Kilnsey

Climbs 219 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015), Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
2Elderberry Orchard3 7
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 4
4Orion's Belt3 *17
5Right Hand Route3 15
6Andrex5c 12
7Alternative5a 19
 DIRECTISSIMA AREA  
9Peepshow6b+ 62
10Sidekick7a+ *50
11Sideshow7a+ *77
12Sideline7b 6
13Metal Mickey8b * 
14Metal Guru7c **72
15Last Action Hero8a ***5
16Man With A Gun7c+ **31
17Action Man8a **1
18Bullet8a+ *6
19Cold Steal8a ***25
20Stolen8b ***7
21Steal The Show8b *** 
22Stolen Time8b ** 
23Halftime7c+ **1
24Technician8a+ ** 
25Showtime8b ***1
26Hardy Annual7a+ *95
27Epic Adventures8c ** 
28Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *1
29The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **20
30Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
31Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
32Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b 1
33WisebloodE6 6b ***4
34ContrabloodE5 6b 1
35Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
36Visitation7b 6b **20
37Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *1
38Deja VuE5 6b ***73
39Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
40Face ValueE5 6a **91
41Full ValueE5 6b **12
42ContraflowE5 6b *8
43The Big CE4 5c *20
44Guns in the Sky8b+  
45Added Value7a+ **22
46The Directissima6c ***385
47Next Direct7b+ * 
48Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***31
49Mandela8a+ ***8
50Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
51Dreamtime7c+ ***11
52Sticky Wicket7b *132
53Indian Summer8b+ ***1
54The Ashes7c+ ***62
55LimeraceE6 6c 1
5650 for 57b+ *100
5750 for 5 - The Ashes link8a+ 1
58All Out8b+ *** 
 THE BULGE AREA  
60Original RouteE3 6a **4
61LickerishE5 6a  
62BrainstormE1 5b 3
63Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
64Stumped7a+ 5
65Detox7b+ *9
66De-Stumped7b+ * 
67Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 2
68Taking the Mick7a+ ** 
69Bird BrainE5 6b 2
70Comedy7c ***209
71Pantomime7b+ **86
72BirdmenE5 6b **4
73Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
74RubbleE6 6c *17
75Jenga8b+ *** 
76Nerve Ending7b *96
77Ecstacy8b ***10
78The Bulgelette6b+ *120
79The British LionsE5 6b  
80The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***41
81Travesty7c+ *3
82Tragedy7c+ **18
83I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
84Ground Effect7b **141
85The Truth Drug7b+ *55
86Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
87Dodger DirectE3 5c **48
88Are t'FullE4 6a 1
89Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
 DIHEDRAL WALL AREA  
91The Organ GrinderE5 6a  
92Witches Brew7b **86
93Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***97
94BalasE5 6b ***33
95Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
96Drenka8a+ ***1
97The Puppeteer8a **4
98RelaxE7 6b *** 
99China Crisis7c+ **19
100Solidarity7b+ 11
101Mr Nice7c+ **22
102The Jekyll7c+ **24
103Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
104No Through Road6b 15
105Silk Road7b *7
106Highway 3956c+ **178
107Open Road6c **171
108Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
109Arch RivalE5 6a *7
110Achilles HeelE4 6b *8
111ArchitraveE4 5c *2
112A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
113La PerlaE5 6b  
114No Man's LandE4 6a 1
115Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
 OPTIONAL EXTRA AREA  
117New Mystique6b+ *149
118Fatoliti's Cat6c *18
119MystiqueE3 5c 7
120Conglom Arete7a *21
121Allakazam6c * 
122Quiet Flight (original)7a **1
123Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***125
124Air Rage7c+ *3
125AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
126Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **3
127Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
128Give Me Convenience7c  
129Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
130No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **24
131Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
132First Impresions7c * 
133The Alternative Option7a+ 10
134The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **135
135Optional ExtraE4 6b 14
136The Extra Option7a+ *5
137Fit as...E5 6a **1
138Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 BIOLOGICAL NEED AREA  
140Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
141Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
142Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 16
143Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 9
144Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **2
145Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
146MantissaE5 6b *2
147Biological Need7c ***69
148The Yorkshire Ripper8b *** 
149Zero Option7c+ **13
150Soft Option8a ***16
151Soft-Zero Option8a **4
152Double IndemnityE6 6b  
153Massala Martyr8b *1
154Joint Enterprisef7C **1
155A Smarter Martyr8b 1
156ExodusE7 6c 2
157Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
158WarlordE2 5c 3
159Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
 CENTRAL WALL  
161PeripatheticE5 6b * 
162Central WallE4 6a ***82
163White RushinE6 6b ***1
164High OctaneE6 6b ** 
165White FeatherE5 6b *1
166ClawsE5 6a ***19
167The DiedreE2 5b ***91
168System Of A DownE4 6b **2
169Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
170Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
171KenE5 6a 1
172Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
173Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 THE NORTH BUTTRESS  
175North Buttress DirectA3 **3
176Dominatrix7c ***115
177Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
178North Star9a *** 
179Progress8c+ ***1
180Northern Lights9a *** 
181Magnetic North8c+ *** 
182Full Tilt8b *11
183True North8c ***6
184Full On Action8b * 
185Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***31
186The Vanilla Path8a+ * 
187The Thumb8a ***27
188They Brush Me8a+ * 
189Over The Thumb8a ***3
 SUBCULTURE AREA  
191Complete Control8a **11
192WYSIWYG7b+ **138
193The Perfect Storm7c+ **1
194Dead Calm7c+ ***59
195NisusE6 6b **1
196HeresyE6 6c  
197The OverlapE5 6b ***5
198Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *4
199RictusE5 6b *2
200Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
201Suigeneris7c 1
202The Last Gasp Finish7b *32
203Slab Culture7b+ *76
204Subculture8a **57
205Le Lapin8a *13
206Myra Hindley7c *25
207Little Ernie7c 6b **11
208Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
209Private Practice8a+ *8
210Grooved Arete8a+ ***23
211La Connection8b *1
212La False Connection8b ***1
213The Quick Fixe8b ***2
214Dalliance8b+ ***2
215Brief Encounter8b *1
216More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
217Smooth Torquer7a+ *108
218Fit Of Peak7c *4
219Downright TheftE3 6a 3
220Prying EyesE1 5b 13
221New HorizonE3 5c 3
222Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
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These details were last updated on 12/Jul/2014
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