Kilnsey

Climbs 207 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Elderberry Orchard3 7
2Round The Mulberry Bush3 4
3Orion's Belt3 *17
4Right Hand Route3 15
5Andrex5c 12
6Alternative5a 19
7Peepshow6b+ 62
8Sidekick7a+ *49
9Sideshow7a+ *77
10Sideline7b 6
11Metal Mickey8b ** 
12Metal Guru7c **72
13Last Action Hero8a **5
14Man With A Gun7c+ **31
15Action Man8a **1
16Bullet8a+ *6
17Cold Steal8a **25
18Stolen8b ***7
19Steal The Show8b *** 
20Stolen Time8b ** 
21Halftime7c+ **1
22Technician8a+ ** 
23Showtime8b ***1
24Hardy Annual7b **94
25Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *1
26The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **20
27Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
28Jump LeadsE6 6b 1
29Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b **1
30WisebloodE6 6b ***4
31ContrabloodE5 6b 1
32Diminishing Returns7c **3
33Visitation7b **20
34Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *1
35Deja VuE5 6b ***73
36Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
37Face ValueE5 6a **91
38Full ValueE5 6b *12
39ContraflowE5 6b **8
40The Big CE4 5c *20
41Guns in the Sky8b+ *** 
42Added Value7a+ **22
43The Directissima6c ***383
44Next Direct7b+  
45Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***30
46Mandela8a+ ***8
47Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
48Dreamtime7c+ ***11
49Sticky Wicket7b *131
50Indian Summer8b+ ***1
51The Ashes7c+ ***61
52LimeraceE6 6c 1
5350 for 57b+ **99
5450 for 5 - The Ashes link8a+ 1
55All Out8b+ *** 
56Original RouteE3 6a 4
57LickerishE5 6a  
58BrainstormE1 5b 3
59Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
60Stumped7a+ 5
61Detox7b+ 9
62Taking the MickE5 6a 2
63Taking the Mick (Again)7a+ ** 
64Bird BrainE5 6b 2
65Comedy7c ***208
66Pantomime7b+ **85
67BirdmenE5 6b *4
68Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
69Rubble7c *17
70Nerve Ending7b 95
71Ecstacy8b ***9
72The Bulgelette6b+ *119
73The British LionsE5 6b  
74The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***40
75Travesty7c+ *3
76Tragedy7c **18
77I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c *10
78Ground Effect7b ***140
79The Truth Drug7b+ **55
80Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
81Dodger DirectE3 5c **48
82Are t'FullE4 6a 1
83Floccipaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
84The Organ GrinderE5 6a  
85Witches Brew7b **85
86Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***97
87BalasE5 6b ***33
88Sabbath's Theatre7c *1
89Drenka8a+ **1
90The Puppeteer8a+ **4
91RelaxE7 6b * 
92China Crisis7c+ *19
93Solidarity7b+ 11
94Mr Nice7c+ **22
95The Jekyll7c+ *24
96Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
97No Through Road6b 15
98Silk Road7b 7
99Highway 3956c+ ***176
100Open Road6c **171
101Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
102Arch RivalE5 6a *7
103Achilles HeelE4 6b 8
104ArchitraveE4 5c 2
105A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
106La PerlaE5 6b  
107No Man's LandE4 6a 1
108Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
109New Mystique6b+ *149
110Fatoliti's Cat6c 18
111MystiqueE3 5c 7
112Conglom Arete7a 21
113Quiet Flight (original)7a **1
114Quiet Flight Direct7a+ *125
115Air Rage7c **3
116AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
117Perverted GeraniumE4 6b *3
118Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
119Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
120No More Jumping to Conclusions7b+ 24
121Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
122First Impresions7c * 
123The Alternative Option7a+ 10
124The Alternative Extra Option7b *134
125Optional ExtraE4 6b **14
126The Extra Option7a+ *5
127Fit as...E5 6a **1
128Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
129Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
130Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
131Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 15
132Another Clip In The Wall7a+ *9
133Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **2
134Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
135MantissaE5 6b 2
136Biological Need7c ***68
137The Yorkshire Ripper8b *** 
138Zero Option7c+ *13
139Soft Option8a **16
140Soft-Zero Option8a **4
141Double IndemnityE6 6b  
142Massala Martyr8b 1
143Joint Enterprisef7C **1
144A Smarter Martyr8b **1
145ExodusE8 6c 2
146Mistaken IdentityE5 7a *2
147WarlordE2 5c 3
148Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
149PeripatheticE5 6b * 
150Central WallE4 6a ***82
151White RushinE6 6c *1
152High OctaneE6 6b ** 
153White FeatherE5 6b 1
154ClawsE5 6a ***19
155The DiedreE2 5b ***89
156System Of A DownE4 6b **2
157Friends In High PlacesE4 5c *5
158Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
159KenE5 6a **1
160Ice Spurt SpecialE5 6b * 
161Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
162North Buttress DirectA3 **3
163Dominatrix7c ***114
164Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
165North Star9a *** 
166Progress8c+ ***1
167Northern Lights9a *** 
168Magnetic North8c+  
169Full Tilt8b **11
170True North8c ***6
171Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***31
172The Vanilla Path8a+ ** 
173The Thumb8a ***27
174They Brush Me8a+ * 
175Over The Thumb8a **3
176Complete Control8a **11
177WYSIWYG7b *137
178The Perfect Storm7c+ 1
179Dead Calm8a ***58
180NisusE6 6b **1
181HeresyE6 6c  
182The OverlapE5 6b ***5
183Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *4
184RictusE5 6b *2
185Dr Crimp8b+ **1
186Chris's Route7c 1
187The Last Gasp Finish7b 32
188Slab Culture7b+ **76
189Subculture8a **57
190Le Lapin8a **13
191Myra Hindley7c *25
192Little Ernie7b+ **11
193Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
194Private Practice8a+ *8
195Grooved Arete8a+ ***22
196La Connection8b+ **1
197The Quick Fixe8a+ *2
198Dalliance8b+ ***2
199Brief Encounter8b *1
200More Rhubarb Faster7c+ **4
201Smooth Torquer7a+ *107
202Fit Of Peak7c 4
203Downright TheftE3 6a 3
204Prying EyesE1 5b *13
205New HorizonE3 5c 3
206Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
207La Connection (Original)8b ***1
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
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These details were last updated on 12/Jul/2014

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