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These details were last updated on 17/May/2013

Kilnsey

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 196 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

2.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
20 kph

0.6mm rain
Sun
12 °C
7 kph

0.1mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
17 kph

1.8mm rain
Sun
10 °C
19 kph

0.5mm rain
Sun
12 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Elderberry Orchard3 7
2Round The Mulberry Bush3 4
3Orion's Belt3 *16
4Right Hand Route3 15
5Andrex5+ 12
6Alternative5 18
7Peepshow6b+ 59
8Sidekick7a+ *44
9Sideshow7a+ *70
10Sideline7b 5
11Metal Mickey8b  
12Metal Guru7c **57
13Last Action Hero8a **5
14Man With A Gun7c+ **25
15Last Man8a **1
16Bullet8a+ *5
17Cold Steal8a **22
18Stolen8b ***7
19Steal The Show8b *** 
20Showtime8a+ ***1
21Hardy Annual7b **79
22The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **18
23Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
24Jump LeadsE6 6b 1
25Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b **1
26WisebloodE6 6b ***3
27Diminishing ReturnsE6 6b 1
28VisitationE5 6b **10
29Deja VuE5 6b ***67
30Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
31Face ValueE5 6a **81
32Full ValueE5 6b *12
33ContraflowE5 6b **7
34The Big CE4 5c *19
35Directisima LH Finish7a+ **9
36The Directissima6c ***328
37Next Direct7b+  
38Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***27
39Mandela8a+ ***7
40Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
41Dreamtime7c+ ***8
42Sticky Wicket7b *107
43Indian Summer8b+ ***1
44The Ashes7c+ ***50
45LimeraceE6 6c 1
4650 for 57b+ **87
47All Out8b+ *** 
48Original RouteE3 6a 4
49LickerishE5 6a  
50BrainstormE1 5b 3
51Captain TrippsE4 5c **4
52Stumped7a+ 4
53Detox7b+ 8
54Taking the MickE5 6a 1
55Bird BrainE5 6b  
56Comedy7c ***173
57Pantomime7b+ **71
58BirdmenE5 6b *3
59Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
60Rubble7c *16
61Nerve Ending7b 78
62Ecstacy8b ***7
63The Bulgelette6b+ *106
64The British LionsE5 6b  
65Let Them Eat Jellybeans8a ***36
66Travesty7c+ *2
67Tragedy7c **17
68I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c *8
69Ground Effect7b ***113
70The Truth Drug7b+ **37
71Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 1
72Dodger DirectE3 5c **44
73Are t'FullE4 6a 1
74Floccipaucinihilipilificatious7b 17
75The Organ GrinderE5 6a  
76Witches Brew7b **72
77Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***72
78BalasE5 6b ***33
79Sabbath's Theatre7c *1
80Drenka8a+ ** 
81The Puppeteer8a+ **1
82RelaxE7 6b * 
83China Crisis7c+ *18
84Solidarity7b+ 9
85Mr Nice7c+ **15
86The Jekyll7c+ *18
87Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
88No Through Road6b 12
89Silk Road7b 7
90Highway 3956c+ ***140
91Open Road6c **149
92Arch RivalE5 6a *6
93Achilles HeelE4 6b 7
94ArchitraveE4 5c 2
95A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
96La PerlaE5 6b  
97No Man's LandE4 6a  
98Hazard CountryE5 6a  
 Climb nameGradex
99New Mystique6b+ *117
100Fatoliti's Cat6c 11
101MystiqueE3 5c 6
102Conglom Arete7a 18
103Quiet Flight7a+ *64
104Direct Flight7a+ *46
105Air Rage7c **1
106AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
107Perverted GeraniumE4 6b *2
108Waiting for the SunE5 6b *3
109Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
110No More Jumping to Conclusions7b+ 21
111Jumping to Conclusions7b 1
112The Alternative Option7a+ 7
113The Alternative Extra Option7b *120
114Optional ExtraE4 6b **12
115The Extra Option7a+ *2
116Butcher's DogE4 6a **6
117Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
118Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
119Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 15
120Another Clip In The Wall7a+ *8
121Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **1
122Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***2
123MantissaE5 6b 1
124Biological Need7c ***58
125The Yorkshire Ripper8b *** 
126Zero Option7c+ *11
127Soft Option8a **14
128Soft-Zero Option8a **3
129Double IndemnityE6 6b  
130Massala Martyr8b 1
131A Smarter Martyr8b **1
132Mistaken IdentityE5 7a *1
133WarlordE2 5c 2
134Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
135PeripatheticE5 6b * 
136Central WallE4 6a ***74
137White RushingE6 6c *1
138High OctaneE6 6b ** 
139White FeatherE5 6b 1
140ClawsE5 6a ***18
141The DiedreE2 5b ***82
142System Of A DownE4 6b **2
143Friends In High PlacesE4 5c *4
144Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **14
145KenE5 6a 1
146Ice Spurt SpecialE5 6b * 
147Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
148North Buttress DirectA3 **2
149Dominatrix7c ***89
150Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
151Progress8c+ *** 
152Northern Lights9a *** 
153True North8c ***4
154Full Tilt8b **5
155Urgent Action8a+ ***25
156The Vanilla Path8a+ ** 
157The Thumb8a ***21
158They Brush Me8a+ * 
159WYSIWYG7b *105
160Complete Control8a **7
161Over The Thumb8a **2
162Dead Calm8a ***41
163The OverlapE5 6b ***4
164NisusE6 6b **1
165HeresyE6 6c  
166Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *3
167RictusE5 6b *1
168The Last Gasp Finish7b 23
169Chris's Route7c 1
170Dr Crimp8b+ *1
171Slab Culture7b+ **61
172Subculture8a **38
173Myra Hindley7c *15
174Le Lapin8a **12
175Little Ernie7b+ **9
176Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
177Private Practice8a+ *6
178Grooved Arete8a+ ***21
179La Connection8b+ **1
180The Quick Fixe8a+ *2
181Dalliance8b+ ***2
182Brief Encounter8b *1
183More Rhubarb Faster7c+ **4
184Smooth Torquer7a+ *97
185Fit Of Peak7c 4
186Downright TheftE3 6a 2
187Prying EyesE1 5b *11
188New HorizonE3 5c 2
189Peeping TomHVS 5a 2
190Joint Enterprisef7C **1
191Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *1
192North Star9a *** 
193ExodusE8 6c 2
194ContrabloodE5 6b 1
195La Connection (Original)8b ***1
19650 for 5 - The Ashes link8a+ 1
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Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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