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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 215839 (OS Landranger #114)

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These details were last updated on 22/May/2006

Gogarth North Stack (North Stack Wall)

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Features some of the most serious routes in the area -- which says a great deal of the standard of climbing required here. Steady head compulsory. Classics include "The Cad" and "The Bells! The Bells!". Half the number of routes here weigh in at E6 or above. Some aid-fun can be had in the Parliament House Cave on a rainy day. A mixture of single-, and multi-pitch climbs to 45 metres.

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Guidebooks
Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c 2
2End GameVS 4c 6
3Not Fade AwayE4 5c *2
4Pulling for TwoE6 6b **1
5Talking HeadsE2 5b **40
6Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a 36
7The Demons of BoschE7 6b *2
8South Sea BubbleE3 5c *63
9Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *1
10The Long Run DirectE6 6a **3
11The Long RunE5 6a **25
12The CadE6 6a ***45
13The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***3
 Climb nameGradex
14The ClownE7 6b **8
15The Hollow ManE7 6b ***3
16A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **4
17Flower of EvilE7 6b **5
18The Angle ManE7 6b * 
19Blue PeterE4 5c **54
20Sarah GreenE4 5c *5
21Art GroupieE6 6b *5
22green gilbertE1 5a 30
23The WhipE1 5a 5
24Wall of HorrorsE2 5b 2
25The Big OverhangA2 7
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Access notes
Some routes left of "The Cad" affected by tide. Please consult the general Craig Gogarth entry for access notes.

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one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05