Sand Point

Climbs 149 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
A series of short limestone walls offering routes of surprisingly good quality. The roof climbs are especially worthwhile for those climbing in the E grades, although the exits from many of the routes on Swallow Cliff are vegetated and the belay stakes may be hidden. Reconnaissance of the cliff top is advisable before an ascent.

For those operating at more modest grades The Point and the west buttress at Middle Hope are of interest, with generally adequate belays in the rock outcrops at the top of routes. In addition, the old stakes are still in place above the climbs around Elgar on Swallow Cliff, and a quick rummage through vegetation should locate them.

If climbing at The Point then sunny, windy weather is adviseable in order to dry out the mud. The West Buttress at Middlehope is more forgiving of marginal conditions and has enough friction on many routes to be climbed when wet.

Access notes
Owned by The National Trust. Climbers are asked to comply with the Trust's standard code of conduct.

Situated on a north-facing coast 3 miles north of Weston-Super-Mare. Follow Satnav directions for BS22 9UD, then continue on a short distance to the end of the road. A car park is situated on the right which is entered through a gate, with another gate visible immediately infront of you as you enter. The Middle Hope area is accessed through this second gate. Walk through the gate and bear towards the hedge on your left where you'll soon see a path through that hedge heading north up the slope. This crosses an access track, and then continues as steps to a smaller gate and open grassland. Turn right at the gate, pass an old stone wall, then after a few hundred metres you'll see a shingle bay over to the left. The boulder problem "The Prow" is located at the far (eastern) end of this bay, with the West Buttress of Middle Hope just beyond, and the Main Cliff beyond that again.

For the Swallow Cliff to The Point sector, leave the car park through the gate you entered, then take the steps to the right up the hill to the top. Turn left and head west out to near the end of the peninsula. The base of the cliff for The Point climbs can be accessed here by an easy scramble down at various points on the right (north). By walking back along the base of the cliff to the east Swallow Cliff can be reached. The beach at the eastern end of Swallow Cliff provides an alternative exit and access point.

The climbs can be accessed for around 3 hours either side of low water, although this can vary significantly between spring and neap tides. On spring tides the water advances at an astonishing rate, so leave plenty of time to escape.

Guidebooks
Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Esoteric Bouldering

