Gogarth South Stack

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 59m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Access notes
South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MOUSETRAP ZAWN 
2HysteresisE4 5c ***
3PrimateE2 5b **
4PrimevilHVS 4c
5RosebudE5 6a **
6The Green SlabVS 4b **
7Helmet BoilerE5 5c *
8MousetrapE2 5a ***
9MantrapE3 5b *
10Another Roadside AttractionE5 6a **
11Death Trap DirectE6 5c
12The New GirdleE1 5b
13ValdiniHVS
14BedlamE3 5b
 RED WALLS 
16AuricleHVS 4c
17AlligatorE1 5b *
18CannibalE4 5c **
19SchittlegruberE6 6b **
20Left-hand Red WallE3 5c *
21Heart of GoldE5 6a ***
22Heart of Gold DirectE6 6a ***
23The Super CalabreseE8 6b *
24The Super Duper CalebreseE6 6b ***
25The Enchanted Broccoli GardenE7 6b ***
26PaganE4 5c ***
27SalemE5 6b *
28Outside the asylumE5 6a **
29DeygoE3 5c **
30Deygo/Infidel DirectE3 5c **
31Come to MotherE7 6a
32InfidelE3 5c *
33Infidel DirectE4 5c **
34AnarchistE1 5b *
35The MissionaryE4 5c **
36The Cruel SeamE5 6b *
37This is the SeaE5 6a *
38The FeatherstoneE5 6b *
39The CreeE3 6a *
40The Electrification of the Soviet UnionE4 6a *
41Television RouteE4 5c *
42Khmer RougeE5 6a **
43RedshiftE3 5c **
44Red Wall Escape RouteVS 4c
45WendigoE3 5b **
46Blue Remembered HillsE4 5c **
47Red HazeE4 5c *
48Rapture of the DeepE4 5b **
49Red WallE2 5b ***
50FantasiaE3 5c ***
51Communication BreakdownE3 5c *
52The MazeE4 5c ***
 CASTELL HELEN 
54Black LightHVS 4c
55Lighthouse AreteVS 4c *
56Lighthouse Arete DirectVS 4c **
57Lighthouse Arete Direct/BlancoHVS 5a ***
58Where Puffins Daren'tHVS 5a *
59Castell Helen GirdleE1 5b *
60PoseidonVS 4c *
61Poseidon/BlancoHVS 5a **
62BlancoHVS 5a **
63A State of SaturationHVS 5a
64FreebirdE1 5b **
65PelVS 4c **
66North West PassageE1 5b **
67RapVS 4c *
68True MomentsE1 5b *
69True Moments/FreebirdE1 5b ***
70Atlantis/True Moments/FreebirdE2 5b ***
71AtlantisE1 5c *
72Atlantic WallE3 5c *
73Hanging Out At GlastonburyE4 6a *
74ObeliskE5 6b **
75Free Stone HengeE7 6c ***
76KalahariE3 5c **
77GobiHVS 5a
78limping lisaE2 5b
79Kalahari HighwayE5 6a ***
 YELLOW WALLS 
81The SavageE1 5a
82Book of AgesE5 6b *
83PeryglE3 5c *
84YouE4 6a *
85The DrunkE6 6b **
86The MoonE3 5c ***
87MeE6 6a **
88The CowE5 6a ***
89LudwigE6 6b ***
90Dogs of WarE4 5c **
91The SindE3 5b **
92Isis is AngryE7 6c ***
93Creeping LemmaE2 5c **
94Not Yellow Wall Escape RouteHVS 4c
 PENLAS ROCK 
96MirageVS
97Penlas PinnacleVS 4c
98Stochastic GrooveVS 4c
99SerendipityVS 4c
100Plimsoll LineVS
101NonenityVS
102MoonshineVS
103Triffid GrooveVS
104NatalieXS
 BLACKSMITH'S ZAWN 
106The CompassE1 5b *
107The Magic RoundaboutE6 6b *
108ErmintrudeE6 6a **
109Angel DustE6 6a ***
110ThugE7 6b ***
111The Bogle RoofE6 6b **
112Red RocketE6 6b
113Seven Types Of AngularityE5 6b **
114Bats In The BelfryE7 6b ***
115The Light That Didn't ShineXS ***
 SMURF ZAWN 
117Funky GibbonE3 5b
118King of the SwingersE3 5c **
119Wall Left Of King Of The SwingersE2
120King LouisE5 6a
121Free Nelson Mandela NowE5 6a *
122Green LightVS 4c ***
123SmurfE2 5b **
124GnomeE2 5c *
125ElfE1 5b *
126Dai HardE5 6b *
127BaluHVS 5a
128The Smurf GirdleVS 5a **
129Groove TuesdayE3 5c *
130Arettic BehaviourE6 6b *
131A Bridge Too FarE2 5b *
132Red CracksVS
133Smear Campaign *E8 6c **
134Back to Black Smith *E2 5b *
135Pterodactyl *E3 5b **
136Sun Sea and Smurf *E2 5c,5b *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Reeves

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