Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 78m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Access notes
Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH STACK WALL 
2Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c
3End GameVS 4c
4Not Fade AwayE4 5c *
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a
8The Demons of BoschE7 6b *
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c *
10Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **
12The Long RunE5 6a **
13The CadE6 6a ***
14The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***
15The ClownE7 6b **
16The Hollow ManE7 6b ***
17A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **
18Flower of EvilE7 6b **
19The Angle ManE7 6b *
20Blue PeterE4 5c **
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *
22Art GroupieE6 6b *
23green gilbertE1 5a
24The WhipE1 5a
25Wall of HorrorsE2 5b
26The Big OverhangA2
 PROM BUTTRESS 
28BullittHVS 5a
29PromHVS
30The DopeHVS 5a
31HashHVS 5a
 MORDOR WALL 
33Seal SongE5 6b *
34Roof RackE7 6c **
35MordorHVS
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c
37Six White BloomersVS 4c
38ColditzVS 4c
39Mistaken IdentityHVS
40FlytrapE2 5b ***
41In the Next RoomE3 5c *
42Bury My KneeE5 6b *
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a *
44The Porcelain ArenaE6 6b *
45The Shadowy World of the NemotodesE5 6b **
46The Ultraviolet ExterminatorE7 6b ***
47ArachnidE5 6a
48Holyhead RevisitedE5 6a *
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a *
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE3 5c **
51The HitcherE1 5b *
52Jug PatrolE1 5b
53Touching ClothE1 5b
54Oijee WallE1 5b
55Point BlankVS 5a
56SkippyE1 5b
57The Walls of JerichoE1 5b
58Route 66VS
 WEN ZAWN 
60SkippyE1 5b
61Oijee WallE1 5b
62The HitcherHVS 5a
63Jug PatrolE1 5b
64MaverickVS 4c
65Mr SealVS 4c
66MustangVS 4b
67Annie's ArchE2 5b
68KrakenVS 4c *
69(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip LockE4 6a *
70GenuflexE2 5b
71ArchwayE2 5b *
72The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **
73Spider's WebE2 5b ***
74Billy BudE6 6b **
75The BluebottleE2 5b *
76Spider WallHVS 5a **
77Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **
78BritomartisHVS 4c ***
79Vend-tE2 5b *
80Gobbler's AreteE3 6a **
81The TrapHVS 4c
82Minute ManHVS 5a
83Evidently ChickentownE5 6b *
84Dislocation DanceE3 5c *
85Boogie WoogieVS 4b
86ThorVS 4c
87The Unrideable DonkyE7
88Conan the LibrarianE7 6b ***
89The Mad BrownE7
90Games Climbers PlayE5 6a **
91T.RexE3 5c ***
92Metal GuruE4 6a ***
93Hardback ThesaurusE7 6b **
94RubbleE7
95The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **
96The Concrete ChimneyHVS 5a ***
97The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***
98WenHVS 5a **
99ZeusE2 5b *
100IfHVS 5a
101High PressureE4 5c *
102The Quartz IcicleE2 5b **
103Echo BeachE2 5b
104A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***
105DdeHVS 5a *
 EASTER ISLAND GULLY 
107Watership DownVS 4c
108SupercrackE3 5c ***
109Exit GrooveHVS 5a *
110WonderwallE3 6a **
111I Wonder WhyE5 6a **
112PhagocyteHVS 5a **
113Merchant ManE1 5b *
114Tape WormHVS 5a *
115Small GutHVS 5a
116FlukeHVS 5b
117Rotten GutHVS 5a
118CrossoverVS 4c
119Rock Island LineHVS 5a
120Big GutVS 4c
121HombreE1 5b ***
122Lost In SpaceE4 6a
123This Year's ModelE3 5c **
124PraetorE1 5c
125SwastikaE1 5c *
126Sex LobsterE3 5c ***
127BelialHVS 5a *
128PequodE3 5c *
129DragE1 5b *
130NeutrinoE4 6b
131Exit ChimneyVS 4c
132AnnihilatorE5 6a **
133OrmuzdE4 6a ***
134The Red SofaE5 6b *
135The Ancient MarinerE5 6b *
136AhrimanHVS 5a *
137GazeboHVS 5a *
138PerpendicularVS 4b
139BelvedereE2 5c *
140DiagonalVS 4c
141DiatomVS 4c
142MicronHVS 5a
143MicrodotHVS 5a
 MAIN CLIFF 
 HUSTLER AREA 
146GringoE1 5b *
147The Third ManE2 5b **
148Hustler corner crack directE2 5b *
