High Rocks

Climbs 312 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 90m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features

High Rocks is a designated SSSI, National Monument and owned by The High Rocks (opposite).

All climbers should visit the lower bar BEFORE entering the rocks.

Climbers should pay the £10 entrance fee (2010) and obtain a ticket/receipt. Season ticket holders (£45, 2010) should sign the book. Please DO NOT enter the grounds without a ticket.

The highest of the southern sandstone crags - 12m. Plenty of classic climbs, including the oft-tried Infidel (6a). Lots to keep everyone, including the wandering grockles, amused.

Approach notes

From Tunbridge Wells, take the A264 for East Grinstead; after 2km (1.2mi) on Rusthall Common turn L at signpost to The Beacon and High Rocks: follow down the narrow hill to a 'Y' junction (rocks visible opposite) where a right turn takes you over a railway bridge and to the High Rocks. The crag entrance is on the left and car park a bit further on the left. Please pay (or sign in for season ticket holders) in the lower bar BEFORE entering the grounds.

Access notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second static rope (8 - 10m)to extend top belays and preferably a carpet sample to clean your feet before you climb.

 

By ignoring the access conditions (which are very simple and include having a valid ticket when you enter the grounds) you are jeopardising access to this crag. It is not strictly necessary to phone in advance at present but please call in at the lower bar and pay for entry or sign in if you have a season ticket. Failure to heed this advice will likely lead to the reintroduction of the 'booking system' or the eventual closure of the crag. If you don't want to pay, please do not risk losing access by entering illegally - stay away... The BMC and local climbers have invested considerable efforts (and money) in maintaining access to High Rocks.


Phone number is 01892 515532 - ask for the manager. Detailed contact information is available at http://www.highrocks.co.uk


