Climbs 229
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

Access Advice

Avoid climbing routes with obvious in-situ bird's nests (House Martin/Swallow) before the end of July.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South Buttress 
2Elderberry Orchard3 8
3Round The Mulberry Bush3 7
4Orion's Belt3 *21
5Right Hand Route3 20
6Andrex5c 16
7Alternative5a 23
 Directissima Area 
9Peepshow6b+ 80
10Sidekick7a+ *64
11Sideshow7a+ *99
12Sideline7b 13
13True South7b+ 4
14Metal Mickey8b * 
15Metal Guru7c **103
16Last Action Hero8a ***12
17Man With A Gun7c+ **49
18Action Man8a **1
19Bullet8a+ *15
20Cold Steal8a ***34
21Stolen8b ***16
22Steal The Show8b *** 
23Stolen Time8b ** 
24Halftime7c+ **1
25The Technician8a+ **2
26Showtime8b ***1
27Hardy Annual7a+ *121
28Freakshow8c ***1
29Epic Adventures8c ** 
30Mandela Training Traverse8a+ *2
31The SuperdirectissimaE5 6b **26
32Make Or Break
-
E5 6b * 
33Jump LeadsE6 6b *1
34Jump Leads To Wise Blood (aka Jump Leads 2000)E6 6b 1
35WisebloodE6 6b ***4
36ContrabloodE5 6b 1
37Diminishing Returns7c 6b *3
38Visitation7b 6b **37
39Vissy Vu (Visitation/Deja Vu link)7b *10
40Another Vu Point7a+ ***1
41Premonition8b+ *** 
42Deja VuE5 6b ***97
43Point of VuE5 6b ***1
44Trivial PursuitsE5 6b *1
45A New PursuitE4 6b **1
46Face ValueE5 6a **114
47Full ValueE5 6b **15
48ContraflowE5 6b *10
49C/DE5 6b ***1
50The Big VuE5 6b **1
51The Big CE4 5c *25
52Guns in the Sky8b+ 2
53Added Value
-
7a+ **36
54The Directissima6c ***530
55Next Direct7b+ * 
56Kilnsey Main OverhangA2 ***71
57Mandela8a+ ***28
58Aboriginal Sin7c+ * 
59Dreamtime7c+ ***18
60LBW7a *7
61Sticky Wicket7b *191
62Sticky Wicket - The Ashes (link up)8a **6
63Indian Summer8b+ ***4
64The Ashes7c+ ***111
65LimeraceE6 6c 1
6650 for 57b+ *143
6750 for 5 - The Ashes (link up)8a+ 6
68All Out8b+ *** 
 The Bulge Area 
70Original RouteE3 6a **4
71Lickerish
-
E5 6a  
72Brainstorm
-
E1 5b 3
73Captain TrippsE4 5c **7
74Stumped7a+ 5
75Detox7b+ *10
76De-Stumped7b+ * 
77Taking the Mick (trad)E5 6a 1
78Taking the Mick7a+ **43
79Bird Brain
-
E5 6b 2
80Comedy7c ***341
81Pantomime7b+ **122
82BirdmenE5 6b **4
83Scoop De Grace
-
E5 6b * 
84RubbleE6 6c *18
85Jenga8b+ *** 
86Nerve Ending7b *112
87Ecstacy8b ***17
88The Bulgelette6b+ *158
89The British Lions
-
E5 6b  
90The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans)8a ***83
91Travesty7c+ *3
92Tragedy7c+ **19
93I Ain't No Sponsored Hero7c **10
94Ground Effect7b **181
95The Truth Drug7b+ *88
96Last Year's Grade, This Year's Model
-
E5 6b 2
97Dodger DirectE3 5c **60
98Are t'FullE4 6a 1
99Floccinaucinihilipilificatious7b 19
 Dihedral Wall Area 
101The Organ GrinderE5 6a 1
102Witches Brew7b **112
103Frankie Comes to Kilnsey7b+ ***159
104BalasE5 6b ***38
105Sabbath's Theatre7c **1
106Drenka8a+ ***1
107The Puppeteer8a **7
108RelaxE7 6b *** 
109China Crisis7c+ **22
110Solidarity
-
7b+ 11
111Mr Nice7c+ **25
112The Jekyll7c+ **25
113Dihedral WallE5 6b ***13
114No Through Road6b 17
115Silk Road7b *7
116Highway 3956c+ **251
117Open Road6c **232
118Open Road (original)E4 6a **3
119Unity7b 1
120Arch RivalE5 6a *8
121Achilles Heel (Original)E4 6b *36
