Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 78m a.s.l
Faces S

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Stack Wall 
2Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3PawnHS 4b 1
4Rock ReturnVS 4c 1
5End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c *6
7Pulling for TwoE6 6b **3
8Talking HeadsE2 5b **79
9Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *55
10The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b *4
11South Sea BubbleE3 5c **100
12Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b *3
13The Long Run DirectE6 6a **7
14The Long RunE5 6a **36
15The CadE6 6a ***97
16The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b ***6
17The Clown
-
E7 6b **11
18The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b ***5
19A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b **7
20Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b **6
21The Angle Man
-
E7 6b * 
22Blue PeterE4 5c **89
23Sarah GreenE4 5c *9
24Art GroupieE6 6b *10
25green gilbertE1 5a *55
26The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27Wall of HorrorsE3 5b 9
28The Big Overhang
-
A2 9
 Prom Buttress 
30Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31Prom
-
HVS  
32The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
 Mordor Wall 
35Seal Song
-
E5 6b *3
36Roof RackE7 6c ** 
37Mordor
-
HVS 3
38Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
39Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41Mistaken IdentityHVS 5
42FlytrapE2 5b ***62
43In the Next Room
-
E3 5c *1
44Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b * 
45Flytrap RoofE5 6a *2
46The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b * 
47The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b **1
48The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b *** 
49ArachnidE5 6a 4
50Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a *4
51Dai Lemming!E4 6a *2
5220,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***20
53Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 2
54Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
55Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
56Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
57Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
58The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
59Route 66
-
VS  
 Wen Zawn 
61The HitcherE1 5b *4
62Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
63Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
64Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
65Ipso FactoVS 4c 3
66Annie's ArchE2 5b 4
67KrakenVS 4c *6
68(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a *1
69Genuflex
-
E2 5b 4
70Archway
-
E2 5b *4
71The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **5
72Spider's Web
-
E2 5b ***27
73Billy Bud
-
E6 6b **2
74The 4th DimensionE7 6c ***2
75The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b *19
76Spider WallE1 5a **168
77Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **127
78BritomartisHVS 4c ***694
79Vend-tE2 5b *6
80Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a **5
81SprungHVS 5b *1
82The Trap
-
HVS 4c 25
83Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 6
84Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b *1
85Dislocation DanceE3 5c *4
86UhuruE1 5a 3
87Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 5
88ThorVS 4c 15
89The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
90Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b ***11
91The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
92Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a **3
93T.RexE3 5c ***109
94Metal GuruE4 6a ***4
95Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b **1
96Rubble
-
E7 2
97The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **9
98The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b ***298
99The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***28
100WenHVS 5a **476
101ZeusE2 5b **72
102If
-
HVS 5a 8
103High Pressure
-
E4 5c *3
104The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***357
105Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 5
106A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***2382
107Dde
-
HVS 5a *60
 Easter Island Gully 
109Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
110SupercrackE3 5c **88
111Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a *4
112Wonderwall
-
E3 6a **50
113I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a **7
114PhagocyteHVS 5b ***77
115Merchant Man
-
E1 5b *24
116Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a *17
117Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 5
118Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
119Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
120Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
121Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 6
122Big GutVS 4c *34
123HombreE1 5b ***160
124Lost In SpaceE4 6a 2
125This Year's Model
-
E3 5c **30
126Praetor
-
E1 5c 9
127Swastika
-
E1 5c *29
128Sex LobsterE3 5c ***18
129BelialHVS 5a *12
130Pequod
-
E3 5c *2
131DragE1 5b *7
132NeutrinoE4 6b 9
133Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
134Annihilator
-
E5 6a **7
135Ormuzd
-
E4 6a ***7
136The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b *4
137The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b *4
138Ahriman
-
HVS 5a *9
139Gazebo
