Sand Point

Climbs 149 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Access notes
Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Esoteric Bouldering

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF) 
2Tiananmen Square MassacreVS 4b
3Peace ProtestE4 5c
4Never to Go BackHVS 5a
5Pedestal OverhangE3 6a
6Lip SlipE1 5b
 MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS) 
8Traverse of the Sea Slatersf4
9Amandla WetuD
10Happy as a SandboyM
11ClodhopperVD
12Another Pointless Ramble?M
13My Twisted WorldHS 4b
14Sub-marine StubbleE4 6b
15Moronic Bottle ThrowerVS 4c
16MadibaHS 4b
17NelsonD
18RolihlahlaD
19Freedom FighterD
20Long Walk to FreedomD
21TerroristVD
22Diff CliffD
23Kate Sea MossD
24Spoons in the MousseS
25Heart of GoldHS 4b
26Hard to HoldD
27Fork in the RoadD
28HubrisS
29To the Man in Room 34...HS 4c
30A Nightmare Before ChristmasHS 4b
31Grey SkyS 4a
32SandwetoVS 4b
33Sandweto (right hand)VS 4c
34Poor Man's PembrokeVD
35Al IbertoM
36Mysterious BarricadesD
37A Wayward CloudHVS 5b
38Tempting or not temptingHVS 5b
39Sand Point DoggersM
40Catch me if you canS 4a
41Zennone 4c
 MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING) 
43Not Another Lip Traverse!f6B+ **
44Frostbitef7A *
45Zero Degreesf7C+ *
46The Prowf7C ***
47The Barrelf7C *
 SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST) 
49UnderdogsE3 6a
50MementoE1 5c
51SouvenirVS 4c *
52Drop a ClangerE2 5b
53The Soup Dragon WarblesE3 5c
54Broad ReachVS 4b
55RugratE4 6a
56SockthingE1 5a
57Seven BridgesE1 5a
58Weston ApproachesHVS 5b
59JutlandE2 6a
60Buoy RacerE1 5b
61Jocular BanterE2 6a
62Gay ReparteeE2 6a
63Mass DebateE2 5c
64Leaning DifficultiesE2 5c
65Severn BoreE3 5c
66Second Severn CrossingE2 5c
67Psycho 2E4 6c *
68Sands of TimeE3 6a
69Too Big to SwallowE3 6a
70Then Chew on ThisE4 6a
71The Incalculable CleftE4 6b
72I've Cleaned ThatE2 6a
73S'all YoursE2 5c
74Flute ElopeS *
75Pipe MusicS *
76SuggestiveE1 5c
77Ain't No SunshineHS 4b
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL) 
79ElgarVS 5a *
80HelgaS 4c
81Sterling Sea MossHVS 5c
82PompHVS 5b
83CircumstanceE3 6a **
84Where Coral LiesE6 6a
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS) 
86Motorboat to Mars: The Re-releaseXS 6a ***
87RaspE1 5b
88A TractionE5 6b
89StompE1 5c
90It's OverE4 5c
91Trench TownE1 6a
 FIVE RIBS 
93Gerstmann Rib SyndromeHS 4b
94Narrow RibS 4a
95Rib SwapVS 4c
96Perfect TimingVS 5a
97Lord of the FriesVD
98Coq au VanD
99Van DeemanS 4a
 SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST 
101Saint CrispianM
102Bob's your uncleVD
103Ann Ban CroftVD
104Misses RobinsonD
105This One TimeVD
106My Tea CleftVD
107Stifler's MomVD
108Band CampHVD
109Stifler's GranVD
110Camp FreddyVD
111DoggerelD
112Dogger BankD
113Mein HundD
 APEX ZAWN 
115The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the CarparkHS 4b
116Limpet WallHS 4b
117Sea Moss GardenHS 4b
118Moss TankS 4a
 THE POINT 
120The Belayer Wore WelliesHS 4c
121Quick TugHS 4b
122Slow TugHS 4c
123Tug LessVD
124Obi WanM
125Gin GanS 4a
126SkyfallE1 5b *
127Onsighting OliviaE1 5b *
128Occupy Sand PointHS 4b
129Pillar LarvaD
130Micro RoofsHS 4b
131Not another boulder problemHS 4b
132Janitor of LunacyD
133Central EliminateHVD
134Conceived in the SixtiesVD
135Qatar PillarD
136The NeedleM
137His Burden Is LightVD
138The ShrimpD
139TwiggyS 4a
140TobrukVD
141TommyHS 4a
142Mossy CrackHS 4b
143Solitary PocketS
144Immediate ExposureHS 4b
145TokolosheHS 4b
146TokamakVS 4c
147Tok HS
148TotoD
149TouroidS
150TourbillonD
151TourtoyzM
152Points End Rock ClimbHS 4b
153Points End EliminateVS 4c
154Points End SlabHS 4b
155Points End CrackM
156Scurvy LinearD
157Pre-Human IdeasS 4a
158Points End BoulderVS 4c
159Barnacle gripM
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Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13