Porth-Clais

Climbs 26 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features

Mostly in the VDiff - VS range, very popular with novices and instructors. Notable climb is Dreamboat Annie, now (sensibly) downgraded from E1 5a to HVS. Some bouldering along the continuation of the strata that make up the crag.

Approach notes

Tidal - base of routes covered at high tide.
Scramble down ledges on the RHS (E side) of Red Wall and traverse L; or abseil down.

Access notes

The rock bridge between 'Dreamboat Annie' and 'The Arete' has been removed by the National Trust.  This area has now stabilised although there is some loose rock just right of 'Inset'. Access to Grey slab is via a higher path behind the area wherethe rock was removed.  


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DREAMBOAT ANNIE  
2Against the GrainVD 62
3Harbour CrackVD *371
4Glaze CrackHS 4b *337
5Porth-Clais CrackHS 4b *574
6Vegetable RightsVS 4c *229
7FriezeVS 4c *309
8Diagonal CrackS 4a **538
9All Lines EngagedHS 4b *183
10Sea RiderVS 4c **350
11Dreamboat AnnieHVS 5a **493
12InsetS 4a *100
13Ship of FoolsHS 4b 17
14Zawn ClimbHS 4b 9
15The AreteHS 4b 78
16Porth-Clais CornerD 41
17The CrackerVD 46
18MaroonedHVS 5a 7
 RED WALL  
20Red AdairS 4a *270
21Red WallS 4a **981
22Red Wall Right-HandHS 4b *397
 OUTLYING  
24Porth-Clais ChimneyD 46
25Slider S 4a *2
26Low level traverse4a *2
27Bear Crack VS 4b 5
28Itchus Dickus Majoris *HVS 4c 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt88

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Statement from BMC website: There is a very loose area of overhanging rock between the Grey Slab and Red Wall. The National Trust are currently (Sept. 2013) working on this to remove a hazard and this will affect access to several routes for a short time (see details on site). See info below from NT. "On 7th and 12 August steps were taken to remove a dangerous section of unstable rock near Grey and Red wall, to the east of the harbour entrance. There is still further work needed to completely remove the boulder 'bridge'. Temporary signage on site diverts walkers around the affected area and also details climbing routes that are affected."
Matt88 - 24/Feb/15
17-11-13 The loose rock bridge has now either been taken down or has fallen down as there is nothing but a sheer drop !!
bennevis - 18/Nov/13
Block isn't going to come from the wall anytime soon - just be aware of it.
Matt88 - 13/May/13
Just a heads up - theres a wobbly block in the all lines engaged/ sea rider area just above the diagonal crack, looks like a great hold till you grab it! doesn't look like it can be pulled off at the moment as i gave it a good shake - will have a closer look in two weeks and see
Matt88 - 24/Feb/13
Dreamboat Annie IS E1 5a
The Pylon King - 09/Sep/06
Nice location, can get busy but, worth a visit.
Phil - 11/Sep/02