-
HVS 5a *12
140Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
141BelvedereE2 5c *2
142Diagonal
-
VS 4c 3
143Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
144Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
145Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
 Main Cliff 
 Hustler Area 
148Gringo
-
E1 5b *16
149The Third Man
-
E2 5b **16
150Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
151The HustlerHVS 5a **49
152The Three MuskateersE5 6a **2
153MestizoE1 5b **61
154MulattoHVS 4c,5a 2
155Piglets Left BootE5 6b *1
156Hud
-
HVS 5a *14
 Phaedra Area 
158Zed
-
HVS 5a  
159Phaedra
-
E1 5c *22
160Horse Above WaterE3 5c 4
161HeroinE1 5b **23
162Dream SellerE1 5b *12
163Day TripE2 5b *1
164NightrideE1 5b **118
165Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a **34
166ScavengerHVS 5a ***366
 Needle Area 
168Hyena
-
E3 5c *1
169The AssassinE3 5c **86
170The NeedleE3 5c ***74
 Big Groove Area 
172HypodermicE2 5c **48
173The CamelE4 6a **36
174SyringeE4 6a **68
175Morphine
-
E2 5c *8
176Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c **2
177Jaborandi
-
E2 5b *14
178Peepshow
-
E1 5b *17
179PentatholHVS 5b **98
180Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *6
181The Big GrooveE3 5c ***246
182The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***25
183Main Wall/Mona ComplexE2 5b ***11
184The Wastelands
-
E4 6a *9
185The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **4
186SebastopolE5 6a ***5
187Food and DrinkE6 6b ***2
188Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***30
189CitadelE5 6b ***80
190RamadanE5 6b ***5
191Hunger
-
E5 6a ***53
192Extinction
-
E8 6b *** 
 Dinosaur Area 
194Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b **20
195MammothE5 6b ***15
196Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b **3
197The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b **8
198DinosaurE5 6a ***43
199AlienE6 6b ***15
200Alien/PositronE6 6b ***2
201Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***11
202ET
-
E6 6b *1
 Positron Area 
204EraserheadE6 6a **15
205PositronE5 6a ***119
206Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***42
207The Rat RaceE3 5c **142
208Bass HunterE4 6a **3
209Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a *13
 Gogarth Area 
211Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
212Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b **1
213DevoteeE2 5c *26
214GogarthE1 5b ***799
215Resolution DirectE2 5b ***295
216ResolutionE2 5b *60
 Emulator Area 
218SimulatorVS *58
219Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, **53
220EmulatorE1 5b ***452
221Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
222SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **10
223ImitatorVS 5a *260
224AardvarkE2 6a **214
 Cordon Bleu Area 
226Cordon BleuHVS 5a **135
227RevelationE1 5b *3
228Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b *2
229AchillesE3 5c **41
230Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 6
231Diogenes
-
HVS 5a *45
232SunstrokeE2 5b *35
233InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *4
 Girdle Traverses 
235The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 8
236Trunk LineE4 5c ***6
237The HorizonE4 5c *** 
 Upper Left, Main Cliff 
239Minnesota Fats
-
S 2
240The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
241Devils MarblesE5 6b *2
 Upper Tier 
243Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
244Slow DancerE2 5b 5
245BezelVS 5a *307
246Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 10
247The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **119
248Fail SafeE2 5b **102
249Afreet StreetE5 6a *4
250Energy CrisisE5 6a **49
251The RampHVS 5a **229
252The GauntletHVS 5a **314
253The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 8
254Mill Street JunctionE1 5b 2
255Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
256Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
257Broadway
-
HVS 5a 3
258DoomsvilleE2 5b *7
259MayfairE3 5c 5
260Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **241
261Park Lane
-
E1 5b *39
262The StrandE2 5b ***812
263Hyde ParkE4 6b 3
264Manor Park
-
E5 6a 10
265Central ParkHVS 5a **229
266Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 5
267Times Square
-
E1 5a 24
268Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c *20
269Fifth AvenueE1 5c **103
270Shag RockE1 5a *19
271Bitter DaysE1 5b 2
272Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
273CrowbarE1 5b *17
274The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b *10
275Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a *12
276Winking CrackE3 5c **126
277Cruise On ThroughE7 **1
278The CruiseE5 6b **27
279Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c *1
280Nomad
-
VS 1
281Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
282Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b *5
283Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *15
284PuffinVS 4b *64
285Force 8
-
HVS 5a *8
286Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **57
287Pantin
-
VS 5a *49
288U.F.O.
-
E2 5b *102
289Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **70
290BarbarossaE7 6b ***19
291BlacklegE5 6a *31
292StrikeE4 6a **184
293The Rift
-
VS 4c *34
294AcidHVS 1
295Dirtigo
-
VS 4c *60
296Psychoandy
-
E6 6c ** 
297The Night ProwlerE1 5b *2

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