Climbs 73
Rocktype Slate

Faces W

A severe case of belay midge depression on Patellaectomy © Andrew Stelmach

Crag features

A secluded area with some deeply worrying routes (VDiff leaders, this is not the place to start) but also some good stuff. Routes up to 30m (the E6 may be 60m) with gems like Kubla Khan (E4 6a), Short Stories (E4 6a) and Never Never Land (E5 6a).

Approach notes

From the dip in the path by Dali's Hole continue for 200m past a circular slate air vent on the L. Continue on (rather than L for Serengeti) past a ruined building. Walk round L to the bottom of a large slab with a stepped groove.

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It looks as though there's been some recent rockfall in the Monkey Bar area. The chimney on Patellaectomy now contains a very precariously balanced block and is wider than before. Thought quite a few large blocks looked as though they've recently come down in this area...didn't want to hang around for too long!
Kevin Bowser - 09/Sep/15
Monkey bar area is easiest to access from near dali's hole. When dalis hole gate is reached at bottom of dip, hop over the gate on the opposite side, and follow level round to the left, where you should soon find the required area..
chrisdavies - 13/Feb/13
For those looking for Monkey Bar Area: the crag is level with the ruined building but is on the opposite side of the main footpath, and is situated below the level of the path. It can be accessed via an easy path which leads off to the right (runs parallel to the main path) when the main path dips by Dali's Hole.
Ragingpossum - 12/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2Hawk Eye5c *276
3Fresh Air5c **606
4Swiss Air6c *26
5Breaking WindHVS 5a 2
6Hot Air CrackHVS 5b 3
7State of the Heart6c+ **25
8Yossarian6b 9
9Steps of Escher6b+ 12
11Back in the Saddle6b+ *28
12Tomb Raider6a *204
13Road to NowhereVD 1
14Rodent to NowhereE1 5a 3
153626a *276
16Pipers at the Gates of DawnE5 6b  
17ScheherezadeE4 6b **91
18The Machine in the GhostE5 6b **12
19Never Never LandE5 6a ***28
20Khubla KhanE3 6b **107
21Dark and Scary StoriesE5 6b *1
22Short StoriesE4 6a ***85
23GhengisE5 6a *8
24Andy PandyE1 5a  
25The Ascent of the VikingsE1 6a  
 medusa`s lare 
27Release the Kraken!6b+ *59
28The Carbon Stage6c+ **32
29Zeus6a+ *142
30Titan4c *156
32Watch Me Wallaby Wank, FrankE3 6a *126
33Kookaburra WaltzE4 6a 2
34Squashing the AcropodsE1 5b *7
35Igam-OgamE4 6a *15
 shame and embarrasment wall area 
37The Gargoyle6a+ 20
6a+ 7
39Stairlift to HeavenE1 5a 2
40Shame and EmbarrassmentE5 6b  
41Bar of SoapE1 5b  
42Suspension of DisbeliefE4 6a  
43Name UnknownE3 6a  
44Watford Gap WestVS 4b 3
46SnapE1 5a 11
47AlpenE1 5b 10
48Free GiftS 1
49CrackleVS 4c 15
50PopHVS 5b 3
52Cry WolfM9 ***2
53One Hundred Words for No SnowM9+ ***5
54Shock the MonkeyHVS 5a 20
55RastamouseM7+ **5
56The DeerhunterM7 22
57Monkey-Bar KidM6+ 39
58BambiM9+ **1
59IbexM7 31
60Rest in Pete's EatsE1 5a  
61Home RunE2 6a *8
62Monkey see Monkey doE2 5b 1
63PatellaectomyE1 5c **66
64Beyon the Pail7a *3
65Pail Rider6c+ *4
66A Little Pail6b+ *16
67Sleazy RiderE1 5a 1
68Dyke RiderE2 5b 6
69Penblwydd Hapus(i fi)6c 2
70Offa's6b *3
 over there land 
72Cavity Wall7c **2
73Easy for Caterpillars7a 2
74Ibex DirectM8 2
75Let Yourself Go!7a *3
76Super Slinky6c *2
77Dog and Bone6a 2
78Graze anatomy6a+ 10
79Operation Zig Zag5c **3
80Never Fallf6B+ 2
81Octogenarian5b *3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies