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These details were last updated on 24/Oct/2012

Eavestone Crag

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 205 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 191m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire (1998), Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 *** THE UPPER LAKE ***  
 THE FORT BUTTRESS  
3Lady of the LakeE3 6a **1
4ApacheE1 5c *1
5Wet LandingS 4b 2
6PortcullisS 4a **99
7King of the Wild FrontierE4 6a ***2
8ExcaliburE2 5c *1
9Excalibur (Original finish)E1 5b *1
10The AlamoE2 5b ***36
11OublietteE2 5b **15
12After the Gold RushE3 6a 1
13HallmarkE3 5c *6
14RearguardS 4a 1
15ScalpHVS 5c 2
16Portal Ribfont 5 1
17Sangattefont 3 1
18See the Lightfont 4+ 1
19French Connectionfont 4 1
20Whistling in the DarkHS 4b 4
21The KeepS 4a 3
22Look Out BelowVS 4c  
23The GatekeeperE3 6b *1
24For KeepsakeHVS 5b *3
25Short ChimneyVD *1
 THE CASTLE WALLS  
27CastellanHVS 5b *10
28BattlementE3 6a **7
29The Dirty RascalE2 5c 3
30King of the CastleE2 5c **16
31RampartE1 5b *5
32DitchHVS 5c 1
33Casement CrackHVD 4a 6
34DungeonS 4a 9
35StockadeVS 4c 4
36MerlonE1 6a *5
37CrenellationE1 6a *21
38MachicolationVS 4c 12
39Arrow SlitHS 4b 15
40Boiling Oilfont 5+ *1
41Moat-ivationfont 4 *5
 THE DRAWBRIDGE  
43ChainmailVS 4b  
44Sea of TranquilityHVS 5b 1
45Dance On White HorsesE2 5c * 
46RipplesHVS 5a *2
47Watery GraveE3 5c 1
48Don't Pay the FerrymanHVS 5a 1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** NORTHERN BANK  
 THE LITTLE SAILS  
51The PlungeS 4a 1
52Sea DogVS 4c  
53Upper SailVS 5a 2
54Lower SailVS 5a  
55Shiver Me TimbersVS 5a  
56Cannon Fodderfont 5+ 1
57Ready For Actionfont 5 1
58Armadafont 4 1
59Finish the Bowlsfont 4+ 1
 WALL ON MIRRORED WATER  
61Still Waterfont 3+ 3
62Rough Waterfont 5+ *1
63Relectionsf6B *1
64Thin Icefont 5 **2
65Troubled Waterfont 5+ *2
66Canada Dryf6C  
67Murky Waterfont 4+ 1
68Over the Looking Glassf6C ** 
69Yorkshire Waterf6B  
 SUNNYSIDE BUTTRESS  
71SundownD *40
72SundialS 4a *33
73SunstrokeVD *42
74Winter SunshineMVS 4b 33
75Sun-UpVS 4c **37
76Sun BirdHVS 5a *16
77Sun BingoS 4a 11
78Sunday Sunfont 4 *1
 THE GEMSTONES  
80Baublefont 4+ 1
81Little Gemf6B ***4
82Too Much Too Youngf7A * 
83The Flawfont 5 *6
84Flawlessfont 5 1
85Rough Cutfont 5+ *1
86Little Sparklerf6B **2
87Left Gemstones Traversefont 5+ 1
88Pyritesfont 4+ 2
89Oakey Kokeyfont 5 2
90Beech Peachfont 5+ 1
91Right Gemstones Traversefont 4+ 1
92Paw Wallfont 3 1
93Claw Wallf6A 1
94Rounded Green Aretefont 5+ 1
 BOATHOUSE BLUFF  
96Strange AttractorE3 6a **3
97PebbledashE4 6c * 
98Heave HoE2 5c 1
99Pushing the Boat OutE3 5c 1
100Starboard CrackS 4b 2
 THE CREVASSE AREA  
102The Fabulous Number Twof7C  
103Digital Deliriumf7C+  
104Sky Diamondf7C 1
105Good FridayE3 5c *2
106Leaving the BergschrundHVS 5c *4
107Get a Gripf7A 1
108Das Kleiner SprungHVS 5c *1
109Glacier ApronVS 5a *6
110Dew Dropf7A+  
111Touching the VoidE2 6a **5
112Diamond Lightsf7C  
113Tree Slotsfont 5+ *1
