Climbs 38
Rocktype Culm

Faces NW

power orbs dude! THE most delicate bridge to the finishing flake on the worlds smallest, smoothest slopers © mca

Crag features

Not a huge number of routes but what there are, are good: two Severes, an E2 and two E3s, all worth doing - particularly World's Weird Wall (E3 5c). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 250ft.

Plus then Great Slab, nothing easier than E5, including Creeping Flesh (E5 6a ***), Hellbound (E6 6b ***) and Smoothtalkin' (E5 6a/b **).

Approach notes

Tidal. Access via boulder beach, only up to half-tide.

Park at Hartland Pt and the S side of picturesque cove.

It is possible to ab in from in-situ stakes (placed 2003) for the Great Slab. This saves the struggle to get down again to the rucksacks and makes the routes virtually non - tidal.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Beach Slab 
E5 6a/b  
3En Famille
E2 5b  
4Two of Four
HVS 4c  
E2 5c * 
E1 6a  
 Beach Stack 
8Run To The Hills
VS 4b 2
9Long Road To RuinVS 4c 2
10SnuffelupagusVD 2
11Highway To HellVS 4b 2
12Kickstart My HeartVS 4b 2
13NightrainS 4b 2
E2 5b 1
E2 5b 1
16All Bottled Up
E5 6b  
17Shake and Stand Well
E3 6a * 
18I Was Looking at the Ceiling and Then I Saw the Sky
E2 5b  
19ErnieVS 4c 2
VS 4c 2
 The Whale 
22Psychosonic CindyD 2
23Lucy LasticM 2
 Surreallands Area 
25SurrealandsE1 5b 2
26PeardropE1 5b 1
27A Scream Edgeways
E5 5c  
 The Great Slab 
29Slave to the RhythmE5 6b **1
30Creeping FleshE5 6b ***15
31LowlifeE6 6a/b *1
32HellboundE6 6b ***3
33Smoothtalkin'E5 6a/b ** 
34Monkey gone to heavenE5 6a ** 
 The Junkyard 
36Scrapyard DemonS 4a 2
37Backyard BansheeHS 4a 2
38Junkyard AngelVS 4b/c 2
39Cosmik DebrisVD 2
40A Fist Full of HumbugsVD 2
 The Main Cliff 
42World's Weird Wall
E3 5b  
43Flight Path
E2 5a/b  
44Open Day
E3 6a * 
45Vaudeville Jazz Pooftah
E1 4c  

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