Eavestone Crag

Climbs 213 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 191m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]

or 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire (1998), Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 *** THE UPPER LAKE *** 
 THE FORT BUTTRESS 
3Lady of the LakeE3 6a **
4ApacheE1 5c *
5Wet LandingS 4b
6Geronimo!E3 6a *
7PortcullisS 4a **
8King of the Wild FrontierE4 6a ***
9ExcaliburE2 5c *
10Excalibur (Original finish)E1 5b *
11The AlamoE2 5b ***
12OublietteE2 5b **
13OubliarêteE3 6a *
14After the Gold RushE3 6a
15HallmarkE3 5c *
16RearguardS 4a
17ScalpHVS 5c
18Scrapf4+
19Portal Ribf5
20Sangattef3
21See the Lightf4+
22French Connectionf4
23Whistling in the DarkHS 4b
24The KeepS 4a
25Look Out BelowVS 4c
26The GatekeeperE3 6b *
27For KeepsakeHVS 5b *
28Short ChimneyVD *
 THE CASTLE WALLS 
30CastellanHVS 5b *
31BattlementE3 6a **
32The Dirty RascalE2 5c
33King of the CastleE2 5c **
34RampartE1 5b *
35DitchHVS 5c
36Casement CrackHVD 4a
37DungeonS 4a
38StockadeVS 4c
39MerlonE1 6a *
40CrenellationE1 6a *
41MachicolationVS 4c
42Arrow SlitHS 4b
43Boiling Oilf5+ *
44Moat-ivationf4 *
 THE DRAWBRIDGE 
46ChainmailVS 4b
47Sea of TranquilityHVS 5b
48Dance On White HorsesE2 5c *
49RipplesHVS 5a *
50Yellow FeverE5 6a **
51Watery GraveE3 5c
52Don't Pay the FerrymanHVS 5a
53Low TideHVS 5b
54Mean High WaterE3 6a **
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** NORTHERN BANK 
 THE LITTLE SAILS 
57The PlungeS 4a
58Sea DogVS 4c
59Upper SailVS 5a
60Lower SailVS 5a
61Shiver Me TimbersVS 5a
62Cannon Fodderf5+
63Ready For Actionf5
64Armadaf4
65Finish the Bowlsf4+
 WALL ON MIRRORED WATER 
67Still Waterf3+
68Rough Waterf5+ *
69Relectionsf6B *
70Thin Icef5 **
71Troubled Waterf5+ *
72Canada Dryf6C
73Murky Waterf4+
74Over the Looking Glassf6C **
75Yorkshire Waterf6B
 SUNNYSIDE BUTTRESS 
77SundownD *
78SundialS 4a *
79SunstrokeVD *
80Winter SunshineMVS 4b
81Sun-UpVS 4c **
82Sun BirdHVS 5a *
83Sun BingoS 4a
84Sunday Sunf4 *
 THE GEMSTONES 
86Baublef4+
87Little Gemf6B ***
88Too Much Too Youngf7A *
89The Flawf5 *
90Flawlessf5
91Rough Cutf5+ *
92Little Sparklerf6B **
93Left Gemstones Traversef5+
94Pyritesf4+
95Oakey Kokeyf5
96Beech Peachf5+
97Right Gemstones Traversef4+
98Paw Wallf3
99Claw Wallf6A
100Rounded Green Aretef5+
 BOATHOUSE BLUFF 
102Strange AttractorE3 6a **
103PebbledashE4 6c *
104Heave HoE2 5c
105Pushing the Boat OutE3 5c
106Starboard CrackS 4b
 THE CREVASSE AREA 
108The Fabulous Number Twof7C
109Digital Deliriumf7C+
110Sky Diamondf7C
111Good FridayE3 5c *
112Leaving the BergschrundHVS 5c *
113Get a Gripf7A
114Das Kleiner SprungHVS 5c *
115Glacier ApronVS 5a *
116Dew Dropf7A+
117Touching the VoidE2 6a **
118Diamond Lightsf7C
119Tree Slotsf5+ *
 THE SERAC 
121Dick Vierraf6C
122Daddies Sourcef6C+
123GlissadeD
124Ice DanceHVS 5b
125Cracked IceHVS 5a
126Iced DiamondE1 5b
127CreamE2 6a **
128Hanging SeracE1 5b *
129The Traversef6C+
