Climbs 315
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

RichC Highstepping on PuddleJumper on a grey wet summer Sunday © ChrisJD

Crag features

Central Walls of steep compact limestone with the best sport climbing in the Pennines (best grades F7a to F8c). A right wing of superb trad lines with the best routes in the HVS to E4 category. A left wing with worthwhile short,easier routes (S to E1) and short technical but less popular, hard trad up to E5. [Dave Musgrove]

Restricted Access

There is a bolting agreement between the BMC and Malham Parish Council (the landowners) to ensure that the noise of bolting doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experiance of this incredible natural beauty spot. The agreement is for no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

Wild camping is not allowed near the Cove or fields around - please use one of the campsites at Riverside or Gordale instead. In addition , please don't park anywhere other than the locations listed in parking below. Following this simple code of conduct is crucially important in maintaining good relations between climbers and the landowner and preventing access problems.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
It'd be great if this was split the same as in Northern Limestone, i.e. upper tier was separated out?
Paul B - 24/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wing 
2Bobber Boots
-
VD 22
3Straight Crack
-
HS 62
4Straight Up
-
VS 4c *44
5Pedestal WallS *65
6The Thistle
-
HVS 5b *24
7Theist
-
E1 6b 4
8Th-Rows
-
HVS 5b 10
9Wall And Crack
-
VD 31
10Fingers
-
VS 4c 28
11Crown of ThornsHVS 5b 6
12Tiara
-
E2 6a 4
13Coronet Crack
-
HVS 5a 10
14Crazy Paving
-
VS 4c 33
15Lost CornerE3 6a 2
16Reluctant PassengerE3 6a *2
17RingoE5 6c *2
18RageE4 6b *2
19Short Groove
-
E2 5c *9
20Rose CornerE4 6a 2
21Memory LaneE3 6a 3
22The
-
E2 5c *10
23SternVS 4c *12
24Autonomy
-
E3 6a *7
25Cy-rilS *16
26Mistake
-
S 12
27Dilatory ClimbHS 4b *11
28Cube Root
-
E1 5b 23
29One Point Two Six (cube root two)E4 6a *1
30Square Root
-
E2 5c *12
31Pikestaff
-
VS 5a *24
32Flake Wall
-
S **60
33Rook
-
E2 5c 14
34Crow
-
E1 5c 7
35ChoughHVS 6a 4
36MagpieHVS 5c 4
37Jackdaw
-
HVS 5a 7
38Raven
-
VS 5a 8
39Night MovesE3 6a *2
40Original RouteS **45
41Hampster JamVS 4c 9
42Wish You Were Here
-
E2 5b *12
43Saplink
-
HVS 5b **27
44Box of ToolsE3 6a *2
45Ship of FoolsE4 6b *1
46Warspite
-
E3 6a *10
47Going DutchE3 6a *3
48AidE4 6b 1
49Ephedrine InfluxE3 5c 1
50The Well Oiled MachineE4 6a 1
51Sarcophagus
-
E3 6a **6
52The CrabHVS 5b *4
53Joe SpiveyE2 5c 2
54MajidaeE2 5c 2
55HangoverHVS 5a 8
56Vagabond
-
E2 5c *8
57ChrysalisE2 5c 2
58Shining UsuE2 5b 2
59Birgus LatroE5 6a 1
60The Dalesman
-
VS 4c 5
61Percy ThrowerHVS 5a 1
 Beck Wall 
63Big DripHVS 5b 4
64Rain Drops
-
E4 6b 3
65Rain Dances
-
E4 6a 2
66Rodney's Route
-
E2 5b *9
67The Pink Pinky Goes to MalhamE3 6a 10
68Bolts Screw You Up
-
E3 6a 4
 The Catwalk 
70Brilliant, Brilliant6c 76
71Bon-Appetite7b *6
72The Highlife7b+ *8
73Just Not in Lust7c **11
74Mighty Fine Ass7c+ ***15
75Appetite7a+ **300
76Mule Variation7b *42
