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View larger mapGrid Ref SE 163634 (OS Landranger #99)

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These details were last updated on 14/Jan/2014


North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 121 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 274m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
11 °C
19 kph

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
8 °C
28 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
7 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
27 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Yorkshire Dales

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol2,
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2The VergerE1 5c **1
3Pulpit ChimneyVD 2
4MagnificatHVS 5a ***1
6Letterbox ClimbD 2
7MicrocrackHVS 5a *1
8The CreationE2 5c ***6
9IllusionHS 4b *1
10AftermathE5 5c ***1
11Wild AbandonE5 6b **1
12Hook RouteE1 5b *3
14Tree CracksS 2
15Buttress RouteVD *6
16FootpatterVS 4c *3
17PendulumE1 5b *1
18Foreign BodiesE2 5c  
19StretcherE1 5b 1
21NippemS 1
22Kandahar GrooveS 1
23Roc's Nest ChimneyHS **6
24DhobiMVS 4b 1
26Hawk SlabS 1
27AggripaE1 5b *1
28DanielVS 4c 1
29TombstoneE2 5c **1
30JezebelHS 4b 2
31By-passS 4a 1
32AutobahnE2 5c *2
33Phillipa's RidgeVS 4c 1
35North Wall EliminateHVS 5a **10
 Climb nameGradex
36MastermindE4 5c ***2
37The ScrykingE5 6a 1
38Comet WallHVS 5a *8
39The Comet's TrailE1 5b **1
40ScissorsD 1
42Savage SentenceE1 5b *1
43HaberdasheryE2 6a 2
44The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **2
45WinklepickerHVS 5a **1
46Shelter ClimbD 2
48Ledge and CrackD 1
50Double TopHVS 5a 2
52Thin Man's DelightS 1
53Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 5b *1
54Caveman's CornerS 1
55North Buttress CrackHS 2
56North Buttress OrdinaryS *1
57North Buttress DirectHVS 5a 3
58Spring FeverVS 4c 1
59NobutjustHVS 5b 1
60ShindigE2 5c **1
63Mop Top Arete Leftf6A 4
64Mop Top Arete Rightf6A 4
66Obvious Toothf5+ 2
69A Little Sparklef7A **5
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Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10

Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08

Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08

Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06