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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 219828 (Landranger #114)

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These details were last updated on 23/Aug/2010

Holyhead Mountain

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 130 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not... Best routes:-

Candlestick (HS 4a)

Curtains (VS)

Cursing (VS4c)

Teaser (VS 4c)

Tension (VS 4c)

Black & Tan (VS 4c)

King-Bee Crack (HVS 5a)

Bruvvers (HVS 5a)

See Emily Play (HVS 5a)

Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b)

Bran Flake (E2 5b)

Echoes (E3 6a)

Sai Dancing (E3 6a/E4 6b/E3 6b/E4 6a???)

Skinned up (E4 6b)

Katana (E4 6a)

And a host of other extremes on Yellow wall, plus easier routes on the slabs.

[MikeyG 6/02]

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

Moderate rain
Cloudy
17 °C
Light rain
Broken cloud
15 °C
Moderate rain
Cloudy
15 °C
Light rain
Cloudy
15 °C		 
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs

 Climb nameGradex
1Holyhead Mountain summitsummit 1
 RAMP A  
3CorkscrewVS 5a 12
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 6
 RAMP B  
6Vegetable GardenVD 19
7M WallHVS 5b 6
8M...M...MotherE4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b *102
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 2
11RomulusVS 5a 46
12RemusHS 4c 32
 RAMP C  
14Wally's FollyVD 56
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a 114
16Primrose HillVD 36
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a 106
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 3
19Primrose Hill GutterM 18
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a 13
21Aint going downHS 4b 1
22P.C.H.E1 5b 2
23BreakawayE2 5c 2
 RAMP D  
25StairsS *112
26Stairs DirectVS 5a 3
27Teenage KicksS 4a 61
28The GripVS 4c 6
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a 5
30The Three AmigosE5 6b * 
 RAMP E  
32CurtainsVS 4c 70
33PlimsoleHD 76
34NutsHVS 5a  
35GrendelE1 5c *12
36CursingVS 4c *116
37Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 5
38Skinned UpE4 6b *4
39Little WomenHVS 5a 8
40TeaserVS 4c *204
41Step On The WildsideHVS 4c 3
42LacerationVS 5a 109
43Birthday PassageVS 4c *30
44Pleasant SurpriseHS 4c 141
45A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b 17
46New Boots and PantiesS 4a 182
47RhiannonHS 4b 31
48Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b 30
49Mrs MurdockS 4a 134
 RAMP F  
51Mental BlockVS 5a 5
52Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c 7
53DuffelHS 4b 44
54C'est La VieHVS 5b 19
55The AbbeyVS 4c 5
56The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b  
57The SumpD 38
58Sump DirectHS 4b *79
59The Elephant's ArseS 4b *67
60Kit KatVS 4c **3
61MinimeE2 5b  
62PisaE1 5b 1
63The CrackVD 6
 YELLOW WALL  
65The RaverS 8
66Bloody FingersHS 4b 9
67A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b * 
68ThreadS 4a 38
 Climb nameGradex
69WindE1 5b 6
70UhuruVS 4c 25
71Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c 3
72Jones' CrackVD 5
73Bran FlakeE2 5b *78
74ShreddiesE2 5c 3
75CroissantE3 6b  
76Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b * 
77Big JimE3 6b *8
78King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***292
79Snakebite WallE4 6a *18
80Trouser SnakeE4 6a  
81KatanaE4 6a **36
82PennyE4 6a **34
83Sai DancingE3 6a **23
84Final SolutionE3 5c **8
85Trhern AreteE5 6a * 
86Twilight ZoneE4 6b 1
87The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *6
90A Slow BrewE3 6a  
91Drying OutE3 6a  
 QUARTZ WALL  
93The Unblue CrackE1 5b 12
94AndoverVS 5a 48
95The ArrowE3 5c  
96See Emily PlayHVS 5a *20
97TensionVS 4b **304
98Black and TanVS 4c *240
99Point TakenE2 5c *1
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***278
101The EchoesE3 6a **17
102Sisters CrackE2 5b 2
103ReliefE2 5c 7
104BruversHVS 5a **228
105ApostropheHVS 5a 9
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a  
107ContestantVD 29
108Dreaming of HomeE3 5c  
109BlackfootHS 4b 4
110Blackfoot Variation †VS 4c *1
111Time to ReflectE1 5c 5
112TempestS 4a *75
113MomserS 4a 5
114Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c  
 CENTRAL SLAB  
116Black OwenVD *51
117Slab DirectVD *95
118Lost HopeHS 4b *45
119Route 66D 8
120SlippersVD 105
121D'ElephantVD *135
122SnowfallVD 39
123Rock and IceHS 4a 75
124Comfortably NumbVS 4c 32
125The Mad ScientistHS 4b 4
126Albany LodgeE1 5b 8
 SUB SLAB  
128DelicateD 14
129HatVD 117
 THE PILLAR  
131HammerS 4a 26
132GelliVS 4b 12
133SupriseE1 5b 11
134Scissorhands *E1 5b 2
135Get of my Case *VD d *1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RachelP ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as a Registered User to add your comments

A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06