122Achilles Heel (retro bolted)6c+ 9
123ArchitraveE4 5c *3
124A Road To Nowhere
-
E5 6b 1
125La Perla
-
E5 6b  
126No Man's Land
-
E4 6a 1
127Hazard Country
-
E5 6a 1
 Optional Extra Area 
129MystiqueE3 5c 10
130New Mystique6b+ *241
131Fatoliti's Cat6c *27
132Conglom Arete7a *35
133Allakazam6c *78
134Quiet Flight (original)7a **8
135Quiet Flight Direct7a+ ***206
136Air Rage7c+ *3
137AbracadaveraE3 5c *12
138Perverted GeraniumE4 6b **4
139Waiting for the SunE5 6b *4
140Give Me Convenience7c  
141Jumpin' and Squeakin'E6 6b * 
142No More Jumping to Conclusions7c **26
143Jumping to Conclusions
-
7b 2
144First Impresions7c *4
145The Alternative Option7a+ 13
146The Alternative Extra Option7a+ **197
147Optional ExtraE4 6b 15
148The Extra Option7a+ *7
149Fit as...E5 6a **1
150Butcher's DogE4 6a **7
 Biological Need Area 
152Trauma TraverseE2 5b 1
153Innaccessible GullyHVS 5a 2
154Bird's Nest CrackE1 5b 22
155Another Clip In The Wall7a+ 10
156Picnic On Hanging RockE5 6b **3
157Exponential ExhaustionE7 6b ***3
158MantissaE5 6b *2
159Biological Need7c ***124
160The Yorkshire Ripper8b ***10
161Zero Option7c+ **17
162Soft Option8a ***27
163Soft-Zero Option8a **8
164Double Indemnity
-
E6 6b  
165Massala Martyr8b *1
166Joint Enterprisef7C **1
167A Smarter Martyr8b 1
168ExodusE7 6c 2
169Mistaken IdentityE5 7a 2
170WarlordE2 5c 4
171Warlord Direct Start
-
E6 6c 1
 Central Wall 
173PeripatheticE5 6b * 
174Central WallE4 6a ***118
175White RushinE6 6b ***1
176High OctaneE6 6b ** 
177White FeatherE5 6b *1
178ClawsE5 6a ***28
179The DiedreE2 5b ***116
180System Of A DownE4 6b **2
181Friends In High PlacesE4 5c **5
182Worlds In CollisionE4 5c **22
183KenE5 6a 1
184Ice Spurt SpecialE6 6b * 
185Division Of LabourE6 6c ** 
 The North Buttress 
187North Buttress Direct
-
A3 **3
188Dominatrix7c ***205
189Exit to Eden7c+ **11
190Drag Queen7c+ **10
191Northern Exposure - Part 18b+  
192North Star9a *** 
193Progress8c+ ***6
194Northern Lights9a *** 
195Magnetic North8c+ *** 
196Full Tilt8b *13
197True North8c ***7
198Full On Action8b * 
199Urgent Action (aka Under the Thumb)8a+ ***59
200The Vanilla Path8a+ *2
201Vanilla-Thumb8a+ **1
202The Thumb8a ***55
203They Brush Me8a+ * 
 WYSIWYG area 
205WYSIWYG7b+ **191
206Over The Thumb8a ***4
207Complete Control8a **12
208HeresyE6 6c  
209NisusE6 6b **2
210The Perfect Storm7c+ **4
211Dead Calm7c+ ***71
212The OverlapE5 6b ***5
 Subculture Area 
214Crank Stroke GrooveE5 6b *5
215Dr Crimp8b+ ***1
216Rictus7b *10
217Rictus (retro bolted)
-
7b *1
218Suigeneris7c 2
219The Last Gasp Finish7b *56
220Slab Culture7b+ *110
221Subculture8a **86
222Le Lapin8a *18
223Myra Hindley7c *42
224Little Ernie7c 6b **14
225Little Ernie Direct StartE8 6c  
226Private Practice8a+ *8
227Grooved Arete8a+ ***46
228La Connection8b *3
229La False Connection8b ***2
230The Quick Fixe8b ***3
231Dalliance8b+ ***3
232Brief Encounter8b *1
233More Rhubarb Faster7c+ *4
234Smooth Torquer7a+ *145
235Fit Of Peak7c *4
236Downright TheftE3 6a 4
237Prying EyesE1 5b 16
238New HorizonE3 5c 4
239Peeping TomHVS 5a 3
 Unsorted Climbs 

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