UKC

Climbs 470
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Emma climbing Advertisement Wall at High Rocks © Daimon Beail

Crag features

Climbing at High Rocks (PLEASE READ)

Following agreement with the Owner, we are pleased to announce that limited climbing is now permitted at High Rocks. In order to ensure access is maintained, it is essential that the following restrictions and procedures are followed carefully. If conditions are abused, climbing will, once again, be suspended.

• Climbing will be available on weekdays when High Rocks is open. Some weekends are possible, especially Sundays. Availability will be made clear at pre-booking.

• Climbers must pre-book at least one day before you wish to climb.

• There will be no access for climbers turning up on the day without pre-booking.

• Book by telephone 01892 515532 or by email info@highrocks.co.uk.

• Climbing is £12 per person for the day. Payment will be taken when booking along with name and contact details.

• Opening time is 10:15 and closing will be about an hour before the light fails.

• Season tickets are not available.

• Access is for roped climbing only – bouldering and abseiling are not permitted.

• Climbers are to make themselves known to staff on arrival by using the intercom system at the gate and enter the rocks as directed. Access is only to be made through this gate. (The gate is to the right of the original turn-style entrance).

• When climbing, please respect High Rocks’ staff requests to have your name checked against the day’s list or move to a different climb if requested.

Please note the following:

• No Bouldering/Bouldering mats.

• No abseiling.

• No Group climbing.

• All climbers must be age 18 or over. No children.

Practical information.

High Rocks is a different climbing environment to Harrison’s, Stone Farm and Bowles Rocks. It is a natural crag with only limited man-made additions. The only belay bolts are on the Hut Boulder.

For all other climbs, natural belays must be used. There are numerous trees ideal for the purpose, but many are set back from the crag edge. You will need a length of static rope to build a belay. This should be a minimum of 10m in length but it is worth taking a longer or a second length where a ‘Y’ hang is required. Slings are of limited use. Chose another climb if you cannot ensure that your karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that no moving ropes come into contact with the rock. An additional rope/handline is advised for retreat from the Isolated Boulder.

 As the name suggests, some of the climbs are high, maybe 12m or more at the north end of the crag and may require a longer than normal climbing rope.

Apart from the main crag, there are various Isolated Buttresses at High Rocks – each has its own character and access method. The three main isolated buttresses are:

Matterhorn Boulder – access by an easy climb on the ramp at the rear to fix a belay, mainly from the overhanging tree branch. Downclimb the ramp when you finish your climb. Do not lower off from the route you just climbed.

Isolated Boulder – Initial access by soloing a route. Ordinary Route (4a) or Simian Progress (5a) are probably the easiest. Once on top, set up the rope and belay for your selected climb. Ensure your karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag. There are a few smaller trees and a large one in the middle. In order to get back down,arrange a rope to hang down Ordinary Route and back climb using the rope as a handline for assistance. Do not lower off from the route you just climbed.

Hut Boulder – There are five pairs of bolts above the popular climbs on the Hut Boulder and these should be used in pairs (there are no interconnecting wires) to build a belay. There is also a legacy iron loop. Whilst this had proven well-fixed at bolt tests, its provenance and overall condition is not known. Hang your karabiner over the edge and ensure moving ropes do not come into contact with the rock. Initial access may be made by soloing a route (Crack Route 4c is an obvious contender). Alternatively, throw a static rope over the Hut Boulder from the mainland. There are a pair of bolts on the mainland near the top of Easy Crack for tying off to. Either use a Shunt or similar protection device to climb Crack Route (4c) or attach a karabiner and climbing rope to the other end of the static line and tie off in a position where Crack Route (4c) may be climbed on top-rope to gain access to the top of the boulder. Ideally, Crack Route should be down climbed when finishing a climb. Do not simply lower off from the route you just climbed.

As with all southern Sandstone crags, please follow the BMC Sandstone Code of Practice.

If you are unsure about setting up belays, read the guidebooks or ask other climbers.

High Rocks, (like other Southern Sandstone crags) is a finite resource, not a climbing wall – please do not treat it like one. Respect the rock, minimise the amount of chalk you use. When you finish your climb, untie and walk back to the ground. Do not lower off.

