Climbs 134
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

It goes where?! Sophie looking out the "giant roof crack" on Black and Tan, Holyhead. © neil the weak

Crag features

A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not.

Approach notes

Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
ANGLESEY pre-1974 County Top
David Carpenter - 02/Sep/13
A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ramp A 
2Holyhead Mountain summit
-
summit 46
3CorkscrewVS 5a 25
4ThumbscrewVS 5a 18
 Ramp B 
6Vegetable Garden
-
VD 57
7M WallHVS 5b 19
8M...M...Mother
-
E4 6a  
9CandlestickHS 4b **298
10Puffin ShuffleHVS 5c 8
11RomulusVS 5a *133
12RemusHS 4b 110
 Ramp C 
14Wally's FollyVD *184
15Pigeon Hole CrackS 4a *374
16Primrose HillVD 102
17The Wandering PrimroseS 4a *385
18The Wandering Primrose VariationVS 4b 24
19Primrose Hill Gutter
-
M 59
20Goin' Down Slow
-
S 4a 23
21Aint going downHS 4b 6
22P.C.H.E1 5b 16
23BreakawayE2 5c *4
 Ramp D 
25StairsS 4a *349
26Stairs Direct
-
VS 5a 45
27Teenage KicksS 4a *193
28The GripVS 4c *67
29Spreadeagle Crack
-
HVS 5a 9
30The Three Amigos
-
E5 6b * 
 Ramp E 
32Broken CornerS 10
33Curtains
-
VS 4c 157
34PlimsoleD *169
35Nuts
-
HVS 5a 15
36GrendelE2 5c *44
37CursingVS 4c **279
38Cursing Direct StartHVS 5a 19
39Skinned UpE4 6b *11
40Little Women
-
HVS 5a 31
41TeaserVS 4c *574
42Step On The Wildside
-
HVS 4c 32
43Laceration
-
VS 5a 207
44Birthday PassageVS 4c *258
45Pleasant SurpriseHS 4b *422
46A Seagull Called my Name
-
HS 4b 94
47New Boots and PantiesS 4a *525
48Rhiannon
-
HS 4b 72
49Old Boots and Cut-Offs
-
HS 4b 69
50Mrs Murdock
-
S 4a 273
 Ramp F 
52Mental Block
-
VS 5a 35
53Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast
-
E1 4c 45
54Duffel
-
HS 4b 90
55C'est La Vie
-
HVS 5b 36
56The AbbeyVS 4c 20
57The Abbey Direct Finish
-
HVS 5b 3
58The SumpD *130
59Sump DirectHS 4b *207
60The Elephant's Arse
-
S 4b *229
61Kit KatVS 4c **5
62Minime
-
E2 5b  
63Pisa
-
E1 5b 5
64The CrackVD 14
 Yellow Wall 
66The Raver
-
S 26
67Bloody FingersHS 4b 20
68A Seagull Ate My Crisps
-
E4 6b * 
69Thread
-
S 4a 84
70WindE1 5b 26
71Uhuru
-
VS 4c 68
72Uhuru (Direct Start)E1 5c *18
73Jones' Crack
-
VD 14
74Bran FlakeE2 5b **285
75Shreddies
-
E2 5c 9
76Croissant
-
E3 6b 6
77Mirrored in the Cleft
-
E4 6b * 
78Big JimE3 6b *29
79King Bee CrackHVS 5a ***871
80Snakebite Wall
-
E4 6a *38
81Trouser Snake
-
E4 6a 2
82Penny (Katana)E4 6a **207
83Sai Dancing
-
E3 6a **89
84Final SolutionE3 5c **75
85Trhern Arete
-
E5 6a *1
86Twilight Zone
-
E4 6b  
87The Electric Spanking of War Babies
-
E3 5c *1
88The Electric Lady Charlotte
-
E3 5c  
89PatienceVS 4c *17
90A Slow Brew
-
E3 6a  
91Drying Out
-
E3 6a  
 Quartz Wall 
93The Unblue Crack
-
E1 5b 23
94AndoverVS 5a *142
95The Arrow
-
E3 5c 2
96See Emily Play
-
HVS 5a *74
97TensionVS 4b **883
98Black and TanVS 4c **748
99Point Taken
-
E2 5c *8
100Breaking the BarrierE1 5b ***871
101The EchoesE3 6a *41
102Sisters Crack
-
E2 5b 14
103ReliefE2 5c 19
104BruversHVS 5a **710
105Apostrophe
-
HVS 5a 25
106Apostrophe (Direct Finish)
-
E2 6a 1
107Contestant
-
VD 72
108Dreaming of Home
-
E3 5c  
109Blackfoot
-
HS 4b 23
110Blackfoot VariationVS 4c *1
111Time to Reflect
-
E1 5c 19
112TempestS 4a *294
113ScissorhandsE1 5b 12
114MomserS 4a 17
115Tinseltown Rebelion
-
E2 5c  
 Central Slab 
117Black Owen
-
VD *154
118Slab Direct
-
VD *247
119Lost Hope
-
HS 4b *137
120Route 66
-
D 41
121Slippers
-
VD 354
122D'Elephant
-
VD *543
123SnowfallVD 139
124Rock and Ice
-
HS 4a 232
125Comfortably Numb
-
VS 4c 132
126The Mad ScientistHS 4b 29
127Albany LodgeE1 5b 29
 Sub Slab 
129DelicateD 44
130Get off my CaseVD *24
131Hat
-
VD 412
 The Pillar 
133HammerS 4a 65
134Gelli
-
VS 4b 41
135SupriseE1 5b 39
136The 5 Pound Curry DebacleVD *1
137Hot LipsE5 6b *1
138Deepest CondolencesE3 6a 4
139And Over to TensionVS 4c *2
140BunnetVD *2
141The Right Hand FinishVD 1
142Candle stick
-
M 2
143BSE3 5c 6
144Branflake
-
E2 5b **2
145Surprise
-
E1 5b 1

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