Climbs 193
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 59m a.s.l
Faces SW

Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Access Advice

No issues reported.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South of Upper Tier 
2The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
 The Loathsome Cleft 
4Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b * 
6Hale Bop
-
E3 5c  
7FEU 123ELF
-
XS  
 Skull Zawn 
9The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c * 
10Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a ** 
11Sea WitchE6 6a *** 
 Thunderbird Zawn 
 South Stack Island 
 Mousetrap Zawn 
15Linkage
-
VS  
16A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a * 
17Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a * 
18Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a ** 
19Hysteresis
-
E4 5c ***12
20Catatonia
-
E5 6a ** 
21The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b *** 
22Primate
-
E2 5b **31
23Primevil
-
HVS 5a 1
24Rosebud
-
E5 6a ** 
25The Green SlabHVS 4c *46
26Dai You Late
-
E6 6b * 
27Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c * 
28MousetrapE2 5a ***354
29Death Trap
-
E5 5b ** 
30Death Trap DirectE6 5c ***1
31The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a * 
32Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a ** 
33MantrapE3 5b **10
34Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a **1
35BedlamE3 5b *1
36ValdiniXS 5a 2
37Locarno
-
XS 5b  
38The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b * 
39The New Girdle
-
E1 5b *2
 Left Hand Red Wall 
41Vena Cave
-
VS 4c  
42BSB
-
E1 5b  
43Auricle
-
HVS 4c 1
44The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
45Ceefax
-
HVS 4c  
46AlligatorE2 5b *2
47CannibalE4 5c **22
48SchittlegruberE6 6b ***7
49Left-hand Red WallE3 5c **29
50Ramalina
-
E6 6b ** 
51Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c * 
52Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a ** 
53Heart of GoldE5 6a ***5
54Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a ***10
55The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b *1
56The Super Duper CalebreseE6 6b ***1
57The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b *** 
58PaganE4 5c ***36
59Salem
-
E5 6a *2
60Deygo
-
E3 5c **18
61Deygo/Infidel DirectE3 5c ** 
62Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b ** 
63 Come to MotherE7 6a  
64Infidel
-
E3 5c *8
65Infidel Direct
-
E4 5c **4
66Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a **2
67Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a ** 
68AnarchistE1 5b *94
69Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c  
70Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a  
71Care in the Community
-
E5 6a * 
72The Missionary
-
E4 5c **3
73The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c *** 
74The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c * 
 The Promontory 
76Puritan
-
VS 4c  
77Project!!!E11 7a  
78Athiest
-
E4 6a * 
79Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c  
80Heathen
-
E1 5b  
81The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b * 
82This is the Sea
-
E5 6a *2
83The Featherstone
-
E5 6b * 
84Smear CampaignE8 6c **1
85Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c ** 
86Into the Light
-
E2 5c  
87Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
88Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a  
 Right Hand Red Wall 
90The Cree
-
E3 6a *9
91The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a *3
92Roger Melly
-
E4 6a  
93Television RouteE4 5c ***12
94The safer Start!
-
E4 5c  
95Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a **3
96Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
97Redshift
-
E4 5c **20
98Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a * 
99Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c  
100Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 11
101WendigoE2 5b ***87
102Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 
103Blue Remembered HillsE3 5c ***21
104Red Haze
-
E4 5c *12
105Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b **5
106Red WallE2 5b ***155
107FantasiaE3 5c ***39
108A Brown Study
-
E3 5c * 
109Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c ** 
110Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b * 
111The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a * 
112Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c * 
113The Maze
-
E4 5c *** 
 Castell Helen 
115Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c * 
116Nematoid
-
E3 5c  
117Black Light
-
HVS 4c *4
118Woodlight
-
HS 4a * 
119Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD * 
120Lighthouse AreteVS 4b **840
121Lighthouse Arete DirectVS 4c **343
122Lighthouse Arete Direct/BlancoHVS 5a ***87
123A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 20
124BlancoHVS 5a **279
125Poseidon
-
VS 4c *97
126Poseidon/BlancoHVS 5a **53
127Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a * 
128PelVS 4c **406
129Freebird
-
E1 5b **44
130The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a  
131North West PassageE1 5b ***521
132RapVS 5a **690
133True Moments
-
E1 5b **45
134Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c  
135AtlantisE1 5c **210
136True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b ***122
137Atlantis/True Moments/FreebirdE2 5b ***163
138limping lisa
-
E2 5b *8
139Sloe PassageE4 6a *1
140Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b * 
141Atlantic Wall "1990"E3 5c *11
142Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b * 
143Hanging Out At GlastonburyE4 5c ***7
144Obelisk
-
E6 6b ** 
145Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b ***1
146Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c ** 
147Kalahari
-
E3 5c **119
148Kalahari HighwayE4 6a ***5
149Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b * 
150Gobi
-
HVS 5a 3
151Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a *19
152Castell Helen GirdleE1 5b *17
 Yellow Walls 
154The SavageE2 5b *126
155Book of AgesE5 6b *2
156Perygl
-
E3 5c **37
157YouE4 6a *4
158The DrunkE6 6b **7
159The MoonE3 5c ***330
160Me
-
E6 6a **5
161The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b ** 
162The CowE5 6a ***49
163Ludwig
-
E6 6b ***12
164Beefhoven
-
E6 6b  
165The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b ** 
166Dogs of War
-
E4 5c **19
167The Sind
-
E3 5b **71
168Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c ***2
169Creeping LemmaE2 5c ***88
170The Big Softy
-
E6 6a  
171Paddington
-
E3 5c  
172PterodactylE3 5b ** 
17393,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c * 
174Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b * 
175Not Yellow Wall Escape RouteHVS 4c 1
 Blacksmith's Zawn 
177The Compass
-
E1 5b *3
178The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b * 
179Ermintrude
-
E6 6a ** 
180Angel Dust
-
E6 6a ***1
181Thug
-
E7 6b *** 
182The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b ** 
183Red Rocket
-
E6 6b  
184Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b **1
185Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b *** 
186Back to Black SmithE2 5b *1
187The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS ***2

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