Eastby Crag

Climbs 109 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 320m a.s.l – Faces S

Access notes
Turn right after 2nd gate and follow path alongside the wall, then zig zag up to crag.

Kestrels nesting on the Pillar, so best stay clear of this area! 15/06/10
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOLID AIR BOULDER  
2Any Given Dayf7B+ 1
3Solid Airf7B  
 BOTTOM RIGHT HAND BOULDER  
5A Pair of Teethf6B 2
6Aperitif LeftS 13
7Aperitif RightVD 15
 LEFT HAND SLABS  
9ApacheVS 4c 1
10RenegadeMS 2
11Blue MaxHVS 5a 2
12Mr GrumpyHS 4b 22
13After HoursD *55
14After Hours VariantVD 3
15Knuckle WalkerE1 5b  
16Kestrel WallMVS 4b 5
17Opening TimeD 46
18JaywalkMVS 4b *12
19Last OrdersVS 4c 40
20Descent SlabHS 4b 13
21Cracked SlabD 12
 PILLAR FRONT BUTTRESS  
23MantelshelvesHS 3c 81
24Eastby GrooveS 4a *121
25Heather FlakeVS 4c 82
26SwastikaHVS 5b *28
27Pillar FrontE2 5b ***145
28Pillar Front Left Hand FinishE2 5b  
29The Blinkered VariantE3 5c *6
30Mistaken IdentityE1 5b *24
31Pillar RibVS 4c **352
32Eastby ButtressVD ***513
33Eastby Buttress VariantVS 4c *49
34The PadderE1 5b *226
35Spiffing ViewE1 5b  
36Action TractionE4 6a 2
37Whaup EdgeVS 4b **180
38The Mason's ArmsE1 5b 2
39The CavendishVS 4c 5
40Waterfall ChimneyD 5
 CONCAVE SLAB  
42The StrugglerVS 5a 35
43The Struggler (cop out)HS 3
44The ChipperS 4b 12
45The Direct FinishE3 5c 5
46Crossing the LineE3 5c 9
47Ship of the LineE3 5c *5
48The Logical FinishVS 4c 11
49Broken AreteM 44
50Impetusf5 2
 KNUCKLE SLAB  
52Aretusf6A  
53One Cold DayE3 6a 2
54Scoop and CrackS 4a *193
55Knuckle Slab AreteHVS 5b *45
56Knees Up Mother BrownHVS 6a *7
57Index VariationVS 5a **176
58Knuckle SlabHVS 5a *201
59Enemas of the EstateVS 4b 11
60Birch Tree CrackVD 69
61Early DoorsMS 27
 NOSE BUTTRESS  
63LobeHVS 5b 7
64Ecky ThumpE3 5c *1
65Thumper DirectE5 6a 4
66ThumperE4 5c ***43
67FiltrumE2 5c **2
68Ill Gotten Gainsf8A+  
69Ill Gotten Gains Directf8A 1
70In The Third personf7B+  
71BambiE1 5b 2
72Nose ClimbS 4a ***310
73Nose Climb OriginalS 4a *87
74Rock and RollHVS 5a 8
75Recess CrackMS 9
76LucyE1 5b 5
77Birch Tree SlabMVS 4b 8
78Dawn Till DuskVS 5a 5
79Not Tonight JosephineVS 4c 4
 DISCO SLAB  
81Disco 2000f6B *2
82Deborah's Groovef6B 1
 MIST SLAB  
84Mist SlabMVS 4b 20
85Mist Slab DirectHVS 5b *10
86Slab and ChimneyVD 30
87Cheshire CatE4 6b 1
 BLOCK BUTTRESS  
89The Stone RoomE6 6c  
90GenuflexE3 6a *13
91Block ButtressHVS 5a *63
92HangsE4 6a 2
93ThrutchS 6
94Hatchback ForagerHVS 5a 17
95PulloverVS 4c 37
96StepoverMVS 4b 51
97Corner CrackS 23
98Corner GrooveS 19
99Wall AreteVS 5a 4
 DEFECTIVE BUTTRESS  
101Easy TouchE3 5c  
102The Tide ContinuesE6 6c  
103Defective Too EarlyE4 6b 2
104Defective DirectE4 6b  
105PolytetrafluroethyleneS 6
106DiacetyleneHVS 5b 2
107TriacetyleneM 3
108The Effervescing ElephantE1 5a  
109TetraphychicfluroetheneS 2
 OVER THE WALL  
111Boldness of YouthE2 5c 1
112ConDemNationE1 5c *2
113Hung ParliamentE3 6a  
114Accidental BabyE1 5c  
 QUARRY  
116The FlakeS 2
117Original RouteD 2
118Waterfall's CrackS 4a 5
119Hollybush GrooveS 4a 4
 FAR RIGHT  
121Baby, BabyVD 4
122Dead BabiesE5 6b **5
123Dead Babies DirectE5 6c **1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
anyway - a better crag than it looks from a distance, and now properly open with the new access laws.
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
um... not sure the Padder has decking potential. The lower crux is well protected, the upper is a little above the gear but not that serious (especially if a side runner is used).
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
Nice crag, faces South so good all year. Lower graded climbs get a bit overgrown in spring / summer. Good in the VS to E2 region. "The Padder" is a good first E1 lead if you like slabs, but the crux is a bit exposed with serious decking out potential. Top rope it first if unsure
Tom - 22/Jun/04