Bowles Rocks

Climbs 293 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 109m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Better routes include Fandango (5c), Digitalis (6a) and The Thing (6b). Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a small charge of £4 for adults before 5pm, £3 after 5pm and £2 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is a one minute walk from the car park to the crag.


A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.




Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Approach notes

From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going twds Crowborough.

Access notes

No leading. Extend toprope belays to avoid damage to rock.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CHALET SLAB AREA  
2Holly Tree Problemf3+ 4c 4
3Heidinone 5a 2
4Unnamed Mantleshelfnone 5a 3
5British Bulldognone 4c 3
6Bull's Nosenone 4c 11
7Toreadornone 5c 1
8Badger's Headnone 4b 15
9Unnamednone 2a 4
10Hibiscusnone 3b 5
11Helter Skelternone 5a 11
12Chalet Slab Leftnone 3b *55
13Chalet Slab Directnone 5c *27
14Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off)none 4b *24
15Chalet Slab Rightnone 5b 29
16Mohrenkopnone 5c *9
17Two Stepnone 5b 1
 NETWALL AREA (AMPHITHEATRE LEFT)  
19Roman Nosenone 4b 10
20Umbilicusnone 5c *12
21Fallen Angelsnone 6a 1
22Geoff's Routenone 6b 1
23Geoffrey Moon Esquiref6A 6b  
24Blue Moonnone 6a 1
25991.8 Daysnone 6a 1
26Court's Climbnone 4c 5
27Grotty Groovenone 2a 20
28Running Jumpnone 2b 41
29Scirocco Slabnone 4b *75
30Scirocco Variationsnone 5a 13
31Netwallnone 4a *96
32Net Surfingnone 4a 13
33Corner Laybacknone 4c 73
34Maybe when you're olderf7B 5
35Zoomnone 6b 2
36Santa's Clawsnone 4c 60
37Knucklebonesnone 6b 1
38Coast to Coastnone 6b  
39The Firmnone 6a 1
40Chelsea Chimneynone 2a 14
 RECLAMATION SLAB/BANANA AREA  
42Reclaimednone 5c 3
43Reclamation Gullynone 1a 56
44Reclamation Slab Leftnone 3b *137
45Reclamation Slapnone 5c 44
46Reclamation Slipnone 5b 12
47Reclamation Slab Rightnone 2b **227
48Mental Balancenone 6a 3
49Cenotaph Corner IInone 5b 7
50High Traversenone 4c *31
51Slyme Crymenone 6a 2
52Banananone 6a **216
53Banana Hammockf6C 6b 12
54Proboscisnone 6a 1
55Drosophilanone 5b **245
56Urban Jocknone 6a 2
57Babylonnone 4b *50
58T.N.T.none 5c 15
 FANDANGO  
60Coathangernone 5c *82
61Fandango Direct Startf6A 6a *20
62Fandangonone 5c ***112
63Fandango Centralnone 6a 5
64Fandango Right Handnone 6a ***55
65Fandango Right Hand Direct Startf7A 6c 5
66Lucky Strikef7A **1
67Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Startf7C  
68Pastry Directf7B+ 6c 1
69Pastrynone 5c 6
70Poff Pastrynone 6b 2
71Tobacco Roadf6B 6a **40
72Nicotine Alleyf7A 6b 51
73Sugarplumf6A 6a 7
74Icarusnone 6a 1
75Skifflenone 3a *112
76Orr Traversenone 5c *31
77Mick's Wall Aretenone 6a 42
78Mick's Wallnone 5b 101
79London Pridenone 6c  
80Kemp's Delightnone 4b *182
81Mick's Wall Variationnone 6a 14
82Grotto Chimneynone 2b 34
 TEMPTATION AREA (AMPHITHEATRE RIGHT)  
84Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traversenone 6a *4
85Patellanone 6a *47
86Kinnardnone 6b **5
87Nutellanone 6b *3
88Temptationnone 6b ***43
89Pedestal Problemf7B 6c 5
90Digitalisnone 6a ***65
91Serenade Aretenone 6a **69
92Inspirationnone 5c **81
93The Thingnone 6b *20
94The Fridgef6C+ 6b 2
95Juanitanone 6a *53
96Sappernone 4c **276
97Sapper (Inspiration alternative)none 5b **32
98Sapper (overhang start)f5+ 5c 37
99One Nighternone 6c 2
100Burlapnone 5b **208
101Burlap Eliminatenone 6a 13
102Yoyonone 4a **312
103White Verdict/The Ly'innone 6b 32
104Meager's Right Handnone 5c 84
105Sing Singnone 3a 127
 SALAMANDER SLAB AREA  
107Manitanone 5c 32
108Jackienone 5b *116
109Jackie Alternative Finishnone 6a 7
110Murph's Mountnone 5a *51
111Neronone 5c 20
112Salamander Slabnone 5c *26
113The Twilight Zonenone 6b  
114Cheese Sandwichnone 6a  
115Peter's Perseverancenone 5a **23
116Pegasusnone 5a ***14
117Perspirationnone 5c *72
118Boiling Pointnone 6b 1
119Them Monkey Thingsnone 6c 3
 CARBIDE FINGER AREA (THE OVERHANG)  
121Carbide Fingernone 6c **6
122Cardboard Boxnone 6b *26
123Bubble Wrapnone 6a  
124Thieving Gypsiesnone 6a 4
125Swastikanone 5b *23
126Nightmarenone 6a *12
127Recurring Nightmarenone 6b  
128Abracadabranone 5a 96
 RANGE WALL  
130Conjurornone 6a 31
131Karaf6B 6a 7
132Ricochetnone 4b **190
133Kalashnikovnone 5b 11
134Four-by-Twonone 5a *185
135Four-By-Two Direct Startnone 6a 7
136Pull Throughnone 5b *205
137Pull Through Direct Startnone 6a 16
138Lee Enfieldnone 5c *141
139Targetnone 5c **68
140Target Directf6A+ 6a **11
 DEVALUATION BUTTRESS  
142The Big Stretchnone 5c 7
143Cave Cracknone 5a *85
144Cave Crack Nose Finishnone 5c 5
145E.S. Cadet Nosenone 5b *193
146ES Cadet Nose Sit Startf6B 6a 14
147E.S. Cadet Nose Directnone 5c 7
148Skallagriggnone 6c 2
149Devaluationnone 5b **386
150Devaluation Traversef7A *3
151Sandmannone 6b **67
152Charlie's Chimneynone 3a *57
 PIG'S NOSE AREA  
154Lovenone 6a *22
155Hatenone 6a ***162
156Upside Downiesnone 6b 6
157Pig's Earnone 5c ***282
158Watson-Wattnone 6b 3
159T.T.none 5b 192
160Pig's Nosenone 5a ***562
161Kofflernone 5c 53
162Gully Wallnone 5a 26
163Birch Cracknone 1b 77
 FUNNEL AREA  
165Chrisnone 5c 53
166Kennard's Climbnone 4a *108
167Ribnone 5c 76
168Dibnone 4a *112
169Corbett Slabnone 4a *107
170Pedant's Slabnone 4c 19
171The Scouternone 3a 38
172Nelson's Columnnone 5a *139
173Dival's Diversionnone 5b *191
174Funnelnone 4a **240
175Coolcaringernone 5b 11
176UNnone 5c *100
177Chelsea Traversenone 4a 10
178Wells's Reachnone 3a **86
179The Wreckernone 6c * 
180One of Our Buzzards is Missingnone 6b *3
181Harden Gullynone 2a *64
 FRAGILE WALL AREA  
183A Process of Eliminationf6B *2
184Sylvie's Slabnone 4b *178
185Six Footnone 4c *215
186Larchantnone 5a *280
187Hennessy Heightsnone 5b *231
188August Variationnone 5c 49
189Octobernone 4c *159
190Fragile Wallnone 4a **160
191Fragile Aretenone 5a *109
192Fragile Armsf6A 6a 7
193Escalatornone 5a 52
194Elevatornone 5a 23
195Pop's Chimneynone 4b 28
196Renison Gullynone 3a 59
197Lawson Traversenone 4a *12
