Climbs 64
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces all

The start is hard until the crack opens up © Phil Ashton

Crag features

A collection of quarries containing some fantastic routes and some not so fantastic. Adventurous, committing, big, out of fashion, off-widths, loose rock and some undeniably brilliant classics. Glyn Rhonwy has it all and days spent here are not going to be easily forgotten.

Notable routes include Gideon (HVS) (the first recorded slate route), Giddy Variations on a Theme (E2), Cracking Up (E2), Gender Bender (E3), the Bone People (E4), the Second Coming (E4), The Bridge Across Forever (E5), Synthetic Life (7a+) and Senior Citizen Smith (E6).

More recently a new power scheme has been given the go ahead for the area and the future access of the quarries is unknown. It sounds like Mancer Quarry will become totally restricted, so if you want to climb the famous off-widths Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar then do them now before its too late.

Approach notes

Not owned by Gwynedd County Council. Essential to keep a low profile. Seasonal bird ban of The Bone People and dry tooling area of Gideon Quarry from 1st March to 30th June.

Take the road opposite Pete's Eats in Llanberis out of town and up the hill. Layby parking next to the gate on the uphill side of the road.

Access Advice

There have been serious problems here in the past but access is now less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who offically do not allow access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of access problems for many years.

The hangers on the ab/belay bolts on Near Dark and Kenny's Wall are missing. Good tree 10m back for Near Dark, 30m ab from tree to ledges at the bottom. Thought it was E3 5c, bottom slab is 5c, top slab is very bold. Good fence posts for Kenny's Wall 10m back. Also did Pandora Plays Sax. Thought it was harder than Gideon and close to E1. Decent gear close to the belay on P2, but then nothing worthwhile for about 20m. Also went to do Cabin Fever, but it is now mossed over. If you see any sunglasses up there, they're mine!
edwardwoodward - 02/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Mancer Quarry 
2Liquid ArmbarE4 6a **3
3The Mancer Direct
-
E3 5b **2
4The Mancer Original Start
-
E1 4c  
5Good Crack
-
E3 6a *1
6I Don't Wanna Pickle
-
E4 6a  
7Blah de Blah de Blah!
-
E4 5c  
8Damocles
-
HVS 5a  
9Clippopotamus
-
6b * 
 Film Set Quarry 
11The Second Coming
-
E4 6c **1
12Monsieur AvantskiE4 6a *1
13Gender Bender
-
E3 6b ** 
14Marital Aids
-
E5 6b  
15The Trash Heap Has Spoken
-
E1 5a  
16The Trash Heap Speaks Again
-
VS 4b  
17Mental Block
-
VS 4c  
18Layed Back Boys
-
E2 5b  
19Arse Over Tit
-
VS 4c  
20Arrampicata Speiligone
-
E1 5a  
21Old Fogies Never Die
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VS 4b  
22Bring me the head of Don QuixoteE2 5a  
23Near Dark (After Dark)
-
E2 5b *2
 Gideon Quarry 
25Beating the Raine
-
7b * 
26Autocrat
-
6b *2
27Wobbly Variations on a Slab
-
E2 5a  
28Giddy Variations on a Theme
-
E2 5b **6
29Gideon
-
HVS 4c *11
30Blue Bottle
-
HVS  
31Pandora Plays Sax
-
HVS 4c **5
32Pandora Plays Sax Direct Start
-
E4 5c/6a *1
33Pandora's Box finish
-
HVS 4b  
34Ultra Cricket Zone
-
E4 5c/6a  
35The Climbing Pains of Adrian Mole
-
HVS 5b  
36The Gnarly SPAR KidE2 6a 11
37The Mosquito
-
E6 6c * 
38Los Alamos6c 3
39The Hand of MorlockE4 6a **8
40Ladybird Girl/Giddy OneE3 6a *2
41Kennys Wall
-
5c 4
42I PodV2 * 
43Psyche And The ZephersV4 *1
44Uhuru for Mandela
-
E2 5c  
45The Rothwell IncidentXS 5b 1
46Cracking UpE2 5c/6a **17
47Cracked Up
-
HVS 5b 1
48Synthetic Life7a+ ***2
49The Bone People
-
E4 6a ***4
50The Bridge Across Forever
-
E5 6b ***2
51Senior Citizen SmithE6 6b ***3
52Chain Wall
-
M8+ ** 
 The Rain Temple Quarry 
54Cabin Fever
-
5c *1
 Shotgun Quarry 
56Clegir Arete
-
HVS 5a  
57Unnamed
-
E1  
 Wall in the Hole Quarry 
59Twisted Nerve
-
E4 6a/b  
60A Big Wall Climb
-
XS  
61Friendly Argument
-
E2 5b  
 Cefn Du Quarry 
63The Reclining Bloon
-
E4 6a  
64The New Salesman
-
E4 6b * 
65Carneddau Flash Goggles
-
E1 5a  
66The Wriggler
-
E1 5a * 
 Chwarel Fawr 
68Way Down in the Hole
-
E1 5a  
Volunteer to moderate Gideon Quarries
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]