Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 78m a.s.l
Faces S

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Stack Wall 
2Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3PawnHS 4b 1
4Rock ReturnVS 4c 1
5End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c *6
7Pulling for TwoE6 6b **3
8Talking HeadsE2 5b **98
9Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *62
10The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b *4
11South Sea BubbleE3 5c **108
12Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b *3
13The Long Run DirectE6 6a **7
14The Long RunE5 6a **36
15The CadE6 6a ***98
16The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b ***6
17The Clown
-
E7 6b **11
18The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b ***5
19A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b **7
20Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b **6
21The Angle Man
-
E7 6b * 
22Blue PeterE4 5c **97
23Sarah GreenE4 5c *9
24Art GroupieE6 6b *10
25green gilbertE1 5a *58
26The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27Wall of HorrorsE3 5b 9
28The Big Overhang
-
A2 19
 Prom Buttress 
30Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31Prom
-
HVS  
32The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
 Mordor Wall 
35Seal Song
-
E5 6b *3
36Roof RackE7 6c ** 
37Mordor
-
HVS 3
38Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
39Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41Mistaken IdentityHVS 5
42FlytrapE2 5b ***105
43Flytrap - The Nightflight VariationE3 5c *1
44In the Next Room
-
E3 5c *1
45Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b * 
46Flytrap RoofE5 6a *2
47The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b * 
48The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b **1
49The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b *** 
50ArachnidE5 6a 4
51Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a *4
52Dai Lemming!E4 6a *2
5320,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***20
54Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 2
55Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
56Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
57Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
58Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
59The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
60Route 66
-
VS  
 Wen Zawn 
62The HitcherE1 5b *4
63Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
64Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
65Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
66Ipso FactoVS 4c 3
67Annie's ArchE2 5b 4
68KrakenVS 4c *6
69(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a *1
70Genuflex
-
E2 5b 4
71Archway
-
E2 5b *4
72The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **5
73Spider's Web
-
E2 5b ***27
74Billy Bud
-
E6 6b **2
75The 4th DimensionE7 6c ***2
76The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b *21
77Spider WallE1 5a **178
78Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **155
79BritomartisHVS 4c ***726
80Vend-tE2 5b *6
81Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a **5
82SprungHVS 5b *1
83The Trap
-
HVS 4c 25
84Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 6
85Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b *1
86Dislocation DanceE3 5c *4
87UhuruE1 5a 3
88Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 5
89ThorVS 4c 15
90The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
91Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b ***11
92The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
93Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a **3
94T.RexE3 5c ***174
95Metal GuruE4 6a ***4
96Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b **1
97Rubble
-
E7 2
98The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **10
99The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b ***417
100The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***44
101WenHVS 5a **514
102ZeusE2 5b **96
103If
-
HVS 5a 8
104High Pressure
-
E4 5c *3
105The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***398
106Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 6
107A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***2527
108Dde
-
HVS 5a *60
 Easter Island Gully 
110Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
111SupercrackE3 5c **100
112Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a *4
113Wonderwall
-
E3 6a **57
114I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a **7
115PhagocyteHVS 5b ***82
116Merchant Man
-
E2 5b *26
117Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a *17
118Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 5
119Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
120Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
121Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
122Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 7
123Big GutVS 4c *46
124HombreE1 5b ***178
125Lost In SpaceE4 6a 2
126This Year's Model
-
E3 5c **32
127Praetor
-
E1 5c 9
128Swastika
-
E1 5c *29
129Sex LobsterE3 5c ***22
130BelialHVS 5a *12
131Pequod
-
E3 5c *2
132DragE1 5b *8
133NeutrinoE4 6b 9
134Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
135Annihilator
-
E5 6a **7
136Ormuzd
-
E4 6a ***9
137The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b *4
138The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b *4
139Ahriman
