Climbs 223
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Mark Leach on Mandela 1988 © Ian Horrocks

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South Buttress 
2Elderberry Orchard3 7
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 6
4Orion's Belt3 *20
5Right Hand Route3 19
6Andrex5c 15
7Alternative5a 22
 Directissima Area 
9True South7b+  
10Peepshow6b+ 73
11Sidekick7a+ *56
12Sideshow7a+ *86
13Sideline7b 8
14Metal Mickey8b * 
15Metal Guru7c **78
16Last Action Hero8a ***7
17Man With A Gun7c+ **41
18Action Man8a **1
19Bullet8a+ *11
20Cold Steal8a ***26
21Stolen8b ***9
22Steal The Show8b *** 
23Stolen Time8b ** 
24Halftime7c+ **1
25The Technician8a+ **2
26Showtime8b ***1
27Hardy Annual7a+ *107
28Freakshow8c ***1
29Epic Adventures8c ** 
30Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
31The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **25
32Make Or Break
-
E5 6b * 
33Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
34Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)E6 6b 1
35WisebloodE6 6b ***4
36ContrabloodE5 6b 1
37Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
38Visitation7b 6b **21
39Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *3
40Another Vu Point7a+ ***1
41Premonition8b+ *** 
42Deja VuE5 6b ***84
43Point of VuE5 6b ***1
44Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
45Face ValueE5 6a **105
46Full ValueE5 6b **12
47ContraflowE5 6b *10
48C/DE5 6b ***1
49The Big CE4 5c *24
50Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
51Added Value
-
7a+ **28
52The Directissima6c ***469
53Next Direct7b+ * 
54Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***41
55Mandela8a+ ***10
56Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
57Dreamtime7c+ ***11
58Sticky Wicket7b *157
59Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **3
60Indian Summer8b+ ***2
61The Ashes7c+ ***75
62LimeraceE6 6c 1
6350 for 57b+ *114
6450 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 2
65All Out8b+ *** 
 The Bulge Area 
67Original RouteE3 6a **4
68Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
69Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
70Captain TrippsE4 5c **6
71Stumped7a+ 5
72Detox7b+ *9
73De-Stumped7b+ * 
74Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
75Taking the Mick7a+ **24
76Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
77Comedy7c ***241
78Pantomime7b+ **97
79BirdmenE5 6b **4
80Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b * 
81RubbleE6 6c *17
82Jenga8b+ *** 
83Nerve Ending7b *100
84Ecstacy8b ***11
85The Bulgelette6b+ *138
86The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
87The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***51
88Travesty7c+ *3
89Tragedy7c+ **19
90I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
91Ground Effect7b **148
92The Truth Drug7b+ *71
93Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 2
94Dodger DirectE3 5c **53
95Are t'FullE4 6a 1
96Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
 Dihedral Wall Area 
98The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
99Witches Brew7b **94
100Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***113
101BalasE5 6b ***36
102Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
103Drenka8a+ ***1
104The Puppeteer8a **4
105RelaxE7 6b *** 
106China Crisis7c+ **22
107Solidarity
-
7b+ 11
108Mr Nice7c+ **22
109The Jekyll7c+ **25
110Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
111No Through Road
-
6b 17
112Silk Road7b *7
113Highway 3956c+ **207
114Open Road6c **195
115Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
116Arch RivalE5 6a *7
117Achilles HeelE4 6b *8
118ArchitraveE4 5c *2
119A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
120La Perla
-
E5 6b  
121No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
122Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
 Optional Extra Area 
124New Mystique6b+ *191
125Fatoliti's Cat6c *24
126MystiqueE3 5c 10
127Conglom Arete7a *27
128Allakazam6c *38
129Quiet Flight (original)7a **6
130Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***157
131Air Rage7c+ *3
132AbracadaveraE3 5c *12
133Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **3
134Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
135Give Me Convenience7c  
136Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
137No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **24
138Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 2
139First Impresions7c * 
140The Alternative Option7a+ 12
141The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **148
142Optional ExtraE4 6b 14
143The Extra Option7a+ *6
144Fit as...E5 6a **1
145Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 Biological Need Area 
147Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
148Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
149Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 20
150Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 9
151Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
152Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
153MantissaE5 6b *2
154Biological Need7c ***87
155The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***1
156Zero Option7c+ **15
157Soft Option8a ***18
158Soft-Zero Option8a **5
159Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
160Massala Martyr8b *1
161Joint Enterprisef7C **1
162A Smarter Martyr8b 1
163ExodusE7 6c 2
164Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
165WarlordE2 5c 4
166Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
 Central Wall 
168PeripatheticE5 6b * 
169Central WallE4 6a ***95
170White RushinE6 6b ***1
171High OctaneE6 6b ** 
172White FeatherE5 6b *1
173ClawsE5 6a ***22
174The DiedreE2 5b ***110
175System Of A DownE4 6b **2
176Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
177Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **16
178KenE5 6a 1
179Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
180Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 The North Buttress 
182North Buttress Direct
-
A3 **3
183Dominatrix7c ***135
184Exit to Eden7c+ **5
185Drag Queen8a **2
186Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
187North Star9a *** 
188Progress8c+ ***1
189Northern Lights9a *** 
190Magnetic North8c+ *** 
191Full Tilt8b *11
192True North8c ***6
193Full On Action8b * 
194Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***34
195The Vanilla Path8a+ *2
196Vanilla-Thumb8a+ **1
197The Thumb8a ***35
198They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG area 
200Over The Thumb8a ***4
201Complete Control8a **12
202WYSIWYG7b+ **159
203The Perfect Storm7c+ **2
204Dead Calm7c+ ***61
205NisusE6 6b **2
206HeresyE6 6c  
207The OverlapE5 6b ***5
 Subculture Area 
209Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *5
210Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
211RictusE5 6b *7
212Suigeneris7c 1
213The Last Gasp Finish7b *37
214Slab Culture7b+ *90
215Subculture8a **64
216Le Lapin8a *14
217Myra Hindley7c *30
218Little Ernie7c 6b **11
219Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
220Private Practice8a+ *8
221Grooved Arete8a+ ***27
222La Connection8b *1
223La False Connection8b ***2
224The Quick Fixe8b ***3
225Dalliance8b+ ***3
226Brief Encounter8b *1
227More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
228Smooth Torquer7a+ *118
229Fit Of Peak7c *4
230Downright TheftE3 6a 4
231Prying EyesE1 5b 15
232New HorizonE3 5c 4
 Unsorted Climbs 
234Peeping TomHVS 5a 3

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