Climbs 145
Rocktype Quartzite

Faces S

Steve Boote on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.
Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sea Cave Zawn 
2Symphony CrackD ***291
3Fear Test
-
E3 5b *6
4Daddy on Sight
-
E3 5c  
5Fan FareHVS 4c **37
6Hi,Jack!
-
VS 4b 13
7Flobalob
-
HVS 4c 2
8Electric BlueE4 5c ***192
9Solo Suprise
-
S 1
10Kissing the Pink
-
E2 5b *15
11Solo Slab
-
D *19
12Round the HornE5 6a *5
13In to The Deep
-
E2 5b 1
14Eric
-
E1 5b 1
15Wellectic
-
E4 6a  
16Tomorrow has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest)
-
VS 4c *16
17Tetrion
-
E1 5a 2
18Triffids
-
VS 4c 3
19Ciment Fondue
-
E2 5b *3
20Aquaseal
-
E1 5b 2
21Tomorrow is Reinstated
-
E1 5b 1
22The Motombo
-
E3 5c * 
23The Tum Tum TreeE5 6a  
24Magellan's Wall
-
E4 6a ***45
25Gimble in the WabeE7 6b ***3
26The Frumious BandersnatchE7 6c *** 
27The Jub-Jub Bird
-
E6 6b ***8
28The Trail of Tears
-
E4 6a ***27
29E.P.Special
-
E3 6a 1
30Drunk on Arrival
-
E3 6a * 
 Fallen Block Zawn 
32TruantVS 4c **147
33The ViperE4 5c **32
34GodzillaE4 5c **63
35CentrefoldE3 5c ***129
36Dreams and ScreamsE6 6b ***16
37Sea Shanty
-
VS 4c 14
38S.... Hawk Alley
-
D 10
39The Trip
-
VS 4c 4
40Human Camel
-
VS 5a 9
41Baggers Crack
-
S 33
42Helios
-
E5 6b  
43Cocaine
-
E1 5b 7
 Llawder Zawn 
45Little QueenieE1 5b **32
46The Wild RoverE1 5b **261
47Mainlinin'
-
E4 6a 1
48El Dorado
-
E1 10
49The Mask of the Red DeathE3 5c **154
50WarpathE5 6a ***130
51The SunE3 5c ***284
52Big Boys
-
E5 6a 9
53Shine On You Crazy DiamondE6 6b ** 
54Medicine Man
-
E4 6a  
55IcarusHVS 5a **405
56DaedalusE1 5a *17
57The Savage SunbirdE2 5b **290
58The Cocktail Trip
-
E4 5c 12
59Adrenalin
-
E3 5c 2
60Sunset Slab
-
VD 11
61WaxwingE1 5b 13
62Serpant
-
HVS 5b 2
63The Cruel SeaHVS 5a *7
64Generation Gap
-
HVS 5a 3
65Corner climb
-
D  
 Black Zawn 
67Toccata Crack
-
VD 17
68Crack and CornerVD 3
69Patella
-
S 3
70Blackbits
-
HS 5
71Conquistadores *E2 5b *2
72Rhos Beef *E4 6a * 
73Slab And Scoop *
-
VD 1
74You're no Nelson *
-
VD **1
75Perfectly Pointless *
-
HS 4a 1
76A Bridge Too Far *
-
VD 1
77Sonata Crack *D 1
78TakaheE2 5a *11
79Bigger Girls *E6 6b **1
80Warpath-Sun Combination *E3 5c **2
81January Jaunts *
-
D 1
82Serpent *
-
HVS 5b 2
83Sundance *E2 5b  
84Takahe (P2a ArÍte finish variation) *E2 5b *3
85Truant Right Hand *
-
E2 5b 2
86The Absconders Finish *
-
HVS 5b *1
87Cocktail Trip Direct *E4 6a *1
88Too Hard For Young Men *E7 6b,6c 1
 Porth Saint 
90Surreal Appeal
-
E7 6b * 
91Easel-EE
-
E7 6c * 
92Treasure IslandHVD 1
93Bow Planes
-
HS 4b 1
94Neptune's NutsE1 5c  
95SeraphimHVS 5a 3
96Up PeriscopeHS 4b 3
97Conning TowerHS 4b 2
98Torpedo Tubes
-
S 4a  
99Nine ExtractionsHVS 5a 3
100Leviathon
-
E2 5c  
101NostromoVS 5a 2
102Jesters
-
HS 4b  
103The Mole Catcher
-
S 4a  
104Joker's Wall
-
VS 4c  
105Jack of Clubs
-
VS 4c  
106Going Blind
-
VS 4c  
107Queen of Hearts
-
VS 4c 5
108Watership Clown
-
S 4a *6
109The Death of The WitchE1 5a 4
110Eliminate E1
-
E1 5b  
111Sea Spray WallVS 4b/c *7
112For the Girl Who Makes Hats
-
HVS 5a *2
113Letters Through the Mail
-
S 4a *10
114Time and Tide Wait for No Man
-
VS 4c 1
115The WatchtowerHVS 5a 1
116For Whom the Light Shines
-
HVS 5b  
117Out of Gas
-
D  
118Pink-Hippo-Camp-BusVS 4c 2
119The Cormorant
-
VS 4c  
120Rhino
-
VS 4b 1
121Slippery When Wet
-
VS 4a  
122Claustraphobia Gully
-
D  
123Fear of Sharp Things
-
E1 5a  
124Aviophobia
-
HS 4b 4
125Catapaphobia
-
VS 4c  
126The Lineback Offensive
-
E1 5b  
127Hydrophobia 2
-
E2 5b * 
128Autophobia
-
HVS 4c * 
129Hydrophobia 1
-
E2 5b * 
130Nige's Ramp
-
E2 5b * 
131Nige's Arete
-
E1 5a  
132The Vipper
-
E1 5b * 
133Darjeeling
-
VS 5a  
134Maelstrom in a Teacup
-
VS 4c  
135Coffee Black and Egg White
-
HVS 5a  
136Tidal Threats
-
E5 6a * 
137Grasp on Reality
-
E1 5a * 
138The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
HVS 5a  
139Generation Gap
-
E1 5b  
140White Water Wall
-
E2 5c  
141The MutinyVS 4b  
142Missing Presumed Dead
-
E5 6b * 
143December Days
-
VS  
144A Friend in Need
-
VD  
145Unnamed
-
VS 4c  
146The Smiling Coastguard
-
HVS 5a  
147Scorpion *
-
HVS 5a 1
148Applegate Crack *
-
HS 4a 1
149War Wounds *
-
E1 5b 1
150It Ain't Fast Food *
-
E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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