Earl Crag

Climbs 221 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Full Tiltf7B *
 QUARRIED BAY 
3SiccaE3 6b
4In StitchesE4 6c
5RiddanceE4 6a *
6The Underhand ManE5 6c
7Desperate for FameE3 5c
8No Holes BarredE2 5c
9No Holds BarredE3 6a
10ThuggeryE2 5c
11Sobieski's Winged HussarsE4 6a
12The OffwidthE2 5b
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING 
14After Darkf7C+
15In Stitchesf7B
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER 
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL - TILTED BLOCK 
18Cirque du Freakf8A+
19Hanging Wallf7A
20Allez Retourf6B
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL - BAD SEED 
22Bad Seedf6B
23Problem Wallf6C
 PITCH AT WILL 
25Pitch at Willf5
26Frustrationf6B
27Dean's Aretef7A
28Greg's Aretef7A
 MIND BOMB AREA 
30Old TimothyVS 4b
31ZippergateE2 5b
32Pitch at WillE1 5b *
33Tick-Tock ManVS 4c
34The Baron of BoingE8 6c
35Mind BombE7 6c **
36French DukeE9 7a
37Early RiserE5 6a **
38All Day BreakfastE2 5c
39Rowan Tree CornerD
40Pee PodVS 4c
41Jump to the BeatE4 6b *
 LOWER TIER 
43The Kipper Overhangf6B **
44Erasor SlabHVS 5b **
45Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB 
47The TwisterE3 6a
48Erasor Slab Directf6B
49Final DepartureE6 6b
50New BladeE7 6c ***
51Run a MockE2 5b
52Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *
 PEDESTAL WALL 
54Pedestal WallE2 6a *
55Pedestal RibHVS 4c
56Pedestal Rib DirectHVS 5b
57Overhanging WallS *
58Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a
59The Wong WayE3 5c
60Awkward CrackS 4b
61Cave TraverseHVS 5a *
62Cave DirectVS 5a
63Cave WallMVS 4b
64Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c
65Deep ChimneyD
66Little GreenyE2 5c **
67Twin CracksVD
68Right Hand CrackVD
69Left Hand CrackVD
70Duke of EarlE4 6a
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS 
 THE INDICATOR AREA 
73Flake CrackVS 5a *
74Indicator crackS 4a
75Lower IndicatorMVS 4b
76Cosmic BabyE1 5b
77Time To GoHVS 5a *
78Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a
79Slab CornerVD *
80TiggerificD
81Block and ChimneyVD
 UPPER TIER 
83Hatchet CrackE3 5c
84The Scent of a WomanE4 5c
85FishladderE1 5b
86The KipperE4 6a **
87Edge of DarknessE4 6c *
88Problem RibE1 5b *
89White WallE2 6b
90Grey WallHS 4c *
 TC 1.6 THE PROW 
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING *** 
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS 
94Rubber Arete (White Wall)f6B
95Rubber Wall (Grey Wall)f4
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL 
97Hand Full Aretef6A
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY 
99Hanging Groovef6C ***
100Vanishing Pointf8A
101Sloping Beautyf7B ***
102Sutty's Dynof7B
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE 
104Undercut Aretef6B
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE 
106Trick Aretef6B **
107Crimpy Wallf5
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER - DROP DOWN TRAVERSE 
109Drop Down Traverse Late Start Early Finishf5+
110Low Rider - Problem 3f6B
111Pop Up Aretef6B
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND 
113Cool Hand Wallf5
114Cool Handf6A+
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB 
116Centre Courtf6A+
 BOUNDARY WALL 
118The RibberE3 6a
119Green RibE1 5c *
120Green Rib Right-handE2 6b
121Butterfly CrackVS 4c
122Butterfly WallE2 6b
123Shothole RidgeVS 4c
124Long ShotE1 5c
125Mantel ManiacE3 6b
126BladeHVS 5b
127Little DemonMS
128Paintstripper GritterE4 6b
129A Stretcher CaseE1 5c
130Cave CrackMS
131Necessary EvilE5 6c
132YAB ChimneyVD
133WalkaboutHVS 5b
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE 
135Simple Arete (Left Arete)f5
136Simple Slab (Right Wall)f6B
137The Ribberf6C
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL 
139Slim Shadyf7C+ *
140Butterfly Wall (Bloc)f7A *
141Superflyf7B+ **
 LITTLE BUTTRESS 
143TrifleHVS 5b
144The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a
145Dirty WallHVS 5a
146Little ButtressD
147Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
149Distant Early WarningE6 6c *
150Abstract AttittudeE5 6b **
151Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***
152Washed UpE6 6b
153The Last BlasphemyE7 6c
154Dougie LampkinE6 6c
155Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **
156Valentine's FrogE1 5b
157Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a
158Perch WallHVS 5b **
159FlightE1 5b
160Sanderson's SorrowE4 6b
161The Earl of FunkE6 6c
162Matilda's MeanderE1 5c
163Liz's WallE3 6b
164Earl CrackVS 4c ***
165Earl ButtressE2 5b ***
166Captain GapE2 6a
167Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c
168EvasionHVS 5a
169StallE3 6a *
170Trite RibE3 5c **
171Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b
172Chockstone CrackS 4a *
173The Widge TingleE2 5c
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI 
175Konrad Bartelskif6B
176The Way Home (Roger's Arete)f6B
177Long Way Homef6B
178Mow Wallf5+
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE 
180Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7B ***
181Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f7A **
182Dave's Startf7B
183Andy's Problemf7B
 PROW BUTTRESS 
185Prow ChimneyD
186Prow ButtressMS
187Look Who's StalkingE1 5c
188Jock JonesVS 4c *
189Tiger WallMVS 4b ***
190Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c **
191Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **
192The ProwlerHVS 5a
193Clean KillE1 5b
194The ExtinguisherVD 4a
195Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b
196Mousehole SlabVS 4b *
197Rat JugglingE1 5a
198Sharp AreteE1 6a *
199Sweet ApplesE4 6b **
200Sour GrapesE3 6a **
201Boundary WallHVS 5b
202The Bolder ProblemE1 6a
203Wall ChimneyD
204Hand TraverseVD
205Cut ThroatE2 6b *
206Ledge ClimbHS 4a
207Slab SoloVD
208Solo SlabVD
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN 
210Rat Au Vinf6A *
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES 
212Sour Grapes Traversef6B *
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT 
214Grape Nut (Bloc)f7A **
215Kraftyf7C
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S 
217Problem 8f4+
218Eliminate Slabf6A
219Slab Wallf4
220Iggy's Groovef5+
221Dyno Wall (Standing)f5+
222Handy Andy's (Leach's Wall)f7A+ **
223Handy Andy's Directf7C+ **
224Warm Up Aretef5 **
225Andy Brown's Wallf7B
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES 
227The Gimpf7A *
228The Flakesf7B **
229Lager Lager Lager (Dave's Groove)f7C ***
230Lager Lager Lager (Dave's groove) sit startf7C+ ***
231Twelve Boref8A+
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP 
233Ron's Slabf6C **
234Ron's Aretef6C **
235The John Dunne Slapf6B 6b *
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER 
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF 
238Australia Rooff6B **
239Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **
240Rippled Wall to Rightf5+
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL 
242Pinnacle Wall (The Nose)f4
243Pinnacle Groovef4+
244Back In Blackf7B
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE 
246Pinnacle Slabf5
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD 
248Underworldf7C+ ***
249Underworld Sans Blockf7C+
250Underpantsf7B+ **
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE - BRIDGE BOULDER 
252Rib Ticklerf4
253Boulder 24, P2VB 3c
254Easy Groovef6B *
255Weight Gainf6B+
256Feel the Burnf7C+ **
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE 
258Hanging Aretef6B+
259The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK 
261Phantomf6A
262Ghostf5
263Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE 
265Pinnacle Ribf6A
266Pinnacle Edgef6C
267Colt 45f7C ***
 UNSORTED CLIMBS 
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- HAVE BEEN DELETED 
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These details were last updated on 14/Nov/2014

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