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These details were last updated on 07/Apr/2014

Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 78m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

2.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
27 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
22 kph

2.9mm rain
Sunny periods
14 °C
27 kph

7.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
25 kph

3.5mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c 2
 NORTH STACK WALL  
3End GameVS 4c 6
4Not Fade AwayE4 5c *3
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **2
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **48
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a 38
8The Demons of BoschE7 6b *3
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c *76
10Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *2
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **4
12The Long RunE5 6a **26
13The CadE6 6a ***49
14The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***4
15The ClownE7 6b **9
16The Hollow ManE7 6b ***4
17A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **5
18Flower of EvilE7 6b **5
19The Angle ManE7 6b * 
20Blue PeterE4 5c **60
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *5
22Art GroupieE6 6b *5
23green gilbertE1 5a 32
24The WhipE1 5a 6
25Wall of HorrorsE2 5b 4
26The Big OverhangA2 7
 PROM BUTTRESS  
28BullittHVS 5a  
29PromHVS  
30The DopeHVS 5a  
31HashHVS 5a  
 MORDOR WALL  
33Seal SongE5 6b * 
34Roof RackE7 6c ** 
35MordorHVS 2
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
37Six White BloomersVS 4c 1
38ColditzVS 4c 9
39Mistaken IdentityHVS 4
40FlytrapE2 5b ***41
41In the Next RoomE3 5c * 
42Bury My KneeE5 6b * 
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a * 
44The Porcelain ArenaE6 6b * 
45The Shadowy World of the NemotodesE5 6b ** 
46The Ultraviolet ExterminatorE7 6b *** 
47ArachnidE5 6a 2
48Holyhead RevisitedE5 6a * 
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a * 
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE3 5c **9
51The HitcherE1 5b *1
52Jug PatrolE1 5b 1
53Touching ClothE1 5b  
54Oijee WallE1 5b 1
55Point BlankVS 5a  
56SkippyE1 5b 1
57The Walls of JerichoE1 5b  
58Route 66VS  
 WEN ZAWN  
60SkippyE1 5b  
61Oijee WallE1 5b  
62The HitcherHVS 5a  
63Jug PatrolE1 5b  
64MaverickVS 4c 3
65Mr SealVS 4c 3
66MustangVS 4b 2
67Annie's ArchE2 5b 1
68KrakenVS 4c *2
69(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip LockE4 6a *1
70GenuflexE2 5b 3
71ArchwayE2 5b *3
72The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **2
73Spider's WebE2 5b ***16
74Billy BudE6 6b ** 
75The BluebottleE2 5b *9
76Spider WallHVS 5a **103
77Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **92
78BritomartisHVS 4c ***426
79Vend-tE2 5b *4
80Gobbler's AreteE3 6a **3
81The TrapHVS 4c 17
82Minute ManHVS 5a 5
83Evidently ChickentownE5 6b * 
84Dislocation DanceE3 5c *3
85Boogie WoogieVS 4b 3
86ThorVS 4c 11
87The Unrideable DonkyE7  
88Conan the LibrarianE7 6b ***7
89The Mad BrownE7  
90Games Climbers PlayE5 6a **2
91T.RexE3 5c ***83
92Metal GuruE4 6a ***2
93Hardback ThesaurusE7 6b ** 
94RubbleE7 1
95The Concrete ChimneyHVS 5a ***235
96The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***2
97WenHVS 5a **310
98ZeusE2 5b *58
99IfHVS 5a 6
100High PressureE4 5c *3
101The Quartz IcicleE2 5b **208
102Echo BeachE2 5b 3
103A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***1006
104DdeHVS 5a *44
 EASTER ISLAND GULLY  
106Watership DownVS 4c  
107SupercrackE3 5c ***69
108Exit GrooveHVS 5a *3
109WonderwallE3 6a **44
110I Wonder WhyE5 6a **2
111PhagocyteHVS 5a **57
112Merchant ManE1 5b *18
113Tape WormHVS 5a *13
114Small GutHVS 5a 2
115FlukeHVS 5b 1
116Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
117CrossoverVS 4c 2
118Rock Island LineHVS 5a 3
119Big GutVS 4c 27
120HombreE1 5b ***80
121Lost In SpaceE4 6a 1
122This Year's ModelE3 5c **27
123PraetorE1 5c 8
124SwastikaE1 5c *18
125Sex LobsterE3 5c ***7
126BelialHVS 5a *6
127PequodE3 5c *1
128DragE1 5b *1
129NeutrinoE4 6b 8
130Exit ChimneyVS 4c 2
131AnnihilatorE5 6a **5
132OrmuzdE4 6a ***3
133The Red SofaE5 6b *1
134The Ancient MarinerE5 6b *1
135AhrimanHVS 5a *7
136GazeboHVS 5a *10
137PerpendicularVS 4b 2
138BelvedereE2 5c *1
139DiagonalVS 4c 3
140DiatomVS 4c 10
141MicronHVS 5a 2
142MicrodotHVS 5a 2
