Climbs 134
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ramp A 
2Holyhead Mountain summit
summit 49
3CorkscrewVS 5a 26
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 19
 Ramp B 
6Vegetable Garden
VD 60
7M WallHVS 5b 20
E4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b **326
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 9
11RomulusVS 5a *151
12RemusHS 4b 124
 Ramp C 
14Wally's FollyVD *211
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a *419
16Primrose HillVD 107
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a *432
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 28
19Primrose Hill Gutter
M 63
20Goin' Down Slow
S 4a 23
21Aint going downHS 4b 6
22P.C.H.E1 5b 16
23BreakawayE2 5c *7
 Ramp D 
25StairsS 4a *393
26Stairs Direct
VS 5a 48
27Teenage KicksS 4a *217
28The GripVS 4c *71
29Spreadeagle Crack
HVS 5a 9
30The Three Amigos
E5 6b * 
 Ramp E 
32Broken CornerS 10
VS 4c 170
34PlimsoleD *181
HVS 5a 15
36GrendelE2 5c *47
37CursingVS 4c **308
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 21
39Skinned UpE4 6b *11
40Little Women
HVS 5a 33
41TeaserVS 4c *604
42Step On The Wildside
HVS 4c 33
VS 5a 217
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *288
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4b *456
46A Seagull Called my Name
HS 4b 111
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a *572
HS 4b 73
49Old Boots and Cut-Offs
HS 4b 74
50Mrs Murdock
S 4a 288
 Ramp F 
52Mental Block
VS 5a 34
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
E1 4c 52
HS 4b 91
55C'est La Vie
HVS 5b 40
56The AbbeyVS 4c 21
57The Abbey Direct Finish
HVS 5b 3
58The SumpD *145
59Sump DirectHS 4b *217
60The Elephant's Arse
S 4b *242
61Kit KatVS 4c **5
E2 5b  
E1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 14
 Yellow Wall 
66The Raver
S 27
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 20
68A Seagull Ate My Crisps
E4 6b * 
S 4a 89
70WindE1 5b 27
VS 4c 72
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c *18
73Jones' Crack
VD 14
74Bran FlakeE2 5b **311
E2 5c 9
E3 6b 6
77Mirrored in the Cleft
E4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *30
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***925
80Snakebite Wall
E4 6a *38
81Trouser Snake
E4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **219
83Sai Dancing
E3 6a **94
84Final SolutionE3 5c **90
85Trhern Arete
E5 6a *1
86Twilight Zone
E4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War Babies
E3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady Charlotte
E3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *17
90A Slow Brew
E3 6a  
91Drying Out
E3 6a  
 Quartz Wall 
93The Unblue Crack
E1 5b 25
94AndoverVS 5a *149
95The Arrow
E3 5c 2
96See Emily Play
HVS 5a *76
97TensionVS 4b **960
98Black and TanVS 4c **782
99Point Taken
E2 5c *11
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***915
101The EchoesE3 6a *41
102Sisters Crack
E2 5b 14
103ReliefE2 5c 22
104BruversHVS 5a **748
HVS 5a 25
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
E2 6a 1
VD 80
108Dreaming of Home
E3 5c  
HS 4b 24
110Blackfoot VariationVS 4c *2
111Time to Reflect
E1 5c 19
112TempestS 4a *322
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 12
114MomserS 4a 17
115Tinseltown Rebelion
E2 5c  
 Central Slab 
117Black Owen
VD *165
118Slab Direct
VD *256
119Lost Hope
HS 4b *147
120Route 66
D 47
VD 370
VD *586
123SnowfallVD 145
124Rock and Ice
HS 4a 237
125Comfortably Numb
VS 4c 136
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 32
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 29
 Sub Slab 
129DelicateD 46
130Get off my CaseVD *25
VD 435
 The Pillar 
133HammerS 4a 66
VS 4b 42
135SupriseE1 5b 39
136The 5 Pound Curry DebacleVD *1
137Hot LipsE5 6b *1
138Deepest CondolencesE3 6a 4
139And Over to TensionVS 4c *2
140BunnetVD *3
141The Right Hand FinishVD 1
142Candle stick
M 2
143BSE3 5c 6
E2 5b **4
E1 5b 1

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