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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 219828 (OS Landranger #114)

Holyhead Mountain

Gogarth and Anglesey, WALES

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 220m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. Some parts of the crags covered with grey lichen, which can make the rock slimy when damp. However, the rocks still dry out reasonably quick on a windy day.

Mainly single-pitch routes to 40 metres.

Mixture of slabby buttresses and steep walls, mostly on solid and clean quartzite, up to 130 ft. Good for a relaxed day or mileage, or just some short but quality extremes or lower grade stuff. The harder routes should not be unerestimated though. Some of the best short pitches in North Wales too, I kid you not... Best routes:-

Candlestick (HS 4a)

Curtains (VS)

Cursing (VS4c)

Teaser (VS 4c)

Tension (VS 4c)

Black & Tan (VS 4c)

King-Bee Crack (HVS 5a)

Bruvvers (HVS 5a)

See Emily Play (HVS 5a)

Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b)

Bran Flake (E2 5b)

Echoes (E3 6a)

Sai Dancing (E3 6a/E4 6b/E3 6b/E4 6a???)

Skinned up (E4 6b)

Katana (E4 6a)

And a host of other extremes on Yellow wall, plus easier routes on the slabs.

[MikeyG 6/02]

Weather forecast

Today	Thu	Fri	Sat	Sun

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Gogarth North (2009), North Wales Rock (2006), Gogarth (1990)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	RAMP A
2	Holyhead Mountain summit	summit	28
3	Corkscrew	VS 5a	21
4	Thumbscrew	VS 5a	12
	RAMP B
6	Vegetable Garden	VD	45
7	M Wall	HVS 5b	17
8	M...M...Mother	E4 6a
9	Candlestick	HS 4b *	179
10	Puffin Shuffle	HVS 5c	7
11	Romulus	VS 5a	75
12	Remus	HS 4c	60
	RAMP C
14	Wally's Folly	VD	111
15	Pigeon Hole Crack	S 4a	221
16	Primrose Hill	VD	74
17	The Wandering Primrose	S 4a	215
18	The Wandering Primrose Variation	VS 4b	14
19	Primrose Hill Gutter	M	39
20	Goin' Down Slow	S 4a	18
21	Aint going down	HS 4b	3
22	P.C.H.	E1 5b	12
23	Breakaway	E2 5c	2
	RAMP D
25	Stairs	S *	207
26	Stairs Direct	VS 5a	25
27	Teenage Kicks	S 4a	121
28	The Grip	VS 4c	36
29	Spreadeagle Crack	HVS 5a	9
30	The Three Amigos	E5 6b *
	RAMP E
32	Broken Corner	S	6
33	Curtains	VS 4c	121
34	Plimsole	HD	115
35	Nuts	HVS 5a	7
36	Grendel	E1 5c *	25
37	Cursing	VS 4c *	197
38	Cursing Direct Start	HVS 5a	12
39	Skinned Up	E4 6b *	8
40	Little Women	HVS 5a	16
41	Teaser	VS 4c *	395
42	Step On The Wildside	HVS 4c	12
43	Laceration	VS 5a	165
44	Birthday Passage	VS 4c *	123
45	Pleasant Surprise	HS 4c	251
46	A Seagull Called my Name	HS 4b	63
47	New Boots and Panties	S 4a	348
48	Rhiannon	HS 4b	55
49	Old Boots and Cut-Offs	HS 4b	52
50	Mrs Murdock	S 4a	196
	RAMP F
52	Mental Block	VS 5a	28
53	Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast	E1 4c	27
54	Duffel	HS 4b	74
55	C'est La Vie	HVS 5b	27
56	The Abbey	VS 4c	14
57	The Abbey Direct Finish	HVS 5b	2
58	The Sump	D	75
59	Sump Direct	HS 4b *	133
60	The Elephant's Arse	S 4b *	155
61	Kit Kat	VS 4c **	3
62	Minime	E2 5b
63	Pisa	E1 5b	4
64	The Crack	VD	10
	YELLOW WALL
66	The Raver	S	19
67	Bloody Fingers	HS 4b	16
68	A Seagull Ate My Crisps	E4 6b *
69	Thread	S 4a	66
70	Wind	E1 5b	20
71	Uhuru	VS 4c	50
72	Uhuru (Direct Start)	E1 5c	12

