Gogarth South Stack

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 59m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Access notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.


Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MOUSETRAP ZAWN  
2HysteresisE4 5c ***10
3PrimateE2 5b **30
4PrimevilHVS 4c 1
5RosebudE5 6a ** 
6The Green SlabHVS 4c *32
7Helmet BoilerE5 5c * 
8MousetrapE2 5a ***224
9MantrapE3 5b **8
10Another Roadside AttractionE5 6a **1
11Death Trap DirectE6 5c 1
12The New GirdleE1 5b 2
13ValdiniHVS 2
14BedlamE3 5b 1
 RED WALLS  
16AuricleHVS 4c 1
17AlligatorE2 5b *2
18CannibalE4 5c **17
19SchittlegruberE6 6b ***5
20Left-hand Red WallE3 5c **27
21Heart of GoldE5 6a ***3
22Heart of Gold DirectE6 6a ***8
23The Super CalabreseE8 6b *1
24The Super Duper CalebreseE6 6b ***1
25The Enchanted Broccoli GardenE7 6b *** 
26PaganE4 5c ***34
27SalemE5 6b *2
28Outside the asylumE5 6a **2
29DeygoE3 5c **18
30Deygo/Infidel DirectE3 5c ** 
31Come to MotherE7 6a  
32InfidelE3 5c *7
33Infidel DirectE4 5c **4
34AnarchistE1 5b *84
35The MissionaryE4 5c **1
36The Cruel SeamE5 6b * 
37This is the SeaE5 6a *2
38The FeatherstoneE5 6b * 
39Smear CampaignE8 6c **1
40The CreeE3 6a *7
41The Electrification of the Soviet UnionE4 6a *3
42Television RouteE4 5c ***11
43Khmer RougeE5 6a **2
44RedshiftE3 5c **19
45Red Wall Escape RouteVS 4c 11
46WendigoE2 5b ***74
47Blue Remembered HillsE3 5c ***18
48Red HazeE4 5c *10
49Rapture of the DeepE4 5b **5
50Red WallE2 5b ***118
51FantasiaE3 5c ***32
52Communication BreakdownE3 5c * 
53The MazeE4 5c *** 
 CASTELL HELEN  
55Black LightHVS 4c 4
56Lighthouse AreteVS 4b **727
57Lighthouse Arete DirectVS 4c **301
58Lighthouse Arete Direct/BlancoHVS 5a ***75
59Where Puffins Daren'tHVS 5a *19
60Castell Helen GirdleE1 5b *17
61PoseidonVS 4c *82
62Poseidon/BlancoHVS 5a **49
63BlancoHVS 5a **238
64A State of SaturationHVS 5a 17
65FreebirdE1 5b **41
66PelVS 4c **360
67North West PassageE1 5b ***443
68RapVS 5a **616
69True MomentsE1 5b *43
70True Moments/FreebirdE1 5b ***117
71Atlantis/True Moments/FreebirdE2 5b ***125
72limping lisaE2 5b *8
73AtlantisE1 5c *189
74Atlantic WallE3 5c *11
75Hanging Out At GlastonburyE4 5c ***7
76ObeliskE5 6b ** 
77Free Stone HengeE7 6c ***1
78KalahariE3 5c **115
79Kalahari HighwayE5 6a ***5
80GobiHVS 5a 3
 YELLOW WALLS  
82The SavageE2 5b *115
83Book of AgesE5 6b *2
84PeryglE3 5c *34
85YouE4 6a *4
86The DrunkE6 6b **7
87The MoonE3 5c ***270
88MeE6 6a **5
89The CowE5 6a ***42
90LudwigE6 6b ***11
91Dogs of WarE4 5c **18
92The SindE3 5b **68
93Isis is AngryE7 6c ***2
94Creeping LemmaE2 5c ***83
95PterodactylE3 5b ** 
96Not Yellow Wall Escape RouteHVS 4c 1
 PENLAS ROCK  
98MirageVS 1
99Penlas PinnacleVS 4c 1
100Stochastic GrooveVS 4c 1
101SerendipityVS 4c 1
102Plimsoll LineVS  
103NonenityVS  
104MoonshineVS  
105Triffid GrooveVS  
106NatalieXS  
 BLACKSMITH'S ZAWN  
108The CompassE1 5b *3
109The Magic RoundaboutE6 6b * 
110ErmintrudeE6 6a ** 
111Angel DustE6 6a ***1
112ThugE7 6b *** 
113The Bogle RoofE6 6b ** 
114Red RocketE6 6b  
115Seven Types Of AngularityE5 6b **1
116Bats In The BelfryE7 6b *** 
117Back to Black SmithE2 5b *1
118The Light That Didn't ShineXS ***2
 SMURF ZAWN  
120Funky GibbonE3 5b  
121King of the SwingersE3 5c ** 
122Wall Left Of King Of The SwingersE2  
123King LouisE5 6a  
124Free Nelson Mandela NowE5 6a * 
125Green LightVS 4c ***12
126Sun Sea and SmurfE2 5c,5b * 
127SmurfE2 5b **11
128GnomeE2 5c *2
129ElfE1 5b *1
130Dai HardE5 6b * 
131BaluHVS 5a  
132The Smurf GirdleE2 5b **1
133Groove TuesdayE3 5c *1
134Arettic BehaviourE6 6b * 
135A Bridge Too FarE2 5b * 
136Red CracksVS  
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