Climbs 243
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 Quarried Bay 
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In Stitches
E4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand Man
E5 6c  
7Desperate for Fame
E3 5c  
8No Holes Barred
E2 5c  
9No Holds Barred
E3 6a  
E2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged Hussars
E4 6a  
12The Offwidth
E2 5b 2
 The Quarry Bouldering 
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 First Boulder 
17Small Arete Left
f5+ 4
18Small Arete Right
f5+ 2
 Scoops Boulder 
f5+ 1
21Scoops Left
f5+ 2
22Scoops Right
f5+ 1
 TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block 
24Cirque du Freak
25Hanging Wall
26Allez Retour
f6B 3
 TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed 
28Bad Seed
29Problem Wall
 Pitch At Will 
31Pitch at Willf5  
33Dean's Arete
34Greg's Aretef7A  
 Mind Bomb Area 
36Old TimothyVS 4b 3
E2 5b  
38Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
39Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
40The Baron of Boing
E8 6c  
41Mind BombE7 6c * 
42French Duke
E9 7a  
43Early RiserE5 6a **21
44All Day Breakfast
E2 5c  
45Rowan Tree CornerD 7
46Pee PodVS 4c 2
47Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 Lower Tier 
 TC 1.4 Eraser Slab 
50Smoked Mackerelf6C *3
51The Kipper Overhangf6B **10
52Erasor SlabHVS 5b **164
53Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 5
54Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 47
55Eraser Slab Eliminate
HVS 5b 1
56The TwisterE3 6a 1
57Final Departure
E6 6b  
58New BladeE7 6c ***1
59Run a MockE2 5b  
60Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *27
 Pedestal Wall 
62Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
63Pedestal RibHVS 4c *41
64Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 23
65Overhanging WallHS 4b *36
66Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
67The Wong Way
E3 5c  
68Awkward CrackS 4b 63
69Cave TraverseHVS 5a *11
70Cave DirectVS 5a 3
71Cave WallVS 4b 10
72Vrecka's Arete
HVS 5c  
73Deep ChimneyD 15
74Little GreenyE2 5c *10
75Twin CracksVD 4
76Right Hand CrackVD 15
77Left Hand CrackVD 6
78Duke of Earl
E4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 Green Bits 
 The Indicator Area 
81Flake CrackVS 5a *37
82Indicator crackS 4a 58
83Digitalef6C 1
84Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 21
85Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
86Time To GoHVS 5a 23
87Flight of the Bumble Bee
E4 6a  
88Slab CornerVD *106
89Slab Corner YMC VersionS 4a *2
90TiggerificD 3
91Block and ChimneyVD 12
 Upper Tier 
93Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
94The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
95FishladderE1 5b *24
96The KipperE4 6b **5
97Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
98Problem Ribf5 5b **30
99White WallE2 6b 9
100Grey WallHS 5a *50
 TC 1.6 The Prow 
 *** Sloping Beauty Bouldering *** 
 TC 2.1 Edge of Darkness 
104Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 3
105Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 2
 TC 2.2 Hand Full 
107Hand Full Aretef6A 8
108Spicyf6A *4
 TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty 
110Hanging Groovef6C 6b **28
111Vanishing Pointf8A  
112Sloping Beautyf7B+ **36
113Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 Undercut Arete 
115Undercut Aretef6B 2
 TC 2.5 Trick Arete 
117Highball Wall
f4+ **6
118Trick Aretef6B 6b **57
119Crimpy Wallf5 28
 TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse 
121Drop-down Traverse
f6C **9
122Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 17
123Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 15
124Pop Up Aretef6B 21
 TC 2.7 Cool Hand 
126Cool Hand Wallf5 11
127Cool Handf6A+ 7
128The Groovef5 6
 TC 2.8 Low Slab 
130Centre Courtf6A+ 4
131Right of Centref4+ 5
 Boundary Wall 
133The RibberE3 6a 1
134Green Ribf6A 6a *6
135Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *3
136Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
137Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
138Shothole RidgeVS 4c *20
139Long ShotE1 5c 1
140Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
141BladeHVS 5b 3
142Little DemonMS 16
143Paintstripper Gritter
E4 6b  
144A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
145Cave CrackMS 5
146Necessary Evil
E5 6c  
147YAB ChimneyVD 3
HVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 Simple Arete 
150Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
151Simple Slab (Right Wall)
