Sand Point

Climbs 151 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Access notes
Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Esoteric Bouldering

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)  
2Tiananmen Square MassacreVS 4b 2
3Peace ProtestE4 5c  
4Never to Go BackHVS 5a  
5Pedestal OverhangE3 6a  
6Lip SlipE1 5b  
 MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)  
8Traverse of the Sea Slatersf4 5
9Amandla WetuD 7
10Happy as a SandboyM 10
11ClodhopperVD 3
12Another Pointless Ramble?M 3
13My Twisted WorldHS 4b 5
14Sub-marine StubbleE4 6b  
15Moronic Bottle ThrowerVS 4c 3
16MadibaHS 4b 9
17NelsonD 6
18RolihlahlaD 5
19Freedom FighterD 6
20Long Walk to FreedomD 4
21TerroristVD 8
22Diff CliffD 6
23Kate Sea MossD 7
24Spoons in the MousseS 15
25Heart of GoldHS 4b 6
26Hard to HoldD 7
27Fork in the RoadD 13
28HubrisS 4
29To the Man in Room 34...HS 4c 13
30A Nightmare Before ChristmasHS 4b 13
31Grey SkyS 4a 15
32SandwetoVS 4b 11
33Sandweto (right hand)VS 4c 5
34Poor Man's PembrokeVD 14
35Al IbertoM 9
36Mysterious BarricadesD 4
37A Wayward CloudHVS 5b 10
38Tempting or not temptingHVS 5b 4
39Ice Cream Van SlamVS 5a 2
40Sand Point DoggersM 2
41Catch me if you canS 4a 3
42Zennone 4c 1
 MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING)  
44Not Another Lip Traverse!f6B+ **3
45Frostbitef7A *1
46Zero Degreesf7C+ * 
47The Prowf7C ***10
48The Barrelf7C *2
 SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)  
50UnderdogsE3 6a  
51MementoE1 5c  
52SouvenirVS 4c *4
53Drop a ClangerE2 5b  
54The Soup Dragon WarblesE3 5c  
55Broad ReachVS 4b  
56RugratE4 6a 1
57SockthingE1 5a  
58Seven BridgesE1 5a  
59Weston ApproachesHVS 5b 1
60JutlandE2 6a 1
61Buoy RacerE1 5b  
62Jocular BanterE2 6a  
63Gay ReparteeE2 6a  
64Mass DebateE2 5c  
65Leaning DifficultiesE2 5c  
66Severn BoreE3 5c  
67Second Severn CrossingE2 5c  
68Psycho 2E4 6c * 
69Sands of TimeE3 6a  
70Too Big to SwallowE3 6a  
71Then Chew on ThisE4 6a  
72The Incalculable CleftE4 6b  
73I've Cleaned ThatE2 6a  
74S'all YoursE2 5c  
75Flute ElopeS *2
76Pipe MusicS *4
77SuggestiveE1 5c  
78Ain't No SunshineHS 4b  
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)  
80ElgarVS 5a *7
81HelgaS 4c 4
82Sterling Sea MossHVS 5c 2
83PompHVS 5b 1
84CircumstanceE3 6a **1
85Where Coral LiesE6 6a 1
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS)  
87Motorboat to Mars: The Re-releaseXS 6a *** 
88RaspE1 5b 1
89A TractionE5 6b 1
90StompE1 5c 1
91It's OverE4 5c 1
92Trench TownE1 6a  
 FIVE RIBS  
94Gerstmann Rib SyndromeHS 4b 2
95Narrow RibS 4a 2
96Rib SwapVS 4c 2
97Perfect TimingVS 5a 2
98Lord of the FriesVD 1
99Coq au VanD 1
100Van DeemanS 4a 2
 SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST  
102Saint CrispianM 2
103Bob's your uncleVD 2
104Ann Ban CroftVD 1
105Misses RobinsonD 2
106This One TimeVD 5
107My Tea CleftVD 5
108Stifler's MomVD 5
109Band CampHVD 2
110Stifler's GranVD 3
111Camp FreddyVD 3
112DoggerelD 1
113Dogger BankD 1
114Mein HundD 2
 APEX ZAWN  
116The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the CarparkHS 4b 5
117Limpet WallHS 4b 2
118Sea Moss GardenHS 4b 4
119Moss TankS 4a 3
 THE POINT  
121The Belayer Wore WelliesHS 4c 3
122Quick TugHS 4b 3
123Slow TugHS 4c 2
124Tug LessVD 2
125Obi WanM 2
126Gin GanS 4a 2
127SkyfallE1 5b *4
128Onsighting OliviaE1 5b *4
129Occupy Sand PointHS 4b 2
130Pillar LarvaD 2
131Micro RoofsHS 4b 2
132Not another boulder problemHS 4b 1
133Janitor of LunacyD 2
134Central EliminateHVD 2
135Conceived in the SixtiesVD 3
136Qatar PillarD 2
137The NeedleM 2
138His Burden Is LightVD 2
139The ShrimpD 2
140TwiggyS 4a 4
141TobrukVD 5
142TommyHS 4a 3
143Mossy CrackHS 4b 2
144Solitary PocketS 3
145Immediate ExposureHS 4b 1
146TokolosheHS 4b 4
147TokamakVS 4c 5
148Tok HS 2
149TotoD 3
150TouroidS 3
151TourbillonD 4
152TourtoyzM 3
153Points End Rock ClimbHS 4b 2
154Points End EliminateVS 4c 2
155Points End SlabHS 4b 1
156Points End CrackM 2
157Scurvy LinearD 2
158Pre-Human IdeasS 4a 2
159Points End BoulderVS 4c 1
160Barnacle gripM 3
 BOULDERING (OTHER THAN MIDDLE HOPE)  
162Tuff Outcrop Arete Sit StartV5 6b *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13