Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 78m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Access notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.


Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.


For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH STACK WALL  
2Bank Holiday BypassVS 4c 2
3End GameVS 4c 6
4Not Fade AwayE4 5c *3
5Pulling for TwoE6 6b **2
6Talking HeadsE2 5b **67
7Nice 'n SleazyE1 5a *47
8The Demons of BoschE7 6b *3
9South Sea BubbleE3 5c **91
10Stroke of the FiendE7 6b *2
11The Long Run DirectE6 6a **4
12The Long RunE5 6a **29
13The CadE6 6a ***56
14The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***4
15The ClownE7 6b **8
16The Hollow ManE7 6b ***4
17A Wreath of Deadly NightshadeE7 6b **5
18Flower of EvilE7 6b **5
19The Angle ManE7 6b * 
20Blue PeterE4 5c **75
21Sarah GreenE4 5c *5
22Art GroupieE6 6b *5
23green gilbertE1 5a *43
24The WhipE1 5a 6
25Wall of HorrorsE3 5b 7
26The Big OverhangA2 7
 PROM BUTTRESS  
28BullittHVS 5a  
29PromHVS  
30The DopeHVS 5a  
31HashHVS 5a  
 MORDOR WALL  
33Seal SongE5 6b * 
34Roof RackE7 6c ** 
35MordorHVS 2
36Mordor NewyddE3 5c  
37Six White BloomersVS 4c 1
38ColditzVS 4c 9
39Mistaken IdentityHVS 4
40FlytrapE2 5b ***48
41In the Next RoomE3 5c *1
42Bury My KneeE5 6b * 
43Flytrap RoofE5 6a * 
44The Porcelain ArenaE6 6b * 
45The Shadowy World of the NemotodesE5 6b ** 
46The Ultraviolet ExterminatorE7 6b *** 
47ArachnidE5 6a 3
48Holyhead RevisitedE5 6a *1
49Dai Lemming!E4 6a *1
5020,000 Leagues Under the SeaE4 6a ***11
51Jug PatrolE1 5b 1
52Touching ClothE1 5b  
53Oijee WallE1 5b 1
54Point BlankVS 5a  
55SkippyE1 5b 1
56The Walls of JerichoE1 5b  
57Route 66VS  
 WEN ZAWN  
59The HitcherE1 5b *3
60MaverickVS 4c 4
61Mr SealVS 4c 4
62MustangVS 4b 3
63Ipso FactoVS 4c 1
64Annie's ArchE2 5b 3
65KrakenVS 4c *2
66(Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip LockE4 6a *1
67GenuflexE2 5b 3
68ArchwayE2 5b *3
69The Boston StrugglerE5 6b **2
70Spider's WebE2 5b ***23
71Billy BudE6 6b ** 
72The BluebottleE2 5b *13
73Spider WallE1 5a **118
74Toiler on th SeaE2 5b **108
75BritomartisHVS 4c ***503
76Vend-tE2 5b *5
77Gobbler's AreteE3 6a **4
78SprungHVS 5b *1
79The TrapHVS 4c 24
80Minute ManHVS 5a 5
81Evidently ChickentownE5 6b * 
82Dislocation DanceE3 5c *3
83UhuruE1 5a 1
84Boogie WoogieVS 4b 3
85ThorVS 4c 12
86The Unrideable DonkyE7  
87Conan the LibrarianE7 6b ***7
88The Mad BrownE7  
89Games Climbers PlayE5 6a **2
90T.RexE3 5c ***98
91Metal GuruE4 6a ***2
92Hardback ThesaurusE7 6b ** 
93RubbleE7 1
94The Concrete Chimney Direct FinishE1 5a **7
95The Concrete ChimneyHVS 5b ***273
96The Concrete DreamHVS 5b ***10
97WenHVS 5a **363
98ZeusE2 5b **64
99IfHVS 5a 7
100High PressureE4 5c *3
101The Quartz IcicleE2 5b ***251
102Echo BeachE2 5b 3
103A Dream of White HorsesHVS 4c ***1212
104DdeHVS 5a *48
 EASTER ISLAND GULLY  
106Watership DownVS 4c  
107SupercrackE3 5c **79
108Exit GrooveHVS 5a *2
109WonderwallE3 6a **45
110I Wonder WhyE5 6a **5
111PhagocyteHVS 5b ***61
112Merchant ManE1 5b *20
113Tape WormHVS 5a *14
114Small GutHVS 5a 3
115FlukeHVS 5b 1
116Rotten GutHVS 5a 1
117CrossoverVS 4c 2
118Rock Island LineHVS 5a 3
119Big GutVS 4c *31
120HombreE1 5b ***104
121Lost In SpaceE4 6a 1
122This Year's ModelE3 5c **29
123PraetorE1 5c 8
124SwastikaE1 5c *21
125Sex LobsterE3 5c ***7
126BelialHVS 5a *8
127PequodE3 5c *1
128DragE1 5b *5
129NeutrinoE4 6b 8
130Exit ChimneyVS 4c 3
131AnnihilatorE5 6a **5
132OrmuzdE4 6a ***4
133The Red SofaE5 6b *1
134The Ancient MarinerE5 6b *1
135AhrimanHVS 5a *7
136GazeboHVS 5a *10
137PerpendicularVS 4b 2
138BelvedereE2 5c *1
139DiagonalVS 4c 3
140DiatomVS 4c 10
141MicronHVS 5a 2
142MicrodotHVS 5a 2
