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These details were last updated on 17/Jun/2014

Earl Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 212 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Overhauling the crag I will finish in a few days... Sorry (PJ)

Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
17 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
19 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
21 °C
14 kph

2.8mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
12 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Full Tiltf7B * 
 QUARRIED BAY  
3SiccaE3 6b  
4In StitchesE4 6b  
5RiddanceE4 6a * 
6Desperate for FameE3 5c  
7No Holds BarredE2 5c  
8No Holds Barred Alt FinishE3 6a  
9The Underhand ManE5 6c  
 THE QUARRY BOULDERING  
11After Darkf7C+  
12In Stitchesf7B  
 TC 1.1 FIRST BOULDER  
 TC 1.2 HANGING WALL  
 TC 1.3 PROBLEM WALL  
16Problem Wallf6B  
17Greg's Aretef6B+  
 MIND BOMB AREA  
19Pitch at WillE1 5b *4
20Old TimothyVS 4b 3
21ZippergateE2 5b  
22Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
23Mind BombE7 6c ** 
24French DukeE8 7a  
25Early RiserE5 6a **14
26All Day BreakfastE2 5c  
27Rowan Tree CornerD 7
28Pee PodVS 4c 2
29Jump to the BeatE4 6b *1
30Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
31The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
32FishladderE1 5b 22
33The KipperE4 6a **4
34Edge of DarknessE4 6c * 
35Erasor SlabHVS 5b **126
36Eraser Slab EliminateHVS 5b 1
37The TwisterE3 6a 1
38Problem RibE1 5b *22
39White WallE2 6b 6
40Grey WallHS 4c *41
41Final DepartureE6 6b  
42New BladeE7 6c  
43Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *22
44Run a MockE2 5b  
 TC 1.4 ERASER SLAB  
46KipperV4 6b **5
47Erasor Slab DirectV3 6a 40
 PEDESTAL WALL  
49Pedestal WallE2 6a *7
50Pedestal RibHVS 4c 27
51Pedestal Rib DirectHVS 5b 14
52Overhanging WallS *29
53Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 4
54The Wong WayE3 5c  
55Awkward CrackS 4b 57
56Cave TraverseHVS 5a *7
57Cave WallMVS 4b 8
58Cave DirectVS 5a 3
59Vrecka's AreteHVS 5c  
60Deep ChimneyD 14
61Little GreenyE2 5c **9
62Duke of EarlE4 6a 1
63Right Hand CrackVD 13
64Left Hand CrackVD 6
 TC 1.5 GREEN BITS  
 THE INDICATOR AREA  
67Flake CrackVS 5a *29
68Indicator crackS 4a 54
69Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 18
70Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
71Time To GoHVS 5a *20
72Flight of the Bumble BeeE4 6a  
73Slab CornerVD *86
74Block and ChimneyVD 10
 TC 1.6 THE PROW  
 *** SLOPING BEAUTY BOULDERING ***  
 TC 2.1 EDGE OF DARKNESS  
78Rubber Aretef6A 1
79Rubber wallf4+ 1
 TC 2.2 HAND FULL  
81Hand Full Aretef6A 1
 TC 2.3 SLOPING BEAUTY  
83Hanging GrooveV5 6b ***15
84Vanishing Pointf8A  
85Sloping BeautyV9 6c ***23
86Sutty's Dynof7B  
 TC 2.4 UNDERCUT ARETE  
88Undercut Aretef6B  
 TC 2.5 TRICK ARETE  
90Trick AreteV4 **35
91Area 2.5, Trick Arete, Problem 3f6B 3
 TC 2.6 LOW RIDER  
93Area 2.6, Low Rider, Problem 2f5+ 4
94Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 4
95Big Low Boulder, Problem 14/Low Rider, Problem 4f6B 6a 2
 TC 2.7 COOL HAND  
97Cool Hand Wallf5+ 1
98Cool Handf6A  
 TC 2.8 LOW SLAB  
100Centre Courtf6A+  
 BOUNDARY WALL  
102The RibberE3 6a 1
103Green RibE1 5c *5
104Green Rib Right-handE2 6b 2
105Butterfly CrackVS 4c 4
106Butterfly WallE2 6a 1
107Shothole RidgeVS 4c 17
108Long ShotE1 5c 1
109Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
110BladeVS 5a 3
111Little DemonMS 13
112Cave CrackMS 5
113A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
114Paintstripper GritterE4 6b  
115Necessary EvilE5 6c  
116YAB ChimneyVD 3
 TC 3.1 SIMPLE ARETE  
118Simple Aretef6A 2
119Simple Slabf5+  
120Ribberf6B+  
 TC 3.2 BUTTERFLY WALL  
122Slim ShadyV9 *2
123Butterfly Wall (Bloc)V6 *5
124SuperflyV8 **13
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
