Climbs 35
Rocktype Culm

Faces S

Pete Finklaire? - Twilight ascent of 'Needle Direct', Screda Point, VS 4b © purple sue

Crag features

Some worthwhile routes up to 150ft - plenty of one-star E1s and E2s.

In situ stakes at top of crag currently in good condition. 8/10/2012

Approach notes

Tidal, accessible by boulder beach at low tide. High tide mark is visible as the Needle.

Park at Hartland Quay pub (SS 222 247) - toll payable in summer. On the S side of the bay are the sharks' teeth formations of Screda Pt.

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The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Javu website new routes

Out of print:
March 2014. Stakes still in reasonable state, although lots of movement in them. Some rust degradation in some.
jayjackson - 13/Mar/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1FizancleS 4a 2
2Pan PanHS 4b 10
3The Cleaver
4Micro Non Entity
E4 5c  
5Water off a Duck's Back
E1 5b  
6The Visit to the Quack Doctor
E5 6a * 
E6 6b **4
8Macho Duck
E3 5b 7
9Naughty Sneaky
E2 5b *4
E4 5c *18
11Half-lifeE3 5c **92
12Nose DecayE4 6a **62
13Lucky StreakE1 5b *44
14Lord Lucan is MissingE2 5c *57
15One in Every PortE1 5b **109
16Hobson's Choice
E2 5c 1
17Tourist TrapE1 5b **146
E1 5b 39
19Chien LunatiqueHVS 4c *136
E2 5b 2
21Cheap Little ScrubberE3 5b  
E3 5b  
23Reverie of Bone
E1 4c  
24MushlatskiE3 5b  
25SexyManda.comHS 4b 2
26FohnHS 4a *59
27The Snuffler
VS 4b 7
28Sea BreezeHS 4a *55
29Uphill RacerHS 4b 1
30Needle DirectVS 4b *40
31The Needle
VS 4b 12
32Give us a Break
VS 4c *1
33PanVS 4b 1
34HookD 1
35TinkerbellHVS 5a *1

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