Climbs 163
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

Pete Robins attempting Psyche and Burn (E6) Tremadog © Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Many routes in the low Extreme grades, including the classic Silly Arete (E3 5c) as well as plenty for the VS leader to go at. Very little below VS, but the other Tremadog crags have plenty of those.

Approach notes

Often hard to identify routes from the road due to trees. Walk off the top rather than abseiling, to save the trees.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
don't try to walk off to the right looking up. chest high brambles and no path. no path to the left from falcon/vulcan area so abseil is the only viable option for descent.
rurp - 16/Oct/12
DO NOT abseil off if possible/practical. It's lazy, antisocial and erodes the trees.
victim of mathematics - 03/Sep/12
abseil off if possible to prevent erosion of the paths
cankerblossom - 02/Sep/12
I don't believe this is Dolerite. More likely to be Micro-gabbro with Mica schist at the base. Dolerite is a term over used in outdated surveys.
Ian Jones - 23/Nov/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Craig y Tarw 
2Forest View's Shattered Cracks
-
S 1
 Pant Ifan Upper Tier 
4K.M.A.HS 4a *446
5MadogVS 4c **636
6MyomancyHVS 5b **298
7Falling Block CrackS 4a *820
8MistookVS 4c *465
9GwyneddVS 4b *362
10Rammer's RouteVS 5a *379
11Marath
-
HVD 133
12MTNS 4a *720
13Central AreteS 184
14Central StaircaseVD 361
15Bulging WallHS 4a *540
16Quatre Fois DirectVS 4c **704
17MeirionyddE1 6a **288
18Tu'ShaeHVS 5a 31
19Unnamed Severe In GuidebookS 8
20Girdle Traverse Of The Upper Tier
-
VD 1
21GoopE4 6b 4
 Badger's Buttress 
23Badger's Buttress
-
VD 3
 Two Face Buttress 
25Next of Kin / Drug Test
-
HVS 5b 2
26Ringwraith
-
E3 6a 2
27Helsinki Wall
-
E1 5b *166
28Olympic SlabVS 4c **182
29Blade RunnerE4 6a *22
30The Olympiad
-
E2 5c 9
31Orodruin
-
E2 6a **8
32Surreal
-
E6 6b **1
33The Unreal Finish
-
E6 6b *** 
34Surreal McCoy
-
E6 6b ** 
35Plastic NerveE2 5c **68
36StromboliHVS 5a **322
37The Creature Variation
-
E1 5b 1
38Hitler's ButtockE5 6b **8
39Sexual SalamiE5 6b ***28
40Cardiac AreteE4 6a ***70
41The Agony and the Ecstacy
-
E5 6b *2
 Fear Buttress 
43Rhywbeth Bach
-
VS 4b 3
44Mab y Bwthyn
-
E1 5b 2
45Saffron Sunset
-
HVS 5b 2
46Fear
-
E3 6a 2
47Mab y Mynydd
-
E2 5c 2
 Eifionydd Buttress 
49Tam Lin
-
E2 5c 2
50Fine and MellowE1 5b * 
51Electric Edge
-
E2 5c *5
52Mons Meg
-
HVS 5a 1
53Huntley
-
VS 4c 2
54Millipede
-
HVS 4c  
55Eifionydd Wall
-
HVS 5b 6
56Strempan
-
E2 5b 1
 Pen Y Ci Buttress 
58R.I.P.
-
VS 4c 1
59Curved Air
-
E4 5c *4
60Pengo's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 2
61Cerberus
-
E1 5b 1
62Rock 'n' Roll
-
HS  
63Basin Street
-
E3 6a 1
64Oak Tree Wall
-
VS 2
 Scratch Area 
66Tea Time Arete
-
VS 5a 12
67Ave Atque ValeS 17
68Krakatoa
-
S 10
69Gwrywgydiwr
-
E1 5c 3
70Terraqua
-
E2 6a 8
71Strumpet Blower
-
E1 5c  
72Etna
-
S 12
73Pear Tree Variation
