26 – Rocktype
Sandstone (hard) – Altitude
? – Faces
Mostly in the VDiff - VS range, very popular with novices and instructors. Notable climb is Dreamboat Annie, now (sensibly) downgraded from E1 5a to HVS. Some bouldering along the continuation of the strata that make up the crag.
Tidal - base of routes covered at high tide.
Scramble down ledges on the RHS (E side) of Red Wall and traverse L; or abseil down.
The rock bridge between 'Dreamboat Annie' and 'The Arete' has been removed by the National Trust. This area has now stabilised although there is some loose rock just right of 'Inset'. Access to Grey slab is via a higher path behind the area wherethe rock was removed.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt88
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|Statement from BMC website: There is a very loose area of overhanging rock between the Grey Slab and Red Wall. The National Trust are currently (Sept. 2013) working on this to remove a hazard and this will affect access to several routes for a short time (see details on site).
See info below from NT.
"On 7th and 12 August steps were taken to remove a dangerous section of unstable rock near Grey and Red wall, to the east of the harbour entrance. There is still further work needed to completely remove the boulder 'bridge'. Temporary signage on site diverts walkers around the affected area and also details climbing routes that are affected."|
Matt88 - 24/Feb/15
|17-11-13 The loose rock bridge has now either been taken down or has fallen down as there is nothing but a sheer drop !!|
bennevis - 18/Nov/13
|Block isn't going to come from the wall anytime soon - just be aware of it.|
Matt88 - 13/May/13
|Just a heads up - theres a wobbly block in the all lines engaged/ sea rider area just above the diagonal crack, looks like a great hold till you grab it! doesn't look like it can be pulled off at the moment as i gave it a good shake - will have a closer look in two weeks and see|
Matt88 - 24/Feb/13
|Dreamboat Annie IS E1 5a|
The Pylon King - 09/Sep/06
|Nice location, can get busy but, worth a visit.|
Phil - 11/Sep/02