 MAIN CLIFF  
 HUSTLER AREA  
145GringoE1 5b *14
146The Third ManE2 5b **13
147Hustler corner crack directE2 5b * 
148The HustlerHVS 5a **36
149The Three MuskateersE5 6a ** 
150MestizoE1 5b **49
151MulattoHVS 4c,5a 1
152Piglets Left BootE5 6b * 
153HudHVS 5a *13
 PHAEDRA AREA  
155ZedHVS 5a  
156PhaedraE1 5c *19
157Horse Above WaterE3 5c 3
158HeroinE1 5b **15
159Dream SellerE1 5b *9
160NightrideE1 5b **106
161Scavenger DirectHVS 5a **23
162ScavengerHVS 5a ***237
 NEEDLE AREA  
164HyenaE3 5c * 
165The AssassinE3 5c **74
166The NeedleE3 5c ***53
 BIG GROOVE AREA  
168HypodermicE2 5c **36
169The CamelE4 6a **25
170SyringeE4 6a **58
171MorphineE2 5c *6
172JaborandiE2 5b *8
173PeepshowE1 5b *14
174PentatholHVS 5b **83
175Puzzle Me QuickE5 6a *4
176The Big GrooveE3 5c ***197
177The Big Groove DirectE4 5c ***20
178Main Wall/Mona ComplexE2 5b ***3
179The WastelandsE4 6a *7
180The Tet OffensiveE5 6b **2
181SebastopolE5 6a ***3
182Food and DrinkE6 6b ***1
183Graduation CeremonyE4 6a ***22
184CitadelE5 6b ***57
185RamadanE5 6b ***2
186HungerE5 6a ***38
187ExtinctionE8 6b *** 
 DINOSAUR AREA  
189Mammoth DirectE6 6b **12
190MammothE5 6b ***11
191Wall of FossilsE6 6b ** 
192The Big SleepE6 6b **7
193DinosaurE5 6a ***37
194AlienE6 6b ***11
195Alien/PositronE6 6b *** 
196Skinhead MoonstompE6 6b ***8
197ETE6 6b * 
 POSITRON AREA  
199EraserheadE6 6a **11
200PositronE5 6a ***100
201Ordinary RouteE5 6a ***25
202The Rat RaceE3 5c **113
203Bass HunterE4 6a **1
204Bubbly Situation BluesE4 6a *10
 GOGARTH AREA  
206Falls RoadE4 5c 3
207Return to GarthgogE5 6a/b ** 
208DevoteeE2 5c *19
209GogarthE1 5b ***589
210Resolution DirectE2 5b ***220
211ResolutionE2 5b *52
 EMULATOR AREA  
213SimulatorVS *48
214StimulatorE3 5c,5b, **47
215EmulatorE1 5b ***339
216LardvarkE5 6b  
217SeeyerlaterHVS 5b **6
218ImitatorVS 5a *215
219AardvarkE2 6a **189
 CORDON BLEU AREA  
221Cordon BleuHVS 5a **120
222RevelationE1 5b *2
223Coming on StrongE6 6b *2
224AchillesE3 5c **36
225Direct Start to DiogenesHVS 5a 4
226DiogenesHVS 5a *36
227SunstrokeE2 5b *27
228InterpolatorHVS 5a4a *3
 GIRDLE TRAVERSES  
230The Girdle TraverseHVS 5b 5
231Trunk LineE4 5c ***6
232The HorizonE4 5c *** 
 UPPER LEFT, MAIN CLIFF  
234Minnesota FatsS 1
235The FinisherE1 5b 1
236Devils MarblesE5 6b *1
 UPPER TIER  
238SulcusVS 5a 4
239Slow DancerE2 5b 4
240BezelVS 5a *256
241CartwheelE2 5b 9
242The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **98
243Fail SafeE2 5b **91
244Energy CrisisE5 6a **37
245The RampHVS 5a **199
246The GauntletHVS 5a **274
247The CracksHVS 5a 7
248Amphitheatre WallHVS 4c 4
249Transatlantic CrossingE2 5c 2
250BroadwayHVS 5a 2
251DoomsvilleE2 5b *6
252MayfairE3 5c 2
253Park Lane/DoomsvilleE2 5c **199
254Park LaneE1 5b *34
255The StrandE2 5b ***582
256Hyde ParkE4 6b 2
257Manor ParkE5 6a 9
258Central ParkHVS 5a **207
259Street SurvivorE2 5c 4
260Times SquareE1 5a 21
261Tequila SunriseE2 5c *17
262Fifth AvenueE1 5c **82
263Shag RockE1 5a *16
264Bitter DaysE1 5b 1
265Black SpotHVS 5a 1
266CrowbarE1 5b *14
267The HorrorshowE5 6b *8
268Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's ChestE5 6a *11
269Winking CrackE3 5c **111
270The CruiseE5 6b **23
271Hang Ten (in the Green Room)E6 6c * 
272NomadVS 1
273CampionHVS 5a 2
274Puffin Direct StartHVS 5b *1
275Puffin Direct/Force 8 combinationHVS 5b *11
276PuffinVS 4b *58
277Force 8HVS 5a *7
278Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **47
279PantinVS 5a *41
280U.F.O.E2 5b *91
281Bloody ChimneyHVS 4c **60
282BarbarossaE7 6b ***15
283BlacklegE5 6a *26
284StrikeE4 6a **151
285The RiftVS 4c *31
286DirtigoVS 4c *53
287PsychoandyE6 6c ** 
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02