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Holyhead Mountain  Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES
Climbs 130 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW
Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.
Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.
Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not... Best routes:-
Candlestick (HS 4a)
Curtains (VS)
Cursing (VS4c)
Teaser (VS 4c)
Tension (VS 4c)
Black & Tan (VS 4c)
King-Bee Crack (HVS 5a)
Bruvvers (HVS 5a)
See Emily Play (HVS 5a)
Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b)
Bran Flake (E2 5b)
Echoes (E3 6a)
Sai Dancing (E3 6a/E4 6b/E3 6b/E4 6a???)
Skinned up (E4 6b)
Katana (E4 6a)
And a host of other extremes on Yellow wall, plus easier routes on the slabs.
[MikeyG 6/02]
Weather forecast
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| Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast |
Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.
ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.
Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RachelP 

A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06

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