	Climb name	Grade	x

73	Jones' Crack	VD	12
74	Bran Flake	E2 5b *	168
75	Shreddies	E2 5c	6
76	Croissant	E3 6b	3
77	Mirrored in the Cleft	E4 6b *
78	Big Jim	E3 6b *	25
79	King Bee Crack	HVS 5a ***	537
80	Snakebite Wall	E4 6a *	34
81	Trouser Snake	E4 6a	1
82	Katana	E4 6a **	61
83	Penny	E4 6a **	78
84	Sai Dancing	E3 6a **	58
85	Final Solution	E3 5c **	44
86	Trhern Arete	E5 6a *
87	Twilight Zone	E4 6b
88	The Electric Spanking of War Babies	E3 5c *
89	The Electric Lady Charlotte	E3 5c
90	Patience	VS 4c *	10
91	A Slow Brew	E3 6a
92	Drying Out	E3 6a
	QUARTZ WALL
94	The Unblue Crack	E1 5b	19
95	Andover	VS 5a	95
96	The Arrow	E3 5c
97	See Emily Play	HVS 5a *	54
98	Tension	VS 4b **	608
99	Black and Tan	VS 4c *	508
100	Point Taken	E2 5c *	4
101	Breaking the Barrier	E1 5b ***	523
102	The Echoes	E3 6a **	28
103	Sisters Crack	E2 5b	8
104	Relief	E2 5c	19
105	Bruvers	HVS 5a **	461
106	Apostrophe	HVS 5a	19
107	Apostrophe (Direct Finish)	E2 6a	1
108	Contestant	VD	51
109	Dreaming of Home	E3 5c
110	Blackfoot	HS 4b	14
111	Blackfoot Variation *	VS 4c *	1
112	Time to Reflect	E1 5c	15
113	Tempest	S 4a *	201
114	Scissorhands	E1 5b	5
115	Momser	S 4a	14
116	Tinseltown Rebelion	E2 5c
	CENTRAL SLAB
118	Black Owen	VD *	95
119	Slab Direct	VD *	183
120	Lost Hope	HS 4b *	101
121	Route 66	D	29
122	Slippers	VD	249
123	D'Elephant	VD *	359
124	Snowfall	VD	87
125	Rock and Ice	HS 4a	166
126	Comfortably Numb	VS 4c	87
127	The Mad Scientist	HS 4b	25
128	Albany Lodge	E1 5b	18
	SUB SLAB
130	Delicate	D	32
131	Get off my Case	VD *	14
132	Hat	VD	274
	THE PILLAR
134	Hammer	S 4a	56
135	Gelli	VS 4b	33
136	Suprise	E1 5b	33
137	The 5 Pound Curry Debacle *	VD *	1
138	Hot Lips *	E5 6b *	1
139	Deepest Condolences *	E3 6a	3
140	Step On The Wild Side *	HVS 4c	2
141	Bruvvers *	HVS 5a	4
142	And Over to Tension *	VS 4c *	2
143	Little woman *	HVS 5a	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Park at South Stack; follow the Upper Tier approach until the path divides, just before dropping down towards Gogarth Bay. The crags are easily seen from here. No access issues.

ksjs comments: somebody needs to swap / amend names for Final Solution, Penny and Katana to reflect correct route names (see Gogarth North, Groundup). theres also some climbs missing: Big Jim and Croissant for example.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RachelP

USER FEEDBACK

A nice little crag. The slabs routes were pleasant two pich routes for the novice. 'Stairs' route is a mini classic and a must do at easy svere.
Marcus Tierney - 20/Jul/06

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