Climbs 121 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 274m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!

Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 (2012), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999),
Out of print: Yorkshire Gritstone (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The VergerE1 5c **1
3Pulpit ChimneyVD 2
4MagnificatHVS 5a ***2
6Letterbox ClimbD 2
7MicrocrackHVS 5a *1
8The CreationE2 5c ***7
9BarleycornE3 5b  
10On the EdgeE6 6b *** 
11IllusionHS 4b *1
12AftermathE5 5c ***3
13Doomed OasisE6 6b **3
14Wild AbandonE5 6b **1
15Hook RouteE1 5b *3
17Tree CracksS 2
18Buttress RouteVD *7
19FootpatterVS 4c *3
20PendulumE1 5b *1
21Foreign BodiesE2 5c  
22StretcherE1 5b 1
24NippemS 1
25Kandahar GrooveS 1
26Roc's Nest ChimneyHS **6
27DhobiMVS 4b 1
29Hawk SlabS 1
30AggripaE1 5b *1
31DanielVS 4c 1
32TombstoneE2 5c **1
33JezebelHS 4b 2
34By-passS 4a 1
35AutobahnE2 5c *2
36Phillipa's RidgeVS 4c 1
38North Wall EliminateHVS 5a **10
39MastermindE4 5c ***2
40The ScrykingE5 6a 1
41Comet WallHVS 5a *9
42The Comet's TrailE1 5b **2
43ScissorsD 1
45Savage SentenceE1 5b *1
46HaberdasheryE2 6a 2
47The Flintstone PinchE4 6a **2
48The SlotS 4a 1
49WinklepickerHVS 5a **1
50Shelter ClimbD 2
52Ledge and CrackD 1
54Double TopHVS 5a 3
56Thin Man's DelightS 1
57Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 5b *1
58Caveman's CornerS 1
59North Buttress CrackHS 2
60North Buttress OrdinaryS *1
61North Buttress DirectHVS 5a 3
62Spring FeverVS 4c 1
63NobutjustHVS 5b 1
64ShindigE2 5c **1
67Mop Top Pebbles leftf6A 3
68Mop Top Pebbles Rightf6B 2
69Mop Top Arete Leftf6A 10
70Mop Top Arete Rightf6A 12
71Kim Popf7B ** 
72Kim Pop Easyf6C **3
73Applesf6A+ 1
74Apples Rightf6B+ *1
76Obvious Toothf5+ 2
78Bilberry Bypassf6C *1
80A Little Sparklef7A **14
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Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses. I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean. I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path. I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.
heidavey - 12/May/08
Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06