See also http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2624


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG  
2Orion Cracknone 4c **14
3The First Cracknone 6b ***2
4Missing Linknone 6b ** 
5Anaconda Chimneynone 4a **7
6Anaconda Cornernone 5b **2
7Fungal Smearnone 6b * 
8Bone Machinenone 6b  
9Addernone 6a **5
10Boa Constrictor Chimneynone 4b **9
11The Second Generationnone 6b ***3
12Cobra Chimneynone 4a 3
13Renascencenone 6b ***2
14Resurrectionf7C 1
15Pammyf7A ** 
16Steps Cracknone 5b ***20
17Chimaeranone 7a **1
18Cornerstonef7B+ **1
19Moving Staircasenone 6b ***6
20Judynone 6b **1
21Telegram Samnone 6b * 
22Rag Tradenone 6b *1
23Eft Chimneynone 3a 2
24Chockstone Chimneynone 2b 5
25Gethsemanef7A 1
26Vandalf7B **1
27Salad Daysnone 6b **5
28Pet Cemeteryf7B 1
29Leglocknone 6b *3
30Too Tall for Timnone 6a *1
31Cut Steps Cracknone 6a **3
32Too Hard for Davenone 6b *1
33Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 1none 5a *3
34Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 2none 5a *2
35Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 3none 4c  
36The Continuing Adventures of Porgf7B+ 1
37Stranglernone 5a 3
38Deadwood Chimneynone 2b 3
39Bell Rock Passagenone 4a 1
40Spider's Chimneynone 3b **1
41Insinuation Cracknone 2b 2
42Yoda Assisf7C 1
43Wye Chimneynone 4a 3
44Slab Chimneynone 2b 2
45One of Our Chimneys is Missingnone 2b *2
46Smooth Chimneynone 4a **3
47The Chutenone 5a 3
48Krankenkopf Cracknone 5b **11
49Spankedf7A ***2
50The Path Seldom Takenf7B 1
51Krakennone 6b *4
52The Dragonnone 6a **1
53Robin's Routenone 6a *6
54So What?none 6b * 
55Dysenterynone 5c *1
56The Prangnone 6a **2
57Magneticf7A **16
58Lobsternone 6a *6
59Infidelnone 6a ***25
60Henry the Ninthnone 5b **44
61Warning Rock Buttressnone 3b 1
62Jawsnone 5c **6
63Orcanone 5c *4
64balcony directnone 4b ***9
65Boysen's Cracknone 6a **8
66Conchitanone 6a *5
67Marquitanone 5c *15
68Lucitanone 5c *22
69Cool Bananasnone 6c **1
70Effienone 5b **28
71Cheetahnone 6b *1
72Coronation Cracknone 5c ***30
73Hale Boppf7C 7a *** 
74Bad Bloodnone 6c 1
75Krait Aretenone 6b ***15
76Shelter Aretenone 5c *8
77Shelter Chimneynone 2b *7
78Shelter Passagenone 4b 3
79Shelter Slabsnone 5b 3
80The Oligarchynone 6a 1
81advertisment wall directnone 5c ***53
82Advertisement Wallnone 5b **74
83Engagement Wallnone 6a **31
84Dyno-Sorenone 6b **7
85Quirkusnone 4c 6
86Dirty Dicknone 4b 27
87Porgs Progressf7B **1
88Crypt Cracknone 4a 7
89Death Capnone 6b * 
90Mervin Directnone 6b * 
91Crack and Wall Frontnone 5c **5
92Crack And Wallnone 4b 5
93Yoda (Stand)f7A+ * 
94Hut transverse aretenone 4c *5
95Educating Airlienone 6b **1
96Kinda Lingersnone 6c ***2
97Kinda Lingers Sit Startf7A+ **3
98Kinda Lingers Sit Down Startf7C ***2
99Unforgettablenone 6c **1
100Boonoonoonoosnone 6b **7
101Firebirdnone 6a *5
102Mulligan's Wallnone 5c **7
103Bludgeonnone 5c * 
104Celebrationnone 5c **29
105Brushwood Chimneynone 2b 1
106Chez's Dynof7A **8
107Hut Transverse Passage - Rufrock Routenone 3a *4
108Hut Transverse Passage - Central Routenone 3b 2
109Tilley Lamp Cracknone 6a **12
110Lord Traversef6B 6a **12
111Nemesisnone 6b ***19
112Nemesis Infernonone 6c 1
113A Touch Too Muchnone 6b **5
114Viper Cracknone 5b 6
115Shatterednone 6b *2
116Easy Cracknone 2a *9
117Bald Finishnone 5a *3
 HUT BOULDER  
119Crack Routenone 4c **46
120Pinchgripnone 5c *12
121Pussyfootnone 5b **23
122Sweaty Pussynone 5c+ ***5
123Swing Facenone 5b *19
124Birthday Aretenone 5b **24
125Birthday Wall (Sequins of Cosmic Turbulence)none 5c *5
126Sequins of Cosmic Turbulencenone 5c 11
127Roof Routenone 5a *18
128Rockneynone 5c 5
129Cough Dropnone 5b *2
130Long Stretchnone 5c *9
131Roofusnone 6b *2
132Idnone 6a *2
133Bludnok Wallnone 5c *8
134Rhino's Eyebrownone 5a 4
135Solonone 5a 1
136Wall right of Solonone 5c 1
137Silly Cornernone 3a 1
138Amelia's Little Problemnone 4c 1
139Awkward Cornernone 5b 1
140Orrer Cracknone 5c *4
141Navy Waynone 5c *9
142Bow Spiritnone 6a 1
143Crosstown Trafficf7C 1
144Bum Dragonf7C+ 1
145Odin's Wallnone 5c **19
146Something Cracknone 6a 2
147Degeneratenone 5a *19
148TestimonyV1 5a **9
149DeliriumV2 5c *5
150Holly SlabV0- 4a 8
151Honeycombnone 6b **16
152Honeycomb Direct Startnone 6b *1
153Craig-y-blanconone 6a *21
154Dagger Cracknone 6a *2
155Moss Side Storyf6A+ 6a *1
156Carbon Fibref6C 6b ***2
157Final Destinationf7C ***1
 THE ISOLATED BOULDER  
159Ordinary Routenone 4a *31
160The Mojof7B ***3
161Mojo Traverse Extensionf7C+ 1
162Sloper problem (right of mojo)f7A **5
163The Bluesf6C **2
164Graveyard Groovenone 5c *2
165Tool Wallnone 6a ***6
166Forknone 5c **21
167Knifenone 5c ***22
168Dinner Platenone 5c **22
169Simian Progressnone 5a ***49
170The Fonzf7A 2
171Happy Daysf7A **4
172Happy Days Variationf6C 5
1736B on Happy Days boulder, right of treef6B 1
174Breakfastnone 5c 1
175Simian Facenone 5b *34