152The Ribber
f6C 1
 TC 3.2 Butterfly Wall 
154Slim Shadyf8A *2
155Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
f7A *6
156Superflyf7B+ *14
 Little Buttress 
158TrifleHVS 5b 1
159The Book of Unanswered Questions
E2 6a  
160Dirty Wall
HVS 5a  
161Little ButtressD 7
162Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 Main Buttress 
164Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
165Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
166Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
167Washed Up
E6 6b  
168The Last Blasphemy
E7 6c  
169Dougie Lampkin
E6 6c  
170Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **42
171Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
172Viscount's Wall Variations
E2 6a  
173Perch WallHVS 5b **9
174FlightE1 5b 1
175Sanderson's Sorrow
E4 6b  
176The Earl of Funk
E6 6c  
177Matilda's Meander
E1 5c  
178Liz's WallE3 6b 2
179Earl CrackVS 4c ***138
180Earl ButtressE2 5c ***72
181Captain GapE2 6a  
182Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
183EvasionE1 5b *2
184StallE3 6a *3
185Trite RibE3 5c **5
186Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
187Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
188The Widge Tingle
E2 5c  
 TC 3.3 Konrad Bartelski 
190Konrad Bartelskif6B  
191The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
192Long Way Homef6B  
193Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete 
195Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
f7B ***24
196Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***35
197Dave's Startf7B 1
198Andy's Problemf7B  
 Prow Buttress 
200Prow ChimneyD 34
201Prow ButtressHVD 3c *107
202Look Who's Stalking
E1 5c 2
203Jock JonesVS 4c *47
204Tiger WallVS 4c ***224
205Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *35
206Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **17
207The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
208Clean Kill
E1 5b 2
209The ExtinguisherD 20
210Bring Your Own Bombs
HVS 5b 4
211Mousehole SlabVS 4b *83
212Rat JugglingE1 5a 32
213Sharp AreteE1 6a *21
214Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
215Sour GrapesE3 6a **40
216Boundary WallHVS 5b 8
217The Bolder Problem
E1 6a  
218Wall ChimneyD 1
219Hand TraverseVD 4
220Cut ThroatE2 6b *3
221Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
222Slab SoloVD 1
223Solo SlabVD 17
 TC 3.5 Rat Au Van 
225Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **44
 TC 3.6 Sour Grapes 
227Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 Grape Nut 
229Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **61
230Grape Nut (No block)f7B ***1
232Power Dropf6B **9
 TC 3.8 Handy Andy's 
234Problem 8f4+ 18
235Eliminate Slab
f6A 16
236Slab Wall
f4 21
237Iggy's Groove
f5+ 31
238Dyno Wall (Standing)
f5+ 23
239Dyno Wall Sit Startf6C *2
240Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **44
241Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **4
242Warm Up Aretef5 **47
243Andy Brown's Wallf7B 28
 Tc 4.1 The Flakes 
245Dink Wallf6C+ **2
246The Gimpf7A *10
247The Flakes
f7B **24
248Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***10
249Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
250Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap 
252Ron's Slabf6C **5
253Ron's Arete
f6C **14
254The John Dunne Slapf6B *81
 TC 4.3 Down Under 
256Blunt Aretef6A *2
 Tc 4.4 Australia Roof 
258Australia Rooff6B **34
259Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **11
260Rippled Wall to Right
f5+ 3
 TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall 
262Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 4
263Pinnacle Groovef4+ 6
264Back In Blackf7B  
265Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 The Pinnacle 
267Pinnacle Slabf5 3
268Dig Your Own Gravef6B+ *1
 TC 5.3 Underworld 
270Underworldf7C+ ***2
271Underworld Sans Block
f7C+ 1
272Underpantsf7B+ **13
 TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder 
274Rib Tickler
f4 11
275Boulder 24, P2
VB 8
276Easy Groovef6B *11
277Weight Gainf6B+ 1
278Feel the Burn
f7C+ ** 
 Solitary Block 
280Front Face
f5 3
 TC 5.5 Hanging Arete 
282Hanging Aretef6B+ 9
283The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
f4+ 11
 TC 6.1 Big Block 
285Phantomf6A 7
286Ghostf5 8
287Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
V4 5
 TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle 
289Pinnacle Ribf6A 2
290Pinnacle Edgef6C  
291Colt 45f7C ***1
 Unsorted Climbs 

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