Climbs 74
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Steve Boote on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.

Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Symphony CrackD ***197
2Fear Test
E3 5b *6
3Daddy on Sight
E3 5c  
4Fan FareHVS 4c **32
VS 4b 10
HVS 4c 2
7Electric BlueE4 5c ***105
8Solo Suprise
S 1
9Kissing the Pink
E2 5b *15
10Solo Slab
D *17
11Round the HornE5 6a *5
12In to The Deep
E2 5b 1
E1 5b 1
E4 6a  
15Tomorrow has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest)
VS 4c *15
E1 5a 2
VS 4c 2
18Ciment Fondue
E2 5b *3
E1 5b 1
20Tomorrow is Reinstated
E1 5b 1
21The Motombo
E3 5c * 
22The Tum Tum TreeE5 6a  
23Magellan's Wall
E4 6a ***43
24Dreams and ScreamsE6 6b ***13
25Gimble in the WabeE7 6b ***3
26CentrefoldE3 5c ***118
27The ViperE4 5c **30
28The Frumious BandersnatchE7 6c *** 
29GodzillaE4 5c **58
30The Jub-Jub Bird
E6 6b ***8
31The Trail of Tears
E4 6a ***25
E3 6a 1
33Drunk on Arrival
E3 6a * 
34TruantVS 4c **125
35Sea Shanty
VS 4c 14
36S.... Hawk Alley
D 8
37The Trip
VS 4c 4
38Human Camel
VS 5a 8
39Baggers Crack
S 28
E5 6b  
E1 5b 5
42Little QueenieE1 5b **28
43The Wild RoverE1 5b **230
E4 6a 1
45El Dorado
46The Mask of the Red DeathE3 5c **133
47WarpathE5 6a ***115
48The SunE3 5c ***256
49Big Boys
E5 6a 6
50Shine On You Crazy DiamondE6 6b ** 
51Medicine Man
E4 6a  
52IcarusHVS 5a **347
53DidalusE1 5a *7
54The Savage SunbirdE2 5b **257
55The Cocktail Trip
E4 5c 11
E3 5c 2
57Sunset Slab
VD 11
58WaxwingE1 5b 10
HVS 5b 2
60The Cruel SeaHVS 5a *7
61Generation Gap
HVS 5a 3
62Corner climb
 Black Zawn 
64Toccata Crack
VD 15
65Crack and CornerVD 1
S 2
HS 5
68Conquistadores *E2 5b * 
69Rhos Beef *E4 6a * 
70Slab And Scoop *
VD 1
71You're no Nelson *
VD **1
72Perfectly Pointless *
HS 4a 1
73A Bridge Too Far *
VD 1
74Sonata Crack *D 1
75Takahe *E1 5a * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ianstevens