Bowles Rocks

Climbs 269 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 109m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Routes up to 10m, either for soloing or toproping. Better routes include Fandango (5c), Digitalis (6a) and The Thing (6b). Owned by Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre - there is a small charge of £4 for adults before 5pm, £3 after 5pm and £2 for children. All funds go to upkeep of the rocks, toilet facilities on site as well as providing outdoor activities for disadvantaged young people. It is a one minute walk from the car park to the crag.

A carpet sample or mat is essential for cleaning your feet before you climb - this significantly reduces wear on the crag.

Bowles is keen to do more for climbers and any feedback is welcome - email development@bowles.ac

Access notes
From the A26 between Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. The turnoff is about 1km (0.6mi) after Eridge station on the left if going twds Crowborough.

No leading. Extend toprope belays to avoid damage to rock.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CHALET SLAB AREA 
2Holly Tree Problemf3+ 4c
3Heidinone 5a
4Unnamed Mantleshelfnone 5a
5British Bulldognone 4c
6Bull's Nosenone 4c
7Toreadornone 5c
8Badger's Headnone 4b
9Unnamednone 2a
10Hibiscusnone 3b
11Helter Skelternone 5a
12Chalet Slab Leftnone 3b *
13Chalet Slab Directnone 5c *
14Chalet Slab Direct (traversing off)none 4b *
15Chalet Slab Rightnone 5b
16Mohrenkopnone 5c *
17Two Stepnone 5b
 NETWALL AREA (AMPHITHEATRE LEFT) 
19Roman Nosenone 4b
20Umbilicusnone 5c *
21Fallen Angelsnone 6a
22Geoff's Routenone 6b
23Geoffrey Moon Esquiref6A 6b
24Blue Moonnone 6a
25991.8 Daysnone 6a
26Court's Climbnone 4c
27Grotty Groovenone 2a
28Running Jumpnone 2b
29Scirocco Slabnone 4b *
30Scirocco Variationsnone 5a
31Netwallnone 4a *
32Net Surfingnone 4a
33Corner Laybacknone 4c
34Zoomnone 6b
35Santa's Clawsnone 4c
36Knucklebonesnone 6b
37Coast to Coastnone 6b
38The Firmnone 6a
39Chelsea Chimneynone 2a
 RECLAMATION SLAB/BANANA AREA 
41Reclaimednone 5c
42Reclamation Gullynone 1a
43Reclamation Slab Leftnone 3b *
44Reclamation Slapnone 5c
45Reclamation Slipnone 5b
46Reclamation Slab Rightnone 2b **
47Mental Balancenone 6a
48Cenotaph Corner IInone 5b
49High Traversenone 4c *
50Slyme Crymenone 6a
51Banananone 6a **
52Banana Hammockf6C 6b
53Proboscisnone 6a
54Drosophilanone 5b **
55Urban Jocknone 6a
56Babylonnone 4b *
57T.N.T.none 5c
 FANDANGO 
59Coathangernone 5c *
60Fandango Direct Startf6A 6a *
61Fandangonone 5c ***
62Fandango Centralnone 6a
63Fandango Right Handnone 6a ***
64Fandango Right Hand Direct Startf7A 6c
65Fandango Right Hand Direct Sit Startf7C 7a
66Pastry Directf7B+ 6c
67Pastrynone 5c
68Poff Pastrynone 6b
69Tobacco Roadf6B 6a **
70Nicotine Alleyf7A 6b
71Sugarplumf6A 6a
72Icarusnone 6a
73Skifflenone 3a *
74Orr Traversenone 5c *
75Mick's Wall Aretenone 6a
76Mick's Wallnone 5b
77London Pridenone 6c
78Kemp's Delightnone 4b *
79Mick's Wall Variationnone 6a
80Grotto Chimneynone 2b
 TEMPTATION AREA (AMPHITHEATRE RIGHT) 
82Pedestal to Grotto Chimney Traversenone 6a *
83Patellanone 6a *
84Kinnardnone 6b **
85Nutellanone 6b *
86Temptationnone 6b ***
87Pedestal Problemf7B 6c
88Digitalisnone 6a ***
89Serenade Aretenone 6a **
90Inspirationnone 5c **
91The Thingnone 6b *
92The Fridgef6C+ 6b
93Juanitanone 6a *
94Sappernone 4c **
95Sapper (Inspiration alternative)none 5b **
96Sapper (overhang start)f5+ 5c
97One Nighternone 6c
98Burlapnone 5b **
99Burlap Eliminatenone 6a
100Yoyonone 4a **
101White Verdict/The Ly'innone 6b
102Meager's Right Handnone 5c
103Sing Singnone 3a
 CARBIDE FINGER AREA (THE OVERHANG) 
105Manitanone 5c
106Jackienone 5b *
107Jackie Alternative Finishnone 6a
108Murph's Mountnone 5a *
109Neronone 5c
110Salamander Slabnone 5c *
111The Twilight Zonenone 6b
112Cheese Sandwichnone 6a
113Peter's Perseverancenone 5a **
114Pegasusnone 5a ***
115Perspirationnone 5c *
116Boiling Pointnone 6b
117Them Monkey Thingsnone 6c
