Earl Crag

Climbs 239 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Approach notes

Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.
The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6c  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6The Underhand ManE5 6c  
7Desperate for FameE3 5c  
8No Holes BarredE2 5c  
9No Holds BarredE3 6a  
10ThuggeryE2 5c  
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a  
12The OffwidthE2 5b  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
14After Darkf7C+  
15In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
17Small Arete Leftf5+ 1
18Small Arete Rightf5+  
 SCOOPS BOULDER  
20Nosef5+ 1
21Scoops Leftf5+ 1
22Scoops Rightf5+ 1
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK  
24Cirque du Freakf8A+  
25Hanging Wallf7A  
26Allez Retourf6B  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED  
28Bad Seedf6B  
29Problem Wallf6C  
 PITCH AT WILL  
31Pitch at Willf5  
32Frustrationf6B  
33Dean's Aretef7A  
34Greg's Aretef7A  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
36Old TimothyVS 4b 3
37ZippergateE2 5b  
38Pitch at WillE1 5b *5
39Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
40The Baron of BoingE8 6c  
41Mind BombE7 6c * 
42French DukeE9 7a  
43Early RiserE5 6a **18
44All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
45Rowan Tree CornerD 7
46Pee PodVS 4c 2
47Jump to the BeatE4 6b *2
 LOWER TIER  
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
50Smoked Mackerelf6C *2
51The Kipper Overhangf6B **8
52Erasor SlabHVS 5b **139
53Erasor Slab Right Hand FinishE3 6a 4
54Erasor Slab Directf6A 6a 45
55Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
56The TwisterE3 6a 1
57Final DepartureE6 6b  
58New BladeE7 6c ***1
59Run a MockE2 5b  
60Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *24
 PEDESTAL WALL  
62Pedestal WallE3 6a 9
63Pedestal RibHVS 4c *31
64Pedestal Rib Directf6A 6a 18
65Overhanging WallHS 4b *33
66Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 5
67The Wong WayE3 5c  
68Awkward CrackS 4b 60
69Cave TraverseHVS 5a *9
70Cave DirectVS 5a 3
71Cave WallVS 4b 9
72Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
73Deep ChimneyD 15
74Little GreenyE2 5c *9
75Twin CracksVD 3
76Right Hand CrackVD 15
77Left Hand CrackVD 6
78Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
81Flake CrackVS 5a *32
82Indicator crackS 4a 58
83Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 19
84Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
85Time To GoHVS 5a 20
86Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
87Slab CornerVD *98
88Slab Corner YMC VersionS 4a *1
89TiggerificD 2
90Block and ChimneyVD 12
 UPPER TIER  
92Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
93The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
94FishladderE1 5b *22
95The KipperE4 6b **6
96Edge of DarknessE5 6c * 
97Problem Ribf5 5b **25
98White WallE2 6b 8
99Grey WallHS 5a *46
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
103Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B 1
104Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
106Hand Full Aretef6A 5
107Spicyf6A *3
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
109Hanging Groovef6C 6b **22
110Vanishing Pointf8A  
111Sloping Beautyf7B+ **27
112Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
114Undercut Aretef6B 1
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
116Highball Wallf4+ **4
117Trick Aretef6B 6b **50
118Crimpy Wallf5 20
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE  
120Drop-down Traversef6C **5
121Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+ 12
122Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 13
123Pop Up Aretef6B 14
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
125Cool Hand Wallf5 8
126Cool Handf6A+ 4
127The Groovef5 3
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
129Centre Courtf6A+ 3
130Right of Centref4+ 3
 BOUNDARY WALL  
132The RibberE3 6a 1
133Green Ribf6A 6a *6
134Green Rib Right-handf6C 6b *2
135Butterfly CrackVS 4c 5
136Butterfly WallE2 6b 1
137Shothole RidgeVS 4c *19
138Long ShotE1 5c 1
139Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
140BladeHVS 5b 3
141Little DemonMS 16
142Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
143A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
144Cave CrackMS 5
145Necessary EvilE5 6c  
146YAB ChimneyVD 3
147WalkaboutHVS 5b  
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
149Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5 3
150Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B  
151The Ribberf6C  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
153Slim Shadyf8A *2
154Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *6
155Superflyf7B+ *14
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
157TrifleHVS 5b 1
158The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
159Dirty WallHVS 5a  
160Little ButtressD 7
161Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
163Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
164Abstract AttittudeE5 6b * 
165Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
166Washed UpE6 6b  
167The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
168Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
169Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **36
170Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
171Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
172Perch WallHVS 5b **7
173FlightE1 5b 1
174Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b  
175The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
176Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
177Liz's WallE3 6b 1
178Earl CrackVS 4c ***108
179Earl ButtressE2 5c ***66
180Captain GapE2 6a  
181Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
182EvasionE1 5b *2
183StallE3 6a *2
184Trite RibE3 5c **5
185Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
186Chockstone CrackS 4a 8
187The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
189Konrad Bartelskif6B  
190The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B  
191Long Way Homef6B  
192Mow Wallf5+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
194Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***20
195Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A+ ***27
196Dave's Startf7B  
197Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
199Prow ChimneyD 34
200Prow ButtressHVD 3c *98
201Look Who's StalkingE1 5c 1
202Jock JonesVS 4c *44
203Tiger WallVS 4c ***193
204Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c *32
205Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **14
206The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
207Clean KillE1 5b 1
208The ExtinguisherD 20
209Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b 2
210Mousehole SlabVS 4b *76
211Rat JugglingE1 5a 28
212Sharp AreteE1 6a *20
213Sweet ApplesE4 6b *1
214Sour GrapesE3 6a **34
215Boundary WallHVS 5b 7
216The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
217Wall ChimneyD 1
218Hand TraverseVD 4
219Cut ThroatE2 6b *2
220Ledge ClimbHS 4a 4
221Slab SoloVD 1
222Solo SlabVD 16
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
224Rat Au Vinf6A 6a **38
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
226Sour Grapes Traversef6B *7
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
228Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **53
229Kraftyf7C  
230Power Dropf6B **4
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
232Problem 8f4+ 10
233Eliminate Slabf6A 13
234Slab Wallf4 14
235Iggy's Groovef5+ 20
236Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+ 14
237Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **35
238Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **4
239Warm Up Aretef5 **33
240Andy Brown's Wallf7B 26
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
242Dink Wallf6C+ **2
243The Gimpf7A *8
244The Flakesf7B **18
245Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***8
246Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***1
247Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
249Ron's Slabf6C **5
250Ron's Aretef6C **12
251The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *70
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
253Blunt Aretef6A *2
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
255Australia Rooff6B **29
256Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **8
257Rippled Wall to Rightf5+ 3
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
259Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4 1
260Pinnacle Groovef4+ 2
261Back In Blackf7B  
262Thunderstruckf5+ 1
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
264Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
266Underworldf7C+ ***2
267Underworld Sans Blockf7C+ 1
268Underpantsf7B+ **12
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER  
270Rib Ticklerf4 7
271Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 8
272Easy Groovef6B *5
273Weight Gainf6B+ 1
274Feel the Burnf7C+ ** 
 SOLITARY BLOCK  
276Front Facef5 1
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
278Hanging Aretef6B+ 4
279The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 9
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
281Phantomf6A 7
282Ghostf5 8
283Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 5
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
285Pinnacle Ribf6A 1
286Pinnacle Edgef6C  
287Colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED  
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