Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone

Concentrating hard on Supercool © Kevin Avery

Crag features

The gaping mouth of Gordale is a sight to leave most climbers awestruck on first aquaintance. The combination of its narrowing overhanging walls and the constant drone of the wind and waterfall make it a place where only familiarity tempers the apprehension. However, once you are acquainted with the place, the climbing experience is easily equal to its more popular counterparts at Kilnsey and Malham, in fact many will find it an even more compelling place to climb be it on a gripping ascent of an adventurous traditional line or doing battle with one of its huge, sustained, forearm-bursting and rope-stretching sport pitches.

Approach notes

One of the biggest problems at Gordale is the ever-present danger of rockfall. More often than not rockfall is natural erosion or caused by sheep but that may not stop people blaming climbers. There is little we can do about this but we can make sure that, whenever we do climb here, we take the greatest of care not to dislodge rock onto walkers below. Be very aware that any falling rock could be fatal for those below and even a small incident may result in a total climbing ban here.

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Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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It is amazing, a good walk. It is very difficult to climb but my dad mum, and me got my 6 year old sister and my 75 year old granny up there so it can't be that bad!
ryony nicholson - 19/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper Left Wing 
2The Greaser
HS 4a 2
3Juggy CornerD 6
4Grey CrackMVS 4b 3
5Dinner CrackS 4
6Old RakeM 3
7The CrescentS 3
8Slanting Scoop
VD 5
9Sheep's CrackHVS 5a 1
10Keyhole Ridge
HS 4a *5
11Sheep's GrooveVS 4c 1
12Tufted Duck
E2 5c **1
 Lower Left Wing 
HS 4b *3
15StingoVS 5a 1
16The Riddler
VS 4c *4
17The SpinnerHVS 6a 1
18Tunnel VisionE4 6a *2
19NonsuchE2 5c 1
20The Bulger
HVS 5a 4
21DeceptionS 10
22Parallel Cracks
HS 4a 1
23The EliminateVS 4c **31
VS 4c *15
25Black KnightHVS 5a 4
26Overhanging Flake
HVS 5a 7
HVS 5c 2
28The Gaffer
VS 5a 1
29Narrowing CrackVS 4c *2
30Hang the JokerE2 5c *1
31Paradise Street
HS 4b *7
32Corner Tree Climb
VD 4
33Hidden CornerS 2
34The NorperE1 5b4b 2
35Court Jester
E2 5c **9
36The Lyncher
E2 5c ***8
E1 5b **8
VS 4c 3
39The ComebackVS 4c *2
40King TutVS 1
 Face Route Area 
42Promises, Promises6a *51
43Special NeedsE4 5c 1
44I'm Forever Threatening6c *55
45Nothing to DeclareE5 6a **13
46Decree NisiE6 6b ** 
47Nothing to PrepareE5 6a *1
48A New UndergroundE6 6a * 
49Concrete JungleE6 6b **4
50The Cement GardenE6 6c ***7
51The Perfect Mirage8a ***2
52Mirage8a ***2
53Face RouteE3 6a ***111
54Living Dead ExtensionsE5 6a **4
55Mossdale TripE6 6a **5
56Sweet HereafterE7 6c  
57Jenny WrenE5 6a *23
 Rebel Area 
59RevoltE5 6b **3
60RebelE5 6b ***10
61The CauseE5 6b **5
62The Good, The Bad And The UglyE7 6b ***1
63The UnforgivenE6 6b ** 
64What Grot GotE8 6c  
65Three WishesE5 6a **1
66What God Wants7b 2
67Dead Man WalkingE6 ** 
68King RatE5 6c **1
69Block And Decker6b+ 6
70The Hungerford Massacre7a+ 2
71Nowt for Nearly6c+ 1
72MeridianE6 6b ***1
73Girdle traverse of the left wall
