Climbs 38 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Not a huge number of routes but what there are, are good: two Severes, an E2 and two E3s, all worth doing - particularly World's Weird Wall (E3 5c). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 250ft.

Plus then Great Slab, nothing easier than E5, including Creeping Flesh (E5 6a ***), Hellbound (E6 6b ***) and Smoothtalkin' (E5 6a/b **).

Approach notes
Tidal. Access via boulder beach, only up to half-tide.

Park at Hartland Pt and the S side of picturesque cove.

It is possible to ab in from in-situ stakes (placed 2003) for the Great Slab. This saves the struggle to get down again to the rucksacks and makes the routes virtually non - tidal.

West Country Climbs (2010), North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Qui-3E5 6a/b  
3En FamilleE2 5b  
4Two of FourHVS 4c  
5TitbitE2 5c * 
6TitbiteE1 6a  
8Run To The HillsVS 4b 2
9Long Road To RuinVS 4c 2
10SnuffelupagusVD 2
11Highway To HellVS 4b 2
12Kickstart My HeartVS 4b 2
13NightrainS 4b 2
14KermitE2 5b 1
15ElmoE2 5b 1
16All Bottled UpE5 6b  
17Shake and Stand WellE3 6a * 
18I Was Looking at the Ceiling and Then I Saw the SkyE2 5b  
19ErnieVS 4c 2
20BertVS 4c 2
22Psychosonic CindyD 2
23Lucy LasticM 2
25SurrealandsE1 5b 2
26PeardropE1 5b 1
27A Scream EdgewaysE5 5c  
29Slave to the RhythmE5 6b ** 
30Creeping FleshE5 6b ***15
31LowlifeE6 6a/b *1
32HellboundE6 6b ***3
33Smoothtalkin'E5 6a/b ** 
34Monkey gone to heavenE5 6a ** 
36Scrapyard DemonS 4a 2
37Backyard BansheeHS 4a 2
38Junkyard AngelVS 4b/c 2
39Cosmik DebrisVD 2
40A Fist Full of HumbugsVD 2
42World's Weird WallE3 5b  
43Flight PathE2 5a/b  
44Open DayE3 6a * 
45Vaudeville Jazz PooftahE1 4c  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball

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