View larger mapGrid Ref TQ 381347 (OS Landranger #198,187)

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These details were last updated on 21/May/2012

Stone Farm

West Sussex, ENGLAND

Climbs 154 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Now owned by the BMC. Typical height 6m. Good aspect, often dry, but sadly chipped in places. A very good bouldering venue.It is also a very ejoyable place to climb because it is never very crowded, It is hidden away with a nice scenery in the background. I advise you try climbing here! [Oli 5/02 - but note Nick Parker's comments below, same vintage]

Access notes
No leading. Soloing or toproping only. Take a second rope to extend top belays.

From East Grinstead, take the B2110 twd Chiddinglye Wood). Turn L after about 1.6km (1mi) twds Saint Hill and on to Stone Farm. Park cars about 100m down the road from the Farm, the path is opposite the house down W hoarthly rd. The rocks are 100m down the path go left at the southern sandstone sign.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
16 °C
20 kph

2.6mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
18 kph

0.4mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
10 kph

7.2mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Southern sandstone bouldering (2012), Southern Sandstone (2008),
Out of print: Southern Sandstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MOSS WALL AREA  
2Moss Wallnone 3b 37
3Moss Wall - Leftnone 4b 2
4Moss Wall - Rightnone 4c 3
5Centre Blocknone 2b 1
6Right Blocknone 2b 1
 PYRAMID ROUTE AREA  
8Pyramid Routenone 4b 49
9Pharoah's Cursenone 5a 23
10Kneeling Bouldernone 4b 41
11Kneeling Boulder - Direct Startnone 5c 2
12Kneeling Boulder - Metre to Rightnone 5b 4
13One Hold Routenone 3b 52
14Obscence Gesturenone 3a 42
 STONE FARM CHIMNEY AREA  
16Medway Slabnone 1b *71
17Footienone 5c 38
18Stone Farm Chimneynone 4a *85
19Kathmandunone 6b *7
20Chalk 'n' Cheesenone 6a 7
21Top Catnone 6a  
22Cat Wallnone 5c *78
23Sweet Carolnone 5c 14
24Stone Farm Cracknone 4b **199
25Pine Buttressnone 5c *90
26Biometric Slabnone 6b 7
27Pine Cracknone 3b *140
28The Rampnone 2a 43
29The Facenone 4a 57
30The Face - Right Finishnone 4b 1
31Root Chimneynone 1a 32
 SLAB BUTTRESS AREA  
33Slab Buttressnone 4b 42
34Slab Butress - Eliminatenone 5a 10
 SLAB BOULDER AREA  
36Slab Directnone 4a *89
37Slab Aretenone 2a *74
38Slab Arete - Eliminatenone 5a 1
 HOLY LEAF CRACK BOULDER AREA  
40Yew Just Crimpnone 6a 6
41Yew Aretenone 5b 18
42Garden Wall Cracknone 3a *57
43Remotenone 4c *87
44Controlnone 5c 39
45Control Variationnone 6a 1
46Garden Wall Traversenone 3a 9
47Holly Leaf Cracknone 1b 29
48Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Left Handnone 5b 1
49Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Centernone 6a 1
50Holly Leaf Crack Boulder - Right Handnone 5a 2
 CURLING CRACK AREA  
52Thinnone 5c *46
53Thin - Wall to Leftnone 5b 1
54Chipperydoodahnone 6a 26
55Chipperydoodah - Direct Finishnone 6b 2
56Curling Cracknone 4a **203
57Illusionnone 6a *25
58Disillusionnone 5c 16
59Inside or Out?none 2b 56
 UNDERCUT WALL AREA  
61Gus the Dognone 5c 1
62Front Facenone 5b *91
63Excaliburnone 6a  
64Manianone 6a 9
65Undercut Wallnone 4a **147
66Undercut Wall - Right Aretenone 4a 8
 PINNACLE BUTTRESS AREA  
68A Cheeky Little Numbernone 5b 12
69Pinnacle Buttress Aretenone 5b *59
70Pinnacle Buttress Arete Right Handnone 6a 12
71Pinnacle Buttressnone 5b **106
72Pinnacle Buttress Original Routenone 4a 31
73Praying Mantlesnone 5b 21
74Easy Cracknone 2a *56
75Bare Necessitiesnone 6a 37
76Bare Essentialsnone 5c 27
77Bare Essentials - Direct Finishnone 6a 3
78Belly Upnone 6a 2
79Pinnacle Chimneynone 2a 28
80Central Jordannone 2a 35
81West Jordannone 3a  
 STONE FARM PINNACLE AREA  
83Key Wallnone 5a *106
84Key Wall Right Handnone 5a 14
 Climb nameGradex
85Belle Vue Terracenone 6a **39