 THE SERAC  
115Dick Vierraf6C  
 Climb nameGradex
116Daddies Sourcef6C+  
117GlissadeD 1
118Ice DanceHVS 5b  
119Cracked IceHVS 5a  
120Iced DiamondE1 5b  
121CreamE2 6a **1
122Hanging SeracE1 5b *1
123The Traversef6C+  
 MYSTERY BUTTRESS  
125Narrow SlabVD  
126Mystery ManVS 5a  
127Central ChimneyVD  
128TiptoeVD  
129CheckmateHS 4b  
130MicrochipVS 4b 1
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** SOUTHERN BANK  
 KLOOF CRAG  
133African SkiesS 4a 1
134MhablatiniHVS 5c 2
135TonquaniVS 5b *2
136UmkomeniMVS 4c *1
137SekororaHS 4b 1
 THE JIB SAIL  
139WildcatVS 4b  
140SpinnakerS 4a ***62
141BowspritVS 5a *2
142Atlantic VoyagerE2 5c 1
143Jigger Me FingersE3 5c  
144Master Bates Left-HandE3 6a  
145Master Bates Right-HandE3 6a  
146Up She RisesE4 6b  
147YardarmVD 5
148Jib SailD 10
 THE GALLEON TOWER  
 UPPER TIER  
151Captain PugwashHVD 1
152Spanish MainE1 5b 1
153Galleon TowerHVS 5a 1
154Treasure IslandE2 5b **3
155Jolly RogerVS 4b 3
156Long John SliverVS 5a 1
157Banana BoatHVS 5b 1
158The Pirates EarE1 5b *2
159Brave New WorldVS 4c *1
160Savagef6A *1
161Directorfont 4+ 1
 LOWER TIER  
163SwashbucklerHVS 5a 1
164Roses of PicardyE4 5c  
165TrapezeHVS 5a *2
166KeelhaulHVS 5b 1
167GangplankS 4a  
168BilgewaterVD 1
 THE EAVESTONE  
170Under The EavesE2 5b 5
171The Garden of EdenHS 4b 5
172EvensoHVS 5a *10
173EavesdropperHVS 5b **22
174Crazy PaverE2 5c **5
175Eavestone WallE3 6b ***7
176Eavestone CrackE4 6a ***4
177GenesisE5 6b ***1
178Life Begins At FortyE6 6c *** 
179Stonechat RampE3 5b 1
180StonechatE1 5c *5
181StoneragS 4a 4
182Forbidden FruitVS 4c 2
183Eavestone EliminateE1 5c 4
 THE WEDGE  
185Wedge IronHVS 5a 1
186GorillaVS 4c 1
187The Thin EndHVS 5a *4
188Fat ChanceE3 5c *17
189WedgwoodHVS 5a ***29
190The TaperHS 4b *24
191The HeelS 4a **25
192BunkeredE2 6a *4
193Rib Ticklerfont 5 1
194Treebeardf6A 1
195Wellington Crack IIS 4b 1
196Secret ObsessionHVS 5a 1
197Purely EsotericVS 5a 1
198The Fissure BarleyHS 4b 2
 THE PROW  
200HurricaneE1 5b 1
201ProwlerHVS 5b *1
202Prow CrackS 4b 1
203Swinging FreeE2 5b ***2
204SpitfireVS 5a 1
205The Root to SuccessE2 5c  
 ALLEY-PALLEY WALL  
207ChiminalleyS 4a 1
208Officer DibbleE1 5c 1
209AlleycatHVS 5b 1
210AllycrackerHVS 5b *5
211Going CatatonicE1 5c *2
212BackalleyS 4b 2
213The GinnelHS 4b 1
214Top CatHVS 5a 1
215AlligatorE4 6b * 
216CrocodileE5 6b ** 
 TIN PAN ALLEY  
218Jumping JackHVS 5b 1
219DragonflyHVS 5a 3
220Ride the Magic DragonHVS 5b 2
221PuffE1 5b 1
222DragonslayerE5 6a ***3
223The Meaning of LifeE2 5c **2
224Here There Be DragonsE3 5b **3
225TinVS 4c  
226PanVS 5a  
227PendragonE2 6a * 
228Don't Worry, I'm a NurseE4 6a *1
229Roots of all EvilE1 5b *1
 NOT CHECKED  
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23 ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove ? - 31/Mar/12

Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH ? - 28/Mar/10

In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07

Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07