Climbs 97
Rocktype Slate

Faces W

A severe case of belay midge depression on Patellaectomy © Andrew Stelmach

Crag features

A secluded area with some deeply worrying routes (VDiff leaders, this is not the place to start) but also some good stuff. Routes up to 30m (the E6 may be 60m) with gems like Kubla Khan (E4 6a), Short Stories (E4 6a) and Never Never Land (E5 6a).

Approach notes

From the dip in the path by Dali's Hole continue for 200m past a circular slate air vent on the L. Continue on (rather than L for Serengeti) past a ruined building. Walk round L to the bottom of a large slab with a stepped groove.

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Guidebooks

It looks as though there's been some recent rockfall in the Monkey Bar area. The chimney on Patellaectomy now contains a very precariously balanced block and is wider than before. Thought quite a few large blocks looked as though they've recently come down in this area...didn't want to hang around for too long!
Kevin Bowser - 09/Sep/15
Monkey bar area is easiest to access from near dali's hole. When dalis hole gate is reached at bottom of dip, hop over the gate on the opposite side, and follow level round to the left, where you should soon find the required area..
chrisdavies - 13/Feb/13
For those looking for Monkey Bar Area: the crag is level with the ruined building but is on the opposite side of the main footpath, and is situated below the level of the path. It can be accessed via an easy path which leads off to the right (runs parallel to the main path) when the main path dips by Dali's Hole.
Ragingpossum - 12/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 NUREMBURG 
2Hawk Eye5c *339
3Fresh Air5c **732
4Swiss Air6c *33
5Breaking WindHVS 5a 3
6Hot Air CrackHVS 5b 3
7State of the Heart6c+ **41
8Yossarian6b 10
9Steps of Escher6b+ 13
 NEVER NEVER LAND SLAB 
11Back in the Saddle6b+ *37
12Tomb Raider6a *241
13Road to NowhereVD 2
14Rodent to NowhereE1 5a 3
15Octogenarian5b *28
163626a *348
17Pipers at the Gates of DawnE5 6b  
18ScheherezadeE4 6b **104
19The Machine in the GhostE5 6b **14
20Never Never LandE5 6a ***28
21Khubla KhanE3 6b **121
22Dark and Scary StoriesE5 6b *3
23Short StoriesE4 6a ***105
24GhengisE5 6a *8
25Andy PandyE1 5a  
26Dog and Bone6a 5
27The Ascent of the VikingsE1 6a  
 medusa`s lare 
29Operation Zig Zag5c **4
30Release the Kraken!6b+ *83
31The Carbon Stage6c+ **32
32Zeus6a+ *194
33Titan4c *203
34Graze anatomy6a+ 21
 THE UPPER TIER 
36Watch Me Wallaby Wank, FrankE3 6a *136
37Kookaburra WaltzE4 6a 2
38Squashing the AcropodsE1 5b *9
39Igam-OgamE4 6a *16
 shame and embarrasment wall area 
41The Gargoyle6a+ 23
42Obsession
-
6a+ 11
43Stairlift to HeavenE1 5a 2
44Shame and EmbarrassmentE5 6b  
45Bar of SoapE1 5b  
46Suspension of DisbeliefE4 6a  
47Name UnknownE3 6a  
48Watford Gap WestVS 4b 3
 funky gibbon boulder area 
50Supergroovyf6A+ *1
51Brownstone Aretef5+ 1
52Between The Linesf6A 1
53Swingometerf6A *1
54Diamond Geezerf4 1
55Do The Funky Gibbonf6B **1
56Ripple Groove.f6A+ *1
57The ripple mantlef6A 1
58Shelf Lifef6A 1
59Dune Groove.f6B+ *1
60Tippy Toe Traversef5 1
 LOWER TIER 
62SnapE1 5a 14
63AlpenE1 5b 15
64Free GiftS 3
65CrackleVS 4c 18
66PopHVS 5b 6
67Never Fallf6B+ 2
 MONKEY BAR AREA 
69Cry WolfM9 ***2
70One Hundred Words for No SnowM9+ ***5
71Shock the MonkeyHVS 5a 21
72RastamouseM7+ **5
73The DeerhunterM7 22
74Monkey-Bar KidM6+ 45
75BambiM9+ **1
76IbexM7 33
77Ibex DirectM8 4
78Rest in Pete's EatsE1 5a  
79Home RunE2 6a *8
80Monkey see Monkey doE2 5b 1
81PatellaectomyE1 5c **101
82Beyon the Pail7a *3
83Pail Rider6c+ *12
84A Little Pail6b+ *20
85Sleazy RiderE1 5a 1
86Dyke RiderE2 5b 10
87Penblwydd Hapus(i fi)6c 2
88Offa's6b *3
 over there land 
90Cavity Wall7c **8
91Easy for Caterpillars7a 4
92Let Yourself Go!7a *5
93Super Slinky6c *4
94Tricky Trev's techy trav *f6A 1
95Crack a goo goo *f4 *1
96Pinch an inch *f6A 1
97The smiler *f4 1
98Macsen *6a 13
99High steppe *f6A 1
100Thief *f6A+ 1
101A little bit of both. *f6B 1
102Zloty *f6B 1
103Fruitcake handshake *f5+ 1
104Smiler arete *f3+  
105Learning to Fly *5a 1
106Donkey Rider *E1 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies