Holyhead Mountain

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAMP A  
2Holyhead Mountain summitsummit 43
3CorkscrewVS 5a 23
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 16
 RAMP B  
6Vegetable GardenVD 57
7M WallHVS 5b 19
8M...M...MotherE4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b **272
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 8
11RomulusVS 5a *122
12RemusHS 4b 104
 RAMP C  
14Wally's FollyVD *169
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a *355
16Primrose HillVD 97
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a *351
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 22
19Primrose Hill GutterM 55
20Goin' Down SlowS 4a 22
21Aint going downHS 4b 6
22P.C.H.E1 5b 16
23BreakawayE2 5c *4
 RAMP D  
25StairsS 4a *324
26Stairs DirectVS 5a 42
27Teenage KicksS 4a *175
28The GripVS 4c *66
29Spreadeagle CrackHVS 5a 9
30The Three AmigosE5 6b * 
 RAMP E  
32Broken CornerS 10
33CurtainsVS 4c 151
34PlimsoleD *158
35NutsHVS 5a 13
36GrendelE2 5c *40
37CursingVS 4c **258
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 18
39Skinned UpE4 6b *11
40Little WomenHVS 5a 29
41TeaserVS 4c *525
42Step On The WildsideHVS 4c 30
43LacerationVS 5a 200
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *226
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4b *380
46A Seagull Called my NameHS 4b 86
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a *502
48RhiannonHS 4b 69
49Old Boots and Cut-OffsHS 4b 68
50Mrs MurdockS 4a 262
 RAMP F  
52Mental BlockVS 5a 32
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a WildebeastE1 4c 40
54DuffelHS 4b 88
55C'est La VieHVS 5b 33
56The AbbeyVS 4c 19
57The Abbey Direct FinishHVS 5b 2
58The SumpD *116
59Sump DirectHS 4b *191
60The Elephant's ArseS 4b *217
61Kit KatVS 4c **4
62MinimeE2 5b  
63PisaE1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 14
 YELLOW WALL  
66The RaverS 26
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 20
68A Seagull Ate My CrispsE4 6b * 
69ThreadS 4a 83
70WindE1 5b 26
71UhuruVS 4c 63
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c *17
73Jones' CrackVD 14
74Bran FlakeE2 5b **257
75ShreddiesE2 5c 8
76CroissantE3 6b 6
77Mirrored in the CleftE4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *27
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***754
80Snakebite WallE4 6a *38
81Trouser SnakeE4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **182
83Sai DancingE3 6a **75
84Final SolutionE3 5c **70
85Trhern AreteE5 6a *1
86Twilight ZoneE4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War BabiesE3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady CharlotteE3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *16
90A Slow BrewE3 6a  
91Drying OutE3 6a  
 QUARTZ WALL  
93The Unblue CrackE1 5b 22
94AndoverVS 5a *127
95The ArrowE3 5c 2
96See Emily PlayHVS 5a *67
97TensionVS 4b **829
98Black and TanVS 4c **674
99Point TakenE2 5c *6
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***748
101The EchoesE3 6a *37
102Sisters CrackE2 5b 14
103ReliefE2 5c 19
104BruversHVS 5a **652
105ApostropheHVS 5a 23
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)E2 6a 1
107ContestantVD 70
108Dreaming of HomeE3 5c  
109BlackfootHS 4b 23
110Blackfoot VariationVS 4c *1
111Time to ReflectE1 5c 17
112TempestS 4a *285
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 6
114MomserS 4a 16
115Tinseltown RebelionE2 5c  
 CENTRAL SLAB  
117Black OwenVD *142
118Slab DirectVD *234
119Lost HopeHS 4b *134
120Route 66D 38
121SlippersVD 332
122D'ElephantVD *509
123SnowfallVD 133
124Rock and IceHS 4a 220
125Comfortably NumbVS 4c 126
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 28
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 26
 SUB SLAB  
129DelicateD 43
130Get off my CaseVD *24
131HatVD 378
 THE PILLAR  
133HammerS 4a 65
134GelliVS 4b 41
135SupriseE1 5b 38
136The 5 Pound Curry DebacleVD *1
137Hot LipsE5 6b *1
138Deepest CondolencesE3 6a 3
139And Over to TensionVS 4c *2
140BunnetVD *2
141The Right Hand FinishVD 1
142Candle stickM 2
143BSE3 5c 6
144BranflakeE2 5b **2
145SurpriseE1 5b 1
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ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06