Climbs 164
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces S

Self portrait - Inaccessible Boulder © Richard Enticknap

Crag features

Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Approach notes

No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.
From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.

When parking nearby to crag, please dont park sideways to road park straight in facing resivoir, you can fit so many more cars in at once!
Jamdahll - 27/Aug/14
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11
Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08
Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08
The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07
its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05
Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05
due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05
Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02
A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Moss Wall Area 
2Moss Wall - Left Block - Left
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none 4b 5
3Moss Wall - Left Block - Centre
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none 3b 44
4Moss Wall - Left Block - Right
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none 4c 7
5Moss Wall - Centre Block
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none 2b 8
6Moss Wall - Right Block - Left
-
f4 1
7Moss Wall - Right Block - Centre
-
none 2b 5
 Kneeling Boulder 
9Pyramid Route
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none 4b 64
10Kneeling Boulder
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none 4b 50
11Pharoah's Curse
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none 5a 31
12Giza the Geezer (Kneeling Boulder - Direct Start)
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none 5c 7
13Bisquee
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f5 * 
14Kheops Progress
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none 5b 7
15One Hold Route
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none 3b 65
16Obscence Gesture
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none 3a 54
 Cat Wall Area 
18Medway Slab
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none 1b *80
19Grave Digger
-
f6A+  
20Footie
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none 5c 48
21More Footie Fun
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f6B+  
22Stone Farm Chimney
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none 4a *101
23Chalk 'n' Cheese
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none 6a 7
24Kathmandu
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none 6b *9
25Top Catnone 6a 2
26Cat Wall
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none 5c *95
27Sweet Carol
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none 5c 18
28Stone Farm Crack
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none 4b **251
29Pine Buttress
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none 5c *102
30Biometric Slabnone 6b 7
31Pine Crack
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none 3b *168
32The Ramp
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none 2a 49
33The Face
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none 4a 70
34The Face - Right Finish
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none 4b 1
35Root Chimney
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none 1a 43
 Slab Buttress 
37A Barely Independent Problem
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none 5a 11
38Slab Buttress
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none 4b 57
39Slab Buttress - Centre
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none 4a  
 Diamond Slab 
41Slab Left
-
f3 1
42Slab Direct
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none 4a *101
43Slab Arete - Eliminate
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none 5a 2
44Slab Arete
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none 2a *89
 Yew Wall 
46Yew Just Crimpnone 6a 6
47Yew Arete
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none 5b 22
48Yew Wall
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none 6b  
 Garden Wall 
50Garden Wall Crack
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none 3a *68
51Remote
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none 4c *101
52Control
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none 5c 46
53Control Variationnone 6a 1
54Holly Leaf Crack
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none 1b 37
55Garden Wall Traversenone 3a 14
56Sahara
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none 5b 1
57Arabian
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none 6a 2
58Gobi
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none 5a 2
 Curling Crack Area 
60Thin
-
none 5c *55
61Thin - Wall to Left
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none 5b 1
62Chipperydoodahnone 6a 31
63Chipperydoodah - Direct Finish
-
none 6b 2
64Curling Cracknone 4a **250
65Illusion
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none 6a *31
66Disillusion
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none 5c 20
67Inside or Out?
-
none 2b 72
 Undercut Wall Area 
69Gus the Dognone 5c 1
70Front Face
-
none 5b *114
71Excaliburnone 6a  
72Manianone 6a 16
73Undercut Wall
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none 4a **184
74Undercut Wall - Right Arete
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none 4a 16
 Pinnacle Buttress Area 
76A Cheeky Little Numbernone 5b 15
77Pinnacle Buttress Aretenone 5b *69
78Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Handnone 6a 15
79Pinnacle Buttress
-
none 5b **130
80Pinnacle Buttress Original Route
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none 4a 32
81Praying Mantles
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none 5b 27
82Easy Crack
-
none 2a *64
83Bare Necessities
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none 6a 45
84Bare Essentials
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none 5c 34
85Bare Essentials - Direct Finish
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none 6a 3
86Belly Upnone 6a 2
87Pinnacle Chimney
-
none 2a 34
88Central Jordan
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none 2a 43
89West Jordannone 3a  
 Stone Farm Pinnacle Area 
91Key Wallnone 5a *129
92Key Wall Right Hand
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none 5a 16
93Belle Vue Terracenone 6a **44
94Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Start
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none 6b 2
95Quoi Faire
