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Holyhead MountainGogarth and Anglesey, WALES
Climbs 132 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW
Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.
Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not... Best routes:-
Candlestick (HS 4a)
Teaser (VS 4c)
Tension (VS 4c)
Black & Tan (VS 4c)
King-Bee Crack (HVS 5a)
Bruvvers (HVS 5a)
See Emily Play (HVS 5a)
Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b)
Bran Flake (E2 5b)
Echoes (E3 6a)
Sai Dancing (E3 6a/E4 6b/E3 6b/E4 6a???)
Skinned up (E4 6b)
Katana (E4 6a)
And a host of other extremes on Yellow wall, plus easier routes on the slabs.
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.
ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.