Climbs 309
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Access Advice

The bolting agreement with the Malham Parish Council (the owners) in Feb. 2008 is no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wing 
2Bobber Boots
-
VD 22
3Straight Crack
-
HS 55
4Straight Up
-
VS 4c *40
5Pedestal WallS *60
6The Thistle
-
HVS 5b *22
7Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9Wall And Crack
-
VD 28
10Fingers
-
VS 4c 27
11Crown of ThornsHVS 5b 5
12Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 9
14Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 30
15Lost CornerE3 6a 2
16Reluctant PassengerE3 6a *2
17RingoE5 6c *2
18RageE4 6b *2
19Short Groove
-
E2 5c *9
20Rose CornerE4 6a 2
21Memory LaneE3 6a 3
22The
-
E2 5c *9
23SternVS 4c *10
24Autonomy
-
E3 6a *7
25Cy-rilS *14
26Mistake
-
S 10
27Dilatory ClimbHS 4b *9
28Cube Root
-
E1 5b 20
29One Point Two Six (cube root two)E4 6a *1
30Square Root
-
E2 5c *10
31Pikestaff
-
VS 5a *22
32Flake Wall
-
S **53
33Rook
-
E2 5c 12
34Crow
-
E1 5c 6
35ChoughHVS 6a 3
36MagpieHVS 5c 3
37Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 7
38Raven
-
VS 5a 6
39Night MovesE3 6a *2
40Original RouteS **43
41Hampster JamVS 4c 7
42Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b *9
43Saplink
-
HVS 5b **23
44Box of ToolsE3 6a *2
45Ship of FoolsE4 6b *1
46Warspite
-
E3 6a *9
47Going DutchE3 6a *3
48AidE4 6b 1
49Ephedrine InfluxE3 5c 1
50The Well Oiled MachineE4 6a 1
51Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a **6
52The CrabHVS 5b *3
53Joe SpiveyE2 5c 2
54MajidaeE2 5c 2
55HangoverHVS 5a 7
56Vagabond
-
E2 5c *8
57ChrysalisE2 5c 2
58Shining UsuE2 5b 2
59Birgus LatroE5 6a 1
60The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 5
61Percy ThrowerHVS 5a 1
 Beck Wall 
63Big DripHVS 5b 4
64Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b *7
67The Pink Pinky Goes to MalhamE3 6a 9
68Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 4
 The Catwalk 
70Brilliant, Brilliant6c 62
71Bon-Appetite7b *6
72The Highlife7b+ *6
73Just Not in Lust7c **10
74Mighty Fine Ass7c+ ***9
75Appetite7a+ **250
76Mule Variation7b *34
77Henry's Route7c+ **8
78Yosemite Wall7a+ ***264
79Obligatory Finish7b+ 6b 2
80Against the Grain7a+ **144
81Against the Wall7a 5
82Taking the Space7b ***86
83Taking the RiseE4 6a *3
84Hands of Time7c *3
85Space Race7b+ ***161
86Space Invaders7c+ **19
87Tremelo7c ***100
88The Minimum7a+ *66
89Minimum Fuss7c **11
90Mescalito7c+ ***96
91New Dawn7c ***197
92Twisted8a **3
93Vogue7c+ **6
94Lovatt Link8a **1
95Baboo-Baboo8a ***45
96Straightened8a **19
97Straight Jacket8b  
98G.B.H.8a+ ***51
99A.B.H.8a+ 2
100Zoolook8a ***103
101Well Dunne Finish8b ***4
102Predator8b ***30
103The Terminator8b+ *** 
104Cry Freedom8c ***10
105The Great Escape8b+ ***3
106Mid Ledge Spread8a+ **13
107The Maximum7c+ **51
108Austrian Oak8b ***29
109Magnetic Fields8b **14
110Overnite Sensation8a+ **42
111Overshadow9a+ *** 
112Piggy Bank WallA3 ***2
113Energy Vampire8a+ *13
114Connect 48a **25
115Connect 58a+ **1
116Raindogs8a ***273
117Rainshadow9a ***2
118Chiselling the Dragon7c *86
119The DirectissimaA2 11
120Seventh Aardvark7b **292
121Bat Route8c ***7
122Batman9a *** 
123Bat Shadow8c+ ***1
124Raining Bats and Dogs8c ***2
125Rated PG7a+ *191
126Consenting Adults7a **845
127Thriller7c+ 13
128Victor Hugo8b *** 
129Personal Services7b *104
130Free and Even Easier7a+ **407
131Idefix8b *** 
132Bongo Fury7b **104
133Something Stupid7b *239
134Totally Free8b *** 
135Totally Free II8b ***3
136The Groove8a+ ***17
137Groovy Baby8a **4
138Unjustified8b+ ***10
139Overjustified
-
8c ***2
140The SuperdirectissimaA2 ***6
141King SwingA2 **4
142Chocolate Logger7c *21
143Scavenger8a *4
144Wasted Youth7b **156
145Power Ranger8b+ ***1
146Rose Coronary7a **623
147Transformer8c ** 
148Queen of Harts7c *9
149Hartley Hare7a+ **216
150Hardly There6c+ *28
151Puddle Jumper7a+ *384
152Betty Bullwhip7a+ 7
153Snidely Whiplash7a+ 5
154Dudley D-Good7b 5
155Just Another Dead End Job7a *171
156A Career with ProspectsE5 6a *15
157Extra OverE4 6a *26
158Bolt Revolt7a *98
159AfterburnE4 6a *31
160Sycophants7a *269
161Skyjack7c+ *4
162Brooklyn Girls7a *155
163Frankenstein7a+ **308
164Begozi and the Ledge Lizards6a+ 341
