Kilnsey

Climbs 219 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015), Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
2Elderberry Orchard3 7
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 6
4Orion's Belt3 *20
5Right Hand Route3 19
6Andrex5c 15
7Alternative5a 22
 DIRECTISSIMA AREA  
9True South7b+  
10Peepshow6b+ 71
11Sidekick7a+ *55
12Sideshow7a+ *83
13Sideline7b 7
14Metal Mickey8b * 
15Metal Guru7c **75
16Last Action Hero8a ***7
17Man With A Gun7c+ **40
18Action Man8a **1
19Bullet8a+ *10
20Cold Steal8a ***26
21Stolen8b ***9
22Steal The Show8b *** 
23Stolen Time8b ** 
24Halftime7c+ **1
25Technician8a+ **2
26Showtime8b ***1
27Hardy Annual7a+ *102
28Epic Adventures8c ** 
29Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
30The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **23
31Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
32Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
33Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b 1
34WisebloodE6 6b ***4
35ContrabloodE5 6b 1
36Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
37Visitation7b 6b **21
38Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *1
39Deja VuE5 6b ***79
40Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
41Face ValueE5 6a **100
42Full ValueE5 6b **11
43ContraflowE5 6b *8
44The Big CE4 5c *22
45Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
46Added Value7a+ **27
47The Directissima6c ***431
48Next Direct7b+ * 
49Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***39
50Mandela8a+ ***10
51Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
52Dreamtime7c+ ***11
53Sticky Wicket7b *149
54Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **3
55Indian Summer8b+ ***1
56The Ashes7c+ ***71
57LimeraceE6 6c 1
5850 for 57b+ *109
5950 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 2
60All Out8b+ *** 
 THE BULGE AREA  
62Original RouteE3 6a **4
63LickerishE5 6a  
64BrainstormE1 5b 3
65Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
66Stumped7a+ 5
67Detox7b+ *9
68De-Stumped7b+ * 
69Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
70Taking the Mick7a+ **19
71Bird BrainE5 6b 2
72Comedy7c ***235
73Pantomime7b+ **96
74BirdmenE5 6b **4
75Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
76RubbleE6 6c *17
77Jenga8b+ *** 
78Nerve Ending7b *100
79Ecstacy8b ***11
80The Bulgelette6b+ *131
81The British LionsE5 6b  
82The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***45
83Travesty7c+ *3
84Tragedy7c+ **18
85I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
86Ground Effect7b **145
87The Truth Drug7b+ *68
88Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
89Dodger DirectE3 5c **53
90Are t'FullE4 6a 1
91Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
 DIHEDRAL WALL AREA  
93The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
94Witches Brew7b **92
95Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***107
96BalasE5 6b ***34
97Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
98Drenka8a+ ***1
99The Puppeteer8a **4
100RelaxE7 6b *** 
101China Crisis7c+ **20
102Solidarity7b+ 11
103Mr Nice7c+ **22
104The Jekyll7c+ **24
105Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
106No Through Road6b 17
107Silk Road7b *7
108Highway 3956c+ **200
109Open Road6c **191
110Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
111Arch RivalE5 6a *7
112Achilles HeelE4 6b *8
113ArchitraveE4 5c *2
114A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
115La PerlaE5 6b  
116No Man's LandE4 6a 1
117Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
 OPTIONAL EXTRA AREA  
119New Mystique6b+ *177
120Fatoliti's Cat6c *23
121MystiqueE3 5c 7
122Conglom Arete7a *24
123Allakazam6c *21
124Quiet Flight (original)7a **3
125Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***150
126Air Rage7c+ *3
127AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
128Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **3
129Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
130Give Me Convenience7c  
131Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
132No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **24
133Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
134First Impresions7c * 
135The Alternative Option7a+ 11
136The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **145
137Optional ExtraE4 6b 14
138The Extra Option7a+ *5
139Fit as...E5 6a **1
140Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 BIOLOGICAL NEED AREA  
142Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
143Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
144Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 18
145Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 9
146Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
147Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
148MantissaE5 6b *2
149Biological Need7c ***80
150The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***1
151Zero Option7c+ **14
152Soft Option8a ***17
153Soft-Zero Option8a **5
154Double IndemnityE6 6b  
155Massala Martyr8b *1
156Joint Enterprisef7C **1
157A Smarter Martyr8b 1
158ExodusE7 6c 2
159Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
160WarlordE2 5c 3
161Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
 CENTRAL WALL  
163PeripatheticE5 6b * 
164Central WallE4 6a ***89
165White RushinE6 6b ***1
166High OctaneE6 6b ** 
167White FeatherE5 6b *1
168ClawsE5 6a ***20
169The DiedreE2 5b ***104
170System Of A DownE4 6b **2
171Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
172Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
173KenE5 6a 1
174Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
175Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 THE NORTH BUTTRESS  
177North Buttress DirectA3 **3
178Dominatrix7c ***129
179Exit to Eden8a ***1
180Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
181North Star9a *** 
182Progress8c+ ***1
183Northern Lights9a *** 
184Magnetic North8c+ *** 
185Full Tilt8b *11
186True North8c ***6
187Full On Action8b * 
188Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***34
189The Vanilla Path8a+ * 
190The Thumb8a ***31
191They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG AREA  
193Over The Thumb8a ***4
194Complete Control8a **12
195WYSIWYG7b+ **151
196The Perfect Storm7c+ **1
197Dead Calm7c+ ***61
198NisusE6 6b **1
199HeresyE6 6c  
200The OverlapE5 6b ***5
201Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *4
 SUBCULTURE AREA  
203Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
204RictusE5 6b *2
205Suigeneris7c 1
206The Last Gasp Finish7b *35
207Slab Culture7b+ *85
208Subculture8a **62
209Le Lapin8a *14
210Myra Hindley7c *27
211Little Ernie7c 6b **11
212Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
213Private Practice8a+ *8
214Grooved Arete8a+ ***25
215La Connection8b *1
216La False Connection8b ***1
217The Quick Fixe8b ***2
218Dalliance8b+ ***3
219Brief Encounter8b *1
220More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
221Smooth Torquer7a+ *114
222Fit Of Peak7c *4
223Downright TheftE3 6a 3
224Prying EyesE1 5b 14
225New HorizonE3 5c 3
226Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
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