High Rocks

Climbs 312 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 90m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
High Rocks is a designated SSSI, National Monument and owned by The High Rocks (opposite).

All climbers should visit the lower bar BEFORE entering the rocks.

Climbers should pay the £10 entrance fee (2010) and obtain a ticket/receipt. Season ticket holders (£45, 2010) should sign the book. Please DO NOT enter the grounds without a ticket.

The highest of the southern sandstone crags - 12m. Plenty of classic climbs, including the oft-tried Infidel (6a). Lots to keep everyone, including the wandering grockles, amused.

NB: ACCESS CONDITIONS ... By ignoring the access conditions (which are very simple and include having a valid ticket when you enter the grounds) you are jeopardising access to this crag. It is not strictly necessary to phone in advance at present but please call in at the lower bar and pay for entry or sign in if you have a season ticket. Failure to heed this advice will likely lead to the reintroduction of the 'booking system' or the eventual closure of the crag. If you don't want to pay, please do not risk losing access by entering illegally - stay away... The BMC and local climbers have invested considerable efforts (and money) in maintaining access to High Rocks.

Phone number is 01892 515532 - ask for the manager. Detailed contact information is available at http://www.highrocks.co.uk

See also http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2624

Access notes
No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second static rope (8 - 10m)to extend top belays and preferably a carpet sample to clean your feet before you climb.

