Climbs 151
Rocktype Limestone

Faces N

The Prow © sim.monkey

Crag features

A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Approach notes

Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2Tiananmen Square MassacreVS 4b
3Peace Protest
E4 5c
4Never to Go Back
HVS 5a
5Pedestal Overhang
E3 6a
6Lip Slip
E1 5b
8Traverse of the Sea Slatersf4
9Amandla WetuD
10Happy as a SandboyM
12Another Pointless Ramble?M
13My Twisted WorldHS 4b
14Sub-marine StubbleE4 6b
15Moronic Bottle ThrowerVS 4c
16MadibaHS 4b
19Freedom FighterD
20Long Walk to FreedomD
22Diff CliffD
23Kate Sea MossD
24Spoons in the MousseS
25Heart of GoldHS 4b
26Hard to HoldD
27Fork in the RoadD
29To the Man in Room 34...HS 4c
30A Nightmare Before ChristmasHS 4b
31Grey SkyS 4a
32SandwetoVS 4b
33Sandweto (right hand)VS 4c
34Poor Man's PembrokeVD
35Al IbertoM
36Mysterious BarricadesD
37A Wayward CloudHVS 5b
38Tempting or not temptingHVS 5b
39Ice Cream Van SlamVS 5a
40Sand Point DoggersM
41Catch me if you canS 4a
42Zennone 4c
44Not Another Lip Traverse!f6B+ **
45Frostbitef7A *
46Zero Degreesf7C+ *
47The Prowf7C ***
48The Barrelf7C *
E3 6a
E1 5c
VS 4c *
53Drop a Clanger
E2 5b
54The Soup Dragon Warbles
E3 5c
55Broad Reach
VS 4b
E4 6a
E1 5a
58Seven Bridges
E1 5a
59Weston Approaches
HVS 5b
E2 6a
61Buoy Racer
E1 5b
62Jocular Banter
E2 6a
63Gay Repartee
E2 6a
64Mass Debate
E2 5c
65Leaning Difficulties
E2 5c
66Severn Bore
E3 5c
67Second Severn Crossing
E2 5c
68Psycho 2
E4 6c *
69Sands of Time
E3 6a
70Too Big to Swallow
E3 6a
71Then Chew on This
E4 6a
72The Incalculable Cleft
E4 6b
73I've Cleaned That
E2 6a
74S'all Yours
E2 5c
75Flute Elope
S *
76Pipe Music
S *
E1 5c
78Ain't No Sunshine
HS 4b
VS 5a *
S 4c
82Sterling Sea Moss
HVS 5c
HVS 5b
E3 6a **
85Where Coral Lies
E6 6a
87Motorboat to Mars: The Re-releaseXS 6a ***
E1 5b
89A Traction
E5 6b
E1 5c
91It's OverE4 5c
92Trench TownE1 6a
 Five Ribs
94Gerstmann Rib SyndromeHS 4b
95Narrow RibS 4a
96Rib SwapVS 4c
97Perfect TimingVS 5a
98Lord of the FriesVD
99Coq au VanD
100Van DeemanS 4a
102Saint CrispianM
103Bob's your uncleVD
104Ann Ban CroftVD
105Misses RobinsonD
106This One TimeVD
107My Tea CleftVD
108Stifler's MomVD
109Band CampHVD
110Stifler's GranVD
111Camp FreddyVD
113Dogger BankD
114Mein HundD
 Apex Zawn
116The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the CarparkHS 4b
117Limpet WallHS 4b
118Sea Moss GardenHS 4b
119Moss TankS 4a
121The Belayer Wore Wellies
HS 4c
122Quick Tug
HS 4b
123Slow TugHS 4c
124Tug LessVD
125Obi WanM
126Gin GanS 4a
E1 5b *
128Onsighting Olivia
E1 5b *
129Occupy Sand PointHS 4b
130Pillar LarvaD
131Micro RoofsHS 4b
132Not another boulder problemHS 4b
133Janitor of LunacyD
134Central EliminateHVD
135Conceived in the Sixties
136Qatar PillarD
137The NeedleM
138His Burden Is LightVD
139The ShrimpD
S 4a
142TommyHS 4a
143Mossy CrackHS 4b
144Solitary PocketS
145Immediate ExposureHS 4b
146TokolosheHS 4b
147TokamakVS 4c
148Tok HS
153Points End Rock ClimbHS 4b
154Points End EliminateVS 4c
155Points End SlabHS 4b
156Points End CrackM
157Scurvy LinearD
158Pre-Human IdeasS 4a
159Points End BoulderVS 4c
160Barnacle gripM
 Bouldering (other than Middle Hope)
162Tuff Outcrop Arete Sit Startf6C *

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