Approach notes

From Tunbridge Wells, take the A264 for East Grinstead; after 2km (1.2mi) on Rusthall Common turn L at signpost to The Beacon and High Rocks: follow down the narrow hill to a 'Y' junction (rocks visible opposite) where a right turn takes you over a railway bridge and to the High Rocks. The crag entrance is on the left and the car park is a bit further on the left.

Restricted Access

Following agreement with the Owner, we are pleased to announce that limited climbing is now permitted at High Rocks. In order to ensure access is maintained, it is essential that the following restrictions and procedures are followed carefully. If conditions are abused, climbing will, once again, be suspended.

• Climbing will be available on weekdays when High Rocks is open. Some weekends are possible, especially Sundays. Availability will be made clear at pre-booking.

• Climbers must pre-book at least one day before you wish to climb.

• There will be no access for climbers turning up on the day without pre-booking.

• Book by telephone 01892 515532 or by email info@highrocks.co.uk.

• Climbing is £12 per person for the day. Payment will be taken when booking along with name and contact details.

• Opening time is 10:15 and closing will be about an hour before the light fails.

• Season tickets are not available.

• Access is for roped climbing only – bouldering and abseiling are not permitted.

• Climbers are to make themselves known to staff on arrival by using the intercom system at the gate and enter the rocks as directed. Access is only to be made through this gate. (The gate is to the right of the original turn-style entrance).

• When climbing, please respect High Rocks’ staff requests to have your name checked against the day’s list or move to a different climb if requested.

Please note the following:

• No Bouldering/Bouldering mats.

• No abseiling.

• No Group climbing.

• All climbers must be age 18 or over. No children.

Practical information.

High Rocks is a different climbing environment to Harrison’s, Stone Farm and Bowles Rocks. It is a natural crag with only limited man-made additions. The only belay bolts are on the Hut Boulder.

For all other climbs, natural belays must be used. There are numerous trees ideal for the purpose, but many are set back from the crag edge. You will need a length of static rope to build a belay. This should be a minimum of 10m in length but it is worth taking a longer or a second length where a ‘Y’ hang is required. Slings are of limited use. Chose another climb if you cannot ensure that your karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag and that no moving ropes come into contact with the rock. An additional rope/handline is advised for retreat from the Isolated Boulder.

 As the name suggests, some of the climbs are high, maybe 12m or more at the north end of the crag and may require a longer than normal climbing rope.

 

Apart from the main crag, there are various Isolated Buttresses at High Rocks – each has its own character and access method. The three main isolated buttresses are:

Matterhorn Boulder – access by an easy climb on the ramp at the rear to fix a belay, mainly from the overhanging tree branch. Downclimb the ramp when you finish your climb. Do not lower off from the route you just climbed.

Isolated Boulder – Initial access by soloing a route. Ordinary Route (4a) or Simian Progress (5a) are probably the easiest. Once on top, set up the rope and belay for your selected climb. Ensure your karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag. There are a few smaller trees and a large one in the middle. In order to get back down, arrange a rope to hang down Ordinary Route and back climb using the rope as a handline for assistance. Do not lower off from the route you just climbed.

Hut Boulder – There are five pairs of bolts above the popular climbs on the Hut Boulder and these should be used in pairs (there are no interconnecting wires) to build a belay. There is also a legacy iron loop. Whilst this had proven well-fixed at bolt tests, its provenance and overall condition is not known. Hang your karabiner over the edge and ensure moving ropes do not come into contact with the rock. Initial access may be made by soloing a route (Crack Route 4c is an obvious contender). Alternatively, throw a static rope over the Hut Boulder from the mainland. There are a pair of bolts on the mainland near the top of Easy Crack for tying off to. Either use a Shunt or similar protection device to climb Crack Route (4c) or attach a karabiner and climbing rope to the other end of the static line and tie off in a position where Crack Route (4c) may be climbed on top-rope to gain access to the top of the boulder. Ideally, Crack Route should be down climbed when finishing a climb. Do not simply lower off from the route you just climbed.

As with all southern Sandstone crags, please follow the BMC Sandstone Code of Practice.

If you are unsure about setting up belays, read the guidebooks or ask other climbers.

