Climbs 100
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

Jason Pickles leads the classic Fork Lightening Crack, E2 5c, Heptonstall Quarry. © Alastair Lee

Crag features

I have climbed a low traverse of the whole quarry from right to left called Technical Dancer Font 7A+ V7. A video of it is on Youtube under Heptonstall bouldering. John Wilson.

Approach notes

You can also get to the rocks from walking through the woods from bank foot - emerge from behind the houses at the bottom of the hill. Just follow the windy path up and it runs below the right hand outcrop on the main quarry.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Out of print:
A lovely spot on a summer's evening.
Becks87 - 28/Jun/15
An good spot with enjoyable climbs, its regularly climbed unlike many of the smaller quarrys in the area making the rock itself relatively clean.
agolay - 20/Sep/10
The directions in the Yorkshire Grit guide are a bit confusing - don't take the narrow 'walled path' next to the entrance to the social club car park, as this adds an extra 15 mins walkin! The crag is actually only a few mins from the car park - take the wider 'walled lane' opposite the car park, then turn left through the new housing estate to bring you to stone steps leading down to the crag.
Nick Smith - UKC - 04/Jun/06
hi,Its a worthwhile crag with good bouldering.
Geraldine Taylor - 07/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
VD *22
2Lumber VertebraeVS 4c **45
3Short Back and Sides
E2 5c *3
4Curving CrackVS 4c *237
5Main Line
VS 128
6Vertical SpeedE7 6c *3
7Hard LineE5 6b *11
8Thin Red LineE1 5b ***202
9DemeraraE4 6a *37
10Brown SugarE2 5c *50
11Pulpit RouteHVS 5a **68
12The Blue Bus
E6 6b * 
13A Step in the Light GreenE6 6b **17
14Orange CrushE6 6b *5
15CreamE4 6a *5
16Sunstroke Slab
HS 4b *40
17TrepidationVS 4c *81
18Fairy Steps DirectVS 4c **174
19Fairy StepsHS 4b ***268
20Forked Lightning CrackE2 5c ***85
21Bull's CrackHVS 5a ***268
22SenilityHVS 5b *197
E2 5b **9
24Triplex Direct
E1 5b *25
25Out on a Limb
E3 5c **3
E2 5c *1
27The Left Arete
HS 4b *42
28Dog with Two tails
HVS 5a *26
29Pocket Wall
VS 4b *76
30The Knight BusE4 5c **1
31InterludeHS 4a 21
32The Mitre
S 51
33Mille Feuille
MVS 4c 69
34The Chimney
VD 48
MVS 4b 15
S 15
37Grindleys GruntHVS 5b 37
38Sentinel Crack
HVD 48
39sentinel wallHVS 37
D 38
41Nutian Jamb
HVD 17
42Afro With a Chin Strap
HVS 5c 8
43Miss Rags-Tantric Mistress Of Mazland
E4 6b 7
HS 18
45The Corner
HVD 37
46anti cycloneE5 6b *1
47Badge Climb
VD 40
48Main Buttress
HD 33
S 29
50Descent Chimney
M 25
51Coat of Arms Chimney
D 19
E4 6a **3
53WindsongVS 4c 4
54HesperusS 3
VS 4c 4
56Main Buttress AreteHVD 3
57Boo Boo's RoofE2 6b *2
VS *6
59Technical Dancerf7A+ **4
60Stranger In The Woods
HVS 5a *9
61Pulpit Route Direct
E1 5c 3
62ScarFacef7A 3
63Monkey PuzzleHVS 5a 10
64FraternityS 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ozi