Smoothlands

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Not a huge number of routes but what there are, are good: two Severes, an E2 and two E3s, all worth doing - particularly World's Weird Wall (E3 5c). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 250ft.

Plus then Great Slab, nothing easier than E5, including Creeping Flesh (E5 6a ***), Hellbound (E6 6b ***) and Smoothtalkin' (E5 6a/b **).

Access notes
Tidal. Access via boulder beach, only up to half-tide.

Park at Hartland Pt and the S side of picturesque cove.

It is possible to ab in from in-situ stakes (placed 2003) for the Great Slab. This saves the struggle to get down again to the rucksacks and makes the routes virtually non - tidal.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 BEACH SLAB 
2Qui-3E5 6a/b
3En FamilleE2 5b
4Two of FourHVS 4c
5TitbitE2 5c *
6TitbiteE1 6a
 BEACH STACK 
8Run To The HillsVS 4b
9Long Road To RuinVS 4c
10SnuffelupagusVD
11Highway To HellVS 4b
12Kickstart My HeartVS 4b
13NightrainS 4b
14KermitE2 5b
15ElmoE2 5b
16All Bottled UpE5 6b
17Shake and Stand WellE3 6a *
18I Was Looking at the Ceiling and Then I Saw the SkyE2 5b
19ErnieVS 4c
20BertVS 4c
 THE WHALE 
22Psychosonic CindyD
23Lucy LasticM
 SURREALLANDS AREA 
25SurrealandsE1 5b
26PeardropE1 5b
27A Scream EdgewaysE5 5c
 THE GREAT SLAB 
29Slave to the RhythmE5 6b **
30Creeping FleshE5 6a ***
31LowlifeE6 6a/b *
32HellboundE6 6a/b ***
33Smoothtalkin'E5 6a/b **
34Monkey gone to heavenE5 6a **
 THE JUNKYARD 
36Scrapyard DemonS 4a
37Backyard BansheeHS 4a
38Junkyard AngelVS 4b/c
39Cosmik DebrisVD
40A Fist Full of HumbugsVD
 THE MAIN CLIFF 
42World's Weird WallE3 5b
43Flight PathE2 5a/b
44Open DayE3 6a *
45Vaudeville Jazz PooftahE1 4c
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

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