High Rocks, (like other Southern Sandstone crags) is a finite resource, not a climbing wall – please do not treat it like one. Respect the rock, minimise the amount of chalk you use. When you finish your climb, untie and walk back to the ground. Do not lower off.

 

  • Admission charges: High Rocks charge an entry fee to anyone wanting to visit the rocks. For climbers, this is £12 per day
  • Respect ground staff: good behaviour is essential to continued climbing access at High Rocks. Please be polite to any staff you meet in the grounds and follow any instructions they give you.
  • High Rocks Functions, including Weddings: Climbing will not be allowed during weddings and other High Rocks functions that use the rock outcrop. Where climbing is allowed, every effort must be made to avoid causing an impact on High Rocks events. If you are asked to move by a member of staff, please do so immediately.
  • Chalk: is an unwelcome intrusion for non-climbing visitors to the rocks. Keep any use of chalk at High Rocks to the absolute minimum and ensure you brush off any excess chalk once you are finished or avoid using chalk altogether.
  • Bouldering: is banned by the landowner, as are boulder mats - only top roping or soloing is allowed.
  • Rock erosion: as with all crags on Southern Sandstone, the very soft rock can be easily eroded. Ensure no moving ropes are able to contact the rock by extending top ropes over the edge of the crag with static rope or slings. Clean the soles of your shoes before stepping onto the rock – any sand or dirt on them accelerate erosion of footholds and make the climbing harder.
  • Shouting and bad language: don’t use it at High Rocks. Children and other members of the public all visit the rocks as a place of peace and solitude. Please be sensitive to these other visitors.
  • Litter: as with any other crag, please take all litter home with you.
  • Sandstone Code of Practice: all climbers on southern sandstone should be aware of this code, which gives advice on how to reduce your impact on to the rock. It can be found at: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/access-launch-updated-version-of-the-sandstone-code-of-practice
Though I would give a quick updated as I went there the other day. Not much has changed. Still £10 to get in, still a little bit of glass. Pretty quiet overall.
lostpixel - 28/Jun/12
visited there today. i wasn't impressed by the amount of broken glass around not just at the bottom of the routes but mid way up and on the top. i wouldn't of minded if i had not paid the £10 entrance fee but it is clear that they are not looked after as much as they should be. Sticking to Harrisons and Bowles in future
silverpim - 20/Jun/10
Try the SDS start to Krankenkopf, using only jams for the hands. It uses a nice finger/thumb stack if you can reach it. Trad 6a or V2. Jump off when you get your feet on the ledge at 12 feet.
Oliver Hill - 09/Jun/09
I love this crag. Haven't been since the vegetation was cleared and am looking forward to seeing what it's like (although I'll be too weak to do anything there now!). There is still potential here for some very hard new routes (I abbed some lines 18 years ago and they've not been done yet). J
seagull - 11/May/07
high rocks has recently been restored, meaning that allot more of the rock is in condition. the friction of the rock is unrivaled as far as southern sandstone goes
ian h - 04/Apr/05
A wonderful outcrop with a pub not 100 yds from it. Hard though, very hard. Great bouldering problems and really tough routes. The friction is less here than on other local sandstone even in perfect conditons. Not a first time foray for those punters fresh from the plastic.
JoHNY - 02/Jul/04
Traverse above Bum Dragon 7c is called 'crosstown traffic' and is 7c w/ broken hold. There is a SDS in the middle of the wall starting just right of the boulder that is good. SDS to Brenva is 7a. There is also a new traverse going starting as the SDS to Brenva and traversing left low to finish on the right arete- 'the slowpull'. Also repeats of 'Vandal' have called it 7b. Alot of other hard to describe probs in the 7b range.
pete - 08/Aug/03
lots of cool new bouldering happening in the form of starts to routes. brenva sit start fnt 7b bum dragon fnt 7c+ (traverse behind honycomb) coast to coast fnt 7b+ (traverse behind honycomb) high rocks dyno fnt 7b+ (direct to celebration) kinda lingers bum start fnt 7c vandal fnt 7c+ (roof left of judy) shatterd start fnt 6c. bad blood direct start fnt 6c. lord traverse fnt 6b
rob - 19/Apr/03
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