Glen Croe

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Mica schist – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A collection of south facing schist crags on the northern side of the glen offering good climbing in a sunny location, with a short but steep approach and worthy of much more attention than they receive. The lower and middle crags mainly offer lower and mid grade routes, whilst the upper crags are of most interest to E grade leaders.

Access notes
Park at the big 'Honeymoon Bridge' layby at GR258043 on the A83 going from arrochar up towards the rest and be thankful. Walk up the old road (parallel to the A83) until a rough path leads off right past some small walls on the left to the Middle Crag. The Upper crag is a further 5 minutes walk above the middle crag.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Arran, Arrochar and the Southern Highlands (1997), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 APPROACH WALLS 
2The Smee MerchantHVS 5a
3The Handrail EffectHVS 5b
4The Right Handrail EffectE1 5c
5The Pocket PoseurV1 5a
 LOWER CRAG 
7Cluer's ClueV1 5c
8ShirleyV0 5a
9Under ArrestV0 5a
 MIDDLE CRAG 
11Good Day SunshineVS 4b
12RitaVS 4c
13MichelleHVS 4c
14AlabastaE2 5c *
15Lady MadonnaVS 5a *
16Polythene PamHVS 5a *
17DorisVS 4b *
18Dear PrudenceHVS 5a
19Student's RouteS 4a *
20Pockets of ExcellenceE5 6a **
21Roadmans CrackHVS 5a *
22The Cost of LivingE2 6a *
23P.C.31E1 5c
24Lucy in the SkyE1 5b
25Cadbury'sE1 5a *
 UPPER CRAG 
27ZigzagVD *
28Outside EdgeHVS 4c *
29All Heroes Die YoungE3 6a *
30Marabou Stork NightmaresE6 6b *
31Love BuzzE7 6b
32LedgeislationE2 5c
33The Hooded GrooveE2 5c **
34CrossoverE1 5b
35The Edge of InsanityE4 5c **
36The FugueE9 6c ***
37Short Sharp ShockE4 6a **
38Double ClutchingE3 6a *
39Prime ApeE3 6a
40FearHVS 5a
41QuartzymodoE1 5c
42BreakdanceE2 5c
43PegomaniacE3 5c
44Cosmic CornerVS 4b
45Boulder DashVS 4c
46The Sharp KissE3 6a *
47Tick TockE6 6b ***
48LitterbugE1 5b *
49Quartz SlabE2 5b
50Quartz CrackE2 5b
 INDEPENDENCE CRAG 
52ImpositionE4 5c *
53New PositionE2 5c *
 SO FAR AWAY BUTTRESS 
55AftershockE3 5c **
56Give Us A BreakE1 5b *
57The Nitty-gritty Dirt RouteE1 5a
58Rough and TumbleE1 5b
 GREAT SLAB 
60The Incredible HulkE5 6a **
61LaplandE1 5a *
62The LadderVS 4b
63FearlessHVS 4c *
64Rock SculptureE3 5c *
 VIZ BUTTRESS 
66BollocksE3 6a *
67Mad MidgiesV0+ *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
climbed these crags as fa with jim dival in the 80s very fond momories of long summer nights and the mighty midge, last climb i did was fear on i think the middle crag to old to climb now
Ray Cluer - 20/Mar/06
Few minutes walk from the Car Park, Bit boggy under foot. First Tier is very slabby, not a lot of pro, but some simple easy bouldering up to 5c ish Second Tier, Nice Layback crack STUDENTS ROUTE S 4a, easy to get first bit of Pro in if your tall. To the left we also did a 5a crack, not Adj grade to it tho?? 3 x 5a moves stacked, nice short problem/route with lots of gear, which can be hard to place due to the moves. Didnt make it up to the Third Tiar. Belay Stakes on 2nd tier are a long way from the crag edge, with rope stretch a potential problem, suggest taking a length of Static rope to set up the belays. We used 50m of Dynamic to set up a 2 point anchor and the remainder only just touched down for the second. 30m of Static should be enough.
Lancs Lad - 05/Jul/05
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These details were last updated on 30/Mar/2012
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