Stone Farm

Climbs 154 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Access notes
No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.

From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MOSS WALL AREA 
2Moss Wallnone 3b
3Moss Wall - Leftnone 4b
4Moss Wall - Rightnone 4c
5Centre Blocknone 2b
6Right Blocknone 2b
 PYRAMID ROUTE AREA 
8Pyramid Routenone 4b
9Pharoah's Cursenone 5a
10Kneeling Bouldernone 4b
11Kneeling Boulder - Direct Startnone 5c
12Kneeling Boulder - Metre to Rightnone 5b
13One Hold Routenone 3b
14Obscence Gesturenone 3a
 STONE FARM CHIMNEY AREA 
16Medway Slabnone 1b *
17Footienone 5c
18Stone Farm Chimneynone 4a *
19Kathmandunone 6b *
20Chalk 'n' Cheesenone 6a
21Top Catnone 6a
22Cat Wallnone 5c *
23Sweet Carolnone 5c
24Stone Farm Cracknone 4b **
25Pine Buttressnone 5c *
26Biometric Slabnone 6b
27Pine Cracknone 3b *
28The Rampnone 2a
29The Facenone 4a
30The Face - Right Finishnone 4b
31Root Chimneynone 1a
 SLAB BUTTRESS AREA 
33Slab Buttressnone 4b
34Slab Butress - Eliminatenone 5a
 SLAB BOULDER AREA 
36Slab Directnone 4a *
37Slab Aretenone 2a *
38Slab Arete - Eliminatenone 5a
 HOLY LEAF CRACK BOULDER AREA 
40Yew Just Crimpnone 6a
41Yew Aretenone 5b
42Garden Wall Cracknone 3a *
43Remotenone 4c *
44Controlnone 5c
45Control Variationnone 6a
46Garden Wall Traversenone 3a
47Holly Leaf Cracknone 1b
48Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Left Handnone 5b
49Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Centernone 6a
50Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Right Handnone 5a
 CURLING CRACK AREA 
52Thinnone 5c *
53Thin - Wall to Leftnone 5b
54Chipperydoodahnone 6a
55Chipperydoodah - Direct Finishnone 6b
56Curling Cracknone 4a **
57Illusionnone 6a *
58Disillusionnone 5c
59Inside or Out?none 2b
 UNDERCUT WALL AREA 
61Gus the Dognone 5c
62Front Facenone 5b *
63Excaliburnone 6a
64Manianone 6a
65Undercut Wallnone 4a **
66Undercut Wall - Right Aretenone 4a
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS AREA 
68A Cheeky Little Numbernone 5b
69Pinnacle Buttress Aretenone 5b *
70Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Handnone 6a
71Pinnacle Buttressnone 5b **
72Pinnacle Buttress Original Routenone 4a
73Praying Mantlesnone 5b
74Easy Cracknone 2a *
75Bare Necessitiesnone 6a
76Bare Essentialsnone 5c
77Bare Essentials - Direct Finishnone 6a
78Belly Upnone 6a
79Pinnacle Chimneynone 2a
80Central Jordannone 2a
81West Jordannone 3a
 STONE FARM PINNACLE AREA 
83Key Wallnone 5a *
84Key Wall Right Handnone 5a
85Belle Vue Terracenone 6a **
86Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Startnone 6b
87Quoi Fairenone 6c
88Girdle Traversenone 5c *
89Extended Girdle Traversenone 6a
90Nose Directnone 5c
91East Jordan Routenone 2b
92East Jordan Route - No Bridgingnone 4a
93Leisure Linenone 5c
94Absent Friendsnone 6a
95Arthur's Little Problemnone 6b
96Milestone Aretenone 4a
97Milestone Stridenone 4b
98Milestone MantleshelfV4 6a+
99Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Startf7B+ 6c
100Concentration Cutnone 6a
101Traverse and Cracknone 2a
102Traverse and Crack - Left Side Left-Hand Facenone 5b
103Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonalnone 1b
104Traverse and Crack - Rounded Aretenone 5c
105Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Leftnone 5a
106Traverse and Crack - Wall Right ofnone 5b
107Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depressionnone 1b
108Traverse and Crack - Right Aretenone 2a
109Open Chimneynone 3a
110Open Chimney - Crack to Leftnone 2b
 BULGING WALL AREA 
112Bulging Cornernone 3b **
113Transparent Accelerating Banananone 5b
114Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problemnone 5b
115Bulging Wallnone 5b
116Ashdown Wallnone 4b *
 INTRODUCTORY CLIMB AREA 
118Introductory Climbnone 2a *
119Introductory Climb - Direct Startnone 2b
120Introductory Climb - Direct Finishnone 3a
121Introductory Climb - Right Handnone 4a
122Introductory Climb - Start Below Finishing Cracknone 3b
123Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traversenone 6a
124Dinosaurs Don't Dynonone 1a *
 INACCESSIBLE BOULDER AREA 
126Gap Traversenone 4a *
127Gap Traverse - Central Linenone 3a
128Guy's Routenone 6c *
129Guy's Route - Left From Niche of Leaning Cracknone 6a
130Leaning Cracknone 5a **
131Leaning Crack - Direct Startnone 5b
132Ducking Fesperatenone 5c *
133SW Corner Scoopnone 5a **
134SW Corner Eliminatenone 5b
135Primitive Groovenone 4b *
136Boulder Wallnone 6a
137Boulder Wall - Overhang Right Handnone 5b
138SE Corner Cracknone 4b *
139SE Corner Crack - Left Side of Undercut Nosenone 5c
140SE Corner Crack - Right Side of Undercut Nosenone 5b
141SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelfnone 5c
142Stinging Nettlef7A+
143Balham Boot Boysnone 6b
144NE Cornernone 5a
145Diagonal Routenone 5b **
146Simpering Savagenone 5b
147Green Wallnone 4c ***
148Green Wall - Direct Finishnone 5a
149Green Wall - Right Hand Finishnone 4c
150Birdie Num-Numsnone 6c **
151Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Startnone 5c
152Low-Level Girdlenone 6b
153Preludenone 2c
154Yew Left Me *f2 3a
155Unknown *f7A
156Choo Choo Mama *M 1c
157Zog the Dog *M 2a
158Marmelade *M 3a
159Peter Pan *f6B+
160Sticky Fingers *f6A
161Traverse *f6B *
162Thomas the Tank *f2+ 3b
163Step Up *f2 2a
164Bin the trainers *f2 2b
165Obscene Gesture *f2+ 3b
166Grooving Away *f3 3b
167Stinging Nettle Variation *f7A+ 6c **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer CurlyStevo

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
When parking nearby to crag, please dont park sideways to road park straight in facing resivoir, you can fit so many more cars in at once!
Jamdahll - 27/Aug/14
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11
Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08
Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08
The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07
its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05
Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05
due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05
Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02
A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02