Climbs 26 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Mostly in the VDiff - VS range, very popular with novices and instructors. Notable climb is Dreamboat Annie, now (sensibly) downgraded from E1 5a to HVS. Some bouldering along the continuation of the strata that make up the crag.

Access notes
Tidal - base of routes covered at high tide.

Scramble down ledges on the RHS (E side) of Red Wall and traverse L; or abseil down.

Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Against the GrainVD
2Harbour CrackVD
3Glaze CrackHS 4b
4Porth-Clais CrackHS 4b
5Vegetable RightsVS 4c
6FriezeVS 4c
7Diagonal CrackS 4a *
8All Lines EngagedHS 4b
9Sea RiderVS 4c
10Dreamboat AnnieHVS 5a **
11InsetS 4a
12Ship of FoolsHS 4b
13Zawn ClimbHS 4b
14The AreteHS 4b
15Porth-Clais CornerD
16The CrackerVD
17MaroonedHVS 5a
18Red AdairS 4a
19Red WallS 4a **
20Red Wall Right-HandHS 4b
21Porth-Clais ChimneyD
22Slider S 4a *
23Low level traverse4a *
24Bear Crack VS 4b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt88

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
17-11-13 The loose rock bridge has now either been taken down or has fallen down as there is nothing but a sheer drop !!
bennevis - 18/Nov/13
Statement from BMC website: There is a very loose area of overhanging rock between the Grey Slab and Red Wall. The National Trust are currently (Sept. 2013) working on this to remove a hazard and this will affect access to several routes for a short time (see details on site). See info below from NT. "On 7th and 12 August steps were taken to remove a dangerous section of unstable rock near Grey and Red wall, to the east of the harbour entrance. There is still further work needed to completely remove the boulder ‘bridge’. Temporary signage on site diverts walkers around the affected area and also details climbing routes that are affected."
Matt88 - 07/Sep/13
Block isn't going to come from the wall anytime soon - just be aware of it.
Matt88 - 13/May/13
Just a heads up - theres a wobbly block in the all lines engaged/ sea rider area just above the diagonal crack, looks like a great hold till you grab it! doesn't look like it can be pulled off at the moment as i gave it a good shake - will have a closer look in two weeks and see
Matt88 - 24/Feb/13
Dreamboat Annie IS E1 5a
The Pylon King - 09/Sep/06
Nice location, can get busy but, worth a visit.
Phil - 11/Sep/02