Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 78m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Access notes
Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c 2
3End GameVS 4c 6
4Not Fade AwayE4 5c *3
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **2
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **66
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *45
8The Demons of BoschE7 6b *3
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c **89
10Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *2
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **4
12The Long RunE5 6a **29
13The CadE6 6a ***55
14The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***4
15The ClownE7 6b **8
16The Hollow ManE7 6b ***4
17A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **5
18Flower of EvilE7 6b **5
19The Angle ManE7 6b * 
20Blue PeterE4 5c **75
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *5
22Art GroupieE6 6b *5
23green gilbertE1 5a *43
24The WhipE1 5a 6
25Wall of HorrorsE2 5b 7
26The Big OverhangA2 7
28BullittHVS 5a  
30The DopeHVS 5a  
31HashHVS 5a  
33Seal SongE5 6b * 
34Roof RackE7 6c ** 
35MordorHVS 2
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
37Six White BloomersVS 4c 1
38ColditzVS 4c 9
39Mistaken IdentityHVS 4
40FlytrapE2 5b ***51
41In the Next RoomE3 5c *1
42Bury My KneeE5 6b * 
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a * 
44The Porcelain ArenaE6 6b * 
45The Shadowy World of the NemotodesE5 6b ** 
46The Ultraviolet ExterminatorE7 6b *** 
47ArachnidE5 6a 3
48Holyhead RevisitedE5 6a *1
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a *1
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***11
51The HitcherE1 5b *3
52Jug PatrolE1 5b 1
53Touching ClothE1 5b  
54Oijee WallE1 5b 1
55Point BlankVS 5a  
56SkippyE1 5b 1
57The Walls of JerichoE1 5b  
58Route 66VS  
60SkippyE1 5b  
61Oijee WallE1 5b  
62The HitcherE1 5b * 
63Jug PatrolE1 5b  
64MaverickVS 4c 4
65Mr SealVS 4c 4
66MustangVS 4b 3
67Annie's ArchE2 5b 1
68KrakenVS 4c *2
69(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip LockE4 6a *1
70GenuflexE2 5b 3
71ArchwayE2 5b *3
72The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **2
73Spider's WebE2 5b ***24
74Billy BudE6 6b ** 
75The BluebottleE2 5b *13
76Spider WallE1 5a **116
77Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **107
78BritomartisHVS 4c ***493
79Vend-tE2 5b *5
80Gobbler's AreteE3 6a **4
81The TrapHVS 4c 23
82Minute ManHVS 5a 5
83Evidently ChickentownE5 6b * 
84Dislocation DanceE3 5c *3
85Boogie WoogieVS 4b 3
86ThorVS 4c 12
87The Unrideable DonkyE7  
88Conan the LibrarianE7 6b ***7
89The Mad BrownE7  
90Games Climbers PlayE5 6a **2
91T.RexE3 5c ***96
92Metal GuruE4 6a ***2
93Hardback ThesaurusE7 6b ** 
94RubbleE7 1
95The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **5
96The Concrete ChimneyHVS 5a ***270
97The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***9
98WenHVS 5a **358
99ZeusE2 5b **63
100IfHVS 5a 7
101High PressureE4 5c *3
102The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***245
103Echo BeachE2 5b 3
104A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***1182
105DdeHVS 5a *48
107Watership DownVS 4c  
108SupercrackE3 5c **80
109Exit GrooveHVS 5a *2
110WonderwallE3 6a **45
111I Wonder WhyE5 6a **5
112PhagocyteHVS 5b ***61
113Merchant ManE1 5b *26
114Tape WormHVS 5a *14
115Small GutHVS 5a 3
116FlukeHVS 5b 1
117Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
118CrossoverVS 4c 2
119Rock Island LineHVS 5a 3
120Big GutVS 4c *38
121HombreE1 5b ***98
122Lost In SpaceE4 6a 1
123This Year's ModelE3 5c **27
124PraetorE1 5c 8
125SwastikaE1 5c *21
126Sex LobsterE3 5c ***7
127BelialHVS 5a *8
128PequodE3 5c *1
129DragE1 5b *5
130NeutrinoE4 6b 8
131Exit ChimneyVS 4c 3
132AnnihilatorE5 6a **5
133OrmuzdE4 6a ***4
134The Red SofaE5 6b *1
135The Ancient MarinerE5 6b *1
136AhrimanHVS 5a *7
137GazeboHVS 5a *10
138PerpendicularVS 4b 2
139BelvedereE2 5c *1
140DiagonalVS 4c 3
