Climbs 204
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 59m a.s.l
Faces SW

Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Access Advice

No issues reported.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South of Upper Tier 
2The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
 The Loathsome Cleft 
4Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b *1
6Hale Bop
-
E3 5c 1
7FEU 123ELF
-
XS 1
 Skull Zawn 
9The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c * 
10Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a ** 
11Sea WitchE6 6a ***3
12Mor Mochyn
-
E3 5c * 
13Mochyn Bach
-
E4 6a * 
14Brain in a Vat
-
E2 5b *2
 Trinity House Walls 
16Aussie Rules
-
VS 4c * 
17Sam Shore
-
E1 5b *1
18Ray Mears
-
VD  
19Troy Tempest
-
S  
20Oink
-
HVS 4c  
21Aqua Marina
-
E2 5b * 
22El Presidente
-
E5 6b ** 
23Idlevice
-
E5 6b * 
24Scud
-
E3 6a ** 
25Karaoke Bar
-
E6 6b ** 
26Friend or Anemone
-
E4 6a ** 
27The HoodE2 5c **1
28Walking the Plankton
-
E5 6a * 
29International Rescue
-
HVS 5b *2
30Mr Waverley
-
HVS 5a **2
31Mr Waverley with the International Rescue finish
-
HVS 5a **3
32Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
-
HVS 5b *4
33Start Me Up
-
HVS 5a * 
34Parker
-
E3 5c  
35Catch a Fire
-
E1 5b  
36Rapping
-
VS 4b 1
 Thunderbird Zawn 
38ThrushVS 4c 2
39Napolean SoloVS 4c *1
40Man from Uncle
-
E1 5a *7
41The Prisoner
-
E2 5a *1
 South Stack Island 
 Mousetrap Zawn 
44Linkage
-
VS 1
45A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a *2
46Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a *2
47Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a **2
48Hysteresis
-
E4 5c ***18
49Catatonia
-
E5 6a **2
50The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b ***3
51Primate
-
E2 5b **40
52Primevil
-
HVS 5a 3
53Rosebud
-
E5 6a **1
54The Green SlabHVS 4c *37
55Dai You Late
-
E6 6b *1
56Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c *1
57MousetrapE2 5a ***393
58Death Trap
-
E5 5b **2
59Death Trap DirectE6 5c ***2
60The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a *1
61Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a **1
62MantrapE3 5b **15
63Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a **3
64BedlamE3 5b *3
65ValdiniXS 5a 3
66Locarno
-
XS 5b  
67The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b * 
68The New Girdle
-
E1 5b *5
 Left Hand Red Wall 
70Vena Cave
-
VS 4c 1
71BSB
-
E1 5b  
72Auricle
-
HVS 4c 2
73The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
74Ceefax
-
HVS 4c 1
75AlligatorE2 5b *4
76CannibalE4 5c **24
77SchittlegruberE6 6b ***9
78Left-hand Red WallE3 5c **33
79Ramalina
-
E6 6b **2
80Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c *2
81Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a **2
82Heart of GoldE5 6a ***7
83Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a ***13
84The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b *3
85The Super Duper CalebreseE6 6b ***2
86The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b ***6
87PaganE4 5c ***46
88Salem
-
E5 6a *5
89Deygo
-
E3 5c **25
90Deygo/Infidel DirectE3 5c **2
91Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b **2
92 Come to MotherE7 6a  
93Infidel
-
E3 5c *12
94Infidel Direct
-
E4 5c **11
95Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a **7
96Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a **2
97AnarchistE1 5b *118
98Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c 1
99Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a 1
100Care in the Community
-
E5 6a *2
101The Missionary
-
E4 5c **4
102The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c ***1
103The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c *1
 The Promontory 
105Puritan
-
VS 4c 1
106Project!!!E11 7a  
107Athiest
-
E4 6a *1
108Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c 1
109Heathen
-
E1 5b 1
110The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b *1
111This is the Sea
-
E5 6a *3
112The Featherstone
-
E5 6b *1
113Smear CampaignE8 6c **1
114Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c ** 
115Into the Light
-
E2 5c 1
116Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
117Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a 1
 Right Hand Red Wall 
119The Cree
-
E3 6a *13
120The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a *5
121Roger Melly
-
E4 6a 1
122Television RouteE4 5c ***16
123The safer Start!
-
E4 5c 4
124Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a **5
125Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
126Redshift
-
E4 5c **27
127Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a *2
128Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c 1
129Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 13
130WendigoE2 5b ***108
131Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 
132Blue Remembered HillsE3 5c ***27
133Red Haze
-
E4 5c *14
134Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b **9
135Red WallE2 5b ***180
136FantasiaE3 5c ***53
137A Brown Study
-
E3 5c *2
138Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c **3
139Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b *2
140The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a *1
141Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c *1
142The Maze
-
E4 5c *** 
 Castell Helen 
144Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c *1
145Nematoid
-
E3 5c 1
146Black Light
-
HVS 4c *5
147Woodlight
-
HS 4a * 
148Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD *1
149Lighthouse AreteVS 4b **961
150Lighthouse Arete DirectVS 4c **400
151Lighthouse Arete Direct/BlancoHVS 5a ***94
152A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 37
153BlancoHVS 5a **345
154Poseidon
-
VS 4c *111
155Poseidon/BlancoHVS 5a **55
156Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a *3
157PelVS 4c **486
158Freebird
-
E1 5b **57
159The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a 1
160North West PassageE1 5b ***666
161RapVS 5a **785
162True Moments
-
E1 5b **57
163Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c 1
164AtlantisE1 5c **237
165True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b ***155
166Atlantis/True Moments/FreebirdE2 5b ***205
167limping lisa
-
E2 5b *20
168Sloe PassageE4 6a *1
169Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b *1
170Atlantic Wall "1990"E3 5c *13
171Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b *2
172Hanging Out At GlastonburyE4 5c ***20
173Obelisk
-
E6 6b **2
174Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b ***4
175Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c **2
176Kalahari
-
E3 5c **147
177Kalahari HighwayE4 6a ***7
178Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b *2
179Gobi
-
HVS 5a 4
180Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a *22
181Castell Helen GirdleE1 5b *25
 Yellow Walls 
183The SavageE2 5b *145
184Book of AgesE5 6b *4
185Perygl
-
E3 5c **46
186YouE4 6a *5
187The DrunkE6 6b **11
188The MoonE3 5c ***383
189Me
-
E6 6a **15
190The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b **2
191The CowE5 6a ***69
192Ludwig
-
E6 6b ***18
193Beefhoven
-
E6 6b 2
194The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b **2
195Dogs of War
-
E4 5c **28
196The Sind
-
E3 5b **89
197Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c ***4
198Creeping LemmaE2 5c ***120
199The Big Softy
-
E6 6a 2
200Paddington
-
E3 5c  
201PterodactylE3 5b **4
20293,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c *4
203Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b *2
204Not Yellow Wall Escape RouteHVS 4c 2
 Blacksmith's Zawn 
206Spooners StruggleE2 5b * 
207The Compass
-
E1 5b *4
208The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b *2
209Ermintrude
-
E6 6a **2
210Angel Dust
-
E6 6a ***3
211Thug
-
E7 6b ***1
212The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b ** 
213Red Rocket
-
E6 6b 2
214Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b **3
215Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b *** 
216Back to Black SmithE2 5b *1
217The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS ***14

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