Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 78m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c 2
3End GameVS 4c 6
4Not Fade AwayE4 5c *3
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **2
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **72
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *48
8The Demons of BoschE7 6b *3
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c **93
10Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *2
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **4
12The Long RunE5 6a **29
13The CadE6 6a ***57
14The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***4
15The ClownE7 6b **8
16The Hollow ManE7 6b ***4
17A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **5
18Flower of EvilE7 6b **5
19The Angle ManE7 6b * 
20Blue PeterE4 5c **78
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *5
22Art GroupieE6 6b *6
23green gilbertE1 5a *44
24The WhipE1 5a 6
25Wall of HorrorsE3 5b 7
26The Big OverhangA2 7
28BullittHVS 5a  
30The DopeHVS 5a  
31HashHVS 5a  
33Seal SongE5 6b * 
34Roof RackE7 6c ** 
35MordorHVS 2
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
37Six White BloomersVS 4c 1
38ColditzVS 4c 9
39Mistaken IdentityHVS 4
40FlytrapE2 5b ***55
41In the Next RoomE3 5c *1
42Bury My KneeE5 6b * 
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a * 
44The Porcelain ArenaE6 6b * 
45The Shadowy World of the NemotodesE5 6b ** 
46The Ultraviolet ExterminatorE7 6b *** 
47ArachnidE5 6a 3
48Holyhead RevisitedE5 6a *1
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a *1
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***16
51Jug PatrolE1 5b 1
52Touching ClothE1 5b  
53Oijee WallE1 5b 1
54Point BlankVS 5a  
55SkippyE1 5b 1
56The Walls of JerichoE1 5b  
57Route 66VS  
59The HitcherE1 5b *3
60MaverickVS 4c 4
61Mr SealVS 4c 4
62MustangVS 4b 3
63Ipso FactoVS 4c 1
64Annie's ArchE2 5b 3
65KrakenVS 4c *2
66(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip LockE4 6a *1
67GenuflexE2 5b 3
68ArchwayE2 5b *3
69The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **2
70Spider's WebE2 5b ***25
71Billy BudE6 6b **1
72The 4th DimensionE7 6c ***1
73The BluebottleE2 5b *15
74Spider WallE1 5a **131
75Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **121
76BritomartisHVS 4c ***524
77Vend-tE2 5b *5
78Gobbler's AreteE3 6a **4
79SprungHVS 5b *1
80The TrapHVS 4c 24
81Minute ManHVS 5a 5
82Evidently ChickentownE5 6b * 
83Dislocation DanceE3 5c *4
84UhuruE1 5a 2
85Boogie WoogieVS 4b 4
86ThorVS 4c 12
87The Unrideable DonkyE7  
88Conan the LibrarianE7 6b ***7
89The Mad BrownE7  
90Games Climbers PlayE5 6a **2
91T.RexE3 5c ***101
92Metal GuruE4 6a ***2
93Hardback ThesaurusE7 6b ** 
94RubbleE7 1
95The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **7
96The Concrete ChimneyHVS 5b ***284
97The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***13
98WenHVS 5a **389
99ZeusE2 5b **65
100IfHVS 5a 7
101High PressureE4 5c *3
102The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***271
103Echo BeachE2 5b 4
104A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***1298
105DdeHVS 5a *49
107Watership DownVS 4c  
108SupercrackE3 5c **83
109Exit GrooveHVS 5a *3
110WonderwallE3 6a **46
111I Wonder WhyE5 6a **6
112PhagocyteHVS 5b ***64
113Merchant ManE1 5b *20
114Tape WormHVS 5a *15
115Small GutHVS 5a 3
116FlukeHVS 5b 1
117Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
118CrossoverVS 4c 2
119Rock Island LineHVS 5a 4
120Big GutVS 4c *31
121HombreE1 5b ***112
122Lost In SpaceE4 6a 1
123This Year's ModelE3 5c **29
124PraetorE1 5c 8
125SwastikaE1 5c *22
126Sex LobsterE3 5c ***10
127BelialHVS 5a *9
128PequodE3 5c *1
129DragE1 5b *5
130NeutrinoE4 6b 8
131Exit ChimneyVS 4c 3
132AnnihilatorE5 6a **5
133OrmuzdE4 6a ***4
134The Red SofaE5 6b *1
135The Ancient MarinerE5 6b *1
136AhrimanHVS 5a *7
137GazeboHVS 5a *10
138PerpendicularVS 4b 2
139BelvedereE2 5c *1
140DiagonalVS 4c 3