>From Tunbridge Wells, take the A264 for East Grinstead; after 2km (1.2mi) on Rusthall Common turn L at signpost to The Beacon and High Rocks: follow down the narrow hill to a 'Y' junction (rocks visible opposite) where a right turn takes you over a railway bridge and to the High Rocks. The crag entrance is on the left and car park a bit further on the left. Please pay (or sign in for season ticket holders) in the lower bar BEFORE entering the grounds.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG 
2Orion Cracknone 4c **
3The First Cracknone 6b ***
4Missing Linknone 6b **
5Anaconda Chimneynone 4a **
6Anaconda Cornernone 5b **
7Fungal Smearnone 6b *
8Bone Machinenone 6b
9Addernone 6a **
10Boa Constrictor Chimneynone 4b **
11The Second Generationnone 6b ***
12Cobra Chimneynone 4a
13Renascencenone 6b ***
14Pammyf7A **
15Steps Cracknone 5b ***
16Chimaeranone 7a **
17Cornerstonef7B+ **
18Moving Staircasenone 6b ***
19Judynone 6b **
20Telegram Samnone 6b *
21Rag Tradenone 6b *
22Eft Chimneynone 3a
23Chockstone Chimneynone 2b
24Salad Daysnone 6b **
25Leglocknone 6b *
26Too Tall for Timnone 6a *
27Cut Steps Cracknone 6a **
28Too Hard for Davenone 6b *
29Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 1none 5a *
30Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 2none 5a *
31Bell Rock Transverse Passage Route 3none 4c
32Stranglernone 5a
33Deadwood Chimneynone 2b
34Bell Rock Passagenone 4a
35Spider's Chimneynone 3b **
36Insinuation Cracknone 2b
37Wye Chimneynone 4a
38Slab Chimneynone 2b
39One of Our Chimneys is Missingnone 2b *
40Smooth Chimneynone 4a **
41The Chutenone 5a
42Krankenkopf Cracknone 5b **
43Spankedf7A ***
44Krakennone 6b *
45The Dragonnone 6a **
46Robin's Routenone 6a *
47So What?none 6b *
48Dysenterynone 5c *
49The Prangnone 6a **
50Magneticf7A **
51Lobsternone 6a *
52Infidelnone 6a ***
53Henry the Ninthnone 5b **
54Warning Rock Buttressnone 3b
55Jawsnone 5c **
56Orcanone 5c *
57balcony directnone 4b ***
58Boysen's Cracknone 6a **
59Conchitanone 6a *
60Marquitanone 5c *
61Lucitanone 5c *
62Cool Bananasnone 6c **
63Effienone 5b **
64Cheetahnone 6b *
65Coronation Cracknone 5c ***
66Hale Boppf7C 7a ***
67Bad Bloodnone 6c
68Krait Aretenone 6b ***
69Shelter Aretenone 5c *
70Shelter Chimneynone 2b *
71Shelter Passagenone 4b
72Shelter Slabsnone 5b
73The Oligarchynone 6a
74advertisment wall directnone 5c ***
75Advertisement Wallnone 5b **
76Engagement Wallnone 6a **
77Dyno-Sorenone 6b **
78Quirkusnone 4c
79Dirty Dicknone 4b
80Porgs Progressf7B **
81Crypt Cracknone 4a
82Death Capnone 6b *
83Mervin Directnone 6b *
84Crack and Wall Frontnone 5c **
85Crack And Wallnone 4b
86Yoda (Stand)f7A+ *
87Hut transverse aretenone 4c *
88Educating Airlienone 6b **
89Kinda Lingersnone 6c ***
90Kinda Lingers Sit Startf7A+ **
91Kinda Lingers Sit Down Startf7C ***
92Unforgettablenone 6c **
93Boonoonoonoosnone 6b **
94Firebirdnone 6a *
95Mulligan's Wallnone 5c **
96Bludgeonnone 5c *
97Celebrationnone 5c **
98Brushwood Chimneynone 2b
99Chez's Dynof7A **
100Hut Transverse Passage - Rufrock Routenone 3a *
101Hut Transverse Passage - Central Routenone 3b
102Tilley Lamp Cracknone 6a **
103Lord Traversef6B 6a **
104Nemesisnone 6b ***
105Nemesis Infernonone 6c
106A Touch Too Muchnone 6b **
107Viper Cracknone 5b
108Shatterednone 6b *
109Easy Cracknone 2a *
110Bald Finishnone 5a *
 HUT BOULDER 
112Crack Routenone 4c **
113Pinchgripnone 5c *
114Pussyfootnone 5b **
115Sweaty Pussynone 5c+ ***
116Swing Facenone 5b *
117Birthday Aretenone 5b **
118Birthday Wall (Sequins of Cosmic Turbulence)none 5c *
119Sequins of Cosmic Turbulencenone 5c
120Roof Routenone 5a *
121Rockneynone 5c
122Cough Dropnone 5b *
123Long Stretchnone 5c *
124Roofusnone 6b *
125Idnone 6a *
126Bludnok Wallnone 5c *
127Rhino's Eyebrownone 5a
128Solonone 5a
129Wall right of Solonone 5c
130Silly Cornernone 3a
131Amelia's Little Problemnone 4c
132Awkward Cornernone 5b
133Orrer Cracknone 5c *
134Navy Waynone 5c *
135Bow Spiritnone 6a
136Odin's Wallnone 5c **
137Something Cracknone 6a
138Degeneratenone 5a *
139TestimonyV1 5a **
140DeliriumV2 5c *
141Holly SlabV0- 4a
142Honeycombnone 6b **
143Honeycomb Direct Startnone 6b *
144Craig-y-blanconone 6a *
145Dagger Cracknone 6a *
146Moss Side Storyf6A+ 6a *
147Carbon Fibref6C 6b ***
148Final Destinationf7C ***
 THE ISOLATED BOULDER 
150Ordinary Routenone 4a *
151The Mojof7B ***
152Sloper problem (right of mojo)f7A **
153The Bluesf6C **
154Graveyard Groovenone 5c *
155Tool Wallnone 6a ***
156Forknone 5c **
157Knifenone 5c ***
158Dinner Platenone 5c **
159Simian Progressnone 5a ***
160The Fonzf7A
161Happy Daysf7A **
162Happy Days Variationf6C
1636B on Happy Days boulder, right of treef6B
164Breakfastnone 5c
165Simian Facenone 5b *
166Monkey Nutnone 5b **
167The Sphinxnone 6a *
168Simian Face Direct Startnone 5c
169Simian Mistakenone 5c **
170Simian Mistake Direct Startf6C 6b
171Sputniknone 6a *
172North Wallnone 5a **
173The Helixnone 5a **
 SLAB BOULDER 
175Outside Edge Routenone 3b *
176Jabberwockyf6A 6a
177Holly Routenone 2b *
178Miss Embassynone 5c
179JPSnone 6a **
180Tom's Mantelf6A *
181JPS/Z'Mutt Link Upf6C+
182Z'Muttnone 5b *
183Z'mutt Directf6B+
184bonattiV2 ft5b *
185Brenvanone 5c **
186Brenva Sit Startf7B **
187The Crimpsf7C **
188V7V7
189V8V8 **
190PadoleVB 2c
191AvonVB 3b
192SablonsVB 3c
193The Gibbetnone 5b
194Bow Cracknone 5a
195Old Kent Roadf7A 6b ***
196Barbed Wire Fencenone 5b
197Rampantnone 3a
198The Limitnone 5a
199Slap Happyf6A 6a ***
200Can Openerf7A 6b **
201Scrap Aretenone 5b
202Yellimonone 4a
203Cumberlandnone 5c
204Extendernone 5c
205Tricky Dickynone 5b
206BellyflopVB 2b
207No Hands SlabVB 3a **
208Central Routenone 2a
 BOWLING GREEN BOULDERS 
210Zolaf5 5a
211EmileVB 5a
212Gauguinf5+ 5b
213Maze CrackVB 2a
214CamilleV0- 4a
215AlfredVB 3a
216CorotVB 3a
217Maze Chimney finishing leftVB 2a
218Maze ChimneyVB 2b
219Elephantf6A 6a
220Roller ClimbVB 2a
221Picassof6A 6a
222Monolith Cracknone 3a
223BarbizonV1 5c
224Reine SofiaVB 2a
225SandmanVB 5a
226RodinVB 5b
227Bowling Green AreteVB 2b
228FiorentinoVB 3b
229BuonarrotiV0+ 5b
230EpsteinV0- 4a
231MonetVB 2c *
 BOULDER PROBLEMS (SS BOULDERING GUIDE) 
233SS Bouldering Problem 38f6C ***
234SS Boulder Problem 47f6B+ *
235SS Boulder Problem 48f6C **
236SS Bouldering Problem 50f6A
237SS Bouldering Problem 51f6A+
238SS Bouldering Problem 52f5+
239SS Boulder Problem 66f6A
240SS Boulder Problem 101f6A+
241SS Boulder Problem 167f6B
242SS Boulder Problem 168 ssf6A
243SS Boulder Problem 170f5
244SS Boulder Problem 184f3
245SS Boulder Problem 185f5
246SS Boulder Problem 187f7A+ *
247SS Boulder Problem 199 ssf6A **
248SS Boulder Problem 209f6C
249SS Boulder Problem 221f6B+ **
 LOCATION UNCLEAR 
251HornliV0- 5a *
252Acid Testf7A+
253Shivvy ChimneyM 3c *
 HRA AND HRC 
255Yew Tree Cracknone 4b
256Annexe Slabnone 5b
257Chimney Wallnone 4b
258Monolith Girdlenone 2b
259Turret Wallnone 2b
260Wonderwallnone 2b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graham Ad