77Henry's Route7c+ **12
78Yosemite Wall7a+ ***409
79Obligatory Finish7b+ 6b 2
80Against the Grain7a+ **173
81Against the Wall7a 11
82Taking the Space7b ***113
83Taking the RiseE4 6a *3
84Hands of Time7c *3
85Space Race7b+ ***205
86Space Invaders7c+ **35
87Tremelo7c ***133
88The Minimum7a+ *69
89Minimum Fuss7c **11
90Mescalito7c+ ***126
91New Dawn7c ***272
92Twisted8a **3
93Vogue7c+ **7
94Lovatt Link8a **1
95Baboo-Baboo8a ***66
96Straightened8a **30
97Straight Jacket8b  
98G.B.H.8a+ ***79
99A.B.H.8a+ 2
100Zoolook8a ***145
101Well Dunne Finish8b ***5
102Predator8b ***55
103Sabotage8c+  
104The Terminator8b+ *** 
105Cry Freedom8c ***10
106Something for Nothing8c **1
107The Great Escape8b+ ***3
108Mid Ledge Spread8a+ **16
109The Maximum7c+ **62
110Austrian Oak8b ***26
111Magnetic Fields8b **15
112Overnite Sensation8a+ **50
113Overshadow9a+ *** 
114Piggy Bank WallA3 ***2
115Energy Vampire8a+ *14
116Connect 48a **26
117Connect 58a+ **4
118Raindogs8a ***294
119Rainshadow9a ***5
120Chiselling the Dragon7c *97
121The DirectissimaA2 11
122Seventh Aardvark7b **343
123Seventh Dragon7b+ **4
124Bat Route8c ***23
125Batman9a *** 
126Bat Shadow8c+ ***1
127Raining Bats and Dogs8c ***4
128Rated PG7a+ *218
129Consenting Adults7a **935
130Thriller7c+ 19
131Victor Hugo8b *** 
132Personal Services7b *109
133Free and Even Easier7a+ **460
134Idefix8b *** 
135Bongo Fury7b **126
136Something Stupid7b *272
137Totally Free8b *** 
138Totally Free II8b ***3
139The Groove8a+ ***50
140Groovy Baby8a **12
141Unjustified8b+ ***11
142Overjustified
-
8c ***2
143The SuperdirectissimaA2 ***6
144King SwingA2 **4
145Chocolate Logger7c *21
146Scavenger8a *4
147Wasted Youth7b **196
148Power Ranger8b+ ***1
149Rose Coronary7a **745
150Transformer8c ** 
151Queen of Harts7c *9
152Hartley Hare7a+ **258
153Hardly There6c+ *34
154Puddle Jumper7a+ *424
155Betty Bullwhip7a+ 8
156Snidely Whiplash7a+ 6
157Dudley D-Good7b 6
158Just Another Dead End Job7a *189
159A Career with ProspectsE5 6a *19
160Extra OverE4 6a *45
161Bolt Revolt7a *133
162AfterburnE4 6a *41
163Sycophants7a *306
164Skyjack7c+ *4
165Brooklyn Girls7a *177
166Frankenstein7a+ **347
167The Under Dunn Start7b *4
168Whodunnit6c+ *23
169Baba O'Riley8a *1
170Begozi and the Ledge Lizards6a+ 383
171Redpoint No PointE5 6b 5
172The Angel Gabriella7b+ *15
173Burning Rubber Necklace7a *45
174Soweto Sunset
-
7a **13
175Vociferous Fledglings6c+ *13
176The Scene of the Crime6c *56
177Brain Dead Dave
-
E4 6a 2
178Hyperspace6b+ *83
179Hyperactive HousewifeE3 6a  
 Upper Wall - Left 
181Romance and RealityE5 6a *2
182DoukE3 5c 2
183ScaremongerE4 6a 1
184CodicilE5 6a 1
185CaveatE5 6b 2
186Cadenza/Commorient7b **1
187Cadenza
-
7a+ **6
188CommorientE5 6b 2
189The Man and the Myth7c+ ** 
190The Moon's Apprentice7a 3
191Crash DiveE5 6b 1
192Local Hero7c+ ***2
193Local Roof8a ***1
194Niagara8a+ *** 
195Soft Centre7b+ *4
196Rive Gauche7b+ *2
 Upper Wall - Right 
198CentrespreadE5 6b **1
199Free and Easy7c **50
200An Uneasy Peace7c+ **6
201Renaissance8a ***5
202Breach of the Peace8a ***4
203Climb of the Century8a+ ***2
204L'Ob Session7c+ ***48
205Obsession7b+ ***254