E2 5c **6
 Backwater Buttress 
75The Black BottomE1  
76The Missing LinkHVS  
77Hoodlum Priest7b **9
78Ventura7b **5
79Pedestal Wall
E1 5b *3
80Pedestal CrackHS 4b *9
81Naked7b+ **7
82Wise CrackE3 5c *4
83Featuristic7a *20
84What Do You Want Me To Do With It7a+ *12
85Don't Matter Just Don't Bite It7a+ *8
86Erotic Nightmare7b+ 1
 Kaarst Buttress 
88Wire Wound
E2 5c 2
89Crossley Yarns6c *29
90Red Rhinoceros6c *31
91Liang Shan Po7a+ *2
92Palming Pavorotti's Peach7a+ 8
93Horny6c 3
94Soft Option6b+ 15
 The Grotto 
96Shallow Water Sport6c+ *1
97Flood Gates7a 1
98Water Margin7b+ *3
99Revel In Your Time7b+ *2
100Green Lipped Mussels7c **6
 Waterfall Buttress 
102Alien Water KissE6 6b ** 
103Darkness BeckonsE6 6b *** 
104MeggazonesE4 **5
105Slapstick7c 1
106Who's For Tea7a+ 4
107In The Red7b+ 1
108Crash Test Dummy7a+ 6
109Green Carpet6b *20
110Moulin Rouge6c *9
111ShadowlandsE2 5c **12
112The Twilight Zone6b+ 5
HVS 5a 1
 darkness & Light Area 
115DarknessE2 5c  
E6 6b 2
117Prince of DarknessE5 6a **10
118LightE2 5c **45
119CabaretE1 5b ***23
120NightrideE2 5c **2
 Deliverance Buttress 
122DelivertoadE6 6a **5
123LiberationE5 6b **1
124DeliveranceE5 6b ***19
125RedemptionE5 6a **6
126Unknown PleasuresE5 6b ** 
127DolstoneE4 5c 1
128West Face Route
VS 4b *2
 Solstice Wall 
130Burning DaylightE6 6a *2
131SolsticeE5 6a **17
132The Thrivin'E4 6a *11
E5 6a 2
134Ward 107a 6
135Chemistry SetE6 6b 2
136Ocean Heart
6c **9
137Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig6c+ 6
138Pillar and Roof Route7b+ 1
 Cave Route Area 
140Ivy GrooveE3 5c *15
141A Squire to Madness
E6 6a * 
142A Squire to Madness - Variation StartE6 6a **1
143Comedy of ErrorsE5 6a **9
144Revival7b+ ***36
145Hang onto your ego7c  
146Revitalised7b+ ***4
147DeconstructionE6 6b 3
148Masochism TangoE6 6c **2
149Come Dancing
E3 5c 2
150Strictly Ballroom7a *92
151Nothing Lasts Forever7b+ *25
152Strictly Masochism7c+ ***6
153Strictly Cool7c+ ***6
154Huecool8b **6
155Supercool8a+ ***40
156A Grand Day Out7c+ ***1
157Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version)7c+ 6c ***18
158Cave Route Left-hand7c+ ***16
159Cave Eliminate7c+ **7
160Cave Route RightE6 6b ***49
161Cave Route (original)
A2 ***2
162Defcon 38a ***22
163Last Dog7b *105
164Dogpoint7b+ ***38
165Pierrepoint7c+ ***42
166Pierrepoint original start7c *1
167Diminished Responsibility7c ** 
168Hangman Start7c+ * 
169HangmanE6 6b ***3
170The NooseE7 6c  
171Trubble8a+ *6
172The Inca Trail7c *6
173Well Hung7b ***12
174Gallows Humour7a **21
175Ruth Ellis7c  
176Bite It And Believe It
E6 6b **3
177BlissE7 6b ***1
178Through Trip
 Upper Right Wing 
180Lucifer Sam
MVS 4b 1
VD 2
182Willy Nilly
S 1
183Boy WonderVS 4c 1
VD 4
185Obtuse Corner
S 6
186Ambiguous AreteS 1
VD 2
188Walnut Scoop
MVS 4b *3
189December Dodos
S 1
S 3
191Faked Cards
VS 4c 2
192The JokerVS 4c 2
193The Knave
HVS 5a 2
194The JugglerHVS 5a 3
S *9
196Cat Was WrongHS 1
197Pinnacle CrackD *1
S 9
199Jenny Spinner
MVS 4b 2
200Two Flake Climb
HS 4a 3
201Little Flake Climb
VS 4c *3
202DisappointmentHVS 5a 1
HVS 5a 1
204TychoVS 4c 1
MS 2
206The Corner
S 2
207The WallHS 1
209Gordale Scar Waterfall (Summer)1 19
210Gordale Waterfall Right1 **5
 Winter Climbs 
212Gordale waterfall

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