Kilnsey

Climbs 219 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015), Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
2Elderberry Orchard3 7
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 6
4Orion's Belt3 *20
5Right Hand Route3 19
6Andrex5c 15
7Alternative5a 22
 DIRECTISSIMA AREA  
9True South7b+  
10Peepshow6b+ 72
11Sidekick7a+ *56
12Sideshow7a+ *83
13Sideline7b 8
14Metal Mickey8b * 
15Metal Guru7c **77
16Last Action Hero8a ***7
17Man With A Gun7c+ **40
18Action Man8a **1
19Bullet8a+ *11
20Cold Steal8a ***26
21Stolen8b ***9
22Steal The Show8b *** 
23Stolen Time8b ** 
24Halftime7c+ **1
25The Technician8a+ **2
26Showtime8b ***1
27Hardy Annual7a+ *103
28Freakshow8c ***1
29Epic Adventures8c ** 
30Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
31The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **23
32Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
33Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
34Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)E6 6b 1
35WisebloodE6 6b ***4
36ContrabloodE5 6b 1
37Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
38Visitation7b 6b **21
39Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *2
40Deja VuE5 6b ***80
41Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
42Face ValueE5 6a **102
43Full ValueE5 6b **12
44ContraflowE5 6b *8
45The Big CE4 5c *23
46Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
47Added Value7a+ **28
48The Directissima6c ***437
49Next Direct7b+ * 
50Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***39
51Mandela8a+ ***10
52Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
53Dreamtime7c+ ***11
54Sticky Wicket7b *150
55Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **3
56Indian Summer8b+ ***2
57The Ashes7c+ ***72
58LimeraceE6 6c 1
5950 for 57b+ *112
6050 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 2
61All Out8b+ *** 
 THE BULGE AREA  
63Original RouteE3 6a **4
64LickerishE5 6a  
65BrainstormE1 5b 3
66Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
67Stumped7a+ 5
68Detox7b+ *9
69De-Stumped7b+ * 
70Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
71Taking the Mick7a+ **21
72Bird BrainE5 6b 2
73Comedy7c ***238
74Pantomime7b+ **96
75BirdmenE5 6b **4
76Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
77RubbleE6 6c *17
78Jenga8b+ *** 
79Nerve Ending7b *100
80Ecstacy8b ***11
81The Bulgelette6b+ *133
82The British LionsE5 6b  
83The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***47
84Travesty7c+ *3
85Tragedy7c+ **18
86I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
87Ground Effect7b **146
88The Truth Drug7b+ *70
89Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
90Dodger DirectE3 5c **52
91Are t'FullE4 6a 1
92Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
 DIHEDRAL WALL AREA  
94The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
95Witches Brew7b **94
96Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***108
97BalasE5 6b ***34
98Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
99Drenka8a+ ***1
100The Puppeteer8a **4
101RelaxE7 6b *** 
102China Crisis7c+ **20
103Solidarity7b+ 11
104Mr Nice7c+ **22
105The Jekyll7c+ **24
106Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
107No Through Road6b 17
108Silk Road7b *7
109Highway 3956c+ **202
110Open Road6c **193
111Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
112Arch RivalE5 6a *7
113Achilles HeelE4 6b *8
114ArchitraveE4 5c *2
115A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
116La PerlaE5 6b  
117No Man's LandE4 6a 1
118Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
 OPTIONAL EXTRA AREA  
120New Mystique6b+ *183
121Fatoliti's Cat6c *24
122MystiqueE3 5c 9
123Conglom Arete7a *25
124Allakazam6c *28
125Quiet Flight (original)7a **3
126Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***156
127Air Rage7c+ *3
128AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
129Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **3
130Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
131Give Me Convenience7c  
132Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
133No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **24
134Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
135First Impresions7c * 
136The Alternative Option7a+ 11
137The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **147
138Optional ExtraE4 6b 14
139The Extra Option7a+ *6
140Fit as...E5 6a **1
141Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 BIOLOGICAL NEED AREA  
143Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
144Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
145Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 19
146Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 9
147Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
148Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
149MantissaE5 6b *2
150Biological Need7c ***83
151The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***1
152Zero Option7c+ **15
153Soft Option8a ***18
154Soft-Zero Option8a **5
155Double IndemnityE6 6b  
156Massala Martyr8b *1
157Joint Enterprisef7C **1
158A Smarter Martyr8b 1
159ExodusE7 6c 2
160Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
161WarlordE2 5c 3
162Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
 CENTRAL WALL  
164PeripatheticE5 6b * 
165Central WallE4 6a ***91
166White RushinE6 6b ***1
167High OctaneE6 6b ** 
168White FeatherE5 6b *1
169ClawsE5 6a ***20
170The DiedreE2 5b ***106
171System Of A DownE4 6b **2
172Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
173Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
174KenE5 6a 1
175Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
176Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 THE NORTH BUTTRESS  
178North Buttress DirectA3 **3
179Dominatrix7c ***132
180Exit to Eden8a ***3
181Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
182North Star9a *** 
183Progress8c+ ***1
184Northern Lights9a *** 
185Magnetic North8c+ *** 
186Full Tilt8b *11
187True North8c ***6
188Full On Action8b * 
189Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***34
190The Vanilla Path8a+ *2
191The Thumb8a ***31
192They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG AREA  
194Over The Thumb8a ***4
195Complete Control8a **12
196WYSIWYG7b+ **156
197The Perfect Storm7c+ **1
198Dead Calm7c+ ***61
199NisusE6 6b **2
200HeresyE6 6c  
201The OverlapE5 6b ***5
 SUBCULTURE AREA  
203Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *5
204Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
205RictusE5 6b *4
206Suigeneris7c 1
207The Last Gasp Finish7b *37
208Slab Culture7b+ *87
209Subculture8a **62
210Le Lapin8a *14
211Myra Hindley7c *27
212Little Ernie7c 6b **11
213Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
214Private Practice8a+ *8
215Grooved Arete8a+ ***25
216La Connection8b *1
217La False Connection8b ***1
218The Quick Fixe8b ***2
219Dalliance8b+ ***3
220Brief Encounter8b *1
221More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
222Smooth Torquer7a+ *115
223Fit Of Peak7c *4
224Downright TheftE3 6a 3
225Prying EyesE1 5b 14
226New HorizonE3 5c 3
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
228Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
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