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These details were last updated on 14/Mar/2011

Holyhead Mountain

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not... Best routes:-

Candlestick (HS 4a)

Curtains (VS)

Cursing (VS4c)

Teaser (VS 4c)

Tension (VS 4c)

Black & Tan (VS 4c)

King-Bee Crack (HVS 5a)

Bruvvers (HVS 5a)

See Emily Play (HVS 5a)

Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b)

Bran Flake (E2 5b)

Echoes (E3 6a)

Sai Dancing (E3 6a/E4 6b/E3 6b/E4 6a???)

Skinned up (E4 6b)

Katana (E4 6a)

And a host of other extremes on Yellow wall, plus easier routes on the slabs.

[MikeyG 6/02]

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Guidebooks
Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 RAMP A  
2Holyhead Mountain summitsummit 28
3CorkscrewVS 5a 21
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 12
 RAMP B  
6Vegetable GardenVD 45
7M WallHVS 5b 17
8M...M...MotherE4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b *179
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 7
11RomulusVS 5a 75
12RemusHS 4c 60
 RAMP C  
14Wally's FollyVD 111
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a 221
16Primrose HillVD 74
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a 215
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 14
19Primrose Hill GutterM 39
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a 18
21Aint going downHS 4b 3
22P.C.H.E1 5b 12
23BreakawayE2 5c 2
 RAMP D  
25StairsS *207
26Stairs DirectVS 5a 25
27Teenage KicksS 4a 121
28The GripVS 4c 36
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a 9
30The Three AmigosE5 6b * 
 RAMP E  
32Broken CornerS 6
33CurtainsVS 4c 121
34PlimsoleHD 115
35NutsHVS 5a 7
36GrendelE1 5c *25
37CursingVS 4c *197
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 12
39Skinned UpE4 6b *8
40Little WomenHVS 5a 16
41TeaserVS 4c *395
42Step On The WildsideHVS 4c 12
43LacerationVS 5a 165
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *123
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4c 251
46A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b 63
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a 348
48RhiannonHS 4b 55
49Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b 52
50Mrs MurdockS 4a 196
 RAMP F  
52Mental BlockVS 5a 28
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c 27
54DuffelHS 4b 74
55C'est La VieHVS 5b 27
56The AbbeyVS 4c 14
57The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b 2
58The SumpD 75
59Sump DirectHS 4b *133
60The Elephant's ArseS 4b *155
61Kit KatVS 4c **3
62MinimeE2 5b  
63PisaE1 5b 4
64The CrackVD 10
 YELLOW WALL  
66The RaverS 19
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 16
68A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b * 
69ThreadS 4a 66
70WindE1 5b 20
71UhuruVS 4c 50
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c 12
 Climb nameGradex
73Jones' CrackVD 12
74Bran FlakeE2 5b *168
75ShreddiesE2 5c 6
76CroissantE3 6b 3
77Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *25
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***537
80Snakebite WallE4 6a *34
81Trouser SnakeE4 6a 1
82KatanaE4 6a **61
83PennyE4 6a **78
84Sai DancingE3 6a **58
85Final SolutionE3 5c **44
86Trhern AreteE5 6a * 
87Twilight ZoneE4 6b  
88The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c * 
89The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c  
90PatienceVS 4c *10
91A Slow BrewE3 6a  
92Drying OutE3 6a  
 QUARTZ WALL  
94The Unblue CrackE1 5b 19
95AndoverVS 5a 95
96The ArrowE3 5c  
97See Emily PlayHVS 5a *54
98TensionVS 4b **608
99Black and TanVS 4c *508
100Point TakenE2 5c *4
101Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***523
102The EchoesE3 6a **28
103Sisters CrackE2 5b 8
104ReliefE2 5c 19
105BruversHVS 5a **461
106ApostropheHVS 5a 19
107Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a 1
108ContestantVD 51
109Dreaming of HomeE3 5c  
110BlackfootHS 4b 14
111Blackfoot Variation *VS 4c *1
112Time to ReflectE1 5c 15
113TempestS 4a *201
114ScissorhandsE1 5b 5
115MomserS 4a 14
116Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c  
 CENTRAL SLAB  
118Black OwenVD *95
119Slab DirectVD *183
120Lost HopeHS 4b *101
121Route 66D 29
122SlippersVD 249
123D'ElephantVD *359
124SnowfallVD 87
125Rock and IceHS 4a 166
126Comfortably NumbVS 4c 87
127The Mad ScientistHS 4b 25
128Albany LodgeE1 5b 18
 SUB SLAB  
130DelicateD 32
131Get off my CaseVD *14
132HatVD 274
 THE PILLAR  
134HammerS 4a 56
135GelliVS 4b 33
136SupriseE1 5b 33
137The 5 Pound Curry Debacle *VD *1
138Hot Lips *E5 6b *1
139Deepest Condolences *E3 6a 3
140Step On The Wild Side *HVS 4c 2
141Bruvvers *HVS 5a 4
142And Over to Tension *VS 4c *2
143Little woman *HVS 5a 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06