-
HVS 5a *9
140Gazebo
-
HVS 5a *12
141Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
142BelvedereE2 5c *2
143Diagonal
-
VS 4c 3
144Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
145Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
146Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
 Main Cliff 
 Hustler Area 
149Gringo
-
E1 5b *17
150The Third Man
-
E2 5b **19
151Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
152The HustlerHVS 5a **49
153The Three MuskateersE5 6a **2
154MestizoE1 5b **75
155MulattoHVS 4c,5a 2
156Piglets Left BootE5 6b *1
157Hud
-
HVS 5a *14
 Phaedra Area 
159Zed
-
HVS 5a  
160Phaedra
-
E1 5c *24
161Horse Above WaterE3 5c 4
162HeroinE1 5b **26
163Dream SellerE1 5b *13
164Day TripE2 5b *1
165NightrideE1 5b **141
166Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a **37
167ScavengerHVS 5a ***380
 Needle Area 
169Hyena
-
E3 5c *2
170The AssassinE3 5c **110
171The NeedleE3 5c ***80
 Big Groove Area 
173HypodermicE2 5c **52
174The CamelE4 6a **38
175SyringeE4 6a **70
176Morphine
-
E2 5c *11
177Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c **4
178Jaborandi
-
E2 5b *16
179Peepshow
-
E1 5b *18
180PentatholHVS 5b **100
181Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *6
182The Big GrooveE3 5c ***265
183The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***26
184Main Wall/Mona ComplexE2 5b ***21
185The Wastelands
-
E4 6a *11
186The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **4
187SebastopolE5 6a ***5
188Food and DrinkE6 6b ***2
189Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***34
190CitadelE5 6b ***82
191RamadanE5 6b ***6
192Hunger
-
E5 6a ***58
193Extinction
-
E8 6b *** 
 Dinosaur Area 
195Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b **21
196MammothE5 6b ***15
197Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b **3
198The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b **8
199DinosaurE5 6a ***62
200AlienE6 6b ***22
201Alien/PositronE6 6b ***2
202Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***13
203ET
-
E6 6b *1
 Positron Area 
205EraserheadE6 6a **20
206PositronE5 6a ***191
207Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***46
208The Rat RaceE3 5c **152
209Bass HunterE4 6a **5
210Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a *14
 Gogarth Area 
212Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
213Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b **1
214DevoteeE2 5c *30
215GogarthE1 5b ***850
216Resolution DirectE2 5b ***330
217ResolutionE2 5b *63
 Emulator Area 
219SimulatorVS *61
220Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, **63
221EmulatorE1 5b ***479
222Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
223SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **10
224ImitatorVS 5a *277
225AardvarkE2 6a **234
 Cordon Bleu Area 
227Cordon BleuHVS 5a **164
228RevelationE1 5b *3
229Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b *2
230AchillesE3 5c **44
231Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 6
232Diogenes
-
HVS 5a *50
233SunstrokeE2 5b *36
234InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *4
 Girdle Traverses 
236The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 8
237Trunk LineE4 5c ***8
238The HorizonE4 5c *** 
 Upper Left, Main Cliff 
240Minnesota Fats
-
S 2
241The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
242Devils MarblesE5 6b *2
 Upper Tier 
244Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
245Slow DancerE2 5b 5
246BezelVS 5a *318
247Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 10
248The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **134
249Fail SafeE2 5b **113
250Afreet StreetE5 6a *4
251Energy CrisisE5 6a **58
252The RampHVS 5a **242
253The GauntletHVS 5a **329
254The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 8
255Mill Street JunctionE1 5b 2
256Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
257Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
258Broadway
-
HVS 5a 3
259DoomsvilleE2 5b *7
260MayfairE3 5c 5
261Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **252
262Park Lane
-
E1 5b *42
263The StrandE2 5b ***878
264Hyde ParkE4 6b 3
265Manor Park
-
E5 6a 10
266Central ParkHVS 5a **250
267Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 5
268Times Square
-
E1 5a 26
269Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c *23
270Fifth AvenueE1 5c **118
271Shag RockE1 5a *19
272Bitter DaysE1 5b 2
273Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
274CrowbarE1 5b *18
275The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b *10
276Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a *12
277Winking CrackE3 5c **158
278Cruise On ThroughE7 **1
279The CruiseE5 6b **34
280Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c *1
281Nomad
-
VS 1
282Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
283Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b *5
284Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *15
285PuffinVS 4b *69
286Force 8
-
HVS 5a *8
287Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **72
288Pantin
-
VS 5a *50
289U.F.O.
-
E2 5b *106
290Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **85
291BarbarossaE7 6b ***19
292BlacklegE5 6a *32
293StrikeE4 6a **204
294The Rift
-
VS 4c *34
295AcidHVS 1
296Dirtigo
-
VS 4c *64
297Psychoandy
-
E6 6c ** 
298The Night ProwlerE1 5b *2

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