206Total Eclipse8c+ ***1
207The New Age Traveller8a ***51
208N'Obsession7c+ **3
209Herbie7c+ ***117
210Conehead8a+ **4
211Main Overhang8a **28
212Main Overhang (aid)A2 **17
213Toadal Recall8a **64
214The Toad of Beck Hall7b+ *38
215Toad Licker7c *10
216Toadally Cool8a+  
217Serious Young Toads7c **19
218The Last Toad7b+ *35
219Conceptual7b *11
220Conceptual Continuity8a **3
221The Last Waltz7a+ **40
222Seventh ToadE6 6b *7
223Gorgan DirectE5 6b **11
224Gorgan DirectishE4 6b **10
225Duck DiveE5 6b *24
226Jilted JohnE5 6a 1
227Gravity7b *20
228Wicked Gravity8b ** 
229Donald DuckedE5 6b 9
230Laughter7c+  
 The Terrace 
232Letterbox WallVS 4c 13
233Terrace CrackHVS 5c 15
234The Thin CrackE1 6a 3
235Problem WallE2 6a 1
236Terrace StairwayD 7
237Cove CrackE3 6a 3
238Good CrackE4 6c  
239Ivy CornerVS 4b 15
240Grandfather ClockE2 6a *6
241Butch CassidyE4 6b **11
242Cat on a Hot Tin RoofE5 6b 4
243Black DykeE3 5c *16
244Terrace WallVS 5a **64
245Terrace Wall DirectE2 6a *3
246Wild West HeroE5 6b **12
247Sundance WallE2 5c ***84
248Swift AttackE3 5c ***37
249Static ContrastsE5 6b *1
250The Stone Tent
-
E2 5b *10
251RipsnorterE2 5b 5
252Dangerous AcquaintancesE6 6b 1
253Midnight CowboyE3 5c ***73
254New Dawn FadesE5 6a ***7
255MotomoronE3 6b 2
256Motomoron DirectE4 6b 4
257LimehillE5 6a ***24
 The Right Wing - Carnage Wall 
259Amber NectarE6 6b **3
260GreystokeE6 6c ** 
261Sitting DucksE5 6a 2
262Stone TentE2 5c *2
263The Macabre
-
E3 5b 5
264Macabre (pitch 3)E1 5a 1
265TarzanE4 6a *3
266Forth ComingE5 6b 1
267Second ComingE5 6b **1
268CarnageE2 5b ***227
269Chasing the DragonE5 6b ***4
270More Funky Than MonkeyE5 6b **2
271Mulatto WallE3 5c ***114
272Going ApeE5 6a 1
273Bad BrainE4 6a **37
274El CoronelE5 6b ***6
275Third Party OnlyE6 6b 1
276Rubble Without a CauseE5 6b 1
277The Country of ManE4 6b 1
278Seventh GradeE5 6b *2
279Carnage Left-handE1 5b ***190
280ScorpioHVS 5a *38
281Scorpio Direct finish
-
HVS 5a *5
 The Right Wing - Wombat Wall 
283Wind and WutheringE3 5c **54
284Monkey's UncleE3 6a *4
285Crossbones/East WallHVS 5a **74
286East Wall Route
-
E2 6a, 5a 26
287CrossbonesE2 5c ***191
288Thin LizzyE5 6b *1
289Articulated LorisE5 6a *3
290Slender LorisE4 6a ***94
291Doubting ThomasE5 6b ***40
292The Annihilation MixE3 6b *1
293WombatE2 5c ***228
294Regatta de BlancE5 6a *18
295ClapperclawE4 6c *1
296Cathay PacificE4 *5
297Rounded HorizonsE4 5c 2
298Kirkby WallHVS 5b **148
299Junkyard AngelHVS 5b ***196
300The KylinHVS 5b **53
301The CavernHVS 5a *69
302Y.A.B.O.E4 6b 1
303The Cavern Direct
-
E1 5b *7
304LimpetE2 10
305Friday the 13thE3 6a **75
306DaytonaE3 5b *20
307Vertical CrackE2 5c 2
308Overhanging CrackHVS 5b 11
309Just Another Very Severe (Hard)E3 5c  
310Pikedaw WallHVS 5a ***270
311OlafHVS 5a *92
312CanuteE1 5c 5
313ButterfingersE2 5c 7
314ClubfootVS 4c ***271
315SwingoverVS 5a **124
316Swingover Direct
-
VS 4c *40
317SwingsideHVS 5b *10
318FrivolousVS 5a 8
319Lightning CrackVS 5a 35
320Route OneVS 4c 13
321The Right Wing GirdleE2 5c ***15
322Pumpwater meets the HulkE5 6b ***4
323Over the TopE7 6c **1

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