The Napes

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 650m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The Birthplace of British Rock Climbing. This excellent crag, altough rather broken, provides climbing of all grades in superb surroundings with its spendid ridges and steep walls over looking the upper Wasdale Valley and the Scafell Range.

The Napes is quite unique with its classic ridge climbs and the famous pinnacle of Napes Needle. Its relatively easy access and fine climbs has resulted in this being a popular stomping ground for the lower grade climber and beginner, but also provides some high quality testpieces. The majority of the crag is fast drying and holds the sun late into the day.

Although most of the climbs are on sound rock, care should be taken when on the ridges as any stonefall will rake the gullies and their walls, eventually crossing the busy path at the bottom.

Up to about 100m high on quick drying sunny rock. Many easier classics but the best routes are Eagles Nest (D), Arrowhead Ridge (VD), Needle Ridge (VD), Abbey Buttress (VD), Tophet Wall (HS), Eagles Nest Direct (MVS), Viking (E3), Tormentor (E4), Supernatural (E5), Incantations (E6).

Access notes
Starting from either Wasdale Head, Seathwaite or Borrowdale take the path to Sty Head Pass, and from its highest point follow the Climbers Traverse, a gently rising track that crosses the south-west flank of Great Gable. This path is rather vague at first, but soon becomes better defined and passes under Kern Knotts before continuing to the Napes.

The first large wall to be reached, across a wide scree chute called Great Hell Gate, is Tophet Wall, an impressively steep rockface. The next prominent feature is the characteristic shape of Napes Needle, which stands directly below the classic ridge climb of Needle Ridge. Beyond Needle Gully stands the imposing Eagles Nest Ridge and Abbey Buttress, which is immediately followed by Eagle Nests Gully and the final major ridge, Arrowhead Ridge. The track below the crag then continues to Sphinx Rock, a shapely detached block at the extreme left-hand end of the crag.

About one hour from Wasdale or under one and a half hours from Borrowdale.

Guidebooks
Lake District Rock (2003), Gable & Pillar (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 TOPHET WALL 
2Rainbow RidgeS 4a *
3Tophet RidgeVS 4b
4The Tartarus TripE1 5b
5Demon WallVS 5a *
6Sacrificial CrackE4 6a *
7Tophet WallHS 4a ***
8XanderE7 6b
9SupernaturalE5 6a ***
10IncantationsE6 6b ***
11Tophet GroovesHVS 5b *
12The Satanic TraversesE5 6a *
13The VikingsE3 5c **
14Golden calfE4 6b *
15Tophet BastionVD *
16Tophet GirdleVS 4c *
 THE NAPES RIDGES - EAST 
18Hell RaiserE2 5c *
19Lucifer CrackS 4a *
20Lucifer RidgeVD
21JagaVD
22ScrimshankerVS 4c
23Buzzard WallD
24Zeta ClimbVD
25Belfry ButtressHS 4b
26Belfry CrackVS 4b *
27Chantry ButtressS 3c
28Chantry Buttress DirectHVS
29Crumbs From A Rich Man's TableMVS 4b **
30Needle RidgeVD **
 THE NEEDLE 
32The Wasdale CrackHS 4b *
33The AreteHS 4b *
34Slingsby's VariationHS
35The Crowley RouteHS 4b *
36The Lingmell CrackHS 4b *
37The Obverse RouteHS 4b *
38Sick Heart RiverE2 **
39Thirty-nine StepsE3 **
40Sick'ard ShiverE6 6b **
41Direct Obverse from the GapHVS 5a
 THE NAPES RIDEGES - WEST 
43Amos MosesE1 5b *
44Crinkler's CrackHVS
45Alligator CrawlHS 4b
46Crocodile CrackHVS 5a *
47The CaymanE2 5b **
48Eagle's CrackVS 4c
49Centennial ClimbVS 4c *
50Eagle's Nest Ridge DirectMVS 4b **
51LongbowE1 5b **
52Long JohnHVS 5a *
53Eagle's Nest OrdinaryD **
54Little JohnS 4a
55Abbey ButtressVD **
56The Merry MonkVS 4b
57The TormentorE4 6a **
58Time and PlaceE2 5b
59Murin BuchstansangurE2 5c
60Westmorland RidgeVD
61Arrowhead Ridge DirectVD **
62Scimitar ridgeVD *
63The Climber's Traverse2 ***
64The Napes and Westmorland's Crag2 ***
65Eagles Nest Gully/Arrowhead Ridge2 *
66Sphinx Ridge2 *
67Sphinx Ridge (Winter)II *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 10/Dec/2014
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Keswick, CUMBRIA
Dedicated centre.
"Now Open! Ice Wall 12m Lead tower 8 - 10m multi-faceted walls with overhangs, slabs, verticals and archway Bouldering and training rooms - Coming Soon Indoor caving system 10 Wacky..."
kingkongclimbingcentre.co.uk