-
VS 4c 32
74Silver Crow
-
E1 5b 8
75The Struggler
-
E2 5c *13
76BorchgrevinckS *60
77Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's PeutereyS **182
78Groove of Horror
-
E5 6a **7
79StrapiomboHVS 5b ***92
80Erebus
-
E3 5c **18
81No Holds Barred
-
E6 6c **1
82Tall Dwarfs
-
E3 6a *9
83Poor Man's PeutereyS 4a ***1568
84Great Western
-
VS 4c *226
85Monkey Puzzle
-
E1 5b 83
86Monkey Puzzle/PincushionE1 5b **15
87The Quakermen
-
E2 5c 31
88Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap
-
E2 5c 85
89PincushionE2 6a **296
90Silly Billy
-
E2 5c 9
91Silly AreteE3 5c ***371
92FingerlickerE4 6a ***140
93Fingerlicker Direct Finish
-
E6 6b ** 
94BarbarianE1 5b ***602
95ScratchVS 4c **967
96Mangoletsi
-
E3 6a **52
97Mangoletsi Direct Start
-
E2 5c 20
98Mangoletsi Superdirect
-
E5 6b **1
99Mangoletsi The Original WayE3 6a *21
100Spare RibE4 6a ***29
101Itch
-
E2 6a *112
102Rhych dy DinE2 5b **44
103Scratch AreteHVS 5a ***1317
104Ivy Crack
-
E1 5b 19
105Slabby Flues
-
S 1
106Peripherique (Girdle Traverse of Peuterey Buttress)
-
E1 5b **6
107Laser Crack
-
E1 5b **22
108Blobby Goes Ballistic
-
E1 5b 1
109Integral
-
E2 5c *27
110Integral Direct
-
E3 5c **19
111Limited Edition
-
E5 6b 1
112The Toit
-
E4 6b 4
113The Sandbagger
-
E5 6b 1
114The Dune Child
-
E4 6b 1
 Avalanche Buttress 
116FandangoE1 5b 20
117Lucretia
-
VS 3
118Lakeland Gem
-
VS 1
119Whistling Rufus
-
HVS  
120Clown of Thorns
-
E1 5b 2
121Technical Master
-
E2 5c **10
122WandaVS 4b 4
 Strangeways Buttress 
124Rapunzel
-
VS 5a 1
125Attractive Mature Lady (Will Visit)
-
E2 5b  
126Bucket RiderE1 5b 8
127AlcatrazVS 4c **88
128Hey!
-
E1 5b 8
129Holloway
-
HVS 5a 95
130Back to Nature
-
E3 6a  
131Crocadillo
-
E2 5b *31
132Crocadillo Variation
-
E2 5b **5
133Strangeways
-
VS 4c 10
134Holloway/CrocodilloE2 5b **4
135Agoraphobia
-
HVS 5a  
 Hogmanay Buttress 
137Life in a Day
-
E3 5c  
138Broadmoor
-
E1 5b  
139Psyche 'n' BurnE6 6c ***4
140VulcanE4 6a ***150
141FalconE1 5b ***353
142Sonic Sinbin
-
E4 6a *2
143PippikinE4 6a ***28
144Scarecrow
-
E3 5c *17
145Scarecrow Direct Start
-
E4 6a  
146The Steal
-
E4 6b 1
147Steelfingers
-
E2 5c 27
148Raven's Nest Wall
-
E2 5b 4
149Dead Rooks Don't Speak
-
E3 5b  
150Rookery Nook
-
HVS 5a  
151Gothic Grooves
-
E1 5b 9
152W.O.B.
-
HVS 4c 10
153Stormy Weather
-
E3 6a  
154Hogmanay HangoverHS 4b **146
155Hogmanay Hangover Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 15
156Omerta Crack
-
E3 6a 1
157Hogmanay Girdle
-
E3 5c *1
158Valerian
-
E1 3
 Boulders 
160CircusV7 **2
161FunfareV3 1
162Bored Sillyf5+ ***1
163Jungle Hand Jivef6C 1
164Full Gasf6A+ *1
165Holler For The Dollarf6B+ ***1
166Greenbackf6C *1
167Nickles N Dime'sf6A+ 1
168Le Mansf6A *1
169Easy Peelerf2 1
170Mental Magnetf6A+ 1
171ArÍte Eliminatef6A 1
172Independence Dayf6B *1
173Arctic CircleVS 1
174K.M.A *4a **1
175Mangoletsi / Itch Combination *E1 5b **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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