Eavestone Crag

Climbs 233 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 191m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999), Unknown Stones,
Out of print: Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire (1998), Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 *** THE UPPER LAKE ***  
 THE FORT BUTTRESS  
3Lady of the LakeE3 6a **3
4ApacheE1 5c *1
5Wet LandingS 4b 2
6Geronimo!E3 6a *1
7PortcullisS 4a **136
8King of the Wild FrontierE4 6a ***5
9ExcaliburE2 5c *2
10Excalibur (Original finish)E1 5b *3
11The AlamoE2 5b ***51
12OublietteE2 5b **19
13OubliarÍteE3 6a *2
14After the Gold RushE3 6a 2
15HallmarkE3 5c *8
16RearguardS 4a 3
17ScalpHVS 5c 2
18Scrapf4+  
19Portal Ribf5 1
20Sangattef3 1
21See the Lightf4+ 1
22French Connectionf4 1
23Whistling in the DarkHS 4b 4
24The KeepS 4a 3
25Look Out BelowVS 4c  
26The GatekeeperE3 6b *2
27For KeepsakeHVS 5b *3
28Short ChimneyVD *1
 THE CASTLE WALLS  
30CastellanHVS 5b *19
31BattlementE3 6a **8
32The Dirty RascalE1 5c *4
33King of the CastleE2 5c *21
34RampartHVS 5b *7
35DitchHVS 5c 2
36Casement CrackVD 7
37DungeonS 4a 14
38StockadeVS 4c 12
39MerlonE1 6a *11
40CrenellationE1 5c *33
41MachicolationVS 4c 15
42Arrow SlitHS 4b 23
43Boiling Oilf5+ *3
44Moat-ivationf4 *7
 THE DRAWBRIDGE  
46ChainmailVS 4b 1
47Sea of TranquilityHVS 5b 1
48Dance On White HorsesE2 5c *3
49RipplesHVS 5a *4
50Yellow FeverE5 6a **2
51Watery GraveE3 5c 1
52Don't Pay the FerrymanHVS 5a 1
53Low TideHVS 5b 1
54Mean High WaterE3 6a **1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** NORTHERN BANK  
 THE LITTLE SAILS  
57The PlungeS 4a 1
58Sea DogVS 4c  
59Upper SailVS 5a 2
60Lower SailVS 5a  
61Shiver Me TimbersVS 5a  
62Cannon Fodderf5+ 1
63Ready For Actionf5 1
64Armadaf4 1
65Finish the Bowlsf4+ 1
 WALL ON MIRRORED WATER  
67Still Waterf3+ 9
68Rough Waterf5+ *4
69Rough Water Eliminatef6A 2
70Relectionsf6B *3
71Thin Icef5 **4
72Troubled Waterf5+ *3
73Canada Dryf6C  
74Murky Waterf4+ 3
75Over the Looking Glassf6C ** 
76Yorkshire Waterf6B 3
 SUNNYSIDE BUTTRESS  
78SundownD *55
79SundialS 4a *48
80SunstrokeVD *56
81Winter SunshineMVS 4b 48
82Sun-UpVS 4c **52
83Sun BirdHVS 5a *27
84Sun BingoS 4a 15
85Sunday Sunf4 *1
 THE GEMSTONES  
87Baublef4+ 2
88Little Gemf6B ***7
89Too Much Too Youngf7A *1
90The Flawf5 *6
91Flawlessf5 1
92Rough Cutf5+ *1
93Little Sparklerf6B **3
94Left Gemstones Traversef5+ 2
95Pyritesf4+ 2
96Oakey Kokeyf5 5
97Beech Peachf5+ 1
98Right Gemstones Traversef4+ 1
99Paw Wallf3 1
100Claw Wallf6A 1
101Rounded Green Aretef5+ 1
 BOATHOUSE BLUFF  
103Strange AttractorE3 6a **4
104PebbledashE4 6c *1
105Heave HoE2 5c 2
106Pushing the Boat OutE3 5c 1
107Starboard CrackS 4b 2
 THE CREVASSE AREA  
109The Fabulous Number Twof7C  
110Digital Deliriumf7C+  
111Sky Diamondf7C 1
112Good FridayE3 5c *2
113Leaving the BergschrundHVS 5c *5
114Get a Gripf7A 6
115Das Kleiner SprungHVS 5c *2
116Glacier ApronVS 5a *7
117Dew Dropf7A+  
118Touching the VoidE2 6a **6
119Diamond Lightsf7C  
120Tree Slotsf5+ *3
 THE SERAC  
122Dick Vierraf6C 1
123Daddies Sourcef6C+  
124GlissadeD 2
125Ice DanceHVS 5b  
126Cracked IceHVS 5a  
127Iced DiamondE1 5b  
128CreamE2 6a **1
