A collection of quarries containing some fantastic routes and some not so fantastic. Adventurous, committing, big, out of fashion, off-widths, loose rock and some undeniably brilliant classics. Glyn Rhonwy has it all and days spent here are not going to be easily forgotten.
Notable routes include Gideon (HVS) (the first recorded slate route), Giddy Variations on a Theme (E2), Cracking Up (E2), Gender Bender (E3), the Bone People (E4), the Second Coming (E4), The Bridge Across Forever (E5), Synthetic Life (7a+) and Senior Citizen Smith (E6).
More recently a new power scheme has been given the go ahead for the area and the future access of the quarries is unknown. It sounds like Mancer Quarry will become totally restricted, so if you want to climb the famous off-widths Mancer Direct and Liquid Armbar then do them now before its too late.
Not owned by Gwynedd County Council. Essential to keep a low profile. Seasonal bird ban of The Bone People and dry tooling area of Gideon Quarry from 1st March to 30th June.
Take the road opposite Pete's Eats in Llanberis out of town and up the hill. Layby parking next to the gate on the uphill side of the road.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Liquid Armbar||E4 6a **||1|
|3||The Mancer Direct||E3 5b **||2|
|4||The Mancer Original Start||E1 4c|
|5||Good Crack||E3 6a *||1|
|6||I Don't Wanna Pickle||E4 6a|
|7||Blah de Blah de Blah!||E4 5c|
|FILM SET QUARRY|
|11||The Second Coming||E4 6c **|
|12||Monsieur Avantski||E4 6a *||1|
|13||Gender Bender||E3 6b **|
|14||Marital Aids||E5 6b|
|15||The Trash Heap Has Spoken||E1 5a|
|16||The Trash Heap Speaks Again||VS 4b|
|17||Mental Block||VS 4c|
|18||Layed Back Boys||E2 5b|
|19||Arse Over Tit||VS 4c|
|20||Arrampicata Speiligone||E1 5a|
|21||Old Fogies Never Die||VS 4b|
|22||Bring me the head of Don Quixote||E2 5a|
|23||Near Dark (After Dark)||E2 5b *||1|
|25||Beating the Raine||7b *|
|27||Wobbly Variations on a Slab||E2 5a|
|28||Giddy Variations on a Theme||E2 5b **||4|
|29||Gideon||HVS 4c *||9|
|31||Pandora Plays Sax||HVS 4c **||3|
|32||Pandora Plays Sax Direct Start||E4 5c/6a *|
|33||Pandora's Box finish||HVS 4b|
|34||Ultra Cricket Zone||E4 5c/6a|
|35||The Climbing Pains of Adrian Mole||HVS 5b|
|36||The Gnarly SPAR Kid||E2 6a||8|
|37||The Mosquito||E6 6c *|
|39||The Hand of Morlock||E4 6a **||5|
|40||Ladybird Girl/Giddy One||E3 6a *||2|
|42||I Pod||V2 *|
|43||Psyche And The Zephers||V4 *||1|
|44||Uhuru for Mandela||E2 5c|
|45||The Rothwell Incident||XS 5b||1|
|46||Cracking Up||E2 5c/6a **||10|
|47||Cracked Up||HVS 5b||1|
|48||Synthetic Life||7a+ ***||2|
|49||The Bone People||E4 6a ***||1|
|50||The Bridge Across Forever||E5 6b ***|
|51||Senior Citizen Smith||E6 6b ***||2|
|52||Chain Wall||M8+ **|
|THE RAIN TEMPLE QUARRY|
|54||Cabin Fever||5c *|
|56||Clegir Arete||HVS 5a|
|WALL IN THE HOLE QUARRY|
|59||Twisted Nerve||E4 6a/b|
|60||A Big Wall Climb||XS|
|61||Friendly Argument||E2 5b|
|CEFN DU QUARRY|
|63||The Reclining Bloon||E4 6a|
|64||The New Salesman||E4 6b *|
|65||Carneddau Flash Goggles||E1 5a|
|66||The Wriggler||E1 5a *|
|68||Way Down in the Hole||E1 5a|
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|The hangers on the ab/belay bolts on Near Dark and Kenny's Wall are missing. Good tree 10m back for Near Dark, 30m ab from tree to ledges at the bottom. Thought it was E3 5c, bottom slab is 5c, top slab is very bold.
Good fence posts for Kenny's Wall 10m back.
Also did Pandora Plays Sax. Thought it was harder than Gideon and close to E1. Decent gear close to the belay on P2, but then nothing worthwhile for about 20m.
Also went to do Cabin Fever, but it is now mossed over. If you see any sunglasses up there, they're mine!|
edwardwoodward - 02/Aug/15