Climbs 226
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

Access Advice

Avoid climbing routes with obvious in-situ bird's nests (House Martin/Swallow) before the end of July.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South Buttress 
2Elderberry Orchard3 8
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 7
4Orion's Belt3 *21
5Right Hand Route3 20
6Andrex5c 16
7Alternative5a 23
 Directissima Area 
9True South7b+ 3
10Peepshow6b+ 75
11Sidekick7a+ *63
12Sideshow7a+ *98
13Sideline7b 10
14Metal Mickey8b * 
15Metal Guru7c **100
16Last Action Hero8a ***11
17Man With A Gun7c+ **45
18Action Man8a **1
19Bullet8a+ *15
20Cold Steal8a ***34
21Stolen8b ***16
22Steal The Show8b *** 
23Stolen Time8b ** 
24Halftime7c+ **1
25The Technician8a+ **2
26Showtime8b ***1
27Hardy Annual7a+ *121
28Freakshow8c ***1
29Epic Adventures8c ** 
30Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
31The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **26
32Make Or Break
-
E5 6b * 
33Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
34Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)E6 6b 1
35WisebloodE6 6b ***4
36ContrabloodE5 6b 1
37Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
38Visitation7b 6b **37
39Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *10
40Another Vu Point7a+ ***1
41Premonition8b+ *** 
42Deja VuE5 6b ***97
43Point of VuE5 6b ***1
44Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
45Face ValueE5 6a **112
46Full ValueE5 6b **12
47ContraflowE5 6b *10
48C/DE5 6b ***1
49The Big CE4 5c *25
50Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
51Added Value
-
7a+ **36
52The Directissima6c ***522
53Next Direct7b+ * 
54Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***70
55Mandela8a+ ***28
56Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
57Dreamtime7c+ ***18
58LBW7a *7
59Sticky Wicket7b *189
60Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **6
61Indian Summer8b+ ***4
62The Ashes7c+ ***107
63LimeraceE6 6c 1
6450 for 57b+ *143
6550 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 6
66All Out8b+ *** 
 The Bulge Area 
68Original RouteE3 6a **4
69Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
70Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
71Captain TrippsE4 5c **7
72Stumped7a+ 5
73Detox7b+ *10
74De-Stumped7b+ * 
75Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
76Taking the Mick7a+ **42
77Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
78Comedy7c ***338
79Pantomime7b+ **117
80BirdmenE5 6b **4
81Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b * 
82RubbleE6 6c *18
83Jenga8b+ *** 
84Nerve Ending7b *112
85Ecstacy8b ***17
86The Bulgelette6b+ *158
87The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
88The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***83
89Travesty7c+ *3
90Tragedy7c+ **19
91I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
92Ground Effect7b **181
93The Truth Drug7b+ *88
94Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 2
95Dodger DirectE3 5c **60
96Are t'FullE4 6a 1
97Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 19
 Dihedral Wall Area 
99The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
100Witches Brew7b **110
101Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***159
102BalasE5 6b ***38
103Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
104Drenka8a+ ***1
105The Puppeteer8a **7
106RelaxE7 6b *** 
107China Crisis7c+ **22
108Solidarity
-
7b+ 11
109Mr Nice7c+ **25
110The Jekyll7c+ **25
111Dihedral WallE5 6b ***13
112No Through Road6b 17
113Silk Road7b *7
114Highway 3956c+ **247
115Open Road6c **231
116Open Road (original)E4 6a **3
117Arch RivalE5 6a *8
118Achilles Heel (Original)E4 6b *38
119Achilles Heel (retro bolted)6c+ 4
120ArchitraveE4 5c *3
121A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
122La Perla
-
E5 6b  
123No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
124Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
 Optional Extra Area 
126MystiqueE3 5c 10
127New Mystique6b+ *238
128Fatoliti's Cat6c *27
129Conglom Arete7a *34
130Allakazam6c *74
131Quiet Flight (original)7a **7
132Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***204
133Air Rage7c+ *3
134AbracadaveraE3 5c *12
135Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **4
136Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
137Give Me Convenience7c  
138Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
139No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **26
140Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 2
141First Impresions7c *3
142The Alternative Option7a+ 12
143The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **195
144Optional ExtraE4 6b 15
145The Extra Option7a+ *7
146Fit as...E5 6a **1
147Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 Biological Need Area 
149Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
150Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 2
151Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 22
152Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 10
153Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
154Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
155MantissaE5 6b *2
156Biological Need7c ***122
157The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***10
158Zero Option7c+ **17
159Soft Option8a ***27
160Soft-Zero Option8a **8
161Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
162Massala Martyr8b *1
163Joint Enterprisef7C **1
164A Smarter Martyr8b 1
165ExodusE7 6c 2
166Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
167WarlordE2 5c 4
168Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
 Central Wall 
170PeripatheticE5 6b * 
171Central WallE4 6a ***118
172White RushinE6 6b ***1
173High OctaneE6 6b ** 
174White FeatherE5 6b *1
175ClawsE5 6a ***28
176The DiedreE2 5b ***115
177System Of A DownE4 6b **2
178Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
179Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **22
180KenE5 6a 1
181Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
182Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 The North Buttress 
184North Buttress Direct
-
A3 **3
185Dominatrix7c ***202
186Exit to Eden7c+ **11
187Drag Queen7c+ **10
188Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
189North Star9a *** 
190Progress8c+ ***6
191Northern Lights9a *** 
192Magnetic North8c+ *** 
193Full Tilt8b *13
194True North8c ***7
195Full On Action8b * 
196Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***59
197The Vanilla Path8a+ *2
198Vanilla-Thumb8a+ **1
199The Thumb8a ***53
200They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG area 
202Over The Thumb8a ***4
203Complete Control8a **12
204WYSIWYG7b+ **188
205The Perfect Storm7c+ **4
206Dead Calm7c+ ***69
207NisusE6 6b **2
208HeresyE6 6c  
209The OverlapE5 6b ***5
 Subculture Area 
211Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *5
212Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
213Rictus7b *9
214Rictus (retro bolted)
-
7b * 
215Suigeneris7c 2
216The Last Gasp Finish7b *53
217Slab Culture7b+ *108
218Subculture8a **86
219Le Lapin8a *18
220Myra Hindley7c *41
221Little Ernie7c 6b **11
222Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
223Private Practice8a+ *8
224Grooved Arete8a+ ***43
225La Connection8b *3
226La False Connection8b ***2
227The Quick Fixe8b ***3
228Dalliance8b+ ***3
229Brief Encounter8b *1
230More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
231Smooth Torquer7a+ *144
232Fit Of Peak7c *4
233Downright TheftE3 6a 4
234Prying EyesE1 5b 16
235New HorizonE3 5c 4
236Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 Unsorted Climbs 

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