129Hanging SeracE1 5b *3
130The Traversef6C+ 1
 MYSTERY BUTTRESS  
132Narrow SlabVD  
133Mystery ManVS 5a  
134Central ChimneyVD  
135TiptoeVD  
136CheckmateHS 4b  
137MicrochipVS 4b 1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** SOUTHERN BANK  
 KLOOF CRAG  
140African SkiesS 4a 1
141MhablatiniHVS 5c 2
142TonquaniVS 5b *2
143UmkomeniMVS 4c *1
144SekororaHS 4b 1
 THE JIB SAIL  
146WildcatVS 4b  
147SpinnakerS 4a ***81
148BowspritVS 5a *2
149Atlantic VoyagerE2 5c 1
150Jigger Me FingersE3 5c  
151Master Bates Left-HandE3 6a  
152Master Bates Right-HandE3 6a  
153Up She RisesE4 6b  
154YardarmVD 7
155Jib SailD 12
 THE GALLEON TOWER  
 UPPER TIER  
158Captain PugwashHVD 1
159Spanish MainE1 5b 1
160Galleon TowerHVS 5a 1
161Treasure IslandE2 5b **3
162Jolly RogerVS 4b 3
163Long John SliverVS 5a 1
164Banana BoatHVS 5b 1
165The Pirates EarE1 5b *2
166Brave New WorldVS 4c *1
167Savagef6A *1
168Directorf4+ 1
 LOWER TIER  
170SwashbucklerHVS 5a 1
171Roses of PicardyE4 5c  
172TrapezeHVS 5a *2
173KeelhaulHVS 5b 1
174GangplankS 4a  
175BilgewaterVD 1
 SOUTH BANK BLOC  
177Black Hand Jackf7A ***3
178Arcf6A *2
179Black Pool Rockf6C *1
180Black Opsf6A+ 1
181Blackfishf5 1
 THE CABIN IN THE WOODS BLOC  
183The Innocentsf6B **2
184The Hauntingf6C ***1
185The Sixth Sensef6A **4
186Texas Chainsaw Moussakaf6B+ ***2
187The Grudgef4+ 4
188The Spiral Staircasef6C+ **1
189The People Under the Stairsf5+ **3
190Final Destinationf6B+ ***1
191Put a Donk on itf6A+ **2
192The Hills Have Eyesf6B+ 1
193Killer on the Campusf6B 1
194The Mistf3 2
195The Blair Witch Projectf7A ***1
 THE EAVESTONE  
197Under The EavesE2 5b 7
198The Garden of EdenHS 4b 8
199EvensoHVS 5a *15
200EavesdropperHVS 5a **39
201Lib Dem AreteE3 5c *2
202Crazy PaverE2 5c **10
203The Madcap LaughsE4 6c ***1
204Eavestone WallE3 6b ***11
205Eavestone CrackE4 6a ***4
206GenesisE5 6b ***1
207Life Begins At FortyE6 6c *** 
208Stonechat RampE3 5b 2
209StonechatE1 5c *7
210StoneragS 4a 7
211Forbidden FruitVS 4c 4
212Eavestone EliminateE1 5c 8
 THE WEDGE  
214Wedge IronHVS 5a 1
215GorillaVS 4c 1
216The Thin EndHVS 5a *7
217Fat ChanceE3 5c *28
218WedgwoodHVS 5a **43
219The TaperHS 4b *34
220The HeelS 4c *38
221BunkeredE2 6a *5
222Rib Ticklerf5 1
223Treebeardf6A 1
224Wellington Crack IIS 4b 1
225Secret ObsessionHVS 5a 1
226Purely EsotericVS 5a 1
227The Fissure BarleyHS 4b 2
 THE PROW  
229HurricaneE1 5b 1
230ProwlerHVS 5b *1
231Prow CrackS 4b 1
232Swinging FreeE2 5b ***3
233SpitfireVS 5a 1
234The Root to SuccessE2 5c  
 ALLEY-PALLEY WALL  
236ChiminalleyS 4a 1
237Officer DibbleE1 5c 1
238AlleycatHVS 5b 1
239AllycrackerHVS 5b *5
240Going CatatonicE1 5c *3
241BackalleyS 4b 3
242The GinnelHS 4b 1
243Top CatHVS 5a 1
244AlligatorE4 6b *1
245CrocodileE5 6b **2
 TIN PAN ALLEY  
247Jumping JackHVS 5b 1
248DragonflyHVS 5a 3
249Ride the Magic DragonHVS 5b 2
250PuffE1 5b 1
251DragonslayerE5 6a ***5
252Vermithraxf7A *1
253The Meaning of LifeE2 5c **3
254Here There Be DragonsE3 5b **4
255TinVS 4c  
256PanVS 5a 1
257PendragonE2 6a *1
258Don't Worry, I'm a NurseE4 6a *2
259Roots of all EvilE1 5b *2
 NOT CHECKED  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07