Earl Crag

Climbs 230 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
18Cirque du Freakf8A+  
19Hanging Wallf7A  
20Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
22Bad Seedf6B  
23Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
25Pitch at Willf5  
26Frustrationf6B  
27Dean's Aretef7A  
28Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
30Old TimothyVS 4b 3
31ZippergateE2 5b  
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
35Mind BombE7 6c * 
36French DukeE9 7a  
37Early RiserE5 6a **17
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
39Rowan Tree CornerD 7
40Pee PodVS 4c 2
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
43Smoked Mackerelf6C *2
44The Kipper Overhangf6B **8
45Erasor SlabHVS 5b **135
46Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
48The TwisterE3 6a 1
49Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 43
50Final DepartureE6 6b  
51New BladeE7 6c ***1
52Run a MockE2 5b  
53Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
55Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
56Pedestal RibHVS 4c *30
57Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 17
58Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
59Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
60The Wong WayE3 5c  
61Awkward CrackS 4b 60
62Cave TraverseHVS 5a *8
63Cave DirectVS 5a 3
64Cave WallVS 4b 9
65Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
66Deep ChimneyD 14
67Little GreenyE2 5c *9
68Twin CracksVD 3
69Right Hand CrackVD 15
70Left Hand CrackVD 6
71Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
74Flake CrackVS 5a *31
75Indicator crackS 4a 57
76Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
77Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
78Time To GoHVS 5a 20
79Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
80Slab CornerVD *93
81TiggerificD  
82Block and ChimneyVD 11
 UPPER TIER  
84Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
85The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
86FishladderE1 5b *22
87The KipperE4 6b **6
88Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
89Problem Ribf5 5b **24
90White WallE2 6b 8
91Grey WallHS 5a *45
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
95Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
96Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
98Hand Full Aretef6A 5
99Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
101Hanging Groovef6C 6b **20
102Vanishing Pointf8A  
103Sloping Beautyf7B+ **27
104Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
106Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
108Highball Wallf4+ **2
109Trick Aretef6B 6b **49
110Crimpy Wallf5 14
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
112Drop-down Traversef6C **3
113Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 8
114Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 9
115Pop Up Aretef6B 9
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
117Cool Hand Wallf5 6
118Cool Handf6A+ 3
119The Groovef5 1
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
121Centre Courtf6A+ 1
122Right of Centref4+ 1
 BOUNDARY WALL  
124The RibberE3 6a 1
125Green Ribf6A 6a *6
126Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
127Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
128Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
129Shothole RidgeVS 4c *18
130Long ShotE1 5c 1
131Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
132BladeHVS 5b 3
133Little DemonMS 16
134Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
135A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
136Cave CrackMS 5
137Necessary EvilE5 6c  
138YAB ChimneyVD 3
139WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
141Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
142Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
143The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
145Slim Shadyf8A *2
146Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
147Superflyf7B+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
149TrifleHVS 5b 1
150The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
151Dirty WallHVS 5a  
152Little ButtressD 7
153Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
155Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
156Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
157Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
158Washed UpE6 6b  
159The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
160Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
161Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **35
162Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
163Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
164Perch WallHVS 5b **6
165FlightE1 5b 1
166Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
167The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
168Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
169Liz's WallE3 6b 1
170Earl CrackVS 4c ***103
171Earl ButtressE2 5c ***61
172Captain GapE2 6a  
173Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
174EvasionE1 5b *2
175StallE3 6a *1
176Trite RibE3 5c **5
177Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
178Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
179The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
181Konrad Bartelskif6B  
182The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
183Long Way Homef6B  
184Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
186Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***17
187Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***24
188Dave's Startf7B  
189Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
191Prow ChimneyD 30
192Prow ButtressHVD 3c *92
193Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
194Jock JonesVS 4c *44
195Tiger WallVS 4c ***182
196Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *31
197Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **13
198The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
199Clean KillE1 5b  
200The ExtinguisherD 19
201Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
202Mousehole SlabVS 4b *72
203Rat JugglingE1 5a 26
204Sharp AreteE1 6a *20
205Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
206Sour GrapesE3 6a **32
207Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
208The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
209Wall ChimneyD 1
210Hand TraverseVD 4
211Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
212Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
213Slab SoloVD 1
214Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
216Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **36
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
218Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
220Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **50
221Kraftyf7C  
222Power Dropf6B **3
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
224Problem 8f4+ 9
225Eliminate Slabf6A 10
226Slab Wallf4 13
227Iggy's Groovef5+ 18
228Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 12
229Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **32
230Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **3
231Warm Up Aretef5 **29
232Andy Brown's Wallf7B 25
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
234Dink Wallf6C+ **2
235The Gimpf7A *6
236The Flakesf7B **17
237Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
238Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
239Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
241Ron's Slabf6C **4
242Ron's Aretef6C **9
243The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *67
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
245Blunt Aretef6A *2
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
247Australia Rooff6B **27
248Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
249Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
251Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
252Pinnacle Groovef4+ 1
253Back In Blackf7B  
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
255Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
257Underworldf7C+ ***2
258Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
259Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
261Rib Ticklerf4 7
262Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
263Easy Groovef6B *5
264Weight Gainf6B+ 1
265Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
267Hanging Aretef6B+ 4
268The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
270Phantomf6A 5
271Ghostf5 6
272Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 3
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
274Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
275Pinnacle Edgef6C  
276Colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
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