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These details were last updated on 24/Oct/2012

Eavestone Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 213 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 191m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
8 °C
28 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
6 °C
13 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
9 °C
21 kph

4.2mm rain
Cloudy
7 °C
34 kph

13.6mm rain
Cloudy
6 °C
20 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire (1998), Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 *** THE UPPER LAKE ***  
 THE FORT BUTTRESS  
3Lady of the LakeE3 6a **3
4ApacheE1 5c *1
5Wet LandingS 4b 2
6Geronimo!E3 6a *1
7PortcullisS 4a **116
8King of the Wild FrontierE4 6a ***5
9ExcaliburE2 5c *2
10Excalibur (Original finish)E1 5b *2
11The AlamoE2 5b ***45
12OublietteE2 5b **18
13OubliarêteE3 6a *1
14After the Gold RushE3 6a 2
15HallmarkE3 5c *8
16RearguardS 4a 3
17ScalpHVS 5c 2
18Scrapf4+  
19Portal Ribf5 1
20Sangattef3 1
21See the Lightf4+ 1
22French Connectionf4 1
23Whistling in the DarkHS 4b 4
24The KeepS 4a 3
25Look Out BelowVS 4c  
26The GatekeeperE3 6b *2
27For KeepsakeHVS 5b *3
28Short ChimneyVD *1
 THE CASTLE WALLS  
30CastellanHVS 5b *15
31BattlementE3 6a **8
32The Dirty RascalE2 5c 4
33King of the CastleE2 5c **21
34RampartE1 5b *7
35DitchHVS 5c 2
36Casement CrackHVD 4a 7
37DungeonS 4a 11
38StockadeVS 4c 6
39MerlonE1 6a *8
40CrenellationE1 6a *26
41MachicolationVS 4c 13
42Arrow SlitHS 4b 18
43Boiling Oilf5+ *2
44Moat-ivationf4 *6
 THE DRAWBRIDGE  
46ChainmailVS 4b 1
47Sea of TranquilityHVS 5b 1
48Dance On White HorsesE2 5c *3
49RipplesHVS 5a *4
50Yellow FeverE5 6a **1
51Watery GraveE3 5c 1
52Don't Pay the FerrymanHVS 5a 1
53Low TideHVS 5b 1
54Mean High WaterE3 6a **1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** NORTHERN BANK  
 THE LITTLE SAILS  
57The PlungeS 4a 1
58Sea DogVS 4c  
59Upper SailVS 5a 2
60Lower SailVS 5a  
61Shiver Me TimbersVS 5a  
62Cannon Fodderf5+ 1
63Ready For Actionf5 1
64Armadaf4 1
65Finish the Bowlsf4+ 1
 WALL ON MIRRORED WATER  
67Still Waterf3+ 5
68Rough Waterf5+ *2
69Relectionsf6B *2
70Thin Icef5 **3
71Troubled Waterf5+ *3
72Canada Dryf6C  
73Murky Waterf4+ 3
74Over the Looking Glassf6C ** 
75Yorkshire Waterf6B 1
 SUNNYSIDE BUTTRESS  
77SundownD *47
78SundialS 4a *40
79SunstrokeVD *49
80Winter SunshineMVS 4b 41
81Sun-UpVS 4c **45
82Sun BirdHVS 5a *21
83Sun BingoS 4a 12
84Sunday Sunf4 *1
 THE GEMSTONES  
86Baublef4+ 2
87Little Gemf6B ***7
88Too Much Too Youngf7A *1
89The Flawf5 *6
90Flawlessf5 1
91Rough Cutf5+ *1
92Little Sparklerf6B **2
93Left Gemstones Traversef5+ 1
94Pyritesf4+ 2
95Oakey Kokeyf5 3
96Beech Peachf5+ 1
97Right Gemstones Traversef4+ 1
98Paw Wallf3 1
99Claw Wallf6A 1
100Rounded Green Aretef5+ 1
 BOATHOUSE BLUFF  
102Strange AttractorE3 6a **4
103PebbledashE4 6c *1
104Heave HoE2 5c 2
105Pushing the Boat OutE3 5c 1
106Starboard CrackS 4b 2
 THE CREVASSE AREA  
108The Fabulous Number Twof7C  
109Digital Deliriumf7C+  
110Sky Diamondf7C 1
111Good FridayE3 5c *2
112Leaving the BergschrundHVS 5c *5
113Get a Gripf7A 2
114Das Kleiner SprungHVS 5c *2
