Climbs 249
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Earl in an evening © Adam Ellwood

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.
The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 Quarried Bay 
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In Stitches
-
E4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand Man
-
E5 6c  
7Desperate for Fame
-
E3 5c  
8No Holes Barred
-
E2 5c  
9No Holds Barred
-
E3 6a  
10Thuggery
-
E2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged Hussars
-
E4 6a  
12The Offwidth
-
E2 5b 2
 The Quarry Bouldering 
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 First Boulder 
17Small Arete Left
-
f5+ 4
18Small Arete Right
-
f5+ 2
 Scoops Boulder 
20Nose
-
f5+ 1
21Scoops Left
-
f5+ 2
22Scoops Right
-
f5+ 1
 TC 1.2 Hanging Wall - Tilted Block 
24Cirque du Freak
-
f8A+  
25Hanging Wall
-
f7A  
26Allez Retour
-
f6B 3
 TC 1.3 Problem Wall - Bad Seed 
28Bad Seed
-
f6B  
29Problem Wall
-
f6C 1
 Pitch At Will 
31Pitch at Willf5  
32Frustration
-
f6B  
33Dean's Arete
-
f7A  
34Greg's Aretef7A  
 Mind Bomb Area 
36Old TimothyVS 4b 4
37Zippergate
-
E2 5b  
38Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
39Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
40The Pendulum Traversef5 1
41The Baron of Boing
-
E8 6c  
42Mind BombE7 6c * 
43French Duke
-
E9 7a  
44Early RiserE5 6a **21
45All Day Breakfast
-
E2 5c  
46Rowan Tree CornerD 8
47Pee PodVS 4c 2
48Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 Lower Tier 
 TC 1.4 Eraser Slab 
51Smoked Mackerelf6C *5
52The Kipper Overhangf6B **10
53Erasor SlabHVS 5b **170
54Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 7
55Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 47
56Eraser Slab Eliminate
-
HVS 5b 1
57The TwisterE3 6a 1
58Final Departure
-
E6 6b 1
59New BladeE7 6c ***1
60Run a MockE2 5b  
61Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *27
 Pedestal Wall 
63Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
64Pedestal RibHVS 4c *42
65Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 23
66Overhanging WallHS 4b *38
67Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
68The Wong Way
-
E3 5c  
69Awkward CrackS 4b 65
70Cave TraverseHVS 5a *11
71Cave DirectVS 5a 3
72Cave WallVS 4b 11
73Vrecka's Arete
-
HVS 5c  
74Deep ChimneyD 16
75Little GreenyE2 5c *10
76Twin CracksVD 4
77Right Hand CrackVD 15
78Left Hand CrackVD 6
79Duke of Earl
-
E4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 Green Bits 
 The Indicator Area 
82Flake CrackVS 5a *40
83Indicator crackS 4a 60
84Digitalef6C 1
85Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 22
86Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
87Time To GoHVS 5a 23
88Flight of the Bumble Bee
-
E4 6a  
89Slab CornerVD *111
90Slab Corner YMC VersionS 4a *5
91TiggerificD 7
92Block and ChimneyVD 12
 Upper Tier 
94Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
95The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
96FishladderE1 5b *25
97The KipperE4 6b **5
98Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
99Problem Ribf5 5b **30
100White WallE2 6b 11
101Grey WallHS 5a *50
 TC 1.6 The Prow 
 *** Sloping Beauty Bouldering *** 
 TC 2.1 Edge of Darkness 
105Jerry's Got a Problemf7A 2
106Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 7
107Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 2
 TC 2.2 Hand Full 
109Hand Full Aretef6A 8
110Spicyf6A *4
 TC 2.3 Sloping Beauty 
112Hanging Groovef6C 6b **34
113Vanishing Pointf8A  
114Sloping Beautyf7B+ **39
115Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 Undercut Arete 
117Undercut Aretef6B 2
 TC 2.5 Trick Arete 
119Highball Wall
-
f4+ **10
120Trick Aretef6B 6b **63
121Crimpy Wallf5 36
 TC 2.6 Low Rider - Drop Down Traverse 
123Drop-down Traverse
-
f6C **10
124Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 22
125Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 19
126Pop Up Aretef6B 26
 TC 2.7 Cool Hand 
128Cool Hand Wallf5 13
129Cool Handf6A+ 9
130The Groovef5 8
 TC 2.8 Low Slab 
132Centre Courtf6A+ 4
133Right of Centref4+ 5
 Boundary Wall 
135The RibberE3 6a 1
136Green Ribf6A 6a *6
137Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *3
138Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
139Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
140Shothole RidgeVS 4c *20
141Long ShotE1 5c 1
142Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
143BladeHVS 5b 3
144Little DemonMS 16
145Paintstripper Gritter
-
E4 6b  
146A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
147Cave CrackMS 5
148Necessary Evil
-
E5 6c  
149YAB ChimneyVD 3
150Walkabout
-
HVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 Simple Arete 
152Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
153Simple Slab (Right Wall)
-
f6B  
154The Ribber
-
f6C 1
 TC 3.2 Butterfly Wall 
156Slim Shadyf8A *2
157Butterfly Wall (Bloc)
-
f7A *6
158Superflyf7B+ *14
 Little Buttress 
160TrifleHVS 5b 1
161The Book of Unanswered Questions
-
E2 6a  
162Dirty Wall
-
HVS 5a  
163Little ButtressD 7
164Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 Main Buttress 
166Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
167Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
168Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
169Washed Up
-
E6 6b  
170The Last Blasphemy
-
E7 6c  
171Dougie Lampkin
-
E6 6c  
172Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **42
173Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
174Viscount's Wall Variations
-
E2 6a  
175Perch WallHVS 5b **9
176FlightE1 5b 1
177Sanderson's Sorrow
-
E4 6b  
178The Earl of Funk
-
E6 6c  
179Matilda's Meander
-
E1 5c  
180Liz's WallE3 6b 2
181Earl CrackVS 4c ***138
182Earl ButtressE2 5c ***82
183Captain GapE2 6a  
184Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
185EvasionE1 5b *2
186StallE3 6a *3
187Trite RibE3 5c **5
188Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
189Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
190The Widge Tingle
-
E2 5c  
 TC 3.3 Konrad Bartelski 
192Konrad Bartelskif6B  
193The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
194Long Way Homef6B  
195Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 Desert Island Arete 
197Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)
-
f7B ***28
198Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***42
199Dave's Startf7B 1
200Andy's Problemf7B  
 Prow Buttress 
202Prow ChimneyD 34
203Prow ButtressHVD 3c *108
204Look Who's Stalking
-
E1 5c 2
205Jock JonesVS 4c *47
206Tiger WallVS 4c ***226
207Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *35
208Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **17
209The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
210Clean Kill
-
E1 5b 2
211The ExtinguisherD 21
212Bring Your Own Bombs
-
HVS 5b 4
213Mousehole SlabVS 4b *86
214Rat JugglingE1 5a 35
215Sharp AreteE1 6a *23
216Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
217Sour GrapesE3 6a **40
218Boundary WallHVS 5b 8
219The Bolder Problem
-
E1 6a  
220Wall ChimneyD 2
221Hand TraverseVD 4
222Cut ThroatE2 6b *3
223Ledge ClimbHS 4a 5
224Slab SoloVD 1
225Solo SlabVD 17
 TC 3.5 Rat Au Van 
227Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **45
 TC 3.6 Sour Grapes 
229Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 Grape Nut 
231Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **61
232Grape Nut (No block)f7B ***12
233Kraftyf7C  
234Power Dropf6B **11
 TC 3.8 Handy Andy's 
236Problem 8f4+ 18
237Eliminate Slab
-
f6A 16
238Slab Wall
-
f4 25
239Iggy's Groove
-
f5+ 32
240Dyno Wall (Standing)
-
f5+ 28
241Dyno Wall Sit Startf6C *2
242Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **50
243Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **4
244Warm Up Aretef5 **52
245Andy Brown's Wallf7B 34
 Tc 4.1 The Flakes 
247Dink Wallf6C+ **3
248The Gimpf7A *10
249The Flakes
-
f7B **25
250Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***10
251Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
252Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 The John Dunne Slap 
254Ron's Slabf6C **5
255Ron's Arete
-
f6C **21
256The John Dunne Slapf6B *96
 TC 4.3 Down Under 
258Blunt Aretef6A *2
 Tc 4.4 Australia Roof 
260Australia Rooff6B **36
261Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **11
262Rippled Wall to Right
-
f5+ 3
 TC 5.1 Pinnacle Wall 
264Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 4
265Pinnacle Groovef4+ 9
266The Grooved Aretef6C *1
267Back In Blackf7B  
268Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 The Pinnacle 
270Pinnacle Slabf5 3
271Dig Your Own Gravef6B+ *1
 TC 5.3 Underworld 
273Underworldf7C+ ***2
274Underworld Sans Block
-
f7C+ 1
275Underpantsf7B+ **18
 TC 5.4 Close Range - Bridge Boulder 
277Rib Tickler
-
f4 11
278Barn Door Arete
-
f4+ 3
279Barn Door Arete SDS
-
f6A 5
280Boulder 24, P2
-
VB 8
281Easy Groovef6B *15
282Weight Gainf6B+ 2
283Feel the Burn
-
f7C+ ** 
 Solitary Block 
285Pocket Edge
-
f5+ 1
286Front Face
-
f5 4
 TC 5.5 Hanging Arete 
288Hanging Aretef6B+ 11
289The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)
-
f4+ 11
 TC 6.1 Big Block 
291Phantomf6A 7
292Ghostf5 9
293Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)
-
V4 5
 TC 6.2 Isolated Pinnacle 
295Pinnacle Ribf6A 2
296Pinnacle Edgef6C  
297Colt 45f7C ***1
 Unsorted Climbs 

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