Kilnsey

Climbs 219 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Access notes
Parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015), Yorkshire Limestone (2005), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Yorkshire Limestone (Millenium Supplement) (1997), Yorkshire Limestone (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
2Elderberry Orchard3 7
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 5
4Orion's Belt3 *19
5Right Hand Route3 18
6Andrex5c 14
7Alternative5a 21
 DIRECTISSIMA AREA  
9Peepshow6b+ 70
10Sidekick7a+ *55
11Sideshow7a+ *79
12Sideline7b 7
13Metal Mickey8b * 
14Metal Guru7c **74
15Last Action Hero8a ***6
16Man With A Gun7c+ **38
17Action Man8a **1
18Bullet8a+ *8
19Cold Steal8a ***25
20Stolen8b ***7
21Steal The Show8b *** 
22Stolen Time8b ** 
23Halftime7c+ **1
24Technician8a+ **2
25Showtime8b ***1
26Hardy Annual7a+ *101
27Epic Adventures8c ** 
28Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
29The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **23
30Make Or BreakE5 6b * 
31Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
32Jump Leads To Wise BloodE6 6b 1
33WisebloodE6 6b ***4
34ContrabloodE5 6b 1
35Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
36Visitation7b 6b **20
37Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *1
38Deja VuE5 6b ***76
39Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
40Face ValueE5 6a **98
41Full ValueE5 6b **12
42ContraflowE5 6b *8
43The Big CE4 5c *22
44Guns in the Sky8b+  
45Added Value7a+ **24
46The Directissima6c ***424
47Next Direct7b+ * 
48Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***37
49Mandela8a+ ***8
50Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
51Dreamtime7c+ ***11
52Sticky Wicket7b *146
53Sticky Wicket/ The Ashes7c+ **1
54Indian Summer8b+ ***1
55The Ashes7c+ ***70
56LimeraceE6 6c 1
5750 for 57b+ *108
5850 for 5 - The Ashes link8a+ 2
59All Out8b+ *** 
 THE BULGE AREA  
61Original RouteE3 6a **4
62LickerishE5 6a  
63BrainstormE1 5b 3
64Captain TrippsE4 5c **5
65Stumped7a+ 5
66Detox7b+ *9
67De-Stumped7b+ * 
68Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
69Taking the Mick7a+ **16
70Bird BrainE5 6b 2
71Comedy7c ***231
72Pantomime7b+ **95
73BirdmenE5 6b **4
74Scoop De GraceE5 6b * 
75RubbleE6 6c *17
76Jenga8b+ *** 
77Nerve Ending7b *98
78Ecstacy8b ***11
79The Bulgelette6b+ *131
80The British LionsE5 6b  
81The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***43
82Travesty7c+ *3
83Tragedy7c+ **18
84I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
85Ground Effect7b **145
86The Truth Drug7b+ *67
87Last Year's Grade, This Year's ModelE5 6b 2
88Dodger DirectE3 5c **52
89Are t'FullE4 6a 1
90Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 18
 DIHEDRAL WALL AREA  
92The Organ GrinderE5 6a  
93Witches Brew7b **89
94Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***105
95BalasE5 6b ***34
96Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
97Drenka8a+ ***1
98The Puppeteer8a **4
99RelaxE7 6b *** 
100China Crisis7c+ **19
101Solidarity7b+ 11
102Mr Nice7c+ **22
103The Jekyll7c+ **24
104Dihedral WallE5 6b ***10
105No Through Road6b 17
106Silk Road7b *7
107Highway 3956c+ **193
108Open Road6c **189
109Open Road (original)E4 6a **1
110Arch RivalE5 6a *7
111Achilles HeelE4 6b *8
112ArchitraveE4 5c *2
113A Road To NowhereE5 6b 1
114La PerlaE5 6b  
115No Man's LandE4 6a 1
116Hazard CountryE5 6a 1
 OPTIONAL EXTRA AREA  
118New Mystique6b+ *173
119Fatoliti's Cat6c *23
120MystiqueE3 5c 7
121Conglom Arete7a *23
122Allakazam6c *15
123Quiet Flight (original)7a **2
124Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***144
125Air Rage7c+ *3
126AbracadaveraE3 5c *11
127Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **3
128Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
129Give Me Convenience7c  
130Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
131No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **24
132Jumping to Conclusions7b 2
133First Impresions7c * 
134The Alternative Option7a+ 11
135The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **140
136Optional ExtraE4 6b 14
137The Extra Option7a+ *5
138Fit as...E5 6a **1
139Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 BIOLOGICAL NEED AREA  
141Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
142Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 1
143Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 18
144Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 9
145Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **2
146Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
147MantissaE5 6b *2
148Biological Need7c ***78
149The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***1
150Zero Option7c+ **14
151Soft Option8a ***17
152Soft-Zero Option8a **5
153Double IndemnityE6 6b  
154Massala Martyr8b *1
155Joint Enterprisef7C **1
156A Smarter Martyr8b 1
157ExodusE7 6c 2
158Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
159WarlordE2 5c 3
160Warlord Direct StartE6 6c 1
 CENTRAL WALL  
162PeripatheticE5 6b * 
163Central WallE4 6a ***87
164White RushinE6 6b ***1
165High OctaneE6 6b ** 
166White FeatherE5 6b *1
167ClawsE5 6a ***19
168The DiedreE2 5b ***95
169System Of A DownE4 6b **2
170Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
171Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **15
172KenE5 6a 1
173Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
174Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 THE NORTH BUTTRESS  
176North Buttress DirectA3 **3
177Dominatrix7c ***126
178Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
179North Star9a *** 
180Progress8c+ ***1
181Northern Lights9a *** 
182Magnetic North8c+ *** 
183Full Tilt8b *11
184True North8c ***6
185Full On Action8b * 
186Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***33
187The Vanilla Path8a+ * 
188The Thumb8a ***29
189They Brush Me8a+ * 
190Over The Thumb8a ***4
 SUBCULTURE AREA  
192Complete Control8a **12
193WYSIWYG7b+ **147
194The Perfect Storm7c+ **1
195Dead Calm7c+ ***61
196NisusE6 6b **1
197HeresyE6 6c  
198The OverlapE5 6b ***5
199Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *4
200RictusE5 6b *2
201Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
202Suigeneris7c 1
203The Last Gasp Finish7b *33
204Slab Culture7b+ *80
205Subculture8a **59
206Le Lapin8a *14
207Myra Hindley7c *27
208Little Ernie7c 6b **11
209Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
210Private Practice8a+ *8
211Grooved Arete8a+ ***25
212La Connection8b *1
213La False Connection8b ***1
214The Quick Fixe8b ***2
215Dalliance8b+ ***2
216Brief Encounter8b *1
217More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
218Smooth Torquer7a+ *113
219Fit Of Peak7c *4
220Downright TheftE3 6a 3
221Prying EyesE1 5b 14
222New HorizonE3 5c 3
223Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 UNSORTED CLIMBS  
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