Earl Crag

Climbs 233 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
18Cirque du Freakf8A+  
19Hanging Wallf7A  
20Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
22Bad Seedf6B  
23Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
25Pitch at Willf5  
26Frustrationf6B  
27Dean's Aretef7A  
28Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
30Old TimothyVS 4b 3
31ZippergateE2 5b  
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
35Mind BombE7 6c * 
36French DukeE9 7a  
37Early RiserE5 6a **18
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
39Rowan Tree CornerD 7
40Pee PodVS 4c 2
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
44Smoked Mackerelf6C *2
45The Kipper Overhangf6B **8
46Erasor SlabHVS 5b **137
47Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 2
48Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 45
49Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
50The TwisterE3 6a 1
51Final DepartureE6 6b  
52New BladeE7 6c ***1
53Run a MockE2 5b  
54Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
56Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
57Pedestal RibHVS 4c *30
58Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 18
59Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
60Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
61The Wong WayE3 5c  
62Awkward CrackS 4b 60
63Cave TraverseHVS 5a *9
64Cave DirectVS 5a 3
65Cave WallVS 4b 9
66Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
67Deep ChimneyD 15
68Little GreenyE2 5c *9
69Twin CracksVD 3
70Right Hand CrackVD 15
71Left Hand CrackVD 6
72Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
75Flake CrackVS 5a *32
76Indicator crackS 4a 57
77Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
78Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
79Time To GoHVS 5a 20
80Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
81Slab CornerVD *95
82Slab Corner YMC VersionS 4a *1
83TiggerificD 2
84Block and ChimneyVD 12
 UPPER TIER  
86Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
87The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
88FishladderE1 5b *22
89The KipperE4 6b **6
90Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
91Problem Ribf5 5b **25
92White WallE2 6b 8
93Grey WallHS 5a *45
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
97Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
98Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
100Hand Full Aretef6A 5
101Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
103Hanging Groovef6C 6b **22
104Vanishing Pointf8A  
105Sloping Beautyf7B+ **27
106Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
108Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
110Highball Wallf4+ **3
111Trick Aretef6B 6b **50
112Crimpy Wallf5 19
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
114Drop-down Traversef6C **5
115Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 12
116Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 13
117Pop Up Aretef6B 14
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
119Cool Hand Wallf5 7
120Cool Handf6A+ 4
121The Groovef5 2
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
123Centre Courtf6A+ 1
124Right of Centref4+ 1
 BOUNDARY WALL  
126The RibberE3 6a 1
127Green Ribf6A 6a *6
128Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
129Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
130Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
131Shothole RidgeVS 4c *18
132Long ShotE1 5c 1
133Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
134BladeHVS 5b 3
135Little DemonMS 16
136Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
137A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
138Cave CrackMS 5
139Necessary EvilE5 6c  
140YAB ChimneyVD 3
141WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
143Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
144Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
145The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
147Slim Shadyf8A *2
148Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
149Superflyf7B+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
151TrifleHVS 5b 1
152The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
153Dirty WallHVS 5a  
154Little ButtressD 7
155Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
157Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
158Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
159Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
160Washed UpE6 6b  
161The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
162Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
163Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **36
164Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
165Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
166Perch WallHVS 5b **7
167FlightE1 5b 1
168Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
169The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
170Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
171Liz's WallE3 6b 1
172Earl CrackVS 4c ***106
173Earl ButtressE2 5c ***65
174Captain GapE2 6a  
175Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
176EvasionE1 5b *2
177StallE3 6a *2
178Trite RibE3 5c **5
179Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
180Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
181The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
183Konrad Bartelskif6B  
184The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
185Long Way Homef6B  
186Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
188Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***20
189Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***27
190Dave's Startf7B  
191Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
193Prow ChimneyD 31
194Prow ButtressHVD 3c *93
195Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
196Jock JonesVS 4c *44
197Tiger WallVS 4c ***185
198Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *31
199Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **13
200The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
201Clean KillE1 5b  
202The ExtinguisherD 19
203Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
204Mousehole SlabVS 4b *73
205Rat JugglingE1 5a 26
206Sharp AreteE1 6a *20
207Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
208Sour GrapesE3 6a **34
209Boundary WallHVS 5b 5
210The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
211Wall ChimneyD 1
212Hand TraverseVD 4
213Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
214Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
215Slab SoloVD 1
216Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
218Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **36
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
220Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
222Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **53
223Kraftyf7C  
224Power Dropf6B **3
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
226Problem 8f4+ 10
227Eliminate Slabf6A 13
228Slab Wallf4 14
229Iggy's Groovef5+ 20
230Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 12
231Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **35
232Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **3
233Warm Up Aretef5 **32
234Andy Brown's Wallf7B 26
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
236Dink Wallf6C+ **2
237The Gimpf7A *6
238The Flakesf7B **18
239Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
240Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
241Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
243Ron's Slabf6C **5
244Ron's Aretef6C **11
245The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *70
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
247Blunt Aretef6A *2
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
249Australia Rooff6B **29
250Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
251Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
253Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
254Pinnacle Groovef4+ 2
255Back In Blackf7B  
256Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
258Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
260Underworldf7C+ ***2
261Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
262Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
264Rib Ticklerf4 7
265Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
266Easy Groovef6B *5
267Weight Gainf6B+ 1
268Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
270Hanging Aretef6B+ 4
271The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
273Phantomf6A 6
274Ghostf5 7
275Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 4
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
277Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
278Pinnacle Edgef6C  
279Colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
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