115Glacier ApronVS 5a *7
116Dew Dropf7A+  
117Touching the VoidE2 6a **6
118Diamond Lightsf7C  
119Tree Slotsf5+ *2
 Climb nameGradex
 THE SERAC  
121Dick Vierraf6C  
122Daddies Sourcef6C+  
123GlissadeD 1
124Ice DanceHVS 5b  
125Cracked IceHVS 5a  
126Iced DiamondE1 5b  
127CreamE2 6a **1
128Hanging SeracE1 5b *3
129The Traversef6C+  
 MYSTERY BUTTRESS  
131Narrow SlabVD  
132Mystery ManVS 5a  
133Central ChimneyVD  
134TiptoeVD  
135CheckmateHS 4b  
136MicrochipVS 4b 1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** SOUTHERN BANK  
 KLOOF CRAG  
139African SkiesS 4a 1
140MhablatiniHVS 5c 2
141TonquaniVS 5b *2
142UmkomeniMVS 4c *1
143SekororaHS 4b 1
 THE JIB SAIL  
145WildcatVS 4b  
146SpinnakerS 4a ***73
147BowspritVS 5a *2
148Atlantic VoyagerE2 5c 1
149Jigger Me FingersE3 5c  
150Master Bates Left-HandE3 6a  
151Master Bates Right-HandE3 6a  
152Up She RisesE4 6b  
153YardarmVD 6
154Jib SailD 11
 THE GALLEON TOWER  
 UPPER TIER  
157Captain PugwashHVD 1
158Spanish MainE1 5b 1
159Galleon TowerHVS 5a 1
160Treasure IslandE2 5b **3
161Jolly RogerVS 4b 3
162Long John SliverVS 5a 1
163Banana BoatHVS 5b 1
164The Pirates EarE1 5b *2
165Brave New WorldVS 4c *1
166Savagef6A *1
167Directorf4+ 1
 LOWER TIER  
169SwashbucklerHVS 5a 1
170Roses of PicardyE4 5c  
171TrapezeHVS 5a *2
172KeelhaulHVS 5b 1
173GangplankS 4a  
174BilgewaterVD 1
 THE EAVESTONE  
176Under The EavesE2 5b 7
177The Garden of EdenHS 4b 7
178EvensoHVS 5a *13
179EavesdropperHVS 5b **33
180Lib Dem AreteE3 5c *1
181Crazy PaverE2 5c **8
182The Madcap LaughsE4 6c ***1
183Eavestone WallE3 6b ***9
184Eavestone CrackE4 6a ***4
185GenesisE5 6b ***1
186Life Begins At FortyE6 6c *** 
187Stonechat RampE3 5b 1
188StonechatE1 5c *6
189StoneragS 4a 5
190Forbidden FruitVS 4c 2
191Eavestone EliminateE1 5c 5
 THE WEDGE  
193Wedge IronHVS 5a 1
194GorillaVS 4c 1
195The Thin EndHVS 5a *7
196Fat ChanceE3 5c *22
197WedgwoodHVS 5a ***36
198The TaperHS 4b *30
199The HeelS 4a **32
200BunkeredE2 6a *5
201Rib Ticklerf5 1
202Treebeardf6A 1
203Wellington Crack IIS 4b 1
204Secret ObsessionHVS 5a 1
205Purely EsotericVS 5a 1
206The Fissure BarleyHS 4b 2
 THE PROW  
208HurricaneE1 5b 1
209ProwlerHVS 5b *1
210Prow CrackS 4b 1
211Swinging FreeE2 5b ***2
212SpitfireVS 5a 1
213The Root to SuccessE2 5c  
 ALLEY-PALLEY WALL  
215ChiminalleyS 4a 1
216Officer DibbleE1 5c 1
217AlleycatHVS 5b 1
218AllycrackerHVS 5b *5
219Going CatatonicE1 5c *3
220BackalleyS 4b 3
221The GinnelHS 4b 1
222Top CatHVS 5a 1
223AlligatorE4 6b * 
224CrocodileE5 6b ** 
 TIN PAN ALLEY  
226Jumping JackHVS 5b 1
227DragonflyHVS 5a 3
228Ride the Magic DragonHVS 5b 2
229PuffE1 5b 1
230DragonslayerE5 6a ***4
231The Meaning of LifeE2 5c **2
232Here There Be DragonsE3 5b **4
233TinVS 4c  
234PanVS 5a  
235PendragonE2 6a *1
236Don't Worry, I'm a NurseE4 6a *2
237Roots of all EvilE1 5b *2
 NOT CHECKED  
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Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12

Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10

In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07

Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07