86Belle Vue Terrace - Direct Startnone 6b 2
87Quoi Fairenone 6c 1
88Girdle Traversenone 5c *5
89Extended Girdle Traversenone 6a  
90Nose Directnone 5c 6
91East Jordan Routenone 2b 28
92East Jordan Route - No Bridgingnone 4a 5
93Leisure Linenone 5c  
94Absent Friendsnone 6a  
95Arthur's Little Problemnone 6b  
96Milestone Aretenone 4a 26
97Milestone Stridenone 4b 19
98Milestone MantleshelfV4 6a+ 5
99Milestone Mantleshelf - Sit Startf7B+ 6c  
100Concentration Cutnone 6a 7
101Traverse and Cracknone 2a 31
102Traverse and Crack - Left Side Left-Hand Facenone 5b  
103Traverse and Crack - Left to Right Diagonalnone 1b 2
104Traverse and Crack - Rounded Aretenone 5c 1
105Traverse and Crack - The Overlap Slanting Up From Right To Leftnone 5a  
106Traverse and Crack - Wall Right ofnone 5b 1
107Traverse and Crack - Pocketed Depressionnone 1b 5
108Traverse and Crack - Right Aretenone 2a 4
109Open Chimneynone 3a 72
110Open Chimney - Crack to Leftnone 2b 2
 BULGING WALL AREA  
112Bulging Cornernone 3b **117
113Transparent Accelerating Banananone 5b 31
114Bulging Corner - RIght Hand Boulder Problemnone 5b 8
115Bulging Wallnone 5b 65
116Ashdown Wallnone 4b *131
 INTRODUCTORY CLIMB AREA  
118Introductory Climbnone 2a *103
119Introductory Climb - Direct Startnone 2b 3
120Introductory Climb - Direct Finishnone 3a 5
121Introductory Climb - Right Handnone 4a 2
122Introductory Climb - Start Below Finishing Cracknone 3b 5
123Introductory Climb - Low-Level Traversenone 6a 1
124Dinosaurs Don't Dynonone 1a *101
 INACCESSIBLE BOULDER AREA  
126Gap Traversenone 4a *21
127Gap Traverse - Central Linenone 3a 9
128Guy's Routenone 6c *2
129Guy's Route - Left From Niche of Leaning Cracknone 6a  
130Leaning Cracknone 5a **83
131Leaning Crack - Direct Startnone 5b 5
132Ducking Fesperatenone 5c *31
133SW Corner Scoopnone 5a **55
134SW Corner Eliminatenone 5b 3
135Primitive Groovenone 4b *73
136Boulder Wallnone 6a 4
137Boulder Wall - Overhang Right Handnone 5b 2
138SE Corner Cracknone 4b *62
139SE Corner Crack - Left Side of Undercut Nosenone 5c 3
140SE Corner Crack - Right Side of Undercut Nosenone 5b 1
141SE Corner Crack - Mantelshelfnone 5c 5
142Stinging Nettlef7A+ 16
143Balham Boot Boysnone 6b 1
144NE Cornernone 5a 18
145Diagonal Routenone 5b **13
146Simpering Savagenone 5b 8
147Green Wallnone 4c ***11
148Green Wall - Direct Finishnone 5a 1
149Green Wall - Right Hand Finishnone 4c  
150Birdie Num-Numsnone 6c **2
151Birdie Num-Nums - Step Off Large Boulder to Startnone 5c  
152Low-Level Girdlenone 6b 1
153Preludenone 2c 5
154Yew Left Me *f2 3a 3
155Unknown *f7A 3
156Choo Choo Mama *M 1c 3
157Zog the Dog *M 2a 4
158Marmelade *M 3a 2
159Peter Pan *f6B+ 3
160Sticky Fingers *f6A 1
161Traverse *f6B *1
162Thomas the Tank *f2+ 3b 2
163Step Up *f2 2a 3
164Bin the trainers *f2 2b 3
165Obscene Gesture *f2+ 3b 1
166Grooving Away *f3 3b 1
167Stinging Nettle Variation *f7A+ 6c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
One of the smaller outcrops in the area but contains several good climbs with a nice mix of thuggy, technical, powerfull, and plain nails routes. Recent tree clearance work has not only helped dry the crag but also makes this a very picturesque place to climb as most top outs now look across the valley. My only complaint is that the crag is becoming very popular and as a result is becoming damaged. Please read and be familiar with the sandstone code displayed on signs and in guidebooks as for many of us regulars this is all we have apart from pulling on plastic indoors. Also if you drive to the crag, please be considerate when using the layby to park, leave enough room for everyone and DO NOT park infront of the house or stick out too far into the road as this is the only access to the resevior and must be kept clear for emergency services should they need. If not, it wont be long until we lose this layby and have to park all the way down the hill.
clem - 22/May/11

