Glen Croe

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Mica schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of south facing schist crags on the northern side of the glen offering good climbing in a sunny location, with a short but steep approach and worthy of much more attention than they receive. The lower and middle crags mainly offer lower and mid grade routes, whilst the upper crags are of most interest to E grade leaders.

Access notes
Park at the big 'Honeymoon Bridge' layby at GR258043 on the A83 going from arrochar up towards the rest and be thankful. Walk up the old road (parallel to the A83) until a rough path leads off right past some small walls on the left to the Middle Crag. The Upper crag is a further 5 minutes walk above the middle crag.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Arran, Arrochar and the Southern Highlands (1997), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 APPROACH WALLS  
2The Smee MerchantHVS 5a 3
3The Handrail EffectHVS 5b 2
4The Right Handrail EffectE1 5c 1
5The Pocket PoseurV1 5a 3
 LOWER CRAG  
7Cluer's ClueV1 5c 1
8ShirleyV0 5a 2
9Under ArrestV0 5a 2
 MIDDLE CRAG  
11Good Day SunshineVS 4b 16
12RitaVS 4c 11
13MichelleHVS 4c 8
14AlabastaE2 5c *3
15Lady MadonnaVS 5a *17
16Polythene PamHVS 5a *14
17Polyethylene ManE2 6a **2
18DorisVS 4b *20
19Dear PrudenceHVS 5a 9
20Student's RouteS 4a *45
21Pockets of ExcellenceE5 6a **8
22Roadmans CrackHVS 5a *6
23The Cost of LivingE2 6a *4
24P.C.31E1 5c 5
25Lucy in the SkyE1 5b 9
26Cadbury'sE1 5a *5
 UPPER CRAG  
28ZigzagVD *14
29Outside EdgeHVS 4c *9
30All Heroes Die YoungE3 6a *3
31Marabou Stork NightmaresE6 6b *1
32Love BuzzE7 6b 1
33LedgeislationE2 5c 1
34The Hooded GrooveE2 5c **18
35CrossoverE1 5b 8
36The Edge of InsanityE4 5c **4
37The FugueE9 6c *** 
38Short Sharp ShockE4 6a **3
39Double ClutchingE3 6a *1
40Prime ApeE3 6a  
41FearHVS 5a 6
42QuartzymodoE1 5c  
43BreakdanceE2 5c  
44PegomaniacE3 5c  
45Cosmic CornerVS 4b 4
46Boulder DashVS 4c 2
47The Sharp KissE3 6a * 
48Tick TockE6 6b *** 
49LitterbugE1 5b * 
50Quartz SlabE2 5b 1
51Quartz CrackE2 5b 3
 INDEPENDENCE CRAG  
53ImpositionE4 5c * 
54New PositionE2 5c *1
 SO FAR AWAY BUTTRESS  
56AftershockE3 5c **1
57Give Us A BreakE1 5b *1
58The Nitty-gritty Dirt RouteE1 5a  
59Rough and TumbleE1 5b  
 GREAT SLAB  
61The Incredible HulkE5 6a ** 
62LaplandE1 5a * 
63The LadderVS 4b  
64FearlessHVS 4c *1
65Rock SculptureE3 5c *1
 VIZ BUTTRESS  
67BollocksE3 6a * 
68Mad MidgiesV0+ *1
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climbed these crags as fa with jim dival in the 80s very fond momories of long summer nights and the mighty midge, last climb i did was fear on i think the middle crag to old to climb now
Ray Cluer - 20/Mar/06
Few minutes walk from the Car Park, Bit boggy under foot. First Tier is very slabby, not a lot of pro, but some simple easy bouldering up to 5c ish Second Tier, Nice Layback crack STUDENTS ROUTE S 4a, easy to get first bit of Pro in if your tall. To the left we also did a 5a crack, not Adj grade to it tho?? 3 x 5a moves stacked, nice short problem/route with lots of gear, which can be hard to place due to the moves. Didnt make it up to the Third Tiar. Belay Stakes on 2nd tier are a long way from the crag edge, with rope stretch a potential problem, suggest taking a length of Static rope to set up the belays. We used 50m of Dynamic to set up a 2 point anchor and the remainder only just touched down for the second. 30m of Static should be enough.
Lancs Lad - 05/Jul/05