Gideon Quarries

Climbs 64 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A collection of quarries containing some fantastic routes and some not so fantastic. Adventurous, committing, big, out of fashion, off-widths, loose rock and some undeniably brilliant classics. Glyn Rhonwy has it all and days spent here are not going to be easily forgotten.

Notable routes include Gideon (HVS) (the first recorded slate route), Giddy Variations on a Theme (E2), Cracking Up (E2), Gender Bender (E3), the Bone People (E4), the Second Coming (E4), The Bridge Across Forever (E5), Synthetic Life (7a+) and Senior Citizen Smith (E6).

More recently a new power scheme has been given the go ahead for the area and the future access of the quarries is unknown. It sounds like Mancer Quarry will become totally restricted, so if you want to climb the famous off-widths Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar then do them now before its too late.

Approach notes
Not owned by Gwynedd County Council. Essential to keep a low profile. Seasonal bird ban of The Bone People and dry tooling area of Gideon Quarry from 1st March to 30th June.

Take the road opposite Pete's Eats in Llanberis out of town and up the hill. Layby parking next to the gate on the uphill side of the road.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Llanberis Slate (2011), Slate (1992), The Slate Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Liquid ArmbarE4 6a **3
3The Mancer DirectE3 5b **2
4The Mancer Original StartE1 4c  
5Good CrackE3 6a *1
6I Don't Wanna PickleE4 6a  
7Blah de Blah de Blah!E4 5c  
8DamoclesHVS 5a  
9Clippopotamus6b * 
11The Second ComingE4 6c ** 
12Monsieur AvantskiE4 6a *1
13Gender BenderE3 6b ** 
14Marital AidsE5 6b  
15The Trash Heap Has SpokenE1 5a  
16The Trash Heap Speaks AgainVS 4b  
17Mental BlockVS 4c  
18Layed Back BoysE2 5b  
19Arse Over TitVS 4c  
20Arrampicata SpeiligoneE1 5a  
21Old Fogies Never DieVS 4b  
22Bring me the head of Don QuixoteE2 5a  
23Near Dark (After Dark)E2 5b *1
25Beating the Raine7b * 
26Autocrat6b *2
27Wobbly Variations on a SlabE2 5a  
28Giddy Variations on a ThemeE2 5b **6
29GideonHVS 4c *9
30Blue BottleHVS  
31Pandora Plays SaxHVS 4c **3
32Pandora Plays Sax Direct StartE4 5c/6a * 
33Pandora's Box finishHVS 4b  
34Ultra Cricket ZoneE4 5c/6a  
35The Climbing Pains of Adrian MoleHVS 5b  
36The Gnarly SPAR KidE2 6a 9
37The MosquitoE6 6c * 
38Los Alamos6c 2
39The Hand of MorlockE4 6a **6
40Ladybird Girl/Giddy OneE3 6a *2
41Kennys Wall5c 4
42I PodV2 * 
43Psyche And The ZephersV4 *1
44Uhuru for MandelaE2 5c  
45The Rothwell IncidentXS 5b 1
46Cracking UpE2 5c/6a **13
47Cracked UpHVS 5b 1
48Synthetic Life7a+ ***2
49The Bone PeopleE4 6a ***3
50The Bridge Across ForeverE5 6b ***2
51Senior Citizen SmithE6 6b ***2
52Chain WallM8+ ** 
54Cabin Fever5c * 
56Clegir AreteHVS 5a  
59Twisted NerveE4 6a/b  
60A Big Wall ClimbXS  
61Friendly ArgumentE2 5b  
63The Reclining BloonE4 6a  
64The New SalesmanE4 6b * 
65Carneddau Flash GogglesE1 5a  
66The WrigglerE1 5a * 
68Way Down in the HoleE1 5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tim newton

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The hangers on the ab/belay bolts on Near Dark and Kenny's Wall are missing. Good tree 10m back for Near Dark, 30m ab from tree to ledges at the bottom. Thought it was E3 5c, bottom slab is 5c, top slab is very bold. Good fence posts for Kenny's Wall 10m back. Also did Pandora Plays Sax. Thought it was harder than Gideon and close to E1. Decent gear close to the belay on P2, but then nothing worthwhile for about 20m. Also went to do Cabin Fever, but it is now mossed over. If you see any sunglasses up there, they're mine!
edwardwoodward - 02/Aug/15