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MIDDLE HOPE (MAIN CLIFF)  
2Tiananmen Square MassacreVS 4b 2
3Peace ProtestE4 5c  
4Never to Go BackHVS 5a  
5Pedestal OverhangE3 6a  
6Lip SlipE1 5b  
 MIDDLE HOPE (WEST BUTTRESS)  
8Traverse of the Sea Slatersf4 5
9Amandla WetuD 7
10Happy as a SandboyM 10
11ClodhopperVD 3
12Another Pointless Ramble?M 3
13My Twisted WorldHS 4b 5
14Sub-marine StubbleE4 6b  
15Moronic Bottle ThrowerVS 4c 3
16MadibaHS 4b 9
17NelsonD 6
18RolihlahlaD 5
19Freedom FighterD 6
20Long Walk to FreedomD 4
21TerroristVD 7
22Diff CliffD 6
23Kate Sea MossD 7
24Spoons in the MousseS 12
25Heart of GoldHS 4b 6
26Hard to HoldD 6
27Fork in the RoadD 11
28HubrisS 4
29To the Man in Room 34...HS 4c 12
30A Nightmare Before ChristmasHS 4b 12
31Grey SkyS 4a 13
32SandwetoVS 4b 11
33Sandweto (right hand)VS 4c 3
34Poor Man's PembrokeVD 14
35Al IbertoM 9
36Mysterious BarricadesD 4
37A Wayward CloudHVS 5b 10
38Tempting or not temptingHVS 5b 3
39Sand Point DoggersM 2
40Catch me if you canS 4a 3
41Zennone 4c 1
 MIDDLE HOPE (BOULDERING)  
43Not Another Lip Traverse!f6B+ ** 
44Frostbitef7A *1
45Zero Degreesf7C+ * 
46The Prowf7C ***7
47The Barrelf7C *1
 SWALLOW CLIFF (EAST)  
49UnderdogsE3 6a  
50MementoE1 5c  
51SouvenirVS 4c *4
52Drop a ClangerE2 5b  
53The Soup Dragon WarblesE3 5c  
54Broad ReachVS 4b  
55RugratE4 6a 1
56SockthingE1 5a  
57Seven BridgesE1 5a  
58Weston ApproachesHVS 5b 1
59JutlandE2 6a 1
60Buoy RacerE1 5b  
61Jocular BanterE2 6a  
62Gay ReparteeE2 6a  
63Mass DebateE2 5c  
64Leaning DifficultiesE2 5c  
65Severn BoreE3 5c  
66Second Severn CrossingE2 5c  
67Psycho 2E4 6c * 
68Sands of TimeE3 6a  
69Too Big to SwallowE3 6a  
70Then Chew on ThisE4 6a  
71The Incalculable CleftE4 6b  
72I've Cleaned ThatE2 6a  
73S'all YoursE2 5c  
74Flute ElopeS *2
75Pipe MusicS *4
76SuggestiveE1 5c  
77Ain't No SunshineHS 4b  
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY EAST WALL)  
79ElgarVS 5a *7
80HelgaS 4c 4
81Sterling Sea MossHVS 5c 2
82PompHVS 5b 1
83CircumstanceE3 6a **1
84Where Coral LiesE6 6a 1
 SWALLOW CLIFF (PEBBLE GULLY WEST WALL ONWARDS TO FIVE RIBS)  
86Motorboat to Mars: The Re-releaseXS 6a *** 
87RaspE1 5b 1
88A TractionE5 6b 1
89StompE1 5c 1
90It's OverE4 5c 1
91Trench TownE1 6a  
 FIVE RIBS  
93Gerstmann Rib SyndromeHS 4b 2
94Narrow RibS 4a 2
95Rib SwapVS 4c 2
96Perfect TimingVS 5a 2
97Lord of the FriesVD 1
98Coq au VanD 1
99Van DeemanS 4a 2
 SWALLOW CLIFF, WEST  
101Saint CrispianM 1
102Bob's your uncleVD 2
103Ann Ban CroftVD 1
104Misses RobinsonD 2
105This One TimeVD 4
106My Tea CleftVD 4
107Stifler's MomVD 4
108Band CampHVD 1
109Stifler's GranVD 2
110Camp FreddyVD 1
111DoggerelD 1
112Dogger BankD 1
113Mein HundD 2
 APEX ZAWN  
115The Mysterious Case of the Dogger in the CarparkHS 4b 4
116Limpet WallHS 4b 2
117Sea Moss GardenHS 4b 4
118Moss TankS 4a 2
 THE POINT  
120The Belayer Wore WelliesHS 4c 3
121Quick TugHS 4b 3
122Slow TugHS 4c 2
123Tug LessVD 2
124Obi WanM 2
125Gin GanS 4a 2
126SkyfallE1 5b *4
127Onsighting OliviaE1 5b *4
128Occupy Sand PointHS 4b 2
129Pillar LarvaD 2
130Micro RoofsHS 4b 2
131Not another boulder problemHS 4b 1
132Janitor of LunacyD 2
133Central EliminateHVD 2
134Conceived in the SixtiesVD 3
135Qatar PillarD 2
136The NeedleM 2
137His Burden Is LightVD 2
138The ShrimpD 2
139TwiggyS 4a 4
140TobrukVD 5
141TommyHS 4a 3
142Mossy CrackHS 4b 2
143Solitary PocketS 3
144Immediate ExposureHS 4b 1
145TokolosheHS 4b 4
146TokamakVS 4c 5
147Tok HS 2
148TotoD 3
149TouroidS 3
150TourbillonD 4
151TourtoyzM 3
152Points End Rock ClimbHS 4b 2
153Points End EliminateVS 4c 2
154Points End SlabHS 4b 1
155Points End CrackM 2
156Scurvy LinearD 2
157Pre-Human IdeasS 4a 2
158Points End BoulderVS 4c 1
159Barnacle gripM 3
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went down to Swallow Cliff on the 14th July. Belay stakes and possible topouts completely buried in vegation! Also there's a pair of Red Kites nesting close to the first cave.
Steve nevers - 17/Jul/13
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Jun/2014
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