Aonach Mor

Climbs 104 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1200m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
In winter the Aonach's provide great climbing and due to the altitude are fairly reliable and the Gondola makes access easy.

East Face

Coire an Lochain forms a perfect bowl and features a prominent buttress (The Prow) and a series of grooves (Ribbed Walls). Note that cornice build up can be huge and potentially quite dangerous, particularly during a thaw or later in the season when the east face catches a lot of sunshine.

West Face

Despite the proximity to the ski area, the West Face feels remote and adventurous. Most of the route lie directly below the summit of Aonach Mor, and finish just by the summit cairn. Routes are often in condition through the winter, and recover quickly after a thaw. Many variations exist on all the routes, which follow long and continuous granite ribs or gullies.

Access notes
From the Gondola car park follow a path up to a forest track, turn right to a small dam, and then head up to the Gondola station (or take the Gondola to this point).

East Face: Follow the line of ski-tows to the end and drop down Easy Gully to the crag.

West Face: Take the path west from the bottom of the Quad Chair, before dropping steeply to the Allt Daim. The Summit Ribs are approx. 2km to the SW.

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Ben Nevis (2002),
Out of print: Scottish Winter Climbs (1996), Ben Nevis (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Aonach Mor summitsummit 300
2Lord's GrooveIV 4 1
3DownstairsIII 1
 NORTH EAST FACE  
5Sprint GullyIII 1
6President's ButtressIII  
7Hidden GullyII *8
8Ribbon On EdgeIV 6 * 
9SidelineIII 4
 THE PROW  
11Unnamed (Short Groove)III 1
12RiptideIV 4  
13Back Street BoogieVI 6 * 
14The BetrayalIV 4 1
15The WaveV 5  
16The GuardianIV 5 *8
17Stirling BridgeVI 7 ***22
 HOMO BUTTRESS  
19Ribbon GrooveIV 4 *2
20Ribbon VariationIV 4 2
21Gowan HillVI 7 *1
22Homo RobusticusVI 7 **1
23PiranhaVII 8 *3
24The Human BobsleighII 3
25The WebII/III 55
26NauseaII/III 25
27Spider RibII 19
28History Won't MindIV 5 *2
29Easy GullyI 138
 THE RIBBED WALLS  
31Muddy WatersIII 11
32Groove ArmadaIV 4 4
33Barrel ButtressIV 4 2
34Nid AreteIV 5 *3
35Temperance Union BluesIII *28
36PernilleIII 8
37AquafreshIV 4 *36
38White SharkIV 4 ***120
39Tinsel TownV 4 **10
40RemoraIII 4 1
41Gondola With The WindIV 5 *5
42ManeaterV 5 **10
43Hammerhead PillarVI 6 **4
44Tunnel Vision Left BranchIII 4 11
45Tunnel VisionIII *91
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
47Shelf RouteIII 1
48MorwindIII 4 ***101
49Turf WalkIII 4 *29
50Roaring FortiesIV 4 *15
51TyphoonIV 4 ***32
52Hurricane AreteVI 7 **3
53Alien AbductionVII 8 ***3
 TWINS AREA  
55Left TwinIII ***272
56Siamese TwinIV 4 31
57The SplitIV 4 **19
58Lickety SplitIV 5 **6
59Slick Mick's GrooveIV 5 * 
60Forgotten TwinII *140
61Siamese ButressII *15
62Right TwinII ***186
63The Lost BoysIV 5 2
64White HorsesV 6 1
65The SleverIII 4 1
66PepperpotIII 4  
67Golden PromiseVI 7 * 
68Muck n' BrassVI 6 * 
69Molar CanalIII 4
 NORTH BUTTRESS  
71Grooved AreteV 6 ***13
72Icicle GullyIII 4 *34
73Icicle Gully DirectIII 5 3
74Gentle Breeze FinishIV 4  
75Force Ten ButtressIII 4 *5
76Force Ten Buttress Direct FinishV 6 1
77Solar WindIV 4 *11
78Jet StreamIV 4 ***51
79Jet Stream Direct FinishIV 5 20
80Guides VariationIV 4  
81North Buttress RouteIII 7
82FoosyerneepsIV 5 **2
83Lemming RidgeI 7
 WEST FACE  
85Downhill GullyI 6
86Golden OldyII ***245
87Western RibIII ***99
88Easter GullyII *5
89Daim ButtressIII **30
90SolitaireII *11
91Unnamed Route - Aonach MorIII *1
92Nid RidgeI 7
 MOVED CLIMBS  
94Gendarme RidgeII 18
95Spare Rib GullyIII *7
96Western Rib (summer)3 **2
97Un-named icefallIII 4 1
98RuthII *2
99Unnamed gully/ribII 4
100Gully 2II/III 1
101Gully 3AII 1
102Unnamed (suggest Plan B)III 4 2
103Pro Libertate *V 6 **1
104The Prow *VIII 8 **1
105Perplexed *IV 4 2
106Silver Specious *I *1
107Random Rib *I/II *1
108Unnamed 3 *II/III 2
109Cave Gully *II *2
110Cor-nice day for it. *III 4 1
111Temperance Rib *II *3
112Left Hand Ridge *II  
113West Ridge *2 ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram

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