Holyhead Mountain

Climbs 133 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Holyhead Mountain summitsummit 35
3CorkscrewVS 5a 21
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 15
6Vegetable GardenVD 53
7M WallHVS 5b 19
8M...M...MotherE4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b **246
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 8
11RomulusVS 5a *109
12RemusHS 4b 94
14Wally's FollyVD *149
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a *319
16Primrose HillVD 93
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a *319
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 20
19Primrose Hill GutterM 51
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a 22
21Aint going downHS 4b 6
22P.C.H.E1 5b 14
23BreakawayE2 5c *4
25StairsS 4a *286
26Stairs DirectVS 5a 37
27Teenage KicksS 4a *156
28The GripVS 4c *54
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a 9
30The Three AmigosE5 6b * 
32Broken CornerS 8
33CurtainsVS 4c 143
34PlimsoleD *141
35NutsHVS 5a 11
36GrendelE2 5c *35
37CursingVS 4c **241
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 15
39Skinned UpE4 6b *10
40Little WomenHVS 5a 25
41TeaserVS 4c *489
42Step On The WildsideHVS 4c 25
43LacerationVS 5a 192
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *194
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4b *339
46A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b 81
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a *449
48RhiannonHS 4b 68
49Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b 67
50Mrs MurdockS 4a 254
52Mental BlockVS 5a 31
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c 40
54DuffelHS 4b 85
55C'est La VieHVS 5b 32
56The AbbeyVS 4c 15
57The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b 2
58The SumpD *98
59Sump DirectHS 4b *174
60The Elephant's ArseS 4b *202
61Kit KatVS 4c **4
62MinimeE2 5b  
63PisaE1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 14
66The RaverS 24
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 18
68A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b * 
69ThreadS 4a 81
70WindE1 5b 25
71UhuruVS 4c 61
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c *14
73Jones' CrackVD 14
74Bran FlakeE2 5b **229
75ShreddiesE2 5c 8
76CroissantE3 6b 6
77Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *27
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***702
80Snakebite WallE4 6a *38
81Trouser SnakeE4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **174
83Sai DancingE3 6a **71
84Final SolutionE3 5c **64
85Trhern AreteE5 6a *1
86Twilight ZoneE4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *12
90A Slow BrewE3 6a  
91Drying OutE3 6a  
93The Unblue CrackE1 5b 21
94AndoverVS 5a *116
95The ArrowE3 5c 1
96See Emily PlayHVS 5a *65
97TensionVS 4b **781
98Black and TanVS 4c **633
99Point TakenE2 5c *5
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***684
101The EchoesE3 6a *35
102Sisters CrackE2 5b 14
103ReliefE2 5c 19
104BruversHVS 5a **608
105ApostropheHVS 5a 22
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a 1
107ContestantVD 64
108Dreaming of HomeE3 5c  
109BlackfootHS 4b 22
110Blackfoot Variation *VS 4c *1
111Time to ReflectE1 5c 18
112TempestS 4a *259
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 6
114MomserS 4a 15
115Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c  
117Black OwenVD *122
118Slab DirectVD *220
119Lost HopeHS 4b *120
120Route 66D 35
121SlippersVD 305
122D'ElephantVD *468
123SnowfallVD 117
124Rock and IceHS 4a 194
125Comfortably NumbVS 4c 115
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 27
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 25
129DelicateD 41
130Get off my CaseVD *21
131HatVD 352
133HammerS 4a 63
134GelliVS 4b 39
135SupriseE1 5b 36
136The 5 Pound Curry Debacle *VD *1
137Hot Lips *E5 6b *1
138Deepest Condolences *E3 6a 3
139And Over to Tension *VS 4c *2
140Bunnet *VD *2
141The Right Hand Finish *VD 1
142Candle stick *M 1
143BS *E3 5c 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RachelP

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ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06