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN CLIFF  
 HUSTLER AREA  
145GringoE1 5b *13
146The Third ManE2 5b **12
147Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
148The HustlerHVS 4c **34
149The Three MuskateersE5 6a ** 
150MestizoE1 5b **37
151MulattoHVS 4c,5a 1
152Piglets Left BootE5 6b * 
153HudHVS 5a *13
 PHAEDRA AREA  
155ZedHVS 5a  
156PhaedraE1 5c *18
157Horse Above WaterE3 5c 3
158HeroinE1 5b **10
159Dream SellerE1 5b *5
160NightrideE1 5b **92
161Scavenger DirectHVS 5a **18
162ScavengerHVS 5a ***196
 NEEDLE AREA  
164HyenaE3 5c * 
165The AssassinE3 5c **58
166The NeedleE3 5c ***46
 BIG GROOVE AREA  
168HypodermicE2 5c **32
169The CamelE4 6a **23
170SyringeE4 6a **50
171MorphineE2 5c *4
172JaborandiE2 5b *7
173PeepshowE1 5b *12
174PentatholHVS 5a **77
175Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *3
176The Big GrooveE3 5c ***174
177The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***16
178The WastelandsE4 6a *6
179The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **2
180SebastopolE5 6a ***3
181Food and DrinkE6 6b ***1
182Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***20
183CitadelE5 6b ***48
184RamadanE5 6b ***2
185HungerE5 6a ***31
186ExtinctionE8 6b *** 
 DINOSAUR AREA  
188Mammoth DirectE6 6b **12
189MammothE5 6b ***8
190Wall of FossilsE6 6b ** 
191The Big SleepE6 6b **7
192DinosaurE5 6a ***30
193AlienE6 6b ***10
194Alien/PositronE6 6b *** 
195Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***8
196ETE6 6b * 
 POSITRON AREA  
198EraserheadE6 6a **8
199PositronE5 6a ***85
200Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***23
201The Rat RaceE3 5c *97
202Bubbly Situation BluesE4 6a *9
 GOGARTH AREA  
204Falls RoadE4 5c 3
205Return to GarthgogE5 6a/b ** 
206DevoteeE2 5c *18
207GogarthE1 5b **499
208Resolution DirectE2 5b ***174
209ResolutionE2 5b *45
 EMULATOR AREA  
211SimulatorVS *42
212StimulatorE3 5c,5b, **41
213EmulatorE1 5b ***283
214LardvarkE5 6b  
215SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **6
216ImitatorVS 4c *179
217AardvarkE2 6a **165
 CORDON BLEU AREA  
219Cordon BleuHVS 5b **100
220RevelationE1 5b *1
221Coming on StrongE6 6b *2
222AchillesE3 5c **28
223Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 2
224DiogenesHVS 5a *33
225SunstrokeE2 5b *23
226InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *1
 GIRDLE TRAVERSES  
228The Girdle TraverseHVS 4c 3
229Trunk LineE4 5c ***5
230The HorizonE4 5c *** 
 UPPER LEFT, MAIN CLIFF  
232Minnesota FatsS 1
233The FinisherE1 5b 1
234Devils MarblesE5 6b *1
 UPPER TIER  
236SulcusVS 5a 4
237Slow DancerE2 5b 4
238BezelVS 5a *222
239CartwheelE2 5b 9
240The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **75
241Fail SafeE2 5b **79
242Energy CrisisE5 6a ***32
243The RampHVS 5a **179
244The GauntletHVS 5a **236
245The CracksHVS 5a 7
246Amphitheatre WallHVS 4c 4
247Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 1
248BroadwayHVS 5a 1
249DoomsvilleE2 5b *3
250MayfairE3 5c 1
251Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5b **174
252Park LaneE1 5b *29
253The StrandE2 5b ***480
254Hyde ParkE4 6b 1
255Manor ParkE5 6a 8
256Central ParkHVS 5a **177
257Street SurvivorE2 5c 3
258Times SquareE1 5a 15
259Tequila SunriseE2 5c *16
260Fifth AvenueE1 5c **65
261Shag RockE1 5a *15
262Bitter DaysE1 5b 1
263Black SpotHVS 5a 1
264CrowbarE1 5b *13
265The HorrorshowE5 6b *8
266Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's ChestE5 6a *8
267Winking CrackE3 5c ***91
268The CruiseE5 6b **18
269Hang Ten (in the Green Room)E6 6c * 
270CampionHVS 5a 2
271Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *9
272PuffinVS 4b *47
273Force 8HVS 5a *7
274Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **35
275PantinVS 5a *36
276U.F.O.E2 5b *73
277Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c *47
278BarbarossaE6 6b ***13
279BlacklegE5 6a *21
280StrikeE3 6a **128
281The RiftVS 4c *26
282DirtigoVS 4c *43
283PsychoandyE6 6c ** 
284NomadVS 1
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Access notes
Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Reeves

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10

Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07

one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05

Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02

Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02