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These details were last updated on 10/Feb/2014

Earl Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 181 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Often overlooked, Earl Crag provides a wealth of mini classics and excellent bouldering. Cold, bleak and windy in the winter, it provides a shady spot on blistering summer days, and a light breeze will deter even the most persistent midges.

The edge is about 1km long and split into three main sections, with a wealth of bouldering at each end. Routes of worth are Earl Crack (VS), Erasor Slab (HVS), Fishladder (E1 5b) and Earl Buttress (E2 5c). Harder climbs include The Kipper (E4 6a) and the immaculate Desert Island Arete (E6 6c). If climbing away from the crowds is on the books, this is the Yorkshire crag for you. [Jon Dittman]

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
8 °C
17 kph

0.3mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
33 kph

1.3mm rain
12 °C
26 kph

2.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
13 kph

4.3mm rain
11 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2After Darkf7C+  
3In Stitchesf7B  
4SiccaE3 6b  
8Problem Wallf6B  
9Pitch at WillE1 5b *3
10Greg's Aretef6B+  
12KipperV4 6b **3
13Erasor SlabHVS 5b **120
14Erasor Slab DirectV3 6a 38
16Pedestal WallE2 6a *7
17Pedestal RibHVS 4c 27
18Pedestal Rib DirectHVS 5b 14
20Lower IndicatorMVS 4b 18
21Cosmic BabyE1 5b 2
22Time To GoHVS 5a *17
24Edge of DarknessE4 6c * 
25Rubber Aretef6A 1
26Rubber wallf4+ 1
28Hand Full Aretef6A 1
30Hanging GrooveV5 6b ***14
31Vanishing Pointf8A  
32Sloping BeautyV9 6c ***21
33Sutty's Dynof7B  
35Undercut Aretef6B  
37Trick AreteV4 **32
40Cool Hand Wallf5+  
41Cool Handf6A  
43Centre Courtf6A+  
45Simple Aretef6A  
46Simple Slabf5+  
48The RibberE3 6a 1
50Green RibE1 5c *5
51Green Rib Right-handE2 6b 1
52Slim ShadyV9 *2
53Butterfly Wall (Bloc)V6 *5
54SuperflyV8 **11
56Konrad Bartelskif6B+  
57The Way Homef6B  
58Long Way Homef6B  
59Mow Wallf6A+  
61Desert Island Arete Sit Start (bloc)f7A+ ***13
62Desert Island Arete (Bloc)f6C+ **17
63Desert Island AreteE6 6c ***2
64Dave's Startf7B  
65Andy's Problemf7B  
67Rat Au VinV3 *26
69Sour Grapes TraverseV3 6a *5
70Sour GrapesE3 6a **24
72Boundary WallHVS 5b 4
73Grape Nut Area - Problem 14V1 5b **5
74Grape Nut (Bloc)V7 **30
75Grape Nutf7A **10
78Iggy's Groovef5+ 1
79Handy Andy'sV7 **29
80Handy Andy's DirectV9 **3
81Andy Brown's WallV8+ 21
83The GimpV7 *4
84The FlakesV7 **14
85Grey WallHS 4c *38
86Old TimothyVS 4b 3
87Tick-Tock ManVS 4c 3
88Mind BombE7 6c ** 
89Early RiserE5 6a **12
90RiddanceE4 6a * 
91Rowan Tree CornerD 7
92Pee PodVS 4c 2
93Jump to the BeatE4 6b *1
94Hatchet CrackE3 5c  
95The Scent of a WomanE4 5c  
96FishladderE1 5b 21
97The KipperE4 6a **3
98The TwisterE3 6a 1
99Problem RibE1 5b *21
100White WallE2 6b 6
101Mantleshelf SlabHS 4b *21
102Run a MockE2 5b  
103Overhanging WallS *27
104Overhanging Wall Direct FinishE4 6a 4
105Awkward CrackS 4b 55
106Cave TraverseHVS 5a *7
107Cave WallMVS 4b 8
108Cave DirectVS 5a 3
 Climb nameGradex
109Deep ChimneyD 14
110Little GreenyE2 5c **9
111Flake CrackVS 5a *29