 MYSTERY BUTTRESS 
131Narrow SlabVD
132Mystery ManVS 5a
133Central ChimneyVD
134TiptoeVD
135CheckmateHS 4b
136MicrochipVS 4b
 *** THE LOWER LAKE *** SOUTHERN BANK 
 KLOOF CRAG 
139African SkiesS 4a
140MhablatiniHVS 5c
141TonquaniVS 5b *
142UmkomeniMVS 4c *
143SekororaHS 4b
 THE JIB SAIL 
145WildcatVS 4b
146SpinnakerS 4a ***
147BowspritVS 5a *
148Atlantic VoyagerE2 5c
149Jigger Me FingersE3 5c
150Master Bates Left-HandE3 6a
151Master Bates Right-HandE3 6a
152Up She RisesE4 6b
153YardarmVD
154Jib SailD
 THE GALLEON TOWER 
 UPPER TIER 
157Captain PugwashHVD
158Spanish MainE1 5b
159Galleon TowerHVS 5a
160Treasure IslandE2 5b **
161Jolly RogerVS 4b
162Long John SliverVS 5a
163Banana BoatHVS 5b
164The Pirates EarE1 5b *
165Brave New WorldVS 4c *
166Savagef6A *
167Directorf4+
 LOWER TIER 
169SwashbucklerHVS 5a
170Roses of PicardyE4 5c
171TrapezeHVS 5a *
172KeelhaulHVS 5b
173GangplankS 4a
174BilgewaterVD
 THE EAVESTONE 
176Under The EavesE2 5b
177The Garden of EdenHS 4b
178EvensoHVS 5a *
179EavesdropperHVS 5b **
180Lib Dem AreteE3 5c *
181Crazy PaverE2 5c **
182The Madcap LaughsE4 6c ***
183Eavestone WallE3 6b ***
184Eavestone CrackE4 6a ***
185GenesisE5 6b ***
186Life Begins At FortyE6 6c ***
187Stonechat RampE3 5b
188StonechatE1 5c *
189StoneragS 4a
190Forbidden FruitVS 4c
191Eavestone EliminateE1 5c
 THE WEDGE 
193Wedge IronHVS 5a
194GorillaVS 4c
195The Thin EndHVS 5a *
196Fat ChanceE3 5c *
197WedgwoodHVS 5a ***
198The TaperHS 4b *
199The HeelS 4a **
200BunkeredE2 6a *
201Rib Ticklerf5
202Treebeardf6A
203Wellington Crack IIS 4b
204Secret ObsessionHVS 5a
205Purely EsotericVS 5a
206The Fissure BarleyHS 4b
 THE PROW 
208HurricaneE1 5b
209ProwlerHVS 5b *
210Prow CrackS 4b
211Swinging FreeE2 5b ***
212SpitfireVS 5a
213The Root to SuccessE2 5c
 ALLEY-PALLEY WALL 
215ChiminalleyS 4a
216Officer DibbleE1 5c
217AlleycatHVS 5b
218AllycrackerHVS 5b *
219Going CatatonicE1 5c *
220BackalleyS 4b
221The GinnelHS 4b
222Top CatHVS 5a
223AlligatorE4 6b *
224CrocodileE5 6b **
 TIN PAN ALLEY 
226Jumping JackHVS 5b
227DragonflyHVS 5a
228Ride the Magic DragonHVS 5b
229PuffE1 5b
230DragonslayerE5 6a ***
231The Meaning of LifeE2 5c **
232Here There Be DragonsE3 5b **
233TinVS 4c
234PanVS 5a
235PendragonE2 6a *
236Don't Worry, I'm a NurseE4 6a *
237Roots of all EvilE1 5b *
 NOT CHECKED 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean.
Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12
Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green.
PeteH - 28/Mar/10
In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop.
Crofty - 04/May/07
Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb. Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on. Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention.
Fiend - 28/Mar/07
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These details were last updated on 24/Oct/2012

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