Carn Kenidjack (Kenidjack Cliffs)

Climbs 31 – Rocktype Killas slate – Altitude 35m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Amenable climbing at reasonable grades. The climbing feels exposed, yet is actually well-protected; the cruxes arrive with gear. Mostly single-, some multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Highly recommended: Saxon (HVS 4c 4c***), Rock Dancer (E1 5a ***) with its monodoigt crux, and Thane (E1 5b).

Access notes
Tidal in parts, mostly not.

Approach from Nancherrow/Tregeseal (SW 370 319) on the B3306 just north of St Just, at the base of the steep hill leading out of the road twds Botallack. Kenidjack Valley is seaward from the road junction at the bottom of the hill; a rough road runs for about 1mi along the N side of the valley. (It can be confusing - don't navigate into people's drives). Follow the road keeping generally L until it endds at quarries. The main cliff lies below these.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), West Cornwall & Supplement (2000),
Out of print: Bosigran and the North Coast (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1drag artistVS 4b 5
2SeadreamsHS 4b *21
3Little PlumVS 4b  
4NothinmegaVS 4b 1
5Gneiss GnomeHS 4b 94
6In The GalleryHVS 5a *53
7Saxon DirectHVS 5a ***74
8Rock DancerE1 5b **169
9SaxonHVS 4c, 4c ***312
10The ShieldE1 5a *36
11thaneE1 5b **69
12Fifty Year StormHVS 5c 1
13The StormbringerE3 5c *5
14Great CentralS 4a 11
15Scouse SlabVS 4b 3
16A Very Cross DresserVD 1
17Salmon SplitterVS 4c 5
18Super DirectE2 5b 10
19The Wooden BoxE2 5c 2
20MisdirectionS 4a 2
21D I BluesHVS 4c 2
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50m rope couldn't reach the bottom from large rounded boulder.
Joel Perkin - 26/Jul/14
Re. Ab from the boulder above the main wall - we managed fine with a sling and 50m rope (2 or 3m to spare) either the previous poster used the wrong boulder or had a shorter rope. The one we used is level with a rocky gearing up area and approx. half way between the main path and the cliff edge.
The Ivanator - 09/Jun/12
Loved the style of climbing at this crag - based on Saxon and Rock Dancer. In the Rockfax West Country guidebook an abseil from the a large rounded boulder above the main wall is described. I ran a sling round the boulder and a 50m rope didn't reach the bottom (approx 5-8m short). Had to set up another belay at the belay just above the main wall.
domskezz - 24/Sep/11