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Though I would give a quick updated as I went there the other day. Not much has changed. Still 10 to get in, still a little bit of glass. Pretty quiet overall.
lostpixel - 28/Jun/12
visited there today. i wasn't impressed by the amount of broken glass around not just at the bottom of the routes but mid way up and on the top. i wouldn't of minded if i had not paid the 10 entrance fee but it is clear that they are not looked after as much as they should be. Sticking to Harrisons and Bowles in future
silverpim - 20/Jun/10
Try the SDS start to Krankenkopf, using only jams for the hands. It uses a nice finger/thumb stack if you can reach it. Trad 6a or V2. Jump off when you get your feet on the ledge at 12 feet.
Oliver Hill - 09/Jun/09
I love this crag. Haven't been since the vegetation was cleared and am looking forward to seeing what it's like (although I'll be too weak to do anything there now!). There is still potential here for some very hard new routes (I abbed some lines 18 years ago and they've not been done yet). J
seagull - 11/May/07
high rocks has recently been restored, meaning that allot more of the rock is in condition. the friction of the rock is unrivaled as far as southern sandstone goes
ian h - 04/Apr/05
A wonderful outcrop with a pub not 100 yds from it. Hard though, very hard. Great bouldering problems and really tough routes. The friction is less here than on other local sandstone even in perfect conditons. Not a first time foray for those punters fresh from the plastic.
JoHNY - 02/Jul/04
Traverse above Bum Dragon 7c is called 'crosstown traffic' and is 7c w/ broken hold. There is a SDS in the middle of the wall starting just right of the boulder that is good. SDS to Brenva is 7a. There is also a new traverse going starting as the SDS to Brenva and traversing left low to finish on the right arete- 'the slowpull'. Also repeats of 'Vandal' have called it 7b. Alot of other hard to describe probs in the 7b range.
pete - 08/Aug/03
lots of cool new bouldering happening in the form of starts to routes. brenva sit start fnt 7b bum dragon fnt 7c+ (traverse behind honycomb) coast to coast fnt 7b+ (traverse behind honycomb) high rocks dyno fnt 7b+ (direct to celebration) kinda lingers bum start fnt 7c vandal fnt 7c+ (roof left of judy) shatterd start fnt 6c. bad blood direct start fnt 6c. lord traverse fnt 6b
rob - 19/Apr/03
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These details were last updated on 15/Jan/2012

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