Climbs 35
Rocktype Culm

Faces S

Pete Finklaire? - Twilight ascent of 'Needle Direct', Screda Point, VS 4b © purple sue

Crag features

Some worthwhile routes up to 150ft - plenty of one-star E1s and E2s.

In situ stakes at top of crag currently in good condition. 8/10/2012

Approach notes

Tidal, accessible by boulder beach at low tide. High tide mark is visible as the Needle.

Park at Hartland Quay pub (SS 222 247) - toll payable in summer. On the S side of the bay are the sharks' teeth formations of Screda Pt.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Javu website new routes

Out of print:
March 2014. Stakes still in reasonable state, although lots of movement in them. Some rust degradation in some.
jayjackson - 13/Mar/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1FizancleS 4a 2
2Pan PanHS 4b 10
3The Cleaver
-
M 1
4Micro Non Entity
-
E4 5c  
5Water off a Duck's Back
-
E1 5b  
6The Visit to the Quack Doctor
-
E5 6a * 
7Canard
-
E6 6b **4
8Macho Duck
-
E3 5b 7
9Naughty Sneaky
-
E2 5b *6
10Nirex
-
E4 5c *18
11Half-lifeE3 5c **93
12Nose DecayE4 6a **66
13Lucky StreakE1 5b *47
14Lord Lucan is MissingE2 5c *60
15One in Every PortE1 5b **113
16Hobson's Choice
-
E2 5c 1
17Tourist TrapE1 5b **151
18Sundare
-
E1 5b 40
19Chien LunatiqueHVS 4c *142
20Magnox
-
E2 5b 2
21Cheap Little ScrubberE3 5b  
22Diamondback
-
E3 5b  
23Reverie of Bone
-
E1 4c  
24MushlatskiE3 5b  
25SexyManda.comHS 4b 2
26FohnHS 4a *63
27The Snuffler
-
VS 4b 7
28Sea BreezeHS 4a *61
29Uphill RacerHS 4b 1
30Needle DirectVS 4b *44
31The Needle
-
VS 4b 12
32Give us a Break
-
VS 4c *1
33PanVS 4b 1
34HookD 1
35TinkerbellHVS 5a *1

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