Earl Crag

Climbs 232 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
18Cirque du Freakf8A+  
19Hanging Wallf7A  
20Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
22Bad Seedf6B  
23Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
25Pitch at Willf5  
26Frustrationf6B  
27Dean's Aretef7A  
28Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
30Old TimothyVS 4b 3
31ZippergateE2 5b  
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
35Mind BombE7 6c * 
36French DukeE9 7a  
37Early RiserE5 6a **18
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
39Rowan Tree CornerD 7
40Pee PodVS 4c 2
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
44Smoked Mackerelf6C *2
45The Kipper Overhangf6B **8
46Erasor SlabHVS 5b **136
47Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 1
48Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 45
49Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
50The TwisterE3 6a 1
51Final DepartureE6 6b  
52New BladeE7 6c ***1
53Run a MockE2 5b  
54Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
56Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
57Pedestal RibHVS 4c *30
58Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 18
59Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
60Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
61The Wong WayE3 5c  
62Awkward CrackS 4b 60
63Cave TraverseHVS 5a *9
64Cave DirectVS 5a 3
65Cave WallVS 4b 9
66Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
67Deep ChimneyD 14
68Little GreenyE2 5c *9
69Twin CracksVD 3
70Right Hand CrackVD 15
71Left Hand CrackVD 6
72Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
75Flake CrackVS 5a *31
76Indicator crackS 4a 57
77Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
78Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
79Time To GoHVS 5a 20
80Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
81Slab CornerVD *95
82TiggerificD 1
83Block and ChimneyVD 12
 UPPER TIER  
85Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
86The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
87FishladderE1 5b *22
88The KipperE4 6b **6
89Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
90Problem Ribf5 5b **25
91White WallE2 6b 8
92Grey WallHS 5a *45
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
96Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
97Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
99Hand Full Aretef6A 5
100Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
102Hanging Groovef6C 6b **21
103Vanishing Pointf8A  
104Sloping Beautyf7B+ **27
105Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
107Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
109Highball Wallf4+ **2
110Trick Aretef6B 6b **49
111Crimpy Wallf5 17
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
113Drop-down Traversef6C **4
114Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 10
115Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 11
116Pop Up Aretef6B 11
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
118Cool Hand Wallf5 7
119Cool Handf6A+ 4
120The Groovef5 2
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
122Centre Courtf6A+ 1
123Right of Centref4+ 1
 BOUNDARY WALL  
125The RibberE3 6a 1
126Green Ribf6A 6a *6
127Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
128Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
129Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
130Shothole RidgeVS 4c *18
131Long ShotE1 5c 1
132Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
133BladeHVS 5b 3
134Little DemonMS 16
135Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
136A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
137Cave CrackMS 5
138Necessary EvilE5 6c  
139YAB ChimneyVD 3
140WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
142Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
143Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
144The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
146Slim Shadyf8A *2
147Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
148Superflyf7B+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
150TrifleHVS 5b 1
151The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
152Dirty WallHVS 5a  
153Little ButtressD 7
154Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
156Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
157Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
158Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
159Washed UpE6 6b  
160The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
161Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
162Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **36
163Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
164Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
165Perch WallHVS 5b **7
166FlightE1 5b 1
167Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
168The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
169Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
170Liz's WallE3 6b 1
171Earl CrackVS 4c ***103
172Earl ButtressE2 5c ***63
173Captain GapE2 6a  
174Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
175EvasionE1 5b *2
176StallE3 6a *2
177Trite RibE3 5c **5
178Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
179Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
180The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
182Konrad Bartelskif6B  
183The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
184Long Way Homef6B  
185Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
187Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***18
188Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***25
189Dave's Startf7B  
190Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
192Prow ChimneyD 31
193Prow ButtressHVD 3c *93
194Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
195Jock JonesVS 4c *44
196Tiger WallVS 4c ***183
197Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *31
198Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **13
199The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
200Clean KillE1 5b  
201The ExtinguisherD 19
202Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
203Mousehole SlabVS 4b *72
204Rat JugglingE1 5a 26
205Sharp AreteE1 6a *20
206Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
207Sour GrapesE3 6a **32
208Boundary WallHVS 5b 5
209The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
210Wall ChimneyD 1
211Hand TraverseVD 4
212Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
213Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
214Slab SoloVD 1
215Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
217Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **36
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
219Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
221Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **50
222Kraftyf7C  
223Power Dropf6B **3
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
225Problem 8f4+ 9
226Eliminate Slabf6A 10
227Slab Wallf4 13
228Iggy's Groovef5+ 18
229Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 12
230Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **32
231Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **3
232Warm Up Aretef5 **30
233Andy Brown's Wallf7B 25
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
235Dink Wallf6C+ **2
236The Gimpf7A *6
237The Flakesf7B **17
238Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
239Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
240Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
242Ron's Slabf6C **4
243Ron's Aretef6C **10
244The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *67
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
246Blunt Aretef6A *2
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
248Australia Rooff6B **27
249Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
250Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
252Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
253Pinnacle Groovef4+ 2
254Back In Blackf7B  
255Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
257Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
259Underworldf7C+ ***2
260Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
261Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
263Rib Ticklerf4 7
264Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
265Easy Groovef6B *5
266Weight Gainf6B+ 1
267Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
269Hanging Aretef6B+ 4
270The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
272Phantomf6A 5
273Ghostf5 6
274Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 3
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
276Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
277Pinnacle Edgef6C  
278Colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
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