UKC

Climbs 337
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 183m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Brian Rossiter enjoys the last rays of winter sun. © nigel baker

Crag features

The short crags of Giggleswick South conceal themselves exremely well amongst dense tree cover, and offer only tempting glimpses of grey limestone even in the middle of winter. The climbing at Giggleswick South is reasonable with a choice of styles from the newly developed easier grade sport climbs on the Lower South Buttress, to the limited number of short but rewarding traditional lines more often than not on superb rock located on the Upper Crag. For those bent on difficulty the G-Spot has a micro classic.

Approach notes

Giggleswick South is split into two areas - South Upper (plus the G-spot) and South Lower. Each area has its own parking and approach path as set out below. All approaches are from parking pull-offs located on the road that runs west out of Settle towards the A65 (Ingleton amd Kendal).

No Access Issues

Formal Access was agreed subject to certain conditions in 2008 and a joint YDNPA/NE/BMC and Giggleswick School information notice board is now displayed on the lower access path. The conditions refer mainly to the sensitive nature of the site as a SSSI and the requirement to seek permission before anymore new route activity takes place that may involve further removal of vegetation

Approach to Dressage buttress should read - "It is best reached from the left-hand (looking in) end of the Upper Crag by descending and crossing a drystone wall and then taking a path rightwards (FACING OUT) to below the buttress. It is also easily reached from Sector Limelight by heading up to below the Upper Crag and following the approach from there." The path also connects from Dressage all the way to Tom Thumb and Stone Cold buttresses.
lionel - 19/May/23
large, teetering blocks above climbs on Dressage - level with lower-offs
Little B - 18/Aug/21
Beware -a large block is jammed / suspended in the yew tree of Richard of York (Sector Bonhomie)
lionel - 06/Apr/21
There is a wasp's nest on the first ledge of Atomic Kitten in the Garden Wall (just above the second bolt) - so avoid this as you'll pull right into it. Also affects Over the Garden Wall.
ebf - 21/Apr/19
Get over it. All that scree boulders around the bottom of the crag were once part of the crag. Its bloody limestone. If you don't want to climb loose rock get on the grit. Then you'll be moaning about the sand!!
Grit Wraith - 11/Apr/15
Loose rocks on cygnet chewer before the third bolt. A lot of loose stuff was coming down this afternoon, very busy up there.
thepinkwaffle - 06/May/13
Sector Swallows Nest is very loose, all the routes we climbed had a lot of suspect rock. A big block slid off the the bottom of The White Spider, landed 6 inches from where I was belaying.
1poundSOCKS - 26/Jun/11
Not a rockfall in the true meaning of the word - more a prolonged H and S session apparently ;-)
Bulls Crack - 13/Apr/11
There has been a big rockfall in the area around The Third Man. There is still some loose material waiting to fall so be careful crossing under this area.
Bob - 26/Sep/10
Apart from the Swan and Laughter buttresses plus the odd route here and there..dire. Short, loose and worthless sums up a lot/most of the routes.
Bulls Crack - 13/May/10
a great crag with a big veriation of routes when it sunny it gets very warm but is shelterd from the wind
Rob - 01/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

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