126TrifleHVS 5b 1
127The Book of Unanswered QuestionsE2 6a  
128Little ButtressD 7
129Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
131Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
132Abstract AttittudeE5 6b ** 
133Washed UpE6 6b  
134The Last BlasphemyE7 6c  
135Dougie LampkinE6 6c  
136Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
137Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **33
138Perch WallHVS 5b **6
139?E4 6c  
140Viscount's Wall VariationsE2 6a  
141Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
142FlightE1 5b 1
143Liz's WallE3 6b  
144Matilda's MeanderE1 5c  
145The Earl of FunkE6 6c  
146Earl CrackVS 4c ***98
147Earl ButtressE2 5b ***60
148Captain GapE2 6a  
149Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
150EvasionHVS 5a 2
151StallE3 6a * 
152Trite RibE3 5c **5
153Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
154Chockstone CrackS 4a *8
155The Widge TingleE2 5c  
 TC 3.3 KONRAD BARTELSKI  
157Konrad Bartelskif6B+  
158The Way Homef6B  
159Long Way Homef6B  
160Mow Wallf6A+  
 TC 3.4 DESERT ISLAND ARETE  
162Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7A+ ***14
163Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f6C+ **18
164Dave's Startf7B  
165Andy's Problemf7B  
 PROW BUTTRESS  
167Prow ChimneyD 26
168Prow ButtressMS 87
169Look Who's StalkingE1 5c  
170Tiger WallMVS 4b ***174
171Jock JonesVS 4c *42
172Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c **28
173Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **12
174The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
175Clean KillE1 5b  
176The ExtinguisherM 17
177Mousehole SlabHVS 4c *67
178Bring Your Own BombsHVS 5b  
179Rat JugglingE1 5a 24
180Sharp AreteE1 6a *15
181Sweet ApplesE4 6b ** 
182Sour GrapesE3 6a **26
183Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
184The Bolder ProblemE1 6a  
185Wall ChimneyD 1
186Hand TraverseVD 3
187Cut ThroatE2 6b *1
188Ledge ClimbHS 4a 3
189Solo SlabVD 12
 TC 3.5 RAT AU VAN  
191Rat Au VinV3 *29
 TC 3.6 SOUR GRAPES  
193Sour Grapes TraverseV3 6a *6
 TC 3.7 GRAPE NUT  
195Grape Nut Area - Problem 14V1 5b **6
196Grape Nut (Bloc)V7 **31
197Grape Nutf7A **10
198Kraftyf7C  
199Problem 8V0 7
200Problem 9V3 7
201Problem 10V0 7
202Problem 11V1 9
203Problem 12V2 7
 TC 3.8 HANDY ANDY'S  
205Iggy's Groovef5+ 2
206Handy Andy'sV7 **29
207Handy Andy's DirectV9 **3
208Unnamed AreteV1 *14
209Andy Brown's WallV8+ 21
 TC 4.1 THE FLAKES  
211The GimpV7 *4
212The FlakesV7 **14
213Dave's Groovef7C  
214Lager Lager LagerV9 ***7
215Lager lager Lager sit startf7C+ ***1
216Twelve Boref8A+  
 TC 4.2 THE JOHN DUNNE SLAP  
218Ron's SlabV6 **4
219Ron's AreteV6 **9
220The John Dunne SlapV4 6b *60
 TC 4.3 DOWN UNDER  
 TC 4.4 AUSTRALIA ROOF  
223Australia RoofV4 **21
224Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **6
225Area 4.4, Australia Roof, Problem 5f6A+ 1
 TC 5.1 PINNACLE WALL  
227Pinnacle Wallf4 1
228Pinnacle groovef4+ 1
229Back In Blackf7B  
 TC 5.2 THE PINNACLE  
231Pinnacle Slabf5 1
 TC 5.3 UNDERWORLD  
233UnderworldV10 ***1
234UnderpantsV9 **11
 TC 5.4 CLOSE RANGE  
236Boulder 24, P1VB 4b 4
237Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 6
238Boulder 24, Problem 4.V3 *1
239Weight Gainf6B+ 1
240Feel the BurnV10 ** 
 TC 5.5 HANGING ARETE  
242Hanging Aretef6B+ 1
243The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 6
 TC 6.1 BIG BLOCK  
245Phantomf6A 3
246Ghostf5 3
247Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 2
 TC 6.2 ISOLATED PINNACLE  
249Pinnacle Ribf6A  
250Pinnacle Edgef6C  
251colt 45f7C ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
253Twin CracksVD 3
254The BladeE6 6c ***1
 HITCHING STONE NOW LISTED ELSEWHERE --- TO BE DELETED  
256No MercyV11 ***1
257BeatdownV10 * 
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