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These details were last updated on 30/Sep/2013

Holyhead Mountain

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 133 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
11 °C
26 kph

0.4mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
30 kph

0.1mm rain
9 °C
26 kph

0.0mm rain
11 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
11 °C
38 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Holyhead Mountain summitsummit 31
3CorkscrewVS 5a 21
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 12
6Vegetable GardenVD 48
7M WallHVS 5b 17
8M...M...MotherE4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b *199
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 8
11RomulusVS 5a 83
12RemusHS 4c 71
14Wally's FollyVD 122
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a 263
16Primrose HillVD 85
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a 258
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 18
19Primrose Hill GutterM 47
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a 18
21Aint going downHS 4b 3
22P.C.H.E1 5b 13
23BreakawayE2 5c 3
25StairsS *242
26Stairs DirectVS 5a 33
27Teenage KicksS 4a 133
28The GripVS 4c 43
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a 9
30The Three AmigosE5 6b * 
32Broken CornerS 8
33CurtainsVS 4c 131
34PlimsoleHD 123
35NutsHVS 5a 9
36GrendelE1 5c *27
37CursingVS 4c *212
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 15
39Skinned UpE4 6b *9
40Little WomenHVS 5a 20
41TeaserVS 4c *440
42Step On The WildsideHVS 4c 19
43LacerationVS 5a 174
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *152
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4c 291
46A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b 72
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a 384
48RhiannonHS 4b 61
49Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b 62
50Mrs MurdockS 4a 214
52Mental BlockVS 5a 30
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c 34
54DuffelHS 4b 80
55C'est La VieHVS 5b 28
56The AbbeyVS 4c 14
57The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b 2
58The SumpD 82
59Sump DirectHS 4b *150
60The Elephant's ArseS 4b *182
61Kit KatVS 4c **4
62MinimeE2 5b  
63PisaE1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 13
66The RaverS 21
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 18
68A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b * 
69ThreadS 4a 73
70WindE1 5b 22
71UhuruVS 4c 55
 Climb nameGradex
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c 12
73Jones' CrackVD 13
74Bran FlakeE2 5b *197
75ShreddiesE2 5c 8
76CroissantE3 6b 5
77Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *25
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***603
80Snakebite WallE4 6a *37
81Trouser SnakeE4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **151
83Sai DancingE3 6a **61
84Final SolutionE3 5c **53
85Trhern AreteE5 6a * 
86Twilight ZoneE4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *11
90A Slow BrewE3 6a  
91Drying OutE3 6a  
93The Unblue CrackE1 5b 20
94AndoverVS 5a 103
95The ArrowE3 5c 1
96See Emily PlayHVS 5a *62
97TensionVS 4b **696
98Black and TanVS 4c *566
99Point TakenE2 5c *4
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***601
101The EchoesE3 6a **31
102Sisters CrackE2 5b 8
103ReliefE2 5c 19
104BruversHVS 5a **528
105ApostropheHVS 5a 20
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a 1
107ContestantVD 59
108Dreaming of HomeE3 5c  
109BlackfootHS 4b 15
110Blackfoot Variation *VS 4c *1
111Time to ReflectE1 5c 17
112TempestS 4a *231
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 5
114MomserS 4a 15
115Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c  
117Black OwenVD *109
118Slab DirectVD *202
119Lost HopeHS 4b *112
120Route 66D 31
121SlippersVD 278
122D'ElephantVD *408
123SnowfallVD 94
124Rock and IceHS 4a 182
125Comfortably NumbVS 4c 107
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 25
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 21
129DelicateD 36
130Get off my CaseVD *15
131HatVD 315
133HammerS 4a 58
134GelliVS 4b 36
135SupriseE1 5b 33
136The 5 Pound Curry Debacle *VD *1
137Hot Lips *E5 6b *1
138Deepest Condolences *E3 6a 3
139And Over to Tension *VS 4c *2
140Bunnet *VD *2
141The Right Hand Finish *VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

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ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13

A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06