Amenable climbing at reasonable grades. The climbing feels exposed, yet is actually well-protected; the cruxes arrive with gear. Mostly single-, some multi-pitch routes up to 160ft. Highly recommended: Saxon (HVS 4c 4c***), Rock Dancer (E1 5a ***) with its monodoigt crux, and Thane (E1 5b).
Tidal in parts, mostly not.
Approach from Nancherrow/Tregeseal (SW 370 319) on the B3306 just north of St Just, at the base of the steep hill leading out of the road twds Botallack. Kenidjack Valley is seaward from the road junction at the bottom of the hill; a rough road runs for about 1mi along the N side of the valley. (It can be confusing - don't navigate into people's drives). Follow the road keeping generally L until it endds at quarries. The main cliff lies below these.
|1||drag artist||VS 4b||5|
|2||Seadreams||HS 4b *||22|
|3||Little Plum||VS 4b|
|5||Gneiss Gnome||HS 4a *||97|
|6||In The Gallery||HVS 5a *||57|
|7||Saxon Direct||HVS 5a ***||74|
|8||Rock Dancer||E1 5b ***||175|
|9||Saxon||HVS 5a ***||329|
|10||The Shield||E1 5a *||38|
|11||thane||E1 5b **||70|
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|50m rope couldn't reach the bottom from large rounded boulder.|
Joel Perkin - 26/Jul/14
|Re. Ab from the boulder above the main wall - we managed fine with a sling and 50m rope (2 or 3m to spare) either the previous poster used the wrong boulder or had a shorter rope. The one we used is level with a rocky gearing up area and approx. half way between the main path and the cliff edge.|
The Ivanator - 09/Jun/12
|Loved the style of climbing at this crag - based on Saxon and Rock Dancer. In the Rockfax West Country guidebook an abseil from the a large rounded boulder above the main wall is described. I ran a sling round the boulder and a 50m rope didn't reach the bottom (approx 5-8m short). Had to set up another belay at the belay just above the main wall.|
domskezz - 24/Sep/11