165Redpoint No PointE5 6b 5
166The Angel Gabriella7b+ *14
167Burning Rubber Necklace7a *42
168Soweto Sunset
-
7a **7
169Vociferous Fledglings6c+ *13
170The Scene of the Crime6c *47
171Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
172Hyperspace6b+ *70
173Hyperactive HousewifeE3 6a  
 Upper Wall - Left 
175Romance and RealityE5 6a *2
176DoukE3 5c 2
177ScaremongerE4 6a 1
178CodicilE5 6a 1
179CaveatE5 6b 2
180Cadenza/Commorient7b **1
181Cadenza
-
7a+ **6
182CommorientE5 6b 2
183The Man and the Myth7c+ ** 
184The Moon's Apprentice7a 3
185Crash DiveE5 6b  
186Local Hero7c+ ***2
187Local Roof8a ***1
188Niagara8a+ *** 
189Soft Centre7b+ *4
190Rive Gauche7b+ *2
 Upper Wall - Right 
192CentrespreadE5 6b **1
193Free and Easy7c **38
194An Uneasy Peace7c+ **4
195Renaissance8a ***4
196Breach of the Peace8a ***4
197Climb of the Century8a+ ***2
198L'Ob Session7c+ ***33
199Obsession7b+ ***194
200Total Eclipse8c+ ***1
201The New Age Traveller8a ***44
202N'Obsession7c+ **3
203Herbie7c+ ***91
204Conehead8a+ **4
205Main Overhang8a **28
206Main Overhang (aid)A2 **17
207Toadal Recall8a **44
208The Toad of Beck Hall7b+ *36
209Toad Licker7c *9
210Toadally Cool8a+  
211Serious Young Toads7c **16
212The Last Toad7b+ *34
213Conceptual7b *11
214Conceptual Continuity8a **3
215The Last Waltz7a+ **32
216Seventh ToadE6 6b *6
217Gorgan DirectE5 6b **10
218Gorgan DirectishE4 6b **9
219Duck DiveE5 6b *23
220Jilted JohnE5 6a 1
221Gravity7b *17
222Wicked Gravity8b ** 
223Donald DuckedE5 6b 8
224Laughter7c+  
 The Terrace 
226Letterbox WallVS 4c 12
227Terrace CrackHVS 5c 12
228The Thin CrackE1 6a 3
229Problem WallE2 6a 1
230Terrace StairwayD 7
231Cove CrackE3 6a 3
232Good CrackE4 6c  
233Ivy CornerVS 4b 14
234Grandfather ClockE2 6a *6
235Butch CassidyE4 6b **8
236Cat on a Hot Tin RoofE5 6b 4
237Black DykeE3 5c *15
238Terrace WallVS 5a **59
239Terrace Wall DirectE2 6a *3
240Wild West HeroE5 6b **12
241Sundance WallE2 5c ***72
242Swift AttackE3 5c ***32
243Static ContrastsE5 6b *1
244The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b *10
245RipsnorterE2 5b 5
246Dangerous AcquaintancesE6 6b 1
247Midnight CowboyE3 5c ***59
248New Dawn FadesE5 6a ***7
249MotomoronE3 6b 2
250Motomoron DirectE4 6b 1
251LimehillE5 6a ***19
 The Right Wing - Carnage Wall 
253Amber NectarE6 6b **3
254GreystokeE6 6c ** 
255Sitting DucksE5 6a 2
256Stone TentE2 5c *2
257The Macabre
-
E3 5b 5
258Macabre (pitch 3)E1 5a  
259TarzanE4 6a *3
260Forth ComingE5 6b 1
261Second ComingE5 6b **1
262CarnageE2 5b ***180
263Chasing the DragonE5 6b ***3
264More Funky Than MonkeyE5 6b **3
265Mulatto WallE3 5c ***106
266Going ApeE5 6a 1
267Bad BrainE4 6a **34
268El CoronelE5 6b ***6
269Third Party OnlyE6 6b 1
270Rubble Without a CauseE5 6b 1
271The Country of ManE4 6b 1
272Seventh GradeE5 6b *3
273Carnage Left-handE1 5b ***142
274ScorpioHVS 5a *33
275Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a *6
 The Right Wing - Wombat Wall 
277Wind and WutheringE3 5c **45
278Monkey's UncleE3 6a *4
279Crossbones/East WallHVS 5a **57
280East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 23
281CrossbonesE2 5c ***169
282Thin LizzyE5 6b *1
283Articulated LorisE5 6a *3
284Slender LorisE4 6a ***78
285Doubting ThomasE5 6b ***36
286The Annihilation MixE3 6b *1
287WombatE2 5c ***205
288Regatta de BlancE5 6a *18
289ClapperclawE4 6c *2
290Cathay PacificE4 *5
291Rounded HorizonsE4 5c 2
292Kirkby WallHVS 5b **131
293Junkyard AngelHVS 5b ***175
294The KylinHVS 5b **49
295The CavernHVS 5a *63
296Y.A.B.O.E4 6b 1
297The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b *7
298LimpetE2 11
299Friday the 13thE3 6a **69
300DaytonaE3 5b *19
301Vertical CrackE2 5c 2
302Overhanging CrackHVS 5b 9
303Just Another Very Severe (Hard)E3 5c  
304Pikedaw WallHVS 5a ***230
305OlafHVS 5a *76
306CanuteE1 5c 5
307ButterfingersE2 5c 7
308ClubfootVS 4c ***229
309SwingoverVS 5a **110
310Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c *38
311SwingsideHVS 5b *9
312FrivolousVS 5a 6
313Lightning CrackVS 5a 28
314Route OneVS 4c 11
315The Right Wing GirdleE2 5c ***14
316Pumpwater meets the HulkE5 6b ***3
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
318Over the TopE7 6c **1

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