Twll Mawr

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Not for the faint-hearted or soft-headed, some loose rock so helmets advised. Twll Mawr is the home of some amazing routes, single and multi-pitch up to 219 metres the nearest Britain really has to Yosemite. (Leo Houlding spent a lot of time here.) The Big Hole is home to the famously impressive 'The Quarryman' (E8 7a) and 'The Meltdown' 9a. A number of single and multi pitch sport routes have been added over recent years including the 2 longest multi pitch sport routes in the UK, 'The Rock Bottom Line' 135 metres and 'The Desolation of Smaug' 145 metres.

Access notes
From Bus Stop Quarry continue along the path, beyond Dalis and Never Never Land. The huge vista of rock should be obvious as you go on.

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn (2003), Slate (1992), The Slate Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WATFORD GAP  
2In Between Red and GreenE1 5a  
3Snoring ExploringE1 5b  
4Watford Gap WestVS 4b 3
 COMBAT ROCK AREA  
6Combat RockE1 5a *115
7Tunnel VisionV5 1
8Graffiti Drive ByV4 1
9RhyfelwrE2 5b *29
10Teenage KicksE4 6a * 
11Purple HazeE3 5b *9
12The Color PurpleE4 6a *3
13Cyclone BE3 6a 1
 THE ALCOVE  
15Lethal InjectionE2 5c 1
16Legal MurdersE3 6a *2
17Top GearE1 5b  
18Drunken LaughsE2 5b  
 THE QUARRYMAN WALL  
20BeijqueiroE3 6b *6
21Fleur-de-lisE6 6c ** 
22Coeur de LionE8 7a *** 
23The Meltdown9a *** 
24BlockheadE7 6c  
25King of the MezzE7 6c * 
26The QuarrymanE8 7a ***1
27The Fire EscapeE7 6c ** 
28Mike's TromboneE6 6a/b *** 
29Phil's HarmonicaE6 6c  
30The Wonderful World of Walt DisneyE6 6b ***5
31The DykeE6 6a  
32The Gay BladeE6 6a  
33The Rock Bottom Line7b+ ***7
 THE NORTH WALL  
35Opening GambitXS 5c 2
36HamadryadE3 5c  
37The Desolation of Smaug!6c **25
38AntiquarianE5 6a  
39The Razor's EdgeE3 6b  
40The True FinishE4 6b  
41BushmasterE3 6b  
42ScorpionXS 5b  
43Taith MawrE4 6a * 
44The Punters RetreatE3 5b  
45Bonza CrackHVS 5b *2
 THE SOUTH WALL UPPER  
47Practically EsotericE2 5c *1
48Birdman of Cae'r BerllanE2 5c  
49WolfhoundE4 6a * 
 THE SOUTH WALL  
51Booooom, Blast & RuinVS 4c *1
52Dark Side of the Moon7b *1
53Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun7a **3
54Imagine Dragons6b *3
55Cam-ikaze CornerE3 6a * 
56Black Holes and Revelations - The Wobbly Ladder Pitch6b **1
57Black Holes and Revelations7a **6
58In the Line of FireProject  
59Supermassive Black Hole7a ***45
60Running Scared7c+ * 
61Black Hole Sun7a+ ***24
 GOLGOTHA  
63The Daddy ClubE1 5b  
64Green Slip7a  
65Slip of the TongueE6 6c ** 
66Slip Sliding AwayE5 6b * 
67Split DecisionE6 6c ** 
68Tales of the golden MonkeyE2 5c * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ian Ll-J

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some links for The Rock Bottom Line, Supermassive Black Hole, Black Hole Sun and Black Holes and Revelations... http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/10/uks-longest-sport-route/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/07/four-pitch-sport-route-added-to-twll-mawr/ http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2011/11/like-father-like-son/
ian Ll-J - 04/Jun/12
Check out my photosynth panoramic at the base of SuperMassive Black Hole in Twill Mawr: http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=14473c30-e651-4868-aaf2-4e32706160a1&m=false&i=0:0:0&c=0:0:0&z=548.482755730145&d=-1.24564770520284:-1.17570765130743:-1.16470582811073&p=0:0&t=False
Jonny2vests - 11/Sep/11
A historical account of Joe Brown's early explorations in Twll Mawr...Note to self - must remember the beer next time next time I'm new routing in there :o) http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1970-1%20Journal-p31-38.pdf
ian Ll-J - 11/Sep/11