View larger mapGrid Ref SE 163634 (OS Landranger #99)

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These details were last updated on 14/Jan/2014


North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 121 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 274m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

1.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
27 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
26 kph

0.0mm rain
16 °C
18 kph

0.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
17 °C
9 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Yorkshire Dales

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol2,
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2The VergerE1 5c **1
3Pulpit ChimneyVD 2
4MagnificatHVS 5a ***2
6Letterbox ClimbD 2
7MicrocrackHVS 5a *1
8The CreationE2 5c ***6
9On the EdgeE6 6b *** 
10IllusionHS 4b *1
11AftermathE5 5c ***3
12Doomed OasisE6 6b **3
13Wild AbandonE5 6b **1
14Hook RouteE1 5b *3
16Tree CracksS 2
17Buttress RouteVD *6
18FootpatterVS 4c *3
19PendulumE1 5b *1
20Foreign BodiesE2 5c  
21StretcherE1 5b 1
23NippemS 1
24Kandahar GrooveS 1
25Roc's Nest ChimneyHS **6
26DhobiMVS 4b 1
28Hawk SlabS 1
29AggripaE1 5b *1
30DanielVS 4c 1
31TombstoneE2 5c **1
32JezebelHS 4b 2
33By-passS 4a 1
34AutobahnE2 5c *2
35Phillipa's RidgeVS 4c 1
 Climb nameGradex
37North Wall EliminateHVS 5a **10
38MastermindE4 5c ***2
39The ScrykingE5 6a 1
40Comet WallHVS 5a *9
41The Comet's TrailE1 5b **2
42ScissorsD 1
44Savage SentenceE1 5b *1
45HaberdasheryE2 6a 2
46The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **2
47WinklepickerHVS 5a **1
48Shelter ClimbD 2
50Ledge and CrackD 1
52Double TopHVS 5a 3
54Thin Man's DelightS 1
55Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 5b *1
56Caveman's CornerS 1
57North Buttress CrackHS 2
58North Buttress OrdinaryS *1
59North Buttress DirectHVS 5a 3
60Spring FeverVS 4c 1
61NobutjustHVS 5b 1
62ShindigE2 5c **1
65Mop Top Arete Leftf6A 4
66Mop Top Arete Rightf6A 4
68Obvious Toothf5+ 2
71A Little Sparklef7A **8
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Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14

Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10

Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08

Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08

Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06