118Carbide Fingernone 6c **
119Cardboard Boxnone 6b *
120Bubble Wrapnone 6a
121Thieving Gypsiesnone 6a
122Swastikanone 5b *
123Nightmarenone 6a *
124Recurring Nightmarenone 6b
125Abracadabranone 5a
 RANGE WALL 
127Conjurornone 6a
128Karaf6B 6a
129Ricochetnone 4b **
130Four-by-Twonone 5a *
131Four-By-Two Direct Startnone 6a
132Pull Throughnone 5b *
133Pull Through Direct Startnone 6a
134Lee Enfieldnone 5c *
135Targetnone 5c **
136Target Directf6A+ 6a **
137The Big Stretchnone 5c
138Cave Cracknone 5a *
139Cave Crack Nose Finishnone 5c
 PIG'S NOSE AREA 
141E.S. Cadet Nosenone 5b *
142ES Cadet Nose Sit Startf6B 6a
143Skallagriggnone 6c
144Devaluationnone 5b **
145Sandmannone 6b **
146Charlie's Chimneynone 3a *
147Lovenone 6a *
148Hatenone 6a ***
149Upside Downiesnone 6b
150Pig's Earnone 5c ***
151Watson-Wattnone 6b
152T.T.none 5b
153Pig's Nosenone 5a ***
154Kofflernone 5c
155Gully Wallnone 5a
156Birch Cracknone 1b
 FUNNEL AREA 
158Chrisnone 5c
159Kennard's Climbnone 4a *
160Ribnone 5c
161Dibnone 4a *
162Corbett Slabnone 4a *
163Pedant's Slabnone 4c
164The Scouternone 3a
165Nelson's Columnnone 5a *
166Dival's Diversionnone 5b *
167Funnelnone 4a **
168Coolcaringernone 5b
169UNnone 5c *
170Chelsea Traversenone 4a
171Wells's Reachnone 3a **
172The Wreckernone 6c *
173One of Our Buzzards is Missingnone 6b *
174Harden Gullynone 2a *
 FRAGILE WALL AREA 
176Sylvie's Slabnone 4b *
177Six Footnone 4c *
178Larchantnone 5a *
179Hennessy Heightsnone 5b *
180August Variationnone 5c
181Octobernone 4c *
182Fragile Wallnone 4a **
183Fragile Aretenone 5a *
184Fragile Armsf6A 6a
185Escalatornone 5a
186Elevatornone 5a
187Pop's Chimneynone 4b
188Renison Gullynone 3a
189Lawson Traversenone 4a *
190The Lawson Extensionnone 5b
191Finalenone 6a
192Alkanone 4c *
193Morpheusnone 6a
194Seltzernone 5b *
195Encorenone 5c
196Zugabenone 6b
197¡Otra!none 5c
 EASY GULLY AREA 
199Novembernone 1b
200Baby Bouldernone 4b
201Easy Gullynone 1a
202Ballerinanone 3c
203Red Pegnone 2a
204Clairenone 3a
205Barham Bouldernone 4a
206Rad's Cliffnone 5a
207Muddy Gullynone 1a
208Bovrilnone 4b
209Wallynone 4b
210Wally Right Handnone 5a
211Oliver's Twistnone 5c
212Nealon'snone 4c **
213Winstonnone 4c
214The Lady in Mink's Left Glovenone 6b
215Lady in Minknone 6a
216Mercator's Projectionnone 3a
217Healynone 3a
218Bennnone 5a
219Wilsonnone 2b
220Heathnone 2a
 BOWLES BUTTRESS 
222Pat's Progressnone 4a
223Dubonnetnone 4b
224Williams Laybacknone 2a
225Free Willynone 3a
226Indexnone 4b
227Index Directnone 5b
 GIRDLE TRAVERSE 
229Girdle Traversenone 6b **
 UNKNOWN OR INSUFFICIENT INFORMATION 
231Unrepentant V2 5c **
232Spock Does the Bump at the Space Disconone 5c **
233E.S. Cadet Nose Directnone 5c
234Devaluation Traversef7A *
235Thin Flakef7A **
236Right wing bananaf6B
237Cardboard Box Startf6C **
238A Process of Eliminationf6B *
239Kennard Climb 4a
2403 *f3
241Mike's Wall Arete *f6B+ **
242Fandango Arete *f6A **
243Left Hand Eliminatef7A+ *
244Left Hand Eliminate 2 *f7A *
245Tobacco Road Extension *f6B+ *
246Thin Flake Sit Start *f7A+ *
247Lucky Strikef7A **
248Chalet Slab Right (easier finish) *M 4c
249White Verdict *f6B
250KalashnikovM 5b
251Conway's Crack *4c
252Chalet Slab Far Left To Chimneynone 3a
253Hot Cross Bun *M 1b **
254Four by Twonone 5 **
255Marmite *f3 4a **
256Route 59 *V0- 3
257Route 60 *V0 4
258Route 65 *V0+ 5
259Route 66 *V0- 4+
260Route 70 *V0- 4
261Route79 *V3 6a
262Route 118 *V0- 4
263Route 117 *V0 4+
264Problem 42 *f6B
265Problem 43 *f6A+
266Problem 62 *f6A+
267Problem 105 *f5
268Problem 106 *f5+
269Problem 107 *f6A
270Problem 108 *f6A
271Problem 112 *f5+
272The Weed Road *f7A *
273Maybe when you're older *f7B
274Problem 122 SSB *f5+
275SS Boulder Problem 85 *f6A+
276SS Boulder Problem 87 *f6B
277Phasis *f7C ***
278Them monkey thing Left *f7A+ *
279Problem 102 SSB *f5
280Problem 103 SSB *f5
281Problem 104 SSB *f4+
282Problem 116 SSB *f4+
283Problem 32 SSB *f6C+ **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Naylor

