Climbs 31
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 344m a.s.l
Faces S

Wrong ladder? © Red Rover

Crag features

Amazing routes up to 66m, including the extremely worrying (if run-outs worry you) California Arête (E1 4c) or the vast 66m Central Sadness (E5 6a), or then the better-protected Stairway to Silence (E6 6b) and Big Sur (E6 6c). Only one route each at E1, E2 and E3 though.

Approach notes

A self-contained quarry hole (but deep!) to the R and behind Dali's Hole. From Bus Stop Quarry head as if for DH, then follow the rising path around the R side of the weird pool. Up the scree slope to the tunnel mouth. Continue. Out of this is part of the area, but the rest is through another (wet) tunnel to the area's floor.

Access Advice

The quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing is offically not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However climbing is tolerated if climbers generally keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who is concerned that continued use by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff. BMC advice remains unchanged -please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 first hole / walls 
2Ya Twistin Ma Melon ManE3 6a 1
3The SneakingE4 5c 1
4The HobbitE5 6b *1
 above second tunnel exit 
6Tambourine Man8a **2
7We no speak Americano!6a **40
8A Pair Of SixE3 5c *3
9Slabs Us7b *2
10ShtimuliE4 6a * 
11Aultimers GrooveE2 5c 1
12Californian AreteE1 4c ***116
13Wedlock Holiday
-
E5 6b * 
14Classy SituationsE2 5a 1
 first hole upper wall 
16Pitch TwoE4 6b  
17Midnight FlierE5 6b  
 main wall 
19The Wooley (or Won't He) Jumper
-
E3 6a  
20Unpaid BillsE5 6b *2
21Primal Ice CreamE3 5b 1
22Esprit de Corpse
-
E4 6b *8
23Simply Peach
-
E5 6b *2
24Sad Old RedE5 6a *1
25The Madcap Laughs
-
E3 6a * 
26Spider Pants
-
E6 6b ** 
27Central SadnessE5 6a ***42
28Dwarf ShortageE4 6a **4
29Sombre Music
-
E6 6b * 
30The Big Sur
-
E6 6c **1
31Waves of InspirationE5 6a ***37
32Stairway to Silence
-
E7 6b *** 
33Snakes And Ladders (and Tunnels)HVS 576
34The California Express3+ 13
35Fruit of the GloomXS 5b **1

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