198The Lawson Extensionnone 5b 5
 CLARK'S CAP  
200Finalenone 6a 18
201Alkanone 4c *175
202Morpheusnone 6a 5
203Seltzernone 5b *123
204Encorenone 5c 21
205Zugabenone 6b 3
206¡Otra!none 5c 3
 EASY GULLY AREA  
208Novembernone 1b 67
209Baby Bouldernone 4b 35
210Easy Gullynone 1a 53
211Ballerinanone 3c 70
212Red Pegnone 2a 97
213Clairenone 3a 75
214Barham Bouldernone 4a 45
215Rad's Cliffnone 5a 37
216Muddy Gullynone 1a 9
217Bovrilnone 4b 64
218Wallynone 4b 53
219Wally Right Handnone 5a 10
220Oliver's Twistnone 5c 27
221Nealon'snone 4c **119
222Winstonnone 4c 1
223The Lady in Mink's Left Glovenone 6b 2
224Lady in Minknone 6a 14
225Mercator's Projectionnone 3a 3
226Healynone 3a 2
227Bennnone 5a 2
228Wilsonnone 2b 2
229Heathnone 2a 2
 BOWLES BUTTRESS  
231Pat's Progressnone 4a 5
232Dubonnetnone 4b 5
233Williams Laybacknone 2a 8
234Free Willynone 3a 6
235Indexnone 4b 6
236Index Directnone 5b 2
 GIRDLE TRAVERSE  
238Girdle Traversenone 6b **6
 UNKNOWN OR INSUFFICIENT INFORMATION  
240UnrepentantV2 5c **1
241Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disconone 5c **18
242Thin Flakef7A **1
243Right wing bananaf6B 3
244Cardboard Box Startf6C **5
245Kennard Climb4a 3
2463f3 2
247Left Hand Eliminatef7A+ *2
248Left Hand Eliminate 2f7A *2
249Tobacco Road Extensionf6B+ *3
250Thin Flake Sit Startf7A+ *1
251Chalet Slab Right (easier finish)none 4c 2
252Conway's Crack4c 1
253Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimneynone 3a 1
254Hot Cross BunM 1b **3
255Marmitef3 4a **2
256Them monkey thing Leftf7A+ *1
257Pete's Bowle's Eliminatef7B 1
258Sonic Bluef7B 1
259Phasisf7C ***4
 SOUTHERN SANDSTONE BOULDERING GUIDE PROBLEMS  
261Route 59V0- 3 3
262Route 60V0 4 1
263Route 65V0+ 5 2
264Route 66V0- 4+ 2
265Route 70V0- 4 2
266Route79V3 6a 7
267Route 118V0- 4 2
268Route 117V0 4+ 2
269Problem 42f6B 3
270Problem 43f6A+ 6
271Problem 62f6A+ 2
272Problem 105f5 2
273Problem 106f5+ 3
274Problem 107f6A 3
275Problem 108f6A 3
276Problem 112f5+ 2
277The Weed Roadf7A *1
278Problem 122 SSBf5+ 4
279SS Boulder Problem 85f6A+ 2
280SS Boulder Problem 87f6B 1
281Problem 102 SSBf5 1
282Problem 103 SSBf5 1
283Problem 104 SSBf4+ 1
284Problem 116 SSBf4+ 1
285Problem 32 SSBf6C+ **1
286Problem 121 Ssbf6C 2
287SS Bouldering Problem 41f6C *1
288Problem 23 SSBf6B+ 1
289Problem 109 SSBf6A+  
290Problem 98 SSBf4+ 1
291Problem 97 SSBf4 1
292Problem 96 SSBf3 1
293Problem 95 SSBf3+ 1
294Problem 94 SSBf4 1
295Problem 93 SSBf3+ 1
296Problem 92 SSBf4+ 1
297Problem 67 SSBf4+ 2
298Problem 66 SSBf4+ 1
299Problem 61 SSBf4 1
300Problem 58 SSBf5+ 2
301Problem 53 SSBf5 1
302Problem 54 SSBf5 1
303Route 86 no dyno 5+ variantf5+ 2
304Route 80f6A 1
305Route 64f4 1
306Problem 21 SSBf7B *1
307Problem 86 SSBf6C+ *2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graham Ad

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
For teenage climbers, this in NOT a good crag! Over 18s only, unless you go with your parents. Other climbers over 18 don't count, apparently...
Spoursr - 27/Jan/15
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03