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
What about the direct slab next to "manita". "white verdict" I think it's called, 6b.... I can't see it on your list! http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/photos/geezerdave.jpg
rotax123 - 01/Aug/12
SandC: therer isn't an easy way of doing this, as far as I can see, unless ther problems are given names. I'll dig into it a bit more and see if I can sort something out. Rob (Crag Moderator).
Rob Naylor - 17/Mar/12
any way of getting the boulder problems added to the lists for my logbook? They dont really have names which is the problem.
SandC - 17/Mar/12
On my last visit I was sad to see a group of three climbers savagely brushing Sandman (6a) THIS ENLARGES THE HOLDS and irreversibly damages the rock! Please respect the rock by cleaning it sparingly and as gently as possible. Please read the ten commandments of sandstone (on the BMC site) to protect this fragile rock
mr random - 26/Aug/07
easier to get to than Harrisons but not as varied.
Ben - 05/Oct/04
Ignore johny, he clearly has a damaged intelligence.
mike - 17/Jul/04
Seen so many northern and indoor wusses come down and fail. Ha, ha, ha. The rock requires a very special technique you only acquire on sandstone, hard or soft. This stuff is as soft as it gets and it eats twats for breakfast
JoHNY - 09/Feb/04
Become very eroded this year, a lot of hold breakages. Be careful! And don't climb on it when wet...
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/May/2013
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