Altitude 344m a.s.l
Wrong ladder? © Red Rover
Amazing routes up to 66m, including the extremely worrying (if run-outs worry you) California Arête (E1 4c) or the vast 66m Central Sadness (E5 6a), or then the better-protected Stairway to Silence (E6 6b) and Big Sur (E6 6c). Only one route each at E1, E2 and E3 though.
A self-contained quarry hole (but deep!) to the R and behind Dali's Hole. From Bus Stop Quarry head as if for DH, then follow the rising path around the R side of the weird pool. Up the scree slope to the tunnel mouth. Continue. Out of this is part of the area, but the rest is through another (wet) tunnel to the area's floor.
The quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing is offically not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However climbing is tolerated if climbers generally keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who is concerned that continued use by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff. BMC advice remains unchanged -please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
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