Earl Crag

Climbs 227 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
18Cirque du Freakf8A+  
19Hanging Wallf7A  
20Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
22Bad Seedf6B  
23Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
25Pitch at Willf5  
26Frustrationf6B  
27Dean's Aretef7A  
28Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
30Old TimothyVS 4b 3
31ZippergateE2 5b  
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
35Mind BombE7 6c * 
36French DukeE9 7a  
37Early RiserE5 6a **17
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
39Rowan Tree CornerD 7
40Pee PodVS 4c 2
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
43The Kipper Overhangf6B **6
44Erasor SlabHVS 5b **135
45Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
47The TwisterE3 6a 1
48Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 43
49Final DepartureE6 6b  
50New BladeE7 6c ***1
51Run a MockE2 5b  
52Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
54Pedestal WallE3 6a 7
55Pedestal RibHVS 4c *30
56Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 15
57Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
58Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
59The Wong WayE3 5c  
60Awkward CrackS 4b 60
61Cave TraverseHVS 5a *8
62Cave DirectVS 5a 3
63Cave WallVS 4b 9
64Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
65Deep ChimneyD 14
66Little GreenyE2 5c *9
67Twin CracksVD 3
68Right Hand CrackVD 15
69Left Hand CrackVD 6
70Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
73Flake CrackVS 5a *31
74Indicator crackS 4a 57
75Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
76Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
77Time To GoHVS 5a 20
78Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
79Slab CornerVD *93
80TiggerificD  
81Block and ChimneyVD 11
 UPPER TIER  
83Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
84The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
85FishladderE1 5b *22
86The KipperE4 6b **6
87Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
88Problem Ribf5 5b **24
89White WallE2 6b 8
90Grey WallHS 5a *45
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
94Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
95Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
97Hand Full Aretef6A 5
98Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
100Hanging Groovef6C 6b **20
101Vanishing Pointf8A  
102Sloping Beautyf7B+ **27
103Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
105Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
107Highball Wallf4+ **2
108Trick Aretef6B 6b **49
109Crimpy Wallf5 11
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
111Drop-down Traversef6C **2
112Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 8
113Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 9
114Pop Up Aretef6B 7
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
116Cool Hand Wallf5 4
117Cool Handf6A+ 2
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
119Centre Courtf6A+ 1
 BOUNDARY WALL  
121The RibberE3 6a 1
122Green Ribf6A 6a *6
123Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
124Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
125Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
126Shothole RidgeVS 4c *18
127Long ShotE1 5c 1
128Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
129BladeHVS 5b 3
130Little DemonMS 16
131Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
132A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
133Cave CrackMS 5
134Necessary EvilE5 6c  
135YAB ChimneyVD 3
136WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
138Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
139Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
140The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
142Slim Shadyf8A *2
143Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
144Superflyf7B+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
146TrifleHVS 5b 1
147The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
148Dirty WallHVS 5a  
149Little ButtressD 7
150Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
152Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
153Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
154Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
155Washed UpE6 6b  
156The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
157Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
158Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **35
159Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
160Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
161Perch WallHVS 5b **6
162FlightE1 5b 1
163Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
164The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
165Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
166Liz's WallE3 6b 1
167Earl CrackVS 4c ***103
168Earl ButtressE2 5c ***61
169Captain GapE2 6a  
170Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
171EvasionE1 5b *2
172StallE3 6a *1
173Trite RibE3 5c **5
174Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
175Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
176The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
178Konrad Bartelskif6B  
179The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
180Long Way Homef6B  
181Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
183Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***16
184Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***22
185Dave's Startf7B  
186Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
188Prow ChimneyD 30
189Prow ButtressHVD 3c *92
190Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
191Jock JonesVS 4c *44
192Tiger WallVS 4c ***182
193Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *31
194Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **13
195The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
196Clean KillE1 5b  
197The ExtinguisherD 19
198Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
199Mousehole SlabVS 4b *72
200Rat JugglingE1 5a 26
201Sharp AreteE1 6a *18
202Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
203Sour GrapesE3 6a **32
204Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
205The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
206Wall ChimneyD 1
207Hand TraverseVD 4
208Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
209Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
210Slab SoloVD 1
211Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
213Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **34
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
215Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
217Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **48
218Kraftyf7C  
219Power Dropf6B **1
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
221Problem 8f4+ 9
222Eliminate Slabf6A 10
223Slab Wallf4 10
224Iggy's Groovef5+ 16
225Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 9
226Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **30
227Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **3
228Warm Up Aretef5 **26
229Andy Brown's Wallf7B 22
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
231The Gimpf7A *4
232The Flakesf7B **17
233Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
234Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
235Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
237Ron's Slabf6C **4
238Ron's Aretef6C **9
239The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *65
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
242Australia Rooff6B **25
243Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
244Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
246Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
247Pinnacle Groovef4+ 1
248Back In Blackf7B  
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
250Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
252Underworldf7C+ ***2
253Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
254Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
256Rib Ticklerf4 7
257Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
258Easy Groovef6B *5
259Weight Gainf6B+ 1
260Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
262Hanging Aretef6B+ 4
263The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
265Phantomf6A 5
266Ghostf5 6
267Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 3
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
269Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
270Pinnacle Edgef6C  
271Colt 45f7C ***1
272The Groove *f5 5b 1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
274Right of Centre *f4+ 1
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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