149The HustlerHVS 4c **
150The Three MuskateersE5 6a **
151MestizoE1 5b **
152MulattoHVS 4c,5a
153Piglets Left BootE5 6b *
154HudHVS 5a *
 PHAEDRA AREA 
156ZedHVS 5a
157PhaedraE1 5c *
158Horse Above WaterE3 5c
159HeroinE1 5b **
160Dream SellerE1 5b *
161NightrideE1 5b **
162Scavenger DirectHVS 5a **
163ScavengerHVS 5a ***
 NEEDLE AREA 
165HyenaE3 5c *
166The AssassinE3 5c **
167The NeedleE3 5c ***
 BIG GROOVE AREA 
169HypodermicE2 5c **
170The CamelE4 6a **
171SyringeE4 6a **
172MorphineE2 5c *
173JaborandiE2 5b *
174PeepshowE1 5b *
175PentatholHVS 5a **
176Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *
177The Big GrooveE3 5c ***
178The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***
179The WastelandsE4 6a *
180The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **
181SebastopolE5 6a ***
182Food and DrinkE6 6b ***
183Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***
184CitadelE5 6b ***
185RamadanE5 6b ***
186HungerE5 6a ***
187ExtinctionE8 6b ***
 DINOSAUR AREA 
189Mammoth DirectE6 6b **
190MammothE5 6b ***
191Wall of FossilsE6 6b **
192The Big SleepE6 6b **
193DinosaurE5 6a ***
194AlienE6 6b ***
195Alien/PositronE6 6b ***
196Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***
197ETE6 6b *
 POSITRON AREA 
199EraserheadE6 6a **
200PositronE5 6a ***
201Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***
202The Rat RaceE3 5c *
203Bubbly Situation BluesE4 6a *
 GOGARTH AREA 
205Falls RoadE4 5c
206Return to GarthgogE5 6a/b **
207DevoteeE2 5c *
208GogarthE1 5b **
209Resolution DirectE2 5b ***
210ResolutionE2 5b *
 EMULATOR AREA 
212SimulatorVS *
213StimulatorE3 5c,5b, **
214EmulatorE1 5b ***
215LardvarkE5 6b
216SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **
217ImitatorVS 4c *
218AardvarkE2 6a **
 CORDON BLEU AREA 
220Cordon BleuHVS 5b **
221RevelationE1 5b *
222Coming on StrongE6 6b *
223AchillesE3 5c **
224Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a
225DiogenesHVS 5a *
226SunstrokeE2 5b *
227InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *
 GIRDLE TRAVERSES 
229The Girdle TraverseHVS 4c
230Trunk LineE4 5c ***
231The HorizonE4 5c ***
 UPPER LEFT, MAIN CLIFF 
233Minnesota FatsS
234The FinisherE1 5b
235Devils MarblesE5 6b *
 UPPER TIER 
237SulcusVS 5a
238Slow DancerE2 5b
239BezelVS 5a *
240CartwheelE2 5b
241The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **
242Fail SafeE2 5b **
243Energy CrisisE5 6a ***
244The RampHVS 5a **
245The GauntletHVS 5a **
246The CracksHVS 5a
247Amphitheatre WallHVS 4c
248Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c
249BroadwayHVS 5a
250DoomsvilleE2 5b *
251MayfairE3 5c
252Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5b **
253Park LaneE1 5b *
254The StrandE2 5b ***
255Hyde ParkE4 6b
256Manor ParkE5 6a
257Central ParkHVS 5a **
258Street SurvivorE2 5c
259Times SquareE1 5a
260Tequila SunriseE2 5c *
261Fifth AvenueE1 5c **
262Shag RockE1 5a *
263Bitter DaysE1 5b
264Black SpotHVS 5a
265CrowbarE1 5b *
266The HorrorshowE5 6b *
267Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's ChestE5 6a *
268Winking CrackE3 5c ***
269The CruiseE5 6b **
270Hang Ten (in the Green Room)E6 6c *
271CampionHVS 5a
272Puffin Direct StartHVS 5b *
273Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *
274PuffinVS 4b *
275Force 8HVS 5a *
276Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **
277PantinVS 5a *
278U.F.O.E2 5b *
279Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c *
280BarbarossaE6 6b ***
281BlacklegE5 6a *
282StrikeE3 6a **
283The RiftVS 4c *
284DirtigoVS 4c *
285PsychoandyE6 6c **
286NomadVS
287Sprung *HVS 5b *
288Main Wall *E2 5b ***
289Uhuru *E1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Reeves

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/Apr/2014

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