Climbs 121 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 274m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2The VergerE1 5c **
3Pulpit ChimneyVD
4MagnificatHVS 5a ***
6Letterbox ClimbD
7MicrocrackHVS 5a *
8The CreationE2 5c ***
9BarleycornE3 5b
10On the EdgeE6 6b ***
11IllusionHS 4b *
12AftermathE5 5c ***
13Doomed OasisE6 6b **
14Wild AbandonE5 6b **
15Hook RouteE1 5b *
17Tree CracksS
18Buttress RouteVD *
19FootpatterVS 4c *
20PendulumE1 5b *
21Foreign BodiesE2 5c
22StretcherE1 5b
25Kandahar GrooveS
26Roc's Nest ChimneyHS **
27DhobiMVS 4b
29Hawk SlabS
30AggripaE1 5b *
31DanielVS 4c
32TombstoneE2 5c **
33JezebelHS 4b
34By-passS 4a
35AutobahnE2 5c *
36Phillipa's RidgeVS 4c
38North Wall EliminateHVS 5a **
39MastermindE4 5c ***
40The ScrykingE5 6a
41Comet WallHVS 5a *
42The Comet's TrailE1 5b **
45Savage SentenceE1 5b *
46HaberdasheryE2 6a
47The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **
48WinklepickerHVS 5a **
49Shelter ClimbD
51Ledge and CrackD
53Double TopHVS 5a
55Thin Man's DelightS
56Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 5b *
57Caveman's CornerS
58North Buttress CrackHS
59North Buttress OrdinaryS *
60North Buttress DirectHVS 5a
61Spring FeverVS 4c
62NobutjustHVS 5b
63ShindigE2 5c **
66Mop Top Arete Leftf6A
67Mop Top Arete Rightf6A
69Obvious Toothf5+
71Bilberry Bypassf6C *
73A Little Sparklef7A **
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Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08
Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 14/Jan/2014

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