141DiatomVS 4c 10
142MicronHVS 5a 2
143MicrodotHVS 5a 2
146GringoE1 5b *14
147The Third ManE2 5b **13
148Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
149The HustlerHVS 5a **36
150The Three MuskateersE5 6a ** 
151MestizoE1 5b **49
152MulattoHVS 4c,5a 1
153Piglets Left BootE5 6b * 
154HudHVS 5a *13
156ZedHVS 5a  
157PhaedraE1 5c *19
158Horse Above WaterE3 5c 3
159HeroinE1 5b **15
160Dream SellerE1 5b *9
161NightrideE1 5b **112
162Scavenger DirectHVS 5a **21
163ScavengerHVS 5a ***236
165HyenaE3 5c * 
166The AssassinE3 5c **74
167The NeedleE3 5c ***52
169HypodermicE2 5c **36
170The CamelE4 6a **24
171SyringeE4 6a **57
172MorphineE2 5c *6
173JaborandiE2 5b *8
174PeepshowE1 5b *14
175PentatholHVS 5b **83
176Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *3
177The Big GrooveE3 5c ***194
178The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***20
179The WastelandsE4 6a *7
180The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **2
181SebastopolE5 6a ***3
182Food and DrinkE6 6b ***1
183Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***22
184CitadelE5 6b ***57
185RamadanE5 6b ***2
186HungerE5 6a ***35
187ExtinctionE8 6b *** 
189Mammoth DirectE6 6b **12
190MammothE5 6b ***11
191Wall of FossilsE6 6b ** 
192The Big SleepE6 6b **7
193DinosaurE5 6a ***35
194AlienE6 6b ***11
195Alien/PositronE6 6b *** 
196Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***8
197ETE6 6b * 
199EraserheadE6 6a **11
200PositronE5 6a ***97
201Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***24
202The Rat RaceE3 5c **113
203Bubbly Situation BluesE4 6a *10
205Falls RoadE4 5c 3
206Return to GarthgogE5 6a/b ** 
207DevoteeE2 5c *19
208GogarthE1 5b ***575
209Resolution DirectE2 5b ***215
210ResolutionE2 5b *52
212SimulatorVS *48
213StimulatorE3 5c,5b, **47
214EmulatorE1 5b ***332
215LardvarkE5 6b  
216SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **6
217ImitatorVS 5a *215
218AardvarkE2 6a **193
220Cordon BleuHVS 5a **127
221RevelationE1 5b *2
222Coming on StrongE6 6b *2
223AchillesE3 5c **34
224Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 4
225DiogenesHVS 5a *35
226SunstrokeE2 5b *27
227InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *3
229The Girdle TraverseHVS 4c 5
230Trunk LineE4 5c ***6
231The HorizonE4 5c *** 
233Minnesota FatsS 1
234The FinisherE1 5b 1
235Devils MarblesE5 6b *1
237SulcusVS 5a 4
238Slow DancerE2 5b 4
239BezelVS 5a *255
240CartwheelE2 5b 9
241The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **97
242Fail SafeE2 5b **91
243Energy CrisisE5 6a **36
244The RampHVS 5a **199
245The GauntletHVS 5a **268
246The CracksHVS 5a 7
247Amphitheatre WallHVS 4c 4
248Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
249BroadwayHVS 5a 2
250DoomsvilleE2 5b *6
251MayfairE3 5c 2
252Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **202
253Park LaneE1 5b *32
254The StrandE2 5b ***561
255Hyde ParkE4 6b 2
256Manor ParkE5 6a 9
257Central ParkHVS 5a **200
258Street SurvivorE2 5c 4
259Times SquareE1 5a 21
260Tequila SunriseE2 5c *17
261Fifth AvenueE1 5c **87
262Shag RockE1 5a *16
263Bitter DaysE1 5b 1
264Black SpotHVS 5a 1
265CrowbarE1 5b *13
266The HorrorshowE5 6b *8
267Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's ChestE5 6a *11
268Winking CrackE3 5c **104
269The CruiseE5 6b **22
270Hang Ten (in the Green Room)E6 6c * 
271CampionHVS 5a 2
272Puffin Direct StartHVS 5b *1
273Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *10
274PuffinVS 4b *58
275Force 8HVS 5a *7
276Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **45
277PantinVS 5a *39
278U.F.O.E2 5b *88
279Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **60
280BarbarossaE7 6b ***14
281BlacklegE5 6a *25
282StrikeE4 6a **150
283The RiftVS 4c *31
284DirtigoVS 4c *53
285PsychoandyE6 6c ** 
286NomadVS 1
287Sprung *HVS 5b *1
288Main Wall *E2 5b ***2
289Uhuru *E1  
290Ipso Facto *VS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Reeves

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02