Earl Crag

Climbs 221 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
18Cirque du Freakf8A+  
19Hanging Wallf7A  
20Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
22Bad Seedf6B  
23Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
25Pitch at Willf5  
26Frustrationf6B  
27Dean's Aretef7A  
28Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
30Old TimothyVS 4b 3
31ZippergateE2 5b  
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
35Mind BombE7 6c * 
36French DukeE9 7a  
37Early RiserE5 6a **17
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
39Rowan Tree CornerD 7
40Pee PodVS 4c 2
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
43The Kipper Overhangf6B **6
44Erasor SlabHVS 5b **134
45Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
47The TwisterE3 6a 1
48Erasor Slab DirectV3 6a 42
49Final DepartureE6 6b  
50New BladeE7 6c ***1
51Run a MockE2 5b  
52Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
54Pedestal WallE3 6a 7
55Pedestal RibHVS 4c *30
56Pedestal Rib DirectV3 6a 15
57Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
58Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
59The Wong WayE3 5c  
60Awkward CrackS 4b 60
61Cave TraverseHVS 5a *8
62Cave DirectVS 5a 3
63Cave WallVS 4b 9
64Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
65Deep ChimneyD 14
66Little GreenyE2 5c *9
67Twin CracksVD 3
68Right Hand CrackVD 15
69Left Hand CrackVD 6
70Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
73Flake CrackVS 5a *31
74Indicator crackS 4a 57
75Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
76Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
77Time To GoHVS 5a 20
78Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
79Slab CornerVD *93
80TiggerificD  
81Block and ChimneyVD 11
 UPPER TIER  
83Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
84The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
85FishladderE1 5b *22
86The KipperE4 6b **6
87Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
88Problem RibV1 5b **23
89White WallE2 6b 7
90Grey WallHS 5a *44
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
94Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
95Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
97Hand Full Aretef6A 1
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
99Hanging GrooveV5 6b **17
100Vanishing Pointf8A  
101Sloping BeautyV8+ **24
102Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
104Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
106Trick AreteV4 6b **43
107Crimpy Wallf5 8
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
109Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 7
110Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 9
111Pop Up Aretef6B 5
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
113Cool Hand Wallf5 2
114Cool Handf6A+ 2
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
116Centre Courtf6A+  
 BOUNDARY WALL  
118The RibberE3 6a 1
119Green RibV3 6a *6
120Green Rib Right-handV5 6b *2
121Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
122Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
123Shothole RidgeVS 4c *18
124Long ShotE1 5c 1
125Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
126BladeHVS 5b 3
127Little DemonMS 16
128Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
129A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
130Cave CrackMS 5
131Necessary EvilE5 6c  
132YAB ChimneyVD 3
133WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
135Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
136Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
137The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
139Slim ShadyV11 *2
140Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
141SuperflyV8+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
143TrifleHVS 5b 1
144The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
145Dirty WallHVS 5a  
146Little ButtressD 7
147Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
149Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
150Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
151Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
152Washed UpE6 6b  
153The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
154Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
155Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **35
156Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
157Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
158Perch WallHVS 5b **6
159FlightE1 5b 1
160Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
161The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
162Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
163Liz's WallE3 6b 1
164Earl CrackVS 4c ***103
165Earl ButtressE2 5c ***61
166Captain GapE2 6a  
167Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
168EvasionE1 5b *2
169StallE3 6a *1
170Trite RibE3 5c **5
171Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
172Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
173The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
175Konrad Bartelskif6B  
176The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
177Long Way Homef6B  
178Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
180Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***16
181Desert Island Arete (Bloc)V7 ***20
182Dave's Startf7B  
183Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
185Prow ChimneyD 30
186Prow ButtressHVD 3c *92
187Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
188Jock JonesVS 4c *44
189Tiger WallVS 4c ***182
190Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *31
191Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **13
192The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
193Clean KillE1 5b  
194The ExtinguisherD 19
195Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
196Mousehole SlabVS 4b *72
197Rat JugglingE1 5a 25
198Sharp AreteE1 6a *16
199Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
200Sour GrapesE3 6a **30
201Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
202The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
203Wall ChimneyD 1
204Hand TraverseVD 4
205Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
206Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
207Slab SoloVD 1
208Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
210Rat Au VinV3 6a **29
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
212Sour Grapes Traversef6B *6
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
214Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **46
215Kraftyf7C  
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
217Problem 8f4+ 8
218Eliminate Slabf6A 9
219Slab Wallf4 9
220Iggy's Groovef5+ 15
221Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 8
222Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **29
223Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **3
224Warm Up Aretef5 **22
225Andy Brown's Wallf7B 21
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
227The Gimpf7A *4
228The Flakesf7B **16
229Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
230Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
231Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
233Ron's Slabf6C **4
234Ron's Aretef6C **9
235The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *64
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
238Australia Rooff6B **24
239Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
240Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
242Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
243Pinnacle Groovef4+ 1
244Back In Blackf7B  
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
246Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
248Underworldf7C+ ***2
249Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
250Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
252Rib Ticklerf4 6
253Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
254Easy Groovef6B *3
255Weight Gainf6B+ 1
256Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
258Hanging Aretef6B+ 3
259The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
261Phantomf6A 4
262Ghostf5 5
263Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 3
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
265Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
266Pinnacle Edgef6C  
267Colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
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