112Indicator crackS 4a 54
113Slab CornerVD *84
114Block and ChimneyVD 10
115Butterfly CrackVS 4c 4
116Butterfly WallE2 6a 1
117Shothole RidgeVS 4c 17
118Mantel ManiacE3 6b  
119BladeVS 5a 3
120Little DemonMS 13
121Cave CrackMS 5
122A Stretcher CaseE1 5c 1
123YAB ChimneyVD 3
124TrifleHVS 5b 1
125Little ButtressD 7
126Moonlight SaunterHVS 5b 2
127Distant Early WarningE6 6c * 
128Abstract AttittudeE5 6b ** 
129Viscount's RouteHVS 5a **29
130Perch WallHVS 5b **5
131Valentine's FrogE1 5b 1
132FlightE1 5b 1
133Liz's WallE3 6b  
134Earl CrackVS 4c ***94
135Earl ButtressE2 5b ***58
136Captain GapE2 6a  
137Main Buttress GirdleVS 4c  
138EvasionHVS 5a 2
139StallE3 6a * 
140Trite RibE3 5c **4
141Alien's Stole My Bolt KitE5 6b  
142Chockstone CrackS 4a *8
143Prow ChimneyD 25
144Prow ButtressMS 83
145Tiger WallMVS 4b ***164
146Jock JonesVS 4c *42
147Tiger Traverse 1VS 4c **26
148Tiger Traverse 2HVS 5a **11
149The ProwlerHVS 5a 4
150The ExtinguisherM 16
151Mousehole SlabHVS 4c *66
152Rat JugglingE1 5a 23
153Sharp AreteE1 6a *13
154Sweet ApplesE4 6b ** 
155Wall ChimneyD 1
156Hand TraverseVD 3
157Cut ThroatE2 6b *1
158Ledge ClimbHS 4a 3
159Solo SlabVD 12
160The John Dunne SlapV4 6b *57
161UnderworldV10 ***1
162Lager Lager LagerV9 ***6
163UnderpantsV9 **11
164Unnamed AreteV1 *11
165Feel the BurnV10 ** 
166No MercyV11 ***1
167BeatdownV10 * 
168Problem 8V0 6
169Problem 9V3 7
170Problem 10V0 6
171Problem 11V1 8
172Problem 12V2 6
173rons areteV6 **8
174Right Hand CrackVD 13
175Left Hand CrackVD 6
176Full Tiltf7B * 
177Australia RoofV4 **19
178Boulder 29 P8 (Earl Crag)V4 6a 2
179Ron's SlabV6 **3
180Long ShotE1 5c 1
181The Scoop (Boulder 26, P4)f4+ 5
182Boulder 24, P1VB 4b 4
183Boulder 24, P2VB 3c 6
184The BladeE6 6c ***1
185Australia Roof Aretef6C+ **4
186Twin CracksVD 3
187Big Low Boulder, Problem 14/Low Rider, Problem 4f6B 6a 1
188Low Rider - Problem 3f6B 3
189Area 2.6, Low Rider, Problem 2f5+ 3
190Area 2.5, Trick Arete, Problem 3f6B 2
191Area 4.4, Australia Roof, Problem 5f6A+ 1
192Lager lager Lager sit startf7C+ ***1
202Phantomf6A 1
203Ghostf5 2
205Pinnacle Ribf6A  
206Pinnacle Edgef6C  
207colt 45f7C ***1
208Hanging Aretef6B+  
209Dave's Groovef7C  
210Twelve Boref8A+  
211Weight Gainf6B+ 1
212Pinnacle Slabf5 1
213Pinnacle Wallf4 1
214Pinnacle groovef4+ 1
215Back In Blackf7B  
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Access notes
Parking for the crag is either under the pepperpot-shaped tower, or in a small car park about 0.5 km south of the pinnacle. Footpaths lead to the crag.

The crag is on private land, but climbing is tolerated. Dogs should be kept on a lead at all times and large groups should be discouraged. [Jon Dittman]
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer EBclimbing

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
In the process of updating these climbs to come into line with the new guidebooks (Total Climbing guide at the moment and YG Vol.2 when it comes out) so please bare with me if they aren't all spot on at the moment.
EBclimbing - 13/Feb/14

Watch out for chavs with dogs
Gman - 23/Apr/05

picture of Eraser Slab Direct is wrong way up.....thought it was a bit confusing!
tim - 01/Oct/03