *4c 1
252Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimneynone 3a 1
253Hot Cross Bun *M 1b **2
254Four by Twonone 5 **4
255Marmite *f3 4a **2
256Route 59 *V0- 3 1
257Route 60 *V0 4 1
258Route 65 *V0+ 5 1
259Route 66 *V0- 4+ 1
260Route 70 *V0- 4 1
261Route79 *V3 6a 3
262Route 118 *V0- 4 1
263Route 117 *V0 4+ 1
264Problem 42 *f6B 1
265Problem 43 *f6A+ 1
266Problem 62 *f6A+ 1
267Problem 105 *f5 1
268Problem 106 *f5+ 2
269Problem 107 *f6A 2
270Problem 108 *f6A 2
271Problem 112 *f5+ 1
272The Weed Road *f7A *1
273Maybe when you're older *f7B 4
274Problem 122 SSB *f5+ 2
275SS Boulder Problem 85 *f6A+ 1
276SS Boulder Problem 87 *f6B 1
277Phasis *f7C ***2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Naylor

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/May/2013
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