Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 78m a.s.l
Faces S

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Stack Wall 
2Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 2
3End Game
-
VS 4c 6
4Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c *5
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **2
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **87
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *51
8The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b *3
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c **99
10Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b *2
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **6
12The Long RunE5 6a **35
13The CadE6 6a ***92
14The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b ***5
15The Clown
-
E7 6b **10
16The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b ***4
17A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b **6
18Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b **5
19The Angle Man
-
E7 6b * 
20Blue PeterE4 5c **91
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *8
22Art GroupieE6 6b *9
23green gilbertE1 5a *47
24The Whip
-
E1 5a 7
25Wall of HorrorsE3 5b 8
26The Big Overhang
-
A2 7
 Prom Buttress 
28Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
29Prom
-
HVS  
30The Dope
-
HVS 5a  
31Hash
-
HVS 5a  
 Mordor Wall 
33Seal Song
-
E5 6b *2
34Roof RackE7 6c ** 
35Mordor
-
HVS 2
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
37Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
38Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
39Mistaken IdentityHVS 4
40FlytrapE2 5b ***61
41In the Next Room
-
E3 5c *1
42Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b * 
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a *2
44The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b * 
45The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b ** 
46The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b *** 
47ArachnidE5 6a 3
48Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a *3
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a *1
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***19
51Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 1
52Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b  
53Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
54Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
55Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
56The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b  
57Route 66
-
VS  
 Wen Zawn 
59The HitcherE1 5b *3
60Maverick
-
VS 4c 4
61Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 4
62Mustang
-
VS 4b 5
63Ipso FactoVS 4c 2
64Annie's ArchE2 5b 3
65KrakenVS 4c *3
66(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a *1
67Genuflex
-
E2 5b 3
68Archway
-
E2 5b *3
69The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **4
70Spider's Web
-
E2 5b ***26
71Billy Bud
-
E6 6b **1
72The 4th DimensionE7 6c ***1
73The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b *16
74Spider WallE1 5a **137
75Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **121
76BritomartisHVS 4c ***659
77Vend-tE2 5b *5
78Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a **4
79SprungHVS 5b *1
80The Trap
-
HVS 4c 24
81Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 5
82Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b *1
83Dislocation DanceE3 5c *4
84UhuruE1 5a 2
85Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 4
86ThorVS 4c 14
87The Unrideable Donky
-
E7  
88Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b ***10
89The Mad Brown
-
E7  
90Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a **2
91T.RexE3 5c ***161
92Metal GuruE4 6a ***9
93Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b ** 
94Rubble
-
E7 1
95The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **8
96The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b ***294
97The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***15
98WenHVS 5a **456
99ZeusE2 5b **76
100If
-
HVS 5a 7
101High Pressure
-
E4 5c *3
102The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***276
103Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 4
104A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***2285
105Dde
-
HVS 5a *51
 Easter Island Gully 
107Watership Down
-
VS 4c  
108SupercrackE3 5c **84
109Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a *3
110Wonderwall
-
E3 6a **47
111I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a **6
112PhagocyteHVS 5b ***68
113Merchant Man
-
E1 5b *21
114Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a *16
115Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 4
116Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
117Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
118Crossover
-
VS 4c 4
119Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 5
120Big GutVS 4c *34
121HombreE1 5b ***114
122Lost In SpaceE4 6a 1
123This Year's Model
-
E3 5c **29
124Praetor
-
E1 5c 8
125Swastika
-
E1 5c *23
126Sex LobsterE3 5c ***10
127BelialHVS 5a *10
128Pequod
-
E3 5c *1
129DragE1 5b *5
130NeutrinoE4 6b 8
131Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 3
132Annihilator
-
E5 6a **5
133Ormuzd
-
E4 6a ***6
134The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b *3
