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These details were last updated on 17/Jun/2014

Earl Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 215 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

1.0mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
17 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
13 °C
15 kph

2.0mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
32 kph

13.1mm rain
Sun
9 °C
24 kph

1.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
22 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6b  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6Desperate for FameE3 5c  
7No Holds BarredE2 5c  
8No Holds Barred Alt FinishE3 6a  
9The Underhand ManE5 6c  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
11After Darkf7C+  
12In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL  
16Problem Wallf6B  
17Greg's Aretef6B+  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
19Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
20Old TimothyVS 4b 3
21ZippergateE2 5b  
22Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
23Mind BombE7 6c ** 
24French DukeE8 7a  
25Early RiserE5 6a **14
26All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
27Rowan Tree CornerD 7
28Pee PodVS 4c 2
29Jump to the BeatE4 6b *1
30Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
31The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
32FishladderE1 5b 22
33The KipperE4 6a **6
34Edge of DarknessE4 6c * 
35Erasor SlabHVS 5b **131
36Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
37The TwisterE3 6a 1
38Problem RibE1 5b *23
39White WallE2 6b 7
40Grey WallHS 4c *41
41Final DepartureE6 6b  
42New BladeE7 6c  
43Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *22
44Run a MockE2 5b  
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
46KipperV4 6b **5
47Erasor Slab DirectV3 6a 41
 PEDESTAL WALL  
49Pedestal WallE2 6a *7
50Pedestal RibHVS 4c 28
51Pedestal Rib DirectHVS 5b 15
52Overhanging WallS *31
53Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
54The Wong WayE3 5c  
55Awkward CrackS 4b 60
56Cave TraverseHVS 5a *7
57Cave WallMVS 4b 8
58Cave DirectVS 5a 3
59Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
60Deep ChimneyD 14
61Little GreenyE2 5c **9
62Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
63Right Hand CrackVD 15
64Left Hand CrackVD 6
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
67Flake CrackVS 5a *30
68Indicator crackS 4a 56
69Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 18
70Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
71Time To GoHVS 5a *20
72Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
73Slab CornerVD *92
74TiggerificD  
75Block and ChimneyVD 11
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
79Rubber Aretef6A 1
80Rubber wallf4+ 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
82Hand Full Aretef6A 1
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
84Hanging GrooveV5 6b ***16
85Vanishing Pointf8A  
86Sloping BeautyV9 6c ***23
87Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
89Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
91Trick AreteV4 **37
92Area 2.5, Trick Arete, Problem 3f6B 5
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER  
94Area 2.6, Low Rider, Problem 2f5+ 5
95Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 7
96Big Low Boulder, Problem 14/Low Rider, Problem 4f6B 6a 3
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
98Cool Hand Wallf5+ 1
99Cool Handf6A 1
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
101Centre Courtf6A+  
 BOUNDARY WALL  
103The RibberE3 6a 1
104Green RibE1 5c *6
105Green Rib Right-handE2 6b 2
106Butterfly CrackVS 4c 4
107Butterfly WallE2 6a 1
108Shothole RidgeVS 4c 17
109Long ShotE1 5c 1
110Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
111BladeVS 5a 3
112Little DemonMS 16
113Cave CrackMS 5
114A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
115Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
116Necessary EvilE5 6c  
117YAB ChimneyVD 3
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
119Simple Aretef6A 2
120Simple Slabf5+  
121Ribberf6B+  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
123Slim ShadyV9 *2
124Butterfly Wall (Bloc)V6 *5
125SuperflyV8 **14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
127TrifleHVS 5b 1
128The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
129Little ButtressD 7
130Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
132Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
133Abstract AttittudeE5 6b ** 
134Washed UpE6 6b  
135The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
136Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
137Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
138Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **34
139Perch WallHVS 5b **6
140?E4 6c  
141Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
142Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
143FlightE1 5b 1
144Liz's WallE3 6b 1
145Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
146The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
147Earl CrackVS 4c ***101
148Earl ButtressE2 5b ***61
149Captain GapE2 6a  
150Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
151EvasionHVS 5a 2
152StallE3 6a * 
153Trite RibE3 5c **5
154Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
155Chockstone CrackS 4a *8
156The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
158Konrad Bartelskif6B+  
159The Way Homef6B  
160Long Way Homef6B  
161Mow Wallf6A+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
163Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7A+ ***16
164Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f6C+ **19
165Dave's Startf7B  
166Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
168Prow ChimneyD 29
169Prow ButtressMS 90
170Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
171Tiger WallMVS 4b ***180
172Jock JonesVS 4c *43
173Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c **29
174Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **12
175The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
176Clean KillE1 5b  
177The ExtinguisherM 18
178Mousehole SlabHVS 4c *71
179Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
180Rat JugglingE1 5a 25
181Sharp AreteE1 6a *16
182Sweet ApplesE4 6b ** 
183Sour GrapesE3 6a **27
184Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
185The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
186Wall ChimneyD 1
187Hand TraverseVD 4
188Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
189Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
190Slab SoloVD 1
191Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
193Rat Au VinV3 *29
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
195Sour Grapes TraverseV3 6a *6
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
197Grape Nut Area - Problem 14V1 5b **6
198Grape Nut (Bloc)V7 **33
199Grape Nutf7A **11
200Kraftyf7C  
201Problem 8V0 7
202Problem 9V3 8
203Problem 10V0 8
204Problem 11V1 10
205Problem 12V2 8
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
207Iggy's Groovef5+ 4
208Handy Andy'sV7 **29
209Handy Andy's DirectV9 **3
210Unnamed AreteV1 *15
211Andy Brown's WallV8+ 21
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
213The GimpV7 *4
214The FlakesV7 **15
215Dave's Groovef7C  
216Lager Lager LagerV9 ***7
217Lager lager Lager sit startf7C+ ***1
218Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
220Ron's SlabV6 **4
221Ron's AreteV6 **9
222The John Dunne SlapV4 6b *61
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
225Australia RoofV4 **22
226Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **7
227Area 4.4, Australia Roof, Problem 5f6A+ 1
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
229Pinnacle Wallf4 1
230Pinnacle groovef4+ 1
231Back In Blackf7B  
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
233Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
235Underworldf7C+ ***2
236Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
237UnderpantsV9 **11
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE  
239Boulder 24, P1VB 4b 6
240Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
241Boulder 24, Problem 4.V3 *3
242Weight Gainf6B+ 1
243Feel the BurnV10 ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
245Hanging Aretef6B+ 2
246The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 8
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
248Phantomf6A 4
249Ghostf5 5
250Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 3
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
252Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
253Pinnacle Edgef6C  
254colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
256Twin CracksVD 3
257The BladeE6 6c ***1
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- TO BE DELETED  
259No MercyV11 ***2
260BeatdownV10 *1
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