Climbs 121
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 274m a.s.l
Faces N

Anyone know what this is? © Carless

Crag features

Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Access Advice

No access issues reported in recent years.

Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08
Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Number One Butress 
2The Verger
-
E1 5c **1
3Pulpit ChimneyVD 2
4Magnificat
-
HVS 5a ***3
 Number Two Buttress 
6Letterbox Climb
-
D 2
7Microcrack
-
HVS 5a *3
8The CreationE2 5c ***7
9BarleycornE3 5b  
10On the EdgeE6 6b *** 
11Illusion
-
HS 4b *1
12AftermathE5 5c ***3
13Doomed OasisE6 6b **3
14Wild AbandonE5 6b **1
15Hook Route
-
E1 5b *4
 Number Three Buttress 
17Tree Cracks
-
S 3
18Buttress Route
-
VD *9
19ClodhopperHS 4c 1
20Footpatter
-
VS 4c *4
21PendulumE1 5b *1
22Foreign BodiesE2 5c  
23StretcherE1 5b 1
 Number Four Buttress 
25Nippem
-
S 1
26Kandahar Groove
-
S 1
27Roc's Nest Chimney
-
HS **7
28Dhobi
-
MVS 4b 1
 Number Five Buttress 
30Hawk Slab
-
S 2
31Aggripa
-
E1 5b *1
32Daniel
-
VS 4c 1
33Tombstone
-
E2 5c **1
34Jezebel
-
HS 4b 2
35By-pass
-
S 4a 2
36Autobahn
-
E2 5c *2
37Phillipa's Ridge
-
VS 4c 1
 Comet Buttress 
39North Wall Eliminate
-
HVS 5a **12
40MastermindE4 5c ***2
41The ScrykingE5 6a 1
42Comet WallHVS 5a *10
43The Comet's TrailE1 5b **2
44ScissorsD 2
 The Long Wall 
46Savage Sentence
-
E1 5b *1
47HaberdasheryE2 6a 2
48The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **2
49The SlotS 4a 1
50Winklepicker
-
HVS 5a **1
51Shelter Climb
-
D 2
 Needle's High Buttress 
53Ledge and Crack
-
D 1
 North Buttress Block 
55Double Top
-
HVS 5a 3
 North Buttress 
57Thin Man's Delight
-
S 1
58Midsummer Night's Dream
-
HVS 5b *1
59Caveman's Corner
-
S 1
60North Buttress Crack
-
HS 2
61North Buttress OrdinaryS *1
62North Buttress Direct
-
HVS 5a 3
63Spring Fever
-
VS 4c 1
64Nobutjust
-
HVS 5b 1
65Shindig
-
E2 5c **1
 ***** Guisecliff Bouldering ***** 
 The Mop Top Bloc 
68Mop Top Pebbles leftf6A 4
69Mop Top Pebbles Rightf6B 3
70Mop Top Arete Leftf6A 13
71Mop Top Arete Rightf6A 15
72Kim Popf7B ** 
73Kim Pop Easyf6C **4
74Applesf6A+ 2
75Apples Rightf6B+ *2
 Yorke Prow 
77Obvious Toothf5+ 2
 Folly Prow 
79Bilberry Bypassf6C *1
 Diamond Crack 
81A Little Sparklef7A **24
 Quarry 
83Jawsf7C  
 Being Sorted 
85The Climb That Time Forgot *E8 6c ** 
86The Warriors of Hanuman *
-
E5 6b *** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23