141DiatomVS 4c 10
142MicronHVS 5a 2
143MicrodotHVS 5a 2
146GringoE1 5b *14
147The Third ManE2 5b **14
148Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
149The HustlerHVS 5a **37
150The Three MuskateersE5 6a **1
151MestizoE1 5b **51
152MulattoHVS 4c,5a 1
153Piglets Left BootE5 6b * 
154HudHVS 5a *13
156ZedHVS 5a  
157PhaedraE1 5c *19
158Horse Above WaterE3 5c 3
159HeroinE1 5b **20
160Dream SellerE1 5b *9
161NightrideE1 5b **109
162Scavenger DirectHVS 5a **25
163ScavengerHVS 5a ***249
165HyenaE3 5c * 
166The AssassinE3 5c **79
167The NeedleE3 5c ***56
169HypodermicE2 5c **40
170The CamelE4 6a **25
171SyringeE4 6a **59
172MorphineE2 5c *6
173JaborandiE2 5b *8
174PeepshowE1 5b *14
175PentatholHVS 5b **85
176Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *4
177The Big GrooveE3 5c ***208
178The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***20
179Main Wall/Mona ComplexE2 5b ***4
180The WastelandsE4 6a *7
181The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **2
182SebastopolE5 6a ***3
183Food and DrinkE6 6b ***1
184Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***27
185CitadelE5 6b ***61
186RamadanE5 6b ***2
187HungerE5 6a ***41
188ExtinctionE8 6b *** 
190Mammoth DirectE6 6b **12
191MammothE5 6b ***11
192Wall of FossilsE6 6b ** 
193The Big SleepE6 6b **7
194DinosaurE5 6a ***40
195AlienE6 6b ***13
196Alien/PositronE6 6b *** 
197Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***9
198ETE6 6b * 
200EraserheadE6 6a **13
201PositronE5 6a ***111
202Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***26
203The Rat RaceE3 5c **120
204Bass HunterE4 6a **1
205Bubbly Situation BluesE4 6a *10
207Falls RoadE4 5c 3
208Return to GarthgogE5 6a/b ** 
209DevoteeE2 5c *19
210GogarthE1 5b ***631
211Resolution DirectE2 5b ***236
212ResolutionE2 5b *52
214SimulatorVS *53
215StimulatorE3 5c,5b, **47
216EmulatorE1 5b ***371
217LardvarkE5 6b  
218SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **9
219ImitatorVS 5a *232
220AardvarkE2 6a **198
222Cordon BleuHVS 5a **123
223RevelationE1 5b *2
224Coming on StrongE6 6b *2
225AchillesE3 5c **38
226Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 4
227DiogenesHVS 5a *38
228SunstrokeE2 5b *29
229InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *3
231The Girdle TraverseHVS 5b 6
232Trunk LineE4 5c ***6
233The HorizonE4 5c *** 
235Minnesota FatsS 1
236The FinisherE1 5b 1
237Devils MarblesE5 6b *1
239SulcusVS 5a 4
240Slow DancerE2 5b 4
241BezelVS 5a *270
242CartwheelE2 5b 9
243The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **108
244Fail SafeE2 5b **97
245Afreet StreetE5 6a *1
246Energy CrisisE5 6a **42
247The RampHVS 5a **205
248The GauntletHVS 5a **282
249The CracksHVS 5a 7
250Amphitheatre WallHVS 4c 4
251Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
252BroadwayHVS 5a 2
253DoomsvilleE2 5b *6
254MayfairE3 5c 3
255Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **214
256Park LaneE1 5b *35
257The StrandE2 5b ***623
258Hyde ParkE4 6b 2
259Manor ParkE5 6a 9
260Central ParkHVS 5a **215
261Street SurvivorE2 5c 4
262Times SquareE1 5a 21
263Tequila SunriseE2 5c *17
264Fifth AvenueE1 5c **85
265Shag RockE1 5a *18
266Bitter DaysE1 5b 1
267Black SpotHVS 5a 1
268CrowbarE1 5b *14
269The HorrorshowE5 6b *8
270Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's ChestE5 6a *11
271Winking CrackE3 5c **118
272The CruiseE5 6b **25
273Hang Ten (in the Green Room)E6 6c * 
274NomadVS 1
275CampionHVS 5a 2
276Puffin Direct StartHVS 5b *1
277Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *12
278PuffinVS 4b *60
279Force 8HVS 5a *8
280Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **50
281PantinVS 5a *43
282U.F.O.E2 5b *95
283Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **61
284BarbarossaE7 6b ***16
285BlacklegE5 6a *28
286StrikeE4 6a **162
287The RiftVS 4c *31
288DirtigoVS 4c *53
289PsychoandyE6 6c ** 
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02