Massive wear on the faces from the past few months weather has lead to some of the route becoming v tricky. Some should be upgraded. Lots of moss has grown due to the poor summer weather making many of the route green and slimey. Still a lovely place but I wont be going back until late 08/early 09 when it should be in better condition
Faceonthewall - 08/Sep/08

Stone farm is a brilliant place for a first time outdoors as i experienced last sunday. great crag:)
matt_climber - 27/Jun/08

The nearest little road to this crag is Admiral's Bridge Road, off West Hoathly Road.
rock waif - 05/Apr/07

its an amazing place, lovely scenery and never busy at all i luvit
david_owen - 06/Oct/05

Nice place to climb, but beware of thieves operating in the small car park. Do not leave anything valuable visable in your car.
frostyone - 07/Jun/05

due to erosion stone farm climb should be upgraded.but what a beautiful place it is.
brixton climber - 08/Mar/05

Although Nick obviously thinks it\'s terrible, i have to strongly disagree!, Yes te starts are difficult and yes some of the holds are eroded, but the aren\'t foot long smears on EVERY climb just on the climbs near Cat wall wich he probably couldn\'t do anyway! there 6B\'s around there! i think a good climb is to go up the Stone Farm chimney(4A), then swing out to the right and finish on Cat Wall(5C-6B), he\'s catorgorized a few of the climbs into ALL of the climbs,In my opinion Stone Farm is a very desirable location and area!
Oli - 15/May/02

A lovely setting, really peaceful, overlooking a reservoir and the bluebell railway line, complete with tooting steamtrains every half an hour. But the quality of the rock is poor. Massive amounts of erosion on the footholds at the base of just about every route. In a lot of places there were 2 foot long scoops worn into the rock where once there must have been toe holds, and super slopery handholds where once half-decent pockets must have been. To be honest I almost felt guilty climbing there, the rock seemed so fragile. A few good beginners routes, and at the other end of the grading scale there looked to be some excellent looking stick hard font-style slopery boulder problems, ( I wouldn\'t know though, as I couldn\'t get off the ground on the harder stuff!) but in the mid grades (which is what I was looking for -- around the 5a / 5b mark), most routes were incredibly eroded and looked like they had seen much better days, making them harder but not necessarily more rewarding -- it was like climbing the ghosts of routes, not the routes themselves.
Nick Parker - 13/May/02