176Monkey Nutnone 5b **21
177The Sphinxnone 6a *13
178Simian Face Direct Startnone 5c 2
179Simian Mistakenone 5c **30
180Simian Mistake Direct Startf6C 6b 3
181Sputniknone 6a *11
182North Wallnone 5a **20
183The Helixnone 5a **3
 SLAB BOULDER  
185Outside Edge Routenone 3b *15
186Jabberwockyf6A 6a 5
187Holly Routenone 2b *11
188Miss Embassynone 5c 9
189JPSnone 6a **25
190Tom's Mantelf6A *2
191JPS/Z'Mutt Link Upf6C+ 3
192Z'Muttnone 5b *52
193Z'mutt Directf6B+ 4
194bonattiV2 ft5b *2
195Brenvanone 5c **53
196The Slow Pullf7C 1
197Brenva Sit Startf7B **17
198The Crimpsf7C **5
199V7V7  
200V8V8 ** 
201PadoleVB 2c 1
202AvonVB 3b 3
203SablonsVB 3c 1
204The Gibbetnone 5b 2
205Bow Cracknone 5a 2
206Old Kent Roadf7A 6b ***8
207Barbed Wire Fencenone 5b 5
208Rampantnone 3a 4
209The Limitnone 5a 6
210Slap Happyf6A 6a ***7
211Can Openerf7A 6b **2
212Scrap Aretenone 5b 2
213Yellimonone 4a 8
214Cumberlandnone 5c 5
215Extendernone 5c 2
216Tricky Dickynone 5b 3
217BellyflopVB 2b 1
218No Hands SlabVB 3a **1
219Central Routenone 2a 1
 BOWLING GREEN BOULDERS  
221Zolaf5 5a 3
222EmileVB 5a 7
223Gauguinf5+ 5b 4
224Maze CrackVB 2a 5
225CamilleV0- 4a 10
226AlfredVB 3a 10
227CorotVB 3a 6
228Maze Chimney finishing leftVB 2a 1
229Maze ChimneyVB 2b 5
230Elephantf6A 6a 1
231Roller ClimbVB 2a 4
232Picassof6A 6a 1
233Monolith Cracknone 3a 3
234BarbizonV1 5c 1
235Reine SofiaVB 2a 3
236SandmanVB 5a 5
237RodinVB 5b 7
238Bowling Green AreteVB 2b 9
239FiorentinoVB 3b 6
240BuonarrotiV0+ 5b 7
241EpsteinV0- 4a 5
242MonetVB 2c * 
 BOULDER PROBLEMS (SS BOULDERING GUIDE)  
244SS Bouldering Problem 38f6C ***1
245SS Boulder Problem 47f6B+ *1
246SS Boulder Problem 48f6C **1
247SS Bouldering Problem 50f6A 1
248SS Bouldering Problem 51f6A+ 1
249SS Bouldering Problem 52f5+ 1
250SS Boulder Problem 66f6A 1
251SS Boulder Problem 101f6A+ 1
252Mojo Traverse (SS B_Guide 162)f7B 1
253Grunge Roverf7C 1
254SS Boulder Problem 167f6B 2
255SS Boulder Problem 168 ssf6A 1
256SS Boulder Problem 170f5 1
257SS Boulder Problem 184f3 1
258SS Boulder Problem 185f5 1
259SS Boulder Problem 187f7A+ *1
260SS Boulder Problem 199 ssf6A **2
261SS Boulder Problem 209f6C 3
262SS Boulder Problem 221f6B+ **2
 LOCATION UNCLEAR  
264HornliV0- 5a *1
265Acid Testf7A+ 2
266Shivvy ChimneyM 3c *1
 HRA AND HRC  
268Yew Tree Cracknone 4b 1
269Annexe Slabnone 5b 3
270Chimney Wallnone 4b 3
271Monolith Girdlenone 2b 1
272Turret Wallnone 2b 1
273Wonderwallnone 2b 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Though I would give a quick updated as I went there the other day. Not much has changed. Still 10 to get in, still a little bit of glass. Pretty quiet overall.
lostpixel - 28/Jun/12
visited there today. i wasn't impressed by the amount of broken glass around not just at the bottom of the routes but mid way up and on the top. i wouldn't of minded if i had not paid the 10 entrance fee but it is clear that they are not looked after as much as they should be. Sticking to Harrisons and Bowles in future
silverpim - 20/Jun/10
Try the SDS start to Krankenkopf, using only jams for the hands. It uses a nice finger/thumb stack if you can reach it. Trad 6a or V2. Jump off when you get your feet on the ledge at 12 feet.
Oliver Hill - 09/Jun/09
I love this crag. Haven't been since the vegetation was cleared and am looking forward to seeing what it's like (although I'll be too weak to do anything there now!). There is still potential here for some very hard new routes (I abbed some lines 18 years ago and they've not been done yet). J
seagull - 11/May/07
high rocks has recently been restored, meaning that allot more of the rock is in condition. the friction of the rock is unrivaled as far as southern sandstone goes
ian h - 04/Apr/05
A wonderful outcrop with a pub not 100 yds from it. Hard though, very hard. Great bouldering problems and really tough routes. The friction is less here than on other local sandstone even in perfect conditons. Not a first time foray for those punters fresh from the plastic.
JoHNY - 02/Jul/04
Traverse above Bum Dragon 7c is called 'crosstown traffic' and is 7c w/ broken hold. There is a SDS in the middle of the wall starting just right of the boulder that is good. SDS to Brenva is 7a. There is also a new traverse going starting as the SDS to Brenva and traversing left low to finish on the right arete- 'the slowpull'. Also repeats of 'Vandal' have called it 7b. Alot of other hard to describe probs in the 7b range.
pete - 08/Aug/03
lots of cool new bouldering happening in the form of starts to routes. brenva sit start fnt 7b bum dragon fnt 7c+ (traverse behind honycomb) coast to coast fnt 7b+ (traverse behind honycomb) high rocks dyno fnt 7b+ (direct to celebration) kinda lingers bum start fnt 7c vandal fnt 7c+ (roof left of judy) shatterd start fnt 6c. bad blood direct start fnt 6c. lord traverse fnt 6b
rob - 19/Apr/03