Climbs 65
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces S

Clean, delicate, bold and exposed. © Fiend

Crag features

A collection of south facing schist crags on the northern side of the glen offering good climbing in a sunny location, with a short but steep approach and worthy of much more attention than they receive. The lower and middle crags mainly offer lower and mid grade routes, whilst the upper crags are of most interest to E grade leaders.

Approach notes

Park at the big 'Honeymoon Bridge' layby at GR258043 on the A83 going from arrochar up towards the rest and be thankful. Walk up the old road (parallel to the A83) until a rough path leads off right past some small walls on the left to the Middle Crag. The Upper crag is a further 5 minutes walk above the middle crag.

climbed these crags as fa with jim dival in the 80s very fond momories of long summer nights and the mighty midge, last climb i did was fear on i think the middle crag to old to climb now
Ray Cluer - 20/Mar/06
Few minutes walk from the Car Park, Bit boggy under foot. First Tier is very slabby, not a lot of pro, but some simple easy bouldering up to 5c ish Second Tier, Nice Layback crack STUDENTS ROUTE S 4a, easy to get first bit of Pro in if your tall. To the left we also did a 5a crack, not Adj grade to it tho?? 3 x 5a moves stacked, nice short problem/route with lots of gear, which can be hard to place due to the moves. Didnt make it up to the Third Tiar. Belay Stakes on 2nd tier are a long way from the crag edge, with rope stretch a potential problem, suggest taking a length of Static rope to set up the belays. We used 50m of Dynamic to set up a 2 point anchor and the remainder only just touched down for the second. 30m of Static should be enough.
Lancs Lad - 05/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Approach Walls 
2The Smee MerchantHVS 5a 3
3The Handrail EffectHVS 5b 2
4The Right Handrail EffectE1 5c 1
5The Pocket Poseur
f5 3
 Lower Crag 
7Cluer's Cluef5 1
8Shirleyf4 2
9Under Arrestf4 2
 Middle Crag 
11Good Day Sunshine
VS 4b 16
VS 4c 11
HVS 4c 8
E2 5c *3
15Lady MadonnaVS 5a *17
16Polythene Pam
HVS 5a *15
17Polyethylene ManE2 6a **2
VS 4b *20
19Dear Prudence
HVS 5a 10
20Student's Route
S 4a *45
21Pockets of ExcellenceE5 6a **8
22Roadmans Crack
HVS 5a *6
23The Cost of Living
E2 6a *4
E1 5c 5
25Lucy in the Sky
E1 5b 9
26Cadbury'sE1 5a *5
 Upper Crag 
VD *14
29Outside EdgeHVS 4c *11
30All Heroes Die YoungE3 6a *3
31Marabou Stork NightmaresE6 6b *1
32Love BuzzE7 6b 1
33LedgeislationE2 5c 1
34The Hooded Groove
E2 5c **18
E1 5b 8
36The Edge of InsanityE4 5c **5
37The FugueE9 6c *** 
38Short Sharp Shock
E4 6a **3
39Double Clutching
E3 6a *1
40Prime Ape
E3 6a  
HVS 5a 6
E1 5c  
E2 5c  
E3 5c  
45Cosmic Corner
VS 4b 4
46Boulder DashVS 4c 2
47The Sharp Kiss
E3 6a * 
48Tick Tock
E6 6b *** 
E1 5b * 
50Quartz Slab
E2 5b 1
51Quartz Crack
E2 5b 3
 Independence Crag 
E4 5c * 
54New PositionE2 5c *1
 So Far Away Buttress 
56AftershockE3 5c **1
57Give Us A BreakE1 5b *1
58The Nitty-gritty Dirt Route
E1 5a  
59Rough and Tumble
E1 5b  
 Great Slab 
61The Incredible HulkE5 6a ** 
62LaplandE1 5a * 
63The Ladder
VS 4b  
HVS 4c *1
65Rock SculptureE3 5c *1
 Viz Buttress 
E3 6a * 
68Mad Midgiesf4+ *1

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