135The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b *3
136Ahriman
-
HVS 5a *8
137Gazebo
-
HVS 5a *11
138Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
139BelvedereE2 5c *1
140Diagonal
-
VS 4c 3
141Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
142Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
143Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
 Main Cliff 
 Hustler Area 
146Gringo
-
E1 5b *16
147The Third Man
-
E2 5b **14
148Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
149The HustlerHVS 5a **40
150The Three MuskateersE5 6a **1
151MestizoE1 5b **55
152MulattoHVS 4c,5a 1
153Piglets Left BootE5 6b * 
154Hud
-
HVS 5a *13
 Phaedra Area 
156Zed
-
HVS 5a  
157Phaedra
-
E1 5c *21
158Horse Above WaterE3 5c 3
159HeroinE1 5b **21
160Dream SellerE1 5b *11
161NightrideE1 5b **116
162Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a **26
163ScavengerHVS 5a ***338
 Needle Area 
165Hyena
-
E3 5c * 
166The AssassinE3 5c **81
167The NeedleE3 5c ***56
 Big Groove Area 
169HypodermicE2 5c **41
170The CamelE4 6a **27
171SyringeE4 6a **62
172Morphine
-
E2 5c *7
173Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c ** 
174Jaborandi
-
E2 5b *8
175Peepshow
-
E1 5b *14
176PentatholHVS 5b **90
177Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *5
178The Big GrooveE3 5c ***209
179The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***21
180Main Wall/Mona ComplexE2 5b ***4
181The Wastelands
-
E4 6a *8
182The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **3
183SebastopolE5 6a ***4
184Food and DrinkE6 6b ***1
185Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***30
186CitadelE5 6b ***63
187RamadanE5 6b ***3
188Hunger
-
E5 6a ***42
189Extinction
-
E8 6b *** 
 Dinosaur Area 
191Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b **14
192MammothE5 6b ***14
193Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b **2
194The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b **7
195DinosaurE5 6a ***39
196AlienE6 6b ***14
197Alien/PositronE6 6b ***1
198Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***10
199ET
-
E6 6b * 
 Positron Area 
201EraserheadE6 6a **14
202PositronE5 6a ***115
203Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***38
204The Rat RaceE3 5c **133
205Bass HunterE4 6a **1
206Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a *12
 Gogarth Area 
208Falls Road
-
E4 5c 3
209Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b ** 
210DevoteeE2 5c *19
211GogarthE1 5b ***761
212Resolution DirectE2 5b ***278
213ResolutionE2 5b *55
 Emulator Area 
215SimulatorVS *57
216Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, **49
217EmulatorE1 5b ***385
218Lardvark
-
E5 6b  
219SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **9
220ImitatorVS 5a *237
221AardvarkE2 6a **206
 Cordon Bleu Area 
223Cordon BleuHVS 5a **131
224RevelationE1 5b *2
225Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b *2
226AchillesE3 5c **40
227Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 5
228Diogenes
-
HVS 5a *42
229SunstrokeE2 5b *30
230InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *3
 Girdle Traverses 
232The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 6
233Trunk LineE4 5c ***6
234The HorizonE4 5c *** 
 Upper Left, Main Cliff 
236Minnesota Fats
-
S 1
237The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
238Devils MarblesE5 6b *1
 Upper Tier 
240Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
241Slow DancerE2 5b 4
242BezelVS 5a *278
243Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 9
244The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **114
245Fail SafeE2 5b **99
246Afreet StreetE5 6a *3
247Energy CrisisE5 6a **50
248The RampHVS 5a **210
249The GauntletHVS 5a **293
250The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 7
251Mill Street JunctionE1 5b 1
252Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 5
253Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
254Broadway
-
HVS 5a 2
255DoomsvilleE2 5b *6
256MayfairE3 5c 4
257Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **233
258Park Lane
-
E1 5b *38
259The StrandE2 5b ***784
260Hyde ParkE4 6b 2
261Manor Park
-
E5 6a 9
262Central ParkHVS 5a **225
263Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 4
264Times Square
-
E1 5a 23
265Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c *18
266Fifth AvenueE1 5c **91
267Shag RockE1 5a *18
268Bitter DaysE1 5b 2
269Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
270CrowbarE1 5b *15
271The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b *8
272Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a *11
273Winking CrackE3 5c **123
274The CruiseE5 6b **26
275Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c * 
276Nomad
-
VS 1
277Campion
-
HVS 5a 2
278Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b *4
279Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *14
280PuffinVS 4b *63
281Force 8
-
HVS 5a *8
282Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **55
283Pantin
-
VS 5a *47
284U.F.O.
-
E2 5b *97
285Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **65
286BarbarossaE7 6b ***17
287BlacklegE5 6a *30
288StrikeE4 6a **164
289The Rift
-
VS 4c *37
290AcidHVS 1
291Dirtigo
-
VS 4c *59
292Psychoandy
-
E6 6c ** 

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