Climbs 147
Rocktype Quartzite

Faces S

Steve Boote on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.
Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sea Cave Zawn 
2Symphony CrackD ***296
3Fear Test
-
E3 5b *6
4Daddy on Sight
-
E3 5c  
5Fan FareHVS 4c **44
6Hi,Jack!
-
VS 4b 13
7Flobalob
-
HVS 4c 2
8Electric BlueE4 5c ***195
9Solo Suprise
-
S 1
10Kissing the PinkE3 5c *15
11Solo Slab
-
D *19
12Round the HornE5 6a *5
13In to The Deep
-
E2 5b 1
14Eric
-
E1 5b 1
15Wellectic
-
E4 6a  
16Tomorrow has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest)
-
VS 4c *16
17Tetrion
-
E1 5a 2
18Triffids
-
VS 4c 3
19Ciment Fondue
-
E2 5b *3
20Aquaseal
-
E1 5b 2
21Tomorrow is Reinstated
-
E1 5b 1
22The Motombo
-
E3 5c * 
23The Tum Tum TreeE5 6a  
24Magellan's Wall
-
E4 6a ***53
25Gimble in the WabeE7 6b ***3
26The Frumious BandersnatchE7 6c *** 
27The Jub-Jub Bird
-
E6 6b ***8
28The Trail of Tears
-
E4 6a ***27
29E.P.Special
-
E3 6a 1
30Drunk on Arrival
-
E3 6a *1
 Fallen Block Zawn 
32TruantVS 4c **148
33The ViperE4 5c **35
34GodzillaE4 5c **74
35CentrefoldE3 5c ***134
36Dreams and ScreamsE6 6b ***22
37Sea Shanty
-
VS 4c 14
38S.... Hawk Alley
-
D 10
39The Trip
-
VS 4c 5
40Human Camel
-
VS 5a 9
41Baggers Crack
-
S 34
42Helios
-
E5 6b  
43Cocaine
-
E1 5b 7
 Llawder Zawn 
45Little QueenieE1 5b **32
46The Wild RoverE1 5b **269
47Mainlinin'
-
E4 6a 1
48El Dorado
-
E1 12
49The Mask of the Red DeathE3 5c **162
50WarpathE5 6a ***162
51The SunE3 5c ***298
52Big Boys on the WarpathE5 6a 1
53Big Boys
-
E5 6a 10
54Shine On You Crazy DiamondE6 6b ** 
55Medicine Man
-
E4 6a  
56IcarusHVS 5a **418
57DaedalusE1 5a *19
58The Savage SunbirdE2 5b **302
59The Cocktail Trip
-
E4 5c 12
60Adrenalin
-
E3 5c 2
61Sunset Slab
-
VD 11
62WaxwingE1 5b 13
63Serpant
-
HVS 5b 2
64The Cruel SeaHVS 5a *7
65Generation Gap
-
HVS 5a 3
66Corner climb
-
D  
 Black Zawn 
68Toccata Crack
-
VD 19
69Crack and CornerVD 3
70Patella
-
S 3
71Blackbits
-
HS 5
72ConquistadoresE2 5b *4
73Rhos BeefE4 6a *1
74Slab And Scoop
-
VD 1
75You're no Nelson
-
VD **1
76Perfectly Pointless
-
HS 4a 1
77A Bridge Too Far
-
VD 1
78Sonata CrackD 1
79TakaheE2 5a *11
80Bigger GirlsE6 6b **1
81Warpath-Sun CombinationE3 5c **2
82January Jaunts
-
D 1
83Serpent
-
HVS 5b 2
84SundanceE2 5b  
85Takahe (P2a ArÍte finish variation)E2 5b *5
86Truant Right Hand
-
E2 5b 2
87The Absconders Finish
-
HVS 5b *2
88Cocktail Trip DirectE4 6a *1
89Too Hard For Young MenE7 6b,6c 1
 Porth Saint 
91Surreal Appeal
-
E7 6b * 
92Easel-EE
-
E7 6c * 
93Treasure IslandHVD 2
94Bow Planes
-
HS 4b 1
95Neptune's NutsE1 5c  
96SeraphimHVS 5a 3
97Up PeriscopeHS 4b 3
98Conning TowerHS 4b 2
99Torpedo Tubes
-
S 4a  
100Nine ExtractionsHVS 5a 4
101Leviathon
-
E2 5c  
102NostromoVS 5a 2
103Jesters
-
HS 4b  
104The Mole Catcher
-
S 4a  
105Joker's Wall
-
VS 4c  
106Jack of Clubs
-
VS 4c  
107Going Blind
-
VS 4c  
108Queen of Hearts
-
VS 4c 6
109Watership Clown
-
S 4a *7
110The Death of The WitchE1 5a 9
111Eliminate E1
-
E1 5b  
112Sea Spray WallVS 4b/c *10
113For the Girl Who Makes Hats
-
HVS 5a *6
114Letters Through the Mail
-
S 4a *10
115Time and Tide Wait for No Man
-
VS 4c 2
116The WatchtowerHVS 5a 5
117For Whom the Light Shines
-
HVS 5b 1
118Out of Gas
-
D  
119Pink-Hippo-Camp-BusVS 4c 3
120The Cormorant
-
VS 4c 1
121Rhino
-
VS 4b 2
122Slippery When Wet
-
VS 4a  
123Claustraphobia Gully
-
D 1
124Fear of Sharp Things
-
E1 5a 3
125Aviophobia
-
HS 4b 4
126Catapaphobia
-
VS 4c 1
127The Lineback Offensive
-
E1 5b 1
128Hydrophobia 2
-
E2 5b * 
129Autophobia
-
HVS 4c * 
130Hydrophobia 1
-
E2 5b * 
131Nige's Ramp
-
E2 5b * 
132Nige's Arete
-
E1 5a  
133The Vipper
-
E1 5b * 
134Darjeeling
-
VS 5a  
135Maelstrom in a Teacup
-
VS 4c  
136Coffee Black and Egg White
-
HVS 5a  
137Tidal Threats
-
E5 6a * 
138Grasp on Reality
-
E1 5a * 
139The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
HVS 5a  
140Generation Gap
-
E1 5b  
141White Water Wall
-
E2 5c  
142The MutinyVS 4b  
143Missing Presumed Dead
-
E5 6b * 
144December Days
-
VS  
145A Friend in Need
-
VD  
146Unnamed
-
VS 4c  
147The Smiling Coastguard
-
HVS 5a  
148Scorpion *
-
HVS 5a 1
149Applegate Crack *
-
HS 4a 1
150War Wounds *
-
E1 5b 1
151It Ain't Fast Food *
-
E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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