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These details were last updated on 12/Jul/2014

Kilnsey

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 203 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.6mm rain
Sun
21 °C
11 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
17 kph

1.1mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
16 kph

1.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
14 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Elderberry Orchard3 7
2Round The Mulberry Bush3 4
3Orion's Belt3 *16
4Right Hand Route3 15
5Andrex5c 12
6Alternative5a 18
7Peepshow6b+ 60
8Sidekick7a+ *47
9Sideshow7a+ *73
10Sideline7b 6
11Metal Mickey8b ** 
12Metal Guru7c **64
13Last Action Hero8a **5
14Man With A Gun7c+ **30
15Action Man8a **1
16Bullet8a+ *6
17Cold Steal8a **24
18Stolen8b ***7
19Steal The Show8b *** 
20Stolen Time8b ** 
21Showtime8b ***1
22Halftime7c+ ** 
23Hardy Annual7b **85
24Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *1
25The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **20
26Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
27Jump LeadsE6 6b 1
28Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b **1
29WisebloodE6 6b ***4
30ContrabloodE5 6b 1
31Diminishing Returns7c **1
32VisitationE5 6b **12
33Deja VuE5 6b ***71
34Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
35Face ValueE5 6a **88
36Full ValueE5 6b *12
37ContraflowE5 6b **8
38The Big CE4 5c *20
39Added Value7a+ **16
40The Directissima6c ***356
41Next Direct7b+  
42Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***29
43Mandela8a+ ***7
44Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
45Dreamtime7c+ ***9
46Sticky Wicket7b *123
47Indian Summer8b+ ***1
48The Ashes7c+ ***55
49LimeraceE6 6c 1
5050 for 57b+ **97
5150 for 5 - The Ashes link8a+ 1
52All Out8b+ *** 
53Original RouteE3 6a 4
54LickerishE5 6a  
55BrainstormE1 5b 3
56Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
57Stumped7a+ 5
58Detox7b+ 9
59Taking the MickE5 6a 1
60Bird BrainE5 6b 1
61Comedy7c ***195
62Pantomime7b+ **80
63BirdmenE5 6b *4
64Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
65Rubble7c *16
66Nerve Ending7b 86
67Ecstacy8b ***8
68The Bulgelette6b+ *114
69The British LionsE5 6b  
70The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***42
71Travesty7c+ *3
72Tragedy7c **18
73I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c *10
74Ground Effect7b ***130
75The Truth Drug7b+ **52
76Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
77Dodger DirectE3 5c **46
78Are t'FullE4 6a 1
79Floccipaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
80The Organ GrinderE5 6a  
81Witches Brew7b **83
82Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***88
83BalasE5 6b ***33
84Sabbath's Theatre7c *1
85Drenka8a+ ** 
86The Puppeteer8a+ **3
87RelaxE7 6b * 
88China Crisis7c+ *19
89Solidarity7b+ 11
90Mr Nice7c+ **21
91The Jekyll7c+ *22
92Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
93No Through Road6b 14
94Silk Road7b 7
95Highway 3956c+ ***160
96Open Road6c **163
97Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
98Arch RivalE5 6a *7
99Achilles HeelE4 6b 8
100ArchitraveE4 5c 2
101A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
102La PerlaE5 6b  
 Climb nameGradex
103No Man's LandE4 6a 1
104Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
105New Mystique6b+ *135
106Fatoliti's Cat6c 12
107MystiqueE3 5c 7
108Conglom Arete7a 20
109Quiet Flight (original)7a **1
110Quiet Flight Direct7a+ *123
111Air Rage7c **2
112AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
113Perverted GeraniumE4 6b *3
114Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
115Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
116No More Jumping to Conclusions7b+ 23
117Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
118First Impresions7c * 
119The Alternative Option7a+ 10
120The Alternative Extra Option7b *128
121Optional ExtraE4 6b **13
122The Extra Option7a+ *3
123Fit as...E5 6a ** 
124Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
125Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
126Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
127Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 15
128Another Clip In The Wall7a+ *9
129Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **2
130Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
131MantissaE5 6b 2
132Biological Need7c ***63
133The Yorkshire Ripper8b *** 
134Zero Option7c+ *13
135Soft Option8a **15
136Soft-Zero Option8a **3
137Double IndemnityE6 6b  
138Massala Martyr8b 1
139Joint Enterprisef7C **1
140A Smarter Martyr8b **1
141ExodusE8 6c 2
142Mistaken IdentityE5 7a *2
143WarlordE2 5c 3
144Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
145PeripatheticE5 6b * 
146Central WallE4 6a ***79
147White RushinE6 6c *1
148High OctaneE6 6b ** 
149White FeatherE5 6b 1
150ClawsE5 6a ***19
151The DiedreE2 5b ***87
152System Of A DownE4 6b **2
153Friends In High PlacesE4 5c *5
154Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
155KenE5 6a **1
156Ice Spurt SpecialE5 6b * 
157Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
158North Buttress DirectA3 **3
159Dominatrix7c ***100
160Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
161North Star9a *** 
162Progress8c+ *** 
163Northern Lights9a *** 
164Magnetic North8c+  
165Full Tilt8b **11
166True North8c ***5
167Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***29
168The Vanilla Path8a+ ** 
169The Thumb8a ***24
170They Brush Me8a+ * 
171Over The Thumb8a **2
172Complete Control8a **8
173WYSIWYG7b *125
174The Perfect Storm7c+  
175Dead Calm8a ***55
176NisusE6 6b **1
177HeresyE6 6c  
178The OverlapE5 6b ***4
179Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *4
180RictusE5 6b *2
181Dr Crimp8b+ **1
182Chris's Route7c 1
183The Last Gasp Finish7b 25
184Slab Culture7b+ **69
185Subculture8a **46
186Le Lapin8a **12
187Myra Hindley7c *20
188Little Ernie7b+ **11
189Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
190Private Practice8a+ *6
191Grooved Arete8a+ ***22
192La Connection8b+ **1
193The Quick Fixe8a+ *2
194Dalliance8b+ ***2
195Brief Encounter8b *1
196More Rhubarb Faster7c+ **4
197Smooth Torquer7a+ *105
198Fit Of Peak7c 4
199Downright TheftE3 6a 3
200Prying EyesE1 5b *13
201New HorizonE3 5c 3
202Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
203La Connection (Original)8b ***1
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