Climbs 202
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 59m a.s.l
Faces SW

Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Access Advice

No issues reported.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South of Upper Tier 
2The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
 The Loathsome Cleft 
4Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b *1
6Hale Bop
-
E3 5c 1
7FEU 123ELF
-
XS 1
 Skull Zawn 
9The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c * 
10Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a ** 
11Sea WitchE6 6a ***2
12Mor Mochyn
-
E3 5c * 
13Mochyn Bach
-
E4 6a * 
14Brain in a Vat
-
E2 5b * 
 Trinity House Walls 
16Aussie Rules
-
VS 4c * 
17Sam Shore
-
E1 5b *1
18Ray Mears
-
VD  
19Troy Tempest
-
S  
20Oink
-
HVS 4c  
21Aqua Marina
-
E2 5b * 
22El Presidente
-
E5 6b ** 
23Idlevice
-
E5 6b * 
24Scud
-
E3 6a ** 
25Karaoke Bar
-
E6 6b ** 
26Friend or Anemone
-
E4 6a ** 
27The HoodE2 5c **1
28Walking the Plankton
-
E5 6a * 
29International Rescue
-
HVS 5b *2
30Mr Waverley
-
HVS 5a **1
31Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
-
HVS 5b *3
32Start Me Up
-
HVS 5a * 
33Parker
-
E3 5c  
34Catch a Fire
-
E1 5b  
35Rapping
-
VS 4b  
 Thunderbird Zawn 
37ThrushVS 4c 2
38Napolean SoloVS 4c *1
39Man from Uncle
-
E1 5a *5
40The Prisoner
-
E2 5a *1
 South Stack Island 
 Mousetrap Zawn 
43Linkage
-
VS 1
44A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a *2
45Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a *2
46Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a **2
47Hysteresis
-
E4 5c ***14
48Catatonia
-
E5 6a **2
49The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b ***3
50Primate
-
E2 5b **33
51Primevil
-
HVS 5a 3
52Rosebud
-
E5 6a **1
53The Green SlabHVS 4c *37
54Dai You Late
-
E6 6b *1
55Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c *1
56MousetrapE2 5a ***368
57Death Trap
-
E5 5b **2
58Death Trap DirectE6 5c ***2
59The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a *1
60Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a **1
61MantrapE3 5b **15
62Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a **3
63BedlamE3 5b *3
64ValdiniXS 5a 3
65Locarno
-
XS 5b  
66The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b * 
67The New Girdle
-
E1 5b *3
 Left Hand Red Wall 
69Vena Cave
-
VS 4c 1
70BSB
-
E1 5b  
71Auricle
-
HVS 4c 2
72The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
73Ceefax
-
HVS 4c 1
74AlligatorE2 5b *4
75CannibalE4 5c **24
76SchittlegruberE6 6b ***9
77Left-hand Red WallE3 5c **32
78Ramalina
-
E6 6b **2
79Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c *2
80Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a **2
81Heart of GoldE5 6a ***7
82Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a ***13
83The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b *3
84The Super Duper CalebreseE6 6b ***1
85The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b ***3
86PaganE4 5c ***38
87Salem
-
E5 6a *4
88Deygo
-
E3 5c **20
89Deygo/Infidel DirectE3 5c **2
90Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b **2
91 Come to MotherE7 6a  
92Infidel
-
E3 5c *10
93Infidel Direct
-
E4 5c **6
94Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a **5
95Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a **1
96AnarchistE1 5b *97
97Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c 1
98Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a 1
99Care in the Community
-
E5 6a *1
100The Missionary
-
E4 5c **4
101The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c ***1
102The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c *1
 The Promontory 
104Puritan
-
VS 4c 1
105Project!!!E11 7a  
106Athiest
-
E4 6a *1
107Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c 1
108Heathen
-
E1 5b 1
109The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b *1
110This is the Sea
-
E5 6a *3
111The Featherstone
-
E5 6b *1
112Smear CampaignE8 6c **1
113Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c ** 
114Into the Light
-
E2 5c 1
115Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
116Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a 1
 Right Hand Red Wall 
118The Cree
-
E3 6a *11
119The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a *5
120Roger Melly
-
E4 6a 1
121Television RouteE4 5c ***14
122The safer Start!
-
E4 5c 2
123Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a **5
124Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
125Redshift
-
E4 5c **22
126Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a *1
127Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c 1
128Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 13
129WendigoE2 5b ***101
130Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 
131Blue Remembered HillsE3 5c ***27
132Red Haze
-
E4 5c *14
133Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b **9
134Red WallE2 5b ***132
135FantasiaE3 5c ***42
136A Brown Study
-
E3 5c *2
137Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c **2
138Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b *2
139The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a *1
140Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c *1
141The Maze
-
E4 5c *** 
 Castell Helen 
143Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c *1
144Nematoid
-
E3 5c 1
145Black Light
-
HVS 4c *5
146Woodlight
-
HS 4a * 
147Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD * 
148Lighthouse AreteVS 4b **927
149Lighthouse Arete DirectVS 4c **384
150Lighthouse Arete Direct/BlancoHVS 5a ***93
151A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 32
152BlancoHVS 5a **321
153Poseidon
-
VS 4c *108
154Poseidon/BlancoHVS 5a **55
155Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a *2
156PelVS 4c **473
157Freebird
-
E1 5b **55
158The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a 1
159North West PassageE1 5b ***627
160RapVS 5a **765
161True Moments
-
E1 5b **56
162Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c 1
163AtlantisE1 5c **229
164True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b ***125
165Atlantis/True Moments/FreebirdE2 5b ***196
166limping lisa
-
E2 5b *16
167Sloe PassageE4 6a *1
168Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b *1
169Atlantic Wall "1990"E3 5c *12
170Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b *2
171Hanging Out At GlastonburyE4 5c ***19
172Obelisk
-
E6 6b **2
173Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b ***4
174Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c **2
175Kalahari
-
E3 5c **145
176Kalahari HighwayE4 6a ***7
177Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b *2
178Gobi
-
HVS 5a 4
179Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a *22
180Castell Helen GirdleE1 5b *25
 Yellow Walls 
182The SavageE2 5b *140
183Book of AgesE5 6b *4
184Perygl
-
E3 5c **42
185YouE4 6a *5
186The DrunkE6 6b **11
187The MoonE3 5c ***363
188Me
-
E6 6a **11
189The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b **2
190The CowE5 6a ***52
191Ludwig
-
E6 6b ***18
192Beefhoven
-
E6 6b 2
193The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b **2
194Dogs of War
-
E4 5c **23
195The Sind
-
E3 5b **78
196Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c ***4
197Creeping LemmaE2 5c ***108
198The Big Softy
-
E6 6a 2
199Paddington
-
E3 5c  
200PterodactylE3 5b **4
20193,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c *3
202Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b *2
203Not Yellow Wall Escape RouteHVS 4c 2
 Blacksmith's Zawn 
205The Compass
-
E1 5b *4
206The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b *2
207Ermintrude
-
E6 6a **2
208Angel Dust
-
E6 6a ***3
209Thug
-
E7 6b *** 
210The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b ** 
211Red Rocket
-
E6 6b 1
212Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b **2
213Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b *** 
214Back to Black SmithE2 5b *1
215The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS ***3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Martin Haworth