Climbs 240
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 Quarried Bay 
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In Stitches
E4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand Man
E5 6c  
7Desperate for Fame
E3 5c  
8No Holes Barred
E2 5c  
9No Holds Barred
E3 6a  
E2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged Hussars
E4 6a  
12The Offwidth
E2 5b  
 The Quarry Bouldering 
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 First Boulder 
17Small Arete Left
f5+ 4
18Small Arete Right
f5+ 2
 Scoops Boulder 
f5+ 1
21Scoops Left
f5+ 1
22Scoops Right
f5+ 1
 TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block 
24Cirque du Freak
25Hanging Wall
26Allez Retour
 TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed 
28Bad Seed
29Problem Wall
 Pitch At Will 
31Pitch at Willf5  
33Dean's Arete
34Greg's Aretef7A  
 Mind Bomb Area 
36Old TimothyVS 4b 3
E2 5b  
38Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
39Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
40The Baron of Boing
E8 6c  
41Mind BombE7 6c * 
42French Duke
E9 7a  
43Early RiserE5 6a **19
44All Day Breakfast
E2 5c  
45Rowan Tree CornerD 7
46Pee PodVS 4c 2
47Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 Lower Tier 
 TC 1.4 Eraser Slab 
50Smoked Mackerelf6C *3
51The Kipper Overhangf6B **9
52Erasor SlabHVS 5b **142
53Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 4
54Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 44
55Eraser Slab Eliminate
HVS 5b 1
56The TwisterE3 6a 1
57Final Departure
E6 6b  
58New BladeE7 6c ***1
59Run a MockE2 5b  
60Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 Pedestal Wall 
62Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
63Pedestal RibHVS 4c *32
64Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 18
65Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
66Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
67The Wong Way
E3 5c  
68Awkward CrackS 4b 61
69Cave TraverseHVS 5a *9
70Cave DirectVS 5a 3
71Cave WallVS 4b 9
72Vrecka's Arete
HVS 5c  
73Deep ChimneyD 15
74Little GreenyE2 5c *9
75Twin CracksVD 3
76Right Hand CrackVD 15
77Left Hand CrackVD 6
78Duke of Earl
E4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 Green Bits 
 The Indicator Area 
81Flake CrackVS 5a *34
82Indicator crackS 4a 58
83Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 20
84Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
85Time To GoHVS 5a 21
86Flight of the Bumble Bee
E4 6a  
87Slab CornerVD *104
88Slab Corner YMC VersionS 4a *1
89TiggerificD 2
90Block and ChimneyVD 12
 Upper Tier 
92Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
93The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
94FishladderE1 5b *22
95The KipperE4 6b **5
96Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
97Problem Ribf5 5b **26
98White WallE2 6b 8
99Grey WallHS 5a *46
 TC 1.6 The Prow 
 *** Sloping Beauty Bouldering *** 
 TC 2.1 Edge of Darkness 
103Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
104Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 Hand Full 
106Hand Full Aretef6A 5
107Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty 
109Hanging Groovef6C 6b **25
110Vanishing Pointf8A  
111Sloping Beautyf7B+ **28
112Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 Undercut Arete 
114Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 Trick Arete 
116Highball Wall
f4+ **4
117Trick Aretef6B 6b **54
118Crimpy Wallf5 22
 TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse 
120Drop-down Traverse
f6C **6
121Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 13
122Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 13
123Pop Up Aretef6B 14
 TC 2.7 Cool Hand 
125Cool Hand Wallf5 9
126Cool Handf6A+ 5
127The Groovef5 3
 TC 2.8 Low Slab 
129Centre Courtf6A+ 3
130Right of Centref4+ 3
 Boundary Wall 
132The RibberE3 6a 1
133Green Ribf6A 6a *6
134Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
135Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
136Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
137Shothole RidgeVS 4c *19
138Long ShotE1 5c 1
139Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
140BladeHVS 5b 3
141Little DemonMS 16
142Paintstripper Gritter
E4 6b  
143A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
144Cave CrackMS 5
145Necessary Evil
E5 6c  
146YAB ChimneyVD 3
HVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 Simple Arete 
149Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
150Simple Slab (Right Wall)
151The Ribber
 TC 3.2 Butterfly Wall 
153Slim Shadyf8A *2
154Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
f7A *6
155Superflyf7B+ *14
 Little Buttress 
157TrifleHVS 5b 1
158The Book of Unanswered Questions
E2 6a  
159Dirty Wall
HVS 5a  
160Little ButtressD 7
161Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 Main Buttress 
163Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
164Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
165Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
166Washed Up
E6 6b  
167The Last Blasphemy
E7 6c  
168Dougie Lampkin
E6 6c  
169Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **36
170Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
171Viscount's Wall Variations
E2 6a  
172Perch WallHVS 5b **7
173FlightE1 5b 1
174Sanderson's Sorrow
E4 6b  
175The Earl of Funk
E6 6c  
176Matilda's Meander
E1 5c  
177Liz's WallE3 6b 1
178Earl CrackVS 4c ***110
179Earl ButtressE2 5c ***75
180Captain GapE2 6a  
181Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
182EvasionE1 5b *2
183StallE3 6a *2
184Trite RibE3 5c **5
185Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
186Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
187The Widge Tingle
E2 5c  
 TC 3.3 Konrad Bartelski 
189Konrad Bartelskif6B  
190The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
191Long Way Homef6B  
192Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete 
194Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
f7B ***20
195Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***31
196Dave's Startf7B  
197Andy's Problemf7B  
 Prow Buttress 
199Prow ChimneyD 34
200Prow ButtressHVD 3c *99
201Look Who's Stalking
E1 5c 1
202Jock JonesVS 4c *44
203Tiger WallVS 4c ***194
204Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *32
205Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **14
206The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
207Clean Kill
E1 5b 1
208The ExtinguisherD 20
209Bring Your Own Bombs
HVS 5b 2
210Mousehole SlabVS 4b *76
211Rat JugglingE1 5a 28
212Sharp AreteE1 6a *20
213Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
214Sour GrapesE3 6a **34
215Boundary WallHVS 5b 7
216The Bolder Problem
E1 6a  
217Wall ChimneyD 1
218Hand TraverseVD 4
219Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
220Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
221Slab SoloVD 1
222Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 Rat Au Van 
224Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **40
 TC 3.6 Sour Grapes 
226Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 Grape Nut 
228Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **55
230Power Dropf6B **5
 TC 3.8 Handy Andy's 
232Problem 8f4+ 11
233Eliminate Slab
f6A 13
234Slab Wall
f4 16
235Iggy's Groove
f5+ 21
236Dyno Wall (Standing)
f5+ 16
237Dyno Wall Sit Startf6C *2
238Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **35
239Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **4
240Warm Up Aretef5 **34
241Andy Brown's Wallf7B 26
 Tc 4.1 The Flakes 
243Dink Wallf6C+ **2
244The Gimpf7A *8
245The Flakes
f7B **18
246Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
247Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
248Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap 
250Ron's Slabf6C **5
251Ron's Arete
f6C **12
252The John Dunne Slapf6B *72
 TC 4.3 Down Under 
254Blunt Aretef6A *2
 Tc 4.4 Australia Roof 
256Australia Rooff6B **30
257Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
258Rippled Wall to Right
f5+ 3
 TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall 
260Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
261Pinnacle Groovef4+ 2
262Back In Blackf7B  
263Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 The Pinnacle 
265Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 Underworld 
267Underworldf7C+ ***2
268Underworld Sans Block
f7C+ 1
269Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder 
271Rib Tickler
f4 7
272Boulder 24, P2
f3 8
273Easy Groovef6B *8
274Weight Gainf6B+ 1
275Feel the Burn
f7C+ ** 
 Solitary Block 
277Front Face
f5 1
 TC 5.5 Hanging Arete 
279Hanging Aretef6B+ 5
280The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
f4+ 10
 TC 6.1 Big Block 
282Phantomf6A 7
283Ghostf5 8
284Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
f6B 5
 TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle 
286Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
287Pinnacle Edgef6C  
288Colt 45f7C ***1
 Unsorted Climbs 
 Hitching Stone now listed elsewhere --- Have Been DELETED 

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