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none 6c 3
96Girdle Traverse
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none 5c *6
97Extended Girdle Traverse
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none 6a 1
98Nose Direct
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none 5c 7
99East Jordan Route
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none 2b 32
100East Jordan Route - No Bridging
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none 4a 7
101Leisure Line
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none 5c  
102Absent Friends
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none 6a  
103Arthur's Little Problem
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none 6b  
104Milestone Arete
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none 4a 29
105Milestone Stride
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none 4b 23
106Milestone MantleshelfV4 5
107Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Startf7B+ 1
108Concentration Cut
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none 6a 8
109Traverse and Crack
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none 2a 43
110Traverse and Crack - Left Side Left-Hand Face
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none 5b 4
111Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonal
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none 1b 8
112Traverse and Crack - Rounded Arete
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none 5c 3
113Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Left
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none 5a 4
114Traverse and Crack - Wall Right of
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none 5b 3
115Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depression
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none 1b 8
116Traverse and Crack - Right Arete
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none 2a 8
117Open Chimney
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none 3a 92
118Open Chimney - Crack to Left
-
none 2b 8
 Bulging Wall Area 
120Bulging Corner
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none 3b **143
121Transparent Accelerating Banana
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none 5b 36
122Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problem
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none 5b 11
123Bulging Wall
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none 5b 78
124Ashdown Wall
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none 4b *153
 Introductory Climb Area 
126Introductory Climb
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none 2a *127
127Introductory Climb - Direct Start
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none 2b 15
128Introductory Climb - Direct Finish
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none 3a 15
129Introductory Climb - Right Hand
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none 4a 13
130Introductory Climb - Start Below Finishing Crack
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none 3b 17
131Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traverse
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none 6a 2
132Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
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none 1a *116
 Inaccessible Boulder Area 
134Gap Traverse
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none 4a *28
135Gap Traverse - Central Line
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none 3a 13
136Guy's Route
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none 6c *3
137Guy's Route - Left From Niche of Leaning Crack
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none 6a  
138Leaning Crack
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none 5a **115
139Leaning Crack - Direct Start
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none 5b 11
140Ducking Fesperate
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none 5c *36
141SW Corner Scoop
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none 5a **73
142SW Corner Eliminate
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none 5b 6
143Primitive Groove
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none 4b *101
144Boulder Wall
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none 6a 5
145Boulder Wall - Overhang Right Hand
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none 5b 3
146SE Corner Crack
-
none 4b *93
147SE Corner Crack - Left Side of Undercut Nose
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none 5c 3
148SE Corner Crack - Right Side of Undercut Nose
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none 5b 1
149SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelf
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none 5c 9
150Stinging Nettlef7A+ 31
151Balham Boot Boys
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none 6b 4
152NE Corner
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none 5a 23
153Diagonal Route
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none 5b **16
154Simpering Savage
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none 5b 9
155Green Wall
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none 4c ***14
156Green Wall - Direct Finish
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none 5a 2
157Green Wall - Right Hand Finish
-
none 4c  
158Birdie Num-Nums
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none 6c **3
159Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Start
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none 5c  
160Low-Level Girdle
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none 6b 1
161Prelude
-
none 2c 8
 Unknown Position 
163Yew Left Me
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f2 3
164Unknownf7A 4
165Choo Choo Mama
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none 4
166Zog the Dog
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none 2a 8
167Marmelade
-
none 3a 4
168Peter Pan
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f6B+ 5
169Sticky Fingers
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f6A 1
170Traversef6B *4
171Thomas the Tank
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f2+ 2
172Step Up
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f2 6
173Bin the trainers
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f2 4
174Obscene Gesturef2+ 2
175Grooving Awayf3 1
176Stinging Nettle Variationf7A+ **9
177Problem 101f6B 2
178Problem 102f6B+ 1
179Tiger the Tiger
-
f3 *2
  

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