Climbs 36
Rocktype Culm
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces N

Dave Noddings on Pressure Drop, Speke's Mill Mouth, Culm Coast © Adam Long

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Many routes protected by in-situ pegs - and nothing else. Not perhaps for the faint-hearted, but good news for adventurers, who will enjoy Berrlins (HVS 4b/c whose holds "resemble loosely packed playing cards and should not be shuffled"), Hotpoint (E1 5b) and Zanussi (E2 5c with just 4 pegs in 120 ft - and nothing else).

The whole of the S side of the main slab here has fallen away taking with it every route from Berlin on the left up as far as far as, but not including The Wager at the landward end. What's left is a blank slab covered in loose wafers of shale, which may in a few years clean up to provide extremely bold slab climbing.

Approach notes

From Lymebridge (SS 237 228), those who feel like starting the adventure with their car's underside can drive down a rough track. Else just park in the town and walk.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Spekes Mill Mouth 
2StreamlineE4 6a **1
3Sacred River
-
E3 6a/b  
4Red Tape
-
HVS 5b 4
5Cuchulain
-
VS 4c 3
6Finn McCool
-
VS 4b 1
7OddE5 6a  
8Pressure DropE3 5c ***133
9Ed
-
E5 6a **1
10Surface Tension
-
E5 6a * 
11Down to a Sunless Sea
-
E5 6a **6
 The North Side 
13 Front Loader
-
E3 5c * 
14 Zanussi
-
E2 5c *1
15 Hotpoint
-
E1 5b *2
16 Avoiding the Touch
-
HVS 5b 1
17Parallel Flow
-
E1 5b *7
18TetrapodE3 6a **10
19Both Ends Burning
-
E4 6b *2
20 Gabion
-
S  
21 The Flying Limpet
-
E3 6b 1
22Madam Sixtoes
-
E2 5c *10
23Penny for the Guy
-
E4 6a * 
24The Mighty Wurlitzer
-
E4 6b **1
25Archie Andrews
-
VS 4c 4
26Living with the Loonies
-
E4 6b  
 The South Side 
28The Red 0
-
VD 5
29Return of The NativeE1 5a  
30 Gangway
-
VD 3
31 BerlinE1 4c *3
32 Steam PowerE1 5a 2
33 MainsailHVS 4c **17
34Reefed MainsailHVS 4c  
35The Wager
-
HVS 5a 4
36Up the AnteE1 5b 2
37Something On Brownspear Piont
-
M 3a  
 Bay South of Browspear 
39Javelin
-
S  
40Duff Hunch
-
VD  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball