Holyhead Mountain

Climbs 133 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Holyhead Mountain summitsummit
3CorkscrewVS 5a
4ThumbscrewVS 5a
6Vegetable GardenVD
7M WallHVS 5b
8M...M...MotherE4 6a
9CandlestickHS 4b *
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c
11RomulusVS 5a
12RemusHS 4c
14Wally's FollyVD
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a
16Primrose HillVD
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b
19Primrose Hill GutterM
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a
21Aint going downHS 4b
22P.C.H.E1 5b
23BreakawayE2 5c
25StairsS *
26Stairs DirectVS 5a
27Teenage KicksS 4a
28The GripVS 4c
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a
30The Three AmigosE5 6b *
32Broken CornerS
33CurtainsVS 4c
35NutsHVS 5a
36GrendelE1 5c *
37CursingVS 4c *
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a
39Skinned UpE4 6b *
40Little WomenHVS 5a
41TeaserVS 4c *
42Step On The WildsideHVS 4c
43LacerationVS 5a
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4c
46A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a
48RhiannonHS 4b
49Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b
50Mrs MurdockS 4a
52Mental BlockVS 5a
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c
54DuffelHS 4b
55C'est La VieHVS 5b
56The AbbeyVS 4c
57The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b
58The SumpD
59Sump DirectHS 4b *
60The Elephant's ArseS 4b *
61Kit KatVS 4c **
62MinimeE2 5b
63PisaE1 5b
64The CrackVD
66The RaverS
67Bloody FingersHS 4b
68A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b *
69ThreadS 4a
70WindE1 5b
71UhuruVS 4c
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c
73Jones' CrackVD
74Bran FlakeE2 5b *
75ShreddiesE2 5c
76CroissantE3 6b
77Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b *
78Big JimE3 6b *
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***
80Snakebite WallE4 6a *
81Trouser SnakeE4 6a
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **
83Sai DancingE3 6a **
84Final SolutionE3 5c **
85Trhern AreteE5 6a *
86Twilight ZoneE4 6b
87The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c *
88The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c
89PatienceVS 4c *
90A Slow BrewE3 6a
91Drying OutE3 6a
93The Unblue CrackE1 5b
94AndoverVS 5a
95The ArrowE3 5c
96See Emily PlayHVS 5a *
97TensionVS 4b **
98Black and TanVS 4c *
99Point TakenE2 5c *
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***
101The EchoesE3 6a **
102Sisters CrackE2 5b
103ReliefE2 5c
104BruversHVS 5a **
105ApostropheHVS 5a
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a
108Dreaming of HomeE3 5c
109BlackfootHS 4b
110Blackfoot Variation *VS 4c *
111Time to ReflectE1 5c
112TempestS 4a *
113ScissorhandsE1 5b
114MomserS 4a
115Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c
117Black OwenVD *
118Slab DirectVD *
119Lost HopeHS 4b *
120Route 66D
122D'ElephantVD *
124Rock and IceHS 4a
125Comfortably NumbVS 4c
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b
127Albany LodgeE1 5b
130Get off my CaseVD *
133HammerS 4a
134GelliVS 4b
135SupriseE1 5b
136The 5 Pound Curry Debacle *VD *
137Hot Lips *E5 6b *
138Deepest Condolences *E3 6a
139And Over to Tension *VS 4c *
140Bunnet *VD *
141The Right Hand Finish *VD
142Candle stick *M
143BS *E3 5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RachelP

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 30/Sep/2013

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