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These details were last updated on 18/Dec/2013

Sand Point

Somerset, ENGLAND

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
15 kph

7.6mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Esoteric Bouldering

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)  
2Peace ProtestE4 5c  
3Never to Go BackHVS 5a  
4Pedestal OverhangE3 6a  
5Lip SlipE1 5b  
6Sub-marine StubbleE4 6b  
 MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)  
8Amandla WetuD 3
9Happy as a SandboyM 7
10MadibaHS 4b 7
11NelsonD 6
12RolihlahlaD 5
13Freedom FighterD 4
14Long Walk to FreedomD 4
15TerroristVD 5
16Diff CliffD 3
17Kate Sea MossD 3
18Spoons in the MousseS 4
19Heart of GoldHS 4b 4
20Hard to HoldD 2
21Fork in the RoadD 6
22HubrisS 2
23To the Man in Room 34...HS 4a 8
24A Nightmare Before ChristmasHS 4b 7
25Grey SkyS 4a 11
26SandwetoVS 4b 6
27Sandweto (right hand)VS 4c 1
28Poor Man's PembrokeVD 6
29Al IbertoM 4
30Mysterious BarricadesD 2
31A Wayward CloudHVS 5b 4
32Tempting or not temptingHVS 5b 2
33Sand Point DoggersM 2
34Catch me if you canS 4a 2
 MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING)  
36Not Another Lip Traverse!f6B+ ** 
37Frostbitef7A *1
38Zero Degreesf7C+ * 
39The Prowf7C ***5
40The Barrelf7C *1
 SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)  
42UnderdogsE3 6a  
43MementoE1 5c  
44SouvenirVS 4c *5
45Drop a ClangerE2 5b  
46The Soup Dragon WarblesE3 5c  
47Broad ReachVS 4b  
48RugratE4 6a 1
49SockthingE1 5a  
 Climb nameGradex
50Seven BridgesE1 5a  
51Weston ApproachesHVS 5b 1
52JutlandE2 6a 1
53Buoy RacerE1 5b  
54Jocular BanterE2 6a  
55Gay ReparteeE2 6a  
56Mass DebateE2 5c  
57Leaning DifficultiesE2 5c  
58Severn BoreE3 5c  
59Second Severn CrossingE2 5c  
60Psycho 2E4 6c * 
61Sands of TimeE3 6a  
62Too Big to SwallowE3 6a  
63Then Chew on ThisE4 6a  
64The Incalculable CleftE4 6b  
65I've Cleaned ThatE2 6a  
66S'all YoursE2 5c  
67Flute ElopeS *3
68Pipe MusicS *5
69SuggestiveE1 5c  
70Ain't No SunshineHS 4b  
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)  
72ElgarVS 5a *5
73HelgaS 4c 4
74Sterling Sea MossHVS 5c 1
75PompHVS 5b 1
76CircumstanceE3 6a **1
77Where Coral LiesE6 6a 1
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO THE POINT)  
79RaspE1 5b 1
80A TractionE5 6b 1
81StompE1 5c 1
82It's OverE4 5c 1
83Trench TownE1 6a  
84Motorboat to Mars: The Re-releaseXS 6a *** 
 THE POINT  
86The Belayer Wore WelliesHS 4c 1
87Quick TugHS 4b 1
88SkyfallE1 5b *2
89Onsighting OliviaE1 5b *2
90Done in the SixtiesVD 1
91TwiggyS 4a 1
92TobrukVD 3
93TommyHS 4a 1
94TokamakVS 4c 2
95TotoD 2
96TouroidS 1
97TourtoyzM 2
98Barnacle gripM 1
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Access notes
Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13